< Back Growing Plants Without Soil Although the last few winter months hang on, the hours of daylight continue to lengthen and many of us, including the little ones in our lives, are itching to see green. Green grass. Green leaves. Any new green growth. But even with a desire to have living, green plants around us and in our homes, some kids just aren’t excited about gardening. One reason may be that they don’t like the feel of soil or getting dirty. If this sounds like a kiddo in your life, read on to learn how to grow lovely green things while staying warm, and relatively clean, inside. Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener When it comes to growing plants indoors, there are many options, including soilless methods. These soilless methods are especially good for kids who are interested in plants, and like the idea of gardening, but just don’t like to get their hands dirty. If this sounds like a child you know, some options that may work for them include growing from seed, propagation, or re-growing plants from scraps of vegetables and fruits in your home. Starting from Seed Starting plants from seed can be done in different ways. It can be done using plastic bags and paper towels, in eggshells with wool cloth, or in used yogurt containers and coffee filters. No matter which option you and your budding gardener(s) choose, know that these plants will eventually need to be transferred into soil in larger containers if you want the magic to continue. An easy seed starting activity, and one with quick germination (sprouting from a seed) and very few materials, is starting seeds or legumes in a plastic bag. All that is required are a plastic resealable bag, a paper towel, a few staples, 3-4 lentils (1-7 days for germination) or lima beans (7-18 days for germination), and some water. First, soak the legumes for a few hours until the coating starts to change texture. While they are soaking, fold a paper towel to fit the entire width of the plastic bag. Next, dampen the paper towel, but drain any excess water from the bag as too much water may make the legumes rot. Next, put a few staples through both sides of the bag and the paper towel. These staples will create a nice ledge for the legumes to rest on and give everyone a better view of the roots as they grow. When the soaking is complete, place the legumes inside the bag and on top of the staples. Finally, seal the bag and tape it to a window in a sunny location. If the window is cold, find a warm sunny place to leave the bag. Depending on the type of legume you chose, bean or lentil, you could see growth as early as a day, but more realistically, it could be closer to a week, depending on the growing conditions. Propagation If, instead of starting from seed, you decide you would like to try propagation, the easiest option for going soilless is using plant cuttings. Plant cuttings can be placed right into water without the need for rooting hormones. Some types of plants that are easily propagated in water are pothos, philodendron, monstera, and jade. If you don’t have any houseplants of your own, try asking a neighbor or a friend. Chances are, someone close to you has a plant they are willing to let you take a cutting from. When you take a cutting from a plant, you want to pay special attention to the nodes. These are the parts of a plant that look like a juncture, the spot on a stem off of which a leaf grows. When propagating, it is important to have a couple of nodes and a couple of the topmost leaves. Too many leaves and the nutrients will go toward keeping the leaves healthy instead of growing roots. Too few leaves and there won’t be enough left for photosynthesis to take place. If you are using a cutting from a jade plant, follow the previous instructions. However, leave more of the leaves on the stem - 6-10, depending on the size of the cutting. Also, let the cutting sit out for a few days to let the stem callous. This makes it less likely for any rot to set in. When you are done prepping your cutting, find a clear drinking glass or jam jar. Clear glasses and jars allow you to watch your new plant’s roots grow! When you place your plant in water, make sure none of the leaves are touching the water or submerged. This will cause your leaves to rot, thus damaging your plant. Re-Growing The last method of soilless gardening discussed in this article is the re-growing of fruits and vegetables from either leftover scraps or produce that may be past their prime. Not all fruits and vegetables can be re-grown, but romaine lettuce, celery, and even avocados are prime examples of produce that have the ability to re-grow. If you are re-growing romaine lettuce or celery, simply cut off the stalks 1-2 inches from the base. Put the cut side up in a clear glass or bowl and fill the vessel with water, making sure to keep the base submerged. Change the water out every few days. Please note that browning to the cut side of these plants is normal. In addition, the warmer and sunnier the spot you choose for your plant the better it will do. Within a week, you and your little ones should see new celery and/or lettuce growing from the cut side. If re-growing an avocado seed, wash and dry the seed. Place 3-4 toothpicks or wooden skewers into the sides of the seed. Rest the toothpicks on the rim of a jar or clear glass, making sure the pointed part of the seed faces up and the flatter end rests partially in the vessel. Fill the vessel with warm water, making sure water is always touching the bottom of the seed. Change the water every few days. Just like with lettuce and celery, the warmer and sunnier the location, the happier your plant will be. Here’s hoping the little ones in your lives enjoy some soilless gardening indoors. Please remember, at some point all of these plants should be transferred to soil. For more information on that, check out the University of Minnesota Extension resources regarding propagation. Resources : Gardening Lab for Kids by: Renata Fossen Brown Get Growing by: Holly Farrell https://www.thespruce.com/jade-plant-propagation-7371399 https://www.gardentech.com/blog/gardening-and-healthy-living/growing-food-from-kitchen-scraps https://www.ruralsprout.com/regrow-vegetables/ Photo Credit: ruralsprout.com (all creative commons)(1), lifeovercs.com (2), lovethatleaf.co.nz (3), pexels.com (4)

< Back Gai Lan: The Versatile Chinese Broccoli Expand your vegetable choices with Gai lan. Also known as Chinese broccoli, Gai lan is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. It is a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. Read this article to learn more about this healthy and flavorful vegetable. Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Gai lan, also known as Chinese broccoli, is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. Its scientific name is Brassica oleracea var. alboglabra , making it a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. What is Gai Lan! Gai lan is a cruciferous vegetable with thick, glossy, blue-green leaves, thick and juicy stems and small, yellow or white flower buds. It is also commonly known as Chinese broccoli, Chinese kale, gai lan, kie lan, jie lan, guy lon at Asian markets. Unlike the large head of common broccoli, gai lan is harvested as individual stems. Its flavor is a fascinating blend of bitter and sweet, with a satisfying crunch depending on harvest time. The entire plant, including the leaves, stems, and flower buds, is edible and highly nutritious. Gardening with Gai Lan! Similar to many of its relatives, gai lan prefers cooler growing conditions and will bolt during high heat conditions. Gai lan can be started inside and transplanted in spring for an early summer harvest. Gai lan can also be a succession crop with direct seed in late July harvesting in late September and October. The crop prefers full sun, fertile and well-drained soils. But note - before the florets arrive or before it blooms, please harvest the crop. The stems are more tender, crispy and not as fibrous when harvested before the florets arrive. Usual harvest is the full stem with the leaves and florets. Cooking with Gai Lan! Gai lan is an excellent source of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate, calcium, and iron. All parts of the vegetables from stem, leaves, and flowers are edible for dishes. It is a very versatile vegetable that can be stir fried, blanched, steamed and garnished in soup to name a few options. In a chinese restaurant and during dim sum, people may come across gai lan in a cantonese style where it is blanched and drizzled with oyster sauce. Clean gai lan like any other greens, removing the bottom portion of the stem that is appearing tough. Leverage a vegetable peeler for extra thick and tough skins at the bottom of the stem. For big stems, feel free to halve them before cooking. For leaves, discard any thick, wilted, and any leaves that are not dark green. For the buds, individuals can choose to keep or remove per personal preference. A few referenced recipes are below from the Tufts University: Cantonese Gai Lan Stir Fry Chinese Broccoli and Shiitake Rice Stir Fry Sauteed Chinese Broccoli with Garlic Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli If you haven’t already done so, expand your culinary horizons and try Gai lan for a tasty and healthy meal. Resource Links: Tuft University - basic information https://nesfp.nutrition.tufts.edu/world-peas-food-hub/world-peas-csa/produce-recipes/chinese-broccoli#:~:text=Chinese%20broccoli%20has%20broad%20blue,with%20a%20sometimes%20spicy%20flavor . Australia Horticulture: Asian Vegetables - basic information https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/commodity-growing-guides/asian-vegetables/g-l/gai-lan-embrassica-oleracea-var.-alboglabraem Singapore plant details - more information about Plant https://gardeningsg.nparks.gov.sg/page-index/edible-plants/kai-lan/?hl=en-US Mygardenlife: facts about growing the vegetable https://mygardenlife.com/plant-library/guy-lon-chinese-broccoli-brassica-oleracea-var-alboglabra Photo Credits: Vida Dam (1,2) www.artofit.org (3)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): A survivor for All Seasons Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Eastern Red Cedar is a beautiful and tenacious native tree that grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. It is a towering and long-lived tree and is an important food source for birds and mammals. Read this article to learn more about this important native tree. Sometimes, something starts growing somewhere and something inside you says “Let it be.” That’s how I came to gain the acquaintance of Eastern Red Cedar as it popped up beside a boulder on the slope of our west lawn. Rather than pull it out, I watched it struggle, overcome and become the beautiful tree that now graces the west side of our home. Like so many natives, it is a very tenacious fellow and grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. So, it does well through Zone 4. Mature red cedar The tree is known variously as Virginia juniper, eastern juniper or red juniper. Although a slow grower, red cedar can reach as high as 60 feet - although in poor soils it may remain no more than a bush. It assumes a pyramidal or cylindrical shape with reddish brown bark and green needle like leaves. It is a dioecious species (boy and girl trees) with the male pollinating and the female forming dark purple berry-like seed cones. These berries form an important food source for many birds such as cedar waxwings, turkeys and bluebirds during the winter months. A number of small mammals such as rabbits, foxes, raccoons and coyotes also feed off red cedar berries. The tree is a long lived with a several hundred-year life-span, if undisturbed. red cedar berries Red cedar is a pioneer species and will be seen early on in fire ravaged areas. But, a cautionary note - owing to its adaptability and perseverance, it can be invasive and has radically changed the ecology of some grasslands. Also, it acts as alternate host for cedar-apple rust, a potentially destructive fungus for apple trees. Consequently, you might want to keep red cedar away from nearby apple orchards. There are many distinct cultivars of Juniperus virginiana, which you might expect given its vast native range. A recent book by Laurence Hatch* does a masterful job of differentiating and describing them. Whatever cultivar you choose, you will be treated to a tough, faithful coniferous companion for many years. *Hatch, L., Cultivars of Woody Plants: Juniperus virginiana and scopulorum, A cultivar.org Garden Monograph, Cary, NC, 2023. Photo Credits: Farmartin, Wikipedia (1), Humoyun Mehridinov, Wikipedia (2)

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)

< Back Wild Bergamot, the Bees’ Delight Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner Watching bees and butterflies hovering over lavender-topped Wild Bergamot on a quiet summer afternoon is a delightful moment. It is just one of the reasons to include this native plant in your garden. Read this article to learn more about the environmental benefits and other charms of this beautiful plant. There are a number of varieties of Monarda fistulosa , differing in their color and odor. As you might imagine it is a popular source of nectar for bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as well as being a larval host for the orange mint moth and the hermit sphinx moth. It has been widely used as a medicinal plant by Native Americans and indeed it is high in thymol, an organic compound with antimicrobial properties. Bergamot grows fairly easily in any good garden soil in full sun to partial shade. Clumps of plants divide easily. It can be grown from seed although stratification (exposure to damp cold air) for a month helps. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) although it is not terribly invasive. Bergamot forms clumps which can reach 4 feet. It works nicely as a perennial border but it is at its best in a natural landscape or in a prairie restoration, blooming in late summer. That blooming produces lipped, light to dark lavender purple flowers, arranged in a whorl around a rounded flower head. The seed heads will hold into the winter providing visual interest as well as distinctive bergamot aroma. Speaking of aroma, being a native herb, the dried or macerated leaves can be boiled to produce a fragrant tea. It usually is quite hardy, although Wild Bergamot does tend to develop mildew on the leaves in late summer. This is a purely cosmetic issue and not one to warrant a chemical onslaught. Instead, relax and enjoy bergamot’s showy flowers and swarms of colorful, intriguing insects. Photo credit: My Patriot Supply (1), Jeff Fleming (2) & Julie Harris (3)

< Back How to Choose a Tomato Plant for Your Garden The long, hot, sunny days of Minnesota summers are great for growing tomatoes and Minnesotans love to grow their own fresh tomatoes. This is the first in a series the Garden Buzz will be featuring on all things tomato. Our topic this month is choosing the right tomatoes for your needs. Choosing a tomato plant can be confusing and involve time consuming searches through hundreds of varieties looking for the right one for you. Hopefully, this article will help you wade through your options. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener The long, hot, sunny days of Minnesota summers are great for growing tomatoes and Minnesotans love to grow their own fresh tomatoes. But choosing a tomato plant can be confusing and involve time consuming searches through hundreds of varieties looking for the right one for you. For example, here are just some of the options you have to pick from: Determinate or indeterminate? Heirloom or hybrid? Disease resistant or disease tolerant? Big, with little tomatoes already growing, or small, not even flowers? We will wade through all these questions and help you decide the best tomato plant for YOU. First, how are you going to use your tomatoes? Salads, sandwiches, cooking, preserving and easy fresh eating all have preferred varieties. For salads and sandwiches choose large, juicy varieties like Beefsteak , Brandywine , Better Boy or Cherokee Purple . For cooking and preserving choose meaty, low-water-content varieties that ripen all at once, such as Roma , San Marzano , or Amish Paste . For easy, fresh eating choose sweet, bite-sized cherry or grape tomatoes like Sun Gold or Super Sweet 100 . Photo Credit: www.davenportgarden.com Brandywine tomato Second, how much space do you have? Tomato plants have two main growth habits: Determinate or bush growth and indeterminate or vining growth. Bush tomatoes grow to a predetermined, compact height - around 3-4 feet, produce most of their fruit within a short period of time - 4-6 weeks, then stop producing. They are best for small spaces, containers and/or gardeners who want a large harvest all at once, for example, for canning. Bush tomatoes also include cherry tomato plants, such as the varieties Toy Boy and Small Fry . Vining tomatoes grow and produce fruit continuously until frost. They are best for large gardens and gardeners who want a steady stream of fresh tomatoes. These tomatoes all require support, like tall stakes or cages. Popular varieties include Big Beef , Beefsteak and Sweet 100s . Photo Credit: www.3porchfarm.com Big beef bush tomato Third: Heirloom or hybrid? Heirloom tomatoes are historical tomatoes (that is, “open pollinated” tomatoes meaning they can reproduce true to type). These are tomatoes that have been grown since before 1940 and their seeds saved and passed down through the years. Some heirlooms date back to the Aztecs, such as the Zapotec tomato. Photo Credit: farmhandseeds.com a Zapotec tomato Heirlooms tend to have thinner skins, more colors and flavor than hybrid varieties. Irregular shapes, sizes, and multi-colored or marbled skins characterize heirloom tomatoes. Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter are two highly recommended heirloom varieties. They are especially recommended for people who have not grown heirlooms before. Hybrid tomatoes are cross-bred and bred for specific traits. They tend to be uniform in size, disease resistant and with thicker skins - which means they can be transported long distances safely to parts of the country without access to fresh tomatoes. Popular hybrid varieties include Better Boy , Better Bush and Early Girl . Master Gardeners have been busy conducting seed trials and evaluating tomatoes since 1982. They have their own list of recommended varieties. Their criteria: flavor, disease and insect resistance, productivity and germination rate. Their list of best tomatoes: Brandymaster Red : one parent a hybrid and the other parent an heirloom Brandymaster Pink : one parent a hybrid and the other parent an heirloom) Brandy Boy : hybrid combining Brandywine with another, unnamed variety - developed by Burpee) (2nd place tie) Genuwine and Big Brandy : heirloom marriage tomatoes, tomatoes with two heirloom parents (4th place tie) Brandywine : heirloom tomato Early Spring : heirloom tomato For a list of places to buy heirloom tomatoes and/or seedlings go to: Seed Savers Exchange or https://www.google.com/Heirloom+tomatoes+Where+to+buy Fourth: Do you want disease resistant tomatoes? Consider how important disease resistant varieties are to you. If this is very important you probably want to consider hybrid tomatoes. A resistant variety will not become diseased. On the other hand, a tolerant variety may become diseased, but the spread of the disease will be slower and the disease will be less serious. Hybrid varieties with disease resistance are indicated by letters on the label: V = Verticillium wilt; F = Fusarium wilt; N = nematodes; T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus. Some disease resistant and tolerant varieties recommended by Cornell University’s breeding program are: Iron Lady , Stellar , Brandywine , Summer Sweetheart and Plum Perfect. And Last: What to look for when choosing the actual seedling or plant. Choose sturdy, stocky plants up to 1 foot tall with thick stems (pencil thickness) and bright green evenly spaced leaves. Avoid plants that are tall and lanky, have spots, or already have flowers or fruit. They may be stressed or root bound. Hopefully you will find this information helpful in choosing a tomato plant that suits YOUR needs. Enjoy! REFERENCES https://ucanr.edu/blog/over-fence-alameda-county/article/choosing-tomato-varieties-best-your-garden Beginners Guide to Choosing the Best Tomato Varieties for your Garden, Feb 24, 2004; www.themakermakes.com Choosing Tomato Varieties Best for Your Garden | Over the Fence , Mar 9, 2024, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/master-gardener-seed-trials McKusick, Tom, Northern Gardner , https://northerngardener.org/day-27-favorite-heirloom-tomatoes/ https://www.burpee.com/heirloom/heirloom-tomatoes/?bp_mode=Plant https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties/new-york-adapted-tomatoes-with-resistance-to-multiple-fungal-and-bacterial-diseases-created-at-cornell/ https://vegvariety.cce.cornell.edu/main/login.php Photo Credits: www.davenportgarden.com (1), www.3porchfarm.com (2) , farmhandseeds.com (3)

< Back Junior Spring Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener CALLING ALL JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered how we know it is finally spring in Minnesota? After the long, cold days of our Minnesota’s winter, every child eagerly awaits the arrival of warm breezes, extended daylight and splashable puddles of spring. Help that child become a Junior Spring Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of spring’s arrival. Calling all Junior Spring Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are to prove spring has arrived in Minnesota. Once the clues are known, pull on your rain boots and head outside to observe the evidence of spring revealed in plants, trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your senses of sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste, you can solve the mystery of whether or not spring is here. CLUES Have you ever noticed how plants and animals suddenly emerge outside seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? The clues for the sudden change to spring are based on the fact that every plant needs air, light, water, nutrients and usually soil. When the plants appear, so do animals and other creatures. With nutrients in the soil present, look for the three clues for the presence of spring: Air. As spring begins, the Minnesota air temperatures increase from a chilly March average of 40.6’ F to a pleasant 70.1’ F in May. The warm air in turn gently heats up the ground where plants have been hiding all winter. Light. Spring brings longer days allowing our yards to bask in much needed sunlight. Daylight increases by a total of approximately 2 hours from February to May. Water. A Minnesota spring means the start of more rainfall. The month of May averages 3.24 inches of rain, in comparison to February’s rainfall average of a mere .79 inches. EVIDENCE Head outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of spring: warmer air, longer days and a puddle or two to splash with your boots! What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged spring to arrive? Plants. The mild air temperatures, longer days and spring showers push plants to grow through the warmed soil to receive even more warmth and light. Look for spring flowers, such as tulips, daffodils, creeping phlox, to display their bright and colorful blooms. Trees. Trees and bushes bud out gradually to appear on branches. Some trees and bushes, like magnolias, lilacs and forsythia, burst open their blossoms for a showy display around your neighborhood. Creatures. The arrival of spring invites the creatures in your yard to return from fall migration to the south, emerge from safe winter spots or awake from hibernation. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, trek back north to join the Minnesota skies in the spring. Butterflies, like the monarch, take a long two stage journey north after wintering in Mexico. https://journeynorth.org/projects Other animals, insects and birds remained in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or hunkering down under brush and evergreens. Now, they are venturing out for food found in the newly grown seeds and plants and the worms wiggling around in the warmed soil. With the food sources plentiful and more protective places to live, birds and animals mate during late winter or early spring. By the time their babies are born, Minnesota spring is in full swing. SOLVE Want to prove that spring has sprung in your Minnesota yard or park? Use the worksheet below to observe for a week if the three clues of spring are present and then gather evidence to prove that spring is really here! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects No Mow May: https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may Book recommendation: Goodbye Winter, Hello Spring by Kenard Pak is a beautifully illustrated children’s book exhibiting the season of winter slowly turning into spring. Borrow from the Dakota County Library ( ISBN: 9781250151728) or buy at Amazon CITATIONS https://cdn.agclassroom.org/mn/edu/garden/guide.pdf https://www.rssweather.com/climate/Minnesota/Minneapolis-St.Paul/ https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.minnesotanorthwoods.com/minnesota-is-for-the-birds-spring-bird-migration/ http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Insects/monarch.html https://www.monarchnet.org/spring-migration-ecology https://journeynorth.org/projects https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES For a week in May, observe whether the three spring clues are present and if there is enough evidence to show that spring has sprung. Use your senses of sight, hear, touch, smell and taste to collect the evidence. Sun Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat Clues Air Temp (mid day) Daylight (# hours between sunrise/set) Water/Rain **After completing the chart, ask if your findings show increased warmth, increased daylight time and some presence of rain (might be over a few weeks). If so, you know that spring is likely here in Minnesota. Collect evidence to support the spring clues, by heading outdoors to answer the following questions and using some of your senses: Do you see more birds, animals, butterflies and other creatures when you are outside? List what you see here. Do you hear birds chirping, animals chattering or insects buzzing when outside? Record what you hear here. Can you touch newly grown buds, leaves, blossoms and plants that have appeared in recent days/weeks? Jot down what you can touch. Can you smell the fragrances of new blossoms or new plants or the smell of the soil after a rainfall? Describe what you smell here. Do you see any creatures tasting the new buds, blossoms, seeds and leaves? Report what you observe here. Congratulations! You have solved the question of whether or not spring has arrived in Minnesota. You are now an official Junior Spring Garden Detective! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3,4) & Book Jacket (5)

< Back Junior Fall Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The blustery days of fall yield a kaleidoscope of leaves across our Minnesota yards and parks. Have your children ever wondered why these leaves transform to new colors in the fall? Help your child become a Junior Fall Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of why leaves change colors in the fall. Calling all Junior Fall Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are for why leaves convert from the summer color of green to red, orange, yellow, or brown shades as they fall to the ground. Once the clues are known, pull on your coziest sweatshirt and head outside to observe the evidence of fall leaves’ transformation, revealed in trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your observation skills, you can solve the mystery of why leaves are now changed to a new hue. CLUES Have you ever noticed how the leaves on the trees and bushes seem to suddenly turn from green to deep reds, yellows and oranges seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? Most of the year, the special chemical inside of leaves, called chlorophyll, gives leaves their green tint. The chlorophyll helps leaves absorb energy from sunlight during a process called photosynthesis , which converts the energy into sugar to feed the trees or plants. As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues for when leaves will begin to change color: Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. Daylight . From the start of school in early September until now in October, you probably have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. As the trees and plants get less sunlight, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. With less chlorophyll, yellow and orange color pigments replace the green color of summer. Sometimes darker red leaves appear as the sugar produced in the leaves stays in the leaves (instead of feeding the tree), because the tree has stopped its growth for the year. EVIDENCE Venture outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of fall to predict when the leaves will be changing colors: the cooler air at your soccer game requiring a need for your favorite sweater and the sun setting earlier over the horizon of the local lake. What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged the leaves to start transforming? Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south, or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Want to prove that the fall leaves have been changed due to the cooler air and shorter days? Bundle in a warm jacket and take a hike around your yard and neighborhood with your family or friends. Make sure to get outside during daylight as the sun sets earlier so you can accumulate the evidence of the leaves changing colors. Collect as many leaves as possible or help rake your yard. Notice all the beautiful colors! Have a contest : 1. Who gathered the most leaves? 2. Who picked up the most red/yellow/orange/brown leaves? Celebrate the results by making a leaf pile and jumping in it together! Activity : Find your favorite leaf from your collection. With the help of an adult, cut two equally measured squares of wax paper (about 1” larger than your chosen leaf). Insert the leaf between the two wax papers. With an iron on the lowest setting and a cloth over and underneath the wax papers, briefly hold the iron on the top cloth until the wax papers melt together. What a brilliant fall keepsake you have created! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects Read: Goodbye Summer, Hello Autumn by Kenard Pak ISBN: 9781627794152 (Dakota County Library) or buy at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goodbye-Summer-Hello-Autumn-Kenard/dp/1627794158 . A children’s book describing the clues and evidence discussed above for fall leaves. References https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/science-behind-fall-colors#:~:text=Our%20research%20showed%20that%20the,develop%20the%20pigments%20each%20fall. https://www.si.edu/stories/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/historical/annual.html https://journeynorth.org/projects Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1,2,3), Book Jacket (4)

< Back Pizza Anyone? Pizza Anyone? Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer (if you are already growing herbs), but throughout the year. Read on to learn how to grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer, but throughout the year. Introducing how to create the containers and then grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Pizza is one of the favorite foods of children and adults alike. What can be better than to help your children or grandchildren grow their own seasonings for their pizza? Basil, parsley and oregano can be started inside or outside and can be directly sown or grown from seed or a plant starter from a store. Supplies Needed: (3) terra cotta pots/saucers (4” or smaller) Small bag of potting soil Oregano, Basil, Parsley Seeds or Plants Plant Markers (purchased or create from craft sticks) Optional: acrylic paint, brushes Preparing the containers for planting: Choose three 4” clay terra cotta pots and saucers. Find colorful acrylic paints, small paint brushes and a cup of water for rinsing brushes. Painting the clay pots is optional, but it is a fun activity for kids/adults to be creative and decorate each herb container - it also adds a pop of color. The herb names (Basil, Oregano and Parsley) can also be painted onto the terra cotta pots. (Purchased labels can be used or simple labels can be created with craft sticks as well.) Paint or Decorate containers & labels as desired - let dry before planting (for the younger painters - use an old large t-shirt as a paint smock and cover surfaces) How to turn herb seeds/plant starters into pizza seasonings? Fill (3) terra cotta pots with potting soil - moisten with water and you are ready to plant Plant herb seeds (each herb in one container separately) as directed on package OR Plant herb starter plants into the terra cotta pots. Make a hole or opening in the soil and place the starter into the opening. Press soil around the starter plant. Mist the soil or water as needed (terra cotta pots can dry out quickly so monitor the moisture needed). Place containers in a sunny location outside or place in a bright window sill or under grow lights. 6 to 8 hours of sunlight is needed per day (8-12 hours if growing inside under a grow light) Monitor daily - keep seeds moist, but not too wet and monitor for germination Be patient and watch for signs of growth Once herbs are growing they may be pinched back so that they do not become leggy - harvesting can also help in keeping the plant happy and healthy Continue to harvest the herbs and use fresh on pizza - “Home Grown Herbs” - Yummy! (Herbs can also be dried and/or frozen (ex. - basil can be turned into a pesto and frozen) and can be used throughout the year.) Photo Credits : Photo 1, pearlspowder.blogspot.com (all creative commons) Photo 2, www.desperategardener.com (all creative commons) Photo 3, www.theidearoom.net (all creative commons) Photo 4, www.pxfuel.com (all creative commons)

< Back How To Identify Butterflies Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. But butterflies are also important pollinators. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. Read this article for important advice about how to identify the butterflies that you see. Why would you want to identify butterflies? They are worse than birds - always on the move and tiny too! First, few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. Second, they are important pollinators. Their immense diversity and ability to adapt to many environments - including mountain tops, rainforests and mangrove swamps - benefit plants because butterflies transfer pollen while feeding. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. For tools and tips that will help you identify butterflies, read on. Butterfly identification is hampered by the fact that butterflies often don’t stay still long enough for us to even whip out our field guides, let alone find whatever page the unknown butterfly might be on. Thank goodness for smart phone cameras. Snap a photo the second you see an unknown butterfly, before it even thinks of taking off. That way, if it does, at least you have something to help you identify it. If it doesn’t – you will learn to be faster. While the smart phone camera is one of the best tools for identifying butterflies, you will also find these tools useful: 1. A butterfly identification guide. My review of the butterfly guides at the Dakota County library and the MN Landscape Arboretum Gift shop suggests finding the right one is a tricky business. The big, fat guides listing all 170,500+ butterflies found in the world can be expensive. In addition, you are probably not interested in identifying every butterfly in the world because only about 160 of these - plus a few strays - ever visit Minnesota. For my reviews and recommendations of field guides click here . 2. Close focusing binoculars. Next to the smart phone camera, this tool has been the single greatest aid to field identification of butterflies. Consider getting them if you decide to get serious about butterfly identification and want to spend the money. For more information about them, click on this link. Ball-Reference for butterfly article .pdf Download PDF • 89KB All that said, it is OK not to be “serious” about butterfly identification. On the other hand, you may be in-between “serious” and not caring at all. About eighteen butterflies are commonly found in Minnesota. You may want to get to know all of those or maybe just a few. So, you may or may not want to spend money on close focusing binoculars. Start by trying to identify butterflies and see how it goes. Click here for images from the Minnesota Zoo of some of the most commonly seen butterflies in this area and here is information on the top commonly reported butterflies and moths in Minnesota. Here are some other useful things to know when trying to identify butterflies : Butterfly Anatomy : Look up photos of butterfly anatomy. Identification guides will refer to dorsal and ventricle wings, eyespots and other butterfly “parts”. If you do not know to what these terms refer, you won’t know what your field guide is talking about when it tells you that black swallowtails, a common butterfly seen in MN, have “tails”. Additionally, without this knowledge you will not have the vocabulary to note what you see. Where to find butterflies: · Sun preferences : Sun loving butterflies - like Monarchs and Viceroys - are usually found in bright, open spots like fields, pastures, parks, and roadsides. If you know someone with a butterfly garden, invite yourself over, or visit one of Minnesota’s pollinator gardens. (location in Minneapolis ; location in St. Paul ). Shade-loving butterflies, on the other hand, favor sheltered spots like forests and woodland edges, places with less sunlight. · Host plants : Every butterfly has a specific plant or plants where it deposits its larvae (caterpillars) - its “host plant”. The larvae feed on the host plant and subsequently turn into butterflies. Monarchs, for example, feed exclusively on the leaves of milkweed. Learn about which plants are hosts to your favorite butterflies. · Colorful flowers : They tend to attract butterflies because butterflies rely on the sugar-rich nectar. However, some butterflies, like the Question Mark, never visit flowers. Look for them around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses, or tree sap. · Mud puddles and stream banks : “puddle club” butterflies gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. · Movement corridors : As previously noted, butterflies are usually moving so other good places to find them are “movement corridors”. Movement corridors are forest trails, waterways, woodland edges, and even, believe it or not, power lines! Butterflies use these flyways for many purposes, including migrating long distances and locating mates. When to find butterflies : Butterflies are most active during the day between 10 in the morning and 5 in the afternoon. Warm, sunny days are crucial for butterfly viewing because butterflies are cold-blooded. Unable to generate the body heat they need to warm up and fly, they must rely on sunlight. Thus cool, cloudy days are bad for butterfly viewing. Ditto for windy days. Strong winds also interfere with flight as do rain and even mild showers. How to approach butterflies : If you have ever tried to sneak up on a butterfly, you know they can take off before you are even halfway there. So, approach slowly and with caution. Butterflies have excellent eyesight and startle easily (so don’t let them see you coming). Sneak up from the lowest angle possible. Butterflies are on the alert for predators, which usually attack from above, so that is where they will be looking for danger. Pay attention to your shadow. Sudden changes in light may signal a potential predator to a butterfly so it will take off. Now that you have spotted a butterfly, how can you identify its type? · Moth or butterfly : Is this flying insect actually a butterfly? Or could it be a moth? It is easy to be fooled because many moths are more colorful than some butterflies. Notice the antenna: butterflies have long antenna with a ball or club-like tip. Moths have “fuzzy” antenna. · Size : Field guides will list butterfly wingspans in inches and/or centimeters which is rarely helpful in the field. Notice instead whether the butterfly is Small, Medium, or Large. The Monarch and the Swallowtail, for example, are LARGE butterflies. Using the them as a comparison helps you determine which butterflies are medium and small-sized. · Color : Notice the butterfly’s overall color. · Patterns or markings : Does the butterfly have distinct stripes, bands or eye spots? Where are they? Upper or lower wing? Edges? Center? · Wing shape: The wing shape will help you identify the family to which your butterfly belongs, considerably shortening the number of pages you will have to turn to find your butterfly. Swallowtails, for example, belong to the family “Papilionidae .” Most of its members have ‘tails.’ · Flight pattern and behavior : Butterflies have four wings that are connected in a way that allows the wings to move independently, allowing a wide variety of flight patterns. Therefore, observing flight patterns is a good way to identify butterflies. For example, does the butterfly flutter slowly with a weak, relaxed motion or whiz past with a strong, rapid flight? Does it fly low to the ground or soar far overhead? Does the butterfly bob up and down or periodically glide following a series of quick wing beats? “ Skipper butterflies,” for example, are called skippers because their flight pattern resembles a series of “skips”. · Range : Many butterfly species are found only in certain regions of Minnesota, or even the country. Consult a field guide range map and always start with the most probable identification. Initially, noticing all these features and remembering them may be overwhelming. It helps to record your observations and take a photo. Once you have made them, you can consult your butterfly guide. Over time your skills will increase. You will soon learn to recognize many common Minnesota butterflies like: Monarchs (our state butterfly) and Viceroys (often mistaken for Monarchs and vice versa) and Mourning Cloaks , one of 8 or so butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota. Identifying butterflies can be a fun summer activity for adults and children alike. Following these tips can make the experience more rewarding. Happy butterfly watching! REFERENCES https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html Carter, David, Butterflies and Moths, Smithsonian Handbooks, NYC, New York, 2023 Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Farris Bryant Building620 S. Meridian St. • Tallahassee, FL • (850) 488-4676 Minnesota Butterflies, inaturalist, https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/1647?taxon=47922 https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_w7000_0752.pdf https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/attracting-butterflies/focus-on-natives-giant-swallowtail-butterfly/ https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/butterfly-behavior-basics/ Wing, Scarlett & 3 more, Butterflies and Moths (Smithsonian Kids First Discovery Books) Board book – Touch and Feel, April 29, 2019 http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Main/Butterflies.html#:~:text ecoredux.com https://www.ecoredux.com › butterflies-are-important Daniels, Jaret, Butterfly Watching Basics, University of Florida, IFAS Extension, July 2008; produced with cooperation and funding from FL Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and the FL Museum of Natural History. https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf Photo 1, credit: commons.wikimedia.org (all creative commons) Photo 2, credit: publicdomainpictures.net (all creative commons) Photo 3, credit: flickr.com (all creative commons) Photo 4, credit: en.wiktionary.org (all creative commons) Photo 5, credit: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6, credit: Marylandbiodiversity.com (all creative commons)

< Back Why Do Soil Testing? Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Read this article to learn why you should do a soil test in your garden and how to get it done. Hint: It’s easy! Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Whether you’re starting a new garden, converting a yard space from one use, such as lawn, to another like a vegetable garden, or just continuing to use an area for the same purpose, a soil test can provide you with information that will promote success. It is recommended you test your soil when changing the use of the area and every three to five years for all other areas. Soil testing is available through the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory. The basic soil test will provide information on the soil texture, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime levels in your soil. With that information, you will know the specific composition of fertilizer that will benefit your garden. It will also provide you with information that will help you determine the types of plants that will do best in your garden. Soil testing is easy! You will fill out a form that asks what the area will be used for and the results will then provide recommendations specific to that use. A soil sample of two to three cups of soil can be mailed or brought to the Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota. The sample should be collected by walking in a zig zag pattern through the space and placed in a clean tub or plastic bag. Separate samples should be submitted for separate areas of your yard. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden for specific instructions and to obtain the sample request sheet. The cost for a basic test performed at the University of Minnesota is $20. Happy soil makes for happy plants. Your key to happiness may be a soil test! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)