< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Growing Plants Without Soil Although the last few winter months hang on, the hours of daylight continue to lengthen and many of us, including the little ones in our lives, are itching to see green. Green grass. Green leaves. Any new green growth. But even with a desire to have living, green plants around us and in our homes, some kids just aren’t excited about gardening. One reason may be that they don’t like the feel of soil or getting dirty. If this sounds like a kiddo in your life, read on to learn how to grow lovely green things while staying warm, and relatively clean, inside. Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener When it comes to growing plants indoors, there are many options, including soilless methods. These soilless methods are especially good for kids who are interested in plants, and like the idea of gardening, but just don’t like to get their hands dirty. If this sounds like a child you know, some options that may work for them include growing from seed, propagation, or re-growing plants from scraps of vegetables and fruits in your home. Starting from Seed Starting plants from seed can be done in different ways. It can be done using plastic bags and paper towels, in eggshells with wool cloth, or in used yogurt containers and coffee filters. No matter which option you and your budding gardener(s) choose, know that these plants will eventually need to be transferred into soil in larger containers if you want the magic to continue. An easy seed starting activity, and one with quick germination (sprouting from a seed) and very few materials, is starting seeds or legumes in a plastic bag. All that is required are a plastic resealable bag, a paper towel, a few staples, 3-4 lentils (1-7 days for germination) or lima beans (7-18 days for germination), and some water. First, soak the legumes for a few hours until the coating starts to change texture. While they are soaking, fold a paper towel to fit the entire width of the plastic bag. Next, dampen the paper towel, but drain any excess water from the bag as too much water may make the legumes rot. Next, put a few staples through both sides of the bag and the paper towel. These staples will create a nice ledge for the legumes to rest on and give everyone a better view of the roots as they grow. When the soaking is complete, place the legumes inside the bag and on top of the staples. Finally, seal the bag and tape it to a window in a sunny location. If the window is cold, find a warm sunny place to leave the bag. Depending on the type of legume you chose, bean or lentil, you could see growth as early as a day, but more realistically, it could be closer to a week, depending on the growing conditions. Propagation If, instead of starting from seed, you decide you would like to try propagation, the easiest option for going soilless is using plant cuttings. Plant cuttings can be placed right into water without the need for rooting hormones. Some types of plants that are easily propagated in water are pothos, philodendron, monstera, and jade. If you don’t have any houseplants of your own, try asking a neighbor or a friend. Chances are, someone close to you has a plant they are willing to let you take a cutting from. When you take a cutting from a plant, you want to pay special attention to the nodes. These are the parts of a plant that look like a juncture, the spot on a stem off of which a leaf grows. When propagating, it is important to have a couple of nodes and a couple of the topmost leaves. Too many leaves and the nutrients will go toward keeping the leaves healthy instead of growing roots. Too few leaves and there won’t be enough left for photosynthesis to take place. If you are using a cutting from a jade plant, follow the previous instructions. However, leave more of the leaves on the stem - 6-10, depending on the size of the cutting. Also, let the cutting sit out for a few days to let the stem callous. This makes it less likely for any rot to set in. When you are done prepping your cutting, find a clear drinking glass or jam jar. Clear glasses and jars allow you to watch your new plant’s roots grow! When you place your plant in water, make sure none of the leaves are touching the water or submerged. This will cause your leaves to rot, thus damaging your plant. Re-Growing The last method of soilless gardening discussed in this article is the re-growing of fruits and vegetables from either leftover scraps or produce that may be past their prime. Not all fruits and vegetables can be re-grown, but romaine lettuce, celery, and even avocados are prime examples of produce that have the ability to re-grow. If you are re-growing romaine lettuce or celery, simply cut off the stalks 1-2 inches from the base. Put the cut side up in a clear glass or bowl and fill the vessel with water, making sure to keep the base submerged. Change the water out every few days. Please note that browning to the cut side of these plants is normal. In addition, the warmer and sunnier the spot you choose for your plant the better it will do. Within a week, you and your little ones should see new celery and/or lettuce growing from the cut side. If re-growing an avocado seed, wash and dry the seed. Place 3-4 toothpicks or wooden skewers into the sides of the seed. Rest the toothpicks on the rim of a jar or clear glass, making sure the pointed part of the seed faces up and the flatter end rests partially in the vessel. Fill the vessel with warm water, making sure water is always touching the bottom of the seed. Change the water every few days. Just like with lettuce and celery, the warmer and sunnier the location, the happier your plant will be. Here’s hoping the little ones in your lives enjoy some soilless gardening indoors. Please remember, at some point all of these plants should be transferred to soil. For more information on that, check out the University of Minnesota Extension resources regarding propagation. Resources : Gardening Lab for Kids by: Renata Fossen Brown Get Growing by: Holly Farrell https://www.thespruce.com/jade-plant-propagation-7371399 https://www.gardentech.com/blog/gardening-and-healthy-living/growing-food-from-kitchen-scraps https://www.ruralsprout.com/regrow-vegetables/ Photo Credit: ruralsprout.com (all creative commons)(1), lifeovercs.com (2), lovethatleaf.co.nz (3), pexels.com (4)

< Back Have a Sunny Garden? Try These Perennials Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener Do you have an area of your garden that receives 6 to 8 hours of sun each day? If so, you will want to plant “sun perennials” in that space. Perennials that prefer a sunny location should thrive in your yard, assuming, of course, that you provide them with healthy soil, ample water, and some tender loving care. Read this article for profiles of “sun perennials” for every season between the frost dates. Calling all sun worshipers! Since I have a north facing house position, my front yard is mostly shady. Most of the plant color in my yard is found in the back yard, where the southern light creates the perfect environment for my sun-seeking perennials to blossom. In this article I will feature my top 3 full-sun-perennials for each season, that will ensure a constant show of color in your garden from last to first frost. The plants featured below perform best in full sun, which is defined as 6+ hours of direct sunlight a day. Spring These early bloomers pop up in our gardens as winter gives way to spring, seeking out the sun that has already begun to warm the soil. Yarrow This is the most eager plant in my garden and the fern-like leaves are already pushing through the soil. I especially love this hard-working plant for its ability to choke out weeds which it succeeded in doing last year in a problem area of my garden. The plant comes in a variety of colors and heights that are sure to suit any color scheme or garden size. It is important to note, however, that it can be aggressive so plan carefully. Bloom Duration : early spring to late fall. Fernleaf Yarrow Creeping Phlox My rock wall signals the first colors of spring as the matted green leaves appear, giving way to bright, florescent shades of pink, purple, and white flowers. This is a great ground cover and can be tucked in between rocks in an alpine garden. You can get a second bloom later in the growing season by deadheading any spent blooms. Bloom duration : 3-4 weeks Salvia Perennial Salvia is a great addition to the garden if you want to support our early pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Salvia is a drought tolerant choice that holds steady through our dry spells. It needs at least 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. Depending on the variety, this plant can range in size from 1’ to 5’, giving you multiple options for garden placement. To encourage multiple bloom cycles, trim off the spent flowers, or if it is under blooming, you can cut the plant back mid-summer to encourage more blooms. Bloom duration : 6-8 weeks in spring and then after a haircut, into late summer/fall. Summer By the time summer rolls around, the heat is reaching new heights and as we have seen in the past few years, rolling drought puts a lot of strain on our plants. Luckily, these sun-loving perennials are built to withstand some weather-related strain. Common Milkweed Beautiful and fragrant purple/pink poms top off THE host plant for the Monarch butterfly. Even planting one milkweed plant in your yard will help support future generations of this at-risk butterfly. Once hatched, the young caterpillars will feast on the leaves so be cautious using chemicals around this plant. Common Milkweed is best placed in the center or the back of your garden due to its height, which averages around 3’-5.’ The seeds pods should be collected at the end of the season to prevent reseeding. Bloom duration : June – September. Hardy Geranium - G. Rozanne If you are looking for a sprawling, prolific bloomer, this is your plant. The violet-blue petals persist through the heat of summer and into fall, attracting bees and hummingbirds. This low maintenance plant really pulls its weight in the garden, but if it starts to lag, you can prune it back mid-season to rejuvenate it. Stunning along a border, or in the garden where you can create a cascading effect. Blooming Duration : Early Summer – Late fall. Coneflower (Echinacea) A garden staple, the coneflower supports pollinators in spring and summer, and provides seeds to songbirds (like Goldfinch) throughout the fall and winter months. When choosing a coneflower, opt for a less showy bloom with a single blossom to attract more pollinators. Think of the center of the flower as a landing pad. If it is obstructed by a complex petal structure, pollinators may find the flower less attractive and move on in search of flowers easier to access. To ensure a long bloom season, deadhead the spent flowers to promote a second flush of blooms. Blooming Duration : July – September. Autumn Cooler temperatures are followed by fading flowers and the promise of garden cleanup before the snow flies. Luckily, the color show does not have to end. These plants will round out the year with their warm, vivid colors. Aster Aside from its striking color amid a dulling floral background, this plant plays a critical role in continuing the nourishment of late season pollinators. Great for filling out a space in the garden that is abundant in spring and summer bloomers, to keep the color rolling into fall. You can cut these down to the ground once the first frost arrives or wait until spring to allow birds to enjoy the seeds through winter. Blooming Duration : August – October Sedum As a member of the stonecrop family, Autumn Joy Sedum is unique. The taller varieties, which can grow up to 24”, have large succulent leaves and tight clusters of flowers that deepen to rose or salmon as the temperatures cool in the fall. This variety is perfect in a garden where spring and summer blooming flowers have faded. Creeping sedum is used as a ground cover and is well suited for rocky landscapes with dry soil conditions where it is harder to grow other types of plants. Blooming Duration : Late summer into fall. Autumn Joy Stonecrop Hardy Mums A true sign of fall, this beautiful plant comes in a multitude of colors and is prized for its late season blooms. It is important to note that there are two distinct types of mums: the “hardy mum” and the “florist mum.” “Florist mums” are typically found at the end of the season at grocery or hardware stores. They are not adapted to our winters and are mainly a short-lived decorative plant. A “hardy mum” may need to be sourced out of a catalogue or special ordered from your nursery and should be planted in the spring to encourage root establishment through the year. Once established, you will be rewarded with a reliable display of color into fall each year. Bloom Duration : Late summer – Late fall. It is important to remember that while there are many plants that are versatile in their light requirements, with the ability to exist in a range of sun exposures, plants do have a best sun exposure which should be adhered to as much as possible to ensure that your plant is in a space where it can reach its full potential. These sun perennials need full sun to perform their best and to delight you year after year. Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Mike Myers, Flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), Stockbridge School of Agriculture ( UMass.edu ) (4), Penn State Extension; extension.psu.edu (5), Horticulture and Home Pest News; iastate.edu (6), UW Arboretum ( wisc.edu ) (7), PNW Plants ( wsu.edu ) (8), Illinois Extension (UIUC) (9)

< Back Make Chile Rellenos from Your Poblano Peppers Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Joy Johnson planted a variety pack of pepper seeds that produced an abundance of peppers. In this article, she provides a recipe for using the Poblano Peppers to make Chile Rellenos. She promises that the making is easy and the result is delicious! Chile Rellenos Ingredients: 6 fresh poblano or Anaheim chile peppers 1 - 8 oz. package queso asadero (white Mexican cheese), cut into ¾-inch thick strips 2 large eggs, separated 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup all -purpose flour 1 cup vegetable shortening or canola oil for frying Process: Preheat the oven broiler; set the oven rack about 6 inches below the heat source. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place peppers onto the prepared baking sheet and broil until skins are blackened and blistered, about 10 minutes. Use tongs to rotate peppers often to char all sides. Place blackened peppers into a bowl and tightly seal with plastic wrap. Allow peppers to steam as they cool, about 15 minutes. Remove skin from peppers, then cut a slit down the long side of each one to remove seeds and core. Rinse peppers inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Stuff peppers with strips of cheese. Whisk egg yolks and baking powder in a bowl until combined. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold beaten whites into the yolk mixture. Place flour into a separate shallow bowl. Melt vegetable shortening in a skillet over medium heat. Roll each stuffed pepper in flour, tap off excess flour, and dip into the egg mixture to coat both sides. Gently lay coated peppers into the hot shortening. Fry peppers until lightly golden brown and cheese has melted, about 5 minutes per side. Eat and enjoy! Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Therapeutic Landscapes for Stress Relief Feeling stressed? Has the Covid culture left you feeling socially isolated? Learn about the healing power of gardens and gardening in this article. Cathy Johnson, Master Gardener The notion that gardens are healing places is not new. It is well supported in research that outside settings improve mental and physical health . . . improved focus, improved creativity, reduced depression and stress, shortened hospital stays and increased test scores in classrooms where plants are growing. One only has to look at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Nature Heals Toolkit to see the profound connection between nature and healing. After all, folks are Covid weary beyond belief and wondering - is there some end in sight for the recurring surges and resulting restrictive lifestyle which seems to be the new norm? Peter Petrow of the Washington Post wrote an article, ‘Embracing Healing Places,’ which led me to thinking about how therapeutic landscapes might just be even more healing now than ever. After all, humans are “biophilic” - innately drawn to life - because we are genetically connected to plants and nature. Being in nature makes our brains secure, more connected to what our bodies are experiencing. But the Covid pandemic resulted in more of us working indoors, some seldom having to leave our places of residence. We have become used to using our computers to shop and having items delivered, reducing the need to go outside. Social isolation can only increase feelings of disconnect, and a longing for things to “get back to normal.” Geraldine Perriam, a professor at the University of Glasgow, states that humans, while on a quest for healing, seek not just a cure, but alleviation and improvement in life style. The question for individuals then becomes, ‘Where do you need to go to for healing? What places make you feel better. The answer will be different for everyone, but a few common threads emerge from research, which are helpful to us all. Water is the most common element listed in descriptions of healing places. The colors of blue and green are associated with calm, positive energy and better health outcomes. The obvious connection between the life-giving properties plants and water, comes to mind. On a quest for a feeling of well-being, columnist Pagan Kennedy suggests just going someplace where you can work the soil with your hands. Why? M. Vaccae , a soil bacterium, acts like an anti-depressant once it enters the human body. David Conradson, professor at the University of Canterbury New Zealand, suggests that folks go wherever they feel connected to nature. Are your senses being stimulated . . . all five of them? Sensory stimulation is essential to achieving balance and a sense of ease. In these Covid weary times, humans want to feel “put together again.” Gardening is an authentic experience which provides all of the elements which humans seek in that quest for alleviation, a path toward healing. In imagining your “therapeutic landscape,” remember to think about where you need to go to feel better and be intentional about recognizing those feelings. Look at a map and find green or blue spaces, walk in your yard, or a neighborhood park. Go out of your way to seek your healing place. As for me, I think I’m headed for a garden with some green and blue, some trickling water, some fragrances, warmth, humidity, and just a place to unwind. Maybe I’ll see you there. Hygge on! References: Nature Heals Community Engagement Toolkit, University of Minnesota Extension Larson, Jeanne and Mike Maddox. Center for Spirituality and healing University of Minnesota. Presentation in June of 2019 at State Master Gardener’s Meeting. “Healing Aspects of Gardening” Petrow, Steven. Washington Post, ‘Embracing ‘healing places,’ January 4, 2022. Many references cited. Photo Credit: Free from Pixababy (1,2) & University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Plants for Winter Interest Marjory Blare, Master Gardener In Minnesota, the winter color palette tends toward white, brown and gray. But we need not think of this landscape as drab or uninteresting. Fill your yard with interesting shrubs and sturdy perennials to enjoy a peacefully pleasing home landscape. Read this article for several plants that liven up a winter landscape. When beautiful white snow blankets everything, it's nice to have plants that provide a contrast to that blanket. Here are several plants that liven up a winter landscape: Red or Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) These extremely hardy native shrubs add bright red or yellow stems to your yard. They can grow 6-8 feet tall and the same in width. They can take full sun to part-shade. They tolerate wet conditions and are deer-resistant. The yellow twig dogwood is a natural variant of the red. To keep the stems bright, prune out the older stems to stimulate new growth. Other common names for this shrub include: Shoemack, Waxberry Cornel, Red-Dosier Cornel, Red Willow, Red Brush, Red Rood, Harts Rouges, Gutter Tree and Dogberry Tree. As a bonus the bright twigs can be cut to add a bright vertical element to winter pots! Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) This densely-needled conifer provides a medium green note to your yard. Various cultivars range from 2-10 feet tall and 2-15' wide. It is tolerant of many soil types, but doesn't like wet feet. It is salt and pollution tolerant, deer-resistant and requires full sun. You may want to prune some of the taller varieties, which involves cutting the new growth back by half. False Cypress 'Golden Mops” (Chamaecyparis) Golden Mops forms a slightly conical mound of scaly, yellow, thread-like leaves. They grow slowly to 3-5 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide. They need full-sun to part-shade, but look greener in shade. They are drought and salt tolerant and can take some browsing by deer and rabbits. They are not too picky about soil, but don't like wet feet. Dark Green Spreader Yew (Taxus x media) This shrub that is a darker green than the Mugo pine. This shrub will easily take light, full-shade. It thrives in all soils as long as they are well-drained. It is deer-resistant. Take note that all parts of it are poisonous. Its red berries are attractive to small children. It can grow up to 10 feet tall and will generally be wider than tall. It doesn't require pruning, but does respond well to it. American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) Here is a conifer with an upright columnar habit. The native plant can reach heights of 30', but there are many cultivars such as 'Hetz Midget', that are only 3-4 feet wide by 4-5 feet tall. In hard winters, deer will forage on arborvitae. Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar. There are many other plants that can provide interest: Joe Pye Weed seed heads, tall sedum, seed heads from flowers. Ornamental grasses that provide a creamy, tan color. Look for plants that have interesting shapes, such as Henry Lauder's Walking Stick, with its twisty branches. Then there are interesting barks such as the native small tree, Serviceberry with glossy bark or (taller) river birch with exfoliating bark. Winterberry, hollies, White Baneberry (another native) and some crab-apples all hang onto their fruit into the winter. Winter is a great time to plan for next year's winter interest. Research your plants and be sure to get a soil test before planting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Marjory Blare (2, 4, 5), WWW.flickr.com Mark Bolin (3)

< Back Pruning Tomato Plants For many of us, the thought of cutting off parts of a healthy plant is hard. Why would you want to do that? The answer is explained in this article about pruning tomato plants. Hint – pruning can protect your tomato plant from disease and produce more fruit – who doesn’t want more tomatoes? So, read on to learn more about why and how to prune your tomatoes for a successful crop. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the hardest things I do in the garden - emotionally, not physically - is pruning. The thought of cutting off healthy parts of a plant seems somehow wrong. But, in fact, it is one of the steps you can take to promote greater vegetable production in many varieties of plants, particularly tomatoes. Pruning is the process of selectively removing parts of a plant to promote healthy plant growth. Pruning can help increase fruit size and overall production. It can also help reduce the occurrence of diseases in the plant. A primary focus of pruning in tomatoes is on suckers. Suckers are the growth that appears at the intersection of two branches. These suckers compete with the primary stem causing an overabundance of vegetative growth and resulting in reduced flowering, fruit set, and yield. If you are hesitant to cut that healthy looking stem and leaf, remind yourself that you are growing the plant for the fruit it will produce, not for the foliage. Photo credit: Linda Stein Another reason to remove the suckers is that the removal of excess growth will promote air circulation in the plant allowing the plant to dry out more quickly after a rain or after watering. In addition, when I first plant my tomatoes, I prune some of the lower branches to reduces the risk of soil splatter that can bring diseases to the plant. Photo credit: Linda Stein However, in general the best time to do major pruning depends on the type of tomato plant you are growing – determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are those that grow to a predetermined height and produce all their fruit within a few weeks. These plants should be pruned when they get to be about 1 - 2 feet tall. Only prune those suckers that appear below the first fruit cluster . Research has shown that it doesn’t help to remove suckers above. Indeterminate tomatoes are those that continue to grow and produce over the course of the growing season. These plants should be pruned frequently along the full length of the plant. As soon as either of these plant types set fruit, it is suggested that you thin lower foliage and suckers to improve airflow and reduce the severity of leaf spot diseases. Prune by pinching off the growth you wish to remove. If the piece is too thick to pinch, cut with a clean shear. In all cases, do not prune more than 1/3 of the plant. Proper pruning as part of your gardening routine should help promote healthy plants with maximum yield. Here’s to a bumper crop of fresh tomatoes. References: How to Prune Tomatoes , Iowa State University, (YouTube) Pruning Greenhouse Tomatoes for Optimum Yield , https://e-gro.org/pdf/E208.pdf How to Properly Prune Your Tomatoes , LSU College of Agriculture, http://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/home_gardening/vegetables/home_garden_crops/pruningtomatoes Pruning Tomato Plants , UNH Cooperative Extension, https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource000598_Rep620.pdf

< Back Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis): A Plant to Dye For / With! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Ever wonder why Blue Wild Indigo is nicknamed “False Indigo.” Read the answer to this question and more about why you should consider this hardy native for a spot in your sunny garden. “Any flower this intense a blue must be good for dyes. It must be indigo!” or so thought early European settlers coming to the Eastern Seacoast and meeting Baptisia australis . Alas, the plant proved inferior to the real thing as a dye—Blue Indigo or Indigofera sp. Thus, it acquired its alternate name of False Indigo. Nonetheless, the intense blue bloom of blue wild Indigo justifies your adding it to your garden, even if you aren’t into textile dying! Blue wild indigo is found across the upper and Mid-Atlantic seaboard, extending into the Midwest. It grows well in dry to medium well-drained soil in full sun. It will tolerate part-shade but does get a bit spindly. It tends to form in expanding clumps which put down deep roots—thus, its tolerance of drought and poor soils. However, it’s not a good idea to disturb the plant and its roots once established. The plants can get three to four feet tall and spread out a similar length so some folks will trim them after blooming. This helps keep a more rounded shape but at the expense of removing the seed pods which form. These fellows are a delight! The pods can be 2 to 3 inches long, turning a charcoal black. The seeds are loose in the pod so they make a great rattle. If you aren’t into that, the cut stems and seed pods can make a striking addition to dried flower arrangements. Blue wild indigo can be grown from seed, but this is a slow process. Blooming usually doesn’t occur for several years. Baptisia australis is an herbaceous perennial. It is hardy from Zones 3 to 9 so it should be good to go throughout Minnesota. It usually blooms during May and June and attracts a number of pollinators, especially butterflies. It does well as a back border or a naturalizer in prairies or meadows. It is a tough customer with few insect or disease problems. It is, however sensitive to juglone, that antisocial chemical secreted by walnut trees, so don’t plant blue indigo around them. Otherwise, blue wild indigo can be a beautiful, low maintenance addition to your garden. Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Enhance Your Home with Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is a vine that is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. It provides a unique old world vibe to celebrate the change in season, with no additional effort by you! Aside from saving money on seasonal decorating, Boston Ivy can also be used to cover up an outdated brick façade on your home – which is much more affordable than switching out the brick itself. If you desire a little more privacy or shade on your deck or patio, Boston Ivy can also be grown in a pot and trained to spread across a deck railing, fence, or pergola, just like a screen. Boston Ivy is very versatile and can be grown as a ground cover to provide a uniform look to a garden or wooded area or used for erosion control on a slope. Hardiness Zone Boston Ivy is native to Asia, Korea, Japan and eastern China, but grows well in US Zones 4-8 How to Grow P refers Sun and Part Shade Water well until established then water periodically. Prefers average to dry well-drained soil. Vine grows best on Eastern or Northern facings walls, but grows well on Western Walls too. T olerant of a wide range of soil types and urban pollution. Fast growing and can climb 30 to 40 feet Provides berries for birds in the Fall. Vine grows and travels via small “sucker disks” which can easily be pulled down off wall. May cause some speckling on painted siding or trim. Trim back undesired growth using a scissors periodically throughout growth season (e.g. around windows, doors, roofing, etc.) For more information go to University of Minnesota Extension: https://trees.umn.edu/boston-ivy-parthenocissus-tricuspidata References: Monrovia.com Yates.co.nz Photo credits: Yates.co.nz (1), Doreen Wynja (2, 3), Mary Barnidge (4)

< Back Planning to Promote Success in Your 2022 Vegetable Garden March is a great time to start to plan for your summer vegetable garden. Whether you’re planning your first vegetable garden or you’re an experienced vegetable gardener, there are things you can be doing to enhance the probability of a successful growing season. Linda Stein, Master Gardener Experienced gardeners review last year’s successes and failures. Some problems that you encountered may be indicative of issues that you may wish to address as you prepare for the upcoming growing season. If your vegetable plants had lush leaf growth but limited vegetables, it may be because your soil has excess nitrogen and/or inadequate phosphorus. When we experience a thaw and you can dig in your garden, you may wish to have a soil test to determine how to amend the soil to promote effective growth. Go to the University of Minnesota’s website ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden ) for details on how to submit a sample for testing. If you have been planting the same vegetables in the same locations you may have seen poorer harvests. As you prepare for the coming year consider rotating the location of specific plants to reduce damage from insect pests, limit the development of vegetable-specific diseases and manage soil fertility. Vegetables should be considered in the following groups: root vegetables, fruit-bearing vegetables, legumes, and leafy vegetables as you rotate the location of plants. So, for example, don’t plant fruit-bearing plants such as bell peppers where tomatoes were planted last year. Instead, plant legumes, root vegetables like carrots, or leafy vegetables such as lettuce. Many vegetables can be started from seeds, planted indoors and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. March is the appropriate time to plant broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower seeds indoors so they are ready for the Minnesota growing season. If you are planning your first vegetable garden, consider the following: Review your yard to find a location that receives at least 6 hours of sun. Decide which vegetables you would like to grow. Some of the easiest ones to grow include lettuce, cucumbers, green beans, summer squash, root vegetables (such as radishes and carrots), bell peppers, tomatoes, and peas. Review online listings or plant catalogs to determine the specific variety of the vegetables to plant. Make sure the plant will survive in Minnesota’s climate. Also consider the production habit of the plant. Some varieties continue producing over a prolonged period of time while others produce all their fruit over a short period of time. Develop a layout for planting. Consider traditional straight rows or square foot layouts. Consider how many plants of each vegetable to plant. Some vegetables like to be planted close together while others prefer space to allow good air flow around the plant. Plant tall plants along the northern end of our garden so they don’t shade shorter plants. Send a soil sample to the University of Minnesota to determine how you should amend the soil to promote plant health and vegetable production. (See link to the soil testing site above.) Consider March the start of your vegetable growing season and prepare for success in your 2022 garden. Photo Credit: Linda Stein (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Southern Foodways Alliance (3)