< Back Plants for Winter Interest Marjory Blare, Master Gardener In Minnesota, the winter color palette tends toward white, brown and gray. But we need not think of this landscape as drab or uninteresting. Fill your yard with interesting shrubs and sturdy perennials to enjoy a peacefully pleasing home landscape. Read this article for several plants that liven up a winter landscape. When beautiful white snow blankets everything, it's nice to have plants that provide a contrast to that blanket. Here are several plants that liven up a winter landscape: Red or Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) These extremely hardy native shrubs add bright red or yellow stems to your yard. They can grow 6-8 feet tall and the same in width. They can take full sun to part-shade. They tolerate wet conditions and are deer-resistant. The yellow twig dogwood is a natural variant of the red. To keep the stems bright, prune out the older stems to stimulate new growth. Other common names for this shrub include: Shoemack, Waxberry Cornel, Red-Dosier Cornel, Red Willow, Red Brush, Red Rood, Harts Rouges, Gutter Tree and Dogberry Tree. As a bonus the bright twigs can be cut to add a bright vertical element to winter pots! Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) This densely-needled conifer provides a medium green note to your yard. Various cultivars range from 2-10 feet tall and 2-15' wide. It is tolerant of many soil types, but doesn't like wet feet. It is salt and pollution tolerant, deer-resistant and requires full sun. You may want to prune some of the taller varieties, which involves cutting the new growth back by half. False Cypress 'Golden Mops” (Chamaecyparis) Golden Mops forms a slightly conical mound of scaly, yellow, thread-like leaves. They grow slowly to 3-5 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide. They need full-sun to part-shade, but look greener in shade. They are drought and salt tolerant and can take some browsing by deer and rabbits. They are not too picky about soil, but don't like wet feet. Dark Green Spreader Yew (Taxus x media) This shrub that is a darker green than the Mugo pine. This shrub will easily take light, full-shade. It thrives in all soils as long as they are well-drained. It is deer-resistant. Take note that all parts of it are poisonous. Its red berries are attractive to small children. It can grow up to 10 feet tall and will generally be wider than tall. It doesn't require pruning, but does respond well to it. American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) Here is a conifer with an upright columnar habit. The native plant can reach heights of 30', but there are many cultivars such as 'Hetz Midget', that are only 3-4 feet wide by 4-5 feet tall. In hard winters, deer will forage on arborvitae. Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar. There are many other plants that can provide interest: Joe Pye Weed seed heads, tall sedum, seed heads from flowers. Ornamental grasses that provide a creamy, tan color. Look for plants that have interesting shapes, such as Henry Lauder's Walking Stick, with its twisty branches. Then there are interesting barks such as the native small tree, Serviceberry with glossy bark or (taller) river birch with exfoliating bark. Winterberry, hollies, White Baneberry (another native) and some crab-apples all hang onto their fruit into the winter. Winter is a great time to plan for next year's winter interest. Research your plants and be sure to get a soil test before planting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Marjory Blare (2, 4, 5), WWW.flickr.com Mark Bolin (3)

< Back June - Fun With Fairy Gardens Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Fairy gardens are a great way to experience gardening with your children or grandchildren but – grownups love them, too. It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. This article will inspire to experience the joy of fairy gardens. Fairy gardens have become increasingly popular. So, exactly what is this fairy garden craze all about? It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. Throughout history, tales have existed of flower fairies. Flower fairies are nature spirits who care for flowers, plants, and trees. They have their own distinctive personality derived from her plant which determines their aesthetic, mood, and character. It’s also said that whenever a seed sprouts, a flower fairy baby is born. They live and sleep on their chosen flower, plant, or tree and as they grow the fairy grows too. ( www.pickupflowers.com ) Fairies are attracted to spaces filled with life. They can occur under, in, and around trees such as oak, elders, yew, holly, yellow elm, and many more life sustaining trees. Flowers that attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds also attract fairies such as pansies, bee balm, petunias, foxglove, sunflower, columbine, tulips, snapdragons, cosmos, and violets. Even foliage creates shadows and hiding spaces for shy fairies. Emphasize the natural as they’re very nature oriented and will be attracted to your efforts and set-up homesteads near you in nature. ( GardeningKnowHow.com , Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist, 3/25/21) There are unlimited fairy garden ideas available, both inside and outside … only limited by your imagination. Release your inner child and step into the fairy world by creating your own enchanted garden. Create a small magical spot in your garden, a special place to focus on the small details of nature, and to explore the range of your imagination. The idea is to plant certain flowers that fairies would like or build them a little house to calm a malicious fairy or receive good luck from a grateful one. There are numerous containers you can use to create a fairy garden, and you will see them listed throughout this article. Other elements you can use for your fairy gardens include birdhouses, toad stool houses, water fountains, small streams, bowls of water, statuary that honors elves, fairies, and gnomes. I remember being at the Arboretum during my intern training and they had a gorgeous set-up for a massive fairy garden. I made one for inside our home which took virtually a few hours to make. So, give it a shot … you’ll find the fun and magical mystery of creating your very own fairy garden. Photo credits: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1, 2), Julie Harris (3), Carolyn Plank (4)

< Back Paper Poinsettias Here is a fun seasonal project for your Growing Sprout. Read on to find out how to make them and where poinsettias grow. It might surprise you! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardeners Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Central America. The part we think of as the flower are actually a special leaf called a bract; the real flower is in the middle with the yellow part. The ASPCA lists it as poisonous to cats, but of course, ours won’t be! For the project you will need: 2 sheets of red paper 1 sheet of a darker or lighter red color 1 sheet of green paper A bit of yellow paper Scissors Glue Light weight cardboard such as a cereal box Pen Glitter (optional) First you will need to cut out two paper templates, one smaller than the other, and then cut out the cardboard templates. If your sprout is older, you can make the bracts fancier. Once you have the templates, your Sprout can trace them on the paper. They will need 8 red, and three green shapes of the larger bracts, and 8 shapes of the smaller contrasting color. Glue four of the larger bracts together, then layer four more at right angles to the first. Fold the smaller bracts in half lengthwise, don’t make the crease sharp. Older Sprouts can also fold the larger bracts. It’s a little harder to glue when you do this. They can experiment with having the folds be upside down relative to the smaller bracts. Glue in the same manner as the larger bracts. Add a little extra glue to hold the smaller bracts to the larger. Glue the three green bracts behind the large bracts, cut out and glue 3 small circles of the yellow paper to the center of the poinsettia and you’re done! Happy Holidays! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-11)

< Back Fall Lawn Care Margie Blare, Master Gardener Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Renovation Fall can be a great time to renovate your lawn. Seeding is easier because the seedlings won’t experience as much heat stress. Avoid adding additional nitrogen as it will over-stimulate the existing grass, thereby crowding out the new seedlings. Fine fescues will use less water, and tall fescues have longer roots. Figuring out why your lawn isn’t doing well before renovating it, will save you time and money. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability for more information. If you are laying down sod it, too, benefits from cooler temperatures in the fall and will require less water. Fertilization When temperatures are between 50 and 75 degrees your grass starts storing nutrients in its roots, to be used next spring, so late August through mid October is the optimal time to fertilize. Applying fertilizer in the spring leads to fast growth that suffers in the summer heat. Applying it after the ground is frozen creates run-off pollution and wastes your money. You should start with a soil test (go to: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ or e-mail soiltest@umn.edu ) before applying fertilizer. Weed Control Fall can also be a great time to kill those perennial broad-leaf weeds. They, too, are storing nutrients in their roots, so taking care of them in the fall eliminates them next spring. If using an herbicide (or fertilizer), always read ALL the instructions and follow recommendations for application rates, weather conditions and personal protection. Spot-treating may be the most economical and safest way to apply broad-leaf weed control products. Herbicide/fertilizer combination products can compromise both the fertilizer and the weed control effectiveness due to the ‘water-in’ vs. ‘leave-on-the-leaf” instructions. Crabgrass sprouts earlier in the year, so don’t use a crabgrass pre-emergent product in the fall. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar for more information. Mowing Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, sometime in October. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and remove no more than the top 1/3 of grass length in any one mowing. During warm weather 3-4” long grass keeps the ground moister. But if you leave it long over the winter it becomes a vole paradise! Leaving (small) grass clippings on your lawn returns their nitrogen to the lawn and mulching blades help keep the clippings small. Bee Lawns Bee populations have been declining in part due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Having flowering plants in a lawn will help bees, and you also increase your lawn’s resilience; it will have healthier soil and need less watering, mowing, and fertilizer. White clover, Creeping thyme, Self heal, and Ground plum are low-growing flowers that tolerate mowing down to 3 inches. Turf areas that have little foot traffic or that are primarily aesthetic are great locations. Examples are: steep slopes, right of ways or easements. Do not use broad-leaf weed control on Bee Lawns: it will kill all the flowers that the bees need. Spot treat very carefully. Go to: https://bluethumb.org/turf-alternatives/pollinator-lawn/ for more information. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Incorporate Vertical Gardening into Your Garden Space Spring has arrived and we can begin to implement the garden plans that we developed during the winter months. As you planned your garden, did you consider how to use vertical as well as horizontal space? Will you have plants requiring support? Do you want to expand your garden space by utilizing vertical as well as the horizontal space available? Vertical plantings can also add visual elements that enhance the beauty of the garden over and above the appearance of the plants themselves. This article provides important information about why you might want to include vertical plantings in your garden and how to do so successfully through various types of trellising. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Green tomato trellis As you are planning your garden, an important consideration is how to use vertical as well as horizontal space. Will there be plants requiring support? Do you want to expand your garden space by utilizing vertical as well as the horizontal space available? Vertical plantings can also add visual elements that enhance the beauty of the garden over and above the appearance of the plants themselves. Incorporating trellises into your garden space may be an option to consider in response to all these considerations. Many plants benefit from the support provided by trellises. Tomatoes, pole beans, and melons are great examples. The plants benefit from airflow around the plants. The plants and their fruit receive more exposure to the sun that helps the fruit ripen. By securing the plants above the ground you can reduce the risk of exposure to various pests thus reducing the need for pesticides. And if additional interventions are needed, it is easier to pick off the pests, or spray or dust with pesticides or herbicides. Vertical gardening is also a way to expand what you can produce in a limited space. Instead of using a larger footprint there is space to grow other plants. In addition, trellises simplify weeding by moving the plant from the ground. They also reduce the need to kneel down to harvest by moving the vegetables to eye level. When you have decided to include trellises in your garden, you need to decide what kind. There are a many different types of trellises available for purchase. Here are examples of cages and flat trellises. Cages are used with tomatoes, squash, melons, and other vegetables. Two-foot diameter cages fashioned from wood or wire allow for easy trellising and harvest. Hog-wire, woven wire panels, or concrete reinforcing wire can be used. Each comes in a 4-inch square grid. These materials have the strength necessary to support healthy vines with heavy fruit. For ease of plant management, cage your vegetable plants at planting and train the vines to the inside of the cage as they grow. flat green trellis on apartment balcony However, homemade vertical plant supports are also an option. There are an infinite number of ways of creating homemade supports. When designing a trellis, a primary consideration is assuring that the structure will be able to support the plant when the plant is mature and full of its blossoms or vegetables. With that in mind a trellis for cucumbers or melons needs to be stronger than that to be used for beans or peas. Flowers such as peonies will also benefit from trellising. A trellis for peonies should be somewhere between the strength needed for melons and that needed for beans. vertical wooden trellis in a garden The primary support can be provided by PVC pipes, bamboo stakes, wooden or steel fence posts, to name a few options. Chemically treated wood should be avoided to prevent the possible harmful impact on the plants. The type of plant dictates how you will need to secure the plant to the trellis. Beans and peas create tendrils that will twine to the structure. However, tomatoes and other plants need to be tied. Choose wires, nylon or polypropylene cording should be selected instead of cotton to tie to the supports since these options won’t stretch. vertical trellis made with PVC pipe A vertical trellis can be built by setting sturdy support posts about 2 feet into the ground. The tops of the posts should be about 6 feet above the soil surface. Stretch a heavy wire, barbed wire, cable, or wooden two-by-four between the tops of the posts and another, if desired, between the bases of the supports, near the soil. One trellising method is to drop vertical twines from the upper support down to each plant. A double wire works especially well as a support here because it prevents twine from slipping to the center as the top wire sags with the weight of the plants. Tie the vertical support to the base of each plant or to a bottom wire, if one is used. As plants grow, wrap them around the twine for support or tie or clip them to the twine using plastic clips that greenhouse tomato growers use (see Resources ). Another trellising method uses nylon mesh or hog wire with a 4-inch square grid. Either material can be attached to the upright stakes and upper supports to provide trellising. With this method as well, use ties or clips to train the vines to the mesh as they grow. When using wire mesh for trellising, check that the fruit does not imbed itself into the wire. Support can also be provided by existing structures such as building walls or fences. Trellises can also beautify these structures. trellis on side of house, showing several rectangular structures, screening material and a plant growing up the side wooden trellis on side of house, with wire caging near ground and plant growing up the side In the online article, Trellising, Staking, and Caging, Vertical Gardening Techniques for Vine-Type Vegetables , the Wisconsin Horticulture Division of their Extension program provides the following details for constructing plant supports: Staking requires 5 to 6-foot wooden, metal, or plastic stakes made with PVC pipe, electrical conduit, bamboo stakes, galvanized pipe, or wooden or steel fence posts. Wooden stakes should be at least 1 inch square. Again, do not use chemically treated wood . Metal stakes can be of smaller diameter and have the advantage of lasting many years. Vines can be tied to single stakes, or three or four stakes can be grouped and secured at the top to form a tripod structure, with vines trained to climb each pole. Another method is to weave a wire, cording, or wood such as saplings and branches between the tripod stakes and train vines to climb along the woven material and up the tripod structure. tripod formed by stakes tied together in large garden The stake-and-weave method (photo below) is an alternative system to support plants in a row. Stakes are spaced about every 6 feet. Use polypropylene or nylon cording (it doesn't stretch like cotton or hemp products): tie the cord to the first stake about 6 to 10 inches above the ground. Run the cord to the second stake and wrap it around the stake once at the same level; be sure to keep the cord tight. Repeat this process, going on to the third, fourth, and remaining stakes until you reach the end of the row. Come back with the cord on the opposite side of the stakes, wrapping it around each stake. Plants are held in the space between the cords; this will help support plants that do not form tendrils, such as tomatoes. Repeat this process as plants grow so the branches are always held between the cording. Three to five runs down the row should be enough for the season. If the woven cording begins to stretch apart, tie the parallel cords together about midway between the stakes for added plant support. While this method is very successful with tomato plants, be sure to prune out the suckers as the plants grow in order to reduce the foliage that must be supported. diagram of stake-and-weave system There are many reasons to consider vertical gardening in your yard and there are many different methods and tools to do so. Whether your trellis is handmade, store-bought, plain or fancy, the important thing is that it is sufficient to do its main job – supporting your plant. References: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/trellising-staking-and-caging-vertical-gardening-techniques-vine-type-vegetables/ https://extension.k-state.edu/news-and-publications/news/stories/2025/04/horticulture-vertical-garden.html https://lancaster.unl.edu/vertical-gardening-makes-most-small-garden-footprint/ Photo Credits: Linda Stein (1-6), University of Wisconsin Extension (7)

< Back Blending Annuals and Perennials for Continuous Summer Bloom Gardens built on perennials alone can shine brilliantly for a few weeks, then settle into quieter stretches. The solution isn’t to abandon perennials, but to partner them with annuals in a way that keeps the show going from late spring to frost. By layering the strengths of both—perennials for structure and rhythm, annuals for reliable, season-long color—you can create a garden that never feels finished but never feels empty either. Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener backyard garden of mixed perennials and annuals; Credit: Julie Deane Understanding the Rhythm of Bloom Perennials are the backbone of many gardens, but they bloom in waves. Some peak in late spring, others in midsummer, and a final group carries into fall. Even the longest-blooming perennials have natural pauses. Annuals, on the other hand, are marathon performers. Once planted, they flower continuously until frost, largely indifferent to the seasonal ebb and flow around them. When you design with both in mind, you create a relay: as one plant finishes its moment, another seamlessly takes over. Color with Intention A successful mixed planting doesn’t rely on randomness. Start with a defined color palette—whether it’s soft pastels, vibrant contrasts, or a relaxed cottage mix—and repeat those colors throughout the space. Don’t overlook foliage. Silvery leaves, chartreuse highlights, and deep burgundy tones provide continuity even when flowers ebb, acting as a visual thread that ties the garden. Cherry Wave petunias and rudbeckia daisies; Credit Julie Deane Designing for a Natural Look The most effective mixed plantings avoid rigid patterns. Instead of isolating annuals in separate beds, tuck them into open pockets among perennials. This interplanting creates a cohesive, layered look and prevents the garden from feeling segmented. And always plant with growth in mind. What looks sparse in early spring will fill in quickly. Leave space for air circulation and mature size—your plants will reward you with better health and stronger performance. Maintaining the Momentum A continuous display does require a bit of attention. Deadheading encourages many annuals—and some perennials—to keep blooming. Or choose plants that don’t require deadheading, like wave petunias and rudbeckia daisies in the pictures. Regular fertilizing supports the heavy flowering demands of annuals, which tend to need more nutrients than their perennial counterparts. Consistent watering, especially in mixed beds, ensures neither group is stressed during hot weather. By midseason, don’t hesitate to edit. Remove plants that are past their prime and replace them with fresh annuals. This simple refresh can extend the garden’s vibrancy well into fall. garden of mixed perennials and annuals; Credit: www.storage.googleapis.com Stretching Your Budget A beautiful garden doesn’t have to be an expensive one. Invest in high-quality, reliable perennials—they’ll form the backbone of your design for years to come. Annuals, meanwhile, can often be grown from seed at a fraction of the cost, offering abundant color for minimal investment. Some will even self-seed, returning unexpectedly in future seasons and adding to the garden’s evolving character. Dividing established perennials is another easy way to expand your planting over time, filling more space without additional cost. phlox seedling; Credit: www.sowrightseeds.com Designing for Continuity A garden designed for continuous color isn’t about achieving a single perfect moment. It’s about creating a sequence—one that unfolds gradually, shifts with the season, and remains engaging from beginning to end. When annuals and perennials are thoughtfully combined, the garden becomes less about peaks and pauses, and more about flow. And that’s where the real beauty lies—not in perfection, but in continuity.

< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)

< Back Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a small tree to add to your landscape? Consider the Pagoda Dogwood, it grows quickly and offers delicious berries for the birds in late summer. Read more about this attractive tree here. January is a time for planning. Where to put the annuals can be figured out on the fly. Perennial forbs take a bit of thought but you can dig most of them up if you want to move them next year. However, tree placement should be very carefully considered. What looks good now will be there years from now and may not look so good. Short of a chainsaw massacre, you’ll be stuck with the ill-considered tree. Then, of course, you have to consider size. Do you really want a 90-foot white oak in your 12 x 16 courtyard? Fortunately, if you are looking for a small tree, you have many excellent choices, one of which is the Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) or alternate-leaved dogwood. This beauty is a common understory tree which grows rapidly as a youngster, adding a new tier of branches each season. Pagoda dogwood is native to northeastern North America and is found in central and southern Minnesota, Iowa and all the way down to the Ozarks. It does best in well-drained soils and will have difficulty in clay or compacted soils. In the wild it is found in moist woodlands so it is best to plant it where it is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Observing this caveat, it will grow in full sun if there is sufficient moisture, but it will do better in part to near-full shade. One of its most compelling features is the berries produced in late summer, greatly loved by the birds. For good fruit-set, however two separate trees are needed. After a time, some trunks will suddenly die and turn orange. Quick rejuvenation is possible by pruning away the dead trunk. Select a vigorous new shoot from the sprouts that usually emerge quickly. Pagoda dogwood’s horizontal tiers of branches give the tree its name and render it a charming ornamental at the corner of the house or the edger of a wooded landscape. It is great as a bird garden plant. These lovely branches are festooned with clusters of creamy white blooms in the late spring. The resulting berries are bluish black and ripen in late summer, providing welcome nourishment to a variety of songbirds. Come fall, the leaves will turn a striking yellow to burgundy. The popularity of this showy ornamental has been enhanced by the development of a number of great cultivars. You might check your local nursery this spring for such attractive varieties as “Pistachio”, “French Vanilla”, “Gold Bullion” or “Big Chocolate Chip”. Whichever you choose, keep it well-watered and mulched that first year and you’ll soon have a great addition to your landscape! Photo credits: Morton Arboretum (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. So was I once myself a swinger of birches. And so I dream of going back to be. It’s when I’m weary of considerations, And life is too much like a pathless wood… From Birches by Robert Frost The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. Mind, this is a full-sized tree and one that will send out roots from which spring a gathering of birches if left to their own devices. In other words, it probably is not a suitable planting for a small suburban lot. If you do have a bit of room, however, within a few years you can achieve a gorgeous stand of grey-white sentinels, rustling softly in the summer wind, gently presiding over the restrained winter landscape. About seventeen species of birch are native to North America. They are rapid growing, reaching as much as 80 feet in height with a spread about half the height. Birches tend to colonize open ground, especially after a fire or other disturbance. In general, they favor light, well-drained, acidic soils as are often seen as pioneer trees after a burn. Of these seventeen, three species are most often used for landscaping: Yellow birch, River birch and Paper birch. Yellow birch ( Betula alleghaniensis ) is found across the Great Lakes into Minnesota. It is easy to grow from seed and transplants well as is true of all three species. It makes a fine shade tree but should be planted in a moist, sheltered site. So, an area to the north or east of the house would be ideal. Once established, the trunk and limbs display a shimmering silvery to copper gray exfoliating bark. Try crushing the buds or stems. They give off a strong scent of wintergreen! River birch ( Betula nigra ) as the name implies is mostly confined to the flood plains and riverbanks of the Midwest. The lower Minnesota River is a great place to look for them. Unlike its sisters, it is primarily a southern Midwestern tree, cold-hardy up to USDA zone 4. Also, it is susceptible to highly alkaline soils. So, keep plantings away from streets and sidewalks with alkaline concrete deposits. It’s not a street tree. It looks great in clumps developing a charcoal grey trunk over time. The younger bark is an attractive exfoliating white, with cream to salmon shades underneath. Paper birch ( Betula papyrifera ) is greatly prized for its stunning white bark. It prefers the cooler Upper Midwest. Unfortunately, many have fallen to the bronze birch borer. Borer-resistant strains have been developed and should be sought in your local nursery. Paper birch requires full sun and requires well drained soil. It makes a dramatic mass planting on the edge of woodlands, its native niche. So, take your pick, depending on your situation. But a word of caution: don’t swing on them. As Robert Frost once admitted, “It was almost sacrilegious, climbing a birch tree till it bent, till it gave and swopped to the ground, but that’s what boys did in those days”. Plus ça change… Photo credits: Forestryimages.org - All Creative Commons (1-3)

< Back Pruning Hydrangeas and Clematis Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? This article will help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? In this article I’ll help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. HYDRANGEAS When to prune hydrangeas depends on when it blooms. If the hydrangea blooms in late summer on new growth, pruning should take place in late winter or early spring before the shrub begins active growth. Some of the hydrangeas in this category include Limelight, Burgundy Lace and classic snowball types. Most other hydrangeas that bloom on old wood (growth from the previous year) should be pruned in summer after they’re done blooming. Pruning too soon increases the risk of cutting off dormant buds. Oakleaf, Big Leaf, Nikko Blue and other pink and blue flowering hydrangeas bloom from the previous year’s buds. If you want to maintain their size or shape, prune in summer before August. Ever-blooming hydrangeas such as Endless Summer also bloom on old and new wood and should also be pruned the same way. CLEMATIS Clematis pruning made simple. There are three groups of clematis. Group I is in the Red Category (red means stop) and blooms in early spring set on old wood from the previous year’s wood and doesn’t die back in winter. Pruning should be done sparingly. This category includes Pink Perfection, Spooneri and Pink Swing. Group II is in the Yellow Category (yellow means go slow) and grows on old wood in late spring/early summer, and on new wood in late summer or fall. This group should be given a light trim in March before it begins blooming. Remove dead wood and cut back remaining stems to 6-8”. This category includes Horn of Plenty, Patricia Ann Fretwell and Beautiful Bride. Group III is in the green category (green means go) and blooms on new wood in summer and dies off to the ground over winter. In March, prune all stems back to a strong set of buds 12” from the ground. This category includes Summer Snow, Prince William and Mississippi River. Stems of live and dead wood look alike. The leafy growth from the bud indicates a live vine. Always prune from the top down. Work down each vine until you find a live bud or growth and then stop once you find it. You can cut off all of last season’s growth to the ground; however, this results in a shorter plant, a few less flowers, and will bloom a little later. Happy pruning!! Below are a few great sites to visit for further information: University of Maryland Extension Guide to Pruning Hydrangeas | University of Maryland Extension ( umd.edu) Wayside Gardens Tips for Pruning Clematis l Wayside Gardens Spring Valley Nurseries Clematis Pruning Guide | Easy Clematis Care | Spring Hill Nurseries ( springhillnursery.com) Photo credits: Pat Cox (1), University of Maryland Extension (2), Kansas State Johnson County Research & Extension (3, 4)

< Back Imagining Your Garden’s Possibilities January is a month of fresh starts, a time to renew and begin again. Whether you were pleased or frustrated with your garden in 2021, the new year is a great time to dream about your 2022 garden’s possibilities. Valerie Rogotzke shares some thoughts about how to reimagine your garden. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener January is a month of fresh starts, a time to renew and begin again. This might not seem to be the best time to be thinking about the garden for Minnesotans, but the frozen ground outside gives gardeners a reprieve from weeding and a chance to imagine possibilities for the future. Perhaps your dream garden evokes a specific place. Imagine an English cottage garden with meandering borders bursting with colorful perennials and a bench under an arbor of hardy wisteria, like one of Gertrude Jekyll’s horticultural masterpieces at Hestercombe House or Lindisfarne Castle . Picture a formal French garden with manicured hedges and a water fountain, like the grounds of Vaux-le-Vicomte or the Tuileries in Paris. Envision a Japanese garden such as Kenroku-en or Koraku-en with winding stone paths through mossy undergrowth, evergreens in abundance, and a pool of still water. Which small elements from these styles could be transplanted to Dakota County? Perhaps your dream garden serves a particular function, providing you with flowers for cuttings, bees for pollinating, or vegetables for eating. To have flowers for bouquets all through the growing season, gardeners must plant with an eye to the calendar, making sure there are options peaking in each month. In addition, it is helpful to have flowers of different scales when assembling arrangements, with larger blooms like dahlias and roses balanced by smaller blooms or ornamental grasses to fill the vase. To encourage bee populations, begin to dig around in the UMN Extension program’s resources on choosing the best pollinator-friendly plants for our area and creating habitat and nesting sites for pollinators. To maximize your success with vegetables and fruits in your garden, take some time now, in winter, to take stock of what has been growing in your garden and what you would like to cultivate this year. Perhaps you have always wanted a small plot of asparagus or a pizza garden with basil and tomatoes. Maybe it’s just time to try something new: sorrel, maybe, or endives? Browse the U’s vegetable guides for ideas and tips for healthy vegetables. A vegetable garden need not be a grand ornamental potager like the kitchen gardens of Villandry – just consider what things you want to eat. Perhaps your dream garden includes time-intensive projects that will not be ready in a year or two, like espaliered apple trees . Perhaps you’d like to rewild an area of your land to encourage native prairie growth , build an Elizabethan knot garden out of interlocking hedges, or develop a natural dye garden with madder and indigo and coreopsis in order to dye fabrics. Whatever your dreams are for your garden, do your dreaming now and dream big! There will be time to prune these dreams back later when practical concerns are considered but January belongs to the imagination. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)