< Back There's Always Next Year - Season End Reflections Fall is a logical time to reflect upon how your garden fared during the growing season. What went right, what went wrong, what lessons were learned? This season presented ample opportunity to learn some gardening lessons. Conditions tested even the most experienced gardeners and the most established gardens. Read about some of the problems that one Master Gardener tackled this summer and some lessons learned. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Fall is a logical time to reflect upon how your garden fared during the growing season. What went right, what went wrong, what lessons were learned? This season presented ample opportunity to learn some gardening lessons. Conditions tested even the most experienced gardeners and the most established gardens. Here are some of the problems I tackled this summer and some lessons learned. Fickle weather in 2021 First, spring 2021 didn’t just come early this year, it came and went in a flash. As the air warmed and hinted that winter was over, I, like other eager gardeners, welcomed the chance to get a jump on the season. I proceeded with caution though, as spring in Minnesota can often be unpredictable. Sure enough, weeks of early warming were followed by very cool temperatures. Lesson re-learned -wait to put out those tender annuals and tomatoes. Japanese Beetles With a couple of growing seasons under my belt, I felt well equipped to apply some proactive measures to my gardening skills this spring. In mid-April, I walked through my garden daily, watching for the buds of my crabapples to start waking up and make subtle changes each day as they neared full bloom. Last year, they bloomed on May 6 th , but this year, they bloomed a week earlier. I wondered if this meant that the Japanese Beetles would emerge a week earlier as well, and sure enough, they did. Luckily, I had decided to net their favorite tree. Unfortunately, the crafty beetles improvised, turning their attention to the two other crabapples in my yard that they had ignored in previous seasons. Lesson learned - have a plan. Timing is key and netting is a great option for smaller trees. Unfortunately, I didn’t have nets large enough for the more mature trees in the yard and will be taking alternative measures next spring to protect my crabapples. For more information on Japanese Beetles, please refer to my article on Japanese Beetles on the Dakota County Master Gardeners website. Dogs I naively assumed that this season would mirror the previous year and that my biggest challenge, once again would be the Japanese Beetles. But as we eased into the summer months, weeding and taking general care of the garden, the family decided that it would be a good idea to adopt a new dog, giving our existing dog a new playmate. Good for the dog, not so good for the garden. We were not prepared for the destruction that she would bring down upon our yard and gardens. The new dog enjoyed digging, racing through mulched beds, leaping into hydrangeas and drinking from the birdbaths. Between the two dogs, we had a combined weight of 140 pounds barreling through the gardens. Lesson learned - Sadly, dogs do not have the same respect for gardens as we do; however, there are a couple measures you can take to pet-proof your landscape: create a “living fence” of dense shrubs to protect more vulnerable plants, install fencing around a garden bed and finally, consider container gardening. Drought By June an unexpected and prolonged heatwave brought on a drought that stressed many lawns and gardens. I did my best to make sure that my plants were being watered adequately but frequent time away from home created pockets of neglect that became increasingly evident as the season progressed. Finally, at the end of August, the rain arrived. The lawn started to show signs of healing and flowers returned to their usual vigor. I had planned on having some new landscaping completed in August but it had been pushed back to September due to the hot, dry weather. By mid-September, after several days of good, soaking rain, new flowers beds were created, new trees were planted and some existing plants found more suitable places in the landscape. Lesson learned - Don’t panic. Many lawn grasses will go dormant under drought conditions. The first time you notice your lawn showing signs of drought stress, provide deep, infrequent watering (being sure to adhere to any water restriction guidelines in your area). Mowing higher will allow better moisture retention for the soil. Finally, do not apply any fertilizer to lawns experiencing drought stress as this will create additional stress for your lawn. Once the rains return, you should notice that your lawn returns to life. For any areas that remain brown and dry, they are likely dead and will need to be reseeded with dormant seeding sometime from late October to mid-November. Looking Ahead As I look back at my experience over the past growing season, I know that I will have a lot to think about over the upcoming winter. But, honestly, I’m ready for winter, for a break from a season of troubleshooting, to give myself and my garden a rest. These days I am focusing on providing my gardens with water to get them ready for winter, removing dead plants, mulching and taking lots of pictures so I know what plants are what when they emerge in the spring (I always forget!). In retrospect, it would be easy to say that my garden struggled this year, due in part to my own choices. For anyone else whose gardens didn’t quite live up to expectations this year, remember . . . “There are no gardening mistakes, only experiments.” - Janet Kilburn Phillips Here’s to a winter filled with grand designs and a spring ready for our ambition! Photo credits: Photo 1 - Luan Akin, Tagawa Gardens Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension Photo 3 – Irish News Photo 4 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Eradicating Invasive Honeysuckle in the Minnesota Landscape Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! This article tells you how to tell the difference and what to do about these invasive plants. Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! Here’s how to tell the difference and what to do about this invasive plant. Photo by Amanda Drews invasive honeysuckle thicket The invasive honeysuckle species taking over Minnesota woodlands crowds out native plants in much the same way as buckthorn. The plants send out chemical signals to inhibit the growth of nearby plants, have an early leaf out in the spring that shades the plants that do start to grow, and produce berries that have little nutritional value to birds. Areas with large amounts of honeysuckle make attractive bedding sites for deer and consequently, the deer ticks that cause Lyme disease come right along with them! The invasive species to watch for include the Amur ( L. maackii ), Tartarian (Lonicera tatarica ), Morrow’s ( L. morrowii ), and Bell’s ( L. x bella ) honeysuckles . If you are looking to eradicate invasive honeysuckles in your landscape, your first step would be to identify it. You don’t necessarily need to know which specific species it is. A good rule of thumb to rule out any of the invasives over our native honeysuckles is to look at the stems. If a plant over 2 years old has a hollow brown pith (core) it’s one of the four invasive species. So, get snapping and check your honeysuckles! Photo by Amanda Drews hollow stem of invasive honeysuckle In the spring when the ground is moist and right after leaf formation, you can try manually pulling or digging honeysuckles out. Just be sure you get the entire root crown removed. If you need to, you can spray the leaves with glyphosate but you must do it before other surrounding plants leaf out. Just as with buckthorn, the fall is the most effective time to treat with herbicides since plants will be pulling nutrients down into their roots. After cutting the stumps down to the ground, immediately spot treat the top with glyphosate or triclopyr as directed on the product label. Another effective treatment is using basal bark spray with triclopyr ester . If you are able to do prescribed burning, that will kill the top of the shrubs and seedlings but you will likely have to do repeat burns. Photo by Amanda Drews flowers of invasive honeysuckle To prevent the honeysuckle from returning, replant the area as soon as possible. winterberry, pagoda and gray dogwoods, common elderberry and black chokecherry are good substitutes for filling your spaces back in. Photo by Amanda Drews berries of invasive honeysuckle If you plan to replace your invasive honeysuckles with natives or just want to add some to your yard, there are two types of honeysuckles recommended by the University of Minnesota Extension to plant in Minnesota. The Southern bush honeysuckle ( D. sessilifolia ) which is a zone 4 plant and our native Northern bush honeysuckle ( Diervilla lonicera ) that is hardy to zone 3. These honeysuckles have several attractive features. Both tend to be adaptable to varying light levels as well as soil types, are good for erosion control and neither has serious pest problems. So, feel free to plant honeysuckles in your yard just be cautious about the type you are introducing into your garden. Photo by Amanda Drews Honeysuckle thicket before blooming Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/bush-honeysuckle https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/bush-honeysuckles.html https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods-news/scouting-invasives-species-fall https://mipncontroldatabase.wisc.edu/search?name=Morrow%27s_honeysuckle&habitat=7&season=8 https://news.wisc.edu/invasive-shrubs-increase-spread-of-tick-borne-disease/ Photo Credits: Amanda Drews (1-5)

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< Back Let Your Yard Take Flight with Bats Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Attract bats to my garden? Why would I want to do that? To understand why, you must read this fascinating article about the benefits of bats in the urban, suburban or rural garden. Learn more about how bats help to reduce the pesky mosquito population and benefit your garden soil. Learn how to attract local bat species and provide shelter for them. Beyond the benefits bats provide to our environment, they are interesting creatures as this article explains. If you want to reduce the insect pests in your garden or simply enjoy a more insect-free evening in your yard, consider gardening techniques that attract bats. Each Minnesota bat consumes about 1500 mosquito-sized insects each night, a meal equal to between 25% and 100% of the bats’ body weight. [1] Reduction in the mosquito population by bats has led to the reduction of mosquito-borne diseases, including the West Nile virus. Bats also come with the added benefit of natural, organic fertilizer – i.e. bat guano – that automatically helps fertilize your lawn and can be captured to help fertilize your garden. Beyond the gardening benefits of bats, bats devour enough insects every night to reduce agricultural pesticide use in the U.S., saving farmers about $3.7 billion dollars a year. In a similar fashion, bats eat forest insects that help preserve trees planted by the lumber industry [2]. In addition, bat research has led to advancements in navigational aids for the blind, use of sonar technologies and new medications (e.g. vampire bat saliva helps manage blood clots). [3] Read on to learn more about bats, gardening to attract bats and bat houses. Minnesota Bats (primary citation [1]) There are eight different bat species found in Minnesota, 42 species in the U.S. and over 1400 species around the world [4]. If you see a bat in Dakota County, you are likely observing a Big Brown Bat which is the most common bat species in Minnesota. Big Brown Bats are 4 to 6 inches in length and like most bats are very light, weighing 12 to 15 grams (less than 0.06 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 12 to 14 inches in flight and they can often be seen flying 20-30 feet above ground near treetops. Big Brown Bats will swoop through the air and to the ground to capture their preferred meal of flying and ground beetles. However, Big Brown Bats are feeding generalists and will devour many insects including mosquitoes, flies, stink bugs, wasps, moths and leafhoppers. [5] Big Brown Bats have long golden-brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have large pointy snouts, bright eyes and large rounded ears (see image A). Big Brown Bats are prevalent in Dakota County because they have adapted to urban living and can often be found roosting in buildings and other man-made structures. Big Brown Bat Each pregnant Big Brown Bat has a baby (called a “pup”) in June or July and will nurse their pups for 4-5 weeks. Big Brown Bats hibernate from November through April and generally will not travel more than 50 miles from their summer roosts to their winter hibernation site. Big Brown Bats are the only known Minnesota species that can hibernate in buildings to survive the winter. Other Minnesota bat species must find a cave or other underground habitat or must migrate over winter. The other species of bat that you may encounter in Dakota County is the Little Brown Myotis, also known as the Little Brown Bat. Little Brown Bats have also adapted to urban areas and may be found in buildings and other man-made structures. Little Brown Bats are 3 to 4 inches in length and weigh 7 to 12 grams (less than 0.03 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 8 to 11 inches in flight and they are often seen flying a few feet above water or near the top of bushes. Their preferred food is water insects like mayflies and midges. In addition, Little Brown Bats will eat mosquitoes, little flies, moths and beetles. [6] Little Brown Bat Little Brown Bats have short brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have small snouts, small eyes and pointed ears (see image B). Little Brown Bats hibernate in caves or mines and mate just prior to hibernation or during hibernation. Sperm is stored over the winter with female ovulation occurring just as the bats awake in the spring. Pups are born in May or June and are nursed for 3-4 weeks. Little Brown Bats will skim over the surface of water to drink or catch water insects. Therefore, proximity to water is important for Little Brown Bats. Little Brown Bats were the most prevalent bat in Minnesota but the species has been decimated by disease in recent years with a 90% population loss. The remaining species of Minnesota bats include the Eastern Red Bat, the Evening Bat, the Hoary Bat (Minnesota’s largest bat), the Northern Long-Eared Bat, the Silver-Haired Bat and the Tri-Colored Bat. It would be uncommon in Dakota County to observe any of these six species of Minnesota bats since they mostly live in forested areas and have not readily adapted to urban areas. Gardening to Attract Bats (primary citations [7]-[9]) Attracting bats to your yard starts by attracting the insects that bats eat, especially nocturnal insects. Moths may be the most well-known nocturnal insects and will be more prevalent in gardens that contain native plants with open blooms at night. Bee Balm, Evening Primrose, Goldenrod, Phlox, Purple Coneflower and Yarrow are good examples of native Minnesota flowers that have open blooms at night. A more comprehensive list of plants that attract moths has been supplied by the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. [10] Gardeners may be leery about attracting moths because of the perceived damage that moths inflict on plants. Moths do not eat plants; moth larvae eat plants. You can reduce the damage that moth larvae cause to garden plants by planting milkweed and native grasses in a remote location where the grasses can provide food and shelter to the moth larvae. The University of Minnesota has created a list of native grasses and the insects that the grasses attract. [11] Many insects create their homes in dead tree branches and dead trees. Therefore, you can increase the insect population and attract bats by allowing dead tree wood to remain in your yard. To attract beneficial beetles that are the favorite of Big Brown Bats, maintain a compost pile, keep piles of leaves, plant taller grasses, stop mowing part of your lawn and plant clover which attracts beetles. A couple of simple things that all gardeners can do to attract beetles is to maintain a container of rotting sticks and dead leaves and/or a mound of dirt without plants where beetles can make their homes. [12] In addition to attracting insects, additional tips that can help attract bats to your yard include: Plant native, flowering vines at the base of walls or fences. The vining spaces serve as temporary protective bat roosts when bats are flying at night. Minimize use of pesticides which can poison the insects that bats eat. Avoid using treated lumber in your yard because the chemicals may be absorbed by bats that come in contact with the lumber. Keep cats out of your yard since they will hunt bats. Provide a large-surface water source for the bats if a natural water source is not available. Install a bat house. Access to bat guano is an extra benefit to having bats in your yard. Always wear gloves and a mask when handling bat guano and wash your hands and clothes after working with bat guano. Bat guano has an NPK of about 10-3-1 and is a longer lasting fertilizer that is not easily washed away with the rain. Using bat guano that you collect rather than buying bat guano fertilizer helps conserve bat populations since store-bought fertilizers generally require people to disrupt bat caves. You can differentiate between bat guano and droppings from other animals by squishing the poop and holding it up to a light. Bat guano will glitter due to the remains of hard insect shells that cannot be digested by bats. If the poop you find is dull, it is not bat guano. Moderate amounts of bat guano may be added to your compost pile and may accelerate the decomposition process. In addition, gardeners may sprinkle bat guano in the garden or make bat guano tea to spray on leaves to protect the plants from fungal diseases. You can make bat guano tea by wrapping ½ cup of bat guano in cheese cloth and letting the guano stew for three days in a gallon of water. Excess bat guano may be disposed of at The Recycling Zone in Eagan and should not be added to any curbside pickup bins. [13][14] Interesting Bat Facts and Myths Bats are the only mammal capable of true flight. [19] Bats can live to be over 30 years old in the wild but the average life expectancy is between 6 and 7 years. About 50% of bats die during their first winter. (a) Female bats typically have one baby per year with little reproductive decline as they age. Gestation time varies based on bat species, temperature and precipitation. Minnesota bat gestation times range from 40 to 70 days. (a) Some bats in warmer climates eat nectar, helping to pollinate plants such as agave which is critical in the production of tequila. There are also bat species that eat fruit, fish, frogs and lizards. [4][19] Bats do not drink the blood of humans. However, there are three species of vampire bats primarily found south of the U.S. that will bite animals such as livestock and lick their blood. [20] Brown bats use echolocation to detect objects up to 30 to 66 feet away. Bats are not blind and may use vision to see beyond their echolocation boundaries. [15] Bats do not sweat but will drink water, lick themselves, or sometimes urinate on themselves to cool off. [15] Bats may enter a state of “torpor” to conserve energy during cooler hours. Bats take 40 minutes on average to emerge from torpor and be able to fly, which puts bats at risk from predators or other negative disturbances during the torpor period. Torpor is different from hibernation in that torpor can last a few minutes to a few hours whereas hibernation can last the entire winter season. [21] Bats reduce their energy expenditure by 98% during hibernation, lowering their heart rate from 200-300 beats per minute to 20 beats per minute. [21] Bats prefer to fly where there is protective cover within 30 to 90 feet. Bats will rarely cross more than 300 feet of open space since it makes them vulnerable to night-flying predators such as owls. [15] Seeding a bat house with bat guano to attract bats is a myth and has not been proven to help attract bats to a new bat house. [16] Some bats will somersault in the air when approaching a roost in order to land up-side-down which is their normal position while roosting. [15] An estimated 200,000 to 500,000 bats are killed each year by wind turbines. This number is expected to grow as use of wind energy grows. Scientists do not fully understand why bats do not naturally avoid wind turbines. [4] Less than 0.5% of bats contract rabies each year, making rabies a rare disease among bats. [15] Rabies is even more rare in humans with fewer than 10 cases a year reported in the U.S. Humans may contract rabies if bitten or scratched by a rabid animal or directly exposed to fluids of a rabid animal. [22] Humans should avoid approaching bats and should never touch a bat without wearing gloves and possibly other protective clothing. As a precaution, pets should be vaccinated for rabies if bats live nearby. Bats are more closely related to humans than to mice. [19] Guidelines For Bat Houses (primary citation [15]) If this article has convinced you about the benefits of bats in your area, you may want to consider a bat house. A bat house may be beneficial if some natural habitat features exist and: the natural habitat is not sufficient to support the local bat population, or you are trying to increase the local bat population, or you plan to move bats out of a local building (never disturb bat roosts during March through August, the gestation and lactation months). Not all bat species will utilize bat houses but Minnesota’s Big Brown Bats and Little Brown Bats have been observed in bat houses. Generally, if a bat species is willing to live in a building, the species will also be willing to live in a bat house. Bats may occupy bat houses from early spring through early autumn. Bats do not overwinter in bat houses but instead find more suitable hibernation habitats (e.g. caves, mines, buildings) to protect themselves in winter. When considering a bat house, first assess the area for natural habitat that my attract bats. Natural bat habitats include a nearby body of water, large tree canopy cover for bat protection, sufficient sunlight to warm the roost and an abundance of flying insects. Bats naturally roost in tree crevices and cavities where tree rot, birds (e.g. woodpeckers) or other animals have created holes in the wood. Bats prefer roosting in live trees but will also roost in dead trees. Little Brown Bats will sometimes roost under peeling or loose tree bark. Bats may also roost in caves, mines and rock crevices. Bats require multiple roosting sites in an area because mothers and their pups roost separately from males and non-maternity females. In additions, multiple roosting sites are needed to accommodate microclimate changes – e.g. bats may move to a cooler site on hot days. Bats usually adopt a primary roost along with several secondary roosts and have been observed to switch roosts as often as every 2 to 3 days. However, mothers and babies will remain in a roost longer during the maternity and lactation periods and typically return to the same maternity roost year after year. If you install a bat house, will the bats come? Bats identify new roosts while foraging at night. Attracting bats to new bat houses will be more successful if bats are observed close to the planned bat house site before a house is installed. About 50% of urban bat houses and 60% of all bat houses are inhabited by bats. These figures rise to 80% for bat houses that are at least 25 inches tall with the highest inhabitant rates observed for multi-chamber maternity houses and rocket houses. Of the inhabited houses, 50% were inhabited in the first year with 90% inhabited within the first two years. A small percentage of houses were inhabited in the three-to-five-year range but you may want to consider relocating and/or upgrading your bat house if the house has been empty more than two years. [16] Note that bats may treat your bat house as a temporary migration site or a short-term secondary roost site. Both of these uses are important for bats but may make it challenging to verify that bats occupy the house. Install a bat guano catch container beneath your house or install a camera near the bat house to better determine if bats are using your house. Follow the guidelines noted below regarding bat house placement and design to maximize your chances of having bats move into your bat house. Locate bat houses in sites that meet the natural habitat requirements as much as possible – i.e. multiple houses with diverse designs should be placed where there is water and trees nearby, with some houses in sun and other houses in part shade. Bats may overheat in bat houses on sunny, hot days so bats need nearby cooler houses to survive the heat. Ideally, three bat houses should be installed in the same general area (less than 300 feet apart), with one facing east (morning warmth), one facing south (all-day warmth) and one facing west (evening warmth). North-facing houses will likely be too cold to attract bats. Bat houses may be attached to buildings (retain the most heat at night), to poles or to trees that have tall, pole-like trunks that are clear of branches. When attaching a bat house to a building, use 2” to 4” spacers behind the house to reduce the amount of bat guano that may land on the building. Bat houses attached to trees will generally be used by bats as secondary houses due to shade and lack of clearance around the house. Poles or trees should be wrapped with metal or another surface that discourages ground predators from climbing into the bat house. Bat houses should be installed at least 10 to 16 feet above ground level with 10 feet of clear space below the bat house since bats usually drop from the house and then take flight. Remove any thorny bushes or plants with burrs found underneath the bat house to protect the bats from potentially getting tangled in harmful plants. If water containers (e.g. bird baths, cattle troughs) are near bat houses, ensure that each container has rough sides or some device that would allow bats to crawl out of the water. Do not install bat houses close to wires, poles or tree branches that could interfere with bat flight or where predators may wait to attack bats as the bats emerge from their houses. Avoid sites that are noisy, dusty (e.g. near dirt roads) or subject to industrial pollutants. Do not put bat houses where there is artificial light at night (e.g. near a streetlight). Find alternative sites if local insects are regularly subject to pesticides or other substances poisonous to bats. Avoid sites with high human traffic where bats may be vulnerable to human interference. Finally, steer clear of windy sites, especially around wind turbines that are known to be lethal to bats. Once you have selected a bat house site, you may choose to purchase or build your bat houses. Good bat houses will be much larger than bird houses (typical size is 35” x 18” x 7”) and should contain multiple interior chambers that allow bats to move to the best microclimate within a house at different times of the day. Bat houses should be taller than they are wide and contain a few vented chambers which also helps create multiple microclimates within the bat house. Bat houses should not be built with chemically treated wood because bats may absorb or ingest the chemicals during grooming. However, the exterior of bat houses must be waterproofed, seams should be caulked and a roof should be installed to protect the bats from precipitation. Bats have shown a preference for dark-colored exteriors but secondary bat houses may be lighter colored to accommodate a cooler interior. Wooden bat houses should be constructed with screws rather than nails since nailed seams are more likely to gap open as wood ages. bat houses The interior chambers of bat houses should include grooved sides which aids bats when crawling around the bat house. Screening or other similar material is not recommended for the interior of bat houses since bat guano may become lodged in the screen. Bat houses should be inspected monthly when inhabited and cleaned once-a-year during winter when bats are hibernating at a different site. Spiders, spider webs, wasps and wasp nests should be removed from the bat houses during the annual cleaning. Although some wasps may survive in concert with bats, wasp nests may grow large over the years and take over too much space in the bat house. The bat house may be washed out with water or a 5%-10% bleach solution which can reduce parasites. If you want to build a bat house, free bat house plans with detailed instructions are available from Bat Conservation International [17][18]. If you want to purchase a bat house, be cautious when exploring non-specialty retailers. You may get a higher qualify bat house if you buy from organizations that have been certified by Bat Conservation International such as BatGoods.com ( http://www.batgoods.com/category/Bat-Houses-by-BCM-58 ) or Fly By Night Inc. ( http://www.flybynightinc.org/houses_files/bhbuy.html ). Bibliography (a) “Bats of Minnesota”, Minnesota DNR, 2025 http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mammals/bats.html [2] USGS, FAQ: “Why are bats important?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/why-are-bats-important#:~:text=By%20eating%20insects%2C%20bats%20save,53%20billion%20dollars%20per%20year . [3] “The Benefits of Bats”, Bureau of Land Management, http://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files/benefits_of_bats_brochure.pdf [4] “State of the Bats, North America 2023”, Bat Conservation International http://digital.batcon.org/state-of-the-bats-report/2023-report/ [5] “Big Brown Bat”, National Park Service, http://home.nps.gov/shen/learn/nature/big-brown-bat.htm#:~:text=Numerous%20feeding%20studies%20of%20big,Whitaker%20and%20Hamilton%2C%201998 [6] “Little Brown Bat”, Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources, http://dwr.virginia.gov/wildlife/information/little-brown-bat/ [7] “Creating a Garden for Bats”, Bat Conservation International, March 2023, http://www.batcon.org/creating-a-garden-for-bats/ [8] “Night Shift Pollinators”, Minnesota State Horticultural Society, June 2021 http://northerngardener.org/night-shift-pollinators/ [9] “Bats & Blooms: Creating a Bat-Friendly Native Plant Garden”, National Wildlife Federation, http://gardenforwildlife.com/blogs/learning-center/bats-blooms-creating-a-bat-friendly-native-plant-garden?srsltid=AfmBOorPeLd4w409QCgIl-bdZG3ZqArTpV6i4aUkXEuN7LTurgZpfjy2 [10] “Native Plants for Pollinators and Beneficial Insects: Midwest Region”, Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, http://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/22-025_01_NPPBI%E2%80%94Midwest_web.pdf [11] “Native Grasses Benefit Butterflies and Moths”, University of Minnesota Extension, http://grasses.cfans.umn.edu/sites/grasses.umn.edu/files/files/native_grasses_benefit_butterflies_and_moths_0.pdf [12] “Gardeners urged to help beetles”, The Wildlife Trusts, http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/news/gardeners-urged-help-beetles#:~:text=Build%20a%20beetle%20bank%20%E2%80%93%20Adding,Beetle%20%C2%A9northeastwildlife.co.uk [13] “The Scoop on Bat Poop”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/the-scoop-on-bat-poop/ [14] “How to Use Bat Guano Fertilizer Safely in Your Garden”, Epic Gardener, http://www.epicgardening.com/bat-guano/ [15] “Best Management Practices for the Use of Bat Houses in U.S. and Canada”, Wildlife Conservation Society Canada produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative, September 2023, http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 [16] “Attracting Bats”, Bat Conservation International and Colorado State University, http://sam.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/05/attractingbats.pdf [17] “Four-chamber Nursery Bat House”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/4-Chamber-Nursery-House-Plans.pdf [18] “Two-chamber Rocket Box”, Bat Conservation International, http://batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/RocketBoxPlans.pdf [19] “Beneficial bats help control insects in the garden”, Oregon State University, May 2023, http://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/beneficial-bats-help-control-insects-garden [20] USGS, FAQ: “Do vampire bats really exist?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/do-vampire-bats-really-exist [21] “How Bats Survive Minnesota Winters”, Three Rivers Park District, http://www.threeriversparks.org/blog/how-bats-survive-minnesota-winters [22] “Bats Lead in U.S. Rabies Risk”, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 2019 http://archive.cdc.gov/www_cdc_gov/media/releases/2019/p0611-bats-rabies.html Photo credits: Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/big-brown-bat.png (1), Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/little-brown-myotis.png (2) , Conservation Society Canada, produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative. http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 (3)

< Back Best Time to Prune Trees Faith Appelquist, Master Gardener Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. If it is between opening up a wound to heat or opening to the cold, opening the wound to the cold is best. Optimally, the perfect window would be past February and into March. The chance of frostbite on the sensitive cambium is less, and the sap is not rising. When certain species are trimmed during the growing season, such as American Elms or Oaks, pheromones (scents) are given off at the wound, attracting insects that can carry fungus on their bodies that can infect these trees. These trees are best pruned in the fall or early spring. Deadwood should be pruned anytime because it is a health and safety issue. Deadwood is food for decay organisms and the quicker it is removed from a tree the sooner it can start closing the wound and preventing the spread of decay. If the tree was planted for its spring flowers, such as magnolia, dogwood, crabapple, you will want to wait until after it has flowered to prune. Otherwise you prune flower buds off and reduce the abundance of flowers that spring. For certain species such as maples and birches, I would trim these in the summer to minimize sap oozing or ‘bleeding’. Pruning during full leaf is fine, but dormant season is probably still best for tree health.

< Back Growing Terrific Tomatoes Unknown Master Gardener 1) Purchase Healthy Plants Buy from local grower Bushy, disease free plants (no yellow leaves, no spots on leaves, stems) Disease resistant. Check tag: VFH. V=Verticillium, F=Fusarium wilt, N= Nematode resistance. Select local varieties, buy more than one variety 2) Good Soil Have soil tested. Call: 612.625.3101 Add good amount of organic matter - well-rotted manure, compost Watch PH Plant in pots? Change soil every year to prevent diseases Go to www.extension.umn.edu and click on GARDEN for more information 3) Location, location, location Minimum of 6 - 8 hour of sun ideal Near water source Rotate crops every year on a 3 year cycle Keep good records 4) Plant Correctly Don’t rush the season (plant 10 days AFTER the last frost date in your area) Harden off plants Don’t plant when soil is wet – stay out of garden when wet Pinch off lower branches, leaving few at top of plant, all fuzzy hairs of stem will become roots. Plant sideways in trench Dig out a shallow trench Remove lower stems and branches Lay entire plant down in trench on side Cover with soil 5) Don’t Crowd Plants Tomato plants get very large Need air circulation which will help dry leaves and prevent disease Will have more tomatoes when given adequate space to grow 6) Fertilize Plants Feed with balanced fertilizer Beginning after first fruit set 7) Mulch Soil Mulch is fabulous garden tool: Helps prevent weeds Will hold moisture in soil Helps prevent water splashing on leaves which helps prevent disease Mulch soil a few weeks after planting Types of mulch: wood chips, newspaper (not color), straw, grass clippings (no chemicals) 8) Water Plants regularly and deeply: Tomatoes require consistent moisture to produce a crop of smooth and unblemished fruit A tomato is 95% water! Need lots of water to grow and develop fruit Should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. No overhead watering…no sprinkler. Water splashes on leaves and causes soil to splash on leaves. Soaker hose is best Water plants at base Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light watering will encourage weak root system. Watch container plants…anything in pot. plastic heats up quickly may need to be watered twice a day 9) Keep Plants off the Ground Staking plants will help reduce losses due to leaf diseases Keep fruit off the ground Round metal cage (heavier metal the better) Metal stake in ground/ Metal cage Use twisty ties to hold up branches to cage…be gentle Easier to pick tomatoes when ripe…do not let over ripen. 10) Clean Up Garden Area after Harvest Some pathogens over-winter on infected plant debris Important to dispose of: rotted tomatoes infected plants infected leaves infected weeds Leaf fungus can persist in soil Tomato Dictionary Determinate : Tomato plants whose vines make little or no growth once fruit is set. Most of the fruit develops at the same time. Indeterminate: Vines keep producing new shoots, blossoms and fruit throughout the growing season. Heirloom Tomatoes are open pollinated plants. They often do not produce as many tomatoes as hybrids, but typically taste better. Hybrid Tomatoes are plants that have been controlled breeding and have some good qualities such as disease-resistance bred in them. LINKS UMN Extension – Disorders of Tomatoes UMN Extension – Growing Tomatoes, Peppers & Eggplants in Minnesota Home Gardens

< Back Red Pine (Pinus resinosa): Star of the North Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener What tree is as Minnesotan as hot dish or dessert bars? It’s red pine, of course. This state tree is not for the small lot but will be a striking addition to the larger lot or farmstead. Read more about this stately native in this article, the last of Jim Lakin’s series on native trees for Minnesota gardeners. It’s the state tree of L‘Étoile du Nord , which, of course, is the state motto of Minnesota. Indeed, red pine is as Minnesotan as hot dish and dessert bars. So where does this venerable conifer fit into the landscaping picture? It probably is not the best choice for a small lot, growing 65 to 115 feet in height with about a 3-foot trunk. In larger lots or farmsteads, however, stands of the tree it can make a striking addition or serve as an admirable windbreak. It is native to the Upper Midwest with a range from Newfoundland west to Manitoba and south to Pennsylvania with populations down the Appalachian mountain range. It is sometimes called “Norway pine.” It is hypothesized that this name came from early Norwegian settlers mistaking it for the Scotch pine found back home. At least that’s what the Swedes say! a stand of red pine Red pine grows in full sunlight, shooting up straight and true. This growth feature made it especially attractive to lumbermen of the early 19 th century, leading to the great lumber baron fortunes of that period (and the despoliation of countless acres of Minnesota woodland). Interestingly, red pine is self-pruning. Thus, you don’t see dead branches below the canopy in forests. The needles are long, dark yellow-green and brittle. Pine cones are classic 1 ½ to 3 ½ inch long and broad. The bark forms reddish-brown plates as the tree matures; thus, the name red pine. reddish brown bark of red pine In sighting red pine, be aware that you may get by with part sun, but it is quite intolerant of full shade. It is hardy from Zones 2 through 5, so that means all of Minnesota. It will grow on nutrient-poor, sandy soil unfavorable to most species. It likes average moisture in well-drained loam. Although it is grown, plantation style in straight rows for the lumber industry, red pine is also abundant in our northern forests. It serves as nesting habitat for eagles as well as other birds. In cold, northern climates, red pine has few problems. However, in warmer climates as seen in the southern part of the state, it may fall prey to a number of insect pests and diseases. Needle cast, needle blight, root rots, bark cancer and rusts may be issues. Budworms, sawflies, pine beetles, tussock moth and pine needle miners can plague the tree. red pine cone So, if you have the appropriate site, consider red pine. A healthy, established stand will be a stately joy for many years. Life spans up to 500 years have been reported for this hardy Star of the North! Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels sprouts need a northern garden environment to thrive. Cool autumn air and frost intensifies the sugars in the sprouts, enhancing their flavor. This characteristic means that brussels sprouts are often the last plants standing in a Minnesota garden. Read on to learn more about Brussels sprouts and discover the best way to care for sprouts from late summer through harvest. Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels Sprout Heritage Brussels sprouts are part of the Brassica oleracea family (generally called “mustards”) that also includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and collard greens. They are believed to be descended from wild Mediterranean kale grown in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts, as the little baby cabbage vegetable we know today, were developed in the vicinity of Brussels, Belgium in the 13th century, becoming popular there in the 16th century. It took another two centuries for European settlers to introduce Brussels sprouts to North America in the 18th century and another couple of centuries to establish Brussels sprouts as a viable large-scale commercial crop in California in the 1900s. Today, the U.S. produces about 70 million pounds of Brussels sprouts annually. Brussels sprouts have been cultivated and improved in the last century. Sprouts as we know them today have been bred to have higher sugar content and lower glucosinolates (i.e. sulfur smell, bitterness), making them a more appealing vegetable for the American palate. Brussels sprouts are now often found in high-end restaurants served as an appetizer, in salads or as a side dish. Late Season Care Brussels sprouts may remain in the garden through October and possibly into early December in a mild winter year. Brussels sprouts will readily survive in temperatures as low as 20 degrees but will die out when temperatures drop to 10 degrees or lower. In fact, Brussels sprouts need one or two frosty mornings before harvest to reduce any bitter flavors and concentrate the sugars in the sprouts. To keep your Brussels sprouts healthy during the late season, follow these gardening tips: Stop Fertilizing. Do not fertilize Brussels sprouts after the sprouts have started to grow in mid-summer. You will see the sprouts growing on the stalk of the plant next to the leaf stems. Mulch. Add a fresh layer of mulch around the plants to keep the ground temperature and moisture more uniform. Leave about a 3” ring of clear ground around the stalks to reduce the chance of rot. Water. Continue to water the Brussels sprouts plants until harvest. Generally, Brussels sprouts need about an inch of water per week. However, the ground may retain water longer during cool weather so it is good to check if water is needed before watering. If the top one to three inches are dry when you poke your finger into the soil, then add water. Water around the base of the plant and avoid watering the leaves which could encourage disease. Stake. Healthy Brussels sprouts will continue to grow taller and develop more sprouts along the newer stalks throughout the long growing season. Therefore, consider staking the plants in the autumn. Staking will help support the weight of the growing sprouts. Staking will also promote air flow which can reduce the chances of disease. Trim. Commercial farmers trim leaves from Brussels sprout plants to concentrate the growth into the sprouts. While this action is not necessary for the home gardener, trimming leaves will improve airflow and may encourage sprout growth. Start by trimming the bottom 6-8 leaves and any yellowing leaves. An additional 2-3 lower leaves may be trimmed each week to allow room for the sprouts that intersect those leaf stems to grow. Be sure to keep the largest and healthiest leaves at the top of the plant since they are needed to feed the plant. Top Off. Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the stalk upwards – i.e. the sprouts at the bottom will be larger than the sprouts at the top of the plant. To encourage the upper sprouts to develop faster, you can cut the off the top 2” to 5” of the main stalk. Top off Brussels sprouts 20 to 45 days prior to final harvest (usually end of August or mid-September in Minnesota). Wrap. If you want to keep Brussels sprouts happy through a few freeze/thaw cycles, you could build a burlap-wrapped structure around the plants. This protection may help when night temperatures dip into the 20s, but the structure will not keep the plants alive during a longer stretch of harsher winter weather. Observe. Brussels sprouts will send you signals if they are not healthy. The plants may wilt or turn yellow during an autumn heat wave. Leaves may yellow and the plants may bolt if the plants are overwatered. Alternatively, brown spots and edges may develop on the leaves or sprouts if the plants are too cold. The newest growth will usually show signs of stress first. Be prepared to adjust your care and possibly your harvest time to accommodate the plants’ conditions. Harvesting and Storage Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the sprouts are solid, bright green, 1-2 inches in diameter and tightly wrapped. Most of the leaves should still be green; do not wait until the leaves have turned yellow or are dying. In addition, the plants will be 2-3 feet tall and approximately 80-100 days old depending on the variety (check the seed package). Wait to harvest until after one or more light frosts which will improve the flavor of the Brussels sprouts. Generally, Brussels sprouts are harvested mid-September to late October in Minnesota. A healthy Brussels sprout plant will yield between 60 and 100 sprouts. Partial Harvest. Brussels sprouts start losing their flavor within a day or two of being picked. You can retain the fresh flavor of the Brussels sprouts over a longer period by picking only some of the sprouts while maintaining the plants in the garden. The plants will continue to grow and produce more sprouts on the new growth until the plants are topped off. Harvest the sprouts near the bottom of the plant first. To pick a sprout, hold the sprout where it meets the stalk and quickly twist the sprout to snap it off. Alternatively, you can cut the sprout off the stalk with a knife. Remove the leaves left on the stalk near the sprouts you picked. Dispose of any yellow, brown or squishy sprouts and leaves. Dust off the sprouts but do not wash the sprouts before storing. Store the sprouts in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator where sprouts should last for a week or more. Alternatively, sprouts may be blanched and frozen for up to a year. Complete Harvest. Harvest the entire Brussels sprouts plant when the temperature drops below 25 degrees on a regular basis. To harvest, remove all remaining leaves and then cut the entire stalk one inch above the soil line. Leave the healthy sprouts on the stalk but remove any sprouts that are discolored or show signs of rot. Hang or stack the stalks in a cold storage area (e.g. garage, cellar or refrigerator). A harvested stalk can be stored for 3 to 5 weeks at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, 32o is the temperature that keeps sprouts the freshest for the longest in storage or the garden. Avoid storing Brussels sprouts with apples, pears, or other fruits which will increase the sprouts’ bitter flavors. After the Brussels sprout harvest is complete, it is best to remove the entire plant from the garden. The plants may be composted or burned. Remember to rotate crops in next year’s garden; a 3-4 year rotation is recommended for all members of the Brassica oleracea family. Then, pull out one of your favorite Brussels sprouts recipes and enjoy! If you want to learn more about growing Brussels sprouts, please visit: https:/ extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts#direct-seeding-229361 http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-brussels-sprouts-home-garden http://extension.illinois.edu/gardening/brussels-sprouts http://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/brusselsprout2011.pdf http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-brussels#:~:text=The%20precursors%20to%20modern%20Brussels,crop%20in%20the%2016th%20century . Photo credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (2)

< Back Lop & Lose Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners While March is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs in your garden; note that it is NOT the time to prune those that bloom in the spring. Pruning your spring blooming trees and shrubs may kill blooms that are forming. These plants should be pruned right after they bloom in the spring. Read this article for valuable information about pruning some of your most beautiful spring blooming shrubs. Blossoms that is. Patience pays for those spring blooming shrubs and small trees gracing your landscape. While March is the perfect time to prune almost everything else it is several months early for those spring flowering ones. Ideally, the plants listed below are best shaped RIGHT AFTER blooming, before next year’s flower buds are set. Even waiting a month or two after flowering to trim these plants can mean losing next year’s blooms. LILACS Lilacs benefit by pruning AFTER blooming. Lilacs can be pruned very severely for renovation with the understanding that it may take several seasons of growth for a good flower show. Since lilacs live so long they often grow out of their appropriate space in the landscape with dead and unsightly sections. Often shade has been created over them over the years which makes them spindly and the flowers sparse. Pruning helps here but lilacs and shade are not a good mix. Unfortunately, lilacs will regrow from roots so removing them means repeat pruning of the new growth or digging out the roots. FORSYTHIA The bright yellow flowers of forsythia are so welcome in early spring that patience here will definitely be rewarded. This plant tends to be rather rangy in habit and benefits from regular trimming to keep it attractive in all seasons. AZALEA & RHODODENDRON While most specimens really don’t need pruning because they tend to keep a dense, organized structure, some might need restraining, balancing or thinning in the inner areas for more light and air. In northern climates, azaleas tend to create larger, more dense and flower covered specimens if they are planted with more sun rather than more shade as in the south. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas are of two major categories: flowering on new wood and flowering on old, or last year’s wood. The key to pruning is to know which you have. Ones that flower on new wood can be pruned very aggressively and still produce a summer crop of vegetation and flowers. Ones that flower on last year’s wood should NOT be pruned early but do look better if old blossoms are snipped or snapped off early in the growing season. New flowers will be produced of course but the dead ones will sully the look. MAGNOLIAS Fortunately, Magnolia flower buds are very obvious. They practically scream: “don’t cut me!” Magnolias in a sunny location don’t need much pruning generally but they often do need removal of suckers around the trunk. Mock Orange, Virburnum, Chokeberry, Serviceberry, Ninebark, Weigela, Spirea and Fothergilla are other spring bloomers which, if they need any pruning which most do not, should be pruned after flowering. Photo Credit: Gurneys (1), Michigan Bulb Co. (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3,5) & Julie Harris (4)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 1 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the first in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. (This is the first in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Pollinator gardens are popping up everywhere but what are they? Pollinator gardens are designed to support and maintain pollinators by supplying food, both pollen and nectar for pollinators. Ok, so what is a pollinator? Common pollinators include: insects and animals such as bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, birds, flies and small mammals, including bats. Pollinators help carry pollen from the male part of a flower (stamen) to the female part of the same or different flower (stigma). This movement of pollen results in flower fertilization and the production of fruit, vegetables or seeds. Why are pollinators so important? One in three bites of food we eat exist because of pollinators 75% of all flowering plants on earth are pollinated by insects and animals Pollinator plants help to clean our air supply, provide oxygen, prevent soil erosion and support wildlife G iven the importance of pollinators and the challenges they are facing I decided I needed to do what I could to help them. But where to start? I signed up for a webinar hosted by Scott County for their “Lawns to Legumes” program. One of the topics was pocket pollinator gardens . After this webinar, I’m definitely creating a pollinator garden! And I was ready to get started. Something I recommend is starting your plan earlier rather than later. I started planning in April and some of the native plants I wanted to order were already out of stock! The project manager in me needed a plan. Here are some major steps to creating a new pollinator garden: Determine the physical location and conditions . Full sun is the obvious choice, however, pollinator gardens can also grow in part sun/shade. Also important is how wet or dry the area is. A rain garden can be a pollinator garden for wet areas. Prepare the site . Clear the area of existing plant competition and plan how to water young plants. Choose native plants . Native plants and pollinators go hand in hand. Natives flourish without added pesticides or fertilizers which means less maintenance since they are already well adapted to local conditions. Use nectar - and pollen-rich flowers with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Different flowers shapes and colors attract different types of pollinators. To get the most pollinator food per plant, avoid modern hybrids as many of them produce significantly less pollen and nectar to have larger and different colored blossoms. Have a minimum of three plants in bloom early spring through late fall . This ensures food availability for all pollinators as the emerge for the season. Create a planting plan . Place plants based on their mature height, width, bloom time and color of blossoms. Plant in drifts . Groups of three or more flowering plants are easier for pollinators to find than single plants. Avoid landscape fabric and mulch . Placing plants of varying heights close to one another will create a “mat” of plants to block the weeds even better than mulch. Next month I will say more about planning my pollinator garden. Sources: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/pollinators/what-is-a-pollinator.htm https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pollinator_gardens_can_be_effective_educational_tools https://beelab.umn.edu/help-bees/actions-help-bees/plant-bee-flowers/pollinator-garden https://extension.psu.edu/planting-pollinator-friendly-gardens https://bwsr.state.mn.us/pollinator-toolbox Photo Credit: flickr.com (4) & Brenda Scheer (1,2,3)

< Back Learn to Identify Garden Insects – Good and Bad Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener We know that most insects in our garden are beneficial. But when we find insect damage on our beloved flowers, vegetables and fruits, it’s hard not to focus on the damaging insects. A good gardening practice is to keep abreast of the latest research on how to attract good insects and adopt pest management practices to minimize damage from the “bad” insects. By seeking out research-based information on good and bad insects, you can learn about potential damage and a range of control options to make well-informed decisions about managing the pests in your Minnesota garden. Read this article to learn more about good and bad insects and how to tell the difference. Some common pests and how to identify them Leaf Lily Beetle While inspecting my garden in late May, I noticed holes in the Asiatic lily leaves and some red beetles. I confirmed the insect to be a Leaf Lily Beetle, a non-native pest. I learned most of the damage is done by the larva so I inspected the lilies again. As expected, I found muddy brown globs. I cleaned the larva off, removed the beetles and limited further damage by frequent inspection and manual removal of the pest. Leaf Lily Beetle Check out the following articles to learn more about this pest, its lifecycle and control options: Minnesota State Horticulture Society: Scarlet Lily Beetle Infestations Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture (MDA): Lily Leaf Beetle University of Utah: Lily Leaf Beetle Cabbage Worm While working with master gardeners at a local vegetable trial garden, I learned that each year the cabbage is damaged by caterpillars. The first sign of the pest in the garden is a white butterfly with a black spot on each wing. The butterfly and the larva are a match to the imported cabbageworm. Cabbage worm This pest can be difficult to control manually once established and the damage reduces the amount of usable produce. To attempt to control the pest this year, we installed a mesh cover over the cabbage when the small plants were transplanted into the garden. The intent is to minimize damage with early intervention so that the butterflies are not able to lay their eggs. The results for this year are pending but sometimes a new approach is worth trying. Check out the following articles to learn more about common vegetables pests, lifecycles, expected damage and control options from the UMN Extension: Caterpillars on Cole Crops Cropping Calendars for Cruciferous Vegetables, and Pumpkin and Squash under Common insects in vegetable crops Fruit and vegetables crop insects Shrub Rose Pests Three pests attack my shrub roses every year. The damage starts in early May with white spotting on the lower leaves, an indication of sap sucking - Rose Leafhopper . Rose Leafhopper and leaf damage In June I observe green caterpillar-like larvae munching on the leaves - the Rose Sawfly larva (also known as Roseslug ). Leaf damage from Rose Sawfly Adult Rose Sawfly In late June, beetles can be seen destroying the rose blooms - the Japanese Beetle . Japanese Beetle Despite all of this pest activity, the roses can be enjoyed most of the season with some manual control. I squash the leafhoppers early if there is significant damage. I watch for the appearance of the Roseslugs and squash them or drop them into soapy water. This year I also began looking for the sawflies to see if I could disturb them and prevent them from laying their eggs and thus minimize the Roseslug problem. The Japanese beetles are the most destructive and because they are relentless, I knock them into soapy water as frequently as is feasible. The best news is that the pests are mostly gone when the roses bloom a second time in late summer. Check out the following articles to learn more about rose pests, lifecycles and control options: Sawfly and its larvae , Roseslugs are located under Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.(UMN Extension) Rose pests . (UKY, includes Japanese Beetle, Roseslug, Rose Leafhopper and others) What about the good insects? The insects that damage our plants grab our attention but we need to remember that most insects in our gardens are beneficial and play a vital role in the ecosystem. Insects pollinate a wide variety of fruits, nuts, vegetables, and native plants. Insects also decompose plant and animal material, are used in medicine and research and they are an essential food source for many birds, mammals and other insects. An apple exists only when the flower is pollinated. A butterfly exists only when the caterpillar is allowed to mature to adult stage, with essential food sources and the correct host plant. Pollinators Insects that pollinate include wild and domesticated bees, flies, wasps, moths, butterflies and more. Did you know that flies are second to bees in pollination? The syrphid fly appears to be a small bee but is actually a “hover fly” that moves about quickly and feeds on nectar and pollen. I found this pretty little fly hovering and feeding on cranesbill geranium, shrub rose and columbine flowers in my garden. Look for it! Unlike bees and wasps which have two pairs of wings, the syrphid fly has a single pair. It does not sting or bite. Syrphid fly Butterflies are incredibly beautiful and fun to watch, make it your goal to learn about some new butterflies to attract to your garden with nectar and larval host plants for butterflies. Butterfly Gardening . (UMN Dept. of Entomology) Monarch Bumblebees are a joy to watch in addition to the serious pollination work they do. This UMN BeeLab page includes a field guide to identify Minnesota Bumblebees . Bumblebee Predators Some insects are beneficial because they feed on other insects and frequently it is not the adult that provides the most benefit. This is why understanding the insect’s lifecycle and what it looks like in different stages can help us better appreciate their value. Lacewings, in their wingless immature state, eat other insects. Lady beetles are beneficial because they feed on insects, nectar and pollen. Asian lady beetles are a bit larger and are a nuisance if they get in your house, but they are otherwise beneficial because they also feed on soft body pests. Both types have alligator-like larvae, quite different from the domed, hard, round to oval shaped adult beetle. Wasps . There are many types of wasps that help control garden pests. For example, the parasitoid wasp is beneficial because it lays its eggs on pests such as the aphid or imported cabbage worm, to feed on the host. These wasps are tiny so don’t expect to identify them but you may see small eggs or larva on the host. The Syrphid fly is not only a pollinator but also feeds on small insect pests. For more on these and other beneficial insects in Minnesota: UMN extension Beneficial Insects . Tips for successfully identifying good and bad insects In order to know whether you need to take steps to control an insect, you need to successfully identify it. Try this process: Observe Be proactive by inspecting plants and watching for insects when they are expected to appear. Gather Information Take a picture please! This will help you recall details when doing your research What type of insect? Does it appear to be a beetle, butterfly or moth, caterpillar, grub or other? Note size, color, markings, # of wings, etc. Where did you find it? Insect pests tend to be specific to certain plants. Is it on a plant or in the soil? Is there any feeding damage? Sometimes you will have to rely on the damage to do your inquiry when the insect is not present. What time of year is it? Insects emerge at different times of the year, some have annual cycles, others have multiple cycles in one season. Take the information you have gathered and go to reputable sources to identify the insect and how to manage it. Search within the UMN Extension site or another known research-backed site. For a list of Helpful Apps for identifying insects, open the “How to Control Specific Pests” header on UMN Extension Preventing pests in your yard and garden page. Other Resources for assistance: Ask a Master Gardener and Yard and Garden News Anticipate and Plan Accordingly When you’ve learned the lifecycle and the best time to interrupt the lifecycle, you can be more strategic about solving a problem. Keep up the good gardening! We all strive for a beautiful flower garden and healthy fruits and vegetables. So, it is important to identify and control threats from damaging insects early. Try to develop a more observant eye and know when to look; anticipate and plan accordingly. Get to know good insects, learn to attract and protect them! Many resources are available to help you satisfy your curiosity about an insect, or help you solve a problem. But don’t hesitate to ask for help if you get stumped. Additional References on Pollinators Did you know that 70% of native bees nest in the ground: 5 ways to Increase nesting habitat for Native Bees . (Xerces Society) Vegetable Garden Best Management Practices (BPM) for Pollinators including a list of recommended garden plants to support pollinators. An example of a best practice is to plan your garden with flowers, veggies, herbs and fruits intermixed. (UMN) Current status on pollinators and what you can do for them. (MDA) Create pollinator friendly habitat with the Lawns to Legumes program . (The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources) Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1, 3, 7, 8), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 4, 5, 6, 9)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)