< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back The Short-lived Beauty of Blooming Cactus Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Various cacti can provide gardening pleasure in Minnesota both outside in the summer and inside during the cold weather. There are thousands of varieties of cacti, many of which are different and exotic, in other words, pretty cool. But there are some tricks to growing cacti successfully. Here are some tips on growing healthy cacti and getting them to re-bloom. A long time ago, I thought growing cactus would be a piece of cake. Just set the little cactus I’d picked up at Home Depot on the window sill, ignore it for six months and then give it a little water. I thought I would be extravagantly rewarded for all my effort. NOT! Within a month the cactus had shriveled up and died. I did some research, mostly to convince myself that it really wasn’t all my fault it had died, but I found out it was. Short and sweet, here is what I’ve learned about growing cactus over the years. First, they need a growing medium that is 60% sand/small gravel and 40% cactus potting soil. Second, it is best to grow them in a traditional, non-glazed clay pot with a clay saucer underneath the hole in the bottom of the pot. This allows them to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Third, they should be watered once a week, not flooded, but enough to get the soil thoroughly wet. Don’t water them if they are not all the way dry. Fourth, they need light. In the winter my cacti (all 52 of them) are in my house in front of south and west facing windows. They go semi dormant in the cool basement and only need ¼ cup of water every two weeks. This allows them to rest. In the spring, I bring them upstairs, where there is more light, and give them a little cactus fertilizer (half the recommended dose) with every other watering. When outdoor day time temperatures are above 65 degrees and all chance of frost is past, I move them all outdoors. If possible, a week in a shaded area is a good transition before placing them in full sun. Because I have so many, they don’t all get treated to shade before being placed in the full sun, I simply don’t have the space. A few have gotten sunburned spots on them, but all have survived. It doesn’t matter if they get poured on by a summer thunderstorm. They seem to love the extra moisture, as long as they are in pots that drain and can dry out. I occasionally fertilize them during the summer, but not too often. It’s important to place them out of harm’s way, where they won’t get blown over, or bumped by passersby. In June and July, you may be rewarded by these stunning blooms. They only last 24 hours, but they are simply breath taking. This year, we had one cactus that bloomed in both June and July (usually they only bloom once a year). Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus also enjoy being outside in the summertime. Make sure they aren’t in full sun, they definitely like it a little shady. We have one large cactus that I call a dragon’s head cactus because it’s flowers really look like a dragon head with its mouth wide open. Every summer I’ve put it outside, it gets tiny brown spots all over it. I bring it in before the first frost and it rewards me with blooms in January. The brown spots fade once it’s been in the house for a month or so. I’m thinking it doesn’t like being outdoors, even in the shade. But I like the extra space I have in the house during the summer once all 52 cactuses have been moved to their outdoor summer homes! I don’t know the scientific names for all our cactuses, many seem to have been mislabeled, simple called “Euphorbia” or my favorite, “cactus”. We just enjoy them, after all a cactus by any other name will still look stunning. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back You Know It Is Summer When You Have Strawberry Pie Mary Holec, Dakota County Master Gardener Those of you who have established strawberry plants may be harvesting them in June. And, those of you who do not have strawberry plants may be looking forward to enjoying the harvested strawberries beginning in June. And, to carry it one step further, those of you who want to have your own strawberries to harvest next June, should plant young plants in early June. Here is one recipe that makes it all worthwhile. Those of you who have established strawberry plants may be harvesting them in June. And, those of you who do not have strawberry plants may be looking forward to enjoying the harvested strawberries beginning in June. And, to carry it one step further, those of you who want to have your own strawberries to harvest next June, should plant young plants in early June. Strawberries can be a low-calorie snack and they contain lots of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. We cannot claim that this recipe can be counted as low-calorie. But we can claim that it is delicious! This is a family favorite during strawberry season! Fresh Strawberry Pie Ingredients: ½ cup butter 1 cup flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup water, divided 3 tablespoons strawberry gelatin (powder) 1-quart fresh strawberries Directions: Crust : combine butter, flour and 2 tablespoons sugar until crumbly. Press into pie plate and bake at 400 degrees F about 8 – 10 minutes. Cool. Filling : In saucepan, combine remaining sugar, cornstarch and salt with 1/3 cup cold water. Add 2/3 cup boiling water and cook until clear. Add gelatin. Mix well. Pour over 1-quart fresh strawberries. Cool slightly. Add to cooled crust and top with whipped cream. Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Eat and enjoy! Photo Credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net , (All Creative Commons) (1), CookingwithRuthie.com , (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Planning to Promote Success in Your 2022 Vegetable Garden March is a great time to start to plan for your summer vegetable garden. Whether you’re planning your first vegetable garden or you’re an experienced vegetable gardener, there are things you can be doing to enhance the probability of a successful growing season. Linda Stein, Master Gardener Experienced gardeners review last year’s successes and failures. Some problems that you encountered may be indicative of issues that you may wish to address as you prepare for the upcoming growing season. If your vegetable plants had lush leaf growth but limited vegetables, it may be because your soil has excess nitrogen and/or inadequate phosphorus. When we experience a thaw and you can dig in your garden, you may wish to have a soil test to determine how to amend the soil to promote effective growth. Go to the University of Minnesota’s website ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden ) for details on how to submit a sample for testing. If you have been planting the same vegetables in the same locations you may have seen poorer harvests. As you prepare for the coming year consider rotating the location of specific plants to reduce damage from insect pests, limit the development of vegetable-specific diseases and manage soil fertility. Vegetables should be considered in the following groups: root vegetables, fruit-bearing vegetables, legumes, and leafy vegetables as you rotate the location of plants. So, for example, don’t plant fruit-bearing plants such as bell peppers where tomatoes were planted last year. Instead, plant legumes, root vegetables like carrots, or leafy vegetables such as lettuce. Many vegetables can be started from seeds, planted indoors and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. March is the appropriate time to plant broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower seeds indoors so they are ready for the Minnesota growing season. If you are planning your first vegetable garden, consider the following: Review your yard to find a location that receives at least 6 hours of sun. Decide which vegetables you would like to grow. Some of the easiest ones to grow include lettuce, cucumbers, green beans, summer squash, root vegetables (such as radishes and carrots), bell peppers, tomatoes, and peas. Review online listings or plant catalogs to determine the specific variety of the vegetables to plant. Make sure the plant will survive in Minnesota’s climate. Also consider the production habit of the plant. Some varieties continue producing over a prolonged period of time while others produce all their fruit over a short period of time. Develop a layout for planting. Consider traditional straight rows or square foot layouts. Consider how many plants of each vegetable to plant. Some vegetables like to be planted close together while others prefer space to allow good air flow around the plant. Plant tall plants along the northern end of our garden so they don’t shade shorter plants. Send a soil sample to the University of Minnesota to determine how you should amend the soil to promote plant health and vegetable production. (See link to the soil testing site above.) Consider March the start of your vegetable growing season and prepare for success in your 2022 garden. Photo Credit: Linda Stein (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Southern Foodways Alliance (3)

< Back Guarding the Gardener: Cold Injury Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. But working outside in Minnesota in January can lead to cold injury. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Read this article to help yourself to keep safe in the winter “garden.” Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. Spring is just around the corner, so get to work! Unfortunately, weather that's good for winter gardening isn’t necessarily good for winter gardeners. Of course, I'm talking about cold injury, something that’s always a potential winter danger up here in the Northern Midwest. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Not all of us have the luxury of a heated greenhouse. Typically, you're out late in the afternoon, trying to get just a few garden chores done. The sun is waning and the wind is picking up on a frigid stretch of garden. That's an ideal set-up for freezing some part of your anatomy--frostbite! The mildest form of frostbite is frostnip , something that almost all of us have experienced. First, your skin pales or turns red and feels very cold. Keep trying to clip off all those “witches’ brooms” and you start feeling prickling and numbness in the exposed skin. As you finally head back to the house and heat up, your skin warms and you may feel pain and tingling. Frostnip doesn't permanently damage the skin but it sure can be uncomfortable! If you just have to get all those chores done, no matter what and your cold exposure increases you will progress to " superficial frostbite ." The skin that was previously red from frostnip turns a pale white. As you rewarm, the skin may look mottled, blue or purple. You may notice stinging, burning and swelling. A fluid-filled blister sometimes appears 24 to 36 hours later. With superficial frostbite you could have some permanent tissue damage. If you stay out working in the bitter cold even longer, you can progress to severe (deep) frostbite . Here the skin and underlying tissues freezes solid. The exposed finger, toe or nose becomes numb. All sense of cold, pain, or discomfort is lost. The joints don't bend. The muscles don't work. Again, blisters may pop up 24 to 48 hours later. The underlying skin then turns black and hard as tissue dies. You're in big trouble! If you are experiencing anything more severe than frostnip, you should seek medical attention. Of course, there are a number of things you can do to protect yourself from getting into that situation. First of all, wear suitable clothing. That seems like a no-brainer, but how often do you go outside to do chores that “will just take a minute” and stay an hour? The risk of frostbite increases dramatically in temperatures below 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Wind chills below - 16 degrees Fahrenheit can cause severe frostbite in less than 30 minutes. A number of things can increase your chances of getting frostbite. Alcohol or drugs, smoking, dehydration, mental or physical exhaustion all lower your resistance to frostbite. Being at high altitude reduces oxygen supply to tissues and allows damage to occur more easily. Keep that in mind if you are taking a winter vacation to the ski slopes. One final caution: if you or someone with you begins to experience intense shivering, slurred speech, loss of coordination or drowsiness, get out of the cold fast and seek medical attention. These are signs of hypothermia--a lowering of your body core temperature. If that continues, loss of consciousness, heart rhythm disturbance and death can follow. All that “getting ready for spring” stuff can wait ‘till spring! Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons (1), vriethael.deviantart.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens): An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener American Bittersweet is a hardy native vine traditionally found on country roads and farms. It puts on a beautiful display of orange-hulled fruit in autumn. It has been a favorite material for welcoming door wreaths. Read this article about this beautiful and useful native Minnesota plant. A few years back, each fall we used to scan the shoulders of country roads for native bittersweet. It was an old custom of local farm folk to make wreathes of bittersweet to hang over their doors as a welcome. Apparently, this old folkway has caught on and wild bittersweet has become a rarity, at least around the Cities. Fortunately, this hardy native vine can still be purchased at local nurseries and you can “grow you own” fall decorations. Bittersweet is found in mesic woods, woodland edges and hedgerows throughout the Upper Midwest. Its great attraction is its display of orange-hulled, vermillion fruit which form in the late summer, creating a brilliant display in autumn after leaf-drop. Bittersweet is fairly easy to grow in well-drained soil. It isn’t too fussy about the clay soils we so often encounter here. Full sun to part shade is a must for vigorous growth. Although the vine can be slow growing for the first season or two it will eventually take off and be quite drought resistant. This is a plus given the dry summers we have recently been experiencing. You will want to place it on a fence or a trellis as it is a vigorous woody vine. Another approach is to plant it among established small trees in a woodland edge. This sets it up for a show in the late fall when the trees are bare. One caveat : Celastrus scandens is dioecious, meaning vines are either male or female. So, it takes “two to tango” to generate that wonderful orange-red fruit. Hopefully your nursery can help you to obtain the correct gender of vines. If you are growing bittersweet from seed or are purchasing seedlings, plant several of them in proximity to assure a male and female vine for fruiting. One other caveat : American bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental Roundleaf bittersweet ( Celastrus orbiculatus ). The latter is native to China but has proven to be highly invasive here in North America. In theory it should no longer be sold in commercial nurseries, but you never know. It is pretty easy to differentiate from American bittersweet in that the native plant’s fruit capsules are orange. Oriental bittersweet’s fruit capsules are yellow. American bittersweet’s fruits are on the terminal stem ends. Orientals are along the stems at the leaf axis. If you come across oriental bittersweet on your property, eliminate it! The MN Department of Agriculture has good information on the subject: ( https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/orientalbittersweet/bittersweetdiffs ). Photo credits: MN Department of Agriculture (all)

< Back Cold Stratification for Seed Starting Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and it can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. Read this article to understand how to provide cold stratification for the plants that need it. Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener Cold Stratification Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. This article to explains the process of cold stratification for the plants that need it. Certain seeds, such as Milkweed, Purple Coneflower and Black-Eyed Susan, benefit from a period of cold stratification before planting. Cold stratification is a process where seeds are exposed to moisture and cold temperatures. This helps break their dormancy and promotes successful germination. Purple Coneflower In Minnesota, this process occurs naturally outdoors. Plants produce seeds in late summer, which are then exposed to snow and low temperatures during the winter. As the snow melts and the weather warms in spring, these seeds sprout. This adaptation ensures seeds and plants in areas with cold winters germinate in spring when conditions are optimal for growth instead of prematurely in the fall when new seedlings would be too fragile to survive the winter. Many Minnesota native plants require this cold stratification process to germinate. Home gardeners can mimic these cold, moist conditions indoors using a refrigerator. The length of time required for cold stratification varies by plant species, typically ranging from one to three months. For example, Purple Coneflower seeds require about 60 days of cold treatment. Always consult the seed packet for specific germination instructions, if stratification is needed and recommended time to start seed indoors. If seeds are collected and saved without packaging, be sure to research germination needs for the plant species. The beginning months of the year are an ideal time to begin cold stratification for seeds that require longer periods of cold. Starting early allows seeds to be grown indoors and planted outside in spring after danger of last frost. Artificial Cold Stratification at Home Refrigerator Cold/Moist Stratification Materials needed: Refrigerator, Paper Towel, Resealable Plastic Bag, Permanent Marker, Thermometer (if needed) Moisten a paper towel so it is damp but not soggy. Wring the paper towel out until no excess water drips out. Using paper towel that is too wet can lead to mold. Next, place the seeds in a single layer on half of the paper towel and then fold over other half so that it covers the seeds. Use a permanent marker to label a bag with the plant name, the date started and date to remove from the refrigerator after the amount of time indicated on the seed packet. Then transfer the paper towel and seeds into the bag and seal. Place the bag in the refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F and 40°F. Set a reminder on your phone or calendar for the future date when the seeds should be removed. Check the seeds weekly to monitor the moisture, ensuring that the paper towel does not dry out or has become too wet. If the paper towel is too dry, mist with a spray bottle until damp. If the paper towel is too wet, it could be replaced with a new damp paper towel. If any seeds have sprouted, they can be planted right away into small pots with a seed-starting mix indoors. If the seeds have not sprouted yet, they can be sown into pots once the cold moist stratification period is complete. Visit the University of Minnesota Yard and Garden site for useful tips for starting seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#when-to-plant-seeds-1178964 By following these steps and taking the time for artificial cold stratification, you’ll set up your seeds for successful germination. Common Milkweed Sources and for more in-depth reading : 1 . Seed stratification: What seeds require cold treatment. (2022, January 27). Illinois Extension. https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-01-27-seed-stratification-what-seeds-require-cold-treatment 2. Capon, B. (2005) Botany for Gardeners 3. Unknown. (n.d.). Native seed propagation methods. https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/Portals/0/Shaw%20Nature%20Reserve/PDFs/horticulture/Propagation.pdf 4. USDA NRCS Elsberry Plant Materials Center, Britton, N., 1913, Brown, N., Henry, J., Bruckerhoff, S., & Kaiser, J. (2003). Plant fact sheet . https://plants.usda.gov/DocumentLibrary/factsheet/pdf/fs_ecpa.pdf Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,4), Jessie Thompson (2,3)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Preserving Your Harvest Tori Clark, Master Gardener Many of the vegetables you have been growing all summer are ready to harvest in September. Unfortunately, most things can only be stored fresh for a short period of time even in perfect conditions. If you have the time and the inclination you can harvest more of your garden and preserve it to enjoy long after the growing season has passed. Late summer means harvest time in Minnesota gardens! You can harvest vegetables and more at peak ripeness, but most things can only be stored fresh for a short period of time even in perfect conditions. You have eaten your fill, but the garden keeps on giving so if you have the time and the inclination you can harvest more of your garden and preserve it to enjoy long after the growing season has passed. Options for preserving fruits, vegetables, and herbs include freezing, drying, canning, pickling, and more. Each option has its benefits and drawbacks and some options are better for preserving different types of food. The University of Minnesota Extension has a series of short, informative food preservation videos to get you the information you need to safely preserve your vegetables, sauces, jams, and salsas to enjoy later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Is it Too Late to Plant . . .? Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? This article explains why the answer is a resounding No! There are many vegetables and annuals that have a shorter time to maturation and will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your June labor. Read on to learn how to save your summer planting enjoyment. Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? The resounding and reassuring answer is – No! And the answer is also – it depends. There are many vegetables and flowers that you can plant in June and still get a good harvest. However, there are a few plants that need a long growing season and planting in June might not provide sufficient time for flowers or vegetables to mature. This year, we’ve had a cool, wet spring and many of the perennials (plants that grow back every year) are ‘behind schedule,’ emerging or blooming at least a couple of weeks late. This suggests we already have a delayed planting season and even gardens planted early might be growing slowly or may even need to be replanted if the seeds rotted in the wet soil or tiny plants experienced a frost or freeze. How do you know what you can plant? There are some key items to look at – read the back of the seed packages, if you are sowing seeds, or tags inserted into plants you purchase. The back of the seed package tells you when it is best to plant the seeds, how long before the seed will germinate (when you can expect to see green pushing up out of the ground), and how long to harvest if the seed is going to produce vegetables. If the seed package says 90 days until harvest, you can plant it, but you might not get to pick anything unless we have a long, warm fall. In the picture, you can see Turnips have an estimated 45 days to harvest, so that would work but Parsnips are harvested 95 days after sowing. Even in a good growing year, Parsnips might be a gamble. If the package says the vegetable is a cool season crop, like peas, lettuce, or spinach, you might want to wait until late summer to plant as we are (usually) heading into our hottest growing time in late June, July, and August. You may have missed the spring season harvest, but you have an opportunity to enjoy the vegetable in the Fall. For more information on planting for fall harvest, see the Mid-Summer Planting Guide on the University of Minnesota Extension website. It also has excellent online resources and a handy “at a glance chart” on when to plant: Planting and Growing Guides If you were not able to start seeds yourself for plants needing more growing time than we have in a Minnesota summer, you could consider buying plants from garden centers or nurseries. This will increase your chances of planting late but still successfully growing longer season plants. Flowers don’t have the same timescale on their packages, but you can gather some hints from how the package describes planting. For example, if the package directs you to start the seed inside several weeks before outdoor planting, this may be a flower that needs a longer season than we have in Minnesota. This is not a hard and fast rule, however, as Zinnia packages suggest starting seeds indoors a few weeks before planting. You can successfully direct seed Zinnias – and many other flower seeds – through late June - early July. Just a word of caution: perennials can be sold in seed packets, but will take several years to reach maturity and bloom. To learn whether the flower you want to grow is an annual or perennial, and more information about many types of flowers and flower landscapes, e.g., pollinator gardens, you can refer to - UMN Extension Flowers In the end, especially with seeds, it never hurts to try. One year, I planted sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnias on the Fourth of July – all by seed – and by mid-August, had a pollinator’s paradise and riots of color to enjoy from my deck until Fall. Planting in June is very doable and, while you might have to watch neighbors and friends enjoying their garden harvest while you wait, you will be able to eat your own home-grown vegetables – just a little later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (2) & Mickey Scullard (1,3)

< Back Roasted Stuffed Butternut Squash Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a special vegetable dish for the holidays? Or, how about a vegetable-main dish combination perfect for cold winter nights? What vegetable could fit the bill better than butternut squash? This recipe will make your mouth water and your tummy full. Ingredients Topping : 1/4 cup crumbled Feta Fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano as a garnish Honey (optional) Filling: 1lb. (uncooked) of your favorite sausage Squash: 1 large Butternut Squash, halved and seeded 2 TBSP Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste or, Garlic salt and smoked paprika. Directions Preheat oven or grill to 400° Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush olive oil on squash halves. Make several cuts in the neck and cube the neck, putting the cubes in the seed cavity. Season to taste with salt and pepper or garlic salt and smoked paprika. 4. Stuff with the sausage. If using the grill, place on an aluminum baking sheet, or whatever you might ordinarily use. Cook cut side up for 40-45 minutes or until done. Top with feta cheese. Drizzle with honey, if desired. Run under broiler for a bit, if you want more color. Garnish with fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-5)

< Back Lasagna Soup Lasagna Soup Too many tomatoes? Basil that needs a recipe? This month’s Vegetable Section features “Lasagna soup” that uses both garden vegetables. As fall days become cooler, we can all use a comforting, hearty soup. Lasagna soup is a hearty meal option and with the addition of focaccia bread and a green vegetable, you will have a comfy meal fit for company. Click on the following link to view the recipe. The site adds information on how to freeze lasagna soup, a crockpot version and other substitutions. There is also a link to a quick marinara sauce. Replace purchased sauce with cooked garden tomatoes. Stew 10 or more medium to large tomatoes and follow the recipe. Bow tie or other shaped pasta may be substituted if lasagna noodles are not on the pantry shelf. Top the soup with the following ricotta/parmesan topping. Lasagna Soup Topping 6 tbsp shredded mozzarella cheese 1/2cup part skim ricotta cheese 3 tbsp grated parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup fresh basil chiffonade Bon Appetit! Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (all)