< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back Parsnips a Favorite Winter Vegetable Katie Possis, Master Gardener The parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Pastinaca sativa commonly known as the parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Late spring to late summer when the soil temperature is not colder than 46 degrees Fahrenheit is the best time to plant parsnip seeds in full sun or partial sun. Planting companion plants between the rows such as radishes, chives or violas will help fully utilize space in the garden bed. Delicate is the best way to describe the parsnip roots therefore, for best results seeds need to be planted directly into the ground. Plant in loamy soil, which is light, fine soil without compacted clay and well-draining. Well worked soil is preferred to sow seeds ½ inch deep and 6 inches apart. The PH balance needs to be between 6-8, if working with clay-type soil it is best to work in compost to prevent the plant from struggling with root development. After 3 weeks, the parsnip seed will germinate and at 6 weeks it is important to thin out the seedlings. Gloves need to be worn and long sleeves as the leaves and sap of the parsnip plant can be irritating to the skin. During the growing season, it is important to keep the moisture levels consistent as the plants prefer to be watered deeply and will not tolerate drought. If the parsnips are watered irregularly, the parsnip will become tough, which is not the desired result. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation during the first month and a half may be helpful. Mulch around the plants will also aid in obtaining the correct moisture level. Due to the longer growing season, 100-120 days it is necessary to keep up with weed management to ensure proper air flow around the plants. Although parsnips are relatively pest and disease free a few pests to anticipate and manage exist such as caterpillars, carrot fly maggots, and aphides. Caterpillars tend to munch on the leaves. The best course of action is to hand pick the caterpillars off when they appear. To manage the carrot fly maggots plant chives along-side the parsnips which is a natural repellent for the maggots. Aphids also eat parsnips so washing them away with water is the best course of action. Disease such as parsnip canker can be managed by clearing away the previous years plant material that may reside in the soil as it can harbor parsnip canker spores. Harvest the parsnips after a frost or two as the roots become sweeter by turning the starch to sugar. The greens will begin to die back which is the signal for the time to harvest. Gloves are an excellent idea when harvesting. Take great care to loosen the soil around the plants before extracting them from the ground. Extraction is a downward push followed by an upward pull. Remove dirt gently with a brush, remove the green tops and discard, then wash in cold water and pat dry. Leaving the skin on will enhance the flavor of the parsnip. The parsnip is now ready to eat or store. There are several ways to store parsnips: freezing, dehydration or in a container of sand in the basement. To freeze parsnips, start with cleaning, next peel, trim and cut into pieces, blanch in water then transfer into a freezer bag, they will store up to 2-3 months in the freezer. Dehydration drying can take place in a conventional oven at 140 degrees this process can take 20-24 hours the result will store for 4 months to a year. Store in a container of sand in the basement by covering the parsnips entirely with sand and keeping them in a cool, dark place they will store for up to 4 months. Enjoy this winter vegetable in a delicious soup Roasted Vegetable Soup Recipe | Ina Garten | Food Network it’s a shining example of the depth of flavor a parsnip will add to a winter soup. Parsnips are a wonderful accompaniment to fish, beef or poultry. Search | Bon Appetit for a purist parsnip puree recipe. Roasted parsnips bring out the nutty sweetness and taste delicious. Enjoy the roasted goodness sprinkled with a little olive oil and fresh oregano and thyme. Give the parsnip a try, it will not disappoint in winter dishes nor in the garden. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Creative Commons (2)

< Back SEED SAVING 101 Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Do you have some beautiful plants or vegetables in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Read this article for a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success. Do you have some beautiful plants in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Here are a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success: - Know your plant. Seed saving is not the same across the board. The big takeaway here is heirloom vs. hybrid (F1). Heirloom seed will save true, hybrid seed will not. - Choose the ‘perfect’ specimen. There is variation in your plant, and selecting by size, shape, etc., will make a difference. Sacrifice that perfect tomato, largest flower, or tallest dill—whatever you want to reproduce. - Collect seed when it is ripe. The seed does need to ripen before it becomes viable. This happens in different ways, but generally speaking, you need to let the plant go beyond the growing stage and head into decline. Collect and obtain the seed once it is ripe. - I like to follow the plant’s lead. If the seed dries on the plant (typically a pod or seedhead), wait until it is dry and ready to fall off the plant, or the pods are dry and cracking open. Remove from the plant (threshing), and then remove the seeds from the pod or seedhead (winnowing). - If enclosed in wet fleshy fruit, (like tomatoes, cucumbers, melons), wait until the fruit is almost rotting or well past prime. The seeds have a gooey substance that needs to be removed in order to improve their germination rate. An easy way to remove the ‘goo’ is to soak them in a small jar of water until it ferments (several days) and then strain and dry them. The goo will have separated during this time, and the fermentation process actually helps make the seeds disease free. - Dry your seed thoroughly. Store in paper envelopes—they need to breathe. - Don’t forget to label everything, including the date harvested. - Crossbreeding—if you want your seed to be true to the plant, this needs to be avoided. Plant one variety, or keep the plants far enough away from other plants that can cross-pollinate. This does require knowledge of how the plant pollinates, whether wind, insect or self. Perhaps creating a new variety is of interest—in which case you would want to plant the two parents close enough to create cross-pollination. Do a little background on your plants to achieve your desired outcome. If you are interested in learning more, Seed Savers ( www.seedsavers.org ) is a great place to get started. They have a lot of articles, seed saving charts, and more. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2), www.Flickr.com (3)

< Back Growing Daffodils Sometimes referred to as narcissus, daffodils nodding yellow, white, or variegated heads, are true harbingers of spring. Daffodils are a colorful addition to your garden with few basic steps. Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener How do daffodils grow? Daffodils are a spring-flowering plant that grows from a bulb planted in the fall. In spring the bulbs send up leaves that form buds, each of which develops into a flower or two depending on the variety. The outside of the flower is known as the perianth. This can be a different color than the inside trumpet or corona. Beneath the ground the bulb absorbs nutrients manufactured by the leaves after flowering, which can go on for 7 weeks or longer. The leaves fade, drop to the ground, and the plant goes dormant. Cut the leaves off only after they have fallen to the ground and are brown. Where can daffodils be planted for success? Daffodils do best in full sun, although they can tolerate some shade. If planting under a tree, consider removing lower branches to allow for light. Daffodils require well-drained soil. Rocks or clay soil should be removed and replaced with a mix of quality soil, which should be 1 part peat moss and 2 parts soil. Dig up an area to the depth of 12 inches. Using a shovel loosen soil at the bottom of the trench or hole. Mix new soil into the bottom to create a bed of loose soil for the bulb roots to form. Fill the opening to 8 inches and arrange the bulbs 3-4 inches apart with the wide end of the bulb down and gently press into the soil. Gently cover with soil and water. A 10-10-10 commercial fertilizer or organic fertilizer such as bone meal, blood meal or cow manure can be added. Where can I buy daffodil bulbs? Garden centers, online retailers, and mail order garden catalogs are the usual sources. Bulbs that have a soft base, dark brown or black coloring should not be purchased. Look at the mail order bulbs carefully and return any that are bad. Plant the bulbs as soon as you purchase them or receive them in the mail. Bulbs are alive so heat and humidity can cause damage. Reputable dealers will have the bulbs in a cool well- ventilated area. Mail order catalogs will ship during your areas best planting period, which is mid August thru September. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks to from roots so early October is the latest time to plant. How do I care for daffodils? Water newly planted bulbs frequently during the fall. Gardeners frequently forget to water, which is needed for root development. If spring rains are not adequate, begin watering. Cut back on watering as the foliage fades. Buds begin developing on the bulbs; so begin watering in late summer and continue through the fall. Mulch prevents weeds from growing around the bulbs but if the bulbs are naturalized, mulch is not practical. Fertilize in the spring before new growth appears. Avoid touching new growth with fertilizer and water immediately after the application to wash the fertilizer down to the roots. Daffodils do not need staking but deadheading will result in a more attractive bed. Daffodils are generally insect and disease free. Daffodils make a colorful early spring bouquet. Some are sweet scented. Harvest the flowers just as the bud begins to open and place immediately in water. Do not mix daffodils with other flowers since daffodils release a slime that is toxic. For long lasting bouquets add 5 drops of bleach to the water. With a minimum of garden preparation and plant maintenance, daffodils will reward the gardener with colorful spring joy.

< Back Fermenting Your Own Hot Sauce Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Sometimes just experimenting with your vegetables makes you a winner. Read about how to grow the peppers and make the hot sauce that won over Joy Johnson’s “hot sauce crazy” family members. The men in my family love hot sauce. They put hot sauce on burgers and brats, eggs and ham, enchiladas and tacos, potatoes and pasta, the list goes on and on. They even give each other hot sauce for Christmas. Whenever one of them travels, they bring back sample bottles of hot sauce made in the city they visited. Since they often don’t care for all of the vegetables that I grow in my garden, I thought I would outsmart them this year. I planted a package of “Mixed Hot Pepper” seeds that I got from a Burpees catalog. I figured I’d finally found vegetables they would eat from my garden. The peppers got off to a slow start in my basement under a grow light in February. A few of them grew to 3-5 inches in height. Most of them stopped growing at 2 inches and were very thin. I was not very hopeful as I gingerly transplanted them outside into the garden at the end of May. But I watered them and fertilized them. Then I completely ignored them for a month while I prepared the rest of the yard for our son’s wedding. One day, weeks after the wedding was past, I walked down to the pepper patch and there were tall, healthy plants covered with peppers! I was delighted. I recognized the Jalapenos, because I’d grown those before. I wasn’t familiar with any of the others. After doing some research, I learned that I had Anaheim, Hungarian Wax, Cayenne and Ancho peppers. The colors ranged from red to orange to yellow to green. They were beautiful and I was so excited. I decided to ferment my own hot sauce. I picked all the peppers and filled two 17-quart bowls. One tip my daughter had shared with me - don’t mix the red ones with the green ones. Your hot sauce will turn out a very ugly green-brown; most unappetizing. So, I separated the greens into one pile and the reds, yellows and oranges into another pile. The hot sauce turned out great! I gave bottles of it as Christmas gifts. Here is the recipe. Oh, one more tip – wear gloves when picking, washing and slicing the peppers (and don’t rub your eyes, no matter what!) Homemade Fermented Hot Sauce 1 ½ pounds peppers of your choosing (a mix of sweet peppers and hot peppers), tops and stems removed, halved 6 cloves garlic peeled 4 cups filtered water 4 teaspoons sea salt 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup, optional Instructions: Place the peppers and garlic in a clean wide mouthed quart canning jar. Set aside. To make the brine, heat the filtered water and sea salt in a medium saucepan until the salt has dissolved completely. Let cool to room temperature. Place the peppers and garlic in a clean glass jar. Pour the brine over the peppers and garlic, completely submerging them. If you run out of brine, you can make more by mixing 1 cup of warm filtered water with 1 teaspoon of sea salt. Cover the jar with folded cheese cloth and secure with a rubber band. Place in a warm, dark spot for 5-7 days or until the brine looks cloudy and small bubbles begin to appear when you tap the side of the jar. When the fermentation time is up, strain the brine, reserving it. Place the fermented peppers and garlic in a blender and add in 1 cup of the brine, plus the apple cider vinegar, and honey or maple syrup, if using. Blend until completely smooth adding in additional brine to reach the desired thickness. Transfer to a bottle and store in the fridge for 3-6 months. Bottles with stoppers are available at Hobby Lobby. The hot sauce turned out great! The men in my family love it. My son in law even said it is the best hot sauce ever. I ended up with a green sauce made mostly from jalapenos and underripe other varieties. And a red sauce made from all of the red, yellow and orange peppers. They taste quite different, but both are hot and delicious. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Winter is a Perfect Time to Start Seeds Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. Read this article to learn the why, what. how and when for starting your own plants. On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. WHY: Many annuals need an early start in order to maximize their blooming time in summer. Long-growing vegetables need to be started indoors in order to be harvested before the first frost. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: seed trays and potting mix seeds, of course! heat mats to raise the temperature of your soil seed tray covers to help maintain humidity and temperature (or plastic wrap) grow lights (optional) plug-in timers for grow light WHAT: Not all plants benefit from being started as seeds indoors. Many are at their best when sown directly. Always check your seed packets to see what is recommended for each plant. HOW: PREPARE your setup with a heating mat under your seed tray, filled with potting mix and covered by a humidity dome. Grow lights can be plugged into timers in order to mimic long summer days, with 12+ hours of light, but do not plug your heating mat into a timer—heat should be on at all times. PLANT your seeds according to the seed packet instructions, WATER, and COVER your tray with your humidity dome. WATCH your seeds germinate and grow! The first growth you will see are not true leaves, but cotyledons. All plants are categorized by these: a seedling with one is called a monocot and a seedling with two is called a dicot. ADJUST the closeness of your grow light to your seedlings—about 4” is best! If your light is too far away from the seedlings, they grow tall, spindly, and weak as they strive to get closer to the light. These “leggy” seedlings often will not survive, so prevent your seedlings from reaching that state. WATER as needed, and also remove the humidity covers as needed. Too much humidity can create an environment in which molds can grow. THIN seedlings as needed. If many seedlings are too close together, they will not grow at their best. FERTILIZE only once a week, and use fertilizer mixed at only ¼ strength. TRANSPLANT seedlings into larger containers as they grow. As you move them, lift by the root ball by using a spoon or plant tag for support. Never hold by the stem, but if necessary to steady the plant, lightly hold the plant by a leaf. HARDEN OFF seedlings when it is a few weeks before they will be moved out of doors. Each day, set plants outside for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. Begin by placing them in the shade for a short time, and gradually increase their exposure to the sun until you’re ready to transplant them to the garden. MOVE plants outdoors! WHEN: This can be the most daunting aspect of seed starting! If you are planting several different things, this can feel a bit like a juggling act. Grab a notebook and a pen to jot down notes from your seed packets on how many “days to harvest” or “days to bloom” for each plant. Consider making yourself a seed-starting calendar to keep beside your trays. Specific varieties will vary, but in general, you can follow these guidelines: EARLY FEBRUARY (14-15 weeks indoors): geraniums, pansies, leeks, onions LATE FEBRUARY (12-13 weeks indoors): dusty miller, larkspur, lobelia, celery EARLY MARCH (10-11 weeks indoors): coleus, dahlia, heliotrope, petunias, rudbeckia, snapdragons, verbena, broccoli Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce LATE MARCH (8-9 weeks indoors): cleome, hollyhocks, phlox, alyssum, eggplant, okra, peppers EARLY APRIL (5-7 weeks indoors): amaranthus, aster, bachelor buttons, calendula, morning glory, ornamental basil and kale, tomatoes LATE APRIL (3-4 weeks indoors): cosmos, sweet peas, zinnias, sweet potatoes As always, you will learn what works and what doesn’t work in your own garden by trying things out. There isn’t only one correct way to practice indoor seed starting, and everyone’s set-up is a little different. For more information about growing plants from seed in your home, visit the Dakota County Master Gardener You Tube site. Here is one “how-to” video . Happy planting! Photo Credit: Valerie Rogotzke (1), Jim Lakin (2,3)

< Back Harvesting and Preserving Herbs Harvest time is such a fun time of the year. There are so many herbs to harvest and preserve for the upcoming winter months. Some share their bounty year after year, like tarragon and oregano, and others, like basil and marjoram, are planted in spring for a fall harvest. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener I’m always playing with herbs in my yard, tucking them into the landscape, my gardens, and containers. Wherever they end up, as fall approaches, my attention turns toward harvesting. I’ll share a couple of harvesting techniques that have worked well for me over the years. Personally, I tend to wait as long as possible before the final harvest. Oftentimes I find myself gathering armfuls of herbs to bring indoors in a race against inclement weather, especially my frost-sensitive herbs. Looking at mountains of plant material all over my kitchen counters and in buckets makes me sometimes wonder what I was thinking way back in the spring! Anyway, here are some techniques that help me prolong the fresh herbs for cooking and make short work of processing. These methods preserve the flavor and essential oils, which is what it’s all about. First, prepping for harvest is important. I don’t like to waste an enormous amount of time washing and drying herbs once they are inside, so I try to use the gift of rain. This washes the majority of dust, dirt and debris from the herbs. It also ensures they are hydrated just prior to harvest. If no rain, then I achieve the same effect with a garden hose. My favorite way to process a lot of herbs is what I refer to as the ‘slurry’ method. I’ll use basil, since it is a perfect example. Basil does not like temps below 50 degrees F, and discolors to an unappetizing brown if cold and wet. This method preserves the color and makes it super simple to use in cooking. The key to a slurry is the ratio of fresh, packed herbs to oil. Use a 4:1 ratio. The process is simple. Two cups packed leaf material and ½ cup oil (my favorite is olive). Do not use woody stems. Using a food processor, start pulsing the leaf material, and slowly add the oil until incorporated. The mixture should be thick and pourable, but not runny. Fill ice cube trays and freeze the mixture. Once frozen, store in freezer bags. I mark the bags with ice cubes that equal 2 cups of herbed cubes. This is the base amount to make one recipe of pesto. If you want to make a pesto, just thaw, and add the remainder of pesto ingredients to it. Otherwise, for cooking, just pop an ice cube or two as needed or desired. The slurry method works well also with water as an oil substitute. Another favorite technique of mine is to make herb bouquets. I just go outside and collect herbs as you would cut flowers, and bring them in and arrange the herbs in vases. If the herb is annual, such as basil, I will cut it right at the ground level and bring the whole plant inside. If it is a perennial, such as tarragon, then just bring in a number of branches. They last for weeks this way, and provide fresh herbs for your cooking well into fall. I find the varied greens of the herbs are as beautiful as flowers. There are so many ways to preserve herbs, but these are a couple of my favorites. Here’s to fall bouquets of green! Photo credits Emily Murphy, “ PassthePistil.com ” (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4)

< Back Planning for a Sunny Garden for all Types of Conditions If you are looking to start growing flowering plants or vegetables in a sunny area of your garden, read Margie Blare’s articles on starting a new garden. Then, take a look at this article which provides lots of ideas for plants in various kinds of sunny gardens. There are a seemingly endless number of plants that will flourish in a sunny garden. This article helps you narrow the choices down to some super stars. Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener The twin cities area of Minnesota, now classified as USDA Hardiness Zone 5a, offers a unique opportunity for gardeners to create vibrant and thriving sunny gardens, whether you have a large space, small space, container gardens or a balcony garden. With at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily, you can cultivate a diverse array of flowers, vegetables, herbs, and small shrubs that not only add beauty but also provide ecological benefits. The shift from Zone 4b to 5a indicates milder winters, allowing for a broader range of plants to flourish in the region. To ensure your sunny garden remains healthy and vibrant, remember to provide adequate water and fertilization. Most plants require about an inch of water weekly, and using slow-release fertilizers can enhance growth without overfeeding. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, while row covers can protect against early frosts and pests. By selecting the right plants and following these care tips, you can create a thriving sunny garden in the Twin Cities that brings joy and beauty throughout the growing season. This article will suggest sun-loving perennials listed in different categories. You may want to look for those plants that appear in several categories as superstars. Perennials for Sunny Gardens Natives Native plants are an excellent choice for sunny Minnesota gardens, offering both beauty and ecological benefits. Here just a few of the many native plants that thrive in a sunny Minnesota garden: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a showstopper, attracting pollinators with its bold purple petals. Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa), which produces lavender flowers beloved by bees and butterflies. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta): for those seeking a touch of golden sunshine, offer long-lasting blooms and support local wildlife consider planting or Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is drought-tolerant and supports pollinators. Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop) : This plant offers blue, tubular flowers from mid-June to September. It is deer resistant and prefers well-drained soil. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) : Known for its bright orange or yellow flowers, this plant is a vital food source for monarch caterpillars. It grows well in loose soil and full sun. Wild Bergamot Grasses To add structure and year-round interest to your sunny garden, consider incorporating native grasses. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a stunning choice, with its bluish-green leaves turning a captivating reddish-brown in fall. For taller options, Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) are excellent choices, providing vertical interest and winter habitat for birds. These grasses not only thrive in full sun but also require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for busy gardeners. Little Bluestem Unique Pollinators Here are some unique plants that thrive in full sun in our area. These flowers not only add beauty to your garden but also provide ecological benefits by attracting pollinators and supporting local wildlife: Geum (ex., Red Dragon ): This perennial features low-mounding leaves with numerous small flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It is a great choice for adding vibrant color to your garden. Nepeta (ex., Purrsian Blue) : Known for its compact mounding habit and periwinkle blue flowers, this plant is deer and rabbit resistant. It blooms from May to September and attracts bees and butterflies. Liatris spicata (Blazing Star/Gay Feather) : This plant features purple, spike-like clusters that bloom in full sun conditions. It is deer resistant and thrives in rich, loamy soil. Low Maintenance Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) : one member of the Rudbeckia family, these plants are drought-resistant and deer-resistant, with bright yellow flowers that attract butterflies and birds. They require minimal care and can grow in well-drained soil. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) : these natives are drought-tolerant once established and attract a variety of pollinators. They bloom from mid-summer to early fall and require minimal maintenance. Sedum : This succulent comes in various forms and is highly drought-tolerant. It blooms in late summer and is excellent for low-maintenance gardens. Yarrow : With its flat clusters of flowers, yarrow attracts bees and butterflies. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) : in addition to its other attributes, Butterfly Weed is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed Compact Flowering Plants These plants are ideal for adding color and vibrancy to small full sun gardens without overwhelming the space: Sedum Sunsparkler Series : These sedums are low-mounding, growing only 6-8 inches tall and 10-12 inches wide. They offer beautiful foliage and bright flowerheads, making them perfect for small gardens. Nepeta Purrsian Blue : This compact mounding plant produces periwinkle blue flowers from May to September. Yellow Alyssum : Known as basket-of-gold, this low-growing perennial forms a mat and blooms with bright yellow flowers in the spring. It grows 6-12 inches tall with an 18-inch spread. Yarrow : While not as compact as some others, yarrow can be pruned to maintain a smaller size. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Geum Red Dragon : this colorful blooming plant is easy to grow. Deer-resistant Plants Yarrow (Achillea) : Known for its finely textured foliage with an herbal scent that repels deer, yarrow blooms in yellow, pink, white, or peach. It is hardy in zones 3-8 and prefers full sun. Ornamental Onion (Allium) : Deer avoid this plant due to its onion flavor. Varieties like 'Serendipity' offer playful purple flowers that bloom from mid to late summer. It thrives in zones 4-8 and full sun to part sun. Anise Hyssop (Agastache) : This plant's fragrant leaves and soft peach flowers make it unappealing to deer. Catmint (Nepeta) : Deer dislike this fuzzy, fragrant foliage of catmint. It blooms with bright lavender-purple flowers starting in early summer and thrives in zones 3-8 with full sun. Coneflower (Echinacea) : While not completely deer-proof, coneflowers are often left alone due to their spiny cones. They bloom most of the summer with full to part sun. Russian Sage (Perovskia) : Its clean, herbal scent makes it highly deer-resistant. It blooms with bright amethyst-blue flowers and thrives in full sun. Deer-resistant Groundcovers Creeping Phlox : This groundcover blooms with vibrant purple flowers in early spring and prefers well-drained soil in full sun. It is relatively deer-resistant due to its dense growth and less palatable foliage. Sedum : Known for its succulent leaves and stems, sedum is highly drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. It comes in various forms and colors, making it suitable for rock gardens and full sun conditions. Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) : While not entirely deer-proof, this sedge is less appealing to deer due to its grass-like foliage. It thrives in full sun to part shade and is native to Minnesota. Thyme : Some varieties of thyme, like creeping thyme, can be used as a groundcover and are deer-resistant. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Creeping Phlox These groundcovers are not only deer-resistant but also low-maintenance, making them ideal for sunny areas. However, it's important to note that while these plants are less appealing to deer, they may still be nibbled on if other food sources are scarce. Vegetables and Herbs for Sunny Gardens Vegetable gardens in the twin cities can flourish with a variety of crops. Most vegetable and herbs need a lot of sun. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants should be started indoors and transplanted after the last frost, while lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, and peas can be directly sown into the garden in early spring. For herbs, basil, chives, dill, and mint are popular choices that thrive in sunny conditions and require minimal care. Lavender , though typically hardy in Zone 5, can also survive in Zone 4 with proper protection, adding a fragrant and beautiful element to your garden. Compact vegetables that thrive in container gardens and smaller gardens Cherry Tomatoes : These are ideal for container gardens due to their compact size and high yield. They require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Peppers : Both bell and hot peppers grow well in containers. They are relatively compact and produce a high yield. Leaf Lettuce and Spinach : These can thrive in partial shade but also do well in full sun containers. They are easy to grow and can be harvested continuously. Radishes : Quick-growing and compact, radishes can be grown in shallow containers and require minimal space. Happy Sunny Gardening https://www.fox9.com/news/minnesotas-plant-hardiness-zones-have-changed https://www.mprnews.org/story/2023/11/21/milder-winters-changing-usda-plant-hardiness-zones-in-minnesota https://www.coppercreeklandscapes.com/new-blog/hardy-summer-perennials-minnesota https://www.leafgreengardens.com/minnesota-gardening-zones-by-usda/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://mnhardy.umn.edu/shrubs https://sargentsgardens.com/top-10-sun-perennials/ https://www.gurneys.com/collections/vegetables-zone5 https://www.motherearthgardener.com/organic-gardening/herb-gardens-in-the-north-ze0z1810zcoo/ https://www.epicgardening.com/minnesota-perennials/ https://www.bachmans.com/information/usda-zone-map https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/17xkzir/2023_usda_plant_hardiness_map_of_minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/trees-and-shrubs-minnesota-landscapes https://bonnieplants.com/blogs/garden-ideas-inspiration/full-sun-garden-plants https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/hardy-herbs https://almanacplanting.com/collections/shrubs-and-bushes-zone-5 https://www.myhomepark.com/blog/12-minnesota-native-plants-for-your-home-landscapes https://ponicslife.com/minnesota-vegetable-planting-calendar-a-quick-and-easy-guide/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade https://tristarplants.com/collections/shrubs-for-zone-5 https://northerngardener.org/5-perennials-that-act-like-shrubs/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-vegetable-garden https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/1bc3q70/what_perennial_herbs_do_people_have/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,4), open.lib.umn.edu (2), marylandbiodiversity.com (3)

< Back June - Fun With Fairy Gardens Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Fairy gardens are a great way to experience gardening with your children or grandchildren but – grownups love them, too. It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. This article will inspire to experience the joy of fairy gardens. Fairy gardens have become increasingly popular. So, exactly what is this fairy garden craze all about? It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. Throughout history, tales have existed of flower fairies. Flower fairies are nature spirits who care for flowers, plants, and trees. They have their own distinctive personality derived from her plant which determines their aesthetic, mood, and character. It’s also said that whenever a seed sprouts, a flower fairy baby is born. They live and sleep on their chosen flower, plant, or tree and as they grow the fairy grows too. ( www.pickupflowers.com ) Fairies are attracted to spaces filled with life. They can occur under, in, and around trees such as oak, elders, yew, holly, yellow elm, and many more life sustaining trees. Flowers that attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds also attract fairies such as pansies, bee balm, petunias, foxglove, sunflower, columbine, tulips, snapdragons, cosmos, and violets. Even foliage creates shadows and hiding spaces for shy fairies. Emphasize the natural as they’re very nature oriented and will be attracted to your efforts and set-up homesteads near you in nature. ( GardeningKnowHow.com , Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist, 3/25/21) There are unlimited fairy garden ideas available, both inside and outside … only limited by your imagination. Release your inner child and step into the fairy world by creating your own enchanted garden. Create a small magical spot in your garden, a special place to focus on the small details of nature, and to explore the range of your imagination. The idea is to plant certain flowers that fairies would like or build them a little house to calm a malicious fairy or receive good luck from a grateful one. There are numerous containers you can use to create a fairy garden, and you will see them listed throughout this article. Other elements you can use for your fairy gardens include birdhouses, toad stool houses, water fountains, small streams, bowls of water, statuary that honors elves, fairies, and gnomes. I remember being at the Arboretum during my intern training and they had a gorgeous set-up for a massive fairy garden. I made one for inside our home which took virtually a few hours to make. So, give it a shot … you’ll find the fun and magical mystery of creating your very own fairy garden. Photo credits: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1, 2), Julie Harris (3), Carolyn Plank (4)

< Back Food for Thought in the Home Landscape Everyone wants a yard that is both beautiful and functional. For anyone wanting to grow food and make their landscapes more productive, there are many ways to incorporate both, outside of the usual raised beds, berry bushes, and fruit trees. Many more plants and plant parts than you might think are edible, and you can create layered designs to maximize density and diversity. Read this article for ideas and resources that you can put to use in your own yard. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern When you think of an edible garden, what comes to mind? You might picture some raised beds filled with annual vegetables, a healthy patch of raspberries or rhubarb, or perhaps a small grove of dwarf fruit trees. Beyond these familiar and delicious friends, there are plenty of lesser-known roots, shoots, fruits and flowers that can be incorporated into your home landscape. The University of Minnesota Extension website provides a long of list fruits and flowers that can be grown in Minnesota and incorporated into your home landscape. Of course, only certain flowers are edible, so you must learn which flowers and which parts of a flower are edible. And make sure that the plants you eat have not been treated with harmful chemicals. Some examples of edible flowers listed by the U of M Extension at the above link are: nasturtiums, calendula, squash flower, borage, anise hyssop, bachelor buttons, beebalm and many more. Coneflower and Anise Hyssop If you are interested in exploring edibles and how they can be incorporated in your garden, visit the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Foodscape . The Foodscape at the Farm at the Arb is a great model of “sustainable landscape design that combines the intentional use of food plants for their edible qualities as well as their ornamental value.” Thankfully, there doesn’t always have to be a tradeoff between a yard that looks good and one that tastes good. Foodscape at the UMN Landscape Arboretum Many of us are limited on space for our gardens. In relatively small urban and suburban lots, our eyes can easily become bigger than our yards when it comes to the wide variety of tasty things we could grow. If so, you should become familiar with the food forest approach. A food forest is made up of a variety of plants that mimic growth patterns found in nature. A food forest typically includes larger food-producing trees, small trees and shrubs, and a floor of annuals, perennial, root and ground cover crops and vines. Food forest projects are often group partnerships which make use of larger growing areas. However, you don’t need room for a full “forest” to take advantage of planting in layers. Making full use of the canopy, understory, and floor is a great way to maximize diversity and yields in your home garden. There are also culinary and medicinal uses for many plants that were not intentionally cultivated. Dandelions are a well-known example; others such as plantain , purslane , and even the dreaded creeping bellflower provide some benefits. Learn more about what to look for at this U of M Extension article on weeds so that the next time you are out weeding, consider if there might be a few things you’d like to try in your next salad! What’s more, if you happen to have a taste for these plants, you can harvest to your heart’s content, knowing that you’re helping to strengthen your local ecosystem in the process. Inspiration abounds for expanding your palate and introducing some exciting new elements to your existing panoply of plants. Check out a few of these other Extension resources for more ideas and information: “Edible Gardens for People and Pollinators” - University of Minnesota Extension “The Incredible Edible Landscape” - Iowa State University Extension “Edible Perennials” - University of Illinois Extension “Foraging for Backyard Edibles” - North Carolina State Extension So, take advantage of this great research and put it to use in creating an attractive and edible garden in your yard. Reference: extension.umn.edu A home for homegrown food at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Ten Master Gardener volunteers were part of the team that built The Foodscape surrounding the new Burton and Virginia Myers Education Center. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back The Effects of Drought on Trees Lisa Olson, Master Gardener I have heard it said tongue in cheek that Minnesota’s average weather is the midpoint between two ridiculous extremes, because when we talk about averages, it can be misleading. Sometimes it happens that one huge deluge of rain will offset a long dry spell, at least on paper, where the average rainfall for the month or year may appear as normal in the record books. But those long drought periods are not so easily erased in the lives of the trees. According to the US Forest Service, healthy trees mean… Healthy people: 100 trees remove 53 tons of carbon dioxide and 430 pounds of other air pollutants per year. Healthy communities: Tree-filled neighborhoods lower levels of domestic violence and are safer and more sociable. Healthy environment: One hundred mature trees catch about 139,000 gallons of rainwater per year. Homeowner savings: Strategically placed trees save up to 56 percent on annual air-conditioning costs. Evergreens that block winter winds can save 3 percent on heating. Better business: Consumers shop more frequently and longer in tree-lined commercial areas and are willing to spend more. Higher property values: Each large front yard tree adds to a home’s sale price. One thing that helps to keep trees healthy is a consistent, sufficient amount of rainfall. Extended dry periods, even if followed by enough rain to offset the deficit in the record books, will still have a detrimental effect on trees. During an extended dry spell, young trees will be the first to show the effects, while older, mature trees with large root systems may take three to five years to show outward signs of drought effects and at that point it may be too late for them to recover. Additionally, droughts are getting worse. Due to global warming, the increase in average temperature amplifies the effects of drought. Hot and dry is much worse than cool and dry. Higher temperatures mean evaporation increases which means soil dries out faster and trees transpire more. As a result, trees have evolved strategies to cope with drought conditions. One strategy a tree may employ is to close its stomata, or leaf pores, to minimize transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water in plant leaves. A large oak tree can give transpire a whopping 40,000 gallons of water per year. 10% of the moisture in the atmosphere comes from transpiration. With the pores closed, besides preventing transpiration, the tree is unable to take in carbon dioxide which is critical to the process of photosynthesis. Without the ability to make food, it becomes dependent on the energy it has stored to keep itself alive. Symptoms can include scorched, wilted, or rolled leaves, or early fall color. A tree may drop some or all of its leaves to further prevent transpiration. As a tree uses up its reserve energy, growth will stop and twigs and branches begin to die back. Symptoms of drought stressed trees will occur from the top of the tree down, and from the outside toward the center. In other words, the extremities are the first areas to show damage. Damage caused by drought may not show up until the winter when a normally resilient tree becomes affected by sunscald, frost-splitting, or its weakened branches break from heavy snow. Another secondary effect of drought is that a weakened tree is more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Widespread areas of damage from emerald ash borer or diseases like oak wilt or other diseases are more prevalent when trees are stressed. One area of damage on a tree cannot be easily observed for damage. Most tree roots are in the top six to 24 inches of soil making them extremely vulnerable to dry periods. https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml This leads us to what we can do to minimize the effects of drought on our trees. Water using good practices. Slow, deep watering is critical. Water every five to seven days or more often if the temperature soars above 95 degrees. Place a shallow can where you are sprinkling to be sure at least two inches of water are slowly applied. Be sure to water the entire root area. Roots spread at least two to three times farther than the dripline of the tree. Another factor regarding watering is that any plants growing above the tree roots are also competing for water, so increase the amount of water if other plants are present and be sure to remove any weeds. A couple inches of mulch, but not touching the base of the tree, is a good alternative to grass under a tree. The best way to see if water is getting to the roots is to dig a hole approximately 10 inches deep to see if a sufficient amount of water is getting down to that depth from your watering. An area of heavy clay soil may seem saturated if the water is puddling, but in fact the water may just be sitting on the surface as it takes a long time for water to infiltrate clay. Young, newly planted trees will need more frequent watering until their roots are developed. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources put together this video How to Water a Tree for tips on watering newly planted trees. While it may be tempting to water a little bit every day instead of deep watering once a week, shallow watering will cause the roots all to move closer to the surface where they are more likely to be affected by the extreme weather conditions and unable to grow deeper where more water may be available. For best results, water in the morning and consider using a soaker hose. Avoid pruning stressed trees. Healing the wounds uses up the energy the tree is trying to conserve just to survive. If you are planting new trees, choose your plant wisely. Always consider the site where the tree will be living and select a plant that can tolerate the conditions. If you are interested in learning more about the effects of drought on trees, the links below include helpful information! https://www.fs.usda.gov/learn/trees https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/drought_monitor.html https://news.iu.edu/live/news/28084-young-trees-more-susceptible-to-drought-but-also https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/healthy-roots-and-healthy-trees-2-926/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4518277/ https://environment.yale.edu/news/article/brodersen-drought-and-tree-mortality-science-reveals-harsh-future-for-forests https://www.mass.gov/doc/citizen-forester-june-2017/download https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2016-07-08-drought-impacts-trees-years-come#:~:text=Many%20trees%20will%20take%20three,to%20insect%20and%20disease%20infestations . https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/long-term-drought-effects-on-trees-shrubs https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml https://extension.umn.edu/how/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods/caring-trees-dry-weather https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/avoid-pruning-drought-stressed-trees https://extension.missouri.edu/news/how-to-help-your-trees-recover-from-drought-5728 https://www.noaa.gov/jetstream/ll-leaf Photo Credit: National Drought Mitigation Center (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Lisa Olson (3), University of Florida (4)

< Back Rosemary Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries. It has been associated with enhanced brain function, it has health benefits, it has a lovely scent and it adds flavor to your recipes. Read this article to learn more about this ancient herb and, if you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, why you should consider doing so next season. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Rosemary is truly a very special herb and one of my very favorites. Today, we may love rosemary for its scent, use in the kitchen and decorative qualities but this is an herb that has been appreciated by humans for centuries. The use of rosemary has a long and distinguished history. The first known reference to rosemary dates back to Egyptian cuneiforms over 7,000 years ago. But most of the early references to this herb are from the Greeks and Romans, beginning around 500 B.C. Rosemary originated in the Mediterranean, especially around the coastal areas. Its name comes from ‘ros’ and ‘marinus’, which translates to ‘dew of the sea’. Originally classified as ‘rosmarinus officinalis’, in 2017 it was reclassified as ‘salvia rosmarinus’. Rosemary has long been associated with aiding in brain function. Greek scholars would braid it into their hair to help them with their studies. Today it is known to be rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known to help with digestion and hair growth and renewal. When used in cooking, it is used sparingly, as it has a very strong flavor and a little goes a long way. Rosemary is a perennial shrub in zones 7 to 10. Here in Minnesota, it is grown as an annual, as it cannot survive our harsh winters. My favorite way to grow rosemary is in combination containers. The ‘prostrata’ varieties have a trailing habit, and tuck right up to the edge and spill over, creating a fabulous lacy carpet. Since rosemary is slow growing, it will not overwhelm other plants. I purchase starters as early in the season as possible, which allows it to get bigger before I transplant it. This summer, I used several as a trailer in a container with a boxwood. A week before the temperatures were forecast to drop into the 40s, I repotted the rosemary into a smaller container all by itself to settle in before bringing it inside for the winter. It is a good candidate for overwintering, as you can leave it out much longer than other plants, and put it out again in early spring. The plant can survive a frost, so typically I bring it in around November, and put it out again in April. Once indoors for the winter, place it in a sunny spot, away from drafts. It likes humidity, but hates wet feet. Misting it often is recommended. Some winters I do not try to overwinter rosemary in containers. Instead, I just make a fresh rosemary bouquet. This works well for the upright versions. Cut the stems at the base of the plant and place in a container of water. Make sure you strip the leaves at the bottom, as they will rot in water (these can be used in your cooking). The rosemary bouquet eventually dwindles as you use it, however, it usually takes me through the holiday season before it is gone. Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries for good reason. If you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, consider doing so next season. Photo Credit: kampung-kuliner.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Shari Mayer (2)