< Back Root Veggie Tart Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Root veggies are popular to grow in home gardens, easy to store, and very nutritious. This “Root Veggie Tart” was a winner with Joy Johnson’s entire family. A delicious and nutritious vegetable treat with fresh or stored root veggies. I made this tart for Easter dinner last spring and taste tested it on 24 of my relatives. Since everyone loved it, from oldest to youngest I thought I’d share it with you. The veggies I used were ones that had been stored over the winter from last fall’s crop, but I’m sharing it now, since you may have fresh root vegetables that you are harvesting. I made a large batch, but you can scale it down to family size quite easily. Feel free to add or subtract root veggies using what you have on hand, it tastes just as good no matter the mix of veggies. Ingredients : 6 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 huge, sweet potato or 3 smaller ones, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch lengths 3 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 onion, peeled and cut into small pieces ¾ cup olive oil ¾ cup sugar 3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 teaspoons dried sage. If you have fresh sage, use 1 Tablespoon of leaves 4 oz. goat cheese 1 ½ 9-inch pie dough rounds. Roll together into one piece large enough to cover your casserole dish. Preparation: Preheat oven to 400. Put the cut-up veggies in a large zip lock bag, pour in the olive oil and seal bag. Rotate bag until all veggies are coated with oil. Dump out onto one or two rimmed baking sheets, single layer, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put in the oven to roast until golden around the edges and tender, 30-35 min. Let cool. While the veggies are roasting, make the glaze: Cook sugar in 6 tablespoons for water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling pan occasionally, until mixture is slightly amber colored, 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat and add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, swirling pan to combine. Quickly pour the glaze into the casserole dish, tilt and rotate to evenly coat. Scatter the rosemary and sage over top. Put all the veggies into the casserole dish on top of the glaze. Wiggle them around and press them together gently. Crumble the goat cheese over the vegetables. Drape the rolled-out pie crust over the vegetables in the casserole dish, tuck the edges of the crust down along the inside edge. You may need to use a butter knife to gently push the crust between the veggies and the edges of the dish. Bake until crust looks dry, about 20 minutes, reduce the heat to 350 and bake until crust is golden brown, 15-20 minutes. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini Here is a delicious cocktail that my brother came up with on the same day I made the veggie tart. It was delicious and refreshing. 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 sprigs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil sprig (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Rhubarb is a Welcome Spring Vegetable Margie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that grows well in Minnesota. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready to eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. Rhubarb is variously defined as: Any of a genus ( Rheum ) of Asian plants of the buckwheat family having large leaves with thick petioles often used as food The tart, succulent, usually pink or red petioles of rhubarb used especially in pies and preserves The dried rhizome and roots of any of various rhubarbs grown chiefly in temperate parts of China and used in folk medicine especially as a laxative, diuretic, and ulcer treatment A heated dispute or controversy, especially in baseball Rhubarb is often called the “Pie Plant,” because it’s frequently used, alone or in combination with other fruit, in pies. Some spices used with rhubarb are ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Rhubarb Custard pie The origin of culinary rhubarb is unknown. It was grown in China and Europe before the 18th century and was used as medicine (see definition 3 above). Rhubarb stalks are a fair source of potassium, are 95 percent water and have no fat, sodium, or cholesterol, and are high in vitamin C, dietary fiber, and calcium. The stalks have some oxalic acid; the leaves, however, have a high concentration - which ties up calcium. This can cause kidney stones and aggravate gout and rheumatoid arthritis. According to Iowa State University Extension and Outreach , the roots of plants don’t easily absorb oxalic acid, so composting rhubarb leaves is safe. Rhubarb damaged by severe cold should not be eaten, as it may be high in oxalic acid , which can migrate to the stalks. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-rhubarb Minnesota provides the necessary 7-9 weeks of cold (<37°) weather to provide optimal growth. Plant rhubarb in well-drained soil. Different varieties have different levels of tartness and fiber. The plant will develop a large crown underground, this can be split to create more plants. Wait until the second season before harvesting; if you started from seed, wait until the third season. new Rhubarb leaves Begin picking stalks as soon as they have reached their full length. Depending on the variety, they may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. To pick rhubarb, hold the stalk firmly, pull and twist. Do not use a knife to cut the stalks from the plant; it can carry diseases from plant to plant, and the remaining stalk can be a point of entry for other pests. Spring rhubarb doesn't need peeling, simply trim and wash. The harvest season for rhubarb lasts until the end of June. Until then, pick as many stalks as you wish. After harvest allow the plant to keep all of its leaves, to build up its reserves of energy for the next year. Rhubarb does have a number of pests and diseases to watch out for. slugs, snails and leaf beetles, are pests you should watch for In a wet year or in a poorly drained site, root-rotting fungi can affect the plant. Start over in a new spot if this happens. Rhubarb curculio damage. Alternate host can be thistles For help diagnosing problems, visit the UMN Extension diagnostic site: 'What's wrong with my plant? ' Keep your rhubarb healthy and it will reward you with many tasty recipes to enjoy. Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (2,3,4,5,6), H. Allen Smith (1)

< Back Growing Sweet Potatoes in Minnesota Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family. Sweet potatoes typically need a long, hot growing season – which can be a challenge in Minnesota. Read this article to learn the secrets to growing sweet potatoes in your back yard. Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family ( Solanaceae ), similar to peppers and tomatoes. Sweet potatoes belong to the ( Convolvulaceae ) family, as do morning glory flowers. Kind of makes sense when we recall the luscious sweet potato vines we often use in containers (purple and lime colored) and how much they do look like morning glory vines. Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes need a long and hot growing season. Sounds like a typical Minnesota summer, right? In many of our dreams, maybe. In Dakota County, we land firmly in USDA Growing Zone 4b , which means we have a little bit longer growing season than our fellow Minnesotans in northern Minnesota, but not as long as a sweet potato really needs. What this all means is that we have to put more work into successfully growing that yummy sweet potato. It starts with choosing the right variety of sweet potato. The two most successfully grown varieties in Minnesota are “Beauregard” and “Georgia Jet”. Beauregard is considered to have great flavor while Georgia Jet is more consistently successful here. Both produce a harvest in about 90 days instead of the usual 100-170 days most other varieties require. You plant them after the danger of frost, which is around mid-May here, according to the MN DNR’s Last Spring Frost map (but keep an eye on those nightly temperatures). Start the sweet potatoes from slips, not seeds. Sweet potatoes prefer a soil pH between 5.5 – 6.5. To provide as warm a planting site as possible, choose a location that receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. It is recommended that you mound the soil or create ridges that are 8-12 inches high, or plant in a raised bed. Place black plastic over the soil to help heat the soil and maintain the warmth throughout the growing season. It is suggested that you plant in the late afternoon when the soil has warmed. Plant the slips 10-18 inches apart in rows that are three feet apart, about 4 inches deep, making sure the roots are covered completely with soil. You want to leave space for the vines to spread. There are differing opinions about whether to use fertilizer or not. Some people feel it detracts from the flavor, however, others think fertilizer is needed to produce a larger harvest. If you do choose to fertilize, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer, avoiding excessive Nitrogen. Place the fertilizer to the side of the plant (called side dressing) about six weeks after planting. Water regularly, providing the plants with about ¾ of an inch a week initially, and watering more often as the plants mature. You will want to stop watering two weeks before you harvest. Carefully dig the sweet potatoes before the first frost (usually mid-October). Try to avoid bruising or cutting them by using a potato fork or even moving the soil away with your hands. Once you harvest the sweet potatoes, you are going to have to wait between one to three weeks before eating because they need to ‘cure’. The curing process turns the starches in the sweet potato to sugars, producing the characteristic sweetness of the potato. If properly cured, you can store sweet potatoes in a dry 55° F area for several months. Then, eat and enjoy! References used in this article https://northerngardener.org/sweet-potato/ Minnesota State Horticultural Society https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/growing-sweet-potatoes-zm0z11zsto/ Mother Earth News https://www.seedsavers.org/site/pdf/SweetPotatoGrowingGuide1.pdf Seed Savers https://www.burpee.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sweet%20potatoes Burpee (not an endorsement of any seed catalog as many garden catalogs carry sweet potato slips) Photo credits: USDA. https://snaped.fns.usda.gov/seasonal-produce-guide/sweet-potatoes-yams (1), www/.scientificgardener.blogspot.com (2), University of Georgia Extension. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1014 (3)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back Sustainable Foraging for Wild Foods: Lessons from Indigenous Gardening Practices Foraging for wild foods is an increasingly popular activity, and it’s not hard to see why: it’s fun, educational, and delicious! It’s also not surprising that there is considerable overlap among people who enjoy gardening at home and searching for edible plants in the woods and prairies. As more people seek out and harvest wild foods, however, it is critical to do so responsibly and sustainably for the protection of biodiversity and the wellbeing of future generations. This article discusses how we can look for inspiration and guidance from our region’s Indigenous peoples and provides resources to forage safely and responsibly. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener For those of us who descended from European settlers, it is common to view gardening and foraging as distinct (albeit food-related) activities - one involves direct cultivation, and the other involves harvesting what mother nature has produced herself. If we consider Indigenous history and experience, however, we see how many “wild” foods have been carefully managed in ways that could and should be considered as “gardening” in the Western sense. 1 Through careful observation and strong norms of stewardship and reciprocity, Indigenous practices such as controlled burns, selective harvesting, and the intentional sowing of seeds in opportune places, led to the development of dynamic ecosystems that supported both human and non-human needs for centuries. 2 In Minnesota, the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples have maintained their own deep and complex relationships with the land and its inhabitants. Both tribes view the land as a living entity, deserving of mutual respect. Ceremonies are often conducted in the harvesting of wild rice and other foods, giving thanks to the earth for its resources and establishing an ethic of responsibility for the ongoing health of individual species and full ecosystems. Modern foragers should adopt this same mindset by approaching the land with humility and gratitude. Wild rice harvesting Selective harvesting is perhaps the most critical practice that aligns with these principles. Indigenous peoples sought to harvest only as much as plant populations would allow, ensuring that enough fruits, seeds, nuts, and fungi persisted as future food sources for humans and nonhumans alike. Careful foraging is not just good manners; it is fully in our own self-interest! Similarly, using all parts of the plant reduces waste and is a demonstration of respect for the lives of all kinds that support our wellbeing. Beyond the moral imperative to forage responsibly, you must be mindful of current rules and regulations that can vary by location and jurisdiction. And, if you are hoping to forage on private property, always secure permission first. In all cases, foraging responsibly requires a certain amount of knowledge of the particular food and an awareness of its surroundings for potential growth or threats. There are a number of great resources available for anyone interested in learning more about specific plants, mushrooms, and other wild foods. Sam Thayer’s Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants is widely considered authoritative and provides a comprehensive introduction to hundreds of species. Kelly Kindscher’s Edible Wild Plants of the Prairie: An Ethnobotanical Guide also includes a great deal of Indigenous history and culture surrounding the use of many familiar (and unfamiliar) plants. As common sense would dictate, unless you are already familiar with a particular species it is absolutely necessary to positively identify what is in front of you and learn how to safely consume it. Ramps - wild onions or leeks Foraging sustainably is more important than ever as our natural resources face the additional increasing pressures of climate change, invasive species, and urban development. In order to promote the health and wellbeing of human and nonhuman worlds, we must honor the enduring wisdom and teachings of the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples. Ethical foraging is more than just a list of rules or practices—it is an ongoing relationship between people and the land that nurtures us. Next time you find yourself moseying for morels or rooting for ramps, I hope you will think of yourself not as someone who has come simply to take and consume, but to garden and grow. 1 An excellent resource to begin learning about these practices is M. Kat Anderson’s Tending the Wild Native American Knowledge and the Management of California's Natural Resources . 2 There has been a great deal of modern research on how, for example, Indigenous peoples intentionally supported the biodiversity and soil quality of the Amazon rainforest, once thought by European colonizers (and perhaps still by some today) to be an untamed wilderness. Photo Credits: public domain (1-3)

< Back Wild Hyacinth (Camassia scilloides): Apollo’s Memento Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Wild Hyacinth is a Midwestern native that deserves a place in your garden. It is one of the few natives that propagate by bulbs. Wild Hyacinth grows in the wild in moist prairies, savannas and woodland edges. Once established, the bulbs are fairly long-lived, blooming reliably in the spring. Read this article to learn more about the value of Wild Hyacinth in your yard. Hyacinth or Hyacinthus was a pretty boy of Sparta, so much so that he attracted the attention of the Sun God, Apollo. Apparently, they had a great time together until an errant throw of Apollo’s discus did the poor lad in. So, legend has it, the sorrowing Apollo created the Hyacinth flower in his memory. Of course, kill-joy horticulturalists have pointed out that the described Apolline flower looked nothing like the modern hyacinth. Nevertheless, the North American native hyacinth reflects its divine heritage when in bloom. Wild Hyacinth is native to the Eastern and Midwestern United States, hardy through Zone 4. It is one of the few natives that propagate by bulbs. Most bulbs are “exotic” such as tulips ( Tulipa spp.), daffodils ( Narcissus spp.) and most commercially available hyacinths ( Hyacinthus spp.) Although the North American species of hyacinth are, like their Eastern Mediterranean brethren, in the asparagus family (Asparagaceae) the two Midwestern natives are of a separate genus. The bladelike foliage of wild hyacinth appears in the early spring, quickly forming a spike of numerous buds. In May through early June a perfusion of blue or white flowers, set off by prominent yellow stamens. Since their blooms are ephemeral, they do well intermixed with other natives, providing a kaleidoscope of blooms throughout the season. Good companions include its sister, Southern Wild Hyacinth ( C. angusta ) which blooms a bit later in spring, Midland Shooting Star ( Dodecatheon meadia ), Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea) and the ever-dependable Wild Geranium ( Geranium maculatum ). Wild Hyacinth grows in the wild in moist prairies, savannas and woodland edges. It flowers best in full sun but does well in part shade. It prefers hummus-rich slightly acidic soil. With adequate moisture, however it usually tolerates the slightly clay soil so prevalent in Minnesota. Once established, the bulbs are fairly long-lived repeatedly blooming in spring for years. Although the plant will reseed, it also propagates from bulb offshoots. If you are thinking about growing from seed, beware! Wild Hyacinth is notoriously slow to germinate and even slower to grow to maturity. You’ll be better off ordering bulbs from a commercial grower. It’s best to plant the bulbs in the summer or fall. The plant should emerge the following spring. After blooming, the basal leaves will turn yellow in mid-summer and wither away. The plant will remain dormant for the rest of the growing season. Over several seasons the plants should multiply forming a very attractive colony. Wild Hyacinth is a nice addition to a pollinator garden. It attracts butterflies, wasps, moths and native bees. The bulbs are edible and were a significant food source for many Native American Tribes and Early Settlers. I wouldn’t recommend foraging for them, however, as the bulbs are virtually indistinguishable from Zigadenus elegans, A.K.A. Mountain Death Camus, which contains a very potent and lethal toxin! Photo Credit: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons)(1), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (2)

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back Azaleas - a beautiful addition to the garden Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Azalea shrubs are a beautiful addition to the garden. The University of Minnesota developed a winter hardy azalea – ‘Northern Lights’ - which is now available in many different colors. In this article, you will learn how to care for azaleas, some of the lore about them, and why you will want them in your yard. Azaleas make a wonderful splash of color in mid-spring! Azaleas are flowering shrubs in the Rhododendron family. All azaleas are rhododendrons but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. The key differences are bloom time, growth habit and appearance. The most popular azalea for Minnesota is the ‘Northern Lights’ azalea. It was developed at the University of Minnesota by Albert Johnson and was the first azalea to flower prolifically after minus 40° winters. Its introduction led to the development of many other colors after Albert Johnson’s death. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/azalean/31/2/articles/Northern_Lights_Azaleas.pdf Azaleas need at least 4 hours of dappled sunlight, but in northern climates they can sometimes take almost full sun. It is extremely important that they have a soil pH of <5.5 that drains well. Fertilize in late winter or early spring. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so, the best time to prune is just after flowering. Azaleas need a sheltered area protected from icy winter winds, not a hot area next to the house. Don’t cultivate around azaleas because it will damage their shallow fibrous roots. The Woodland-Azalea Garden at the UMN Landscape Arboretum features many of the Northern Lights series of azaleas. All over the MN Landscape Arboretum in general, you can see Albert Johnson’s original pink-flowered ‘Northern Lights’. The series is known the world-over for varied colors and flower-bud hardiness - an achievement that took two decades. Historically, azaleas have been associated with various emotions and symbols. Generally, they are said to represent good qualities, such as: Temperance – the Victorians often carried a bloom if they supported the prohibition of alcohol. Emotional evenness. Passion that is still developing and fragile. Despite being overwhelmingly associated with positive qualities, Azaleas have a dark side as they are also associated with death threats-but only when sent in a black vase! This link may have occurred because in sufficient quantity, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. https://www.flowermeaning.com/azalea-flower-meaning/ Azaleas are susceptible to some pests including: aphids, scale, thrips and Azalea sawflies. Azalea woes? Try University of Minnesota Extension’s publication: ‘What’s wrong with my plant?’ Check out this University of Minnesota Extension site for more information on, and to identify, Sawfly larvae. Pest Control: ‘Pick and Plunk’- picking sawfly larvae and plunking them into a bucket of soapy water. Squishing the insects - not for the squeamish. A strong jet of water. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Azadirachtin and spinosad are effective for 1-2 weeks. Sawflies that feed on treated foliage are affected. These products have little impact on other insects. Residual pesticides include permethrin, bifenthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and carbaryl and are most effective against young larvae. One application is usually sufficient. Follow the label instructions exactly and the timing must minimize contact with pollinators. Note: Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk) is specific to caterpillars and does NOT kill sawfly larvae. These are some other hardy azaleas: Roseshell Azalea, zones 3-8, 4’-8’ x 4’-8’ one of the parents of the Northern Lights series Compact Korean Azalea, zones 4-8, 2-4’ x 2-4’ Lavender pink Pinxterbloom Azalea , native to the eastern United States and hardy to zone 4. This is the perfect time to plan to add azaleas to your landscape! P.S. Don’t forget a soil test in the spring to help determine how to amend your soil! https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ Photo Credits: Photo 1: Pixabay.com (public domain) Photos 2-7: Marjory Blare

< Back Roasted Stuffed Butternut Squash Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a special vegetable dish for the holidays? Or, how about a vegetable-main dish combination perfect for cold winter nights? What vegetable could fit the bill better than butternut squash? This recipe will make your mouth water and your tummy full. Ingredients Topping : 1/4 cup crumbled Feta Fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano as a garnish Honey (optional) Filling: 1lb. (uncooked) of your favorite sausage Squash: 1 large Butternut Squash, halved and seeded 2 TBSP Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste or, Garlic salt and smoked paprika. Directions Preheat oven or grill to 400° Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush olive oil on squash halves. Make several cuts in the neck and cube the neck, putting the cubes in the seed cavity. Season to taste with salt and pepper or garlic salt and smoked paprika. 4. Stuff with the sausage. If using the grill, place on an aluminum baking sheet, or whatever you might ordinarily use. Cook cut side up for 40-45 minutes or until done. Top with feta cheese. Drizzle with honey, if desired. Run under broiler for a bit, if you want more color. Garnish with fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-5)

< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Winter Hardy Cacti in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Cactus – does not only grow in the desert! Who knew? There are cacti that are not only winter hardy, but native to Minnesota? Read on to learn more about how you can grow a cactus garden in your yard. On a cool November day, I found myself standing in front of something I didn’t expect - a cactus garden in Minnesota. This particular garden is a gift from the St. Paul Garden Club and is located right on the University of Minnesota’s St. Paul Campus, outside the Conservatory & Botanical Collection (free and open to the public most weekdays 9am-3pm). According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, our state is home to three native cacti: Brittle Prickly Pear ( opuntia fragilis ). This cactus may develop a pretty yellow flower but the spikes of this plant are not pretty and no fun. Handle with care as the spikes can easily get stuck in your hand. They cactus is easily spread through the fur, feet, or skin of a passing animal as a piece of the plant will tear away - leading to the “brittle” name. The plant will be carried along by the animal and, at some point, dropped to grow in a new location. Plains Prickly Pear ( opuntia polyacantha ). This cactus has longer spines and pretty yellow flowers. It forms a mat that will spread along the rocks and grassland - or in your rock garden. Ball cactus, also called Pincushion cactus ( coryphantha vivipara or escobaria vivipara . ) This cactus is part of the UMN Landscape Arboretum rare species work because the plant and its native habitat are endangered by land use, including granite mining operations. The Arboretum and conservation partners are leading a project to seed bank and translocate seedlings to protected areas. They are creating educational displays at the Arb, and will eventually train local volunteers to take on the responsibility of monitoring these populations. In their native habitats, cacti prefer rocky soil and drier grasslands. In Minnesota, this environment is mostly found in the western counties. Gardeners can mimic these conditions with well-drained soil in raised beds and rock gardens. Amending the soil with gravel can improve drainage. Cacti are able to store water and nutrients for a long time in their stems, which helps them to survive the extreme temperature and moisture conditions found throughout the seasons in Minnesota. Cacti will often grow in crevices and crannies along rock slabs; they use the heat stored in the rocks when the sun shines to help them survive our cold winters. So, if you are drawn the desert look or are looking for a plant that will grow in your rock garden, consider these Minnesota native cacti for your garden. For more information and photos of Minnesota native cacti, including teacher resources, visit https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2024/jul-aug/yn.html For more information about the University of Minnesota CBS Conservatory and Botanical Collection, visit cbs.umn.edu For more information about the Arboretum’s rescue projects and conservation partners, visit https://arb.umn.edu/plant-rescues Photo Credits: UMN Landscape Arboretum (1), Sarah Heidtke (2,3,,4),Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/pincushion-cactus (5)

< Back Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis): A Plant to Dye For / With! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Ever wonder why Blue Wild Indigo is nicknamed “False Indigo.” Read the answer to this question and more about why you should consider this hardy native for a spot in your sunny garden. “Any flower this intense a blue must be good for dyes. It must be indigo!” or so thought early European settlers coming to the Eastern Seacoast and meeting Baptisia australis . Alas, the plant proved inferior to the real thing as a dye—Blue Indigo or Indigofera sp. Thus, it acquired its alternate name of False Indigo. Nonetheless, the intense blue bloom of blue wild Indigo justifies your adding it to your garden, even if you aren’t into textile dying! Blue wild indigo is found across the upper and Mid-Atlantic seaboard, extending into the Midwest. It grows well in dry to medium well-drained soil in full sun. It will tolerate part-shade but does get a bit spindly. It tends to form in expanding clumps which put down deep roots—thus, its tolerance of drought and poor soils. However, it’s not a good idea to disturb the plant and its roots once established. The plants can get three to four feet tall and spread out a similar length so some folks will trim them after blooming. This helps keep a more rounded shape but at the expense of removing the seed pods which form. These fellows are a delight! The pods can be 2 to 3 inches long, turning a charcoal black. The seeds are loose in the pod so they make a great rattle. If you aren’t into that, the cut stems and seed pods can make a striking addition to dried flower arrangements. Blue wild indigo can be grown from seed, but this is a slow process. Blooming usually doesn’t occur for several years. Baptisia australis is an herbaceous perennial. It is hardy from Zones 3 to 9 so it should be good to go throughout Minnesota. It usually blooms during May and June and attracts a number of pollinators, especially butterflies. It does well as a back border or a naturalizer in prairies or meadows. It is a tough customer with few insect or disease problems. It is, however sensitive to juglone, that antisocial chemical secreted by walnut trees, so don’t plant blue indigo around them. Otherwise, blue wild indigo can be a beautiful, low maintenance addition to your garden. Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)