< Back County Hosts Seed Collection for Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers Sam Talbot From backyards to boulevards, native plants are popping up throughout Dakota County. The burgeoning interest from homeowners to include prairie species in their gardens, coupled with incentive programs, such as “Lawns to Legumes” -- has created a novel demand for native seeds and how to grow them. In partnership with Dakota County Parks, Master Gardeners are uniquely poised to help bring pocket prairies to local neighborhoods. As the tallgrasses and wildflowers turned to seed in the fall, volunteers and University of Minnesota Extension staff met in the county parks to operationalize those efforts. Sam Talbot, then a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, joined two groups of Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) in late-September to collect native plant seeds from restored prairies at Lebanon Hills and Whitetail Woods Regional Parks. The first group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park’s Equestrian Trailhead and the other, at Whitetail Woods. In each location, the Master Gardeners—Jo Kapke, Pat Peschman, Roger Grabowski, Robert Hatlevig, Kathy Anderson, Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Pat Ramel, Christina Libaire, Mary Beth Kufrin, Sue Light, Margie Blare, Katie Possis, and Marie Stolte—looked out over tall grasses that swayed hypnotically in a stiff wind. Sam explained that they were looking at some of the county’s earliest restored prairies. They were planted when restoration efforts allowed for seed to be sourced throughout the Midwest. Today, the county collects and uses native seeds from its own remnant prairies (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. Since the seeds from these older restored prairies aren’t used as a source for new restorations, DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the Master Gardeners’ free seed library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow. The rest of the seeds were grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the DCMGV May Plant Sale . Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. Free seed library at Farmington Library In the fall, it’s much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. Sam arrived early and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Cup Plant seeds Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. Wild Bergamot seed heads At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he hosted another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” Photo credit: Dakota County Master Gardeners (1,2), flickr.com (3), Courtney Celley/USFMW (4)

< Back Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you a clematis lover? Do you have a fenceline, large arbor or a slope to cover? If so, this article explains why you might want to consider the native clematis Virgin’s Bower. This is a vigorous grower and produces beautiful white flowers that appeal to humans and pollinators. Easy to grow and vigorous once established, this climbing beauty is native throughout the Midwest. It is also known by the names “love vine,” “traveler’s joy,” “wild hops” and “Virginia Virgin’s Bower.” Less complementary monikers include “devil’s darning needles” and “devil’s hair.” One thing to be cautious of when selecting this plant is to not confuse it with its non-native cousin, Sweet Autumn Clematis ( Clematis terniflora ). The latter plant is highly invasive and will run amok! Virgin’s Bower is a pretty good grower in and of itself. So be careful where you plant it, as it can be invasive in a garden setting. vigorous Virgin’s Bower in home landscape Virgin’s Bower self-seeds and will root anywhere a shoot touches the ground. It is hardy through Zone 3 and does best in full sun, although it is tolerant of light shade. Virgin’s Bower is a woody vine that can grow to 8 to 15 feet. It tolerates a range of well-drained soils from moist to dry, clay to sandy. As you might imagine, Virgin’s Bower does best in natural landscapes. It is great for planting along fence lines or on large arbors. It creates a welcome habitat for pollinators in mid-summer and early fall. Virgin’s Bower also does well as a ground cover on any steep slopes you might be trying to cover. Plants are dioecious, being either male or female. So, check with your nursery when you buy, to assure flowering. If you do, you will be treated to a blanket of white flowers in mid-summer into early fall. The female plants form single dry seeds (achenes) in the fall which persist into winter. These silky, plumed seeds are one of the great ornamental assets of the plant. caterpillar on Virgin’s Bower flower in September If you are a clematis lover, as am I, you will find Virgin’s Bower a low maintenance, vigorous yet charming addition to your collection. Photo Credits: Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers (usage authorized) (1), © Mary Free, Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia (usage authorized for educational use) (2-3)

< Back Tomato Harvesting A BLT Lovers Guide to the Picking Process Tom Molitor and Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardeners It’s August in Minnesota, the summer solstice is in the rear-view mirror, the neighborhood is still ringing with the sound of July 4th exploding fireworks, and your backyard garden is also exploding with Cherokee Purples, Red Romas and Green Zebras. If you’re like any other gardener, you’re probably doing one of two things at the moment: staring lovingly at your green vined tomatoes, or aggressively imagining them fully ripe on your kitchen counter. This article has some helpful tips for harvesting tomatoes successfully. The timing may surprise you! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Thanks to the June rain (plus whatever diligent watering you've managed to keep up with), those tomato plants are filled with fruit, the finish line is finally in sight, and maybe, just maybe, you’ve already experienced that early-summer joy of plucking the first, sun-warmed cherry tomato of the season and eating it right there, dirt and all. But here is where we backyard growers can get nervous. This is Minnesota. Our weather loves to throw curveballs, and waiting too long to harvest means losing our hard work to such things as sudden hailstorms (yes, it’s a thing), persistent pests, or even an early autumn frost. Harvesting your tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavor and prevents loss to pests or extreme weather. When trying to get perfect flavor while protecting your harvest, one logical trick is to ripen tomatoes indoors without sacrificing taste by picking fruits when they reach their mature size and begin changing color (the "breaker stage"). Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to leave your tomatoes on the vine until they are fully red. In fact, pulling them a little early is often the smartest move you can make. For that perfect tomato, let’s talk about picking (the When and the How), along with post-harvest secrets of the storage process. When to Pick The Breaker Stage: The ideal time to harvest is when the tomato is blushing (about 30% to 40% full color). Once they reach this stage, they are as sweet as they will ever be. Hot or Wet Weather: If you are expecting a heatwave (over 90 degrees Fahrenheit) or heavy rain, pick blushing tomatoes immediately. This prevents sunscald and splitting. Firmness: Gently squeeze the tomato. It should feel firm with just a slight, soft give. Photo Credit: www.ruralsprout.com How to Pick Do Not Pull: Pulling the fruit can damage the main stem and invite disease. Use Pruners: Ideally use sharp bypass pruners or scissors to clip the stem about 1–2 inches above the fruit. This allows the small green cap (calyx) to stay on the fruit, prolonging its freshness. Handle Gently: Tomatoes bruise easily, so place them in a single layer in a basket or tray. Harvest Process Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to place tomatoes. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade and should not be used. Clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) are recommended when picking tomatoes of any size or color. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing tomatoes into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce. Discard tomatoes that have signs of nibbling, and or have visible animal feces on them. Post-Harvest & Storage Ripening Indoors: Leave partially colored tomatoes on your kitchen counter. Cover them loosely with a tea towel. One way to speed the process naturally, is to place a ripe banana or apple nearby. Important Storage Warnings: It is not a good practice to place fresh tomatoes in the refrigerator. Temperatures below 55°F ruin the texture, leaving the flesh mealy and flavorless. We have such a short growing season in Minnesota we want to be ready to harvest tomatoes, for a multitude of uses such as: Sauces & soups Salads & salsas: e.g. caprese salads, bruschetta, and gazpacho; Sandwiches & toppings (BLT-the greatest sandwich) Preserves-jams jellies and Skincare: Tomato extracts are naturally rich in vitamin C and are frequently used in home remedies to brighten skin and reduce dark spots. No matter which of these are your reasons to grow tomatoes, our common goal is a productive growing season and a great harvest. For a clear visual demonstration of the perfect time to pick and how to harvest without damaging the plant see these videos: video 1 , video 2 (1, 2). The resources below also include a brief description of tomato problems including pests (3) and more on growing and harvesting vegetables in your garden (4). These last two resources are University of Minnesota Master Gardener articles. In addition, there is a fascinating article from a Master Gardener from the University of Vermont on the History of the Tomato (5). Who knew tomatoes originated from the Aztecs? You have worked hard to produce beautiful, delicious tomatoes in your garden. Complete the process by smart harvesting and storage techniques. Then – enjoy! Photo Credit: www.clamorworld.com Resources. The Perfect time to harvest a tomato. Joe Gardener https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LedqNa6g80k ; Harvesting Tomatoes . Penn State Extension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-koSjUj7kU ; Tomato Problems : Janice Gestner, Master Gardener | DCMGV Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/bythemonth/tips-for-safely-growing-and-harvesting-vegetables-and-fruit-in-your-garden ; A History of Tomatoes | University of Vermont Homegrown tomatoes by John Denver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwRn7A-TWrQ ;

< Back Butternut Squash – The Best Flavor of All Winter Squash? December marks the beginning of winter – the time of year when winter squash seems like just the right vegetable to enjoy. Butternut squash is often described as having the best flavor of all winter squash. After you enjoy eating butternut squash this winter, you will want to grow some of your own next spring. Read on to learn how to grow butternut squash successfully. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener How to Grow Butternut squash Soil is the first consideration when growing vegetables. It is always a good idea to start with having your soil tested. The University of Minnesota has a testing service than can be accessed here . For best yield and quality, the soil pH range for vine crops is between 6.0 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. Raised beds are recommended as they ensure good drainage. You can seed vine crops directly into the garden, but they need warm soils of about 65°tested at 2” down. Follow directions on the butternut squash seed package for seed depth and row spacing. To start your butternut squash inside, plant seeds in pots or cells at least two inches wide and deep. Seedlings take about four weeks from seeding to planting out. They need two to three true leaves before transplanting. Harden off seedlings started indoors before planting them in soil that is at least 65°F Read more about starting seeds indoors at this University of Minnesota Extension website. Now that your squash is in the ground, they need at least one inch of water each week. Trellised plants may require watering more often. Water deeply by using a drip hose, soaker hose or careful watering of the soil making sure to keep the leaves dry. Poor fruit set and tasteless fruit can be due to rainy, cloudy or cold weather, when pollinators are not active. Heavy rainfalls can lead to oedema, which causes scabby, raised bumps on the fruit. If you want to use mulch, such as straw or compost to control weeds, wait until the soil is at least 75°F because the mulch can inhibit further warming. When the vines start to spread out, side dress with high-nitrogen fertilizer. Consult your soil test for amounts. The first blossoms often drop from the vines. This is not a problem, since the first blossoms are male, the female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base called the ovary. After pollination, the fruit develops. After your butternut squash is ripe, pick it before a hard freeze for best results. A light frost that kills the vine will usually not harm the fruit. Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Be careful not to cut or bruise the fruit. After cutting squash from the vines, you should “field-cure” them in place for a week or two in dry, sunny weather. This dries and toughens the skin for longer storage. If the weather becomes cold or rainy, cure the squash indoors in a well-ventilated, warm (80°F) place. Storage Winter squash should be stored in a cool (55°F) place, with good air movement. If you don’t have a good place to store them, you can freeze mashed squash, dry slices in a dehydrator, or can it. Check this site for more information about preserving winter squash. Butternut squash can be made into many dishes, from soups to roasted or candied cubes. Check out our Garden to Kitchen article this month for a mouth-watering squash recipe. Bon appétit! Photo and Drawing Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,3)

< Back Best Time to Prune Trees Faith Appelquist, Master Gardener Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. If it is between opening up a wound to heat or opening to the cold, opening the wound to the cold is best. Optimally, the perfect window would be past February and into March. The chance of frostbite on the sensitive cambium is less, and the sap is not rising. When certain species are trimmed during the growing season, such as American Elms or Oaks, pheromones (scents) are given off at the wound, attracting insects that can carry fungus on their bodies that can infect these trees. These trees are best pruned in the fall or early spring. Deadwood should be pruned anytime because it is a health and safety issue. Deadwood is food for decay organisms and the quicker it is removed from a tree the sooner it can start closing the wound and preventing the spread of decay. If the tree was planted for its spring flowers, such as magnolia, dogwood, crabapple, you will want to wait until after it has flowered to prune. Otherwise you prune flower buds off and reduce the abundance of flowers that spring. For certain species such as maples and birches, I would trim these in the summer to minimize sap oozing or ‘bleeding’. Pruning during full leaf is fine, but dormant season is probably still best for tree health.

< Back Do All Bees Sting? Lisa Olson, Master Gardener On one hand, a gardener’s tiny friend, the bee, is usually a docile doer of good, buzzing around from plant to plant, pollinating to provide a bountiful harvest in the future. On the other hand, many fear the small insect with the mighty sting. But do all bees sting? If you are curious, click on the link to learn more about our little friend, the bee. Bumblebee Do all bees sting? The short answer is no. But some bees do sting, and they also get blamed for more than their fair share. Many people mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees.” Hornets and wasps are typically more aggressive than their rounder, fuzzier relative, the bee. Bees are pretty tolerant of humans unless they feel provoked or threatened. They will sting to protect their nest or hive, but they are generally not a threat to people if they are left alone. In fact, when bees are busy flying from flower to flower collecting nectar and pollen, you can safely observe them without fear of being stung. However, since about 80 percent of bee species nest in the ground, it is not surprising that many bee stings occur when someone unknowingly steps on a nest. Ground Nest Certain bees are not capable of stinging. Only female bees have a stinger which is a modified egg laying apparatus. Male bees are not equipped with that part and therefore are unable to sting. Not every sting is equal among all female bees. While the social bumblebee and honeybee sting can be quite painful, the sting of most solitary native bees is similar to a pinprick. Of the nearly 20,000 known bee species in the world, about 400 of them live in Minnesota. Only about 2% of those are honeybees and bumblebees, including the state bee of Minnesota, the rusty patched bumblebee. The other 98% are mostly solitary bees like the mason and leafcutter bees. Rusty Patched Bumblebee While some bees are not capable of stinging at all, the female bumblebee, along with its relatives the yellow jacket and paper wasp, can sting multiple times. Its stinger is smooth so that it can remove it and re-inject it multiple times. The honeybee, on the other hand, has a barbed stinger. Once its stinger penetrates human skin, it becomes lodged and cannot be removed. When it flies away, the stinger stays behind, and the honeybee will die shortly afterward from the hole left in its abdomen. If that occurs, the sting victim should immediately scratch out the stinger with a fingernail rather than grasping it with two fingers to prevent squeezing more venom into the wound. A very small portion of the population is allergic to bee or wasp venom. While a person is more likely to die from being struck by lightning than stung by a bee, an average of 62 people die each year in the United States from a bee, wasp, or hornet sting according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Since you can’t just hang around male bees, in order to avoid being stung, you can take the following precautions: Stay calm. Don’t swat at bees. Just remain calm and slowly walk away. Wear shoes outside. Stepping on a nest is the most common way to get stung. Plant flowers away from your doors. Reduce the risk of a negative encounter by planting pollinator habitat away from high traffic areas. Beekeepers wear white for a reason. If you don’t look or smell like a brightly colored flower, bees are less likely to bother you. Just watch, don’t touch. If you leave them alone, they will leave you alone. Bees are excellent neighbors and extremely beneficial to us. Pollinators are responsible for about one third of the food we eat. The best thing we can do, as with all wildlife, is to respect it by keeping our distance. That way we don't have to worry whether it is a stinging bee or not. And last of all, by providing more pollinator friendly habitat, we can ensure a healthy, happy bee population for the future. https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees#reactions-to-stings-1465111 https://mphysicians.org/news/2022/07/20/buzz-sting-ow-dealing-wasp-or-bee-stings-11076 https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/68/wr/mm6829a5.htm https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator.org/assets/generalFiles/NAPPC.NoFear.brochFINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=About%2080%20percent%20of%20bee,over%20the%20nests%20of%20others . https://beelab.umn.edu/Native-Bee/diversity https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2020-03/Planting%20for%20Pollinators%20Design%20Guide%20with%20logos.pdf Photo Credit: University of Minnesota (1,2,3,4)

< Back Canada Anemone, A Hardy Native Groundcover James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Looking for a low maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover? Consider the native Canada Anemone. If you have a difficult slope that never grows grass, a clay or sandy patch that defies seeding with bluegrass or fescue, consider the Canada anemone. Anemone canadensis is otherwise known as meadow anemone, crowfoot or round leaf anemone. It’s a tough guy, found native throughout the Upper Midwest, most commonly on river banks, flood plains or low moist meadows. It provides an excellent groundcover in medium to moist soils. Although it will self-seed, it spreads primarily by rhizomes. This it does rapidly and will form good coverage in two growing seasons with proper conditions. As it is a vigorous grower, it can muscle out other low growing plants unless managed. If you need to contain this anemone, garden edging that goes 6 to 8 inches into the ground should do the trick. Once established, its attractive bright green foliage is graced with lovely white flowers in May, June and early July. The plant’s height usually is less than one foot and it can be mowed lower. It does well in full sun to partial shade. It seems that the cooler the environment, the more sun it will tolerate. Canada anemone settles in nicely in a variety of clay, sand or loam soils. It is hardy to Zone 3 through 6 to 7 although it prefers the cooler, more northern climes. Drier soils and hotter temperatures further south than central Illinois can be a problem. The plant’s name derives from Greek mythology. The nymph Anemone, like the plant, was quite a looker. She attracted the devoted attentions of the God of the West Wind, Zephyr. Unfortunately for all concerned, Zephyr was married to Chloris or in Roman nomenclature, Flora the goddess of flowers and springtime. Needless to say, Flora was miffed at Zephyr’s philandering. She terminated the relationship by turning Anemone into the eponymous flower. Ancient Greece being the strongly patriarchal society that it was, legend is silent as to how Zephyr fared. Like Zephyr, you would be well advised to exercise circumspection in your choices. In selecting ground covers most nurseries offer a variety of aggressive Asian or European imports, commonly Vinca minor or periwinkle. Vinca like so many other non-natives can escape cultivation and invade natural areas. Although Canada anemone is also a hardy grower it strikes a balance in the wild and coexists with other native species in a balanced ecology. Another significant benefit of planting a native such as Anemone canadensis rather than an import is Anemone’s contribution to pollinators. The flowers offer both abundant nectar and nutrient-rich pollen. Vinca , in contrast provides little attraction to native pollinators. For a low-maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover you could do well to consider the native Canada anemone. Photo credits: US Forest Service (1, 2)

< Back Trifecta of Small Fruits Ride along with Margie Blare as she provides winning advice about how to grow “small fruits” - strawberries, raspberries and blueberries - in an entertaining, tongue-in-cheek style. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Excitement at the Garden Track! Learn how to beat the odds and win the small fruits (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries) race in your garden. 1st race: Maiden Race - Track Prep All tracks need full sun, good drainage and air circulation. Test soils before planting. Soil pH needs: Strawberry needs a soil pH of 6-7.0 Raspberry needs 5.5-6.5 pH Blueberry needs 4.0-5.0 pH 2nd race: Planting Stakes Race 3rd race: Maintenance Claiming Race 4th race: The Harvest Home Derby Strawberry out of Hija X Deckard (0.5” to 6”) Jockeys: Ever Bearing (spring and fall harvest), June Bearing (spring harvest) and Day Neutral (all season). Racing strategies: Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Plant new crowns above soil level 12-18” apart. Runners should be pruned; leave enough daughter plants to replace diseased, non-productive crowns or plants older than four. Change track location every 4 years to stop build-up of diseases and insects. Renovate the bed after harvest. New leaves will re-grow quickly. Remove last year's mulch, add fresh mulch. Strawberry wins The Harvest Home Derby around 2-4 years-old. Refrigerate if not using immediately. Discard berries that are bird/insect damaged or diseased. Raspberry out of Hedgehog X Shillelagh (2'-5') Jockeys: Primocane Fall-Bearing (fall harvest),and Floricane Ever-Bearing (spring and fall harvest). Racing strategies: Raspberries need to be cross-tied in order to win the Harvest Home Derby. Posts and wires work well. In early spring, plant red and yellow raspberries about 2-3' apart, spreading the roots. Rows wider than 12” impede harvesting. Black and purple raspberries form 'hills' with primocanes sprouting from the crown. Plant in rows four feet apart. Feed Raspberry frequently. Annual pruning increases productivity and reduces disease. 2-3” of mulch controls weeds and conserves moisture. Mosquito netting can exclude pests, but can also exclude pollinators. Use support and pruning to control the spread of black and purple varieties; when arching canes touch the ground, they root. At two years, Raspberry will win The Home Harvest Derby as the berries develop full color. Raspberry keeps 2-3 days in the refrigerator. Pick berries daily, with clean hands; afterward, pick all uneatable berries and dispose of them. Blueberry out of Boreal X Peewee (4”-12') Jockeys: Northern Highbush (up to 12'), Half-bush (3-4'), Low bush (2-3'), Dwarf (1-2') Racing Strategies: Add amendments before planting. Use a raised bed or 'hill' your Blueberry. Blueberry needs a pollinator of a different variety to win the Harvest Home Derby. Dig a hole twice the size of the pots your blueberries came in. Loosen the roots and spread as much as possible. Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Roots are shallow; keep the water bucket handy! Acidify your water with 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Mulch to retain moisture; keeping it 6” away from the trunks. Replace mulch annually to control diseases. Animals can be excluded with appropriate height fencing. Insects and birds can be mostly excluded with mosquito netting, (except during flowering). Blueberries can be early, mid or late season producers. Blueberry will start winning races in 2-4 years. He wins The Harvest Home Derby by year. He may take 8 years to reach full maturity. For more information on growing these and other fruits go to the University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden website and search “Growing [insert fruit] in the Home Garden.” Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1) & University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Susan Light, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Our state bee, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombas affinis) is disappearing just as we are getting to know it. Historically, the rusty patched bumble bee was broadly distributed across the eastern United States and upper midwest, as well as in southern Quebec and Ontario Canada. In 2017 the federal government listed it as endangered because their numbers had dramatically declined. There are still pockets of the rusty patched bee in Minnesota and Wisconsin and a few other states. There have been a good number of them reported by citizen scientists in and around the Twin Cities since they were listed as endangered. August and September is a good time to look for the rusty patched foraging worker bees. The exact cause of the decline is unknown, but evidence suggests an interaction between an introduced pathogen and exposure to pesticides, specifically insecticides and fungicides. Habitat loss and degradation also play an important role. As bumble bee habitats become increasingly fragmented due to urban development, the size of each population diminishes and inbreeding becomes more prevalent. Inbred populations of bumble bees show decreased genetic diversity and increased risk of decline. The rusty patched bumble bee is a social species with an annual cycle that starts in early spring when colonies are initiated by solitary queens that emerge from overwintering sites. The queen bee is the only bee that survives the winter. The cycle progresses with the production of workers throughout the summer, and ends with the production of males and new queens in late summer and early fall. Survival of the rusty patched bee and other bumble bee species require food (pollen and nectar) from abundant floral resources from April through October, undisturbed nesting habitat near floral resources and overwintering habitat for the next year’s queens. Two features distinguish the rusty patched bumble from other bumble bees: The rusty patched has a rust or brown or orange colored patch on the second segment of the abdomen going about halfway back. The hairs on the first segment are yellow. The other segments are covered with black hair. The hairs on the thorax of the rusty patched are yellow with a T-shaped area of black hairs. The rusty patched bumble bee is unique among North American bumble bees in that the queens have a different color pattern than the workers. The queens, which are usually only seen in the spring and fall, do not have a rusty patch or a black thumb-tack on their thorax. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service finalized the recovery plan for the rusty patched bumble bee in 2021. Recovery and conservation of this bumble bee isn’t possible without partners. Municipalities and private property owners play a crucial role in conservation efforts. You can play an important role. Provide habitat - Rusty patched bumble bee nests are typically 1 to 4 feet underground in abandoned rodent nests or other mammal burrows. Leave some small areas in your yard bare for the queen bees to start their nest in the spring. Don’t use pesticides if you want to encourage bumble bees to nest in your yard. Plan your garden to provide a diversity of native plants so you will have flowers that bloom during spring, summer and fall. For example, In the spring, the queen bee emerges to look for nectar and pollen from flowers like virginia bluebells, blood root, wild geraniums, golden alexander and pussy willow. She will search for a nest close to a diversity of food resources. Some summer flowering plants that support rusty patched workers are large beardtongue, slender beardtongue, hyssop, spiderwort, figwort, and butterfly milkweed. In the fall, the star flowers are goldenrods and asters. For more information on this endangered bee and other Minnesota native bees, go to the terrific new website bees mn.org There you will find close up photos of all the MN native bees, to help you ID them in your yard or nearby park. You’ll learn about the flowers they use, their nests, and life cycles. You can also find out how you can be involved in the MN State Bee conservation initiatives. Photo Credits : iNaturalist (1), www.fws.gov (2), University of Minnesota BeeLab (3)

< Back Water Smarter, Not Harder In the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” it’s hard to believe that some areas of Minnesota may experience shortages of clean water by the end of this decade. Pollution caused by increased population - along with climate change - make water even more precious. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. This article explains how you can be help to protect our water supply. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener You may be wondering why we need to worry about water since we live in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” but even here, fresh, drinkable water is a precious commodity and requires energy to clean it. According to the Minnesota Technical Assistance Program , “the wastewater and water treatment sectors account for as much as 3% of electricity use in the U.S. nationwide.” Since it is always there, like a reliable friend, every time we turn on the faucet, it is easy to take this precious resource for granted. In times of drought, even here in Minnesota, the population can deplete aquifers faster than they can be replenished. It is time to appreciate water and learn how to use it more wisely and efficiently - water smarter. Established Lawn and Gardens Water your lawn deeply, but less often. Typical, healthy Kentucky bluegrass lawns, common in Minnesota, need about an inch of water each week, maybe less depending on your soil and conditions. If you have been quick to turn on your sprinkler, the roots of your grass may be very shallow. By letting the soil dry out down to about a 6-inch depth, you can encourage deeper root growth and a more drought tolerant lawn. As Michigan State University reminds us, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested so you can amend it if necessary. Also, check for compactness to make sure the water you are applying can penetrate the ground. By being familiar with what you have, you are better able to meet the needs of your particular lawn, enabling you to make adjustments to the soil so that your watering techniques can be most effective. If you have a built-in sprinkler system, you may be tempted to just set it and forget it, perhaps programmed to match your city’s watering restriction schedule. ( https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/water-saving-strategies-home-lawns .) Don’t fall into that category of un-smart waterers! First, set out containers in different locations in your yard to catch the water being supplied by your sprinkler system to educate yourself on how much water you are actually giving your grass. Second, water in the morning before the heat of the day so you don’t lose a lot of water to evaporation. Winds are usually calmer first thing in the morning as well, and morning watering gives the blades a chance to dry off throughout the day to avoid providing a breeding ground for diseases to develop under wet, dark conditions that could occur if you water at night. If you do have a sprinkler system, check into rebates that may be provided by your municipality to residents who install soil moisture sensors. The sensors can be placed into the ground and set to prevent the sprinkler from running if the soil is still damp down to 6 inches below the surface. One other thing you can do to minimize frequent watering of your lawn, is to let it grow to a height of at least 3 inches. The longer stems will shade the roots to prevent drying out too quickly, while at the same time hamper weed growth in the thick, healthy lawn. Auditing Sprinkler System Similar to your lawn, a morning drink of water for your flower and vegetable gardens is a good idea. Watering the plants at their bases is another way to prevent water from sitting on the leaves which could lead to a breeding ground for molds and diseases to take hold. Soaker hoses are ideal for the garden setting to keep water off the leaves. To go the extra mile to conserve water, capturing rainwater in a barrel and reusing it to water your gardens is another smart watering idea. New Lawn and Gardens If you are starting with a blank canvas, preparing to put in a new lawn or garden, you have the opportunity to make some intentional choices during the planning stages that will set you up for success as a smart waterer. As far as lawns goes, while Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice because it has the ability to go dormant during dry spells, do some research about other winter-hardy, drought-tolerant grasses that require little or no watering. You may find a low maintenance lawn that not only requires minimal watering, it may have the added benefit of supporting pollinators. In your gardens, group together plants that have similar watering needs so you can water efficiently only where needed. ( http://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SPU/EnvironmentConservation/SmartWatering.pdf .) When you are making your plant selections for your flower gardens, it is wise whenever possible to choose native plants. Native plants are much more likely to require less water. Remember, they were here before we were and survived without us watering them. Unfortunately, we cannot plant and just forget about them. Depending on soil and runoff conditions, native plants will still need some minimal attention. Want to boost your watering smarts I.Q. even higher? Whether your garden is established or new, applying mulch around your plants in late spring after the soil has warmed will prevent the soil from drying out too quickly. As an added bonus, it will free up your time from having to pull weeds as it acts as a weed barrier. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. If there are youngsters in your life, you can use resources like the Minnesota DNR where you can find fun games to help educate them so we can continue to have fresh, clean water for future generations. Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1,3) & University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Give Dandelion Another Chance Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener Not just a weed – dandelion is an edible plant worth your consideration as a culinary addition. Although, most of us spend time and products on eliminating dandelions from our yards, the truth is that dandelion is edible (so long as they have not been subjected to toxic chemicals) and can provide a tasty delight for your table. Read this article to learn more about edible dandelions and how you might enjoy them. Dandelion ( Taraxacum officinale ) is an indigenous plant native to the Midwest that has been used by Native American tribes for centuries. This versatile and nutritious herb is often overlooked as a “weed,” but it offers numerous culinary and medicinal benefits. Dandelions are herbaceous perennial plants characterized by their rosette of dark green leaves that can grow up to 12 inches long. The plant features one or more hollow, flowering stalks that can reach up to 15 inches in height. The bright yellow flowers are a common sight in disturbed areas such as lawns and roadside ditches. One of the most appealing aspects of dandelions is that all parts of the plant are edible and can be harvested throughout the year. The leaves are best collected in spring, while flowers and stems are ideal for harvesting in summer. The roots are typically gathered in fall. These parts can be used fresh, dried, or blanched and frozen for later use. Of course, when foraging for dandelions, it's crucial to avoid areas that may have been recently treated with pesticides or herbicides. Always ensure you're collecting from clean, unpolluted areas. Dandelions are particularly valued for their liver health benefits. They are rich in vitamins and minerals, making them a nutritious addition to various dishes. Here are two recipes that showcase the culinary potential of dandelions. Dandelion Greens Dandelion Greens Salad Ingredients: • 4 cups young dandelion leaves, washed and torn • 1/4 cup red onion, thinly sliced • 1/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar • 1 teaspoon honey • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • In a large bowl, combine dandelion leaves, red onion, and cherry tomatoes. • In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, apple cider vinegar, and honey. • Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat evenly. • Season with salt and pepper to taste. • Serve immediately and enjoy the fresh, slightly bitter flavor of the dandelion greens. Sautéed Dandelion Roots Ingredients: • 2 cups dandelion roots, cleaned and sliced • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. • Add minced garlic and sauté for 1 minute until fragrant. • Add sliced dandelion roots and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender • Drizzle with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. • Serve as a side dish or add to soups and stews for extra flavor and nutrition. Dandelions offer a sustainable and nutritious food source that connects us to the indigenous wisdom of the Midwest. By incorporating this often-overlooked plant into our diets, we can enjoy its health benefits while honoring the traditional knowledge of Native American tribes. Below are additional resources from the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/can-i-eat-weeds-my-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/weeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), fwww.foodista.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Dividing Bearded Iris Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Your spectacular bearded iris have finished blooming. What do you to keep them coming back just as gorgeous next year? Irises need to be divided every 2 to 5 years in order to maintain full, healthy blooms and avoid insects such as the iris borer or diseases such as soft rot. The good news is that it is relatively easy to do! The night before, water the iris to insure moist soil when digging them up. And decide where you are going to put the extra bulbs in your garden after you do divide them. Remember that iris prefer well drained soil and full sun. Use a shovel/pitch fork to dig around the iris being careful to lift clumps while maintaining roots attached to the rhizomes. Gently remove soil from the rhizomes. You can use a garden hose if necessary. Divide the iris rhizomes with a pruning shears or a sharp knife using natural divisions. Make sure that you include part of the rhizome, some roots, and a fan of leaves. Cut the foliage back approximately 6 inches. If the foliage is yellow or you see dark streaks, inspect for iris borer and either discard those rhizomes with the borer or if limited damage, eliminate the borers and save the rhizomes being careful to cut out any damaged parts. Disinfect the cutting tools between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Remove any older spongy growth. To prevent infection, the rhizome can be soaked for about half an hour in a 10% bleach solution, if desired. They can also be treated with sulfur dust or an insecticide/fungicide if pest problems are severe. These steps are usually not needed. Soaked rhizomes, however, would need to dry in a shady place prior to re-planting. It is also recommended that you allow the cut rhizomes to cure for a few hours before replanting in a cool place. When replanting, give the rhizomes space to grow by planting 12 to 18 inches apart. Make sure the rhizome is planted shallowly on a mound and just cover the rhizome. Avoid planting too deeply. Iris are often planted in groups of three arranged in a triangle, with each fan of leaves pointing away from the other irises in the group. Additional information and step by step pictures are provided on the following websites: Dividing Bearded Iris or Divide Peonies and Iris in August. Photo credits: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3)