< Back Harvesting and Preserving Herbs Harvest time is such a fun time of the year. There are so many herbs to harvest and preserve for the upcoming winter months. Some share their bounty year after year, like tarragon and oregano, and others, like basil and marjoram, are planted in spring for a fall harvest. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener I’m always playing with herbs in my yard, tucking them into the landscape, my gardens, and containers. Wherever they end up, as fall approaches, my attention turns toward harvesting. I’ll share a couple of harvesting techniques that have worked well for me over the years. Personally, I tend to wait as long as possible before the final harvest. Oftentimes I find myself gathering armfuls of herbs to bring indoors in a race against inclement weather, especially my frost-sensitive herbs. Looking at mountains of plant material all over my kitchen counters and in buckets makes me sometimes wonder what I was thinking way back in the spring! Anyway, here are some techniques that help me prolong the fresh herbs for cooking and make short work of processing. These methods preserve the flavor and essential oils, which is what it’s all about. First, prepping for harvest is important. I don’t like to waste an enormous amount of time washing and drying herbs once they are inside, so I try to use the gift of rain. This washes the majority of dust, dirt and debris from the herbs. It also ensures they are hydrated just prior to harvest. If no rain, then I achieve the same effect with a garden hose. My favorite way to process a lot of herbs is what I refer to as the ‘slurry’ method. I’ll use basil, since it is a perfect example. Basil does not like temps below 50 degrees F, and discolors to an unappetizing brown if cold and wet. This method preserves the color and makes it super simple to use in cooking. The key to a slurry is the ratio of fresh, packed herbs to oil. Use a 4:1 ratio. The process is simple. Two cups packed leaf material and ½ cup oil (my favorite is olive). Do not use woody stems. Using a food processor, start pulsing the leaf material, and slowly add the oil until incorporated. The mixture should be thick and pourable, but not runny. Fill ice cube trays and freeze the mixture. Once frozen, store in freezer bags. I mark the bags with ice cubes that equal 2 cups of herbed cubes. This is the base amount to make one recipe of pesto. If you want to make a pesto, just thaw, and add the remainder of pesto ingredients to it. Otherwise, for cooking, just pop an ice cube or two as needed or desired. The slurry method works well also with water as an oil substitute. Another favorite technique of mine is to make herb bouquets. I just go outside and collect herbs as you would cut flowers, and bring them in and arrange the herbs in vases. If the herb is annual, such as basil, I will cut it right at the ground level and bring the whole plant inside. If it is a perennial, such as tarragon, then just bring in a number of branches. They last for weeks this way, and provide fresh herbs for your cooking well into fall. I find the varied greens of the herbs are as beautiful as flowers. There are so many ways to preserve herbs, but these are a couple of my favorites. Here’s to fall bouquets of green! Photo credits Emily Murphy, “ PassthePistil.com ” (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4)

< Back December - Feed The Birds That Live in Your Neighborhood Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Winter is upon us and as the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fall, our feathery friends need our help finding food. The first step is to understand what birds you have in your neighborhood. Different birds eat different foods. Observe with your young gardeners what birds frequent your area to determine the best way you can help. There are many different make-at-home birdfeeders but let’s get started on making mini frozen bird feeders that can be made, frozen and set out for our feathery friends this winter. But what do the birds in my backyard enjoy the most? The birds that most frequent our area include cardinals, bluejays, chickadees, various woodpeckers, titmice, grosbeaks, finches, sparrows, doves, nuthatches, bluebirds and juncos. Do all birds eat the same? No! The strength of the bird’s beak will help to determine what might be on their menu. Favorite bird seeds include black sunflower seeds which packs a lot of energy for a large number of birds with strong beaks (cardinals, chickadees, titanic); thistle seed (a finch favorite); millet (ground feeding birds); nectar; peanuts (a bluejay’s favorite) and fruit and berries, all provide a special treat for many types of birds. Mini frozen bird feeders are a way to help care for our feathery friends and our environment as well as provide a fun “kid size” activity. Mini Frozen Birdfeeder Supplies : Muffin Tin, Single Serve Empty Yogurt Containers, Small Bowls or Large Ice Cube Trays Bird Seed (1-2 cups) Water (1-2 cups) Cotton Twine Scissors Liquid Measuring Cup Fruits (berries, oranges) or Unsalted Peanuts Begin preparing the mini frozen bird feeders by filling the muffin tin, large ice cube trays or individual yogurt containers ¾ of the way full of birdseed, peanuts and or fruits. Then fill the container with water up to almost the rim. Cut and place a 7-9-inch piece of twine creating a loop. Push the cut ends deep into the bird feeder container to the bottom. Doing this with the twine will prevent the twine from falling out when hung. Place the containers into the freezer for 2-4 hours and then remove from containers when you are ready to hang the frozen bird treat outside. Once the temps fall below freezing outside your Growing Sprout and yourself will hang up your mini frozen bird feeders outside on tree limbs or shepherd hooks. Let the bird watching begin and observe what birds are visiting your neighborhood. Photo Credit: Flickr.com (1), pixnio.com (2), raxpixel.com (3)

< Back Minnesota’s State Muffin and Its Star Ingredient: The Blueberry Blueberry season may be over this year, but as you reflect on this past year and contemplate what to plant next year, a beverage with a nice, big, blueberry muffin may inspire your garden plans. Is your mouth watering yet? Read about the blueberry muffin, some interesting information about growing and picking blueberries in Minnesota, and you’ll also find a couple of bonus recipes to try this winter! Lisa Olson, Master Gardener All 50 states have state symbols - some more than others. (Looking at you, Texas, with at least 70 state symbols!) Only three states, however, have a muffin symbol. New York chose the apple muffin, Massachusetts has the corn muffin, and in 1987 a group of elementary students from Carlton, Minnesota, near Duluth, began their quest to secure the blueberry muffin as the Minnesota state muffin. It was really an exercise in learning about the legislative process. And educational it was. Their first assignment was to choose the muffin flavor that best represented Minnesota. Blueberry was the students’ muffin of choice - fitting, since blueberries are grown across the state. After multiple trips to the capitol during the next session to watch the process of passing bills, the blueberry muffin eventually made its way through in 1988. Perhaps it helped that the “Blueberry Muffin Gang” from Carlton brought muffins for all the legislators on one of their trips in order to help their cause. Minnesota is home to two native blueberry plants: lowbush ( Vaccinium angustifolium ) and velvetleaf ( V. myrtilloides ). They are mostly found in the northeast part of the state, but they can be found across the state from the northwest to the far southeast corner as well. Wild blueberries are generally much smaller than cultivated blueberries so growing blueberries commercially in Minnesota was a challenge because of the cold climate. That changed when the University of Minnesota began researching and breeding cold-hardy, large-fruited cultivars in the 1960’s. Larger berries, taller plants making picking the fruit easier, and breeding for harvesting over a longer season have all greatly improved the commercial production and also provided home growers with more varieties to choose from. The University of Minnesota even cultivated a pink variety. Yes, a pink blueberry! If you are interested in growing blueberries at your home, the University of Minnesota is a great resource to help you select the right plant for your conditions, and for planting and maintaining tips. Here are some quick facts to get you started: Not interested in growing your own? You can still pick your own. There are numerous pick-your-own farms in Minnesota. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, you can pick wild blueberries. Minnesota state parks, Superior National Forest lands, state forest lands, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area all actually allow berry picking for personal consumption. If you pick an abundance, they freeze well so you can enjoy them all year. Here are a couple of recipes to enjoy. Even though blueberry picking season in Minnesota ends in July or August, blueberry muffins are always in season. The muffin recipe is the official state muffin recipe from the Minnesota Secretary of State website. The pie recipe is especially good for fall and winter occasions with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. You will need some fresh blueberries, so thankfully it is always blueberry season somewhere in the world! The combination of fresh and cooked berries make this pie unique and especially delicious. Enjoy! Blueberry Muffin Recipe By Shari Baker, Gunflint Pines Resort 2 c. Flour ½ c. Sugar 1 T. Baking powder ½ t. Salt 1 T. Orange zest (grated peel) 1 c. Blueberries (fresh, dried, or frozen—Do not thaw or rehydrate) 1 c. White Chocolate Chips (*optional, but great!) 1-¼ c. Buttermilk 1 Egg ½ t. Vanilla Sugar in the Raw (large-grain brown sugar) Preheat oven to 425F. Mix buttermilk, egg, and vanilla; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, orange zest, blueberries, and white chocolate chips. Make well in center, pour in liquid mixture, and stir lightly just until mixed. Spoon into lined or greased muffin tins. Top with sugar in the raw, and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Makes a “baker’s dozen”. New England Blueberry Pie 4 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar, packed 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cinnamon ⅛ tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. salt 1 8-9” baked pie shell In a saucepan, combine 2 c. berries with sugar, flour, butter, lemon juice, and all the spices and salt. Cook over low heat to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Cool. When cool, add the remaining 2 c. of blueberries. Transfer all of the blueberry mixture into the cooled pie shell. Chill pie. Serve with whipped cream. Resources: https://www.startribune.com/minnesota-symbols-blueberry-muffin-carlton-south-terrace/600172953/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2023/jul-aug/bucket.html https://mnhardy.umn.edu/blueberries https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-blueberries-home-garden#staking-and-support-19061 https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-muffin-blueberry/ https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/commercial-blueberry-production-minnesota-and-wisconsin Photo credits: Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Courtesy of University of Minnesota (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Asters Smooth Aster The New England Aster is a common plant for Zone 4. Flowers are lavender to violet and yellow centers 1-2” wide. Flowers bloom on the stem ends in late August through October. The plant flourishes in moist acidic soil. Mature plants have woody stems and fibrous roots. Asters are mostly maintenance free but some mature plants can become top heavy and require support. A general low nitrogen fertilizer will help reduce the green foliage growth and produce more blooms. Trimming buds in late May encourages the growth of a bushy plant that is more stable during heavy wind and rainstorms. Divide the plant every three years to encourage vigorous growth. There are several other native aster species to explore each with different characteristics. They range from tall branching plants to shrubs to ground covers. Flowers are blue to violet or white. Some native aster species are: Purple Dome- Dwarf grows 18-24”, deep purple flowers in late summer Heath aster- Native to MN prairies and woodland edges, compact Smooth Aster – blue-violet flowers on 2-3’ stems, late summer Sky Blue Aster – similar to Smooth Aster but likes dry, sunny site Heart-Leaved Aster - Native to SE MN with white to sky-blue flowers Calico Aster – shade plant with small white flowers and 2-3 tall Aromatic Aster - Native to SE MN. More drought tolerant, late bloomer Big Leaf Aster – shady groundcover with large leaves and tall white flowers Check out this article in Northern Gardener for more information about these asters. Companion plants are goldenrod, grasses, oxeye, obedient plant, and showy tick trefoil. The combinations create a colorful late season pollinator garden. Asters are a colorful bloom in late summer and a critical fresh food source for migrating pollinators. Hyssops Blue Giant Hyssop Minnesota native hyssops (Agastache Foeniculum) are another late summer bloomer and fall pollinator. All plants are native to dry areas throughout Minnesota. Hyssops bloom in late summer-fall and are another valuable nectar source for bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Anise hyssop, also known as Blue Giant Hyssop or Lavender Hyssop is a pollinator magnet beloved by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. They have light blue-violet tubular flowers on 2-4’stems. They will grow in full sun to part shade and in dry fields and bloom throughout the summer. This plant is also deer resistant. Hyssop is a lovely addition to the urban garden. The attractive light green lance shaped leaves set the plant apart from other zone 4-8 perennials. All hyssops self-sow but the volunteer plants are easily pulled. Hyssop will grow in a perennial garden or border planting in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Hyssop is an herb. Anise hyssop’s scented leaves can be harvested for tea, for salads, and other drinks. A member of the Lemnaceae family, hyssop is a shrub that is also native to SE Europe, Middle East and the region around the Caspian Sea. It has an interesting herbal medicinal history being used as an antiseptic, cough reliever, expectorant, and abortive during medieval time. Other hyssop cultivars include: Golden jubilee- gold-colored leaves & is 20” tall. Alba and snowspire- white-flower spikes on top of 36” stems. Companions to hyssop include goldenrod, black-eyed Susan, and coneflower. Native asters and hyssops are not only a beautiful addition to any garden, they are an essential food source for pollinators; particularly late in the summer season. Sources: ext.umn.edu/native-plants www.webmed.com Steiner, Lynn, D. Landscaping with native plants of Minnesota. MBI Publishing, China, 2005 Northern Gardener Anise Hyssop and Asters Photo Credits: Northern Gardener, Benjamin Vogt (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, Katy Chayka

< Back Discover Delicata Squash? Delicata Squash is favored for its delicate, edible skin. No peeling necessary! This squash is booming in popularity. Here are some growing tips. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener So what is delicata squash anyway? It is an oblong shaped squash with green or orange lines running from end to end. It is actually classified as a winter squash but has a thin skin (similar to summer squash) that can be eaten. The delicate skin is the basis for its name. Even though it is technically a winter squash, it does not store as well as other winter squash though because of its skin. It is a cultivar of the species called Cucurbita pepo . Other common names for this squash are peanut squash, Bohemian squash, or sweet potato squash. I have to admit that I had never even heard of Delicata Squash until last year when I learned that 228 Master Gardeners from 49 counties across Minnesota conducted seed trials on this plant. Six different varieties were tested. Master gardeners were looking for the best germination rates, how well the seeds grew, which ones tasted best including texture, and insect and disease susceptibility, as well as a few other factors. Click here to learn more about how this particular squash type performed. This squash appears to be growing in popularity since Cornell University’s Plant Breeding department developed a non-hybrid open pollinated variety around twenty years ago which was more mildew disease resistant. Master Gardeners across the state found it was easy to grow. What some of us didn’t know was what to do with it once harvested. Delicata squash is primarily roasted but can also be steamed, sauteed, and microwaved. Some recipes call for the squash to be stuffed with meat or other vegetables. I knew it was becoming popular when Country Living had an article on “31 Ways to Use Delicata Squash for Dinner Tonight” (October 22, 2021) among other websites/magazines. Delicata squash is a good source of dietary fiber and potassium but not as rich in beta-carotene as other winter squashes. However, if you want to try something different, consider growing this product in your garden this year. Sow seed in the garden in late May to early June, or start seeds indoors in late April. Make sure to pick squash before a hard freeze. Check out our Master Gardener videos on growing Delicata Squash: “How, When’s, Where’s,” “Delicata Squash Borer Protection,” “Delicata Squash Borer,” and “ Delicata Squash Harvest.” Sources: https://extension.umn.edu/news/master-gardeners-are-busy-during-winter https://www.countryliving.com/food-drinks/g4686/delicata-squash/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/pumpkins-and-winter-squash#choosing-pumpkin-and-winter-squash-varieties-235460 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delicata_squash Photo Credit: Gurney's Seed and Nursery,creative Commons Licenses (1) & Centerstagewellness.com , Flickr Pro (2)

< Back Bird Feeding Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. PLACEMENT OF BIRD FEEDERS Always place your bird feeders where you can frequently see the birds feeding but no closer than 3 feet from your windows. If you want to attract a larger number of birds, use Nyjer and black oiled sunflowers in a tube feeder, hulled sunflowers and whole peanuts in hopper and platform feeders (beware though that squirrels will love and go after the peanuts). You can also use alternative foods such as suet, fruits, mealworms, and nectar (great for hummingbirds). Adding habitat, food, water, and nest boxes will attract birds year-round. Feeders near larger trees and shrubs attract more visits to your feeders. Keep feeders free of debris and fill only with seeds birds will eat. Overcrowding at feeders can increase a bird’s stress level making them susceptible to disease. Choose feeders that maximize contact between birds and provide them with additional places to feed. Keep your feeding area clean of seed hulls and bird droppings by sweeping or vacuuming the ground below the feeders. You can also use no-waste seeds or seed mixes containing hulled seeds. Avoid feeders with sharp edges or points which can puncture the skin and cause bleeding or scratches that facilitate transmission of disease. CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS The best practice is to regularly clean your feeders approximately once a month with one part bleach to nine parts of water. Completely immerse feeders for at least 3 minutes and allow them to dry. Scrub bird baths and change the water several times a week to prevent mosquito reproduction and the spread of West Nile Virus. STORING BIRD SEED Store your bird food properly to ensure the seed is fresh. Store bird seed in areas that are cool and have low humidity. I keep my seeds in Menards sealed storage containers and store them in our indoor porch pantry which is cool year-round. HPAI (AVIAN BIRD FLU) This summer was a scary one for all bird watchers when we were advised to stop feeding the birds due to the Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (bird flu). The AVIAN flu is typically found in aquatic birds (swans, geese, ducks, etc.) who often don’t get sick but are sources for infection for domestic poultry (chickens and turkeys). The Raptor Center has been tracking the outbreak of AVIAN influenza in various bird species. Numbers were high for infection between March 28th through May 15th of this year. Although the number of cases has been on the decline, the risk from bird feeders is now low enough that we can use our feeders again. HPAI rarely infects humans, but depending on the virus strain it can have a severe impact on susceptible birds of many species. It’s easily transmitted in the feces and respiratory secretions of infected birds, especially during the migration season. The virus can also survive cold and freezing temperatures and will survive in aquatic environments. Henceforth, this is even more important for sanitation in our bird feeders. For more information on HPAI, refer to the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota, Raptor Center National Bird-Feeding Society DNR Bird Feeding Guide All photos courtesy of Duncraft.com except as noted Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), jdorganizer.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Jack-in-the-Pulpit is a shade requiring native plant best grown in rich, moist woods or marshes. Read about this unique and fascinating long-lived perennial here. It takes a special kind of plant to survive near our marsh. The ground ranges from damp to soggy, the shade is at best partial but mostly deep once you step a foot or two into the surrounding woods. Yet it is in this challenging environment that Jack in the Pulpit is most content. This unusual but long-lived native perennial is found in moist woodlands throughout most of the eastern half of the United States. It is prevalent throughout Minnesota and most of the Upper Midwest, hardy up through Zone 3. The flower is 3 to 4 inches tall and about 2 inches across. It is made up of a 2- to 3-inch-long club (the “Jack”, or spadix) sitting in a tubular base with a hood (the “pulpit”, or spathe). The spadix is light to reddish green. The spathe is light to purplish green and often dotted with white or purplish stripes. Plants are either male or female but you can’t tell without peering into the “pulpit”. It is there that either the staminate (female) or pistillate (male) organs are to be found. Speaking of gender, Jack in the Pulpit is rather fluid in that department. A given plant can change sex from year to year. Apparently, this is a function of how successful they were or were not in pollinating during the previous season. Once the plant decides if he/she is to be a boy or girl for the season its structure differentiates accordingly. Males tend to be smaller than females. They sprout from an underground corm which can send out runners producing additional plants. Consequently, Jack-in-the-Pulpits are usually found in colonies with a tall female plant surrounded by smaller male plants. The male plant has a hole in the bottom of its spathe (“pulpit”) which provides an easy exit for pollinating insects, usually small flies or gnats. In contrast, females have no such exit in their spathe, forcing a would-be pollinator to squirm around a bit to get out. This increases the likelihood of pollen being deposited on the staminate structures within the spathe. Pretty clever interior design! Jack in the Pulpit can be grown from seed but it takes four to five years before the plant flowers. So, if you are thinking of planting some, you might consider buying a corm instead of seed. Once mature, the female plant produces flowers in late spring to early summer. When fertilized smooth green berries are produced. In late summer they ripen to a deep red as the leaves wither. These berries are about a quarter inch in diameter appearing in ovoid shaped clusters which can be up to 2 inches long. Each berry contains one to seven small seeds. These prove tempting to many woodland birds, including wild turkeys, who eat the ripe berries and excrete the seeds. So, if you have a moist shaded spot in your garden and are looking for a suitable native perennial, the unusual but showy Jack in the Pulpit may just be your guy. Photo credits: Flickr.com (1, 2)

< Back Gai Lan: The Versatile Chinese Broccoli Expand your vegetable choices with Gai lan. Also known as Chinese broccoli, Gai lan is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. It is a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. Read this article to learn more about this healthy and flavorful vegetable. Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Gai lan, also known as Chinese broccoli, is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. Its scientific name is Brassica oleracea var. alboglabra , making it a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. What is Gai Lan! Gai lan is a cruciferous vegetable with thick, glossy, blue-green leaves, thick and juicy stems and small, yellow or white flower buds. It is also commonly known as Chinese broccoli, Chinese kale, gai lan, kie lan, jie lan, guy lon at Asian markets. Unlike the large head of common broccoli, gai lan is harvested as individual stems. Its flavor is a fascinating blend of bitter and sweet, with a satisfying crunch depending on harvest time. The entire plant, including the leaves, stems, and flower buds, is edible and highly nutritious. Gardening with Gai Lan! Similar to many of its relatives, gai lan prefers cooler growing conditions and will bolt during high heat conditions. Gai lan can be started inside and transplanted in spring for an early summer harvest. Gai lan can also be a succession crop with direct seed in late July harvesting in late September and October. The crop prefers full sun, fertile and well-drained soils. But note - before the florets arrive or before it blooms, please harvest the crop. The stems are more tender, crispy and not as fibrous when harvested before the florets arrive. Usual harvest is the full stem with the leaves and florets. Cooking with Gai Lan! Gai lan is an excellent source of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate, calcium, and iron. All parts of the vegetables from stem, leaves, and flowers are edible for dishes. It is a very versatile vegetable that can be stir fried, blanched, steamed and garnished in soup to name a few options. In a chinese restaurant and during dim sum, people may come across gai lan in a cantonese style where it is blanched and drizzled with oyster sauce. Clean gai lan like any other greens, removing the bottom portion of the stem that is appearing tough. Leverage a vegetable peeler for extra thick and tough skins at the bottom of the stem. For big stems, feel free to halve them before cooking. For leaves, discard any thick, wilted, and any leaves that are not dark green. For the buds, individuals can choose to keep or remove per personal preference. A few referenced recipes are below from the Tufts University: Cantonese Gai Lan Stir Fry Chinese Broccoli and Shiitake Rice Stir Fry Sauteed Chinese Broccoli with Garlic Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli If you haven’t already done so, expand your culinary horizons and try Gai lan for a tasty and healthy meal. Resource Links: Tuft University - basic information https://nesfp.nutrition.tufts.edu/world-peas-food-hub/world-peas-csa/produce-recipes/chinese-broccoli#:~:text=Chinese%20broccoli%20has%20broad%20blue,with%20a%20sometimes%20spicy%20flavor . Australia Horticulture: Asian Vegetables - basic information https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/commodity-growing-guides/asian-vegetables/g-l/gai-lan-embrassica-oleracea-var.-alboglabraem Singapore plant details - more information about Plant https://gardeningsg.nparks.gov.sg/page-index/edible-plants/kai-lan/?hl=en-US Mygardenlife: facts about growing the vegetable https://mygardenlife.com/plant-library/guy-lon-chinese-broccoli-brassica-oleracea-var-alboglabra Photo Credits: Vida Dam (1,2) www.artofit.org (3)

< Back Eating Jicama Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Read on to learn how to use this interesting vegetable Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. The taste of uncooked jicama can be described as a cross between a not-so-sweet apple and a less starchy white potato. It is in this raw state that its nutritional health value can best be appreciated. According to the Cleveland Clinic, one cup of raw jicama has 49 calories, 12 grams of carbohydrates, 0 grams of cholesterol, 0.1 grams of fat, 6.4 grams of fiber, 1 gram of protein, 5 milligrams of sodium, and 2.3 grams of sugar, along with numerous vitamins and minerals. Some of these yummy essential nutrients serve as antioxidants, and act as aids in heart and gut health. Additionally, studies conducted in mice have shown that eating jicama may play a part in increasing insulin sensitivity and decreasing blood sugar levels.1,2 What a helpful and healthful snack to have on hand! Jicama can be enjoyed cooked in your favorite stir fry or included on a list of eggroll ingredients. Raw jicama can be cut into matchsticks and served on a vegetable platter or salad. Cut up into chips, it makes a nice support for any healthy or not-quite-as-healthy dip. A favorite recipe using chopped jicama is one that I’ll call “Puerto Vallarta Salad.” It’s a basic cut fruit salad consisting of honeydew melon, mango, cantaloupe, watermelon, strawberries, grapes, and any other fruit you may have available, sprinkled with lime juice and Tajín Clásico. Tajín is a well-known chili and lime seasoning that can be found in major supermarkets and Hispanic grocery stores. Tajín brings a tart and salty picante flavor to the salad, while jicama provides its unmistakable crunch. Give jicama a try! Its fresh taste and watery crispness makes a healthful addition to almost any diet. References: J Clin Biochem Nutr 2016 Jan;58(1):56-63. doi: 10.3164/jcbn.15-59. Epub 2015 Nov 20. Prev Nutr Food Sci. 2015 Jun; 20(2): 88–93. Photo Credits: foodlorists.blogspot.com (1), public domain (2)

< Back Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Remember how the weather affected your garden last year? Dakota County received an extra 4” to 5” of rain and the average temperature during the 2024 gardening season compared with the average for the previous 25 years. The extra rainfall increased humidity and helped produce an abundance of powdery mildew in many Minnesota gardens. If your garden plants suffered from powdery mildew, you are not alone. Powdery mildew is one of the most prevalent crop diseases in the world,,3 affecting hundreds of types of plants including many common garden vegetables and flowers. This article explores what you can do to reduce the chances of last year’s powdery mildew returning to haunt your garden this year. What is powdery mildew? Powdery mildew is a fungal disease stemming from several different pathogens that vary by host plant. Plants with early infections of powdery mildew may have yellow spots, dark blotches, discoloring and lesions on leaves, usually on the upper surface of newer leaves and lower leaves. The disease then progresses to include a ghostly-white, powder-like substance (image 1) on leaves and stems. If left unchecked, powdery mildew will quickly spread to cover the plant and wither the leaves and stems. The pathogen can spread from 10% of the leaves to 70% of the leaves in a week2. A severe infection will cause leaves to drop off and can significantly reduce fruit and flower production. The white spores of powdery mildew eventually mature into brown and black pinhead-sized spheres caed cleistothecia or chasmothecia (image 2). Cleistothecia will survive the winter and release new powdery mildew spores in the spring. ,,10 Powdery mildew fungal spores infect only plants’ surface structures to take up nutrients and do not invade interior plant tissues. Therefore, it is rare that powdery mildew kills a plant but the plant may appear to be decimated. 2,10 Minnesota weather and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew requires humidity (but not necessarily the presence of water on the leaves) for spore germination. Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity will increase around plants when the ground around the plants is wet and ground moisture steams into the air. Variable relative humidity during the garden season will help promote powdery mildew. Relative humidity refers to the ratio of water vapor in the air versus the maximum water vapor possible in the air at a specific temperature. The maximum water vapor level is lower at lower temperatures. Therefore, for a fixed humidity level, relative humidity rises as the temperature falls. High relative humidity stimulates powdery mildew fungal reproduction while low relative humidity helps disperse fungal spores. Although powdery mildew requires humidity, the disease does not flourish in cool, rainy conditions.5 In fact, extended rainfall can help wash powdery mildew spores off leaves, inhibit germination and potentially kill powdery mildew spores. Powdery mildew spreads most rapidly in warm, cloudy12 weather (60o-80o F) and the spread decelerates in cool and hot weather.5 Note that leaf temperatures on sunny days are warmer than the surrounding air temperatures and leaf temperatures above 95o F are fatal to some (if not all) powdery mildews.2,4 All of the weather preferences mentioned above mean that powdery mildew thrives when days are warm and relatively dry (spreads spores) while nights are warm and humid (germinates spores).5 Unfortunately, this recipe aligns with Minnesota summer conditions making powdery mildew a frequent pathogen in our gardens. Prevent: what to do before a powdery mildew outbreak. While you cannot control the weather, you can minimize garden conditions that encourage powdery mildew. Prevention of powdery mildew should be the primary focus of gardeners because the disease is very difficult to eradicate once the disease is established in a garden.5 Frequently examine leaves and stems for a potential powdery mildew outbreak since early detection and action are critical to reducing the spread of the disease.5,12 Choose sunnier garden spots , when possible, for plant types that are more susceptible to powdery mildew since powdery mildew will grow more in shaded areas. Highly susceptible garden plants include apples, bee balm, begonias, columbine, cucumbers, grapes, lilacs, peas, peonies, phlox, potatoes, rhododendron, roses, rudbeckia, squash and zinnias.6,,,10,12 Increase airflow around plants to help reduce humidity and reduce moisture on plant leaves. Air flow will improve when you thin out plants, pull weeds, prune perennials, stake or trellis plants, and keep a space between plants and solid structures (e.g. keep plants 8”-12” from buildings).3,5,10,11 Avoid over-watering of plants , especially in areas with slow draining soil. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, and water early in the morning to give the plants time to dry out before night fall.3 Plant garden varietals resistant to powdery mildew .5,12 Garden catalogs, seed packets and garden stores should provide information on the disease-resistant characteristics of plants.10,11 In addition, Cornell University provides a database of disease-resistant vegetable varietals. For example, Cornell reports that Avalanche snow peas and Cascadia snap peas are resistant to powdery mildew. Cornell’s 2025 information is based on 2018-22 data and should be confirmed, if possible, with plant-specific information for the current growing season. powdery mildew on Ninebark Control: what to do during a powdery mildew outbreak. If you identify powdery mildew in your garden, you should follow all the powdery mildew prevention recommendations and also take the following actions to help control the outbreak. It is important to act quickly when you diagnose powdery mildew in the garden since the pathogen spreads so rapidly. Trim off infected plant leaves and stems and remove the debris from the garden. Consider removing the entire plant if the infection has progressed significantly or if nearby plants are at risk of becoming infected.5,11 Trim off leaves near the ground and newer leaves and stems of the infected plants. Newer leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Avoid fertilizing late in the season which encourages new plant growth.3,10 Sterilize tools that were used to trim plants infected with powdery mildew before using the tools on healthy plants. Tolerate small outbreaks of powdery mildew. The best management course may be tolerance of powdery mildew when the plant is beyond peak production and surrounding plants are not at risk. You may want to harvest full-grown pumpkins or squash in this situation to avoid powdery mildew attacking the fruit. Pumpkins and squash should last a couple of months if stored in a cool, dark spot after harvesting.11 Fungicides should only be used as a last resort since fungicides can harm both plants and insects.5 There are many fungicides that people have applied in attempts to control powdery mildew including milk, garlic, baking soda, neem oil, horticultural oils, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur and copper. Before choosing a fungicide, be sure to understand if the fungicide is a protectant (e.g. sulfur) or eradicant (e.g. oils) fungicide. Protectant fungicides only work if applied prior to a powdery mildew outbreak and usually require repeat applications. Eradicant fungicides work best if applied after a powdery mildew outbreak but before the outbreak becomes severe. Fungicides will not eliminate powdery mildew after the majority of leaves are infected.10 Be sure to follow any instructions provided on the fungicide packaging.3,6 There are a few specific situations where fungicides should be avoided even though powdery mildew is present in the garden. Fungicides should not be applied to late-season powdery mildew outbreaks when the autumnal leaves are close to dropping since the infection is not as harmful to the plant at that point.8 Fungicides should also not be applied to infected annual flowers or low-value perennial flowers since the fungicides can kill pollinators.10 Note that supporting research is very limited with regards to the efficacy of home remedies (e.g. milk, garlic, baking soda) for powdery mildew prevention or eradication. In addition, preventive and control activities should always be completed regardless of whether or not fungicides are applied. Fungicides are rarely necessary., Minimize: what to do after a powdery mildew outbreak. powdery mildew on peony Powdery mildew can survive winter on both live plants and plant debris. Therefore, powdery mildew is likely to recur once it is in your garden unless you take precautions to control the disease. Autumn and spring clean-ups are critical to breaking the cycle of last year’s powdery mildew outbreak. All annuals that were infected should be pulled and removed from the garden, preferably in autumn but spring cleaning is acceptable. Perennials should be pruned to remove infected plant material and to increase air flow. In addition, any plant debris in and around infected plants should be collected and removed from the garden. Do not till infected plant material into the ground as powdery mildew will continue to live in the plant material. Infected refuse should be burned or composted by a commercial composter. Home composting does not get hot enough for long enough to kill powdery mildew.3,5 Powdery mildew requires plant material to thrive. Therefore, you should not need to treat or remove wood chips or soil from powdery mildew areas. However, if the wood chips appear moldy after a powdery mildew outbreak, you may want to remove the wood chips as a precautionary measure. Because powdery mildew pathogens vary by host plant type, rotating plants (i.e. do not put the same plant type in the same space as last year) is key to minimizing the recurrence of powdery mildew. The following table provides groupings of common garden plants that are affected by the same specific powdery mildew pathogen2. If you had one of the plants shown in a group in your garden last year and those plants were infected by powdery mildew, you should avoid planting any of the plants in the same group in the same spot in your garden this year. Note that some plants are included in multiple groups indicating that those plants may be impacted by more than one powdery mildew pathogen. Powdery Mildew Pathogen Plants Impacted by Specific Pathogen2 Erysiphe cichoracearum Cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, potato, pumpkin, squash Erysiphe cruciferarum Cole crops (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower), radicchio, radishes, turnips Erysiphe lycopersici Tomatoes Erysiphe pisi Peas Erysiphe heraclei Carrots, parsley, parsnips Erysiphe polygoni Beets Leveillula taurica Artichoke, eggplant, peppers, tomatillos, tomatoes Sphaerotheca fuliginea Beans, black-eyed peas, cucurbits (pumpkins, gourds, squash), okra Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Michigan State University, http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late- (2), University of Minnesota (3), University of Minnesota, M. Grabowski (4) 1 National Centers for Environmental Information, May-September 2024 compared with May-September 1999-2023, http://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/monitoring/climate-at-a-glance/county/time-series/MN-037/tavg/5/9/1999-2024?base_prd=true&begbaseyear=1999&endbaseyear=2023 2 EOS (Earth Observing System) Data Analytics, “Powdery Mildew: Effective Prevention And Treatment”, http://eos.com/blog/powdery-mildew/#:~:text=Powdery%20mildew%20is%20among%20the,would%20kill%20most%20other%20fungi . 3 Colorado State University, “Powdery Mildews”, http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/powdery-mildews-2-902/ 4 Michigan State University, “Late-season control of powdery mildew in grapes”, Image 2 and content from http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late-season_control_of_powdery_mildew_in_grapes_focus_on_inoculum_managemen 5 Penn State, “Addressing Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew in the Home Garden”, http://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden#:~:text=In%20some%20plants%2C%20such%20as,oily%20spot%20on%20the%20leaves.&text=Powdery%20mildew%20looks%20like%20flour,across%20the%20top%20of%20leaves . 6 University of California, Davis, “Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals”, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/powdery-mildew-on-ornamentals/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0 7 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=2289318 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=228931 8 Iowa State University, “Powdery Mildew- Ornamental plants”, http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/powdery-mildew-ornamental-plants 9 Cornell University, “Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties”, http://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties 10 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in the flower garden”, http://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/powdery-mildew-flower-garden#:~:text=How%20to%20identify%20powdery%20mildew,to%20red%20around%20the%20infection . 11 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in flowers and vining vegetables”, http://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/powdery-mildew-flowers-and-vining-vegetables 12 Oklahoma State University, “Pumpkin and Squash Diseases”, http://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/pumpkin-and-squash-diseases.html