< Back Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Jo Kapke, Master Gardener Cover crops are generally something home gardeners think of as being used only in large-scale growing operations—or don’t think of at all! However, the benefits of cover crop usage should entice home gardeners to experiment with them. Oat - Radish Cover crops are beneficial in many ways. They start by serving as a green mulch in your garden - they aid in weed suppression and erosion prevention. In large-scale operations cover crops are often used in walkways or as forage for animals. Some varieties of cover crops attract pollinators to the garden when they flower. Finally, and maybe most importantly, cover crops help with the health of your soil. Legume cover crops such as peas, vetch or clover fix nitrogen in the soil. The living roots of cover crops help maintain soil moisture, hold onto nutrients and support soil microorganisms. When the cover crop is eventually worked into the soil as a green manure, it further supports soil health by adding nutrients as the plant material decomposes. Red clover at the USDA NRCS Plant Material Center. The most daunting part of experimenting with cover crops is choosing the type of crop to use. The type of cover crop you plant depends on when you can plant it and what you are trying to achieve with the crop - nitrogen fixation, weed suppression, etc. Cover crops can be planted in spring (before warm-weather crops are planted), between plantings and after harvest. A winter-kill cover crop planted in the fall is recommended if you are trying cover crops in your home garden for the first time. Examples of cover crops that will die over winter are: buckwheat, oats, peas, berseem clover and tillage radish. General cover crop tips Cover crop seeds can be found at garden centers or online seed retailers. Plant cover crop seed densely; smaller areas can be planted by hand. Follow good crop rotation practices with cover crops. For example, don’t plant tillage radish in an area where other brassicas were harvested or will be planted the following spring. Mow or cut down flowering cover crops to prevent them from self-seeding. Dead plant material can be turned over in the spring or fall. If plant material doesn’t die over winter, wait 2-3 weeks after turning over the green material before planting new seeds or transplants. The Midwest Cover Crops Council has a fabulous tool designed for large-scale growers that can also be used by home gardeners. It includes detailed information on many varieties of cover crops. Cover Crop Decision Tool For more information about cover crops in Minnesota, visit: https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back American Smoketree - An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, MG Jim Lakin continues his series on smaller understory native trees with an article on the American Smoketree. This beautiful specimen can be pruned to be a small tree or large bush. It features stunning “smoke-like” clusters of flowers from which its name is derived. Read Jim’s article to learn more about this stunning specimen tree for your yard. We’ve been talking about smaller understory native trees over the winter, and the American Smoketree ( Cotinus obovatus) is a stunning conclusion to our little survey. This gorgeous small tree is sometimes called Chittamwood but by any name, it is native to the prairie covered limestone hillsides of southeastern Texas, extending up into the Ozarks, as well as the Smoky Mountains of eastern Tennessee and down into Alabama. It is a member of the Anacardaceae family, making it a cousin to the cashews and sumacs. In spite of its Southern roots, it is fully cold hardy through USDA zone 4. So, it should be a good bet for central and southern Minnesota as well as the Red River Valley. Sheltered areas up the near North Shore would also be suitable. You should look for well-drained soil and full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct light) when selecting a spot. It will tolerate partial sun (4 to 6 hours) but may grumble a bit. It will grow pretty easily and quickly from seed and transplants easily as it has a shallow, fibrous root system. That makes growing Smoketree from seed a good winter project if you are aiming for a grove of them! Smoketree showing its spring “smoke” Smoketree really is a landscaping asset if you have a hot, west-facing area on your lot. It grows well on exposed limestone and gravelly sites. So, if you have one of these difficult areas, by all means give Smoketree a go. Water well the first year or two and it will be happy thereafter. It seems to be remarkably free of disease or pest problems and once established requires little care. It usually attains a height of 20 to 30 feet with a width of 10 to 20 feet when mature. This beauty produces silky clusters of flowers in the spring that develop into feathery seeds. The seeds look like small clouds of smoke hovering over the leaves in the late spring and summer, giving Cotinus obovatus its common name. These leaves are rounded (obovate), 2 to 5 inches and of a greenish blue, almost steely color. In fall they turn a brilliant yellow to orange to fiery red. It’s quite a show. The bark is grayish brown and will break into scaly plates as the tree ages. That in itself is a point of interest after leaf fall. Smoketree in the fall There are a couple of common cultivars in the trade although they may be difficult to locate. The first is Cotton Candy™ American Smoketree Cotinus obovatus “NorthStar”. As the name implies it is hardy to zone 3. The other is Grace Smoketree ( Cotinus ‘Grace’). This is a hybrid of Cotinus obovatus and Cotinus coggygria . The latter is a Eurasian species which introduces some pest problems. You may encounter leaf spot, rust and verticillium wilt. Die back in severe winters can be a problem. It boasts large pink flowers in the spring and can be pruned either as a small tree or large shrub of some 15 to 20 feet. So, if you want to try one of these fancy hybrids, you may sacrifice hardiness for showiness. I think though, that sticking with the true native Cotinus obovatus will provide ample rewards over many disease-free years. Photo Credit: University of North Carolina (1), North Carolina State University (2)

< Back Manure – A Cautionary Tale Manure can benefit your garden in many ways but it also has negative consequences if used improperly. Read this article to learn how to use manure to reap its benefits without hurting your soil or plants. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Gardening can take a toil on soil, as plants pull vital nutrients for growth and production of flowers, vegetables, and fruit. Another important factor to growing plants is the soil structure. You can address both soil structure and nutrient-deficiencies needed to maintain or even increase the ability to grow vigorous plants by adding manure. Manure is the waste products of animals and has many benefits. However, there are a number of cautions you need to be aware of before just dumping manure on your garden. Manure increases soil organic matter, which can help improve soil structure. Manure also helps improve sandy soil’s ability to hold water and drainage in clay soil. It slowly releases nutrients into the soil and can promote beneficial soil organisms’ growth ( Compost and soil organic matter: the more, the merrier? , Penn State Extension ). Acceptable types of manure for use in vegetable gardens include cow, horse, sheep, goat, llama, rabbit, and chicken/poultry. There are some additional precautions to take if you are going to use chicken/poultry manure that will be discussed later in this article. ( Using chicken manure, UMN-Extension ). Rabbit manure is a great source of manure, 'bunny honey' . Pig, dog, cat, and human waste should NEVER be used in gardens as they are more likely to contain parasites. Use of manure in gardens does require precautions, especially where and when you use fresh or ‘raw’ manure. The biggest risk is that fresh manure may include bacteria and other pathogens that can cause diseases in humans such as e.Coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter bacteria, and others. You can’t determine if an animal may be carrying a pathogen by looking at them or their waste. For this reason, it is critical to not use fresh manure around vegetables as these pathogens can be taken up into vegetable plant tissue through the soil and water. Rabbit manure is the exception because of its pelletized form and low risk of pathogens. If fresh manure is applied to areas where food is grown, nothing should be planted in that location for at least four (4) months for any food product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles. If the food product does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles, then the timeframe is 90 days. ( USDA Organic Tipsheet: Manure in Organic Production Systems ). That means that you should not apply manure in the spring before planting unless you are only going to be planting late summer crops for fall harvest. ( Safely Using Manure, UW-Extension, Using Manure in the Home Garden, UW-Extension ). Early fall may be the best time for manure application. As noted above rabbit manure is the exception. It may be used ‘fresh’ and has many benefits over other types of manure including having four times the nutrients of horse and cow manure and twice the amount of chicken manure. Well composted chicken litter The best manure to use has been composted, which when done properly, can kill any harmful pathogens, stabilize the nutrients, and lower salts that are present. Composting manure, along with any bedding material or other substances, involves regular turning, aeration, and making sure the compost reaches specific temperatures for specific amounts of time. According to the USDA Organic Tipsheet , depending on how the composting is occurring, the manure must reach Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for three days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system. Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period the materials must be turned a minimum of five times, and this period must be followed by an adequate curing period. Composting raw manure into manure that is safe to use may be difficult, but not impossible, to achieve by a home gardener. Achieving and maintaining the high temperatures is challenging in a home environment and turning and aerating the pile is a considerable commitment. Another consideration when using manure is you don’t know the specific amounts of nutrients and micronutrients you are adding. It varies by the type of animal waste and any additional materials such as bedding that might be mixed into it. This is important because adding the wrong level of nutrients may produce less desirable effects. For example, if manure was added around tomato plants, the nitrogen might promote growth of the plant which may decrease the energy the plant puts into producing the tomatoes. Purchasing fertilizer in some instances might be a better approach as you can select the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (N-P-K) you add to specific areas of your garden. Despite all these cautions, adding manure can be beneficial to the home garden by improving the soil structure, water holding capacity, and through the slow release of nutrients. With a little care, your plants will reap the benefits and grow and produce vigorously. References: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x-9vEKg0K5NLijaqmuC0t-SPJgj6NAQI/view https://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/2019/10/got-chickens-fall-is-good-time-to.html chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Manure%20in%20Organic%20Production%20Systems_FINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/nutrient-management-specialty-crops/correct-too-much-compost-and-manure https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer https://extension.psu.edu/wise-use-of-manure-in-home-vegetable-gardens https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/safely-using-manure-garden/#:~:text=Many%20vegetable%20gardeners%20swear%20by,vegetables%20and%20cause%20human%20disease . https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-manure-in-the-home-garden/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Putting Your Garden to Bed If it’s yellow or brown, cut it down. If it’s green, leave it alone. This long-standing rule-of-thumb means you can’t just wake up one day and decide to put your garden to bed for the winter. It’s a gradual process because plants die back at different rates depending on when they transition energy to the roots. Cutting off green leaves can weaken a plant and affect its vigor and bloom next year. Besides, there are lots of reasons to avoid cutting shrubs, stems and perennials – for winter interest and for wildlife. Here are some ways to ready your gardens for cold and snow ahead. Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Ready for a Long Winter’s Nap? October is the time to put your garden to bed. This means cutting things back, cleaning up what's left, packing away tools and pots, and getting everything ready to go for next spring. Then you can settle in for winter knowing that your garden will look healthy and happily tucked in! Cut Back Keep your garden tidy and save labor later by cutting back many perennials after frost causes them to turn brown and die. On the other hand, some perennials (like Catmint) look good until the snow flies and can be left until spring. And some perennials offer seed heads for foraging birds…or shelter for beneficial insects. These plants support Mother Nature while providing some interest in what might otherwise be a bleak winter landscape. In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. Remember, don't prune woody plants, trees and shrubs until late winter when they are dormant. Clean Up Healthy plant debris can be composted at home or at a municipal compost site. Debris from plants with powdery mildew or other diseases should be composted at a municipal site, where temperatures get high enough to kill the disease. Pull dead or declining annuals. It's hard to do, but they won’t come back next spring. Clean up overgrown areas to prevent animals and pests from moving in – like brush piles or hidden spots around the yard where weedy trees and shrubs have taken root. Harvest everything above ground in the vegetable garden and under fruit trees. Don't leave fruits and vegetables out all winter to rot, attract animals, and set seed. Other Tasks Empty, clean and disinfect your containers by spraying them with a bleach cleaner. Pottery should be moved into a shed or garage to avoid freezing and breaking. Clean and store stakes, tomato cages, garden ornaments and other hardware. They’ll last longer and look better next spring. Clean soil from your tools, then sharpen edges with a file. Finish with a light coating of oil to prevent rusting. Move any plants that spend their winters inside. Quarantine before introducing them to your other houseplants to prevent pests from spreading. Dig up your tender bulbs and tubers well before the threat of frost. Store them in a warm, dry place out of direct light. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: October Gardening Tips from the University of Minnesota Arboretum – October Gardening Tips (umn.edu) Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2), University of Minnesota Extension (3, 4)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoke Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo Credit: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern September marks the beginning of fall and so it’s time to start planting. What? Spring bulbs, of course. Sure, you may be a bit weary of gardening this time of year but before you put your gardening tools away, take out that trowel one last time and plant some spring bulbs. Why plant spring blooming bulbs? After a long Minnesota winter, the flowers of spring bulbs provide a great wealth of color in a variety of flower and leaf designs - an unabashed welcome to spring against the monochromatic color of the final days of winter. When? There are different kinds of bulbs. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall of the previous year. Summer blooming bulbs are planted in the spring of the same year. This article will only focus on spring blooming bulbs, also known as hardy bulbs. Examples of hardy bulbs are tulips, daffodils, iris, crocus and lilies. The local garden centers will have a selection of spring blooming bulbs beginning this month. Now through October is the ideal time when you should plant these bulbs (although they can be planted until the first frost). Make sure the bulbs are clean and solid, without mold, rot, cuts and bruising. When healthy bulbs are properly planted and cared for, spring blooming bulbs will give you years of enjoyment. Tulip, daffodil, crocus bulbs Before you plant your spring bulbs, consider where to plant them in your garden. Begin by taking pictures of your flower gardens throughout the seasons and take note of the sun and shade exposure throughout the days. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant your bulbs as your existing plants progress through their own unique life cycles. Pictures will also aid in determining what plants to thin out and what plants to transplant along with spacing when the time is right. My annual red petunias had a happy southwest-facing summer taking a front row seat to my colorful perennials but will soon relinquish their small plot of soil. My bountiful hydrangea and Black Eyed Susans, swaying feather reed grass, and my prickly Japanese barberry will then become a beautiful backdrop to groupings of snowdrops and allium . Both will be the ideal height ranging from three to eight inches. (Note that there are different sizes of allium ranging from short to quite tall, so look closely before you buy.) Snowdrops will bloom as early as March and allium will follow in May giving time for their surrounding neighbors to grow into full fruition, blooming in all their glory from June through fall. It is always important to read the packaging to know how to plant the bulbs. Planting depths may range from three inches to twelve inches. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “[g]enerally, plant bulbs two to three times deeper than their diameter. This will vary with the type of soil.” If you want to do advance soil preparation, do a soil sample test of the area you will plant your bulbs. Keep in mind that the turnaround for results may take up to three weeks, so plan accordingly. This will give you time to shop for bulbs. After you have evenly spread the final layer of soil, watered thoroughly, laid chicken wire to ward off hungry squirrels and other wildlife, spread a layer of mulch, and labeled your plantings, take one final picture. Document your work so you can relish in the before and after pictures come next spring. During the stillness of the upcoming holiday months, you will be free to consider your color theme for annual hanging baskets or planters for the upcoming year ahead. You can also explore the possibility of summer blooming bulbs as you await with anticipation your spring bulbs in blooming color. REFERENCES: https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/annualsbulbs/bulbs-101 https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTXODhmkJS0 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,4,5), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. The benefits of the cold will prevent the seed from germinating this year, leverage our Minnesota's natural freeze-thaw cycle of winters to work the seed into the soil, and allow the new grass seed to germinate very early in the spring when it is still wet and cold. Dormant seeding gives the lawn a head start next year before the summer heat and annual weeds emerge. Is this good for every lawn? This is great for sparse lawns, bare patches, and thin lawns that need to be thickened. It is not as effective if the lawn is already thick and dense as the seed needs good seed-to-soil contact. When to Dormant Seed the lawn? Timing is very important as grass seeds should not germinate this fall. If the seed germinate/sprout this fall, the immature seedlings may not survive the winter. The target is to apply the dormant seeds before the first major snowfall between mid/late October to mid-November when the temperature is too cold for germination. The seed must be put down while the ground is not frozen but is cold. Day time temperature should be around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit, and soil temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ** Tip : if the lawn is actively growing and being mowed, it is too early for dormant seeding. How to Dormant Seed - the steps: Select the desired grass seed: For Minnesota lawns look up options based on site conditions and maintenance on the UMN extension. (see additional resources below) An average Minnesota lawn may have a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and small amounts of perennial ryegrass. Prepare the lawn: Mow the existing lawn slightly lower than normal to approximately 2 inches in order to allow the seed to reach the soil. Loosen the soil surface so the seed can have easier seed to soil contact. Using a hand rake for small areas of bare or thin lawn is an option. For larger areas, a vertical mower, dethatcher, or scarifier is an option. Rake up any debris Spread the seed & ensure contact: Use the recommended rate for the grass seed and lightly incorporate it into the existing soil with a hand rake. Water lightly & thoroughly Water the area lightly and thoroughly after laying the seed. Do not water too much, the soil should be barely damp - between dry and damp. Only in extreme drought, is additional watering needed. Continuous watering is not needed until the seed germinate in the spring. What to expect in the Spring: The results of dormant seeding depend on Minnesota winter conditions. With more snowfall that can cover and protect the areas, the higher chance of success. Seedlings will germinate by late April and early May as the temperature warms. Be patient as it takes 10-14 plus days for grass to sprout. If the area is a little thin, give it some time and it is not unusual to have additional reseeding in the spring. Avoid heavy traffic on the young seedlings and consider fertilization to assist with lawn establishment Warning: Do not apply a pre-emergent weed preventer in the spring as it will prevent grass seed from germinating. Happy dormant seeding! For more information, please see links and resources below: Learn More here: Dormant Seeding: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding Dormant Seeding Bee Lawns: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dormant-seeding-bee-lawns#:~:text=Dormant%20seeding%20provides%20the%20best,soil%20moisture%20for%20germinating%20seeds Turfgrass Seed for Minnesota Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/buying-turfgrass-seed-minnesota-lawns Gall Dormant Seed: https://www.gertens.com/learn/fall-dormant-seeding#:~:text=Photo%20by%20the%20University%20of,your%20new%20seed%20will%20sprout . Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) Jim Lakin, MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Not every evergreen looks like it’s out of a Rudolph’s Christmas special. Jack Pine is one of them. But this native pine tree has many other virtues to consider if you are looking to add evergreens to your landscape. It is adaptable to good and poor soils, sun or shade and an attractive host to wildlife. Read this article to learn more about this interesting evergreen. Not every evergreen looks like it’s out of a Rudolph’s Christmas special. Jack Pine is one of them. It tends to be short and bushy, especially in poor soils; not the classic Holiday Tree. Yet in spite of that, it has many virtues for the landscaper. Its bushiness makes it an excellent windbreak or privacy screen, especially if you are planting it in difficult soils or part shade. In rich soil, however it can achieve 30 to 50 feet in height, spreading 20 to 30 feet in width. Jack Pine provides an excellent habitat for wildlife, producing abundant cones and providing good cover in winter. If you are naturalizing a large plot, this tree is a good choice. Jack Pine grows across the northern forests of North America, penetrating to Central Minnesota, although some strains will do well even further south. Indeed, the tree will grow from zone 2 through 6. It is, however, sensitive to pine wilt in these more southern locations. Virginia Pine, a close relative, is a better choice in the Southern Midwest. Since Jack Pine does grow well in poor soils, it is often a pioneer plant in burned off or disturbed areas. If you have access to a pure Jack Pine forest, blueberries frequently proliferate in the understory. Making for great foraging! Jack Pine is easy to grow from seed, although sometimes the cones have to be burned to force seed release. The tree requires full sun although it will thrive in relatively poor soils. With two short needles per bundle, it produces a lovely fine texture. In the winter, needles tend to turn a golden green, forming a nice contrast to the true green needles of other evergreens. In environments with cold winters, Jack Pine is relatively maintenance free. Further south, as noted, some difficulties can occur. Root rot and certain rusts are potential problems. So, for you folks Up North, this one’s for you! Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1-2)

< Back Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Unless you live in New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, or Hawaii, you are probably familiar with creeping charlie. According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources , it was brought to the United States as far back as 1672 from Europe to be used both as a source of food and for medicinal reasons. Before the widespread use of hops for making beer, creeping charlie was commonly used for that purpose, thus you may hear it referred to as “ale ivy” among other names, including “ground ivy” or “catsfoot.” A quick internet search will provide an abundance of websites claiming creeping charlie provides relief from a number of ailments from ringing in the ears to constipation to colic to bronchitis, and the list goes on and on. The internet, however, is lacking scientific research to support those claims. One thing that is certain is that creeping charlie is in the mint family. Being in the mint family, some fans of creeping charlie enjoy making tea from its leaves, or using them in salads, or cooking them similar to how spinach is prepared. Rather than harvesting creeping charlie for its flavor profile, it is much more likely that you are not fond of the plant and spend an enormous amount of time and energy trying to eradicate it from your lawn or garden. There are a number of reasons creeping charlie is not welcome in a lawn or garden setting. Like the University of Minnesota Extension tells us, creeping charlie spreads or creeps across the top of the ground via surface roots or runners, called stolons, creating a dense carpet. The University of Michigan tells us that, similar to the runners above ground, creeping charlie has a rhizome root system that spreads horizontally below the ground. It can also spread by seed and even by small scraps of plant material dropped on the ground or left in the soil. It is a master at taking over areas where other plants are unsuccessful, like shady, moist areas, or where soil is compacted and only weeds tend to grow. Once established, it is very adaptable and has no problem creeping its way into sunny locations as well. It crowds out grasses and other desirable native plants. In order to get creeping charlie back under control, it is important to recognize the plant in your yard. According to the University of Michigan , this herbaceous perennial can be recognized by its square-shaped stems, scalloped opposite leaves, and bilaterally symmetric purple flowers that bloom from April to June. You may notice the dense carpet of the leaves that the University of Illinois describes as somewhat kidney-shaped with rounded, toothed margins. Before discussing how to get rid of creeping charlie, it is important to look at cultural control methods for how to prevent it from taking over in the first place; or at least how to create an environment that is not as conducive for its growth. One thing a gardener can do to prevent a creeping charlie takeover is to plant a shade tolerant grass in shady areas instead of a sun-loving Kentucky bluegrass, for example. The University of Wisconsin alternatively recommends foregoing grass in difficult shaded areas and instead planting other shade-loving plants like hostas, pachysandra, or vinca. Once alternative plants are established, newly introduced creeping charlie would have a more difficult time competing. Another cultural method to prevent or hinder the spread of creeping Charlie, would be to alter the growing conditions. Improving drainage or watering less makes the area less desirable for creeping charlie. The University of Minnesota also suggests reducing the amount of shade by trimming shrubs or pruning trees. Mechanical methods of getting rid of creeping charlie include hand-pulling the plants. The University of Michigan reminds us that it will take diligence and patience to remove all of the plants. The most important thing to remember about this method is to get rid of every piece of the plant. Since any little piece left behind can sprout a new plant, it may take multiple seasons to clear out an area. With that in mind, mowing an area of creeping charlie can cause it to spread if the plant is mowed and the clippings are left behind. Remember to bag clippings when mowing an area that is infested with the plant. The Minnesota DNR also recommends setting the mower at a taller setting and fertilizing less to help choke out the creeping charlie. Physical barriers, like edging, are not very effective in stopping the spread of creeping charlie. The stolons above ground and rhizomes below ground are very adept at finding their way over, under, or around barriers. However, if there is an area where you have decided to let creeping charlie live in your yard, a physical barrier will at least slow the spread as long as you are diligent about keeping it contained and removing any plants that make it past the barrier. If none of the previous methods are reasonable or successful in your situation, it is time to consider herbicides, though, as the DNR states, herbicide control is challenging because creeping charlie can reestablish quickly after post-emergence treatment. The University of Minnesota makes the point that the timing of herbicide application makes a difference in its effectiveness. They recommend fall as the best time to apply it when the plant is taking up nutrients from the soil in order to survive winter. Purdue University adds that in the fall a very careful spot application is less likely to affect surrounding garden plants than in the spring when they are more actively growing. The next choice is spring when creeping charlie is actively growing if there are no surrounding plants or if they are shielded from the herbicide. The most effective herbicide against creeping charlie will contain the ingredient triclopyr. Also mentioned are 2,4-D and Dicamba. These are all selective broadleaf herbicides. This means that if you are treating creeping charlie in your lawn rather than in a garden, you do not need to worry about killing your lawn grasses as it will only kill the creeping charlie. Two - three applications per year should be sufficient to keep it under control if instructions are carefully followed, though the University of Wisconsin warns against applying Dicamba more than twice per year. In the past, gardeners touted the use of Borax to treat creeping charlie. Research at the University of Wisconsin and Iowa State University have proven that it should not be used as broadleaf weed control against creeping charlie or any other weeds. It was found that even in small amounts, it is bad for the soil, providing an unfavorable growing environment for desirable plants. If you have a large area where creeping charlie has completely taken over, you may want to consider one of these solutions. One method recommended by staff at the University of Michigan is called sheet composting, or lasagna composting. Layers of organic material are placed upon newspaper or cardboard to smother the creeping charlie and give you a fresh start. In a sunny location, the University of Minnesota recommends another natural method called solarization, where a sheet of plastic over the infested area for several months raises the temperature so that the creeping charlie can no longer survive. If you prefer a chemical alternative, the University of Minnesota suggests that if your lawn is at least 50% creeping charlie, you may want to apply a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like Round-Up. It will kill all the vegetation. As with all chemicals, be sure to carefully follow the instructions to safely apply it and to see when it is safe for people and pets to enter the area and when you can re-seed the area. Everyone’s situation is different, so it is important to consider all the different options for ridding your lawn and garden of creeping charlie. Everyone’s tolerance level is different, so one last thing to consider, but definitely not the least, is whether or not you can live with creeping charlie. Keeping our neighbors happy and controlling invasive weeds from spreading across the property line is important, but perhaps you have an area in your yard where you can allow creeping charlie to co-exist with you. It does provide a small benefit to pollinators, and the carpet of delicate purple flowers in the spring is a beautiful sight. Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota (2, 5)

< Back Vexing Vole Damage Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the snow melts this spring, you may observe trails of dead grass in your yard. Or, you may find that the bark near the ground of your small trees or shrubs has been chewed bare. What is the cause of this damage that occurred over the winter? Most likely, the culprit is voles. Read this article learn more about voles and how you can reduce the damage they may bring to your yard. Voles or field mice are small brown rodents about the size and shape of a mouse. There are several species of vole. In Minnesota, the most common species are the meadow vole and the prairie vole. While voles don’t live long (2 – 16 months) they breed abundantly. One female vole can produce 3 – 5 babies, 5 – 10 times a year. They nest a few inches into the ground in small nests or tunnels. Voles generally eat grass and plant bulbs. They feed day and night throughout the year. Evidence of voles is a series of criss-crossing trails in the grass. You might also see patches of dried grass. This may be a storage area for food and nesting materials. Voles also make small holes in the grass to get to bulbs and tubers. Voles can damage or destroy trees and shrubs by gnawing and girdling of the plant. Of course, other animals, such as rabbits, also gnaw on plants in the winter. Vole girdling can be differentiated from girdling by other animals by the non-uniform gnaw marks. They occur at various angles and in irregular patches. Rabbit gnaw marks are larger and not distinct. Rabbits neatly clip branches with slanted, clean cuts. How can you prevent vole damage? You can’t entirely. Voles are so plentiful that you cannot eliminate them completely. However, there are some steps that you can take to reduce the threat. Remove woodpiles and debris that provide a hiding place Keep your grass trimmed short and your bushes trimmed up Remove birdfeeders or keep the ground around them very clean Loosely wrap your trees with a light-colored tree guard up to the top of the snow line It may be possible to trap voles using a standard mouse trap baited with peanut butter; but this only works on small populations It may be possible to use a toxic bait but this should be used only by certified pesticide applicators. Voles are a food source for many animals. However, this doesn’t control the vole population because they reproduce so rapidly. The good news is that voles rarely invade houses. And, while vole damage is annoying, it is generally not permanent. You can rake of the dead grass and reseed the damaged area. References: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage#pesticides-1901264 ; authored by Jennifer Menken, Bell Museum of Natural History http://pcwd.info/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/1994Voles.pdf ; authored by John M. O’Brien, Nevada Department of Agriculture Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 3 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the third in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about planting and lessons learned. (This is the third in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, planting and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Planting Day It’s finally time to plant! My plants are available to pick up on Friday, June 17, 2022. And you know what they say, about the best laid plans . . . I get my plants home and realize that a full 20% are not what I originally ordered! I knew that there was a possibility for substitutions when ordering kits but I wasn’t expecting this many. I do some quick research on the replacement plants and make some changes to the planting plan. As luck would have it, it’s going to be in the upper 80’s on Saturday and in the mid 90’s on Sunday. A great weekend to plant the 180 plants ordered - not really, but we will make it work. I’ve enlisted my brother and my sister-in-law to help install the pollinator garden on Saturday. Up until this point, the most beneficial tool in the pollinator garden had been the chainsaw I used to clear unwanted trees and shrubs. On planting day, the most beneficial tool is the drill auger attachment used to “dig” 180 planting holes. We finish planting a full hour earlier than anticipated and it looks great! Time to get some water on this new garden. Care for the new garden is pretty basic – water and weed. The new plants need an inch of water a week Ito help them get established. Removing weeds reduces competition for soil nutrients, water and sunlight. I was pleasantly surprised to see seven varieties of plants bloom their first season! And yes, I even saw some pollinators in the garden. Lessons Learned What I would do differently Plan for wildlife - I lost 8 plants, not a lot but enough Look for deer and rabbit resistant plants when purchasing plants and/or Protect new plants from wildlife Start planning earlier Identify the physical garden area earlier that way plants can be ordered before some sell out Manage my expectations, with the part sun/part shade conditions, my plants are healthy but growing slower than they would in full sun What I would do again Plant a pollinator garden Order plant kits for a first-time pollinator garden Work with the Lawns to Legumes program or consider a similar program Recruit or accept offers to help plant the garden Use the chainsaw and drill auger attachment First time events for 2023 Clean up the pollinator garden in the spring - leaving the garden standing protects any overwintering pollinators Leave beds of leaves, twigs and other “messy” areas near the pollinator garden to encourage pollinators to both overwinter and make their homes near this food source Evaluate how plants are doing in their current location, move plants that are struggling Replace plants that have died or were damaged Select replacement plants on my own vs. using a plant kit Calling all pollinators! The garden should be bigger and better than last year. Photo Credit: Brenda Scheer (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Vegetables of Asian Origin That Thrive in Minnesota Community gardeners are increasingly interested in expanding their growing practices to include crops that originated in cultures other than their own. As Minnesotans, we have some options for growing vegetables that can be used in global cuisines and also promote sustainability. This article highlights three vegetables that originated in Asia, but with the right conditions and care, can also be grown in Minnesota. Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The vegetables featured here originated in East Asia, a region that includes parts of Korea, China, and Japan. These vegetables have long been staple crops in traditional gardening environments and can adapt well to Minnesota's climate. With seasonal timing planned and soil conditions prepared in advance, we can grow these vegetables successfully. Growing them offers Minnesota gardeners an opportunity to honor global food heritage while diversifying our gardens and diets. Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) These leafy plants have been cultivated in China for thousands of years and are foundational to East Asian cuisines. Bok choy grows in an upright clump of dark green leaves, with very thick green or white stalks.1 They are versatile in the kitchen; commonly used in stir fries, soups and fermented preparations like kimchi. They can also be used as fillings for dishes such as egg rolls and dumplings. A great ingredient for homemade sauerkraut,2 Bok choy is packed with calcium and vitamins A and C, making it a nutrient-rich addition to the garden. Growing Considerations : As a cool-season vegetable, this plant is well-suited to Minnesota’s spring and fall growing seasons. Seeds can be started indoors or direct-sown in early spring. A second planting in late summer often performs better due to fewer pest issues but plant no later than late July. Soil & Care : They prefer fertile moist soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. They can benefit from row covers that can protect against common pests. Harvesting : Bok choy matures in 30 to 45 days. You can harvest Bok Choy a few leaves at a time instead of waiting for the full head to develop. Bok Choy Japanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus var. japonicus) This Japanese-originating cucumber is great for both pickling and eating fresh. While this is a warm weather crop, its growing conditions are not too dissimilar from common variety cucumbers! In Japan, these cucumbers are often thinly sliced and served with vinegar, sesame, or miso-based dressings. Planting Tips : Start seeds indoors in late April or sow directly outdoors in late May, after all danger of frost has passed.3, 4 Growing Conditions : Growing with a trellis is optimal as this provides support for vertical growth and encourages airflow. Make sure to water regularly to avoid bitter fruit! Harvest : Pick when 8 to 10 inches long for best flavor and texture. Frequent harvesting over the growing season will encourage continual production. Japanese Cucumber Shishito Pepper (Capsicum annuum) The shishito pepper is a wrinkly small pepper from Japan known for its subtle flavor. These peppers are commonly blistered in oil and sprinkled with sea salt, which brings out their sweet grassy flavor. Its ‘easy to cook’ nature and taste have made it a popular snack food throughout the U.S.! Gardening instructions for more familiar peppers can be followed for this variety as well!5 Starting Indoors : Like most peppers, shishito should be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost and transplanted outdoors once night time temperatures stay consistently above 55°F.6 Soil & Sunlight : Requires full sun and well-draining soil. Make sure to utilize a balanced fertilizer (if necessary) to ensure continual fruit production during the growing season. Harvest Time : Pick when the peppers are about 3 to 4 inches long and still green. They can be harvested throughout the season. Shishito Pepper These Asian originating vegetables demonstrate that with just a little planning and care, we can grow our gardens to help expand our diets and try new things. Incorporating one or any of these options into your growing space not only broadens your culinary possibilities, but also introduces you to agricultural traditions that have been around for centuries, from all over the globe. While these crops are not indigenous to Minnesota, they perform well in our short growing seasons. Look for heirloom or traditional varieties from seed catalogs specializing in global crops, such as Kitazawa Seed Company , Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds , or Seed Savers Exchange . Remember: As gardeners, we don’t have to go very far to explore the world. References : https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-chinese-cabbage-and-bok-choy#harvest-and-storage-790562 https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/how-make-your-own-sauerkraut https://greg.app/when-to-plant-japanese-cucumber/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cucumbers#insects-3252210 https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-peppers#disorders-3281462 https://www.gardenary.com/blog/how-to-grow-shishito-peppers Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,3)