< Back Summer Sweetcorn: Midwest Magic Sweetcorn in the summer, fresh from the field, hot out of the pot. That is a potent memory for any kid lucky enough to grow up in the Midwest. For those of you that are thinking about recapturing some of those childhood memories, there is great news. Modern sweetcorn hybrids are available that make it easier to bring quality corn to the table. To get that delicious ear of memory, however, there are a few things you must do to assure success. Read this article to successfully grow your sweetcorn memories. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner First, it’s a good idea to get your soil tested. The University Extension can do that inexpensively ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ). Apply phosphorus and potassium as recommended by the test results. Corn grows best in well-drained, organic-rich soil at a pH around 5.8 to 7.0. The soil test can help getting the pH right. Working organic mulch and/or compost into the soil will also increase its richness. If you have any questions, you can contact the University Extension for help ( https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden/contacts-yard-and-garden ). When planting the seeds (kernels) you should sew at least four rows. To produce, the corn must either self or cross-pollinate with a similar variety. If the wind does not blow the pollen from stalk to stalk, blank spots will appear on the ears, where pollination failed. That’s why you want your cornstalks huddled together. Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60o. Plant the kernels about an inch deep 30 to 36 inches apart. It probably is best just to plant one variety of sweetcorn in a small garden. If different strains cross-pollinate the result is usually an ear with poorer flavor and texture. Once the seedlings sprout, you’ll want to keep up the watering. Drought can badly stress the developing ears and greatly reduce quality. About an inch of water a week usually does the trick. You will also want to start hoeing before the weeds get out of hand. When cultivating, use a shallow stroke just below the soil surface. Sweetcorn roots are shallower than field corn so you don’t want to get too vigorous and damage your plants. As the corn gets taller it will tend to shadow out the weeds and make your job easier. The most common corn insect pests are the European corn borer and the corn earworm. If you do find a caterpillar near the tip of the ear as you husk it, don’t be alarmed. They are common. Cut the affected part off and cook the rest. A lot of insect problems can be avoided by delaying planting until the soil has warmed to 60o (usually by mid-May) and using a variety that will mature in less than 80 days. You should harvest your corn when the kernels in the center of the ear are full and “milky” when squeezed. You should watch for this when the silks start to brown and dry. This usually happens about 18 to 24 days after they first appear. Of course, you’ll want to eat as much as you can while it is fresh, but once you‘ve had your fill there are several ways to preserve your harvest. Depending on the variety you can store the ears in the refrigerator for one to seven days before they lose their flavor. If you want to can the corn you must use a pressure canner. If you have the space, freezing is an excellent way to preserve sweetcorn. We have removed the kernels from the cob, boiled and bagged before freezing with great corn, months after August harvest. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Practical Pointers for Planning Your Garden The seed catalogs are here so spring must be around the corner! It’s time to turn the dreams of January into the plans for a new or renewed garden in your yard. Read this article to gain some practical pointers for planning your garden. Let’s get planning! Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s only February but you probably have already received some seed catalogs in the mail reminding us that spring will soon reappear. As we look longingly out our windows, it’s a great time to start thinking about a new or improved garden for your yard. A new garden can replace an existing garden, enlarge or re-shape an existing garden or carve out a completely new space in a neglected part of your property. When designing a new garden, there are some general design principles and other things you should consider. I am old school and prefer to do my thinking with a pencil and a large sheet of paper. It’s a good idea to sketch out the area you have in mind. Ask yourself some basic questions as you sketch. Topography Is the new garden area on a slope? If it is, will you need a retaining wall or terracing? For example, we designed a new garden along the east side of our yard. It has a gentle downhill slope. We wanted to add some contour to our flat front yard and create a visual barrier to block the view of the side of our neighbor’s house. We needed a retaining wall to add height and keep the garden on our side of the land. The wall ended up being 30 feet long and 4 feet wide on each end. It is 4 feet high and made from bricks and large boulders. We filled it with soil and made a small hill, with two depressions and an S shaped curve along the front side for visual variety. Light How much daylight does the area receive? Watch the area over several months and make note of any areas shaded by buildings or trees for more than 6 hours a day. An area that is in the shade for at least 6 hours a day will only support plants designed to grow in the shade. Sun loving plants need a minimum of 6 hours of full sunlight. If you are just starting this process in February, you will need to remember back to June, July, and August to determine the amount of sunlight your spot will receive during the summer. This can be very different than in the winter months due to the angle of the sun and day length. Specimen Plants Do you have any specimen plants in the area that you want to highlight (or plant new in the area)? How can you set it, or them, off? Some ideas are to highlight a specimen bush or tree with a contrasting color of mulch or a contrasting low growing ground cover. We wanted to highlight a weeping pussy willow, which has an interesting shape, but is basically green the entire growing season, so we planted purple Bugleweed around the base. The Bugleweed has tiny purple flower spikes during June, July and into August, so it looks like the Weeping Pussywillow is floating on a purple carpet. Color Palette What’s your color palette? When designing a garden that includes blooming flowers and shrubs, it’s pleasing to the eye to group similar colors together and to plant numerous plants of the same variety. This is called color block gardening and is effective if you have a large area to fill. For example, since our area is long and narrow, we planted one section with weigela which has burgundy leaves and pink flowers for most of the summer. Around one side of the weigela we planted Asian Lilies in a variety of pink hues. Beneath them and trailing down the small hill we planted a low growing creeping sedum which gets tiny pink flowers. This leads us to another design element you should consider. Plant Size Plant size. It is pleasing to the eye to have a variety of heights in your garden. You should use the Rule of Thirds. The plants at the back of your garden should be two-thirds taller than the plants in front of them. In the example given in number 4 above, the Weigela are taller than the Asian Lilies and they are both taller than the sedum. They are in the same color palette as the peonies. The creeping juniper softens the edge of the rock boarder and anchors the color palette with a dark green. A variegated willow with its very pale pink spring leaves is a light back drop at the edge of the garden. Much taller Smokebushes with their burgundy, green leaves are two-thirds taller than the Weigela. Another example from our garden is the row of Arborvitae along the back of the garden that will eventually grow taller than the Ninebark, Forsythia and Weigela that are planted in front of them. In front of those bushes, we have planted a variety of shorter flowers, grasses, and creeping ground covers. Soil Type It is important to look at your soil type. That will be hard to do in February, but when spring comes, it’s a good idea to send in a sample of the soil from your garden area to the University of Minnesota . They will send you back a soil test report that will let you know if you need to add any phosphorus or Potassium to your area. If you google “soil testing University of Minnesota” you will find directions for submitting a sample. Make a Sketch As we looked through all our gardening catalogs and downloaded plant information from various websites, it was easier to visualize our ideas if we cut out the physical pictures of the shrubs and flowers we were considering and taped them on to our paper lay out. We used a 1” = 1’ scale, to get an idea of the size. After taping the pictures on our layout, we sketched a circle around the plant to show the size of the full-grown plant. Be Flexible Flexibility is the last element of design. A flat piece of paper and photos do a good job of preparing you for the final garden look, but the contour of the land will also affect how things look. We ended up redesigning a couple of areas and moving plants around in the spring when planting began to get the look we were going for. Also keep in mind that the mature size of a plant is very different than the seedling you first get from the nursery. Your garden may not look as full as you want it to until the plants have had a couple of years to grow and settle in. Sensory Considerations A couple of other considerations: plant plants with a pleasing fragrance near your front door or other heavily trafficked area, so people can enjoy them. Don’t plant ‘unwelcoming’ plants near your front or side doors. Things with thorns, spikes, trailing branches, or pungent smells are better suited to other areas. Some tall grasses make lovely swishing sounds when the wind blows through them, consider using those near an outdoor seating area or near an entry way for auditory variety. There are many things to consider when planning a garden so enjoy the process. Choose one or two main goals or focus points (is this an edible garden or a cutting garden, or a garden to block an ugly view or a “native-plants-only” garden). Don’t let yourself get pulled off track by all the beautiful plants you see in the catalogs, online and at nurseries. Keep a narrow focus for the first year. You can always add more plants and move plants in the following years. That’s one of the fun things about gardening, plants are always changing and growing. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson

< Back Pumpkins that will “Melt” Your Heart Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern An Amazing Pumpkin Creation for all ages! Are you looking for a fun way to make a unique and stunning looking pumpkin for Fall, but would prefer not to carve one? We have a simple decorative pumpkin idea that takes only a pumpkin of any size, shape or color (faux or real), a handful of broken crayons, a permanent marker, tacky glue, a hairdryer and don’t forget the optional googly eyes. Read on to learn how to make this adorable pumpkin craft for Fall that will “Melt” your heart. Supplies Needed for (1) Pumpkin Creation: Pumpkin - faux or real - any size, any shape - any color (colors really stand out on white pumpkins) 1 bottle of glue (tacky glue is best) Crayon pieces - paper peeled off Surface Coverings as crayons splatter when heated Googly Eyes (optional - size appropriate for pumpkin) Permanent Markers (optional - if choose to draw face on the pumpkin) Hairdryer (to be used under adult supervision) Let’s Get Set: Prepare work surface by covering with cardboard, tablecloth or similar covering because crayons splatter as they melt. Choose the crayon colors randomly or choose crayons to form a pattern of colors. Unwrap all crayon pieces that you plan to use. Kids usually enjoy unwrapping the crayons. On the top of the pumpkin (near stem) place several drops or light strips of glue and then place the crayons you have chosen on the glue. Crayons should be facing up and down. Let the crayons set in place before beginning the melting process. The more crayons used will result in more of the pumpkin being covered. Optional: Choose googly eyes and glue onto the pumpkin or use the permanent marker to draw a face on the pumpkin before melting the crayons. Let’s Get Melting: (adult supervision is required) Once the crayons are set in the glue, you are ready to begin the melting process. Make sure that the pumpkin is set on a sturdy and covered surface Have an adult prepare the hairdryer. Depending on the age of the child, additional adult supervision will be needed or the adult may need to run the hairdryer Turn on the hairdryer and point the hairdryer toward the crayons. The crayons will slowly melt and run down the side of the pumpkin. Caution: crayons may splatter while melting Please remember to only run your hairdryer for a short time to let it cool down and do not touch the hairdryer because it will be hot. Additional crayons can be added to provide various dimensions on the pumpkin. Make sure to let your Pumpkin creation cool. (If you set it in the sun or in a bright area place it on a plate or cloth to prevent damage to any surface.) Enjoy your creation through the Fall Season. If you used a faux pumpkin, then you can carefully pack away your creation for next Fall. Photo Credit: platein28.com/fun-with-melting-crayons-on-pumpkins ( https://platein28.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Melted-crayon-pumpkin-1-1.jpg ) (1), rawpixel.com/search/crayons?page (creative commons) (2), pexels.com/photo/orange-pumpkin-on-hay-field (creative commons) (3), the idearoom.net/halloween-crafts-for-kids (4)

< Back Tea For Your Sipping Pleasure Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower. Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower . Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Photo Credit: www.gardensall.com roselle hibiscus flowers Agua (AH-wa or AUG-wa) de jamaica (hah-MY-kah) is a refreshingly tart iced tea that you may have tried either on a trip to Mexico or at your local Tex-Mex restaurant. Did You know that its lovely deep red color and delicious flavor comes from dried roselle hibiscus flowers? Though the roselle hibiscus originated in West Africa, it is commonly grown in Mexico, and South and Central America. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com roselle hibiscus plant bud This basic recipe for jamaica, taken from muydelish.com , is a very simple 3-ingredient infusion. Of course, anyone may have their own family recipe which they may share with you or not! Ingredients for the basic recipe are: 2 cups dried roselle hibiscus flowers (found at your local Latin store) 16 cups cold water 1 cup sugar, or to taste Bring 2 cups of dried jamaica flowers (also known as hibiscus and flor de Jamaica) and 8 cups of cold water to a soft boil for 5 minutes in a medium pot. Remove from heat. Add 1 cup sugar, or a sweetener variation below, and stir until dissolved. Add the remaining cups of cold water and steep for at least 2 hours or overnight. When steeping is complete, strain the flowers from the tea and pour tea into a large pitcher. (Yes, you may compost the spent jamaica!) Store in the refrigerator and pour over ice whenever the spirit hits you! Photo Credit: worldoffloweringplants.com roselle hibiscus tea on ice and warm, with tea leaves Variations during boiling include adding a cinnamon stick, a pinch of allspice or a little fresh ginger. Alternative sweeteners include piloncillo – a cone-shaped brown sugar, or agave syrup. You may add a mint sprig or some lime juice to your glass – delicious! References: muydelish.com https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hibiscus-sabdariffa/ https://www.epicgardening.com/roselle/ Photo Credits: Worldoffloweringplants.com (1), www.flickr.com (2), www.gardensall.com (3)

< Back Vexing Vole Damage Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the snow melts this spring, you may observe trails of dead grass in your yard. Or, you may find that the bark near the ground of your small trees or shrubs has been chewed bare. What is the cause of this damage that occurred over the winter? Most likely, the culprit is voles. Read this article learn more about voles and how you can reduce the damage they may bring to your yard. Voles or field mice are small brown rodents about the size and shape of a mouse. There are several species of vole. In Minnesota, the most common species are the meadow vole and the prairie vole. While voles don’t live long (2 – 16 months) they breed abundantly. One female vole can produce 3 – 5 babies, 5 – 10 times a year. They nest a few inches into the ground in small nests or tunnels. Voles generally eat grass and plant bulbs. They feed day and night throughout the year. Evidence of voles is a series of criss-crossing trails in the grass. You might also see patches of dried grass. This may be a storage area for food and nesting materials. Voles also make small holes in the grass to get to bulbs and tubers. Voles can damage or destroy trees and shrubs by gnawing and girdling of the plant. Of course, other animals, such as rabbits, also gnaw on plants in the winter. Vole girdling can be differentiated from girdling by other animals by the non-uniform gnaw marks. They occur at various angles and in irregular patches. Rabbit gnaw marks are larger and not distinct. Rabbits neatly clip branches with slanted, clean cuts. How can you prevent vole damage? You can’t entirely. Voles are so plentiful that you cannot eliminate them completely. However, there are some steps that you can take to reduce the threat. Remove woodpiles and debris that provide a hiding place Keep your grass trimmed short and your bushes trimmed up Remove birdfeeders or keep the ground around them very clean Loosely wrap your trees with a light-colored tree guard up to the top of the snow line It may be possible to trap voles using a standard mouse trap baited with peanut butter; but this only works on small populations It may be possible to use a toxic bait but this should be used only by certified pesticide applicators. Voles are a food source for many animals. However, this doesn’t control the vole population because they reproduce so rapidly. The good news is that voles rarely invade houses. And, while vole damage is annoying, it is generally not permanent. You can rake of the dead grass and reseed the damaged area. References: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage#pesticides-1901264 ; authored by Jennifer Menken, Bell Museum of Natural History http://pcwd.info/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/1994Voles.pdf ; authored by John M. O’Brien, Nevada Department of Agriculture Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 3 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the third in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about planting and lessons learned. (This is the third in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, planting and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Planting Day It’s finally time to plant! My plants are available to pick up on Friday, June 17, 2022. And you know what they say, about the best laid plans . . . I get my plants home and realize that a full 20% are not what I originally ordered! I knew that there was a possibility for substitutions when ordering kits but I wasn’t expecting this many. I do some quick research on the replacement plants and make some changes to the planting plan. As luck would have it, it’s going to be in the upper 80’s on Saturday and in the mid 90’s on Sunday. A great weekend to plant the 180 plants ordered - not really, but we will make it work. I’ve enlisted my brother and my sister-in-law to help install the pollinator garden on Saturday. Up until this point, the most beneficial tool in the pollinator garden had been the chainsaw I used to clear unwanted trees and shrubs. On planting day, the most beneficial tool is the drill auger attachment used to “dig” 180 planting holes. We finish planting a full hour earlier than anticipated and it looks great! Time to get some water on this new garden. Care for the new garden is pretty basic – water and weed. The new plants need an inch of water a week Ito help them get established. Removing weeds reduces competition for soil nutrients, water and sunlight. I was pleasantly surprised to see seven varieties of plants bloom their first season! And yes, I even saw some pollinators in the garden. Lessons Learned What I would do differently Plan for wildlife - I lost 8 plants, not a lot but enough Look for deer and rabbit resistant plants when purchasing plants and/or Protect new plants from wildlife Start planning earlier Identify the physical garden area earlier that way plants can be ordered before some sell out Manage my expectations, with the part sun/part shade conditions, my plants are healthy but growing slower than they would in full sun What I would do again Plant a pollinator garden Order plant kits for a first-time pollinator garden Work with the Lawns to Legumes program or consider a similar program Recruit or accept offers to help plant the garden Use the chainsaw and drill auger attachment First time events for 2023 Clean up the pollinator garden in the spring - leaving the garden standing protects any overwintering pollinators Leave beds of leaves, twigs and other “messy” areas near the pollinator garden to encourage pollinators to both overwinter and make their homes near this food source Evaluate how plants are doing in their current location, move plants that are struggling Replace plants that have died or were damaged Select replacement plants on my own vs. using a plant kit Calling all pollinators! The garden should be bigger and better than last year. Photo Credit: Brenda Scheer (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Using the Last Frozen Vegetables to make Tasty Tacos and Springtime Cake Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s May, you may have a few things peeking up in your garden, or maybe you’re like me and nothing is up yet, and nothing is ready for picking. I’m still living off of veggies that I canned, froze or dried last fall. Here is a crowd-pleasing recipe that makes use of my canned tomatoes, frozen corn and ground venison. You can use ground beef or ground turkey too. It also has corn chips on it, and those are a favorite! It’s very easy to freeze fresh tomatoes. Just pull off any stem, wash and put into freezer baggies and put in the freezer. When you’re ready to use them, take them out of the bag and run them under hot water, the skins will peel right off by rubbing them with your thumbs. Cut out the stem spot and chop for your recipe. You’ll have that wonderful garden fresh tomato taste. Corn Bread Taco Casserole Ingredients 2 pounds ground venison, beef or turkey 2 envelopes taco seasoning 2 cups diced canned tomatoes, drained 1 cup water 1 cup cooked rice 1 can (4 ounces) chopped green chiles 2 packages (8-1/2 ounces each) cornbread/muffin mix 1 cup whole kernel corn 1 cup sour cream 2 cups corn chips 2 cups shredded Mexican cheese blend or cheddar cheese, divided 1 can (2-1/4 ounces) sliced ripe olives, drained Topping: Shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes and chopped red onion Directions Preheat oven to 400°. In a frying pan oven, cook venison over medium heat until no longer pink, 8-10 minutes, breaking it into crumbles; drain. Stir in taco seasoning. Add tomatoes, water, rice and green chiles; heat through, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, prepare cornbread mix according to package directions; stir in corn. Pour half the batter into a greased 13x9-in. baking dish. Layer with half the meat mixture, all the sour cream, half the corn chips and 1 cup cheese. Top with remaining batter, remaining meat mixture and olives. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is cooked through, 55-60 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup corn chips and 1 cup cheese; bake until cheese is melted, 3-5 minutes longer. If desired, serve with lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. Char’s Springtime Cake Some of you may have rhubarb peeking up, but due to our very cold early spring, I doubt it’s ready to pick. I had one package of rhubarb left from last fall in my freezer. I pick the last of my rhubarb in the fall just before it frosts and I wash, cut it into small pieces, put it in a freezer container and freeze it until early spring, like now, when I’m dying for a fresh spring taste of something from the garden. This recipe was adapted from one handed down to me from my wonderful step-mom who passed away last August, from COVID. Hers calls for all rhubarb, but since I didn’t have that much in the freezer, I substituted frozen strawberries and blueberries for part of the rhubarb. This was taste tested by family and friends and determined to be a wonderful taste of spring and summer! Directions Blend: 1 c. flour ½ c. butter 5T. powdered sugar Mix and press into a 13x9 pan. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden at 350 degrees. Mix: 3 eggs 2 ½ c. flour ¼ tsp salt ¾ tsp baking powder Add: 1 ½ cups rhubarb cut into small chunks 1 ½ cups sliced strawberries 1 ½ cups blueberries Pour over crust and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake 40 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with powdered sugar while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Vegetables of Asian Origin That Thrive in Minnesota Community gardeners are increasingly interested in expanding their growing practices to include crops that originated in cultures other than their own. As Minnesotans, we have some options for growing vegetables that can be used in global cuisines and also promote sustainability. This article highlights three vegetables that originated in Asia, but with the right conditions and care, can also be grown in Minnesota. Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The vegetables featured here originated in East Asia, a region that includes parts of Korea, China, and Japan. These vegetables have long been staple crops in traditional gardening environments and can adapt well to Minnesota's climate. With seasonal timing planned and soil conditions prepared in advance, we can grow these vegetables successfully. Growing them offers Minnesota gardeners an opportunity to honor global food heritage while diversifying our gardens and diets. Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) These leafy plants have been cultivated in China for thousands of years and are foundational to East Asian cuisines. Bok choy grows in an upright clump of dark green leaves, with very thick green or white stalks.1 They are versatile in the kitchen; commonly used in stir fries, soups and fermented preparations like kimchi. They can also be used as fillings for dishes such as egg rolls and dumplings. A great ingredient for homemade sauerkraut,2 Bok choy is packed with calcium and vitamins A and C, making it a nutrient-rich addition to the garden. Growing Considerations : As a cool-season vegetable, this plant is well-suited to Minnesota’s spring and fall growing seasons. Seeds can be started indoors or direct-sown in early spring. A second planting in late summer often performs better due to fewer pest issues but plant no later than late July. Soil & Care : They prefer fertile moist soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. They can benefit from row covers that can protect against common pests. Harvesting : Bok choy matures in 30 to 45 days. You can harvest Bok Choy a few leaves at a time instead of waiting for the full head to develop. Bok Choy Japanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus var. japonicus) This Japanese-originating cucumber is great for both pickling and eating fresh. While this is a warm weather crop, its growing conditions are not too dissimilar from common variety cucumbers! In Japan, these cucumbers are often thinly sliced and served with vinegar, sesame, or miso-based dressings. Planting Tips : Start seeds indoors in late April or sow directly outdoors in late May, after all danger of frost has passed.3, 4 Growing Conditions : Growing with a trellis is optimal as this provides support for vertical growth and encourages airflow. Make sure to water regularly to avoid bitter fruit! Harvest : Pick when 8 to 10 inches long for best flavor and texture. Frequent harvesting over the growing season will encourage continual production. Japanese Cucumber Shishito Pepper (Capsicum annuum) The shishito pepper is a wrinkly small pepper from Japan known for its subtle flavor. These peppers are commonly blistered in oil and sprinkled with sea salt, which brings out their sweet grassy flavor. Its ‘easy to cook’ nature and taste have made it a popular snack food throughout the U.S.! Gardening instructions for more familiar peppers can be followed for this variety as well!5 Starting Indoors : Like most peppers, shishito should be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost and transplanted outdoors once night time temperatures stay consistently above 55°F.6 Soil & Sunlight : Requires full sun and well-draining soil. Make sure to utilize a balanced fertilizer (if necessary) to ensure continual fruit production during the growing season. Harvest Time : Pick when the peppers are about 3 to 4 inches long and still green. They can be harvested throughout the season. Shishito Pepper These Asian originating vegetables demonstrate that with just a little planning and care, we can grow our gardens to help expand our diets and try new things. Incorporating one or any of these options into your growing space not only broadens your culinary possibilities, but also introduces you to agricultural traditions that have been around for centuries, from all over the globe. While these crops are not indigenous to Minnesota, they perform well in our short growing seasons. Look for heirloom or traditional varieties from seed catalogs specializing in global crops, such as Kitazawa Seed Company , Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds , or Seed Savers Exchange . Remember: As gardeners, we don’t have to go very far to explore the world. References : https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-chinese-cabbage-and-bok-choy#harvest-and-storage-790562 https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/how-make-your-own-sauerkraut https://greg.app/when-to-plant-japanese-cucumber/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cucumbers#insects-3252210 https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-peppers#disorders-3281462 https://www.gardenary.com/blog/how-to-grow-shishito-peppers Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,3)

< Back Have a Sunny Garden? Try These Perennials Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener Do you have an area of your garden that receives 6 to 8 hours of sun each day? If so, you will want to plant “sun perennials” in that space. Perennials that prefer a sunny location should thrive in your yard, assuming, of course, that you provide them with healthy soil, ample water, and some tender loving care. Read this article for profiles of “sun perennials” for every season between the frost dates. Calling all sun worshipers! Since I have a north facing house position, my front yard is mostly shady. Most of the plant color in my yard is found in the back yard, where the southern light creates the perfect environment for my sun-seeking perennials to blossom. In this article I will feature my top 3 full-sun-perennials for each season, that will ensure a constant show of color in your garden from last to first frost. The plants featured below perform best in full sun, which is defined as 6+ hours of direct sunlight a day. Spring These early bloomers pop up in our gardens as winter gives way to spring, seeking out the sun that has already begun to warm the soil. Yarrow This is the most eager plant in my garden and the fern-like leaves are already pushing through the soil. I especially love this hard-working plant for its ability to choke out weeds which it succeeded in doing last year in a problem area of my garden. The plant comes in a variety of colors and heights that are sure to suit any color scheme or garden size. It is important to note, however, that it can be aggressive so plan carefully. Bloom Duration : early spring to late fall. Fernleaf Yarrow Creeping Phlox My rock wall signals the first colors of spring as the matted green leaves appear, giving way to bright, florescent shades of pink, purple, and white flowers. This is a great ground cover and can be tucked in between rocks in an alpine garden. You can get a second bloom later in the growing season by deadheading any spent blooms. Bloom duration : 3-4 weeks Salvia Perennial Salvia is a great addition to the garden if you want to support our early pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Salvia is a drought tolerant choice that holds steady through our dry spells. It needs at least 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. Depending on the variety, this plant can range in size from 1’ to 5’, giving you multiple options for garden placement. To encourage multiple bloom cycles, trim off the spent flowers, or if it is under blooming, you can cut the plant back mid-summer to encourage more blooms. Bloom duration : 6-8 weeks in spring and then after a haircut, into late summer/fall. Summer By the time summer rolls around, the heat is reaching new heights and as we have seen in the past few years, rolling drought puts a lot of strain on our plants. Luckily, these sun-loving perennials are built to withstand some weather-related strain. Common Milkweed Beautiful and fragrant purple/pink poms top off THE host plant for the Monarch butterfly. Even planting one milkweed plant in your yard will help support future generations of this at-risk butterfly. Once hatched, the young caterpillars will feast on the leaves so be cautious using chemicals around this plant. Common Milkweed is best placed in the center or the back of your garden due to its height, which averages around 3’-5.’ The seeds pods should be collected at the end of the season to prevent reseeding. Bloom duration : June – September. Hardy Geranium - G. Rozanne If you are looking for a sprawling, prolific bloomer, this is your plant. The violet-blue petals persist through the heat of summer and into fall, attracting bees and hummingbirds. This low maintenance plant really pulls its weight in the garden, but if it starts to lag, you can prune it back mid-season to rejuvenate it. Stunning along a border, or in the garden where you can create a cascading effect. Blooming Duration : Early Summer – Late fall. Coneflower (Echinacea) A garden staple, the coneflower supports pollinators in spring and summer, and provides seeds to songbirds (like Goldfinch) throughout the fall and winter months. When choosing a coneflower, opt for a less showy bloom with a single blossom to attract more pollinators. Think of the center of the flower as a landing pad. If it is obstructed by a complex petal structure, pollinators may find the flower less attractive and move on in search of flowers easier to access. To ensure a long bloom season, deadhead the spent flowers to promote a second flush of blooms. Blooming Duration : July – September. Autumn Cooler temperatures are followed by fading flowers and the promise of garden cleanup before the snow flies. Luckily, the color show does not have to end. These plants will round out the year with their warm, vivid colors. Aster Aside from its striking color amid a dulling floral background, this plant plays a critical role in continuing the nourishment of late season pollinators. Great for filling out a space in the garden that is abundant in spring and summer bloomers, to keep the color rolling into fall. You can cut these down to the ground once the first frost arrives or wait until spring to allow birds to enjoy the seeds through winter. Blooming Duration : August – October Sedum As a member of the stonecrop family, Autumn Joy Sedum is unique. The taller varieties, which can grow up to 24”, have large succulent leaves and tight clusters of flowers that deepen to rose or salmon as the temperatures cool in the fall. This variety is perfect in a garden where spring and summer blooming flowers have faded. Creeping sedum is used as a ground cover and is well suited for rocky landscapes with dry soil conditions where it is harder to grow other types of plants. Blooming Duration : Late summer into fall. Autumn Joy Stonecrop Hardy Mums A true sign of fall, this beautiful plant comes in a multitude of colors and is prized for its late season blooms. It is important to note that there are two distinct types of mums: the “hardy mum” and the “florist mum.” “Florist mums” are typically found at the end of the season at grocery or hardware stores. They are not adapted to our winters and are mainly a short-lived decorative plant. A “hardy mum” may need to be sourced out of a catalogue or special ordered from your nursery and should be planted in the spring to encourage root establishment through the year. Once established, you will be rewarded with a reliable display of color into fall each year. Bloom Duration : Late summer – Late fall. It is important to remember that while there are many plants that are versatile in their light requirements, with the ability to exist in a range of sun exposures, plants do have a best sun exposure which should be adhered to as much as possible to ensure that your plant is in a space where it can reach its full potential. These sun perennials need full sun to perform their best and to delight you year after year. Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Mike Myers, Flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), Stockbridge School of Agriculture ( UMass.edu ) (4), Penn State Extension; extension.psu.edu (5), Horticulture and Home Pest News; iastate.edu (6), UW Arboretum ( wisc.edu ) (7), PNW Plants ( wsu.edu ) (8), Illinois Extension (UIUC) (9)

< Back Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Unless you live in New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, or Hawaii, you are probably familiar with creeping charlie. According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources , it was brought to the United States as far back as 1672 from Europe to be used both as a source of food and for medicinal reasons. Before the widespread use of hops for making beer, creeping charlie was commonly used for that purpose, thus you may hear it referred to as “ale ivy” among other names, including “ground ivy” or “catsfoot.” A quick internet search will provide an abundance of websites claiming creeping charlie provides relief from a number of ailments from ringing in the ears to constipation to colic to bronchitis, and the list goes on and on. The internet, however, is lacking scientific research to support those claims. One thing that is certain is that creeping charlie is in the mint family. Being in the mint family, some fans of creeping charlie enjoy making tea from its leaves, or using them in salads, or cooking them similar to how spinach is prepared. Rather than harvesting creeping charlie for its flavor profile, it is much more likely that you are not fond of the plant and spend an enormous amount of time and energy trying to eradicate it from your lawn or garden. There are a number of reasons creeping charlie is not welcome in a lawn or garden setting. Like the University of Minnesota Extension tells us, creeping charlie spreads or creeps across the top of the ground via surface roots or runners, called stolons, creating a dense carpet. The University of Michigan tells us that, similar to the runners above ground, creeping charlie has a rhizome root system that spreads horizontally below the ground. It can also spread by seed and even by small scraps of plant material dropped on the ground or left in the soil. It is a master at taking over areas where other plants are unsuccessful, like shady, moist areas, or where soil is compacted and only weeds tend to grow. Once established, it is very adaptable and has no problem creeping its way into sunny locations as well. It crowds out grasses and other desirable native plants. In order to get creeping charlie back under control, it is important to recognize the plant in your yard. According to the University of Michigan , this herbaceous perennial can be recognized by its square-shaped stems, scalloped opposite leaves, and bilaterally symmetric purple flowers that bloom from April to June. You may notice the dense carpet of the leaves that the University of Illinois describes as somewhat kidney-shaped with rounded, toothed margins. Before discussing how to get rid of creeping charlie, it is important to look at cultural control methods for how to prevent it from taking over in the first place; or at least how to create an environment that is not as conducive for its growth. One thing a gardener can do to prevent a creeping charlie takeover is to plant a shade tolerant grass in shady areas instead of a sun-loving Kentucky bluegrass, for example. The University of Wisconsin alternatively recommends foregoing grass in difficult shaded areas and instead planting other shade-loving plants like hostas, pachysandra, or vinca. Once alternative plants are established, newly introduced creeping charlie would have a more difficult time competing. Another cultural method to prevent or hinder the spread of creeping Charlie, would be to alter the growing conditions. Improving drainage or watering less makes the area less desirable for creeping charlie. The University of Minnesota also suggests reducing the amount of shade by trimming shrubs or pruning trees. Mechanical methods of getting rid of creeping charlie include hand-pulling the plants. The University of Michigan reminds us that it will take diligence and patience to remove all of the plants. The most important thing to remember about this method is to get rid of every piece of the plant. Since any little piece left behind can sprout a new plant, it may take multiple seasons to clear out an area. With that in mind, mowing an area of creeping charlie can cause it to spread if the plant is mowed and the clippings are left behind. Remember to bag clippings when mowing an area that is infested with the plant. The Minnesota DNR also recommends setting the mower at a taller setting and fertilizing less to help choke out the creeping charlie. Physical barriers, like edging, are not very effective in stopping the spread of creeping charlie. The stolons above ground and rhizomes below ground are very adept at finding their way over, under, or around barriers. However, if there is an area where you have decided to let creeping charlie live in your yard, a physical barrier will at least slow the spread as long as you are diligent about keeping it contained and removing any plants that make it past the barrier. If none of the previous methods are reasonable or successful in your situation, it is time to consider herbicides, though, as the DNR states, herbicide control is challenging because creeping charlie can reestablish quickly after post-emergence treatment. The University of Minnesota makes the point that the timing of herbicide application makes a difference in its effectiveness. They recommend fall as the best time to apply it when the plant is taking up nutrients from the soil in order to survive winter. Purdue University adds that in the fall a very careful spot application is less likely to affect surrounding garden plants than in the spring when they are more actively growing. The next choice is spring when creeping charlie is actively growing if there are no surrounding plants or if they are shielded from the herbicide. The most effective herbicide against creeping charlie will contain the ingredient triclopyr. Also mentioned are 2,4-D and Dicamba. These are all selective broadleaf herbicides. This means that if you are treating creeping charlie in your lawn rather than in a garden, you do not need to worry about killing your lawn grasses as it will only kill the creeping charlie. Two - three applications per year should be sufficient to keep it under control if instructions are carefully followed, though the University of Wisconsin warns against applying Dicamba more than twice per year. In the past, gardeners touted the use of Borax to treat creeping charlie. Research at the University of Wisconsin and Iowa State University have proven that it should not be used as broadleaf weed control against creeping charlie or any other weeds. It was found that even in small amounts, it is bad for the soil, providing an unfavorable growing environment for desirable plants. If you have a large area where creeping charlie has completely taken over, you may want to consider one of these solutions. One method recommended by staff at the University of Michigan is called sheet composting, or lasagna composting. Layers of organic material are placed upon newspaper or cardboard to smother the creeping charlie and give you a fresh start. In a sunny location, the University of Minnesota recommends another natural method called solarization, where a sheet of plastic over the infested area for several months raises the temperature so that the creeping charlie can no longer survive. If you prefer a chemical alternative, the University of Minnesota suggests that if your lawn is at least 50% creeping charlie, you may want to apply a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like Round-Up. It will kill all the vegetation. As with all chemicals, be sure to carefully follow the instructions to safely apply it and to see when it is safe for people and pets to enter the area and when you can re-seed the area. Everyone’s situation is different, so it is important to consider all the different options for ridding your lawn and garden of creeping charlie. Everyone’s tolerance level is different, so one last thing to consider, but definitely not the least, is whether or not you can live with creeping charlie. Keeping our neighbors happy and controlling invasive weeds from spreading across the property line is important, but perhaps you have an area in your yard where you can allow creeping charlie to co-exist with you. It does provide a small benefit to pollinators, and the carpet of delicate purple flowers in the spring is a beautiful sight. Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota (2, 5)

< Back Garden Alchemy Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes for good gardening itself? Garden Alchemy by Stephanie Rose (of Garden Therapy) brings us recipes for all kinds of DIY gardening - from soil & fertilizer to propagation and natural pest management. Read on for a review of this great guide, including 80 “recipes and concoctions!” Stephanie Rose Reviewed by Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Garden Alchemy covers a wide range of natural solutions for indoor and outdoor gardening. Free plants by propagating root cuttings? Yes, please - see page 49! Houseplant tea, anyone? How about a great primer on worm food and compost? Minnesota gardeners can certainly appreciate natural pest management to bring in the birds, bees and bugs we want while deterring the pests we could do without (see page 112 for fungus gnat sand or page 119 for trapping stink bugs!) This book is a fun read - learn about the time the author offered to host plants for a charitable organization in her sunny front yard and ended up with 300 unmarked plants arriving all at once. It’s also a great growing guide to keep on hand. The solutions are based on natural science and documented experimentation of learning through plants. Ms. Rose begins with a discussion of soils and mulches - including how to test the chemistry and structure. She offers many recipes, written in cookbook form, for mixing and amending the soil based on the growing needs. The ingredients are mostly simple and found at home or a local garden center. The same is true of the natural fertilizer concoctions she offers later in the book. There are several fun activities for gardeners of all ages - think seed strips, diy pots, and bird feeders. Many can be completed in a short afternoon. The pictures are beautiful and add to the clear instructions throughout. “It’s getting your hands dirty that will give you the definitive answer how best to grow plants in your unique garden.” As Master Gardeners, we do our best to answer garden questions with science-based advice. Sometimes (often?) the answer is “it depends.” Truth be told, there are a lot of variables that go into gardening. This book makes it fun to learn about our gardening space and experiment with growing solutions. Educated trial and error, with a good dose of patience, are unavoidable parts of the process to, as the author says, “work to build on the foundation Mother Nature has created.” The Canadian author, Stephanie Rose, also has a great website full of advice that works for northern gardeners - gardentherapy.ca I encourage you to check out both the book and the website for great information! Your garden will thank you. Photo Credit: Book Jacket (1)

< Back Mindfulness in the Garden with Kids Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Winter is a lovely time to experience and appreciate nature. The muted colors and slower gardening pace allow us the opportunity to take in and observe our natural environment more closely. Observing nature in winter with the children in your life enhances the experience. Watch your children, not only learn, but interact joyfully with the peaceful winter world around them. Read this article for tips about how to experience mindfulness in our natural spaces with children. We have heard about the mental and physical benefits of time spent in nature. Winter is a time when many of the colors of the warmer seasons are muted, and there is a hush as snow covers the garden and landscape. Mindfulness speaks to an intentional approach to experiencing our natural spaces - both outdoors and inside. We can do this in all seasons, but winter is a great time to slow down and focus before the explosion of sensory stimuli we anxiously await in spring. DO Here are five ways to practice mindfulness in the garden with kids. 1. Get up close to different textures and take some time to really look. Ask your child partner what they see once the leaves have fallen and we can find the contrasts between the bark, stems, and other organic materials against the snow on the ground. 2. Continue on a walk to visit dormant perennials and bulbs you may have planted last summer and fall. Ask your child partner what they think is going on with the plants underground. 3. Calmly look around your garden. Do you see or hear signs of the creatures that spend the winter there, such as nests or tracks in the snow? What do you think it feels like for those creatures in their winter homes? 4. Find a quiet place to sit - on the ground or on a garden bench perhaps. Close your eyes and listen to the garden while taking some slow breaths in - counting 1, 2, 3 - and out - 1, 2, 3. Do this a few more times before continuing your mindful garden walk. 5. Color awareness: take some time to observe colors in your winter garden - maybe some red branches of a dogwood, or brown leaves, or even some faded yellow flowers. Can you see why some plants and trees are called evergreens? How do you feel when you look at the plants around you? Winter weather making it difficult to get outside? We can practice mindfulness in our indoor gardens too. Take a slow tour of house plants, and pause to breathe deeply at each one. Ask your child partner for their observations of color, shape, or even what they would call the plant Plant a few seeds in a pot or tray and place in a warm, bright spot. Make a practice of visiting the seeds and any sprouts, and just taking time to observe what you see. Take some cuttings of plants - such as Trandescantia - and place in a clear glass or vase of water. Pay attention to any roots that grow and ask the child how this helps the plant. Most importantly, mindfulness in our gardens and other natural spaces allows our children of all ages to slow down and practice awareness in a busy world. It’s okay if they find treasures or want to make a drawing along the way, but the focus is on the present - a good skill for gardeners of all ages! READ And here are some books to read with your child gardener: Sing a Season Song , written by Jane Yolen and illustrated by Lisel Jane Ashlock At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=sing+a+season+song On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sing-Season-Song-Jane-Yolen/dp/1568462557/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14CIL143WDVQ9&keywords=sing+a+season+song&qid=1640814878&s=books&sprefix=sing+a+season+song%2Cstripbooks%2C152&sr=1-2 If I Were a Tree , written by Andrea Zimmerman and illustrated by Jing Jing Tsong At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=If+I+were+a+tree On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/If-Were-Tree-Andrea-Zimmerman/dp/1620148013/ref=sr_1_1?crid=RITY8K7B18WU&keywords=if+i+were+a+tree&qid=1640814994&s=books&sprefix=if+i+were+a+tree%2Cstripbooks%2C101&sr=1-1 (Making Tracks) Park by Cocoretto (Board Book) At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?qu=park+cocoretto&te=&lm=NONDIGITAL On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Making-Tracks-Cocoretto/dp/1786282933/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ANJRGNFUF6L8&keywords=park+cocoretto&qid=1640815429&s=books&sprefix=park+cocoretto%2Cstripbooks%2C93&sr=1-1 Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke