< Back Try the Many Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener In the featured vegetable section of this newsletter, you read about how to grow Swiss Chard. In this article, you will learn about the many delicious ways that you can include Chard in your dinner menus. There are so many ways to enjoy this beautiful garden vegetable. Swiss Chard (Chard) is a green leafy vegetable that has multiple health benefits, in addition to being very tasty. It is best eaten fresh, but can be frozen. Chard can be stored up to 2 or 3 weeks in the refrigerator but is best eaten within 2 to 3 days. Chard can be eaten raw or cooked. When eaten raw, it is usually best to select the younger, smaller leaves. These can be included in salads, much like you would add spinach. Other common ways of eating raw Chard are in sandwiches, wraps, and smoothies. The University of Nebraska Extension provides this nice list of different ways you could use Chard. Top 10 Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard One‐Pot Dish: Dinner couldn’t be easier with one pot stir fry featuring Swiss Chard. Ravioli filled with Swiss Chard, part ricotta, and a touch of parmesan cheese. Finish your your favorite sauce. Scrambled eggs or omelets: replace spinach with Swiss Chard. Add fresh tomato for a burst of flavor. Soup. Whether it’s minestrone, beef barley, or vegetable, Swiss Chard makes a scrumptious addition to any soup. Pasta: Layer Swiss Chard in your lasagna or toss if with pasta in a light olive oil and lemon sauce. Finish with freshly cracked pepper. Quiche. Substitute Swiss Chard for spinach in your favorite quiche recipe. It pairs beautifully with egg whites and a little pancetta. Stir Fry. For extra nutrition and flavor, add fresh Swiss Chard to stir fried brown rice just before serving. Stew. Try adding Swiss Chard to stews. It boasts an elegant balance of sweet and savory. Pizza. Swiss Chard makes a delicious … and unexpected … pizza topping. Try adding it to your pizza marinara sauce. Steamed. Steam the stalks of Swiss chard and eat them as you would asparagus. Very Simple Swiss Chard Cooking Preparation (basically steaming) Place Swiss Chard in a pan Add a small amount of water Cook on medium heat until wilted and stalks are soft Eat with butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Variations: Instead of water, use olive oil. Add garlic to taste (most recipes suggest 2-3 cloves, minced) Salt and pepper Red pepper flakes Juice of a ½ a lemon The University of Purdue Extension has a delicious recipe that uses another favorite vegetable I wrote about earlier this year, the Sweet Potato. It also features black beans. Sweet Potato and Black Bean Stew with Swiss Chard This hearty main dish combines the sweetness of orange sweet potatoes and the robustness of black beans, with the surprise addition of Swiss chard and a light touch of cumin. Serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous for a warm delight! Recipe adapted from the What’s Cooking? USDA Mixing Bowl Website ( https://www.whatscooking.fns.usda.gov/ ) . Prep 20 min Cook 40 min Total Time 60 min Servings: 6 Ingredients 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 small whole, dried New Mexican chili pepper 1 1/4 cups fresh onion (diced) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 1/2 cups fresh sweet potatoes (peeled and cut into half-inch cubes) 6 cups (about 3 cans) low-sodium black beans (drained and rinsed) 3/4 cup orange juice 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 4 cups fresh Swiss chard (stems removed and chopped) Directions 1. Dice onion. 2. In a large pot, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add onion and whole chili pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes. 3. Add cumin and cook for 2 minutes. 4. Add sweet potatoes, black beans, orange juice, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then cover, and reduce heat to low. 5. Simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 20 minutes). 6. Remove chili pepper and discard. 7. Add vinegar, salt, and pepper. 8. Add Swiss chard, cover, and continue cooking until chard is tender. Serve hot. 9. May serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous. Nutrition Information Serving Size: 1 cup Nutrients Amount Total Calories: 222 Protein: 10g Carbohydrates: 43g Dietary Fiber: 12g Total Fat: 4g Photo Credit: Chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (1)

< Back Chicken Curry Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that you may have in your freezer from last season’s garden. Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that I have in my freezer from last season’s garden. Chicken Curry – serves 4, over rice [ Ingredients: Spice blend: 1 ½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp ground mustard ¼ tsp ground cloves Curry: 1 T olive oil 1 c chopped onion 4 minced garlic cloves 1 T peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 cup chicken broth ¾ cup diced tomatoes ¾ cup sliced carrots ½ cup sliced parsnips ½ cup chopped green peppers Salt Cayenne pepper to taste 1 ½ lbs boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 ¼ inch cubes 1 tsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tsp water 1/3 cup milk or almond milk 2 T chopped cilantro Directions In a small mixing bowl whisk together all of the spices in the spice blend, set aside. Heat olive oil in a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add in onion and sauté until slightly golden brown, about 4 - 6 minutes. Add in garlic and ginger, sauté 30 seconds more then add in spice blend and sauté 30 seconds. Pour in chicken broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 5 minutes. Pour mixture into a blender then cover with lid and remove lid insert, cover opening with a clean folded kitchen rag. Blend mixture until well pureed. In the now empty skillet, add carrots, parsnips and peppers, cook 5 minutes until tender. You may need to add a little water or oil. Return the blender mixture to skillet, stir, and heat over medium-high heat. Season sauce with salt and cayenne pepper (start with about 1/2 tsp salt and a few dashes cayenne then add more to taste). Add in chicken. Bring to a simmer then reduce heat to medium-low, cover skillet with lid and simmer until chicken has cooked through, stirring occasionally, about 8 - 12 minutes. During the last minute of cooking stir in the cornstarch and water slurry if desired, to thicken sauce slightly (or if needed thin with a little chicken broth). Stir in cream/almond milk, then serve warm with cilantro over basmati rice. My husband, who does not like curry, loved this recipe. I think that’s because it doesn’t contain any curry! The spice blend is a fresh, light mixture instead of the pre-made spice purchased at the grocery store. Enjoy! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Is it Time for Houseplants? Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern It’s December. Everything in the garden is dead or hibernating. Assuming you did your fall clean-up in the yard, cleaned and sharpened your tools for next year and planted your spring bulbs, there is nothing to do in the garden. Feeling lost? Maybe it’s time to consider houseplants. There are many attractive flowering and foliage plants that are happy to grow indoors, even in low light. It is an opportunity to continue gardening in December and onwards, albeit on the smaller scale. Some of the plants you might want to consider during the winter months ahead are listed below. For an excellent resource for care instructions for all of these plants, check out this University of Minnesota site . Possibly the most famous of the easy-to-care-for, low-light plants is Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata - formerly Sansevieria). A foliage plant with variegated leaves that can grow from 4 inches to 4 feet tall, snake plant is also drought tolerant. Its flowers resemble small lilies and are very fragrant. None of mine ever bloomed in my lifetime or theirs, but even without flowers the snake plant can make a dramatic statement in your house. Snake Plant Another easy-to-care-for low light plant is the ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) . So beloved by commercial nurserymen that they named it ‘Plant of the Year’ in 2002, the ZZ is a slow-growing plant with solid green foliage that reaches between 1 to 3 feet tall. It has natural glossy leaves that are so shiny some have remarked that they “appear polished”. ZZ is also drought tolerant. In fact, it can go 3 to 4 months without watering! It will grow in any well drained or bark based potting soil. People who like to tell you how bad they are at raising plants may say they killed one, but unless they overwatered it, that is almost impossible. The ZZ thrives on neglect - after planting it, NEGLECT IT! Would you like an indoor palm for a gloomy corner of your home? Well, you can have one. In fact, you can have two! Neanthe Bella Palm or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) , is a slow-growing palm that can reach several feet in height. It likes to be slightly dry, so be careful not to overwater it. Lady Palm or Rhapis Excelsa requires a bit of bright but indirect light and is an extremely slow-growing palm although it can grow to 15 feet tall and wide over the course of several years. And there are more! Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) is a striking plant with green foliage edged in red or pink. Some cultivars can reach 2 to 3 feet in height. They perform admirably in conditions too dark for most other tropical plants. Chinese Evergreen tolerates moist to slightly dry soil in-between watering. Chinese Evergreen Unsurpassable for dependable, dark green foliage in very lowlight conditions, Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has glossy, coarse-textured leaves and grows in large, leafy clumps. It flowers periodically throughout the year. Although Cast Iron plant is susceptible to leaf-spotting diseases it is very resistant to insect pests. Variegated Cast Iron Plant And let us not forget flowering plants. If you are a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths, you can create a spring garden for winter viewing because these spring bulbs can be grown indoors. Called “forcing”, spring bulbs will grow indoors if you give them 12-13 weeks of cold. (Click here for an article on growing bulbs indoors). African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) are low maintenance, flowering house plants that are easy to grow, even in low light. With proper care they will flower reliably several times a year. The elegant Peace Lily is another flowering plant that is easy to grow. It thrives in low to medium light and requires minimal watering. It also improves indoor air quality by removing common toxins and pollutants like formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. Peace Lily NOTE : Peace Lily leaves, if eaten in large quantities, are poisonous to humans, cats and dogs. The exotic flowering hibiscus is also easy to grow and makes a beautiful houseplant as long as you meet its requirements. Native to Mexico, poinsettias are a flowering plant available around the holidays. Their colorful bracts, which look like petals, come in a variety of colors - red, white, cream, and pink - and the bracts can be single or double. Although usually used for decorating during the Christmas holidays, poinsettias are also attractive as green plants throughout the year. Click here for information on growing poinsettias indoors. Poinsettias PLANT SOURCES : Nurseries and big box stores are sources for houseplants but there are others. If you are looking to make an impact on a budget, consider some non-traditional sources for plants. Grocery stores are often overlooked as plant sources. Although noted for selling poinsettias during the holiday season, grocery stores also periodically sell large foliage plants at reasonable prices. In addition, that purveyor of all, Amazon , also sells reasonably potted plants. Other sources are plant society sales, which you can Google, and county chapters of MN Extension (Dakota County’s plant sale is in the spring). One of my favorite sources for plants is IKEA , where I purchased a 2 foot snake plant for $20 less than a year ago (it is now almost as tall as I am!). IKEA also sells other large houseplants very reasonably. PLANT CARE : Now that you have purchased your houseplants, you need to keep them ALIVE! The most common killer of indoor plants is overwatering or TMC (too much care). Know your plants’ requirements and follow them. Drought tolerant plants, such as snake plant and ZZ, can go a month or more without watering. Watering them more frequently will kill them. If you can’t keep track of when to water drought-tolerant plants, water them on a schedule - the first or last of every month, for example - or you can test the soil for dryness or moisture. Other houseplant killers are drafts from heating systems or air conditioners. Place your plants away from these. And don’t forget that fireplaces and appliances are heat sources too. Placing you plant next to a fireplace may look attractive but probably not for long. Too much or too little light can also kill houseplants or make them look “leggy”. If a plant requires bright sun and you have none, don’t try to grow it. Match your indoor lighting to your plant. There are multiple low and medium light plants, some of which we have listed in this article. As dismal as December and winter in general can be, houseplants can bring color and greenery indoors and keep your hand in. If you fit their requirements to the light you have available and provide good care, houseplants will reward you. They will allow you to wait out the winter cheerfully until you can get back into your outdoor garden. REFERENCES “Lighting for Indoor plants and starting seeds”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#low-light-plants-1622110 Bradly, Nicole and McAlpine, Lynn, “31 Best Low-Light Indoor Plants to Brighten Up Your Home”, Better Homes and Gardens , https://www.bhg.com/gardening/houseplants/projects/indoor-plants-for-low-light/ Brown, Deborah L. “Growing Citrus Plants Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/growing-citrus-indoors Weisenhorn,Julie, “Growing Bulbs Indoors”: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors ). Weisenhorn, Julie, “African Violets”: https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/african-violets “ASPIDISTRA ELATIOR CAST IRON PLANT”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP053 “AGLAONEMA MODESTUM: CHINESE EVERGREEN”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP025 “Hibiscus”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/hibiscus Neanthe Bella Palm, Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans), http.gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/outreach/plant_id/flowers_indoor/neanthe_bella_palm.html Rhapis Excelsa or Lady Palm, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP501 Weisenhorn, Julie, “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “Spathipyllum”, https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ Weisenhorn, Julie, “Watering houseplants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/watering-houseplantsSpathiphyllum” , https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ “CULTURAL GUIDELINES FOR COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF INTERIORSCAPE ZZ (ZAMIOCULCAS ZAMIIFOLIA), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP252 “ZZ Plant”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/zz-plant.html Photo Credit: North Carolina Extension (1), Flickr (2), Susan Ball (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs Sally McNamara, Master Gardener Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Believe it or not, the biggest mistake with pruning shrubs is being too conservative. While it is certainly possible to REMOVE too much, most pruners LEAVE too much. The other major mistake is not using sharp, effective pruning tools. Cutting is easier and better for the plant with the right size sharp tool. Disinfecting tools with a disinfecting wipe between plants is ALWAYS a good idea to prevent any potential for disease spread. There are 5 reasons to prune: 1) Remove diseased, damaged or dangerous material 2) Develop a strong framework for growth 3) Improve air circulation and fruit production 4) Improve a plant’s shape 5) Control size - although planting the right-sized plant initial is a better solution Timing Most pruning of both trees and shrubs is best done in late winter/early spring when the plants are just coming out of dormancy, the form of the plant without the leaves is visible, and the sap is beginning to flow. Sap moving into the pruning wounds helps the healing process and prevents drying out of the plant material. Winter winds will extract moisture from the plant through the pruning cuts so fall is NOT a good time to prune. The one big exception to this rule is maples and birch which can be pruned after the spring sap flow has slowed. Spring flowering plants should typically be pruned AFTER they flower. Summer and fall bloomers are best pruned in the late winter/early spring. Pruning during the growing season opens the plant to disease and insect damage. Oaks especially should not be pruned between April and August to avoid the picnic beetle which spreads oak wilt. Plant material damaged by storms, etc. should be removed as soon as possible if it could cause harm to people or structures. Diseased or insect damaged material should be removed to limit spread of the problem. Discarding of diseased material should be done with care - bag and discard in the trash for small amounts. Transfer to a facility that composts material to a proper temperature for larger quantities. Proper cuts The magic words in pruning are “branch collar” followed by “branch bud”. Using the t hree-cut method to remove most of the branch weight before complete removal is important on large branches to prevent ripping the bark down the tree. Branches should always be cut back to the branch collar and cut cleanly at that point. Cutting further in or leaving a stump out decreases the tree’s ability to grow protective bark over the wound and increases the chance of disease and insect damage. Smaller branches should be cut at a bud point to encourage growth and not leave material for decay. When pruning away dead material, prune well back to living material. General pruning of shrubs should be done to improve overall plant health. Recommended. Removing old growth to the trunk or soil results in a refreshed plant, such as pictured below. Discouraged. Shearing the plant encourages more growth in the top part, limiting light and air to the interior, causing dead inner branches. An excellent reference book on pruning is ESSENTIAL PRUNING TECHNIQUES: Trees, Shrubs, Conifers by George E. Brown and Tony Kirkham. So, put on your warm jacket and boots and give your trees and shrubs a proper haircut before the warm days of spring! Photo credits: theiowagardener.com (1), Alden Land Nursery Livermore CA (2), thisoldhouse.com (3, 4, 5)

< Back Sugar maple (Acer saccharum): A Sweetheart Year ‘Round Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener With this article, Jim Lakin is launching a series on native Minnesota trees. The first of these trees is the sugar maple. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. This tree has so many attractive characteristics that it is widely revered across many northern states. In this article, you will learn why you might want a sugar maple in your yard and how to give it the care that it needs to become a beautiful specimen tree. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. As a kid, I was fascinated by those hearty Vermonters tapping this noble tree for its sugary sap, boiling it down to the delicious maple syrup that graced my morning pancakes. Indeed, the sugar maple is so much a part of Americana that it is the official tree of no less than four states—New York, Vermont, Wisconsin and West Virginia. Its leaf graces the center of Canada’s flag. Also reflecting is ubiquity in folk usage, it is known alternately as "rock maple," "sugar tree," "sweet maple," "hard maple," "bird’s eye maple," or "curly maple”. As you might expect for such a noble species, its distribution is wide ranging from the Eastern Seaboard, westward into central Minnesota, Iowa, the Ozarks and up the Missouri River Valley into Kansas. Sugar maple is shade tolerant, so it quickly gains a foothold in the understory of mesic woodlands. It can be grown from seed, if you are patient. However, if you are transplanting a sapling, be sure that your specimen is locally sourced. It is a highly variant plant and adapts to local conditions stringently. An “outsider” will often not fare as well as one of the natives of the area. The sugar maple is a fine shade tree albeit a huge one. When siting your planting be aware that it can ultimately grow to 60 to 100 feet in height with a circumference that will vary depending on its neighbors. Although it can grow and dominate an understory, it doesn’t stay there! Another consideration is that it is a deciduous tree. All those wonderful red-yellow fall leaves will drop come winter. Also, in the spring you’ll see a vigorous production of samaras, pairs of winged seeds. So, if you are trying to maintain one of those squeaky-clean suburban lawns, keep your rake at-the-ready! Sugar Maple is a long-lived tree, persisting for 200 years and occasionally 300. It will bear seeds at about 30 years and should not be tapped for sap until about 50 years of age. Since it does require a hard frost for proper dormancy, it is not seen in proliferation beyond USDA zones 3 to 5. Although well-adapted to its native environment, human activity has taken a toll on the sugar maple population. Air pollution, acid rain and soil acidification have decimated many populations. Street salting has destroyed sugar maples as street trees, leading to their replacement with the more tolerant non-native Norway Maple. Givern these limitations, however, the sugar maple will grow well in a variety of soils, although good drainage is a must. It is not a flood plain tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, so in a few years with relatively little care, you will be rewarded with a luscious shade-tree and a glorious blaze of fall color. Photo Credits: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003644 (1), https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003638 (2)

< Back Green Beans for the Holidays – Should You Plant Pole or Bush Green Beans Next Year? Are you one of the 20 million people who enjoyed green bean casserole for Thanksgiving dinner? If you plant green beans in your garden this summer, you can preserve and use your home-grown green beans in your next Thanksgiving meal. In this article, you will learn more about your green bean planting options and how to choose which beans to grow and enjoy. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Many of us choose to adorn our holiday tables with the classic Green Bean Casserole (French cut green beans, fried onions, and mushroom soup). For trivia types, this casserole was first created in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly while employed at the Campbell Soup Company. As of 2020, Campbells estimated that approximately 20 million U. S. Thanksgiving dinners include this dish each year. That’s a lot of beans! And a reason to contemplate growing green beans next gardening season and then freezing them for the holiday season. Read more to determine if you should plant the Pole or Bush type green beans. Green Beans are also referred to as Snap Beans or String Beans and are a member of the wax bean family. And not to confuse people, but string beans can also be yellow, red, striped, and even purple (the purple disappears when cooked)! Growing green beans in your garden has many benefits; to name a few: · Easy to grow especially for young children as the larger seed size makes it easier to plant and the long green bean makes it easier for them to see to harvest; · Excellent companion plant to tomatoes as they put nitrogen back into the soil; · Can be grown in smaller spaces but require full sun; and · Excellent source of nutrition (low in calories, high in antioxidants including Vitamin C and fiber). In general, there are two types of these beans for gardeners to consider: Pole vs. Bush beans. Pole Beans, simply put, are vining plants which must be supported by a trellis, pole, or fence. They can grow up to 6 to 7 feet long. Bush beans are low growing plants that grow 1 to 2 feet tall only. So which type is better to plant: Advantages of Bush Beans: · No trellis or pole is required; · Great for compacted, raised beds; · Have a shorter production time (usually harvest within 50 to 55 days vs. 55 to 65 days for pole beans) · Produce all their beans within a short time (2 to 3 weeks) which is great for freezing and can stagger planting times for additional harvests Advantages of Pole Beans: · More productive than bush beans (in a 10-foot row space, pole beans can yield 8 pounds of produce compared to bush beans at 4 to 5 pounds) · Have a longer harvest window if you prefer to eat them fresh (continually harvest them). · Less susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew · Have a better flavor than bush beans (sweeter and starchier) · Easier to harvest (gives your back a break) · Excellent companion plant to corn and squash/cucumber or with a teepee system you can plant lettuce, parsley, or radishes in the center. So, while you are enjoying your holiday feast, remember to dream about the upcoming planting season and decide if you are going to plant pole vs. bush string beans next year! Sources: · Green Bean Casserole, Wikipedia.org · WebMD Health Benefits of Green Beans. November 28, 2022 · JohnnySeeds.com About Pole Beans · Iowa State Extension and Outreach, Which is more productive, bush or pole green beans? Photo credits: www.Flickr.com (1,2), Davidbach.net , All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Planning Your Garden for Next Year Begins Now! The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? Read this article for a reminder of some gardening fundamentals that may help you attain gardening success next year. Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? The Master Gardeners in Dakota County grow gardens that trial vegetable and flower varieties for the UMN Extension. Much of the produce from these gardens is delivered to local food shelves so success is important. These gardeners also review garden wins and disappointments as they consider future practices. In early fall I chatted with Master Gardeners at one of the seed trial and community gardens about their gardening practices. Of course, every year is different. While drought was an issue last year, this year the impacts of a very wet year were top of mind. Even so, the team kept returning to fundamental practices. This article will encourage you to look at your garden through the lens of these practices. And I’ll share some reflections from the seed trial garden. Fundamental Practices 1. Start with quality seeds and plants Locate reputable sources through research. Look at their growing practices and ask other gardeners for their favorite sources. Are your plants suitable for our northern climate? ( Hardiness zones 5a (in some places) and above ) Look for disease resistance or tolerance, especially if disease has been a problem. If purchasing plants locally, look for signs of insects and disease. “Reject any plant with dark, discolored or soft sunken spots on leaves, stems or roots.” UMN Extension 2. Maintain a healthy, living soil - Add organic materials to your soil in combination with soil testing. Know your soil. UMN extension recommends testing every 3-5 years. I am 100% convinced I need a soil test for my garden because the same plant that struggled in my garden produced beautiful red peppers in a new garden bed! You can obtain a soil test through the UMN soil testing lab for a small fee. The test will give you the estimated soil texture, pH (acidity), percent of soil organic matter and levels of phosphorus(P) and potassium(K). There are optimal levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus, and Potassium for plant growth. For example, too much nitrogen can stunt growth and, in some plants, may encourage leaf growth but delay fruiting. Finally, the soil test will recommend soil amendments and fertilizers that address any deficiencies that are found. Add organic matter as needed. A common practice is to add a couple inches of compost each year. Consider cover crops . Do frequent health checks - disease and pests can establish very quickly. Remove diseased material immediately and clean your tools. Only fully composted disease-free compost should be returned to the garden. Rotate Crops. Diseases are usually shared within a plant family. Did you know peppers and tomatoes and eggplant are in the same Solanaceae (nightshade) family? UMN extension references: Soil testing for lawns and gardens Compost and soil organic matter: “The more, the merrier?” Living soil, healthy garden 3. Maintain moist but not water-logged soil Moisture is tightly coupled with soil health. Saturated soil can lead to nitrogen loss and flooding can prevent the roots from taking up oxygen and other nutrients. Assess watering practices in the garden - Watering from above can cause disease to splash up from the soil and over saturate plant material. Soaker hoses are one option to minimize spread of diseases. Improve drainage as needed – One strategy to control water is raised beds. Forming raised beds ensures good drainage, which is more crucial for some plant families. An example of this is the Gourd family (Cucurbitaceae): cucumber, melon, summer and winter squash, pumpkin and gourd. Use mulch wisely. Mulch keeps soil moist longer and helps maintain healthy soil by limiting loss of nutrients from runoff. Use mulch that is both disease and chemical free (e.g. wet mulch may be diseased and avoid grass clippings from a treated lawn). UMN extension references: Watering the Vegetable Garden Raised Bed Gardens Fertilizing and Watering Container Plants 4. Maintain airflow between plants - Be generous with spacing. Provide appropriate structure to maximize airflow and keep produce off the ground. Take into consideration the weight of produce and the spacing increments; for example, a pole bean loves twining around a string, peas love some chicken wire and tomatoes need a good strong cage. Get these in place early and keep an eye out, as plants often need ‘training’. Prune as needed. An indeterminate tomato plant, for example, will keep growing. Prune plants if crowding impacts airflow and sunlight. UMN extension references: Trellises and Cages to support garden vegetables Preventing Plant Diseases in the Garden 5. Invite pollinators in Combining vegetables and flowers in one area is becoming more common. Mixing not only helps with plant pollination but provides more color and variety, keeping the garden beautiful and supporting beneficial insects. See article “ Companion Gardens are the Best ” And finally, what reflections on the year did the seed trial and community garden gardeners come up with? In general, it was a very wet year and overall production was lower than previous years. Beans struggled early but rebounded in late summer as the sun returned and the soil was no longer saturated. Despite valiant efforts to manage squash beetles and limit impact of mildew and other disease, squash and cucumber plants eventually succumbed. Tomato and pepper plants started slow but were very productive in the long run despite some tomato blight. A mulch of loose, not too dense straw was a good choice and plants were spaced for sufficient airflow. Cocoa mulch smelled delicious but became wet, compressed and slick from the rain. Flowers and pollinators were abundant and admired. At the end of September, the team is still delivering quality produce to the food shelf: And that is success! I hope in this recap of gardening fundamentals you will find a couple of helpful strategies to try next gardening season. Each year is a bit of an adventure - expect the unexpected, learn and be willing to adapt. Happy gardening! If you need assistance beyond the articles provided, try these resources: Contacts for yard and garden: Ask a Master Gardener Diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases and nonliving factors: What’s wrong with my plant? Photo Credits: Alyce Neperud (1,3-8), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Shade Gardens Susan Ball, Dakota Gardener Master Gardener Shade – a gardener’s headache? Does your garden require full sun to be beautiful? NO! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. As you start to plan your garden for 2025, this article gives you lots of ideas for how to make the most of the areas of your yard that are a bit sun challenged. Shade. A gardener’s headache. All the beautiful and brilliantly colored plants require hours of sun. What’s left is dull and colorless. Not true! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. First off, know that there are different levels of shade, from part to deep. Deep or full shade means a spot never gets direct sunlight, or only a very short amount of mild, morning sunshine. Part shade means about 4 hours of sun—but mostly morning sun, not blazing-hot afternoon sun. To garden successfully in the shade, know the size of your planting area, your cold hardiness zone (in Dakota County and most of middle Minnesota that would be zone 4), your shade level and your soil conditions. You also need to know if you want to grow perennials - which regrow every year - or annuals - which live for one growing season and then die. (You can grow both). With this information in hand, you can select your plants. If you haven’t heard of that shade “staple”, the hosta, know that hostas - perennials with leaves in many color combinations and textures - are not only easy to grow but can survive in deep shade. They even have flowers, usually violet but white as well. While many hostas prefer part shade - particularly those with gold tones and those with edging or centers of white or cream - “blue” hostas need deep shade to protect the waxy coating on their leaves. Hostas can grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer moist soils rich in organic matter. While spring is the preferred planting time, hostas can be planted all summer. Be sure to give them extra water then so the roots develop without drying out. Other shade plants include Lenten rose, Jacob’s ladder, astilbe, Dutchman’s breeches and its relative, bleeding hearts . . . and shrubs such as hydrangeas and rhododendrons. Many native plants, especially the spring blooming ones, are also shade lovers. Lenten Roses , also known as Hellebores , are shade plants producing delicate, long-lasting flowers in late winter and early spring. They need little to no moisture and are hardy to zone 4. These are the pluses. Although lovely, a major minus is that these flowers hang downward under their leaves so you must practically stand on your head to see and enjoy them. They can be found at nurseries or ordered online. Dutchmen’s breeches (their delicate white flowers look like breeches hanging on a clothes line), their relative Bleeding hearts and lily of the valley, tiny, bell-like flowers with a beautiful fragrance, are other spring perennials you might want to add to your shade garden. All are hardy in zone 4 and require similar conditions: shade, little to no moisture and well-drained soil. Bleeding Heart Then there are native plants, most of which thrive in shade. Spring Beauty, which, as the name suggests, blooms in the spring, Lady’s Slipper, Jack-in-the Pulpit, Trillium (big white flowers) and May Apples all love shade. Generally, not available at big box stores, look for these charming natives at native plant nurseries or online. There are also summer blooming shade flowers to consider. Brunnera is a perennial with tiny blue flowers that loves shade but does not tolerate droughts or dry soil. As long as you water it and keep it away from too much sun, it will bloom beautifully. It is hardy to zone 3. Jack Frost Brunnera Another perennial with tiny flowers, coral bells , also grows in shade and has a variety of colored foliage. This delicate blooming plant joins foam flower, Jacob’s ladder and astilbes, additional summer blooming shade perennials. All of these plants need to be well-watered, especially when growing under tree shade (which can dry them out). Foam flowers have small, poofy flowers that grow in clusters and like partial and full shade. Be careful not to underwater or overwater foamflower - both are fatal. Jacob’s Ladder has attractive blue and purple flowers and has the added bonus of being rabbit and deer resistant. Astilbes grow large (up to 5 feet depending on the variety), and have showy plumes of tiny flowers in shades of pink, red, white and royal blue that will liven up any shady area. They are also, reportedly, deer resistant. If you are looking for a shade loving plant that will also attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden Black Bugbane is your flower. These fragrant, tall, fluffy flowers sport dark purple leaves that will turn white by the end of the summer. Grow them in partial to full shade with medium moisture. Then there are the annuals. Among those you may want to consider are coleus , a leafy plant with incredible colored leaves: pink and green, purples and yellow and dark reds and almost everything in-between. Impatiens are another pretty annual in multiple colors - red, pink, orange, white and violet. These plants bloom well in shade but are susceptible to dry conditions so be sure to keep them well watered. Shade begonias , with similar colored flowers - except orange and violet - have smaller flowers but are studier plants, tolerating some dryness. Coleus Heartbreaker There are beautiful shrubs that tolerate partial to full shade as well. Check out white hydrangeas, single and double flowered rhododendrons and their relatives, the azaleas . All these shrubs have beautiful and abundant flowers in multiple colors and can be found at most big box stores. Shade, even deep shade, is no reason for a gardener to despair. With planning, a combination of annuals, perennials and shrubs will provide texture and color in shade from spring through fall. REFERENCES “HOSTAS”, https://extension.umn.edu/search?q=hostas in Minnesota Sansone, Arricca, “25 Best Shade Perennials That Thrive Out of the Sun”, https://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-ideas/g24882877/shade-perennials/ ? Spring Hill Nursery, “Astilbes”, https://springhillnursery.com/pages/astilbe_growing_tips_and_benefits Spring Hill Nursery, “Jacob’s Ladder”, https://springhillnursery.com/products/touch-of-class-jacobs-ladder ? Weisenhorn, Julie, GARDENING IN THE SHADE, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), CallyL, Pixabay (2), www.flickr.com (3,4)

< Back Earth Month is for Everyone! Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener It is now April and that means EARTH MONTH! While many of us think about growing, planting, tending, and gardening all year long, if you are like me, that doesn’t always include water conservation, energy conservation, cleaning up my neighborhood, etc. The month of Earth Month is a reminder that we can do better to help preserve and cherish planet Earth. For the little ones in our lives, it is never too early (or too late) to teach them how to become better caretakers of mother nature. Please read on to find activities to do with the young people in your life during the month of April (and the other 11 months too!). April is Earth Month, but how did it become Earth Month? Actually, it didn’t start as Earth Month. It started as Earth Day. In 1970, a senator by the name of Gaylord Nelson, knowing there weren’t laws in the United States to protect the earth’s resources, created awareness about the issue. It was decided that in April of 1970 people in the United States were going to gather and have demonstrations about the deterioration of earth’s resources and the need for protection of our air, water, trees, animals, land etc. On April 22, 1970, over twenty million people across the nation participated in the first ever Earth Day. People at colleges, universities, high schools, middle schools, elementary schools, and communities gathered to address the importance of protecting the Earth. From then on, we have celebrated Earth Day every April 22. But, as we know, this has grown to into celebrating Earth Month every April! Earth Month Activities There are so many activities that can be done to help improve and conserve Earth’s resources. This article is going to focus on a few specific things for us to do with the kids in our lives by conserving water, conserving energy, planting trees, and cleaning up garbage. Conserving water Water is one of our most precious resources. Even though about seventy percent of the earth’s surface is covered by water, only about three percent is fresh water. Of that three percent of fresh water, only about one percent of that water can be used as drinking water. Depending on the age of the children in your lives, percentages can be very abstract and hard to understand. So, try this activity with them. Gather 100 rocks, pebbles, acorns, pinecones, crayons…really anything small and easy to collect. Explain that these 100 items represent Earth’s surface. Then count out 30 items and set them off to one side. Explain that these thirty items are the ground we stand on, the trees we see, the buildings we shop in, the schools we attend, the parks we play at, etc. Then show the remaining 70 items. Explain that these 70 items represent the rest of earth’s surface, and it is all water! Even though it is water, most of it isn’t fresh water. Explain that there is a difference between fresh water and salt water. Depending on your comfort level, you may even add a bit of table salt to a glass of water and have everyone try a small sip to see how undrinkable it is. Next, of those remaining 70 items, remove three. Explain that out of those 70 items, these three represent the only fresh water we have on earth, the lakes and rivers we enjoy swimming and fishing in. Finally, remove one item and explain that this one item represents the only drinkable water we have on Earth. Because there is so little drinkable water on Earth, that is why it is so precious and why we need to conserve it. Ways to Conserve Water Turn off the faucet while washing hands and brushing teeth. Take quick showers. No more than 5 minutes. When rinsing dishes, don’t turn the faucet on full strength. Use rain barrels for watering plants and flowers outdoors. If you are a homeowner and don’t already have a rain barrel, Dakota County has information regarding how you can build your own through this link . If you would like a rain barrel, but do not want to build your own, you can purchase one at a discounted price, while supplies last, from the Recycling Association of Minnesota . (They sell compost bins too! Conserving Energy In an ideal world we would all use energy produced only by the sun, wind, and water. But until that becomes more economically possible for all of us, here are a few simple ways to conserve energy. Turn off lights whenever you leave a room. Regarding your house temperature, turn your thermostat off whenever the weather is comfortable and open your windows. During the winter months, turn the thermostat down to a lower temperature at night. During the summer months, turn the thermostat up a few degrees. Even a few degrees makes a big difference! Close the blinds during really hot and really cold days. This will keep your air conditioner and furnace from having to work constantly. Ride your bike to school and work. Plan to have to leave a bit early and come home a little later. You will save on gas money and get exercise too! This next one is one of my favorite energy conserving activities to do with my own kid - have a light and electronics free day! When we have one of those rare days where no one has any planned activities, we sometimes have a light and electronics free day. We don’t turn on any overhead lights or lamps. You won’t be able to avoid a completely light free day because of the refrigerator, microwave, oven, garage door, etc. However, we unplug what we can and put tape over all the light switches, in case we forget. We tuck our iPads, laptops, and phones away, and prepare for a day outdoors and playing games by candlelight. Planting Trees Planting trees is a great way to help the environment and create cleaner air. An average 50-year-old mature tree can produce enough oxygen for 4 people to breathe a year! In addition, trees take in greenhouse gases and remove particle matter from our air. So, not only do we get oxygen from trees, but they also remove toxins that are unhealthy for us. Trees also provide shade and can help to reduce energy costs that come from using air conditioners in the summer. You can purchase trees from local greenhouses in various sizes and species. Often around Arbor Day, which is Friday, April 26 th this year, many organizations will give away free tree seedlings. Also, if you have a large area for which you are looking to plant trees, seedlings may be purchased in bulk - 50 seedlings per order from the Arbor Day Foundation . In addition, if you are part of an organization such as a school, library or youth group you can sign your organization up with “Neighborhood Forest.” This organization provides free tree seedlings to children. Once the organization is registered, parents can sign their kiddos up to get a free seedling. Cleaning up Garbage When I was in elementary school, we had a student group called the Green Team. One thing our students organized, was a school-wide community clean up. The teachers, volunteers, and students went out with gloves and garbage bags and cleaned up trash in our community. This is an easy activity for a family or a neighborhood to do together. Afterward, you can recycle anything that is allowed at your local recycling center and throw away the rest. Most times, when my family takes our dog for a walk, we bring a bag with us and pick up trash as we go. Community clean-up doesn’t have to be once a year or just in the month of April. We can all, including our children, participate in making our environment cleaner and healthier. April – Earth Month – is the perfect time to inspire your children - and yourselves! Resources https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/build-healthy-cities/cities-stories/benefits-of-trees-forests/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncWvBhD_ARIsAEb2HW9Trl1lPBpLAgcSGf1wG1iA5BEswP_MZMQSoin46BvbaRKXjAw3ld4aAn8iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/nursery/pricelist.html https://www.neighborhoodforest.org/ https://www.epa.gov/history/epa-history-earth-day#:~:text=There%20were%20no%20legal%20or,U.S.%20cities%2C%20and%20it%20worked ! https://www.epa.gov/archive/epa/aboutepa/earth-day-70-what-it-meant.html https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/WaterResources/Stormwater/Pages/rain-barrels.aspx https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ Photo Credit: Flickr (1,3,4), Picryl (2)

< Back A Versatile Understory Tree: Eastern Redbud Jim Lakin introduces us to another stunning, not-too-big tree native to Minnesota – the Eastern Redbud. This lovely specimen welcomes spring with rosy-pink pea like flowers and ends the growing season with large, heart shaped yellow leaves. It would make a lovely addition to your garden. Read on to learn more. Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Last month we talked about one lovely understory (i.e. not too big) tree, the Serviceberry. Another stunner that you might consider is the Eastern Redbud. Eastern Redbud ( Cercis canadensis ) is a small, graceful tree native to the eastern and central United States. It is one of the first natives to bloom in the spring when it presents a stunning display of rosy-pink pea like flowers that bloom close to the branches and even on the trunk. The result is a spectacular springtime show. The leaves that follow are large and heart shaped, assuming a clear yellow color in the fall. As Cercis canadensis is a member of the pea family its fruits are brown to black pods, typical of the Fabaceae or legume family. If you are considering a Redbud, you should plan on planting in the spring, probably in mid to late May here in Minnesota. It grows best in full to part sunlight in a moist well-drained soil. It is pretty tolerant of both acid and alkaline soils and is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9. The Eastern Redbud can grow to 20 to 30 feet tall with about a 25-foot spread. It has a tendency to form multiple trunks, so if you are going for a single one, some pruning will be necessary. In planning your placement, redbud makes a great specimen, patio or lawn tree. If you plant daffodils or tulips around it, they will bloom at approximately the same time and put on a really impressive show. In case you’re thinking Eastern Redbud is too good to be true, it isn’t. It’s a relatively short-lived tree, about 20 years. It is also susceptible to several pests including leaf spot and verticillium wilt. The latter can be controlled with deep-root watering, careful pruning and fertilization. Deer and rabbits love redbud as much as we do, so it is best to apply plastic trunk guards for the first two to three years until established. On the plus side they do attract hummingbirds and a number of butterflies as would be expected from a native perennial. Caring for your Eastern Redbud should include regular watering, about once a week to 2 to 3 inches especially in the first two years. A good thick mulch helps, but keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk. Fertilization requirements are usually light. A soil test can help to determine if there are any deficiencies. As we said redbuds do well in full sun to part shade. However, you should avoid placing the tree in a real scorcher of a location as they do better with a bit of shade in excessively hot environments. Thus, with a little bit of care your Eastern Redbud will become established and richly reward you each spring. Photo Credit: Penn State Extension (1), www.messersmith.name (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel

< Back To Till or Not to Till One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Thinking has changed over the years, however. Many soil scientists are questioning the wisdom of unbridled tilling. We’ve come to realize that garden soil is more than a receptacle for water and plant nutrients. Rather it is a living entity harboring billions of microbes and minerals most of which are highly beneficial to plant growth. It also is a complex structural milieux, permitting the passage and retention of water, the movement of oxygen and other gases of plant metabolism. Tilling can disrupt these structures and destroy many of the microbes beneficial to plant growth. Over time this can lead to soil compaction, reduced water holding capacity and erosion. Paradoxically, it also can bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. That’s not to say that the time-honored process of tillage is without benefit. It does create an even seedbed. It warms the soil in spring and helps to work in compost and other soil amendments. So how can you achieve these desirable results from methods other than tillage? In starting a new garden, a rototiller will make quick work of existing vegetation. However, the same result can be obtained by solarization or occultation. Solarization is achieved by placing a sheet of clear plastic over the future garden area and letting the sun fry any plants underneath. I prefer occultation, a fancy term for smothering plant life under black plastic. A black plastic tarp covering a field for occultation If you are trying to start a garden on heavily compacted soil, say an area that’s been run over by heavy mower for years, tilling may be the best solution. However, if the soil is workable consider using a broadfork. This is a dandy tool to reduce compaction in a new or existing garden without breaking up the soil aggregates. A broadfork has several metal tines on a bar with a couple of handlebars on each end. Stand on the bar and use your body weight to plunge the tines into the soil. Lean back and pull the tines through the soil. The creates soil aeration without turning it over or breaking it up as a tiller would. A seven-tine steel broadfork A broad fork in action Weed management has been a traditional role for tillers. The problem is they bring weed seeds up from the ground as they turn in grown weeds and their seeds. The end result is more annual weeds over time. If you reduce tillage this favors the dominance of perennial weeds which can be hand pulled or reduced by solarization or occultation as we talked about. Working in amendments of compost, manure, commercial fertilizers or cover crops is an important process to replenish your garden soil’s fertility. Traditionally this had been done with a tiller although there are good alternatives. We’ve already talked about the broadfork. Alternately a tilther can be used. This is a modified light tiller that only tills the top two or so inches of the soil. Being much shallower than the traditional tiller it can work in amendments while being much less destructive of the deeper soil structure. Want to learn more? Check out these links to the University of Minnesota Extension for alternatives to tillage: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/reducing-tillage-your-garden for solarization and occultation: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/use-suns-energy-kill-weeds Happy planting! Photo of Black Plastic Tarp on Field, Courtesy of Haley Rylander, Cornell University Photo of Seven-Tine Steel Broadfork courtesy of Bully Tools Broadfork at Gemplers.com Photo of Broadfork in Action courtesy of Seven Tine Unbreakable Broadfork at Way CoolTools.com