< Back Timing For Cutting, Pruning and Dividing Plants Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Gardeners understand that most plants and trees in their yards need to be pruned at times. The problem is that knowing when to prune can be confusing. Not all plants and trees should be pruned at the same time of year. Master Gardener Cherise Skeba found it hard to keep track of when to prune the plants in her yard despite a diligent effort to learn about each plant. After doing her research, she developed 7 rules that help her and can help you, to know when to prune to keep your plant healthy and producing beautiful blooms. Read this article to learn the 7 helpful rules As a garden enthusiast, I understand the need to cut, prune, divide and otherwise clean-up plants in my garden and yard. However, I have not found a reliable and easy system to know the best timing for these maintenance efforts. I have purchased gardening calendars and gardening books to help create a maintenance schedule. I even started a catalog for my individual plants, noting the recommended maintenance tasks and timing. I still found myself searching the internet every time I wanted to understand maintenance timing for a specific plant. There must be a better way to retain garden maintenance knowledge! This idea led me to review many garden maintenance articles and develop a simple rule set based on common plant characteristics that can be used to guide appropriate timing for plant cutting, pruning and dividing in northern climates. Here are seven rules to help everyone remember when to cut, prune and divide plants. Rule 1 : Dead, significantly diseased or severely insect-infected plant parts should be cut off from perennials and shrubs as soon as the problems are apparent. Rule 2 : Herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year) should be left intact to overwinter and then be cut down to the ground in the spring prior to blooming. This practice gives insects and animals food and shelter during the winter months. In addition, leaving the plants intact improves their winter survival chances. Autumn Joy Sedum in winter Exception: In the autumn, cut down to the ground perennials that have a history of disease or are especially prone to insect infestations. Cutting these plants back in the autumn reduces the chances of pests surviving through winter. Common plants that meet this exception are B ee balm, R udbeckia, I ris, P hlox, P eonies and A sparagus (acronym BRIPPA). Rule 3 : Division of perennial flowers should be completed in the spring for fall-blooming plants and in autumn for spring-blooming or summer-blooming plants. Rule 4 : Spring-flowering shrubs (bloom before June, e.g. lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas and rhododendron) should be trimmed immediately after the blooming period ends. These shrubs grow blooms on one-year-old wood. Trimming after the bloom period keeps the blooms intact for the current year and promotes new growth for blooms in the following year. Exception: A heavy prune to regenerate an overgrown spring-blooming plant should be completed in the winter. This will reduce the spring blooms but will ultimately promote a healthier plant. Rule 5 : Summer-flowering shrubs (bloom after June, e.g., Ninebark, panicle Hydrangeas) should be trimmed during late winter to early spring. These shrubs grow blooms on “new wood” (this season’s growth) and should therefore be trimmed prior to the time the new branches begin to grow to preserve the current year’s blooms. Do not prune shrubs late summer through autumn since this will promote new growth that would be susceptible to winter damage. Summer Ninebark Rule 6 : Deciduous trees , including fruit trees, should be pruned late winter. Winter trimming allows a full view of the tree’s shape and allows the wounds to heal before warm-weather pests begin to flourish. Refinements: Oak trees should not be pruned after February to avoid the spread of oak wilt disease. River birch trees should be pruned early in the winter after the leaves have fallen. Rule 7 : Evergreen shrubs and trees should not be pruned since branch removal may damage the integrity of the tree and new growth will not occur when pruning back to older growth. New evergreen buds (but not branches) may be trimmed in early spring to help shape the evergreens and promote density. I’ve created a short rhyme to help me remember the appropriate timing for cutting, dividing and pruning plants: Garden Pruning Calendar Herbaceous perennials peak through the snow But in the spring, cut to the ground or mow. Divide perennials in autumn if they bloom in the spring But divide in the spring if autumn blooms cling. Trim spring-blooming shrubs after flowers fade But wait until winter if there is a fall flower parade. Prune trees in the winter if they drop their leaves But evergreen plants should be left to do as they please. Cutting and pruning schedules for specific plants can be found in the citations below which also provide additional guidance for how to cut and prune plants. Citations with individual plant lists “How to Divide and Transplant Perennials”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-divide-and-transplant-perennials “Pruning Flowering Shrubs”, Rutgers University http://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1221/ “43 Perennials to Cut Back in the Spring”, The Spruce http://www.thespruce.com/pruning-perennials-in-spring-1402713 “Pruning Guide”, Bachman’s http://bachmans.com/information/resource-hub/pruning-guide “Pruning trees and shrubs”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs General citations “How and when to divide perennials”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials “Proper Time to Prune Trees and Shrubs”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/proper-time-prune-trees-and-shrubs “Pruning Deciduous Shrubs”, University of Wisconsin http://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-deciduous-shrubs/ “Cut Back Perennials Now or Later?”, Purdue University http://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/cut-back-perennials-now-or-later-2/ “How and When to Prune Flowering Shrubs”, Penn State http://extension.psu.edu/how-and-when-to-prune-flowering-shrubs “The Nuances of Pruning Spring-flowering Shrubs”, North Dakota State University http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/news/columns/dakota-gardener/dakota-gardener-the-nuances-of-pruning-spring-flowering-shrubs “Dormant Season Tree and Shrub Pruning”, University of Illinois http://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/dormant_season_pruning_infosheet.pdf “Pruning Shrubs and Hedges in the Home Garden”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/pruning-shrubs-and-hedges-home-garden/ “Leaving Perennials Standing: Pros and Cons”, Northern Gardener, Minnesota State Horticultural Society http://northerngardener.org/leaving-perennials-standing-pros-and-cons/ Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (Creative Commons)(1), Les Hutchinson, flickr.com (2) flickr.com (3)

< Back Sustainable Foraging for Wild Foods: Lessons from Indigenous Gardening Practices Foraging for wild foods is an increasingly popular activity, and it’s not hard to see why: it’s fun, educational, and delicious! It’s also not surprising that there is considerable overlap among people who enjoy gardening at home and searching for edible plants in the woods and prairies. As more people seek out and harvest wild foods, however, it is critical to do so responsibly and sustainably for the protection of biodiversity and the wellbeing of future generations. This article discusses how we can look for inspiration and guidance from our region’s Indigenous peoples and provides resources to forage safely and responsibly. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener For those of us who descended from European settlers, it is common to view gardening and foraging as distinct (albeit food-related) activities - one involves direct cultivation, and the other involves harvesting what mother nature has produced herself. If we consider Indigenous history and experience, however, we see how many “wild” foods have been carefully managed in ways that could and should be considered as “gardening” in the Western sense. 1 Through careful observation and strong norms of stewardship and reciprocity, Indigenous practices such as controlled burns, selective harvesting, and the intentional sowing of seeds in opportune places, led to the development of dynamic ecosystems that supported both human and non-human needs for centuries. 2 In Minnesota, the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples have maintained their own deep and complex relationships with the land and its inhabitants. Both tribes view the land as a living entity, deserving of mutual respect. Ceremonies are often conducted in the harvesting of wild rice and other foods, giving thanks to the earth for its resources and establishing an ethic of responsibility for the ongoing health of individual species and full ecosystems. Modern foragers should adopt this same mindset by approaching the land with humility and gratitude. Wild rice harvesting Selective harvesting is perhaps the most critical practice that aligns with these principles. Indigenous peoples sought to harvest only as much as plant populations would allow, ensuring that enough fruits, seeds, nuts, and fungi persisted as future food sources for humans and nonhumans alike. Careful foraging is not just good manners; it is fully in our own self-interest! Similarly, using all parts of the plant reduces waste and is a demonstration of respect for the lives of all kinds that support our wellbeing. Beyond the moral imperative to forage responsibly, you must be mindful of current rules and regulations that can vary by location and jurisdiction. And, if you are hoping to forage on private property, always secure permission first. In all cases, foraging responsibly requires a certain amount of knowledge of the particular food and an awareness of its surroundings for potential growth or threats. There are a number of great resources available for anyone interested in learning more about specific plants, mushrooms, and other wild foods. Sam Thayer’s Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants is widely considered authoritative and provides a comprehensive introduction to hundreds of species. Kelly Kindscher’s Edible Wild Plants of the Prairie: An Ethnobotanical Guide also includes a great deal of Indigenous history and culture surrounding the use of many familiar (and unfamiliar) plants. As common sense would dictate, unless you are already familiar with a particular species it is absolutely necessary to positively identify what is in front of you and learn how to safely consume it. Ramps - wild onions or leeks Foraging sustainably is more important than ever as our natural resources face the additional increasing pressures of climate change, invasive species, and urban development. In order to promote the health and wellbeing of human and nonhuman worlds, we must honor the enduring wisdom and teachings of the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples. Ethical foraging is more than just a list of rules or practices—it is an ongoing relationship between people and the land that nurtures us. Next time you find yourself moseying for morels or rooting for ramps, I hope you will think of yourself not as someone who has come simply to take and consume, but to garden and grow. 1 An excellent resource to begin learning about these practices is M. Kat Anderson’s Tending the Wild Native American Knowledge and the Management of California's Natural Resources . 2 There has been a great deal of modern research on how, for example, Indigenous peoples intentionally supported the biodiversity and soil quality of the Amazon rainforest, once thought by European colonizers (and perhaps still by some today) to be an untamed wilderness. Photo Credits: public domain (1-3)

< Back Chocolates From Sweet Potatoes Do you love sweet potatoes but have trouble growing them? Well, you’re not alone. Read how Master Gardener Anita Oakman managed to find a way to serve her skinny sweet potatoes that fooled and pleased her sweet potato loving mother-in-law. You might love this recipe, too! Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener I’ve never had much luck with growing sweet potatoes but every spring, hope springs eternal! I was so excited to get my hands on some not-so-readily-available Murasaki slips and a new elevated self-watering planter so I wouldn’t have to dig up my big purple potatoes on my hands and knees. I grabbed a new large bag of soil with compost and planted those slips after all danger of frost had passed. I made sure to keep up on my watering and sometimes even added soluble fertilizer. What a conscientious gardener I was! And what beautiful foliage grew from those slips! I thought for certain that some large, luscious tubers lay below the surface. Well, I was wrong. Again. Those of you who have grown sweet potatoes successfully saw this coming, didn’t you? You saw it from the moment I mentioned “new soil with compost”. And the words “beautiful foliage,” were a dead giveaway. You may have found that they produce well in poor soil , not in compost-happy soil and certainly not in over-fertilized soil. Lesson learned. See if you can detect the difference between my two homegrown Murasakis and the two I picked up at Trader Joe’s. Defeat is not such a bitter pill to swallow, especially when dealing with compostable goods, but I was too emotionally attached to let those skinny little potatoes fade away. I cured them properly and stored them in a cool, dry place. And then Thanksgiving rolled around and brought my mother-in-law, Carolyn, along. Carolyn grew up in farm country and loves her sweet potatoes sweet, with butter and marshmallows. I had unfortunately neglected to pick up any canned candied yams before the stores closed and had to call those Murasakis up from the bullpen. Or rather, the basement. I simply washed and scrubbed them well, poked them with a fork, placed them on a cookie sheet and roasted them with the skins on in a 425 degree oven for 30 minutes. The cooking time was reduced from an hour for normal-sized sweet potatoes, but even a half hour was too long. My potatoes came out too soft and small to even think about peeling, so I chopped them crosswise, poured a little melted butter on them, and into a serving dish they went. Our Thanksgiving dinner was lovely and when it came time to send guests home with leftovers, we asked Carolyn what she wanted. “Oh, I’ll have some smoked turkey and mashed potatoes and some of Anita’s homemade buns,” she said. “And I’d like some of those little chocolates for dessert, too.” With their deep purple color and natural sweetness (and a little assist from the melted butter), my mother-in-law had mistaken the Murasaki sweet potatoes for chocolate pieces. We drove her home happy and well-fed.

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are one of the few crops usually harvested in late fall – late September through late October, depending on your location. Flavor improves with cooler fall weather and they can stay in the garden as long as temperatures remain above 20°F. Read more about how to grow and enjoy this late season vegetable. Julie Harris, Master Gardener As a ‘winter” plant, seeds can be planted indoors in June. They can be hardened off when the seedlings have 3 or 4 leaves (about 3 weeks). They can be planted outdoors about a week later. Direct seeded plants need twice the time to mature as seeds started indoors. You can also plant transplants. Brussels sprouts belong to the Brassica family. They are of the same species as broccoli, cabbage, collard greens, kale, and kohlrabi. Plant brussels sprouts in areas where they, or plants in the same family, have not been planted recently. Brussels sprouts require well-drained but moist soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Plant seeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep every 18 inches; thinning to 1 after they have germinated. Transplanted plants should be placed 18 inches apart. Brussels sprouts must have good soil moisture to mature properly. The amount of water needed will depend on your soil (clay, sandy or loamy) but keep the soil moist. Brussels sprouts plants are tender and you may need to protect them from wind and insects with a lightweight but secure row cover. Mulching is encouraged. Brussels sprouts look like mini cabbages and grow on the stalk of a tall, leafy plant. The sprouts develop where each leaf joins the stem, beginning at the bottom and moving up. Cut off the top 1 or 2 inches of the plant when the lowest sprouts are 1 inch in diameter. This will cause the sprouts at the top to grow also. Harvest brussels sprouts by removing the leaves and cutting the plant off at the ground. Keep the stalks in a cool cellar and harvest the sprouts over a few weeks. They are generally harvested from the stalk when the sprout is 2 inches or less. Sprouts will also keep in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Brussels sprouts are high in nutrients, fiber and vitamins and have a number of health benefits. They are especially rich in vitamin K, which is necessary for blood clotting and bone health. They are also high in vitamin C, which helps promote iron absorption and helps with tissue repair and immune function. What type of Brussel Sprouts should you look for? In recent University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener vegetable trials, the top 3 rated varieties were: Gustus, Hestia, and Diablo. Brussels sprouts can be cooked in many ways but roasting is a common method. They can be frozen or pickled. Reference: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts Photo credits: www.pixels.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (3)

< Back Starting Seeds Indoors If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil but reading this article will help you learn how to grow seeds successfully indoors. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings growing vigorously in a warm humid environment Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket

< Back How to Prepare Your Garden for Young Children Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr, Master Gardener Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Tools for planting and weeding: A little bucket and child sized trowel are perfect for weeding and planting. You can show your child how to dig a hole by putting the dirt into a bucket. Then place the bulb or seedling and pour the dirt back into the hole. Similarly, the set can be used for weeding by digging out the weeds and putting them in the bucket. Don’t forget to show the child where to dump the weeds. Planting seeds: Small children’s fine motor skills are just developing so it’s hard to hold and plant seeds. Putting the seeds in a little cup allows them to securely hold the seeds and choose one to plant. I also find that our daughter steals my kneeling pad, so I have a special little one for her to go get. Watering plants: Choose a little watering can that is small enough for your child to lift and carry independently when full. I like a sprinkle head for outdoor use. If possible, it’s really nice to have a way for your child to fill the watering can on their own as well. Harvesting: Harvest time is the best time! I find that children are likely to at least try the fruit and veggies they plant and harvest. Native strawberries are great ground-cover even in partial shade and provide tons of sweet little berries to pick and eat or freeze for the winter. Have a special little bowl to encourage more collecting and less eating, or collecting and eating. Dining : Don’t forget a sweet little spot to eat your delicious harvest. A Place for Everything and Everything in it’s Place: Have a place to store your child’s gardening supplies that they can reach and access on their own. When we keep this area nicely organized they know how to get their things and can be responsible for putting them away. Let’s be honest, my daughter doesn’t always put her things away on her own, but a consistent set-up will allow her to do this as she matures. We keep out child-sized tools needed for the current season. Here you can see her watering can, dish for seeds, kneeling mat, and gardening tote. The tote includes a child-sized metal trowel, fork, gardening gloves, and bucket. I did not put out the turtle labels that came with the set, and we bought her some better fitting gloves. She truly uses these tools to garden, something plastic and easily breakable would be frustrating. Other seasonal tools might include a rake for leaves in the fall or shovel for snow in the winter. A Children’s Garden: Some children and families enjoy having a designated space for a children’s garden. This can be a place for the child to make all their own choices. I find that children enjoy gardening the whole garden and don’t want to only garden in the children’s area. Little children benefit from quiet moments of independent observation and interaction in the garden. Children love little pathways and other things that make a garden fun like garden art and wind chimes. Consider including elements that are at their level. Gardens can be for playing as well! If children getting dirty stresses you out, have a clean-up plan that the children understand before they get started. We enjoy having a sand box, fairy garden, and swings in our garden as well. I can work while the children do what they enjoy. Photo credits: Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr (1 - 11)

< Back Making Delicious Meals with Hardy Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Master Gardener Joy Johnson is an accomplished vegetable grower but even she struggled this year with the effects of the hot weather and drought on her crops. Still, she offers 4 tried, true and delicious recipes for using the vegetables that were garden champions this year. You will want to read this article for inspiration in the kitchen! It’s the first of August and I’m hoping your garden is flourishing this month. I must tell you, with the drought and the rain and the storms, some of my veggies are doing great and some are struggling along. Gardening is always a gamble, we do our part to plant, weed, fertilize, mulch and water, but sometimes even with all that TLC our veggies might not produce like the seed catalogs promised they would. I consider it a challenge. My garden has thrown down the gauntlet, asking me if I can make something nutritious and delicious with its sometimes-meager offerings. I accept that challenge! Since I like to eat lighter in the summer, I have been focusing on soups and salads. Here are a couple of soup recipes and a colorful salad. The Italian Garden Vegetable Soup is vegetarian and is quick and easy to make. The Zuppa Toscana is my hack of Olive Garden’s soup of the same name. This is a heavier cream-based soup, and makes great use of tons of kale, which you may have in abundance right now! And the Broccoli Slaw is a triumph over critters and heat. This month I also included a Martini drink recipe. My brother and I grow lots of basil and this cocktail that he came up with is a cool, refreshing use of basil. Grapefruit is one my favorite fruits. You can use canned grapefruit juice, but fresh squeezed elevates this cocktail to a gourmet level. Italian Garden Vegetable Soup (makes 6-8 servings) 2 medium zucchinis, sliced 2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced 1 small or medium eggplant, peeled and diced 6 medium tomatoes, diced (whatever variety you grew are fine) 2-4 ears of corn, kernels cut off the cob (steam first, then it’s easier to cut them off) 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups veggie broth (store bought or homemade) 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (dried is fine too. You’ll see I used dried in the photo. My parsley didn’t do well this year, but I have plenty of dried from last year) 1/4-1/2 tsp onion salt Salt and pepper Place all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to steam vegetable in broth for 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper if you’d like. Zuppa Toscana (make 8-10 servings) 1 large white onion diced 1 ½ pounds ground Italian sausage. I have a home blend of venison and spicey Italian port sausage that is quite spicey. You can use a mild Italian sausage or a spicier variety depending on how much heat you want. 7 small red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 1-2 tsp red chili flakes (don’t use this if you use a spicier sausage) 1 pint whipping cream 1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, and leaves chopped Chicken bouillon powder. In a large pot, brown the onion and sausage; drain fat. Add potatoes, broth, water, and chili flakes. Cover pot and bring to a boil for about 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream. Soup will thicken the longer you keep it warm and stirred. Mix kale into hot soup for about the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning with small addition of bouillon, if desired. Cashew Broccoli Slaw (makes 6 servings) I grew tiny cabbages, a couple of red ones and a couple of green ones (lots of insect damage). But you don’t need a lot to make this tasty salad. My broccoli also didn’t produce much. I consider it a triumph that I can use what I grow to make something good regardless of its quantity or quality. Dressing: 1 cup plain yogurt 1/3 cup sugar 1 T apple cider vinegar In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, and vinegar until smooth. Salad: 1 medium sized head of broccoli, washed, peel the stems and chop 1 small head of red cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 small head of green cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 carrot, grated or julienned ¼ cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup raisins or craisins 1 cup cashew pieces, salted Add broccoli, cabbage, green onions and raisins/craisins to the bowl. Fold slaw mixture into dressing until evenly coated. Chill until ready to serve. Toss cashews into the salad right before serving. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 springs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back A Personal Nod to the First Harvest Vegetable, the Honorable Radish The radish is a star of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turn around. It is also great in a salad and even a salsa. But Master Gardener intern Liz Townley, was intrigued with her mother’s practice of eating a radish on buttered white bread – the radish sandwich. She dug deep to find the origins of this practice, before finally trying the radish sandwich herself. Read this entertaining article on the joys of the humble radish sandwich. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The mighty radish is the queen of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turnaround from seed to table! But does it have other star qualities? As a child, I remember watching my mother buttering her bread, slicing some ‘fresh from the garden’ radishes, sprinkling some salt on them and eating them on an open face sandwich! We were aghast! How could she eat a sandwich that didn’t include meat? She offered to make us one and sadly, we turned her down. Now, I have learned to enjoy this early harvest vegetable in homemade salads and yes, even radish salsa (it was actually too hot!). Lately, I felt drawn to give the radish sandwich a try myself. But I was also interested in how the sandwich itself came about. Let’s start with the radish itself. There are 36 to 40 commonly known radishes. The most familiar are the garden radishes ( Raphanus sativus var. radicula ). Garden radishes are known to have a spicy flavor and crisp, juicy texture. And in just 3 to 5 weeks after planting, we can pull out our first radish harvest of the season. But how and why did someone think it was a good idea to plop radishes on a sandwich? Radish sandwich in history In my research, I learned that it is likely that the sandwich was started in Europe and Asia as a simple way to consume an abundance of radishes when the harvest was ready. While there’s no single documented “invention” date for the radish sandwich, its simplicity suggests it evolved from basic bread-and-vegetable traditions . The sandwich’s minimal ingredients—bread, butter, radishes, salt—align with rustic, utilitarian eating styles common in many cultures. In the United States, radishes were popular in the 19th century, with seed companies urging daily consumption. A notable historical example is the Parmesan Radish Sandwich described in The Up-To-Date Sandwich Book (1909), which used only radishes and parmesan cheese. This shows that by the early 20th century, radishes were being used as a sandwich filling in more elaborate ways. Cultural and modern context The sandwich’s popularity today is partly due to its simplicity and adaptability. It’s found in global variations, from German-style butter-and-radish rolls to Asian-inspired bánh mì with pickled radish. Its origins are thus a blend of: Ancient culinary traditions (Egyptian, Greek, Roman) European bread-and-vegetable culture American home-style sandwich evolution in the 19th–20th centuries In short, the radish sandwich’s origins are tied to the long history of radishes themselves and to the global spread of simple, bread-based sandwiches, with its modern form emerging from both culinary heritage and everyday home cooking. Okay, so now it’s my turn to get in on this tradition. I saw many variations of the sandwich – different breads, radish sliced thin or thick, radish pickled, topped with mint, parsley and even peas! radish, edamame, ricotta and greens sandwich; Credit: www.pechluck.com But I decided to try it the traditional way, just like Mom used to make. Normally, I am not a white bread eater, so I selected a well-known brand to up my chances of success. I wouldn’t be able to try the sandwich on my mother’s Holsum Bread (remember their yellow wrappers that ended up in your snow boots?), but I am up the challenge! First, I got the butter to room temperature as to not rip the bread. Then, I cut off the ends of the radish and used a potato/vegetable peeler to cut up my radish. I layered it on the bread, lightly salted it and made my husband try it first! He complied, and thought it was okay, but a little strange to have a vegetable sandwich. radish sandwich with white bread; Credit: www.hellolittlehome.com Then, I tried it. It was great! The smooth butter taste paired nicely with the spicy, crunchy flavor of the radish on the soft white bread and the slight salty taste at the end. Try it for yourself as a snack or as a part of your fancy tea plate. This simple sandwich may become your new spring favorite, too! I only wished I hadn’t waited so long to try my mother’s radish sandwich. Source: University of Minnesota Extension website, Academic library , YouTube , Jacques Pepin Radish Sandwich, Sandwiches of History and Sandwich Tribunal . Photos: Liz Townley

< Back Why are Those Bugs Swarming Around My Front Door? Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the weather is growing cooler, you may be experiencing a mass of bugs swarming your outside walls and doors. As we get prepared for winter, the bugs that don’t die off, survive by burying themselves in the soil, or leaves. But there are a few who want very much to spend the winter inside your home. The “big three” offenders are boxelder bugs, Asian lady beetles, and brown marmorated stinkbugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed on sources in your yard. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. They are especially drawn to the part of your house that gets afternoon sun. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug These bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. While they are not generally harmful, they can be an annoyance. They don’t feed on wood or other building materials and they don’t spread disease to people or pets. However, Asian lady beetles sometimes bite when handled and they, along with the stinkbugs create a bad smell when stressed or crushed. Asian Lady Beetles The best way to manage these bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. Check window screens, broken seals around doors and windows. Don’t forget to look at the seals around wires, pipes, vents, soffits and fascias. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment although targeting these bugs is difficult. As they are not feeding while they are trying to invade your home, pesticides may not work. (Note that any use of pesticides must be done with utmost care as they carry some risk.) Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom or just crushing them. Note that vacuuming won’t kill the bugs, so they should be disposed of outside. These bugs generally do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. They are generally slow moving and can be eliminated fairly easily. In short, these bug invaders are big on the ICK scale but generally can be controlled without causing harm. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/temperatures-fall-home-invading-insects-come-knocking Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), University of Minnesota Extension, Susan Ellis, bugwood.org (2)

< Back What to Do with an Overcrowded Perennial Garden Linda Stein, Master Gardener Are your perennial plants over crowded? Are you planning to rip out a section of your garden to plant new shrubs or plants this year? In certain situations, Dakota County Master Gardeners may be able to help you by harvesting your plants and selling them at our annual Plant Sale in May to support our programs in the county. In the past, most of the plants that were sold in our annual Plant Sale were from member’s gardens or were vegetables and herbs started by our members in a greenhouse. However, we also sell plants harvested from the yards of non-master gardeners. We plan to continue this tradition for our next sale in May 2022, creating teams that will dig out the plants, bare root the plants to avoid the risk of spreading jumping worms, and pot the plants for sale. This is a win-win situation. Your perennials are thinned out and moved, and we can sell the plants to support our programs throughout Dakota County. (Please note that we only have a limited ability to accept hostas and daylilies for this program.) If you would like us to consider digging in your garden in the spring, contact me - lindasternstein@gmail.com . Tell me what types of plants you have. When April comes, I’ll contact you to do a walk through and set up a time to dig in your garden.