< Back It’s August - What Can You Find in Your Garden? Julie Henrichs, Master Gardener The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! Before you begin, remember to adjust your exploration so it is age appropriate and safe for all. Scavenger Hunt options are listed below based on a specific type of garden you may have but any can be combined. ( Italic items are more challenging or may require more research for older children. ) Garden Scavenger Hunt Flower Garden/Flower Planters Find a red flower ( Find a salvia bee balm or geranium flower-how many petals are on each stem?) Find a Hibiscus plant ( Are hibiscus in Minnesota considered an annual or perennial? Answer: There are different types of hibiscus. Some are considered tropical and are annuals unless brought inside for the winter. There is also a perennial hardy hibiscus that can be grown in Minnesota Find a fragrant smelling flower. ( Name the flower found. Do you think marigolds have a fragrant smell?) Find an annual plant. Find a perennial plant. What makes each type of plant an annual or perennial? What is a biennial? Answer: Life Cycles = annual-1 year (marigolds, impatiens); biennial-2 years (foxglove, dianthus) and perennial more than 2 years (hostas, daylilies) Vegetable/Fruit Garden Find a green vegetable ( Find a green bean. What is the difference between a bush bean and a pole bean? Answer: Bush Beans=lower and more compact growing plants; larger harvests over a shorter period of time; usually planted in rows. Pole Beans=vining and climbing plant; smaller harvests but extend over entire growing season; need trellis system to grow on) Find an herb ( Identify the herb found and taste it. What can this herb be used for? Answer: Examples - Basil=pesto; Oregano=pizza; Lemon Balm=tea, salads) Pick a ripe tomato ( What type of tomato did you pick? Example-Roma, Cherry, Grape, Yellow) Find an orange vegetable (Examples: peppers, carrots, pumpkins) Find a root vegetable or the tops of a root vegetable ( What is a root vegetable? Answer: the plant parts eaten are underground-examples are carrots, potatoes and radishes.) Bugs and Leaves Find a bug and explain what it is doing ( Identify the bug found - does the bug benefit or harm the garden vegetation?) Find a tomato plant and look for an unhealthy leaf ( What would make my tomato plant unhealthy and what do the leaves tell me? Answer: pests, disease or an environmental problem. Example: Yellowing leaves can mean a nitrogen, iron, magnesium or potassium deficiency or overwatering. Find a honey bee and tell us three characteristics of the bee. Answer: striped abdomen; amber brown color and four clear wings attached to the thorax. ( Why are honey bees important to our garden? Answer: honey bees are essential for pollinating plants) Find a leaf in the garden that has been chewed on by an insect. ( Turn over the leaves, look near the base of the plants for the bug responsible for the chewed-up leaves. Identify the bug.) Getting outside into your gardens are so much more fun when shared with the children in our lives! Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (1), pxhere.com (2,3)

< Back Vegetables Indigenous to North America Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota and provide some useful references for those interested in exploring this topic more thoroughly. Larry Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota. But first, let’s define some terms. Indigenous vegetables are defined as “locally-produced (usually within traditional systems), socially and culturally accepted as local foods, and eaten by previous generations or introduced for a very long time.” https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 . “A plant is “native” if it has occurred naturally for thousands of years in a region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native . Minnesota is home to a wide range of native and indigenous plants and vegetables each with many different cultivars. An important source for indigenous plants in Minnesota is a work by Frances Densmore - Plants Used by the Chippewa Indians , originally published in 1927 and later retitled How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine & Crafts . Densmore documented nearly 200 plants and their uses for food, medicine, dyes, charms, and crafts. Her work offered a firsthand look at the plants used by Indigenous communities across Minnesota. For example, she recorded the use of Spreading Dogbane for heart issues and Chokecherry bark for stomach ailments—remedies later validated by U.S. pharmacological references. Her contributions remain deeply influential today. (See references below.) While it’s easy to find general references to staple crops like beans, squash, and corn, it is more difficult to uncover exact cultivars. Densmore’ book is an excellent source for this research. Frances Densmore More recently, many organizations are attempting to identify and save seeds that are indigenous to North America. In Minnesota, environmentalist and Native American activist Winona LaDuke initiated the White Earth Land Recovery Project to protect indigenous seeds, help the community to overcome type-2 diabetes and also strengthen the community’s spiritual and cultural heritage. Other organizations that are working to catalog and conserve indigenous seeds are Seed Savers Exchange and Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste . One organization, Food Tank, has compiled a list 20 foods that are indigenous to the people in North America. Some foods on this list are familiar and some or not: but all are interesting. Acorns (California native oak trees) American Persimmon Wild Rice (Anishinaabe Manoomin) Bay of Fundy Dulse (a red seaweed from Canada) Blue Camas (Pacific Northwest, root vegetable) Candy Roaster Squash (Appalachian Mountain native) Chaya (native to Yucatan Peninsula, evergreen plant) Chiltepin Pepper (southern U.S., very spicy) Cholla Cactus Flower Buds (southwestern U.S.) Garambullo (central Mexico, sweet red or purple fruit) Highbush Cranberry (native to Alberta, Canada) Mesquite Beans (southwestern U.S.) Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (northeastern North America) Pawpaws (largest edible fruit in North America) Ramon seed (superfood used by Mayans) Roy’s Calais Flint Corn (northern U.S. and Canada) Seminole Pumpkin (native to the Everglades) Tehucan Amaranth (indigenous to the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico) Tepary Beans (southwestern U.S.) Wild Ramps (wild onions native to eastern North America) Indigenous vegetables that are more familiar locally include beans, corn and squash. One traditional method of growing these crops is known as the “Three Sisters.” The term “Three Sisters” refers to corn, squash, and beans traditionally grown together using intercropping techniques. These plants support one another: corn offers structure, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and squash shades the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This method has been used for generations, and studies have confirmed its effectiveness. Three Sisters plots have shown significantly better soil health—including higher CO₂ respiration and nitrate levels—compared to monoculture plantings. Corn – Red Lake Corn One variety native to Minnesota is Red Lake Corn, cultivated by the Red Lake Ojibwe along Red Lake’s southern shores. This eight-rowed corn features mixed white and blue kernels, occasionally with red. It’s a distinct and culturally significant variety grown by skilled Indigenous farmers. Beans – Pole beans Cherokee Trail of Tears pole bean . The Cherokee people carried these beans with them during their forced removal from their ancestral lands, highlighting their importance as a source of sustenance and cultural identity. For purposes of the Three Sisters, look for varieties that will grow up and wrap around corn stalks. Many varieties with roots in North America are available. Squash – Cucurbita maxima Cucurbita maxima , one of the five cultivated squash species, originated over 4,000 years ago in South America. Though it favors warmer climates, some varieties have historically been grown in cooler regions like Minnesota. Frances Densmore referenced it as a basic but important food source. This long-vining plant needs full sun, fertile soil, and space to spread. Its seeds also have medicinal uses, and the fruit is versatile—great for soups, roasting, or baking. Some varieties are even grown for ornament or livestock feed. Squash, Cucurbita maxima If you are interested in growing heirloom vegetables indigenous to North America, look for Native seed companies like Seedsavers Exchange. For more information about indigenous vegetables, take a look at the references below. References https://foodtank.com/news/2016/07/indigenous-foods-historically-and-culturally-important-to-north-americ/ https://www.gardenary.com/blog/what-crops-are-actually-native-to-north-america https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/history/densmore.html https://www.redwingminnesota.org/dakota-densmore https://www.mnopedia.org/person/densmore-frances-1867-1957 https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/151430#page/1/mode/1up https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/farmreports-12307-herrighty.pdf https://minnesotareformer.com/2020/11/24/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and-cultures/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/10-plants/corn https://www.redlakenationnews.com/story/2018/10/01/features/red-lake-corn/75293.html?m=true https://www.mnfuels.com/blog/88-octane/corn-on-indigenous-peoples-day/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astragalus_crassicarpus https://identify.plantnet.org/k-world-flora/species/Cucurbita%20maxima%20Duchesne/data https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbita_maxima https://minnesotagrown.com/wp-content/uploads/Winter-Squash.pdf Photo credits: www.educationthatinspires.ca (1), www.mnopedia.org (2), En.wikipedia.org (3)

< Back What to Do With a Round Zucchini? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Have you ever been gifted with a vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? Read this entertaining article to find out what Master Gardener Joy Johnson made with the large, round zucchini she received from a family member. Her clever recipe will inspire you! My brother-in-law stopped by for a visit on Monday. He handed me a round zucchini when he walked in the door with a big grin on his face. I didn’t know what it was at first. It was the size of a cantaloupe, dark green with dark orange stripes. I didn’t believe him when he said it was a zucchini. Have you ever been gifted with an interesting vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? I gave my neighbor a kohlrabi last summer and she had the same look on her face that I gave my brother-in-law when I handed it to her. I love to share my garden produce and I also enjoy trying new foods and veggies. I watched the large round zucchini for a couple of days as it sat on my counter staring back at me. It seemed friendly enough. I was scheduled to make dinner at my dad’s apartment on Thursday evening. I needed to come up with something I could make at his place that wouldn’t take too long, use too many dishes and utensils but would be healthy and tasty. I grabbed the zucchini, a half-used package of Cotija cheese (that was left from when I made Chile Rellenos), a handful of dried parsley. I stopped at the grocery store and bought a package of Uncle Ben’s Ready Rice (Red Beans & Rice flavor). That is something I’ve never used before. I usually make rice from scratch, but that takes time, and I knew I’d need something with a lot of flavors because zucchini is so mild. I also had a couple of slices of leftover ham. Now I just needed some side dishes to serve with the zucchini. I quickly made a lettuce salad and grabbed some leftover butternut squash. So, this was going to be a summer and winter squash supper! Here's my improvised recipe for the large round zucchini. Ingredients: 1 large round zucchini 1 pack Uncle Bens Ready Rice, Red Beans & Rice flavor 1 handful of dried parsley 2 thick pieces of ham, diced ½ cup Cotija cheese, crumbled Process: Slice the top off the zucchini as if you are going to carve it like a Jack-o’-lantern. Scoop out the seeds and stringy middle flesh and discard. Scoop out a little more flesh so you have about a 2-cup hollow. Cover the zucchini with its lid. Cook it in the microwave or oven until it just starts to get tender. It took mine 20 minutes in the oven, then 5 minutes in the microwave. If you bake it in the oven, put it in a pie plate and add water to the pie plate before putting it in to bake at 350 degrees. Dice the extra zucchini flesh that you scooped out. Cook the rice according to package directions, add the diced zucchini, the handful of dried parsley and the chopped ham. You may need to add 1/3 cup water or broth. You don’t want it soupy, but you need to cook the ham and the diced zucchini. Remove the large round zucchini from the oven or microwave. Scoop the cooked rice mixture into the zucchini, stir in the crumbled cheese, put the lid on it and heat it through in the microwave for about 3-5 minutes. Eat and enjoy! Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2)

< Back Microgreens - Only Micro in Size Did you think that you would have to wait until spring to grow fresh greens for your dinner table? Not so if you read this article and learn how to grow microgreens indoors. Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens-accept their size! Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens - except their size! A microgreen is a plant in between the sprout stage and the baby stage of development. When we eat microgreens, we are eating the cotyledon (the embryonic leaf or leaves inside the seed) and a few of the plant’s true leaves. There are many benefits to growing and eating microgreens. They go from sowing to harvest in one to three weeks with minimal opportunities for failure. They can be grown indoors year-round. According to research , t hey contain 4 to 40 times more nutrients than full-grown plants. There are many varieties of microgreens available to grow and they all provide a delicious and fresh addition to many meals even in the dead of winter. When selecting your first microgreen variety to grow, something from the mustard family (Brassicaceae)—such as arugula, mustard or radish—is a good place to start as they germinate quickly and have a lot of flavor. Microgreen growing kits are growing in popularity and offer an effortless first foray into microgreen enjoyment. Many seed catalogue companies—"Johnny’s” and “High Mowing Seeds” to name two—have extensive microgreen seed selections complete with growing guides and they also have any supplies needed to start your growing operation. Here is what you will need to grow microgreens at home: 1) Any clean container with drainage holes (existing or added): think mushroom containers, salad mix containers, bottom half of a milk jug or even an egg carton and a tray to set the container in; 2) Seed-starting mix; 3) Organic, non-GMO seed from a reliable seed source; 4) A spray bottle or misting pump-sprayer for watering the delicate seedlings; and 5) A window or grow light or combination of the two; enough to provide 16 hours of light per day and at least 6 hours of darkness. More extensive microgreen growing can be done just as easily by the at-home gardener by upgrading to standard greenhouse growing trays called 1020 flats, high-output grow lights, a fan running on the plants to inhibit the growth of fungus and mold and liquid seaweed nutrients added to the water to boost nutrient values after seed germination. When starting your microgreens, ensure your seed-starting mix is tamped down, moist (but not too wet) and about 1.5 inches in depth. Your seed source or packet should have variety-specific directions for how thickly to sow seeds in your container. Keeping the seeds moist and in contact with the growing medium until germination, is essential. A seed sprouting lid works well as do damp paper towels. When the seeds have fully germinated and there are visible roots coming through the drain holes in your container, you can start watering from the bottom to reduce the risk of fungal growth and damaging or flattening your plants during watering. Microgreens are tender, delicate and best when eaten raw after minimal handling. Harvesting should occur when the plants are between 2 and 4 inches tall and have at least one true leaf. Cut the plants off just above the level of the soil, lightly wash and completely dry in a salad spinner and enjoy. Cut greens can be stored in a closed plastic container or bag in the fridge for up to three days and washed before enjoying. Alternately, washed greens can be stored after completely drying them using kitchen or paper towels. Enjoy your fresh and vibrant greens on almost anything; sandwiches, salads, pasta, pizza, stir fry or all on their own. There is an abundance of reliable micro greens resources on the internet—here are a few: https://themicrogardener.com/easy-guide-to-growing-microgreens/ https://microgreensworld.com/ https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Protecting Our Trees from Invasive Species Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” This article defines and identifies the invasive species that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” We’re looking at a two part definition. In the first part we see that these species are not native to Minnesota. We often use such terms as exotic, alien, introduced, etc. There is an implication that all invasive species come from outside the United States. This is not always the case. These new pests simply come from outside Minnesota. In the second part of our definition the key word is harm. We are concerned with those pathogens, plants, animals or insects that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) The number one new pest facing our trees in Dakota County is the emerald ash borer (EAB) . The nearest confirmed sighting is in the area of Fort Snelling in Hennepin County and Highland Park in Ramsey County. The general rule that the insect can travel by itself somewhere between 13-15 miles in a given year implies that within a short period of time we will have confirmed sightings within Dakota County. Do you know the symptoms to look for? The first thing to look for is increased woodpecker activity. These birds know a tasty treat when they find one. This increased activity normally happens in the second year after EAB infestation and is followed by vertical splits in the bark and sometimes defoliation in the tree canopy. A closer inspection could then reveal the large s-shaped galleries under the bark and the D-shaped exit holes. These symptoms generally confirm that the tree has been infected. Gypsy Moth The second pest that we all need to be aware of is the gypsy moth . It attacks several varieties of trees but here in Minnesota aspens and oak seem to be the favorite. The gypsy moth caterpillars are capable of defoliating acres of trees. It has arrived in Minnesota! Not necessarily here in Dakota County, but it has invaded out state. Lake and Cook counties in the Arrowhead region have reached the point where they will be experiencing the first steps in a quarantine . How will it affect us? Most of us will not be directly affected. But if we have property in these counties or intend to vacation there we will feel the impact. Thousand Canker Disease Thousand Canker Disease is a third new pest that affects black walnuts. It is a fungus carried by the walnut twig beetle. When it enters the bark it leaves behind a fungus that causes a canker. If you have any black walnut trees you need to be concerned and be able to recognize it. For the rest of us you do need to know that it is now the law that black walnut wood of any size or shape cannot be imported into Minnesota. A quarantine is in effect that makes this illegal. Asian Longhorn Beetle The fourth pest emerging in Minnesota is the Asian Longhorn Beetle . While poplars, maples and box elders seem to be the preferred trees in Minnesota it also feeds on several other varieties which makes it especially dangerous. Signs and symptoms include crown die-back, shallow depressions in the bark where the eggs are laid, sap seeping from these egg niches, pencil-size round exit holes and a sawdust on the top of branches or on the ground surrounding the tree. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Two new and emerging pests do not actually kill the tree but both will damage the fruit the tree produces. The first is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug . It has been found in several Minnesota counties and is considered a pest because it feed on fruit and vegetables. The insect is also considered a nuisance as it invades houses and other buildings in the fall seeking warmth. When disturbed, it emits a foul odor. Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) is also a new and emerging pest and has been found in 20 counties in Minnesota. It is similar to a fruit fly. But unlike the typical fruit fly that feeds on damaged fruit, SWD feeds on intact, healthy, ripening fruit, especially thin-skinned berries. The female can pierce the soft skin and lay its eggs. In doing so there is also a possibility of an introduction of rot and fungus. So far in Minnesota the favorite has been raspberries. It has been known to attack apples and other tree bearing fruits. Oriental Bittersweet In our training one invasive plant was discussed. Oriental Bittersweet has been found in Dakota County in Burnsville and Eagan. It is a vine that can grow over 60 feet long and will girdle and smother trees and shrubs. It is spread by rhizomes and seeds, mainly through birds ingesting and then eliminating the seeds. Through this natural action, entire plant communities have been known to be overwhelmed. iI becomes our job to eradicate it. What Can I Do? We still need to answer one important question. What should be done if you suspect you have found one of these tree pests? There is an “Arrest the Pest” hotline you can email at arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or by phone at 888-545-6684. Doing so could help us protect our native trees.

< Back Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Mary Barnridge, Master Gardener Intern Consider composting to reduce costs of fertilizer and mulch for your garden, improve the quality of sandy or compacted soil, and save time and money with fewer trips to the store. Composting is an environmentally friendly alternative. ? Do your plants start to yellow as summer wanes? This could be an indication of a nitrogen deficiency in the soil (e.g. fertilizer). Compost provides nourishment to plants throughout the growing season. ? Do you struggle with keeping soil from drying out extensively during hot and dry periods? Compost can be used to retain moisture and encourage plant growth – in both garden plots and patio pots. ? Do you have plants that are struggling to thrive because the soil is too compacted from excessive moisture, or foot traffic, or perhaps it is sandy and drains too quickly? Compost can be used as a soil amendment to enrich the soil and address compaction and drainage issues. Making Your Own Compost - The Basic How-Tos Build the Compost Structure Locate he compost structure taway from your home but close enough to the garden to which it will be applied. Keep it away from drying winds and ensure it has at least partial sunshine each day. There are several materials that can be used to create the compost site: Wire fencing, brick/cinder block, a metal cylinder or wood/wire structure. Layer in the Initial Materials to Begin the Compost Process Build your compost pile in layers. Begin with eight to ten inches of leaves, grass or plant trimmings. Water it to the point of being moist, but not soggy. Sprinkle the pile with one-third to one-half cup of nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area (a 5' x 5' bin). You may choose to add a one-inch layer of soil or completed compost over the fertilizer to increase the number of decomposing microbes in the pile. Repeat these layers until the pile reaches a height of five feet, watering each time you add new layers. If your pile contains large amounts of acidic materials such as pine needles or fruit wastes, you might add lime, but no more than one cup per 25 cubic feet of material. Feed the Compost Site Many organic materials can be used as compost: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Non-woody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds What you shouldn’t include: Do not compost diseased or insect-infested plants and weeds. Do not compost meat, bones, grease, whole eggs and dairy products However, Dakota County accepts many of these items in their food scrap/organics drop off sites. For more information, including sign up and collection locations visit the Dakota County drop off site webpage . Pet litter should not be used in your home compost and is not accepted through the Dakota County program. Dakota County Food Scrap Drop Off Site. Dakota County Food Scrap Bins. Maintenance Turn the pile once or twice a month to help speed decomposition. Water your compost pile periodically to keep it moist but not soggy. You may add a small amount of new material to be composted but if you have a lot of new material, it is better to start a second batch. Your compost pile will be ready in two to four months in the warm season, provided you have watered and turned it regularly. Unmaintained piles may take over a year to decompose sufficiently. When it’s ready to use, your compost pile will be about half its original height, and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Use it or Lose it Use it as mulch in annual or perennial garden or patio pots Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the base of plants. Add more layers over the initial layer throughout growing season. The mulch can also be worked into the soil at the end of the growing season for annual gardens. Use it as a soil amendment For sandy soil, add and incorporate 1 inch of compost in the top 6 inches of soil. For compacted, clay soil, add 2 inches of compost to the top 8 inches of soil. Repeat annually Use it in potting soil One-quarter to one-third of potting mix may be compost. For more information about composting visit this University of Minnesota Extension site . References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Mary Barnidge (2 and 3)

< Back Food for Thought in the Home Landscape Everyone wants a yard that is both beautiful and functional. For anyone wanting to grow food and make their landscapes more productive, there are many ways to incorporate both, outside of the usual raised beds, berry bushes, and fruit trees. Many more plants and plant parts than you might think are edible, and you can create layered designs to maximize density and diversity. Read this article for ideas and resources that you can put to use in your own yard. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern When you think of an edible garden, what comes to mind? You might picture some raised beds filled with annual vegetables, a healthy patch of raspberries or rhubarb, or perhaps a small grove of dwarf fruit trees. Beyond these familiar and delicious friends, there are plenty of lesser-known roots, shoots, fruits and flowers that can be incorporated into your home landscape. The University of Minnesota Extension website provides a long of list fruits and flowers that can be grown in Minnesota and incorporated into your home landscape. Of course, only certain flowers are edible, so you must learn which flowers and which parts of a flower are edible. And make sure that the plants you eat have not been treated with harmful chemicals. Some examples of edible flowers listed by the U of M Extension at the above link are: nasturtiums, calendula, squash flower, borage, anise hyssop, bachelor buttons, beebalm and many more. Coneflower and Anise Hyssop If you are interested in exploring edibles and how they can be incorporated in your garden, visit the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Foodscape . The Foodscape at the Farm at the Arb is a great model of “sustainable landscape design that combines the intentional use of food plants for their edible qualities as well as their ornamental value.” Thankfully, there doesn’t always have to be a tradeoff between a yard that looks good and one that tastes good. Foodscape at the UMN Landscape Arboretum Many of us are limited on space for our gardens. In relatively small urban and suburban lots, our eyes can easily become bigger than our yards when it comes to the wide variety of tasty things we could grow. If so, you should become familiar with the food forest approach. A food forest is made up of a variety of plants that mimic growth patterns found in nature. A food forest typically includes larger food-producing trees, small trees and shrubs, and a floor of annuals, perennial, root and ground cover crops and vines. Food forest projects are often group partnerships which make use of larger growing areas. However, you don’t need room for a full “forest” to take advantage of planting in layers. Making full use of the canopy, understory, and floor is a great way to maximize diversity and yields in your home garden. There are also culinary and medicinal uses for many plants that were not intentionally cultivated. Dandelions are a well-known example; others such as plantain , purslane , and even the dreaded creeping bellflower provide some benefits. Learn more about what to look for at this U of M Extension article on weeds so that the next time you are out weeding, consider if there might be a few things you’d like to try in your next salad! What’s more, if you happen to have a taste for these plants, you can harvest to your heart’s content, knowing that you’re helping to strengthen your local ecosystem in the process. Inspiration abounds for expanding your palate and introducing some exciting new elements to your existing panoply of plants. Check out a few of these other Extension resources for more ideas and information: “Edible Gardens for People and Pollinators” - University of Minnesota Extension “The Incredible Edible Landscape” - Iowa State University Extension “Edible Perennials” - University of Illinois Extension “Foraging for Backyard Edibles” - North Carolina State Extension So, take advantage of this great research and put it to use in creating an attractive and edible garden in your yard. Reference: extension.umn.edu A home for homegrown food at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Ten Master Gardener volunteers were part of the team that built The Foodscape surrounding the new Burton and Virginia Myers Education Center. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Our State Fruit: Honeycrisp Apple From mysterious beginnings, to a world-famous apple breeding program at the University of Minnesota, thanks to the research and writing skills of a 4th grade class, the “Honeycrisp” apple became a Minnesota state symbol. Read this article to learn more about the interesting journey of this delicious fruit. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The road to becoming a state symbol begins with a motivated elementary classroom more often than not. In 2005, at Andersen Elementary School in Bayport, Minnesota, 4th grade teacher Laurel Avery made her students’ education come to life when she directed her class to write a persuasive letter. After learning that another 4th grade class had persuaded the state legislature to proclaim the monarch butterfly the Minnesota state insect several years earlier, Ms. Avery’s class set about researching the perfect candidate for the Minnesota state fruit. Since the University of Minnesota has a world- renowned apple breeding program, the 4th graders came up with an obvious choice: a true Minnesota state fruit, an apple that was created right here in Minnesota and became a favorite around the world; the award-winning “Honeycrisp” apple. While the “Honeycrisp” was “born” in Minnesota, its beginnings were somewhat of a mystery until very recently. For decades, the parentage of the “Honeycrisp” was mistakenly assumed to be the “Macoun” and “Honeygold” apples. This was due to a recordkeeping error in the 1970’s. Imagine thousands of research records dating back to the late 1800’s, the beginning of the University’s apple breeding program. The paper records were haphazardly stored in a fireproof vault. So, it wasn’t surprising that an error had been made in determining the apple’s lineage. Jim Luby, a professor in the Department of Horticultural Sciences, who along with Senior Research Fellow David Bedford, leads the University of Minnesota apple breeding program, tasked librarians and graduate student Nick Howard to sort all of the records and make sense of it all. As they tackled the monumental task, Nick Howard dug even deeper by cross-referencing the data with DNA tests. They ultimately concluded that “Honeycrisp” is the child of “Keepsake” and an unreleased apple “MN1627.” Like humans researching their genealogy, apple DNA testing along with the newly organized handwritten records allowed the apple breeders to trace the “Honeycrisp’s” ancestry all the way back to Europe. James Luby, left, and David Bedford Becoming a world-famous apple doesn’t happen overnight. The “Honeycrisp” was developed in 1960, patented in 1988, and not released until 1991. Here is the typical process: Year 1: Study various cultivars to choose parents with desired characteristics. Hand pollinate the flowers, germinate the seeds, plant the new trees in a greenhouse, and do DNA testing on a leaf from each plant that was grown to see which traits were passed on. Years 2-5: Graft successful matches onto dwarfing rootstocks and allow those trees to grow. First fruit appears at around Year 5. Fruit from every tree is tasted with about only 1 out of every 200 passing the taste test. The rest of the trees are discarded. Years 5-15: The trees that make it to this round of evaluation are cloned by budding/grafting onto common rootstock. For the next 10 to 15 years, these trees are evaluated by looking at 25 desirable characteristics, like texture, flavor, storage ability, disease resistance, etc. Like the previous round, most trees that get to this round will be discarded. Years 15-20: Trees that do make it to this round of evaluations are planted across Minnesota and the U.S. in diverse settings. Researchers see how they perform and if the growers have any interest in the apple. Years 20-25: Commercialization begins with naming, licensing, and distribution to growers to propagate the trees. Years 25-30: About 5 years after commercial growers propagate the trees, consumers can finally have access to the apple. The trees that were the result of the cross of “Keepsake” and “MN1627” that made it through all the rounds of evaluation were a huge success. The apple is grown around the world, and is known as “Honeycrunch” in Europe. The “Honeycrisp” has been described as explosively crisp and juicy. It can last at least 7 months if it is refrigerated. Its harvest season lasts from about September 15 to October 5. And, it is hardy all the way to zone 4. Since the “Honeycrisp” was released over 30 years ago, the next generation of apples with “Honeycrisp” as a “parent” have been released, including “First Kiss” and “Triumph.” Time will tell if they are as well liked as “Honeycrisp.” Thank you to Ms. Avery’s class, who made an excellent choice for their recommendation to the state legislature. Their persuasive writing skills clearly made an impact on their representatives who took their case to the capitol. And though they didn’t see success the first year, the following year as 5th graders, their letters and an apple song they wrote and sang to the tune of the Minnesota rouser convinced the state legislators to adopt the “Honeycrisp” as a fitting symbol of our state. Resources for this article: https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/fruit.pdf https://mnhardy.umn.edu/honeycrisp https://license.umn.edu/product/honeycrisp-apples---cold-hardy-minnesota-apple https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/apple-day-scientific-way https://www.continuum.umn.edu/2021/10/secrets-of-the-vault/ https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples https://www.duluthnewstribune.com/lifestyle/state-symbols-are-part-of-what-makes-minnesota-home https://andersen.stillwaterschools.org/our-school/andersen-school-supply-list https://horticulture.umn.edu/news/nicholas-howard-honeycrisp-family-tree https://www.ereferencedesk.com/resources/state-fruit/minnesota.html Photo credits: University of Minnesota Libraries (1), University of Minnesota College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences (2, 3), Anderson Elementary Stillwater Schools (4)

Join Us - Become a Master Gardener Volunteer If you have a love of gardening, a desire for learning and are willing to share your knowledge with others, consider becoming a University of Minnesota Master Gardener in Dakota County. Apply Applications for new Master Gardeners are accepted annually August 1 to Oct 1. You can find the online application form on the Become a Master Gardener page. Selection You will be asked to participate in an interview with our selection team and complete a volunteer background check. We may not be able to select all applicants. Internship Those selected begin a year as a University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener Intern. Interns must complete the Extension Master Gardener Core Course. The course is self-paced including weekly webinars and section quizzes. Instructors are University of Minnesota Extension educators and faculty. Topics include soils, entomology, gardening resources, diagnostics, trees, herbaceous plants, lawn care, plant pathology, and more. The Extension Master Gardener calendar year is January 1 to December 31. During the first year, interns must complete 50 hours of approved volunteer work on educational projects, often with other active Master Gardeners. Through the year interns report their volunteer hours online in the Extension Master Gardener database. All hours must be reported by December 31. Upon successful completion of the internship year, the intern becomes a certified Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer, receiving a certificate and official badge. For additional details and requirements review Steps to Becoming a Master Gardener . Remaining Certified Once certified, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers must volunteer a minimum of 25 hours and receive at least 5 hours of approved continuing education each year in order to maintain their certified, active Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer status. If combining your passion for people and plants sounds appealing, come grow with us! Remember, a formal education in horticulture isn’t necessary. We provide the training and resources to help you teach others. Apply Today

< Back Aromatic Aster: That Which We Call an Aster by Any Other Name Would Smell as Sweet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As summer winds down and our garden colors turn to reds and oranges, the blue and yellow of Aromatic Aster is a lovely pleasure. But its good looks aren’t even the best reason to grow Aromatic Aster. Read this article to learn more about why this midwestern native should have a place in your garden. Apologies to The Bard, but Symphyotrichum oblongifolium is known by several appellations including Oblong-Leafed Aster and Aster oblongifolius . Yet by any of these names it remains a fragrant, persistent, cheerful autumnal companion of our Midwestern prairies. You will find aromatic aster in dry, gravelly or rocky prairies, glades and savannas. When crushed, the foliage is pleasantly aromatic. It is relatively easy to grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. Once established, it usually is a quite hardy native perennial and will frequently self-seed. Being a good grower, it can crowd out less vigorous perennials. If that seems to be happening, you can trim it back through midsummer and still see a nice blooming in the fall when it produces abundant flowers in many shades of purple. Like other members of the Asteraceae family, blooming season is usually from late-August through early-November, although an early hard frost can end the show prematurely. Aromatic aster tends to grow in mounds of 24 to 30 inches in height. Thus, it functions well as a traditional flower border or an informal hedge, putting on a dazzling show in the late fall. It is a favorite of pollinators and creates a valuable fall source of nectar for many species, especially last-of-the-season butterflies. It is hardy in Zones 3 through 8. Thus, most of Minnesota provides a suitable climate. Aromatic aster is pretty much disease resistant although occasionally powdery mildew or lace bugs may be an issue. You may have to stake some of the plants in the fall as their abundant flower heads may otherwise weigh the plant down. Most of the time, however, aromatic aster does wonderfully well if left to its own devices. Photo Credit: Jason Grand www.inaturalist.org

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Raccoon Grape: Ampelopsis cordata A Tough Customer in the Beds Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month marks the beginning of a series by Master Gardener Jim Lakin on native vines. First up is the Raccoon Grapevine (Ampelopsis cordata). Raccoon Grapevine is quite a vigorous vine plant which, if managed well, will reward the grower with a spectacular display. Read this article to learn more about this hardy vine. You’ve probably never run into Raccoon Grape in any landscape manual. That’s because it’s a tough customer and will take over everything in its path. It puts out runners rambunctiously and self-seeds abundantly in disturbed soils (like a cultivated garden bed). Planted in harsh sites with poop, drought-prone soils it can spread to spectacular effect; however, I have had some in a potentilla bed next to the house. I let it spread up the banister, creating a lovely effect. Two or three times a season, however, I have to get into the bed itself and tear out the vine to give the potentilla a chance. It requires a little effort but the effect is spectacular. diagram of grape leaf and berry Now that you have been warned, let’s talk about the distribution and growth characteristics of this fellow. Raccoon Grape is common across the Midwest along the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. You’ll find it in hedgerows and disturbed soils all over lower Minnesota. It is said to be hardy through Zone 5, although it has done very well in our gardens in the south suburban Twin Cities. The vine is tolerant of a wide variety of soils and will grow vigorously from seed. Indeed, its strong point is its ability to go “where no plant has gone before”. Raccoon Grape leaf The flowers of Raccoon Grape are unremarkable but visited by a variety of small insect pollinators. The grapes are inedible but appear in early fall in a wide range of colors, ripening from a fuchsia pink to aqua and finally navy blue. They are big hits with songbirds and, you guessed it, raccoons. The leaves turn a sunny yellow in the fall. Raccoon Grape berry So, if you are careful in placement and not afraid of curbing the vigor of Racoon Grape, this can be a hardy, strategic addition to difficult spots as well as a beautiful accent to arbors or fences. Photo Credits: Missouri Department of Education; https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/raccoon-grape (1), www.missouriplants.com (2), Kansas Native Plants; https://kansasnativeplants.com/guide/plant_detail.php?plnt_id=153 (3)