< Back Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Mary Barnridge, Master Gardener Intern Consider composting to reduce costs of fertilizer and mulch for your garden, improve the quality of sandy or compacted soil, and save time and money with fewer trips to the store. Composting is an environmentally friendly alternative. ? Do your plants start to yellow as summer wanes? This could be an indication of a nitrogen deficiency in the soil (e.g. fertilizer). Compost provides nourishment to plants throughout the growing season. ? Do you struggle with keeping soil from drying out extensively during hot and dry periods? Compost can be used to retain moisture and encourage plant growth – in both garden plots and patio pots. ? Do you have plants that are struggling to thrive because the soil is too compacted from excessive moisture, or foot traffic, or perhaps it is sandy and drains too quickly? Compost can be used as a soil amendment to enrich the soil and address compaction and drainage issues. Making Your Own Compost - The Basic How-Tos Build the Compost Structure Locate he compost structure taway from your home but close enough to the garden to which it will be applied. Keep it away from drying winds and ensure it has at least partial sunshine each day. There are several materials that can be used to create the compost site: Wire fencing, brick/cinder block, a metal cylinder or wood/wire structure. Layer in the Initial Materials to Begin the Compost Process Build your compost pile in layers. Begin with eight to ten inches of leaves, grass or plant trimmings. Water it to the point of being moist, but not soggy. Sprinkle the pile with one-third to one-half cup of nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area (a 5' x 5' bin). You may choose to add a one-inch layer of soil or completed compost over the fertilizer to increase the number of decomposing microbes in the pile. Repeat these layers until the pile reaches a height of five feet, watering each time you add new layers. If your pile contains large amounts of acidic materials such as pine needles or fruit wastes, you might add lime, but no more than one cup per 25 cubic feet of material. Feed the Compost Site Many organic materials can be used as compost: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Non-woody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds What you shouldn’t include: Do not compost diseased or insect-infested plants and weeds. Do not compost meat, bones, grease, whole eggs and dairy products However, Dakota County accepts many of these items in their food scrap/organics drop off sites. For more information, including sign up and collection locations visit the Dakota County drop off site webpage . Pet litter should not be used in your home compost and is not accepted through the Dakota County program. Dakota County Food Scrap Drop Off Site. Dakota County Food Scrap Bins. Maintenance Turn the pile once or twice a month to help speed decomposition. Water your compost pile periodically to keep it moist but not soggy. You may add a small amount of new material to be composted but if you have a lot of new material, it is better to start a second batch. Your compost pile will be ready in two to four months in the warm season, provided you have watered and turned it regularly. Unmaintained piles may take over a year to decompose sufficiently. When it’s ready to use, your compost pile will be about half its original height, and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Use it or Lose it Use it as mulch in annual or perennial garden or patio pots Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the base of plants. Add more layers over the initial layer throughout growing season. The mulch can also be worked into the soil at the end of the growing season for annual gardens. Use it as a soil amendment For sandy soil, add and incorporate 1 inch of compost in the top 6 inches of soil. For compacted, clay soil, add 2 inches of compost to the top 8 inches of soil. Repeat annually Use it in potting soil One-quarter to one-third of potting mix may be compost. For more information about composting visit this University of Minnesota Extension site . References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Mary Barnidge (2 and 3)

< Back Food for Thought in the Home Landscape Everyone wants a yard that is both beautiful and functional. For anyone wanting to grow food and make their landscapes more productive, there are many ways to incorporate both, outside of the usual raised beds, berry bushes, and fruit trees. Many more plants and plant parts than you might think are edible, and you can create layered designs to maximize density and diversity. Read this article for ideas and resources that you can put to use in your own yard. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern When you think of an edible garden, what comes to mind? You might picture some raised beds filled with annual vegetables, a healthy patch of raspberries or rhubarb, or perhaps a small grove of dwarf fruit trees. Beyond these familiar and delicious friends, there are plenty of lesser-known roots, shoots, fruits and flowers that can be incorporated into your home landscape. The University of Minnesota Extension website provides a long of list fruits and flowers that can be grown in Minnesota and incorporated into your home landscape. Of course, only certain flowers are edible, so you must learn which flowers and which parts of a flower are edible. And make sure that the plants you eat have not been treated with harmful chemicals. Some examples of edible flowers listed by the U of M Extension at the above link are: nasturtiums, calendula, squash flower, borage, anise hyssop, bachelor buttons, beebalm and many more. Coneflower and Anise Hyssop If you are interested in exploring edibles and how they can be incorporated in your garden, visit the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Foodscape . The Foodscape at the Farm at the Arb is a great model of “sustainable landscape design that combines the intentional use of food plants for their edible qualities as well as their ornamental value.” Thankfully, there doesn’t always have to be a tradeoff between a yard that looks good and one that tastes good. Foodscape at the UMN Landscape Arboretum Many of us are limited on space for our gardens. In relatively small urban and suburban lots, our eyes can easily become bigger than our yards when it comes to the wide variety of tasty things we could grow. If so, you should become familiar with the food forest approach. A food forest is made up of a variety of plants that mimic growth patterns found in nature. A food forest typically includes larger food-producing trees, small trees and shrubs, and a floor of annuals, perennial, root and ground cover crops and vines. Food forest projects are often group partnerships which make use of larger growing areas. However, you don’t need room for a full “forest” to take advantage of planting in layers. Making full use of the canopy, understory, and floor is a great way to maximize diversity and yields in your home garden. There are also culinary and medicinal uses for many plants that were not intentionally cultivated. Dandelions are a well-known example; others such as plantain , purslane , and even the dreaded creeping bellflower provide some benefits. Learn more about what to look for at this U of M Extension article on weeds so that the next time you are out weeding, consider if there might be a few things you’d like to try in your next salad! What’s more, if you happen to have a taste for these plants, you can harvest to your heart’s content, knowing that you’re helping to strengthen your local ecosystem in the process. Inspiration abounds for expanding your palate and introducing some exciting new elements to your existing panoply of plants. Check out a few of these other Extension resources for more ideas and information: “Edible Gardens for People and Pollinators” - University of Minnesota Extension “The Incredible Edible Landscape” - Iowa State University Extension “Edible Perennials” - University of Illinois Extension “Foraging for Backyard Edibles” - North Carolina State Extension So, take advantage of this great research and put it to use in creating an attractive and edible garden in your yard. Reference: extension.umn.edu A home for homegrown food at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Ten Master Gardener volunteers were part of the team that built The Foodscape surrounding the new Burton and Virginia Myers Education Center. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Our State Fruit: Honeycrisp Apple From mysterious beginnings, to a world-famous apple breeding program at the University of Minnesota, thanks to the research and writing skills of a 4th grade class, the “Honeycrisp” apple became a Minnesota state symbol. Read this article to learn more about the interesting journey of this delicious fruit. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The road to becoming a state symbol begins with a motivated elementary classroom more often than not. In 2005, at Andersen Elementary School in Bayport, Minnesota, 4th grade teacher Laurel Avery made her students’ education come to life when she directed her class to write a persuasive letter. After learning that another 4th grade class had persuaded the state legislature to proclaim the monarch butterfly the Minnesota state insect several years earlier, Ms. Avery’s class set about researching the perfect candidate for the Minnesota state fruit. Since the University of Minnesota has a world- renowned apple breeding program, the 4th graders came up with an obvious choice: a true Minnesota state fruit, an apple that was created right here in Minnesota and became a favorite around the world; the award-winning “Honeycrisp” apple. While the “Honeycrisp” was “born” in Minnesota, its beginnings were somewhat of a mystery until very recently. For decades, the parentage of the “Honeycrisp” was mistakenly assumed to be the “Macoun” and “Honeygold” apples. This was due to a recordkeeping error in the 1970’s. Imagine thousands of research records dating back to the late 1800’s, the beginning of the University’s apple breeding program. The paper records were haphazardly stored in a fireproof vault. So, it wasn’t surprising that an error had been made in determining the apple’s lineage. Jim Luby, a professor in the Department of Horticultural Sciences, who along with Senior Research Fellow David Bedford, leads the University of Minnesota apple breeding program, tasked librarians and graduate student Nick Howard to sort all of the records and make sense of it all. As they tackled the monumental task, Nick Howard dug even deeper by cross-referencing the data with DNA tests. They ultimately concluded that “Honeycrisp” is the child of “Keepsake” and an unreleased apple “MN1627.” Like humans researching their genealogy, apple DNA testing along with the newly organized handwritten records allowed the apple breeders to trace the “Honeycrisp’s” ancestry all the way back to Europe. James Luby, left, and David Bedford Becoming a world-famous apple doesn’t happen overnight. The “Honeycrisp” was developed in 1960, patented in 1988, and not released until 1991. Here is the typical process: Year 1: Study various cultivars to choose parents with desired characteristics. Hand pollinate the flowers, germinate the seeds, plant the new trees in a greenhouse, and do DNA testing on a leaf from each plant that was grown to see which traits were passed on. Years 2-5: Graft successful matches onto dwarfing rootstocks and allow those trees to grow. First fruit appears at around Year 5. Fruit from every tree is tasted with about only 1 out of every 200 passing the taste test. The rest of the trees are discarded. Years 5-15: The trees that make it to this round of evaluation are cloned by budding/grafting onto common rootstock. For the next 10 to 15 years, these trees are evaluated by looking at 25 desirable characteristics, like texture, flavor, storage ability, disease resistance, etc. Like the previous round, most trees that get to this round will be discarded. Years 15-20: Trees that do make it to this round of evaluations are planted across Minnesota and the U.S. in diverse settings. Researchers see how they perform and if the growers have any interest in the apple. Years 20-25: Commercialization begins with naming, licensing, and distribution to growers to propagate the trees. Years 25-30: About 5 years after commercial growers propagate the trees, consumers can finally have access to the apple. The trees that were the result of the cross of “Keepsake” and “MN1627” that made it through all the rounds of evaluation were a huge success. The apple is grown around the world, and is known as “Honeycrunch” in Europe. The “Honeycrisp” has been described as explosively crisp and juicy. It can last at least 7 months if it is refrigerated. Its harvest season lasts from about September 15 to October 5. And, it is hardy all the way to zone 4. Since the “Honeycrisp” was released over 30 years ago, the next generation of apples with “Honeycrisp” as a “parent” have been released, including “First Kiss” and “Triumph.” Time will tell if they are as well liked as “Honeycrisp.” Thank you to Ms. Avery’s class, who made an excellent choice for their recommendation to the state legislature. Their persuasive writing skills clearly made an impact on their representatives who took their case to the capitol. And though they didn’t see success the first year, the following year as 5th graders, their letters and an apple song they wrote and sang to the tune of the Minnesota rouser convinced the state legislators to adopt the “Honeycrisp” as a fitting symbol of our state. Resources for this article: https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/fruit.pdf https://mnhardy.umn.edu/honeycrisp https://license.umn.edu/product/honeycrisp-apples---cold-hardy-minnesota-apple https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/apple-day-scientific-way https://www.continuum.umn.edu/2021/10/secrets-of-the-vault/ https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples https://www.duluthnewstribune.com/lifestyle/state-symbols-are-part-of-what-makes-minnesota-home https://andersen.stillwaterschools.org/our-school/andersen-school-supply-list https://horticulture.umn.edu/news/nicholas-howard-honeycrisp-family-tree https://www.ereferencedesk.com/resources/state-fruit/minnesota.html Photo credits: University of Minnesota Libraries (1), University of Minnesota College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences (2, 3), Anderson Elementary Stillwater Schools (4)

Join Us - Become a Master Gardener Volunteer If you have a love of gardening, a desire for learning and are willing to share your knowledge with others, consider becoming a University of Minnesota Master Gardener in Dakota County. Apply Applications for new Master Gardeners are accepted annually August 1 to Oct 1. You can find the online application form on the Become a Master Gardener page. Selection You will be asked to participate in an interview with our selection team and complete a volunteer background check. We may not be able to select all applicants. Internship Those selected begin a year as a University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener Intern. Interns must complete the Extension Master Gardener Core Course. The course is self-paced including weekly webinars and section quizzes. Instructors are University of Minnesota Extension educators and faculty. Topics include soils, entomology, gardening resources, diagnostics, trees, herbaceous plants, lawn care, plant pathology, and more. The Extension Master Gardener calendar year is January 1 to December 31. During the first year, interns must complete 50 hours of approved volunteer work on educational projects, often with other active Master Gardeners. Through the year interns report their volunteer hours online in the Extension Master Gardener database. All hours must be reported by December 31. Upon successful completion of the internship year, the intern becomes a certified Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer, receiving a certificate and official badge. For additional details and requirements review Steps to Becoming a Master Gardener . Remaining Certified Once certified, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers must volunteer a minimum of 25 hours and receive at least 5 hours of approved continuing education each year in order to maintain their certified, active Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer status. If combining your passion for people and plants sounds appealing, come grow with us! Remember, a formal education in horticulture isn’t necessary. We provide the training and resources to help you teach others. Apply Today

< Back Aromatic Aster: That Which We Call an Aster by Any Other Name Would Smell as Sweet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As summer winds down and our garden colors turn to reds and oranges, the blue and yellow of Aromatic Aster is a lovely pleasure. But its good looks aren’t even the best reason to grow Aromatic Aster. Read this article to learn more about why this midwestern native should have a place in your garden. Apologies to The Bard, but Symphyotrichum oblongifolium is known by several appellations including Oblong-Leafed Aster and Aster oblongifolius . Yet by any of these names it remains a fragrant, persistent, cheerful autumnal companion of our Midwestern prairies. You will find aromatic aster in dry, gravelly or rocky prairies, glades and savannas. When crushed, the foliage is pleasantly aromatic. It is relatively easy to grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. Once established, it usually is a quite hardy native perennial and will frequently self-seed. Being a good grower, it can crowd out less vigorous perennials. If that seems to be happening, you can trim it back through midsummer and still see a nice blooming in the fall when it produces abundant flowers in many shades of purple. Like other members of the Asteraceae family, blooming season is usually from late-August through early-November, although an early hard frost can end the show prematurely. Aromatic aster tends to grow in mounds of 24 to 30 inches in height. Thus, it functions well as a traditional flower border or an informal hedge, putting on a dazzling show in the late fall. It is a favorite of pollinators and creates a valuable fall source of nectar for many species, especially last-of-the-season butterflies. It is hardy in Zones 3 through 8. Thus, most of Minnesota provides a suitable climate. Aromatic aster is pretty much disease resistant although occasionally powdery mildew or lace bugs may be an issue. You may have to stake some of the plants in the fall as their abundant flower heads may otherwise weigh the plant down. Most of the time, however, aromatic aster does wonderfully well if left to its own devices. Photo Credit: Jason Grand www.inaturalist.org

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Raccoon Grape: Ampelopsis cordata A Tough Customer in the Beds Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month marks the beginning of a series by Master Gardener Jim Lakin on native vines. First up is the Raccoon Grapevine (Ampelopsis cordata). Raccoon Grapevine is quite a vigorous vine plant which, if managed well, will reward the grower with a spectacular display. Read this article to learn more about this hardy vine. You’ve probably never run into Raccoon Grape in any landscape manual. That’s because it’s a tough customer and will take over everything in its path. It puts out runners rambunctiously and self-seeds abundantly in disturbed soils (like a cultivated garden bed). Planted in harsh sites with poop, drought-prone soils it can spread to spectacular effect; however, I have had some in a potentilla bed next to the house. I let it spread up the banister, creating a lovely effect. Two or three times a season, however, I have to get into the bed itself and tear out the vine to give the potentilla a chance. It requires a little effort but the effect is spectacular. diagram of grape leaf and berry Now that you have been warned, let’s talk about the distribution and growth characteristics of this fellow. Raccoon Grape is common across the Midwest along the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. You’ll find it in hedgerows and disturbed soils all over lower Minnesota. It is said to be hardy through Zone 5, although it has done very well in our gardens in the south suburban Twin Cities. The vine is tolerant of a wide variety of soils and will grow vigorously from seed. Indeed, its strong point is its ability to go “where no plant has gone before”. Raccoon Grape leaf The flowers of Raccoon Grape are unremarkable but visited by a variety of small insect pollinators. The grapes are inedible but appear in early fall in a wide range of colors, ripening from a fuchsia pink to aqua and finally navy blue. They are big hits with songbirds and, you guessed it, raccoons. The leaves turn a sunny yellow in the fall. Raccoon Grape berry So, if you are careful in placement and not afraid of curbing the vigor of Racoon Grape, this can be a hardy, strategic addition to difficult spots as well as a beautiful accent to arbors or fences. Photo Credits: Missouri Department of Education; https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/raccoon-grape (1), www.missouriplants.com (2), Kansas Native Plants; https://kansasnativeplants.com/guide/plant_detail.php?plnt_id=153 (3)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)

< Back Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels sprouts need a northern garden environment to thrive. Cool autumn air and frost intensifies the sugars in the sprouts, enhancing their flavor. This characteristic means that brussels sprouts are often the last plants standing in a Minnesota garden. Read on to learn more about Brussels sprouts and discover the best way to care for sprouts from late summer through harvest. Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels Sprout Heritage Brussels sprouts are part of the Brassica oleracea family (generally called “mustards”) that also includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and collard greens. They are believed to be descended from wild Mediterranean kale grown in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts, as the little baby cabbage vegetable we know today, were developed in the vicinity of Brussels, Belgium in the 13th century, becoming popular there in the 16th century. It took another two centuries for European settlers to introduce Brussels sprouts to North America in the 18th century and another couple of centuries to establish Brussels sprouts as a viable large-scale commercial crop in California in the 1900s. Today, the U.S. produces about 70 million pounds of Brussels sprouts annually. Brussels sprouts have been cultivated and improved in the last century. Sprouts as we know them today have been bred to have higher sugar content and lower glucosinolates (i.e. sulfur smell, bitterness), making them a more appealing vegetable for the American palate. Brussels sprouts are now often found in high-end restaurants served as an appetizer, in salads or as a side dish. Late Season Care Brussels sprouts may remain in the garden through October and possibly into early December in a mild winter year. Brussels sprouts will readily survive in temperatures as low as 20 degrees but will die out when temperatures drop to 10 degrees or lower. In fact, Brussels sprouts need one or two frosty mornings before harvest to reduce any bitter flavors and concentrate the sugars in the sprouts. To keep your Brussels sprouts healthy during the late season, follow these gardening tips: Stop Fertilizing. Do not fertilize Brussels sprouts after the sprouts have started to grow in mid-summer. You will see the sprouts growing on the stalk of the plant next to the leaf stems. Mulch. Add a fresh layer of mulch around the plants to keep the ground temperature and moisture more uniform. Leave about a 3” ring of clear ground around the stalks to reduce the chance of rot. Water. Continue to water the Brussels sprouts plants until harvest. Generally, Brussels sprouts need about an inch of water per week. However, the ground may retain water longer during cool weather so it is good to check if water is needed before watering. If the top one to three inches are dry when you poke your finger into the soil, then add water. Water around the base of the plant and avoid watering the leaves which could encourage disease. Stake. Healthy Brussels sprouts will continue to grow taller and develop more sprouts along the newer stalks throughout the long growing season. Therefore, consider staking the plants in the autumn. Staking will help support the weight of the growing sprouts. Staking will also promote air flow which can reduce the chances of disease. Trim. Commercial farmers trim leaves from Brussels sprout plants to concentrate the growth into the sprouts. While this action is not necessary for the home gardener, trimming leaves will improve airflow and may encourage sprout growth. Start by trimming the bottom 6-8 leaves and any yellowing leaves. An additional 2-3 lower leaves may be trimmed each week to allow room for the sprouts that intersect those leaf stems to grow. Be sure to keep the largest and healthiest leaves at the top of the plant since they are needed to feed the plant. Top Off. Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the stalk upwards – i.e. the sprouts at the bottom will be larger than the sprouts at the top of the plant. To encourage the upper sprouts to develop faster, you can cut the off the top 2” to 5” of the main stalk. Top off Brussels sprouts 20 to 45 days prior to final harvest (usually end of August or mid-September in Minnesota). Wrap. If you want to keep Brussels sprouts happy through a few freeze/thaw cycles, you could build a burlap-wrapped structure around the plants. This protection may help when night temperatures dip into the 20s, but the structure will not keep the plants alive during a longer stretch of harsher winter weather. Observe. Brussels sprouts will send you signals if they are not healthy. The plants may wilt or turn yellow during an autumn heat wave. Leaves may yellow and the plants may bolt if the plants are overwatered. Alternatively, brown spots and edges may develop on the leaves or sprouts if the plants are too cold. The newest growth will usually show signs of stress first. Be prepared to adjust your care and possibly your harvest time to accommodate the plants’ conditions. Harvesting and Storage Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the sprouts are solid, bright green, 1-2 inches in diameter and tightly wrapped. Most of the leaves should still be green; do not wait until the leaves have turned yellow or are dying. In addition, the plants will be 2-3 feet tall and approximately 80-100 days old depending on the variety (check the seed package). Wait to harvest until after one or more light frosts which will improve the flavor of the Brussels sprouts. Generally, Brussels sprouts are harvested mid-September to late October in Minnesota. A healthy Brussels sprout plant will yield between 60 and 100 sprouts. Partial Harvest. Brussels sprouts start losing their flavor within a day or two of being picked. You can retain the fresh flavor of the Brussels sprouts over a longer period by picking only some of the sprouts while maintaining the plants in the garden. The plants will continue to grow and produce more sprouts on the new growth until the plants are topped off. Harvest the sprouts near the bottom of the plant first. To pick a sprout, hold the sprout where it meets the stalk and quickly twist the sprout to snap it off. Alternatively, you can cut the sprout off the stalk with a knife. Remove the leaves left on the stalk near the sprouts you picked. Dispose of any yellow, brown or squishy sprouts and leaves. Dust off the sprouts but do not wash the sprouts before storing. Store the sprouts in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator where sprouts should last for a week or more. Alternatively, sprouts may be blanched and frozen for up to a year. Complete Harvest. Harvest the entire Brussels sprouts plant when the temperature drops below 25 degrees on a regular basis. To harvest, remove all remaining leaves and then cut the entire stalk one inch above the soil line. Leave the healthy sprouts on the stalk but remove any sprouts that are discolored or show signs of rot. Hang or stack the stalks in a cold storage area (e.g. garage, cellar or refrigerator). A harvested stalk can be stored for 3 to 5 weeks at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, 32o is the temperature that keeps sprouts the freshest for the longest in storage or the garden. Avoid storing Brussels sprouts with apples, pears, or other fruits which will increase the sprouts’ bitter flavors. After the Brussels sprout harvest is complete, it is best to remove the entire plant from the garden. The plants may be composted or burned. Remember to rotate crops in next year’s garden; a 3-4 year rotation is recommended for all members of the Brassica oleracea family. Then, pull out one of your favorite Brussels sprouts recipes and enjoy! If you want to learn more about growing Brussels sprouts, please visit: https:/ extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts#direct-seeding-229361 http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-brussels-sprouts-home-garden http://extension.illinois.edu/gardening/brussels-sprouts http://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/brusselsprout2011.pdf http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-brussels#:~:text=The%20precursors%20to%20modern%20Brussels,crop%20in%20the%2016th%20century . Photo credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (2)

< Back The Short-lived Beauty of Blooming Cactus Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Various cacti can provide gardening pleasure in Minnesota both outside in the summer and inside during the cold weather. There are thousands of varieties of cacti, many of which are different and exotic, in other words, pretty cool. But there are some tricks to growing cacti successfully. Here are some tips on growing healthy cacti and getting them to re-bloom. A long time ago, I thought growing cactus would be a piece of cake. Just set the little cactus I’d picked up at Home Depot on the window sill, ignore it for six months and then give it a little water. I thought I would be extravagantly rewarded for all my effort. NOT! Within a month the cactus had shriveled up and died. I did some research, mostly to convince myself that it really wasn’t all my fault it had died, but I found out it was. Short and sweet, here is what I’ve learned about growing cactus over the years. First, they need a growing medium that is 60% sand/small gravel and 40% cactus potting soil. Second, it is best to grow them in a traditional, non-glazed clay pot with a clay saucer underneath the hole in the bottom of the pot. This allows them to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Third, they should be watered once a week, not flooded, but enough to get the soil thoroughly wet. Don’t water them if they are not all the way dry. Fourth, they need light. In the winter my cacti (all 52 of them) are in my house in front of south and west facing windows. They go semi dormant in the cool basement and only need ¼ cup of water every two weeks. This allows them to rest. In the spring, I bring them upstairs, where there is more light, and give them a little cactus fertilizer (half the recommended dose) with every other watering. When outdoor day time temperatures are above 65 degrees and all chance of frost is past, I move them all outdoors. If possible, a week in a shaded area is a good transition before placing them in full sun. Because I have so many, they don’t all get treated to shade before being placed in the full sun, I simply don’t have the space. A few have gotten sunburned spots on them, but all have survived. It doesn’t matter if they get poured on by a summer thunderstorm. They seem to love the extra moisture, as long as they are in pots that drain and can dry out. I occasionally fertilize them during the summer, but not too often. It’s important to place them out of harm’s way, where they won’t get blown over, or bumped by passersby. In June and July, you may be rewarded by these stunning blooms. They only last 24 hours, but they are simply breath taking. This year, we had one cactus that bloomed in both June and July (usually they only bloom once a year). Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus also enjoy being outside in the summertime. Make sure they aren’t in full sun, they definitely like it a little shady. We have one large cactus that I call a dragon’s head cactus because it’s flowers really look like a dragon head with its mouth wide open. Every summer I’ve put it outside, it gets tiny brown spots all over it. I bring it in before the first frost and it rewards me with blooms in January. The brown spots fade once it’s been in the house for a month or so. I’m thinking it doesn’t like being outdoors, even in the shade. But I like the extra space I have in the house during the summer once all 52 cactuses have been moved to their outdoor summer homes! I don’t know the scientific names for all our cactuses, many seem to have been mislabeled, simple called “Euphorbia” or my favorite, “cactus”. We just enjoy them, after all a cactus by any other name will still look stunning. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)

< Back Hello Spring! Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener April is the month when we can finally spend time out of doors, breathing fresh, cool air and watching plants and trees “green up.” April is also the month to get your garden in gear for the season. But do so slowly. Starting too early can compact the soil and disturb pollinators that may still be asleep in the garden. This article will review steps you should be taking now in your flower or vegetable gardens to set the stage for a successful growing season. April is the month when we can finally spend time out of doors, breathing fresh, cool air and watching plants and trees “green up.” April is also the month to get your garden in gear for the season. But do so slowly. Starting too early can compact the soil and disturb pollinators that may still be asleep in the garden. This article will review steps you should be taking now in your flower or vegetable gardens to set the stage for a successful growing season. Garden Clean Up The Minnesota garden in early spring is not impressive looking. Bunches of dead plant stalks, soggy leaves, and lots of brown. The temptation is to start cutting down the brown to make room for green growth as soon as the snow melts. But don’t ! During the winter, our dead, brown yards are actually playing host to dozens of pollinating insects. As longer days arrive, they emerge from their winter homes – underneath leaves, in hollow plant stems, and underground – and begin their critically important work for our food chain. When can you start cleaning up the mess? Most insects will not emerge until temperatures are consistently about 50 degrees. In Minnesota, this could be mid to late April or even early May. Of course, you may need to move some winter debris, for example, if leaves are smothering your grass. But be selective and let old plants and leaves rest for a while longer. Lawn Care Late spring and early fall are good times to fix bare patches in lawns. Cooler temperatures are ideal for germinating new lawn seed. Temperatures between 55-65 degrees are ideal for new lawn growth. Pre-emergent applications to control crabgrass or weed seed germination should be done mid-April to mid-May. Do not apply a pre-emergent to newly seeded lawns or gardens (pre-emergent prevents seeds from germinating). Hold off on fertilizing lawns until May when lawn growth begins to take off. Perennials Cut back any perennials that you left standing last fall. It is also the time to divide your established perennials as they begin to emerge from the ground. For many perennials, division helps the plant perform better because there is more space for roots to grow and absorb nutrients and water. (Hint: if you see a hole in the center of your hosta, it wants to be divided!) Plant division is also a cost-free way to expand your garden. Check out https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials for more information about how to divide perennials. Soil Testing Spring is the time to prepare your garden soil. Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn and garden. Spring is also a good time get your soil tested. Soil testing is available through the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory . The basic soil test will provide information on the soil texture, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime levels in your soil. With that information, you will know the specific composition of fertilizer that will benefit your garden. It will also provide you with information that will help you determine the types of plants that will do best in your garden. Soil testing is easy! You will fill out a form that asks what the area will be used for and the results will then provide recommendations specific to that use. A soil sample of two to three cups of soil can be mailed or brought to the Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota. The sample should be collected by walking in a zig zag pattern through the space and placed in a clean tub or plastic bag. Separate samples should be submitted for separate areas of your yard. Go to this website for specific instructions about how to submit a soil sample and get the latest fees. Preparing the Soil Applying compost to your soil may improve it and help plant growth. Incorporating compost into light, sandy soil helps it hold both moisture and nutrients while adding it to heavy soil improves drainage. If you haven’t applied compost in the fall - and depending on the results of your soil test - adding 2-3 inches of compost and working it into your soil about two weeks before planting may be helpful. Spring is the time to till your soil if that is your practice. Tilling the soil helps to warm it and removes existing weeds. But tilling also stimulates germination of new weeds which should be promptly removed as they emerge. Note that tilling may not be necessary. Take a look at this article for alternatives to tilling. If you do till, it should not be done when the soil is too wet because it may become compacted when it dries. If your soil sticks to a shovel and holds a ball, it is too wet to till. If you are going to add compost or other amendments to the soil, do so before tilling. Planting If you started seeds indoors this winter, you can start bringing seedlings outside during the warmer days of mid to late April (depending on the plant or vegetable) and begin acclimating them to their environment. Remember to watch the weather when hardening off seedlings as extreme wind, sun exposure and cold temperatures can set them back. Spring blooming annuals like pansies and violas can tolerate cooler temperatures adding a pop of color to your outdoor space while we wait for warmer temperatures to arrive. Some cool-season vegetables can be planted outside in mid to late April. The soil must be thawed and easily workable before you plant. Check the soil temperature to determine when cool weather vegetables can be planted. Here are some examples of appropriate soil temperatures for some vegetables: 40 degrees – arugula, kale, lettuce, bok choi, peas, spinach, radishes, radicchio 60 degrees – beans, beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, carrots 70 degrees – tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, squash, corn melons Cleaning Garden Tools Disease from an infected plant may be spread to a healthy one by using dirty garden tools. Proper cleaning of your tools can reduce the spread of disease. If you haven’t cleaned your tools in the fall, do so in the spring. You should also clean your tools when you have used them on plants that may be infected with a disease. Cleaners such as Lysol All-Purpose Cleaner, a bleach solution and alcohol may be effective cleaners. However, refer to the following article regarding the proper methods to use with these cleaners. The last time you were able to work in the garden, you were raking leaves, cutting down plants, putting garden ornaments away and covering patio furniture. Take pleasure in doing the reverse and watching your garden come alive again. References: Mississippi Watershed Management Organization; www.mwmo.org University of Minnesota Yard and Garden , Spring Yard and Garden Preparation https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/clean-and-disinfect-gardening-tools Photo Credit: Mississippi Watershed Management Organization (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,4,5), Minnesota State Horticultural Society (3)