< Back A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Over the next three months we’ll take a look at several native understory trees that could well fit the bill for that yard accent piece. One excellent candidate is the Serviceberry . It actually is a group of about twenty different species grouped under the genius Amelanchier . As you might expect such a heterogeneous group goes by several names in addition to serviceberry, including shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear. They comprise a group of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family. The complexity of genus and variety arise from Serviceberry’s propensity to hybridize. So, much variation in size and coloration exists within the genus. That’s why you should read the descriptive information carefully for whatever variety you select, to make sure its characteristics fit your needs. The origin of the name is up for grabs. One story has it that Serviceberry started blooming in early spring at the same time that the valleys in the Appalachian Mountains became passable and circuit-riding preachers could again hold church services. Another maintains that the blooming of Serviceberry announced the time that the thawing ground could again be broken so as to allow graves to be dug and those Dear Departed that had been in “cold storage” for the winter could be interred with proper services. A less colorful, and probably more reliable, proposition has it that the genus was named after the European Sorbus , a genus also of the rose family with a number of similarities. Serviceberry's outstanding fall color Amelanchier is native to most of North America, being more prolific in the Eastern states and provinces. They can grow as either a shrub or tree ranging in height from 6 to 25 feet with similar widths. Depending on the variety, they are hardy from Zones 2 through 9. Blooming in early spring, most produce beautiful five-petal blossoms ranging from pink to white to yellow. Although the blooms usually last no more than one to two weeks, the plant produces vibrant blue/green foliage which turns a brilliant bronze in the fall. After blooming, clusters of berries form on mature plants, ripening to a deep red, then purple, during the summer. The silvery bark provides a striking accent in winter. Like most native perennials, Amelanchier is a great favorite of pollinators. Serviceberry will form multiple stems However, such a desirable plant is not without its needs. Both deer and rabbits like to browse most varieties, so you should consider placing protective guards around the young trees for the first couple of years. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and rusts . In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses, pollinators may spread fire blight. Serviceberries do well in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight) to part shade (2 to 6 hours). They do best in a moist, loamy, self drained soil that is a bit acidic. Some species do well in boggie areeas and can look great near ponds or streams. They look well in boarders to naturalized areas. Planting is done best in the fall or, preferably, in the spring. A thick mulch applied around the plant will help it establish itself. You’ll want to keep the mulch away from the bark itself, however. Water well and apply a bit of all –purpose fertilizer in the spring and you should be well on your way to having a dazzling year-round garden gem. Photo credits: Dan Mullen www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoak Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. If you would like an “Ask A Master Gardener” table at your event, please complete the Contact Us form on our website. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo credits: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Water Smarter, Not Harder In the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” it’s hard to believe that some areas of Minnesota may experience shortages of clean water by the end of this decade. Pollution caused by increased population - along with climate change - make water even more precious. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. This article explains how you can be help to protect our water supply. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener You may be wondering why we need to worry about water since we live in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” but even here, fresh, drinkable water is a precious commodity and requires energy to clean it. According to the Minnesota Technical Assistance Program , “the wastewater and water treatment sectors account for as much as 3% of electricity use in the U.S. nationwide.” Since it is always there, like a reliable friend, every time we turn on the faucet, it is easy to take this precious resource for granted. In times of drought, even here in Minnesota, the population can deplete aquifers faster than they can be replenished. It is time to appreciate water and learn how to use it more wisely and efficiently - water smarter. Established Lawn and Gardens Water your lawn deeply, but less often. Typical, healthy Kentucky bluegrass lawns, common in Minnesota, need about an inch of water each week, maybe less depending on your soil and conditions. If you have been quick to turn on your sprinkler, the roots of your grass may be very shallow. By letting the soil dry out down to about a 6-inch depth, you can encourage deeper root growth and a more drought tolerant lawn. As Michigan State University reminds us, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested so you can amend it if necessary. Also, check for compactness to make sure the water you are applying can penetrate the ground. By being familiar with what you have, you are better able to meet the needs of your particular lawn, enabling you to make adjustments to the soil so that your watering techniques can be most effective. If you have a built-in sprinkler system, you may be tempted to just set it and forget it, perhaps programmed to match your city’s watering restriction schedule. ( https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/water-saving-strategies-home-lawns .) Don’t fall into that category of un-smart waterers! First, set out containers in different locations in your yard to catch the water being supplied by your sprinkler system to educate yourself on how much water you are actually giving your grass. Second, water in the morning before the heat of the day so you don’t lose a lot of water to evaporation. Winds are usually calmer first thing in the morning as well, and morning watering gives the blades a chance to dry off throughout the day to avoid providing a breeding ground for diseases to develop under wet, dark conditions that could occur if you water at night. If you do have a sprinkler system, check into rebates that may be provided by your municipality to residents who install soil moisture sensors. The sensors can be placed into the ground and set to prevent the sprinkler from running if the soil is still damp down to 6 inches below the surface. One other thing you can do to minimize frequent watering of your lawn, is to let it grow to a height of at least 3 inches. The longer stems will shade the roots to prevent drying out too quickly, while at the same time hamper weed growth in the thick, healthy lawn. Auditing Sprinkler System Similar to your lawn, a morning drink of water for your flower and vegetable gardens is a good idea. Watering the plants at their bases is another way to prevent water from sitting on the leaves which could lead to a breeding ground for molds and diseases to take hold. Soaker hoses are ideal for the garden setting to keep water off the leaves. To go the extra mile to conserve water, capturing rainwater in a barrel and reusing it to water your gardens is another smart watering idea. New Lawn and Gardens If you are starting with a blank canvas, preparing to put in a new lawn or garden, you have the opportunity to make some intentional choices during the planning stages that will set you up for success as a smart waterer. As far as lawns goes, while Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice because it has the ability to go dormant during dry spells, do some research about other winter-hardy, drought-tolerant grasses that require little or no watering. You may find a low maintenance lawn that not only requires minimal watering, it may have the added benefit of supporting pollinators. In your gardens, group together plants that have similar watering needs so you can water efficiently only where needed. ( http://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SPU/EnvironmentConservation/SmartWatering.pdf .) When you are making your plant selections for your flower gardens, it is wise whenever possible to choose native plants. Native plants are much more likely to require less water. Remember, they were here before we were and survived without us watering them. Unfortunately, we cannot plant and just forget about them. Depending on soil and runoff conditions, native plants will still need some minimal attention. Want to boost your watering smarts I.Q. even higher? Whether your garden is established or new, applying mulch around your plants in late spring after the soil has warmed will prevent the soil from drying out too quickly. As an added bonus, it will free up your time from having to pull weeds as it acts as a weed barrier. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. If there are youngsters in your life, you can use resources like the Minnesota DNR where you can find fun games to help educate them so we can continue to have fresh, clean water for future generations. Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1,3) & University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Growing Healthy Tomatoes in Minnesota Tomatoes are a beloved staple of Minnesota summer gardens and there is nothing like biting into a juicy, fresh-picked tomato. As popular as they are, unfortunately, tomato plants are susceptible to diseases, disorders, and other issues. Here are some practices you can do to set your tomato plants up for success by reducing problems before they may begin and how to manage through the growing season. Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener Pick the Right Plant or Seed Consider growing a disease-resistant variety of tomato. Cornell University has an extensive list of disease-resistant varieties for cherry, grape, heirloom, plum, slicer, and rootstock tomatoes: Disease-resistant tomato varieties | Cornell Vegetables . When growing tomatoes from seed, choose a reputable supplier. Avoid using seeds saved from infected plants as pathogens can survive on the seed. Or if you are starting with transplants, inspect the plant thoroughly. Select healthy plants without any leaf spots or discoloration. Keep it Clean If equipment (like pots, tomato cages, trellis, stakes, and plant supports) has been used before, make sure it has been cleaned and sanitized before reusing. Start by removing any plant debris and soil. Then a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) can be used to sanitize. Ensure garden tools are also clean. Pick a New Neighborhood When planting your tomatoes, choose a location where no tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or other members of the tomato family have grown in 3-4 years. Pathogens can survive in the soil through winter and could infect the new plants if they are grown in the same spot without crop rotation. Provide Space for Air Flow Space tomatoes apart to provide good air flow. Some growers remove the lower leaves on the tomato plant to increase air circulation and this can also prevent pathogens that may be in the soil from splashing on the leaves. Staking or trellising tomatoes provides support to keep the plants from contacting the soil. Using mulch around the tomato plants is another strategy to reduce splashing on the leaves and provides the benefit of retaining soil moisture. Water and Fertilize Properly A healthy tomato plant will be more able to withstand disease and disorders so take care to water your plant properly and fertilize. Inconsistent watering can be stressful to the plant which can make them more susceptible to disease and exacerbate issues. When watering by hand, avoid overhead watering; instead, direct the water to the base of the plant. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are also ideal methods for watering tomatoes to provide water directly to the roots. Keep leaves dry as much as possible because moisture creates favorable conditions for diseases to spread quickly by bacteria and fungi spores. Water plants in the morning instead of evening to allow foliage to dry quickly if it does get wet. Practice Early Intervention Inspect your tomato plants each week as diseases can be easier to manage if they are identified and addressed early. If you notice spots on the tomato leaves, remove the infected leaves at the first signs of spots. If it has rained or leaves are wet, allow leaves to dry first before working with your plant as bacteria can easily spread on hands and tools. Sanitize pruning tools with 10% bleach solution after using on an infected plant. Up to a third of the leaves can be removed. Recognize Common Problems Common causes of leaf spots include Septoria leaf spot , early blight , and bacterial spot which can look very similar in their early stages. Septoria leaf spot looks like small spots less than ⅛” in diameter with a gray or tan center and dark border and is caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersic i . Lower leaves are infected first and then progresses. It can affect the leaves, petioles, and sepals of a plant. septoria leaf spot; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension Early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani . It appears as black and brown irregular spots often with a yellow edge on the leaves. The pathogen is most likely to spread in wet weather and high humidity. The spores can spread by wind, human contact, and equipment. tomato leaf with early blight; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension Bacterial spot looks like small, black round dots about 1mm diameter with a yellow border. The bacteria strains that cause this disease favor high humidity and high temperatures. The leaves, stems, and fruit can all be affected. tomato leaf with bacterial spot; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension If you notice something unusual with your tomato plant, this is a great resource: What's wrong with my plant? : Garden: University of Minnesota Extension . You can search by symptom to diagnose the issue and explore links with more information and recommendations for management. By implementing these best practices, providing consistent care, and proactive management, you can reduce disease pressure and enjoy a healthy tomato harvest this season. cherry tomatoes; Credit: Jessie Thompson References and for further reading : Tomato leaf spot diseases | UMN Extension Disease management for vegetable crops | UMN Extension Tomato disorders | UMN Extension Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension Managing Tomato Diseases, Disorders, and Pests | Yard and Garden Tomato Diseases and Disorders in the Home Garden Key to Common Problems of Tomatoes | University of Maryland Extension

< Back Jicama – Not Just in the South Anymore What starchy, tuberous vegetable has the refreshing crispness of a fresh apple, abundant nutrients and fiber, all with a deliciously low glycemic index? It’s the unassuming, turnip-shaped jicama (pronounced híh-ka-ma), sometimes called “Mexican potato” or “yam bean.” Read on to learn more about this interesting vegetable and a pleasant surprise for Minnesota gardeners. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener The jicama plant belongs to the genus Pachyrhizus and is a native of Central and South America. It has been a cultivated vegetable there and in southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The seeds, which range in color from pale to dark brown, have also been cultivated for their high content of rotenone, a toxin used as a pesticide, an insecticide, and a piscicide (fish killer). (Remember the 1950’s B-movie horror flick “Creature from the Black Lagoon”?) In fact, nearly all parts of the jicama plant - its bluish green vining foliage, beautiful bluish purple and white flowers, the subsequent lime green seed pods, and even the light brown peel of the tuber - are known to contain rotenone and should not be eaten. The only safely edible part is the white flesh of the tuber. From seed to harvest, the length of maturity for jicama is 4-9 months. After transplanting seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained loamy to sandy soil warmed to at least 70 degrees, the plant can be trained up a trellis and fed a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer monthly to keep it thriving. For the best root production, flowers should be removed at an early stage. As with nearly any root vegetable, it’s possible for the curious gardener to check on the size of the growing tubers by pulling soil away temporarily. They should be covered up though, to resume growth. Jicama tubers must be allowed to remain in the garden as long as possible, however, the plants will not tolerate frost. Record late season warmth has produced the largest and heaviest yields for commercially grown jicama. So, why feature a vegetable whose digs (pun intended) are in the subtropics? Why tempt Minnesotans with a food item they can find only in a grocery store and not in their own backyard gardens? Wonder no more - jicama seeds can now be found locally and grown locally! Pachyrhizus erosus is a cultivar that produces a smaller root but has the shortest maturity of approximately 150 days. By starting seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost and continuing with the above growing instructions, it is possible to produce jicama tubers of your very own. Photo Credits: Photo 1, www.ourfood.nl (All Creative Commons) Photo 2, Powo.science.kew.org (All Creative Commons)

< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back Disruption to Delight: Partnering with the City to Start a Bee Lawn Pat Peschman, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you interested in doing more to help our native pollinators? If so, consider turn all or part of your lawn into a bee lawn. A bee lawn can provide a recreational space for you and it can also provide much-needed food resources for bees and other beneficial pollinators. This article describes Master Gardener Pat Peschman’s experience with developing a bee lawn in her yard and includes some excellent advice. In 2024, my husband John and I received a dreaded letter announcing summer-long infrastructure and road maintenance that would impact our property. Initially, we only recognized the losses—our boulevard native garden had to move, our driveway would be torn up, and trees would be removed. However, my husband recognized an opportunity. We had discussed converting part of our lawn to a "bee lawn," to create habitat for pollinators. John developed a relationship with the project manager for the construction, and through this partnership, our new bee lawn became a reality. Benefits of a Bee Lawn A bee lawn is a combination of turf grass and flowering plants. It is low-growing, allowing it to replace a traditional lawn while maintaining a manicured appearance and tolerating some foot traffic. Bee lawns offer several advantages over turf lawns including: Pollinator Support: Flowering plants provide nectar and pollen throughout the growing season. Low Input: Requires less water, fertilizer, and herbicides. Low Maintenance: Requires less mowing. (My husband only mowed our bee lawn twice the first year!) While bee lawns should not be our only approach to feeding pollinators, they can be a piece of the puzzle. 1. Location and Site Prep Select a site with well-drained soil that receives full to part sun (at least 3-6 hours of direct sun per day). Avoid heavily trafficked areas to prevent soil compaction. The site will need to be prepared to receive and support the seed. The "Construction" Method: We had a unique advantage because the city tore up the lower third of our lawn. Instead of resodding, they collaborated with us to create spaces for the bee lawn, bringing in clean black dirt and even watering the area. The DIY Method: If you do not have construction assistance: Ideally, remove the lawn with a sod cutter or rototiller. If weed pressure is high, solarize the area by applying clear plastic for several weeks. At a minimum, cut existing lawn very short and rake heavily to expose the soil. layout of bee lawn 2. The Seed Mix Bee lawn seed is a combination of cool-season turf grass, particularly fine fescues, and flower seeds. Kentucky bluegrass will work as well but requires more input. Recommended flower species include: Dutch White Clover Self-heal Creeping Thyme Note: These mixes are commercially available at many garden centers or through companies that support or install bee lawns. Self-Heal and White Clover 3. Seeding Timeline Late Fall (Ideal): Also known as "dormant seeding" (early Nov to mid-Dec). Spread seed evenly over prepared soil, a seed spreader works well. Winter weather works the seed into the ground, and minimal watering is required. Spring: Wait until mid-May (after frost danger). Lightly rake the seed into the soil. This requires frequent watering (lightly, 2-3 times per day) until germination. In both seasons, apply a light straw cover so birds do not eat your seed. 4. Maintenance and Care Watering: Once established, only water during prolonged drought. Fertilizing: Dutch white clover fixes nitrogen in the soil, so fertilization is rarely needed. Mowing: Wait until the lawn is 5–6 inches high, avoid mowing when the lawn is flowering. Only remove the top one-third of the plants. Leave the clippings on the lawn. Mow in late fall to prep the lawn for winter. Weeding: some hand weeding may be required the first season bee lawn flowers and ruler measuring height A Buzzing Success Since establishing our bee lawn, countless individuals walking past our property have stopped to inquire about the lawn and offer compliments. We have definitely seen our lawn abuzz with pollinators. This year’s goal is to try to count and identify our visitors! References: Planting and Maintaining a Bee Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn#preparing-to-plant-2941611 Consider a Flowering Bee Lawn to Help Pollinators: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/consider-a-flowering-bee-lawn-to-help-pollinators What is a Bee Lawn: https://northerngardener.org/bee-lawn/ Photo Credits: Pat Peschman (1,3) University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back How to Care for Blueberry Bushes This Spring Do you love to eat blueberries? No blueberries are better than the ones you grow in your yard. If you are growing blueberry bushes in your yard or want to do so, read this article for some tips on what you can do this spring to help your blueberry bushes flourish. Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener I love to eat blueberries and also wanted to add some bushes to my yard for pollinators and privacy and beauty. So, adding a few blueberry bushes seemed to be a good option. We planted 5 blueberry bushes a couple of years ago and have moved them around the yard a couple of times, trying to find a location where they would thrive. In the process, I’ve learned several things that you can do for your blueberries in early spring before they’ve even budded that will help them thrive. Blueberries have very shallow roots, so remove all weeds and grasses that may have grown up around the bushes, then add a layer of mulch 3-4 inches thick. After that, look carefully at your bushes and prune out any dead or dying branches. Also prune out any conflicting growth; branches that are growing into the center or crossing over or rubbing against other branches. Another thing to do is to step back and look at the overall shape of your bush and prune so it has a balanced look on all sides. For smaller branches, use a bypass pruning shears or snips. For larger more mature bushes and branches, use a pruning saw. You should do this pruning while the bush is fully dormant, and no buds have formed. Blueberries need an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 -5.5. There are a couple of ways to amend the soil around your blueberry bushes. You can use elemental sulfur pellets available at Walmart, Fleet Farm, Ace Hardware and on Amazon. Wear gloves when you apply. Wait to apply until the soil temperature is at least 55 degrees. Sprinkle 2 handfuls in a ring around the plant, on top of the mulch and then lightly rub it into the mulch. You can also use a fertilizer that has a 5-3-3 balance or get a fertilizer like Plant Tone or Holly Tone. These are usually promoted as evergreen and azalea food (those plants also like a more acidic soil). Only fertilize once this year. Then you should add a layer of compost 2-3 inches thick in a 2-foot diameter ring around your bushes. Make sure your compost smells like grass, not garbage, to ensure that it is fully composted. Next add 3 inches of a natural mulch, not dyed. For example, bark mulch, woodchips, cedar or hay, or pine straw. Mini pine bark nuggets are mildly acidic and can help acidify your soil. Make an 18–24-inch ring around your bushes, 2-3inches deep. The last step is to wet down the entire area. Keep in mind that doing all these things, like adding compost and mulch, won’t last all year. Check your bushes throughout the growing season watching for decomposition, bare soil, and/or weeds starting to creep in. Pull the weeds, reapply a 2–3-inch layer of mulch as needed. Then look forward to a delicious blueberry harvest. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Joy Johnson (2-6)

< Back Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata): A Beauty with Many Names Jim Lakin, MD Master Gardener Are you looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden? Consider Spotted Horsemint. This native is valuable to pollinators as it attracts butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. It will look great in your garden as a border or mass planting. It seems like the prettier and more agreeable the plant the more names it collects. This is certainly true of Monarda punctata. She’s called Dotted or Spotted Horsemint, Dotted or Spotted Bee Balm or sometimes just Bee Balm to be confused with true Bee Balm ( Monarda fistulosa) that we talked about last month. I point this out not just to prove that Linnaeus was right to assign unpronounceable Latin names to everything that grows. To make certain you’re getting the right plant, be sure to select Monarda punctata when you are looking for spotted horsemint in your local nursery or seed catalogue. When you do get the real thing, you’ll be acquiring a hardy perennial herbaceous that is native to Eastern and Central North America all the way up to Zone 3a. This should tell you it’s a pretty tough customer in addition to being a showy addition to your summer garden. From July through September, it produces yellowish to purple-spotted 3-to-6-inch flowers in whorls on a densely packed elongated spike. Below the flowers, large, purplish leaf-like bracts set off the arrangement. Being a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, spotted horsemint puts out runners to form fairly large clumps if left to its own devices. It is not considered to be too aggressive, however. Plants tend to grow to about 1 to 2 feet, occasionally taller. You should space them out by 12 to 24 inches when planting. It is important to allow for air circulation among the plants as they are susceptible to powdery mildew and rust. However, this usually occurs late in the season after flowering. If it is a cosmetic problem, prune the affected stems. Spotted horsemint likes full sun but will put up with part shade (direct sunlight for 2-6 hours per day). It does best in loam, silt or sandy soil which can be an issue here in our clay-ridden Minnesota soil, although I’ve not found that to be too great a problem with Monarda . As you would expect, it is found in the wild in prairies, sandy areas, rocky woodlands and coastal plains. It will even self-seed in almost pure sand. The prairie strains at least are fairly drought resistant. Spotted horsemint is of substantial value to the native wildlife attracting a plethora of butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. Happily, it is not a valuable food source for deer or rabbits who tend to leave it alone unless things are getting desperate. So, if you are looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden consider spotted horsemint. As a border or a mass planting, it does great! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Plantjourneys.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Fruit Tree Pruning Advice I Could Have Used 30 Years Ago Sally McNamara, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you afraid to prune your fruit trees? Are you confused about when and where to cut branches? Master Gardener Sally McNamara learned some lessons the hard way about pruning fruit trees. She is happy to share the wisdom she has gathered over the years so you don’t have to make the same mistakes. Learn about how to protect your trees and prune them properly to keep them healthy and help you harvest the fruit easier. By the time I learned that apple trees, and fruit trees in general, take well to pruning, my apples and pears were well beyond reach. Fortunately, a family dog scratched all the bark off several of them resulting in death, so we were able to start over. (A chicken wire cylinder would have prevented that - so another lesson learned too late). On the new ones we learned that snow ABOVE the tree wrap makes rabbits happy and trees dead. Build a complete fence around very young trees early - those rabbits are active right after fall planting. Now, late February, early March, is the time to prune most trees, apples included. Spring sap will help heal the cuts and renovation invigorates the tree. Tree structure is visible without the impediment of leaves. If there is disease or death, marking those branches in the fall can be helpful for spring pruning. For apples trees which are intended for harvest, restraining them to reachable heights is an achievable goal, especially while they are young. While cutting the main leader is typically NOT what to do when pruning, it IS the solution to controlling heights in fruit trees. Keeping the branches reaching at an angle reaching outward and not so much up is the goal. When looking at where to cut on any tree, consider how to let light and air in and encourage growth out and up . Cut back to an, outward facing bud on the branch. Cut diagonally above the bud, not leaving an awkward stump to encourage entrance for insects and disease. When cutting major branches, for example dead ones or lower ones, to allow for maintenance underneath, cut back only to the branch collar leaving the collar materials to create a natural growth over the pruning wound. (Maintenance underneath an apple tree would include removing dropped apples and leaves to diminish the chance of disease and insects persisting to the next season.) Geriatric apple trees take well to restoration through dynamic pruning. Go for dead, damaged, diseased and crossing first. Then open up for light and air. This might be a multi-year process as removing more than 1/4 of the tree in any one season is discouraged for the health of the tree. Select upward angled branches - horizontal ones can be wet and vertical ones tend not to fruit. Never forget to take those before and after photos! Fruit pruning is an important topic and the U of M has some excellent resources. Visit the U of M Extension for three short but effective videos. Many late winter/early spring days call us to get outside and pruning is the perfect activity: it needs doing, it requires lots of motion and decisions and signals the start of a new season. Photo Credit: Dyck Arboretum (1), deepgreenpermaculture.com (2), North Dakota State University (3)