< Back Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) Jim Lakin, MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Not every evergreen looks like it’s out of a Rudolph’s Christmas special. Jack Pine is one of them. But this native pine tree has many other virtues to consider if you are looking to add evergreens to your landscape. It is adaptable to good and poor soils, sun or shade and an attractive host to wildlife. Read this article to learn more about this interesting evergreen. Not every evergreen looks like it’s out of a Rudolph’s Christmas special. Jack Pine is one of them. It tends to be short and bushy, especially in poor soils; not the classic Holiday Tree. Yet in spite of that, it has many virtues for the landscaper. Its bushiness makes it an excellent windbreak or privacy screen, especially if you are planting it in difficult soils or part shade. In rich soil, however it can achieve 30 to 50 feet in height, spreading 20 to 30 feet in width. Jack Pine provides an excellent habitat for wildlife, producing abundant cones and providing good cover in winter. If you are naturalizing a large plot, this tree is a good choice. Jack Pine grows across the northern forests of North America, penetrating to Central Minnesota, although some strains will do well even further south. Indeed, the tree will grow from zone 2 through 6. It is, however, sensitive to pine wilt in these more southern locations. Virginia Pine, a close relative, is a better choice in the Southern Midwest. Since Jack Pine does grow well in poor soils, it is often a pioneer plant in burned off or disturbed areas. If you have access to a pure Jack Pine forest, blueberries frequently proliferate in the understory. Making for great foraging! Jack Pine is easy to grow from seed, although sometimes the cones have to be burned to force seed release. The tree requires full sun although it will thrive in relatively poor soils. With two short needles per bundle, it produces a lovely fine texture. In the winter, needles tend to turn a golden green, forming a nice contrast to the true green needles of other evergreens. In environments with cold winters, Jack Pine is relatively maintenance free. Further south, as noted, some difficulties can occur. Root rot and certain rusts are potential problems. So, for you folks Up North, this one’s for you! Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1-2)

< Back Lettuce, the crunchy cold-loving crop! Jess Nguyen, Master Gardener Intern What leafy vegetable could be a more fitting staple of summer than the humble lettuce, which makes up the backbone of a refreshing salad and adds a fresh crunch to any picnic sandwich? Cultivation of lettuce dates back to the ancient Egyptians, who used the plant as an important food crop and seed oil source. Today, there are hundreds of varieties of lettuce grown across the globe. Keep reading to find out how you can grow this quick-growing crop in your own garden. What leafy vegetable could be a more fitting staple of summer than the humble lettuce, which makes up the backbone of a refreshing salad and adds a fresh crunch to any picnic sandwich? Lettuce ( Lactuca sativa ) is an annual cool-season crop that grows well in the spring and fall. Lettuce is a fantastic candidate for succession planting in your garden, as your lettuce harvest will be ready once the summer starts to warm up and can then be replaced by heat-loving plants. Lactuca sativa has hundreds of varieties (wow!) that can be categorized into different types. Some commonly-grown categories are as follows: Non-heading lettuce, which includes loose-leaf lettuce varieties; Soft-headed lettuce, which includes varieties such as butterhead lettuce; Ruffled-headed lettuce, which includes French crisp/summer crisp/Batavia lettuce; Tall and compact head lettuce such as Romaine lettuce; Dense, solid head lettuce, which includes iceberg lettuce. For beginner gardeners, loose-leaf lettuce tends to be the easiest type of lettuce to grow! Lettuce seeds are very small and require loose, well-draining, and well-tilled/non-clumpy soil to effectively germinate. Adding compost to your soil before sowing lettuce seeds will help the lettuce to produce large and well-shaped heads. Lettuce prefers cooler temperatures; a soil temperature range between 45°F and 65°F (7°C and 18°C) is ideal. Sow lettuce seeds on the surface of the soil, 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. When choosing a spot to grow lettuce, pick an area that gets five to six hours of sunlight. In hotter temperatures, lettuce benefits from an area that gets shade in the afternoon. An easy method to control the quality of your starting soil and the growing environment would be to start lettuce plants indoors. You can start seeds when you would otherwise not be able to: when the temperature is still too cold in spring to plant and when the temperature is too hot in the summer for lettuce to thrive! Sow seeds about four weeks before you intend to transplant them. Thin seedlings to encourage the largest plants to thrive. Harden your seedlings before transplanting. In the spring, transplant lettuce about a week after the last frost, when freezing temperatures no longer persist. In the fall, transplant lettuce about two months before the first frost date. For direct sowing, sow seeds in the spring as soon as the soil is workable; this should be two to four weeks before your last frost. For fall harvest, sow lettuce seeds about three months before the first frost date, which for Minnesota tends to occur around late August. Soil in late summer can be cooled to suitable temperatures by covering with damp hay to shield the soil from the sun before planting. Rows of lettuce should be 18 to 30 inches apart. Thin seedlings to the appropriate spacing based on the variety that you’ve planted. For example, most loose-leaf varieties recommend seedlings spaced four inches apart, while Romaine lettuce should be planted eight inches apart. Lettuce has very shallow roots, so frequent watering is important for growth. Soil should remain moist but not be overly-wet, which can lead to disease. Thankfully, it is easy to see when your lettuce needs water–look for the obvious signs of wilting that tell you to water the leaves to cool down your lettuce plants. Some common pests for lettuce plants include cutworms, which can cut seedlings and lettuce plants off at the soil line, causing seedlings to die and growing plants to wilt. Cutworms should be hand-picked off of the plants, and collars that extend two inches into the soil surrounding the plants can help deter the worms from further damage. Slugs, which cause holes in lettuce leaves, should also be removed from the plants by hand. Aphids are a pest that can stunt the growth of the lettuce causing yellowed and misshapen leaves and can also cause disease. Remove aphids by blasting them with a water spray, or by introducing biological controls such as ladybugs into your garden. One common problem when growing lettuce is bolting, which is caused when lettuce plants grow in temperatures that are consistently above 75°F. Bolting is when lettuce plants produce a central stalk to flower, which causes the leaves of the lettuce plants to become very bitter and unsuitable for eating. Long days and intense sunlight can also cause bolting. Therefore, for most areas in Minnesota, the months of June, July, and August have conditions that are too hot to grow lettuce effectively. Use these months for heat-loving plants instead! Harvest lettuce when the leaves are full-sized but still young, as mature leaves tend to go bitter. In the spring, leaves will have the best flavor before the weather becomes hot and dry. In the fall when cooler temperatures benefit lettuce, beware of prolonged freezes, which can damage your harvest! You can harvest lettuce by removing outer leaves (which can also be done as the plant is still growing) or by cutting the plant at or slightly above the soil line. Store your lettuce in a loose plastic bag in the refrigerator. When you are ready to use your lettuce, rinse the lettuce thoroughly in cool water, then dry the leaves using a salad spinner or a towel. Wilted lettuce can be revived by a soak in an ice-water bath to maintain crispy, crunchy leaves all summer long. For more information about growing lettuce, see this article by the University of Minnesota’s Marissa Schuh and Jill MacKenzie. Did you know that you can grow lettuce even during the coldest winters, using indoor hydroponics systems? Learn more about hydroponic lettuce in this article by the University of Minnesota’s Natalie Hoidal, Amanda Reardon, Leah Worth, and Mary Rogers. Links Used “Growing lettuce, endive and radicchio in home gardens” https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-lettuce-endive-and-radicchio “Small-scale hydroponics” https://extension.umn.edu/how/small-scale-hydroponics#lighting-2644462 Photo credits: Wikimedia https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/Red_leaf_lettuce_J1.JPG (1), pxhere https://c.pxhere.com/photos/c6/a2/lettuce_vegetables_food_eat_vitamins-1018166.jpg!d (2), flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/joi/506693397 (3)

< Back Canada Anemone, A Hardy Native Groundcover James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Looking for a low maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover? Consider the native Canada Anemone. If you have a difficult slope that never grows grass, a clay or sandy patch that defies seeding with bluegrass or fescue, consider the Canada anemone. Anemone canadensis is otherwise known as meadow anemone, crowfoot or round leaf anemone. It’s a tough guy, found native throughout the Upper Midwest, most commonly on river banks, flood plains or low moist meadows. It provides an excellent groundcover in medium to moist soils. Although it will self-seed, it spreads primarily by rhizomes. This it does rapidly and will form good coverage in two growing seasons with proper conditions. As it is a vigorous grower, it can muscle out other low growing plants unless managed. If you need to contain this anemone, garden edging that goes 6 to 8 inches into the ground should do the trick. Once established, its attractive bright green foliage is graced with lovely white flowers in May, June and early July. The plant’s height usually is less than one foot and it can be mowed lower. It does well in full sun to partial shade. It seems that the cooler the environment, the more sun it will tolerate. Canada anemone settles in nicely in a variety of clay, sand or loam soils. It is hardy to Zone 3 through 6 to 7 although it prefers the cooler, more northern climes. Drier soils and hotter temperatures further south than central Illinois can be a problem. The plant’s name derives from Greek mythology. The nymph Anemone, like the plant, was quite a looker. She attracted the devoted attentions of the God of the West Wind, Zephyr. Unfortunately for all concerned, Zephyr was married to Chloris or in Roman nomenclature, Flora the goddess of flowers and springtime. Needless to say, Flora was miffed at Zephyr’s philandering. She terminated the relationship by turning Anemone into the eponymous flower. Ancient Greece being the strongly patriarchal society that it was, legend is silent as to how Zephyr fared. Like Zephyr, you would be well advised to exercise circumspection in your choices. In selecting ground covers most nurseries offer a variety of aggressive Asian or European imports, commonly Vinca minor or periwinkle. Vinca like so many other non-natives can escape cultivation and invade natural areas. Although Canada anemone is also a hardy grower it strikes a balance in the wild and coexists with other native species in a balanced ecology. Another significant benefit of planting a native such as Anemone canadensis rather than an import is Anemone’s contribution to pollinators. The flowers offer both abundant nectar and nutrient-rich pollen. Vinca , in contrast provides little attraction to native pollinators. For a low-maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover you could do well to consider the native Canada anemone. Photo credits: US Forest Service (1, 2)

< Back Butternut Squash – The Best Flavor of All Winter Squash? December marks the beginning of winter – the time of year when winter squash seems like just the right vegetable to enjoy. Butternut squash is often described as having the best flavor of all winter squash. After you enjoy eating butternut squash this winter, you will want to grow some of your own next spring. Read on to learn how to grow butternut squash successfully. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener How to Grow Butternut squash Soil is the first consideration when growing vegetables. It is always a good idea to start with having your soil tested. The University of Minnesota has a testing service than can be accessed here . For best yield and quality, the soil pH range for vine crops is between 6.0 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. Raised beds are recommended as they ensure good drainage. You can seed vine crops directly into the garden, but they need warm soils of about 65°tested at 2” down. Follow directions on the butternut squash seed package for seed depth and row spacing. To start your butternut squash inside, plant seeds in pots or cells at least two inches wide and deep. Seedlings take about four weeks from seeding to planting out. They need two to three true leaves before transplanting. Harden off seedlings started indoors before planting them in soil that is at least 65°F Read more about starting seeds indoors at this University of Minnesota Extension website. Now that your squash is in the ground, they need at least one inch of water each week. Trellised plants may require watering more often. Water deeply by using a drip hose, soaker hose or careful watering of the soil making sure to keep the leaves dry. Poor fruit set and tasteless fruit can be due to rainy, cloudy or cold weather, when pollinators are not active. Heavy rainfalls can lead to oedema, which causes scabby, raised bumps on the fruit. If you want to use mulch, such as straw or compost to control weeds, wait until the soil is at least 75°F because the mulch can inhibit further warming. When the vines start to spread out, side dress with high-nitrogen fertilizer. Consult your soil test for amounts. The first blossoms often drop from the vines. This is not a problem, since the first blossoms are male, the female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base called the ovary. After pollination, the fruit develops. After your butternut squash is ripe, pick it before a hard freeze for best results. A light frost that kills the vine will usually not harm the fruit. Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Be careful not to cut or bruise the fruit. After cutting squash from the vines, you should “field-cure” them in place for a week or two in dry, sunny weather. This dries and toughens the skin for longer storage. If the weather becomes cold or rainy, cure the squash indoors in a well-ventilated, warm (80°F) place. Storage Winter squash should be stored in a cool (55°F) place, with good air movement. If you don’t have a good place to store them, you can freeze mashed squash, dry slices in a dehydrator, or can it. Check this site for more information about preserving winter squash. Butternut squash can be made into many dishes, from soups to roasted or candied cubes. Check out our Garden to Kitchen article this month for a mouth-watering squash recipe. Bon appétit! Photo and Drawing Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,3)

< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As the snow starts to melt and a few green tufts of grass peak out, it’s a great time to start thinking about planting native shrubs. If you have an area that needs screening for privacy, a walkway or border to delineate, a property line that needs a hedge, you would do well to think about a native shrub. Over the next three months we’ll talk about some great options. One very attractive choice is black chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa ). A. melanocarpa has been quite popular with the dietetically conscious in that it is rich in antioxidants and, even better, will not make you choke. Although it does have a distinct aftertaste which some find bracing and others, not so much. With the right recipe, the berries can make a tasty jam or jelly. In any event, you don’t need to eat the plant to enjoy it. It is an attractive woody perennial which is well behaved. It makes a great ornamental shrub, especially for a traditional garden. May flowers Black chokeberry grows in the wild from eastern Minnesota and northeastern Iowa eastwards across the Midwest. It is cold tolerant from Zone 3 to 8. Although it grows naturally on sandy soils it can easily be transplanted to a variety of environments ranging from sand to clay. It does well in full sun to light shade. Once established, black chokeberry produces, in May, clusters of attractive, showy white flowers with pink stamens that rise above the petals. They go on to form inky, glossy black fruit in late summer. The berries remain on the shrub through the winter providing interest against the snow. The leaves are usually a deep shimmering green which transforms into bright red in fall, setting off the glossy black fruit. Black chokeberry usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall. Although it is a well-behaved shrub, it will send off root suckers to form colonies. If you are going for a more formal look they can be easily removed. Ripe Fruit Black chokeberry is usually a very low maintenance plant once established. It is disease resistant to most blights although occasional leaf spot is sometimes seen. It is a versatile landscape plant which can be used in formal gardens although it also does well for naturalizing where suckering is not an issue. Its tolerance of boggy soils makes it a great addition to pond or stream margins. There are several cultivars available in nurseries. “Professor Ed” is one notable. Often , on-line sites specializing in native perennials of the Midwest can provide hearty specimens. black chokeberry in a naturalized setting Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2,3)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Happy Feathered Friends Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Is it important for us to take care of our feathered friends when the weather turns cold and the snow begins to fly? Yes it is, because birds play an important role in the ecosystem of our garden from weed and pest control to pollination and fertilization, plus birds are fun for all ages to watch. Now it’s time to help the birds stay strong and healthy throughout the Winter with only a few simple supplies needed. Supplies Needed: Pinecones (find pinecones in nature) Peanut Butter, Almond Butter, Sun Butter Bird Seed (smaller seeds are best) String, Twine, Yarn Popsicle Stick/Hands/Butter Knife (dependent on age of participants) Plate/Tray/Large Piece of Thicker Paper Making the Bird Feeder: Place the birdseed on a plate, tray or large sheet of thicker paper and set aside. Choose a pinecone from the ones collected. Carefully take a 1-2 foot piece of string, twine or yarn and begin wrapping it around the pinecone leaving an end that can be used to hang the pine cone from a tree or post. Next, take a popsicle stick, butter knife or your hands and spread peanut butter, almond butter or sun butter onto the pinecone. Spread enough “butter” onto the pinecone so there are lots of spots for the birdseed to stick. Now it is time to get messy! Take the pinecone and roll it in the birdseed making sure to coat as much of the pine cone as possible. Once you have completed coating the pinecone in birdseed the next step is to hang it outside. Remember to place the Pinecone Bird feeder in a spot where the birds feel protected from predators. Once you have found the right spot, sit back and enjoy the birds. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.Pexels.com (3,4)

< Back Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata): A Beautiful Bark and no Bite Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Shagbark Hickory is a striking tree, native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It can be a bit “goofy-looking” with is rough peeling bark. Yet it is a huge, long-lived, strong specimen that you might consider for your yard – or just appreciate it when you see it. This article tells you more about this special Minnesota native. We have a mature shagbark hickory just to the right of our garage. He greets me every time I come home. He’s a bit goofy looking, clothed in pealing bark, yet oddly beautiful as the light and shadows play on the trunk. Shagbark hickory is native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It is found in southeastern Minnesota, although it will do well throughout zone 4. Carya ovata is also called scaly bark hickory , Carolina hickory , upland hickory and shellbark hickory . These guys can get really big, up to 100 feet, and can live for 350 years. So, plan your planting placement carefully. As it has a long central taproot, it does not transplant easily - another problem for nursery growers. Bark of a mature Carya ovata As the name implies, mature shagbarks have shaggy bark. Young trees however, have a smooth bark. Be patient. It is a deciduous tree, starting to form nuts at about 10 years of age although large amounts aren’t seen until the tree hits age 40. Once it gets in gear, it will continue to produce for as long as 100 years. Unfortunately, it is an erratic producer with generous crops every 3 to 5 years. Thus, although the nuts are tasty, you’ll not see them in commercial production owing to the tree’s erratic crop yields. Shagbark hickory leaves Although you might not find hickory nuts at the store, when they do show up, they are a favorite of a number of species. Shagbark hickory feeds squirrels, mice, chipmunks and raccoons. Bears, foxes and a number of bird species including mallards, wood ducks, bobwhites and wild turkeys feed off shagbark nuts. It is the larval food for the Luna moth, walnut sphinx and also the royal walnut moth whose larval stage is called hickory horned devil. The wood is heavy and very strong and durable, great for woodworking if you’re the patient sort. Shagbark hickory nut Carya ovata prefers a humid climate with full sun. It is however shade tolerant although growth is slowed in such conditions. In general, it is a hardy tree with few pests and is tolerant of a wide range of temperature, although it does best in Zone 4 to 8. It is a slow grower so plan on any plantings as future shade trees. It’s worth the wait! Photo Credit: John B. Wikimedia Commons (1,2), www.forestryimages.org (3)

< Back Native Grasses for the Home Landscape Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Native grasses, sedges and flowers can be stunning at any scale; from vast prairie to small garden. In addition to the visual appeal, they provide essential habitat for many native insects and birds. The vegetation of the mesic prairie ecosystems that once covered much of southern and western Minnesota included a profusion of flowering plants and grasses. These resilient plants adapted to survive cold winters, hot summers, flood and drought and are still excellent choices for most of Minnesota. This article shares the benefits of and considerations for making native grasses a part of your landscape. Benefits of Native Grasses Long lived perennials Drought tolerant and soil stabilizers; due to deep root systems Enhanced soil; fibrous roots slough off and break down into organic matter Food source for wildlife; butterflies, skippers, birds Shelter for native insects, including butterflies, moths and bees Structural; support other plants Competitive with weeds Characteristics of Native Grasses Primarily warm season grasses; grow in late spring and flower in the hot summer Either clump or running growth habit Wind pollinated; flowers are small, do not need to attract pollinators Arrangement and branching patterns of florets in the seedhead (aka grass inflorescence) determine how grasses are identified, named, and classified Clump (Blue Grama) Inflorescence (Side Oats Grama) Design considerations for your site: What are your goals? Are there any restrictions at your site? What are your water and soil conditions? Some grasses are more suited to sandy, dry, high ground while some tolerate more wet conditions. Do you prefer a formal or informal design? A formal garden generally takes more space so the plants can show their full shape and allow for layering of heights from front to back. Formal (Noerenberg Memorial Gardens) Informal (Mendota Heights Victoria Road) Do you prefer a mix of textures and shapes or a uniform look? The clump form grows outward slowly so is less aggressive and good for mixes while the running growth habit is beneficial if you want a single grass to fill in a space for a functional purpose, for example to stabilize a slope or create a mow-able lawn. Short to medium height grasses are suited to locations with limited space where visibility and minimal spreading is desirable. Preferred grasses are generally shorter, of clump form, include visual interest from color and/or interesting seed heads, and mix well with low growing prairie flowers. Prairie Dropseed is widely adapted to soils ranging from dry, sandy and rock outcrops to low, wet mesic habits. It is an elegant clump form, at 2-4’ height. The nativar “tara’ is shorter in form at 24-30”. See Reference #1 for more information. Prairie Dropseed - fine foliage and inflorescence in summer Little Bluestem is an iconic species of Minnesota prairies that prefers loose, well-drained soil. Grows in clump form, at 2-4’ high. Host plant for several native butterflies, skippers. Showy, bright red in fall with shiny silver seedheads. Little Bluestem - bluish foliage in summer Blue Grama does well in dry, sand to loam soil, not clay. Clump form at height of 12-30”.Horizontal seed heads provide interest. See Reference #1 for more information. Side Oats Grama is related, a bit taller at 2-3’ height, different inflorescence. Junegrass does well in very dry, sandy soils. It is short, compact and upright at 2-3’ and mixes well with low-growing prairie flowers. A cool season grass; grows in early spring, flowers and sets seed late spring or early summer. Tall Native Grasses are generally not recommended for home gardens as they may overtake flowers over time but they can be a feature, screen or backdrop for other plants where more space is available and/or height is desirable. Big Bluestem is found throughout Minnesota. Grows in sand, loam, clay soil. It is tall at 8’, upright and open. It tends to self-sow and dominate and is subject to ‘lodging’ (falling over). Several nativars with different growing habits and color are available. See Reference #1 for more information. Indian Grass is found throughout Minnesota and does well in dry to moist soils (sand, loam, clay) with a height of 5-7’. It is medium aggressive and tends to self sow. It has a good upright form with golden seedheads, looks great with little bluestem and medium to tall flowers at the back of a border or garden. If you haven’t considered native grasses for your landscape before, it may be time to reconsider. Native grasses can be a stunning addition to your pollinator friendly garden. References Benefits of Native Grasses ; explained in three short informative videos by University of MN Extension Professor and Horticulturist Mary Meyer. On the same page as above; Free downloadable book “Gardening with Native Grasses in Cold Climates” by Diane M. Harem and Mary Hockenberry Meyer, includes information on grasses and flowers that together provide for the complete lifecycle of one or more Lepidoptera. UMN Extension Planting and maintaining a prairie garden . Numerous links on selecting Native Plants . Book “The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants” by Neil Diboll & Hilary Cox, copyright 2023, the University of Chicago Press. DNR Mesic Prairie . Native Plant Encyclopedia ; focus is on lakeshore management but also a way to look up distribution of native plants in the state. Minnesota Wildflowers ; a guide to the flora of MN. Sites to visit Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Specialty Gardens ; Ornamental Grass Collection. Current Projects at Dakota County Parks . Noerenberg Memorial Gardens in Wayzata. Many native and other grasses in a formal garden setting. Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1-7)

< Back The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants: Written By Neil Diboll and Hilary Cox Interested in prairie plants for your garden or just to admire? Jim Lakin reviews one of the most indispensable books on the subject – “The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants.” The book includes photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. But this book also contains more valuable information. Reviewed By Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One might wonder about the need for another guide to prairie plants when so many excellent volumes are in print. Two of the most notable are from the pen of our own Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Director of Operations, Alan Branhagen. [1] , [2] Yet Diboll and Cox’s, The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants, is unique in its contents and provides a valuable addition to the library of all those interested in and working with native plants of the Midwest. To be sure, the book contains the indispensable “Prairie Species Field Guide” with a plethora of photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. For those of us with extensive woodlands nearby, the inclusion of “Deer Palatability” is greatly appreciated. What makes this volume a uniquely desirable addition to the literature, however, is its copious theoretical and practical information. Chapters devoted to the history and ecology of the prairie, soil variations and their effect on prairie plants and the prairie food web provide valuable background. On a more practical level, the book discusses the mechanics of working with prairie plants. Designing, planting and maintaining prairie gardens is explained. Establishing a prairie meadow and rejuvenating it through a controlled burn are extensively treated. A very interesting chapter discusses propagating prairie plants from seed, a subject with many nuances. Finally, a compendium of valuable tables elaborate plant habitats and characteristics, wildlife attracted, plants for dry, medium and wet soils by bloom time (a valuable resource for our warming Upper Midwest) as well as listings of plants by bloom color and sun/shade preference. In all, Diboll and Cox have given us a powerful resource for the planning, planting and preservation of an increasingly vital component of our threatened ecology —native plants. [1] Branhagen, A., Native Plants of the Midwest, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2016. [2] Branhagen, A., The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2020. Photo credit: book cover

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)