< Back Winter Hardy Cacti in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Cactus – does not only grow in the desert! Who knew? There are cacti that are not only winter hardy, but native to Minnesota? Read on to learn more about how you can grow a cactus garden in your yard. On a cool November day, I found myself standing in front of something I didn’t expect - a cactus garden in Minnesota. This particular garden is a gift from the St. Paul Garden Club and is located right on the University of Minnesota’s St. Paul Campus, outside the Conservatory & Botanical Collection (free and open to the public most weekdays 9am-3pm). According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, our state is home to three native cacti: Brittle Prickly Pear ( opuntia fragilis ). This cactus may develop a pretty yellow flower but the spikes of this plant are not pretty and no fun. Handle with care as the spikes can easily get stuck in your hand. They cactus is easily spread through the fur, feet, or skin of a passing animal as a piece of the plant will tear away - leading to the “brittle” name. The plant will be carried along by the animal and, at some point, dropped to grow in a new location. Plains Prickly Pear ( opuntia polyacantha ). This cactus has longer spines and pretty yellow flowers. It forms a mat that will spread along the rocks and grassland - or in your rock garden. Ball cactus, also called Pincushion cactus ( coryphantha vivipara or escobaria vivipara . ) This cactus is part of the UMN Landscape Arboretum rare species work because the plant and its native habitat are endangered by land use, including granite mining operations. The Arboretum and conservation partners are leading a project to seed bank and translocate seedlings to protected areas. They are creating educational displays at the Arb, and will eventually train local volunteers to take on the responsibility of monitoring these populations. In their native habitats, cacti prefer rocky soil and drier grasslands. In Minnesota, this environment is mostly found in the western counties. Gardeners can mimic these conditions with well-drained soil in raised beds and rock gardens. Amending the soil with gravel can improve drainage. Cacti are able to store water and nutrients for a long time in their stems, which helps them to survive the extreme temperature and moisture conditions found throughout the seasons in Minnesota. Cacti will often grow in crevices and crannies along rock slabs; they use the heat stored in the rocks when the sun shines to help them survive our cold winters. So, if you are drawn the desert look or are looking for a plant that will grow in your rock garden, consider these Minnesota native cacti for your garden. For more information and photos of Minnesota native cacti, including teacher resources, visit https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2024/jul-aug/yn.html For more information about the University of Minnesota CBS Conservatory and Botanical Collection, visit cbs.umn.edu For more information about the Arboretum’s rescue projects and conservation partners, visit https://arb.umn.edu/plant-rescues Photo Credits: UMN Landscape Arboretum (1), Sarah Heidtke (2,3,,4),Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/pincushion-cactus (5)

< Back Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis): A Plant to Dye For / With! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Ever wonder why Blue Wild Indigo is nicknamed “False Indigo.” Read the answer to this question and more about why you should consider this hardy native for a spot in your sunny garden. “Any flower this intense a blue must be good for dyes. It must be indigo!” or so thought early European settlers coming to the Eastern Seacoast and meeting Baptisia australis . Alas, the plant proved inferior to the real thing as a dye—Blue Indigo or Indigofera sp. Thus, it acquired its alternate name of False Indigo. Nonetheless, the intense blue bloom of blue wild Indigo justifies your adding it to your garden, even if you aren’t into textile dying! Blue wild indigo is found across the upper and Mid-Atlantic seaboard, extending into the Midwest. It grows well in dry to medium well-drained soil in full sun. It will tolerate part-shade but does get a bit spindly. It tends to form in expanding clumps which put down deep roots—thus, its tolerance of drought and poor soils. However, it’s not a good idea to disturb the plant and its roots once established. The plants can get three to four feet tall and spread out a similar length so some folks will trim them after blooming. This helps keep a more rounded shape but at the expense of removing the seed pods which form. These fellows are a delight! The pods can be 2 to 3 inches long, turning a charcoal black. The seeds are loose in the pod so they make a great rattle. If you aren’t into that, the cut stems and seed pods can make a striking addition to dried flower arrangements. Blue wild indigo can be grown from seed, but this is a slow process. Blooming usually doesn’t occur for several years. Baptisia australis is an herbaceous perennial. It is hardy from Zones 3 to 9 so it should be good to go throughout Minnesota. It usually blooms during May and June and attracts a number of pollinators, especially butterflies. It does well as a back border or a naturalizer in prairies or meadows. It is a tough customer with few insect or disease problems. It is, however sensitive to juglone, that antisocial chemical secreted by walnut trees, so don’t plant blue indigo around them. Otherwise, blue wild indigo can be a beautiful, low maintenance addition to your garden. Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Sustainable Gardening Clean Up Practices Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener As the summer growing season comes to an end, we in the gardening community know our work is not quite done. With the end of the season comes the start of the next, and before you know it, it's already time to clean up your garden. Before you start this necessary process, consider how a few simple sustainable practices can help support your garden’s long-term health while helping local systems thrive. Why do sustainable practices matter? They can help reduce your overall garden waste. They address some of the environmental impacts of conventional cleanup. They improve soil health. They help with biodiversity in your area, bugs and critters alike. Leave the Leaves (Strategically) Mulch . One of the best things you can do with your fall leaf litter is to turn it into useful mulch. Mulching is the process of breaking down dried fall leaves into small parts. This helps leaves break down easier and can promote soil and lawn health. Mulch can be used for insulating flower beds and it helps key nutrients return into the soil. Mulching leaves can be done with specific lawnmowers or electric leaf shredders, but there are also some easy to do free alternatives. You can stomp them in a trash bag, use gardening shears, or even run them over with a car . One recent study from the University of Wisconsin found that using 2-5 inches of mulched leaves for winter lawn cover resulted in greener grass throughout the summer and resulted in fewer weeds than unmulched leaves . Another benefit of leaving leaf litter strategically around your yard is the shelter they provide beneficial insects like pollinators . Multiple insects like bees, butterflies, and moths use remnants of your garden to overwinter in. Leaving some areas with leaf piles, dead plant stems, and even tree bark can provide beneficial insects with the necessary cover to survive the winter. Cut Plants Back Selectively It can be tempting to cut back your plants (perennials and shrubs) every fall, but leaving some plant material standing, like dead plant stems, leaves, and even flowers, can provide additional nutrients to your gardens. In addition, leaving flower heads behind is beneficial not just to your garden’s bug population but the local birds as well. Coneflowers, sunflowers, and other prairie flowers provide seeds to birds throughout the winter. Leaving them up can provide them with a good food source, and a habitat source for small creatures. Also, if you do need to cut these plants back, consider cutting the top two-thirds down; some insects specifically overwinter in the bottom one-third of the plant stalk . However, it is always recommended to cut dead or diseased plants to remove any infestation entirely. Pollinator Compost Smarter Composting piles are a good way to turn plant materials and more, into usable mulch that can provide great nutrients back to your plants! Composting is the process of letting natural occurring processes break down plant and yard waste resulting in a great soil amendment or mulch. Besides grass and leaves, many other organic materials are compostable, such as: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Nonwoody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds Taking the time to build or buy a structure to start a compost pile can produce faster and more thorough composting, getting more benefits from your garden leftovers. While composting can seem hard to learn, this guide from the University of Minnesota, can provide a better understanding of how to start your own! Reuse Garden Waste Creatively If your garden cleanup consists of more wood-based debris, or you have any woody invasives, consider using those leftover materials to either make a brush pile for smaller animals or make a natural trellis! Making a brush pile can be great as it provides natural protection for small animals , such as songbirds, small mammals, and even foxes or skunks ! In addition, as the brush decays it will also provide great nutrients for insects, which are a great food source for other animals like birds and small mammals . Small brush piles stacked strategically could even be used as a good shelter for small saplings from deer ! To build one, start with larger branches or logs as a base and then add smaller branches on top. Besides brush piles, larger branches and bendable sticks can be used to make a trellis for any of your climbing garden plants ! This offers a fun DIY opportunity to make use of every part of your garden! These good gardening practices, as you clean up your garden, can make a big difference for your local ecosystem. This fall, bring your garden into balance with nature by trying a few of these tricks yourself! Photo Credits: https://atlaslawnandsnow.com (1,2), https://source.roboflow.com (3), https://images.rawpixel.com (4)

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but as an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes and a great natural fertilizer! Read this article for more information about how to use the familiar and fun pumpkin. Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)

< Back Braiding Sweetgrass – Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and Teachings of Plants Gail Maifeld Braiding Sweetgrass, by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Patawatomi citizen community. She shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their surroundings. Braiding Sweetgrass , by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Citizen Patawatomi Nation. Braiding Sweetgrass is a book of essays on Native folkways with plants and their roles in human life. It was originally published in 2013 and was reissued in 2020 with new illustrations. In her book, Kimmerer shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their natural environment. The reader is introduced to Skywoman, who tells the story of sweet grass which, in Anishinaabe belief, was the first plant to grow on earth. Sweetgrass holds a “sacred role” and represents an important component of “global ecosystems,” which gives rise to the possibility of a positive relationship between humans and the natural environment. Man should listen to Skywoman rather than the monster Windigo that speaks to us to consume. Man should learn from the indigenous peoples who learned from watching plants, trees and water interact - how plants support each other, how the roots of the cottonwood tree support the shoreline and how cattails purify the water. Kimmerer combines heritage with the knowledge of native peoples and science. How would you be feeling if you couldn’t speak your native language? Eat familiar native foods? Wear native clothing? As a member of the Patawatomi Nation, Kimmerer shares the beauty and necessity of native language and tradition. Native storytelling is a tradition that illustrates the delicate layering of science and culture. Storytelling focuses on a balance between environmental passions and science. If you are yearning for a book of optimism about humans’ relationship with the environment in a world on fire, Braiding Sweetgrass is for you. Or, as a book of gratitude toward nature and a culture of reciprocity toward nature, Braiding Sweetgrass will soothe your soul. Photo Credit: Braiding Sweetgrass Book Cover (1)

< Back Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata): A Beauty with Many Names Jim Lakin, MD Master Gardener Are you looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden? Consider Spotted Horsemint. This native is valuable to pollinators as it attracts butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. It will look great in your garden as a border or mass planting. It seems like the prettier and more agreeable the plant the more names it collects. This is certainly true of Monarda punctata. She’s called Dotted or Spotted Horsemint, Dotted or Spotted Bee Balm or sometimes just Bee Balm to be confused with true Bee Balm ( Monarda fistulosa) that we talked about last month. I point this out not just to prove that Linnaeus was right to assign unpronounceable Latin names to everything that grows. To make certain you’re getting the right plant, be sure to select Monarda punctata when you are looking for spotted horsemint in your local nursery or seed catalogue. When you do get the real thing, you’ll be acquiring a hardy perennial herbaceous that is native to Eastern and Central North America all the way up to Zone 3a. This should tell you it’s a pretty tough customer in addition to being a showy addition to your summer garden. From July through September, it produces yellowish to purple-spotted 3-to-6-inch flowers in whorls on a densely packed elongated spike. Below the flowers, large, purplish leaf-like bracts set off the arrangement. Being a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, spotted horsemint puts out runners to form fairly large clumps if left to its own devices. It is not considered to be too aggressive, however. Plants tend to grow to about 1 to 2 feet, occasionally taller. You should space them out by 12 to 24 inches when planting. It is important to allow for air circulation among the plants as they are susceptible to powdery mildew and rust. However, this usually occurs late in the season after flowering. If it is a cosmetic problem, prune the affected stems. Spotted horsemint likes full sun but will put up with part shade (direct sunlight for 2-6 hours per day). It does best in loam, silt or sandy soil which can be an issue here in our clay-ridden Minnesota soil, although I’ve not found that to be too great a problem with Monarda . As you would expect, it is found in the wild in prairies, sandy areas, rocky woodlands and coastal plains. It will even self-seed in almost pure sand. The prairie strains at least are fairly drought resistant. Spotted horsemint is of substantial value to the native wildlife attracting a plethora of butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. Happily, it is not a valuable food source for deer or rabbits who tend to leave it alone unless things are getting desperate. So, if you are looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden consider spotted horsemint. As a border or a mass planting, it does great! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Plantjourneys.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket

< Back Hang on to Summer – Salads (and More) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener As fall harvest season arrives, the challenge is to create or try new recipes to fully appreciate the array of tastes available to us. As always, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is ready with recipes, this time, salads that help us to hang on to summer. And just to make sure that you use the abundant apple crop available to us now, she provides a scrumptious apple-centered dessert bar. Let your mouth water while reading these delicious recipes. Happy days are here again, the skies above are clear again, let us sing a song of cheer again, happy days are here again! As fall harvest season approaches, I think of those old song lyrics because harvest time comes around every year and it’s always fun, exciting, involves lots of work, and often puts our creativity to the test when the broccoli, kale, cabbage and apples challenge us with, “how are you going to make use of us in a new way this year?” Yes, my veggies talk to me. At times they can be a bit snarky. Since September tends to be quite hot and dry, I am not thinking of fall soups or hot casseroles pulled steaming from the oven, fogging your glasses, and making your mascara run. I’m still in salad mode. My motto is, “if you can hear crickets, it’s still summer!” Here are two delicious salad recipes that use apples, peppers, cabbage, snow peas, broccoli, and green onions to assist you with answering the challenge to make tasty, creative dishes from your abundant garden produce. If the rabbits ate your snow peas (like they did to mine, right through the fence!), you are still the salad queen even if you purchase ingredients at a farmer’s market or grocery store. Chicken, Apple and Cabbage Salad Ingredients: Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette (recipe below) 3 large apples, cut into bite sized pieces 6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (can also use Napa) 1 cup very thinly sliced red cabbage 1 yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced 2 cups snow peas, trimmed and cut in half if they are big 4 cups shredded or cubed cooked chicken (I use a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store) Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette: Whisk together 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce (which of course you’ve already made from your early apples), 3 TBSP soy sauce, 3 TBSP apple cider vinegar, 2 TBSP light olive oil, 2 TBSP dark sesame oil and 1 Tsp grated fresh ginger in a small bowl. Makes about 1 cup. 1) Prepare Apple-Soy Vinaigrette and place about 4 TBSP in a medium bowl. Core and cut up apples into bite sized pieces and toss in vinaigrette to coat (this will help prevent the apples from browning). 2) Combine green cabbage, red cabbage, bell pepper and snow peas in a large serving bowl or platter. Add remaining vinaigrette, tossing to coat. Add apples and chicken and gently toss. Broccoli-Apple Salad Ingredients: 6 cups broccoli florets 6 TBSP Mayonnaise 6 TBSP plain yogurt (you can also use sour cream or a mix of the two) 2 TBSP sugar 2 TBSP hot sauce ½ tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 6 medium apples 3 green onions 1 medium hot banana pepper cut into tiny cubes (can use any hot pepper or leave this out if you’re not into heat) 2/3 cup dried cranberries 2/3 cup toasted sunflower seeds 1) Blanch broccoli in boiling water for 1-2 minutes until bright green. Drain and rinse with cool water. Set aside. 2) Combine mayonnaise, yogurt, sugar, hot sauce, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. 3) Core and chop apples; add to mayonnaise mixture. 4) Stir in broccoli, green onions, cranberries, and sunflower seeds; toss to coat and serve or refrigerate until serving time. Pecan Apple Bars These nutty apple bars are a favorite with everyone I’ve served them to. At the last party, I’d cut the bars into large pieces knowing that these are so good, everyone would want a large piece. The hostess cut them into smaller pieces thinking there wouldn’t be enough to go around. I was fine with that; it was her buffet after all. However, I did notice that almost everyone went back for another bar or two! Ingredients: 4 apples – I used Pizzaz and Honeycrisp ½ cup sugar, divided 1 TBSP Cornstarch 1 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp lemon juice 2 cups flour 1/3 cups finely chopped pecans (you can also use walnuts or a combination) 1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 cup butter, melted 1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter an 8- or 9-inch baking pan. 2) Peel, core and chop apples into small pieces, place in a large bowl. Stir in ¼ cup sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Set aside. 3) Combine remining ¼ cup sugar, flour, pecans, brown sugar, and butter in a large bowl Stir until well blended. Transfer 2/3 of this mixture to the prepared baking dish and press into the bottom evenly. 4) Bake 15 minutes. 5) Remove baking dish from oven and spoon apple mixture and all the liquid evenly over the baked, hot crust. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1/3 of the crust mixture. 6) Bake 35 minutes or until golden brown. 7) Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into squares. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Fall Planting Tips Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Fall is a great time for planting! Fall is a great time for planting! As long as you water consistently until the ground freezes–and continue to water again in early spring–your new trees, shrubs and perennials will take hold nicely. Planting in the fall avoids risks of mid-summer drought and heat stress that can decimate young or transplanted foliage. You can also find some great bargains at your local garden centers. Check out these tips for successful fall planting. Enjoy the fruits of your labor next spring by enhancing your landscapes and garden beds this fall. The key to success is consistently watering these plants until the ground freezes in mid- to late November. Step 1: Walk through your yard with a critical eye. Take notes and photos of areas that would benefit from moving things around or adding some fresh new plant material. Are there holes to be filled? Are there weeks when nothing is blooming? Are there overgrown or declining shrubs and plants that should be replaced? Step 2: Fall is a great time to dig and divide most perennials. And it’s the only time to divide peonies and other spring bloomers. Make a list of plants that are too large for their current space. Decide where to place them based on light, water and soil requirements. Remember, some perennials will take several years to return to full bloom and size after you transplant or split them. Step 3: Aim for early fall to plant new Zone 4 perennials, shrubs and trees (it’s best to avoid pushing to Zone 5 in fall). This allows plenty of time for roots to become established before winter, and they’ll be ready to grow early next spring. How about some instant gratification with new fall color from sugar maples, ginkgoes, burning bushes or other fall-blooming plants? Adding a thick layer (at least 4 inches) of mulch under new trees and shrubs will hold moisture and reduce winter injury. Step 4: Consider planting some spring-blooming bulbs–any time until the ground is frozen. Pair the bulbs with perennials that will fill in the space by late spring or early summer. That way, your bulbs can die back without becoming an eyesore in the garden. Step 5: If you have a vegetable garden, fall is the time to harvest and then direct seed a fall cover crop like ryegrass, rye, rapeseed, oats winter wheat or winter rye. Cover crops improve soil fertility and reduce erosion from winds and rain. Finally, visit your local nursery or garden center for great deals on trees, shrubs and perennials for fall planting. Enjoy! For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Upper Midwest home garden care calendar | UMN Extension How and when to divide perennials | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Virginia Creeper: Groundcover and Climber Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a native vine as ground cover in a shady area? Do you want it to cover a tree, a rock wall or an unsightly outbuilding? As explained in this article, Virginia Creeper may be the plant for you. Not only is it versatile, it has many virtues including a beautiful rosy color in the fall. Few native vines are as versatile as Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) . Do you want a ground cover in a shady area? It’ll do it. Do you want a vine to cover an unsightly outbuilding? It’s at your service! This native workhorse goes by a number of labels, including Virginia creeper, Victoria creeper, Five-Leaved Ivy, or Five-Finger. Virginia Creeper is a species of flowering vine in the grape family, Vitaceae and native to eastern and central North America. It’s commonly found in our own Minnesota woods. It’s not to be confused with Boston ivy, a Japanese import covering the hallowed halls of the Ivy League and Wrigley Field. The latter is invasive and not nearly as decorative as our own native son. Virginia creeper is easy to grow. It is happy in full sun or deep shade in most any well drained soil. Although it seems to prefer a moist, acidic soil. Given time it can grow as long as 50 feet. As it grows by tendrils with adhesive disks at their ends, Virginia creeper can stick itself to whatever it is growing on. So, it can cover almost anything without benefit of a trellis. If you have a low-value tree in the landscape it is perfectly at home growing up its trunk or limbs. We have it growing up a flood light post to great effect. As mentioned above, it also can act as a fine ground cover on a difficult, steep slope. In addition to its versatility and durability, Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a very showy plant, creating a wonderful cloak of green during the spring and summer which turns a fiery red in the fall. Fall also brings a show of blue-black berries which are inedible for us but an important source of energy for birds beginning their migration southward. Another ecological plus is the rich nectar produced by its modest green-white flowers. It is greatly favored by both bees and hummingbirds. Virginia creeper is usually available in most nurseries. There are a couple of cultivars commonly found in the trade: “Star Showers” which has a variegated foliage and “Yellow Wall” whose foliage turns yellow in the fall rather than the red of the species. Either cultivars or species should perform well in most all of Minnesota. Photo Credits: University of Wisconsin-Madison (1,2)

< Back Beware Garlic Mustard in Early Spring Garlic Mustard may be edible and tasty but unless you are planning to cook with it, you will not want it growing in your yard. One of the first weeds to appear in the spring, Garlic Mustard is a noxious weed that is difficult to get rid of. Read this article to learn how to identify Garlic Mustard and how to control it. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener While working in my rain garden one Fall, planting tulips and other spring bulbs, I discovered a new patch of unknown plants growing that I knew I had not planted. And it smelled like garlic when I pulled it out – but it sure didn’t look like the garlic I grow. I recalled someone talking about Garlic Mustard and based on the pictures and description I found on the University of Minnesota Extension garden website ( UMN Extension - Garlic Mustard ), determined that was my newest garden challenge. Despite sounding like something delicious (and it can be used to cook), Garlic Mustard is on the MN Department of Agriculture’s Noxious Weed list . Garlic Mustard is allelopathic, sending out chemicals that cause the reduced growth of nearby plants. It is challenging to eradicate. However, knowing its lifecycle can help you manage it ( Garlic Mustard Lifecycle graphic ). It is a biennial, which means during the first year, green vegetation growth occurs, with heart-shaped leaves that grow in a rosette format. In the second year, Garlic Mustard shoots up a stalk, 1 to 4 feet with serrated leaves and produces flowers and then seeds. The flowers are small, white, and have four petals. Seeds are produced in black oblong capsules with a single row of seeds. There can be over 100 seeds released by one plant and they can survive in the soil for five years. Controlling Garlic Mustard takes perseverance. It is one of the first plants to emerge in the spring and the green leaves make it easy to find. Handpulling the plants is an option however, it is important to pull out the entire root. The Garlic Mustard root is a long, slender tap with an S-shaped end that makes it difficult to pull out fully. Disposing of the plants must be done correctly to avoid spreading it further. If you pull out plants that are flowering, you need to make sure to bag the plants as they can still produce seeds for several days. The pulled plants should remain on site to decay naturally, according to the Noxious Weed List information. And it is illegal to put them in garbage bins (Minnesota Statute 115A.931). Some chemicals, such as those that have triclopyr (Garlon) or glyphosate, have been effective especially when carefully applied in early spring or late fall before Garlic Mustard flowers. Despite being a noxious weed, Garlic Mustard is actually edible and tasty. You can make pesto, soups, quiches, salads, cakes, and more ( Garlic Mustard Recipes ). Make sure you are harvesting it safely and legally, for example, avoid roadside ditches that may have been treated with pesticides. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/garlic-mustard#disposal-2997812 (1,2,3)