< Back Best Time to Prune Trees Faith Appelquist, Master Gardener Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. If it is between opening up a wound to heat or opening to the cold, opening the wound to the cold is best. Optimally, the perfect window would be past February and into March. The chance of frostbite on the sensitive cambium is less, and the sap is not rising. When certain species are trimmed during the growing season, such as American Elms or Oaks, pheromones (scents) are given off at the wound, attracting insects that can carry fungus on their bodies that can infect these trees. These trees are best pruned in the fall or early spring. Deadwood should be pruned anytime because it is a health and safety issue. Deadwood is food for decay organisms and the quicker it is removed from a tree the sooner it can start closing the wound and preventing the spread of decay. If the tree was planted for its spring flowers, such as magnolia, dogwood, crabapple, you will want to wait until after it has flowered to prune. Otherwise you prune flower buds off and reduce the abundance of flowers that spring. For certain species such as maples and birches, I would trim these in the summer to minimize sap oozing or ‘bleeding’. Pruning during full leaf is fine, but dormant season is probably still best for tree health.

< Back Seed Buying Do’s & Don’ts” Happy New Year! It’s time to pack up decorations, and pack-off the visiting relatives. Now is “me” time. Grab a “cuppa” your favorite beverage, snuggle into a throw, review your notes from last year’s growing season and begin perusing seed catalogs. This article provides suggestions about things to consider when purchasing seeds. BJ Hansell, Master Gardener Most every gardening-related resource online will advise you that the best time to order seeds is between the months of January and April. That is mostly because seed sellers publish their catalogs around the December holidays. Additionally, the orders should be arriving before planting time. Before completing a deep-dive into seed catalogs, checkout The Dakota County Seed Library that is maintained through a partnership between the Dakota County Library, Dakota County Library Foundation and the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners. It is located at the Farmington Library. If you are searching for a wonderful variety of seeds please avail yourself of this service. The collection includes Edibles, Flowers, Herbs and “Others.” Did I mention the seeds are FREE? FREE SEEDS!! Click on this link www.co.dakota.mn.us , enter “Seed Library” in the search box, then follow the resulting Seed Library link. There you can learn about the mission of the Seed Library, the list of current seed inventory and how to acquire seeds. Donors for this season include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and personal donations. The inventory will be updated during January & February 2024. We also operate an ongoing ‘ Seed Drive'. Everyone is encouraged to participate. We request heirloom varieties packaged for 2023 or later in the supplier’s original packet. Hybrid varieties and clearly labeled collected seeds may be added directly to one of our 'Share' drawers. This resource is especially useful if you do not want large quantities of particular seeds. As you begin collecting seeds, they should be stored in low-light and low-humidity environments. They should experience as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Photo storage boxes are a great example of one method for compact & organized seed storage. Here is a summary of 10 tips for buying seeds online and in catalogs. 1. Ask gardeners you trust to find out what companies they like and have had success with. A good source is a Dakota County Master Gardener. 2. Call the company and see how you like their responses to your questions. Do they have knowledgeable staff on hand to answer your gardening and planting questions? 3. How long have they been in business? Just because they’re new, doesn’t make them bad. But the companies that have been around a long time must be doing something right. 4. Are you looking for something specific? Some companies specialize in only certain plants while others are more generalist. If you’re looking for only certified organic, or heirloom for example, those companies are out there. Be aware there are plenty of specialty companies. 5. Don’t over buy . This is a common mistake. It is easy to be sucked into the pretty pictures and before you know it, you’ve purchased way more than you’ll have time to plant or that you’ll have room to grow. Partner with a fellow gardener to share large quantities at perhaps a better value. 6. How much are shipping costs? Sometimes it can be more than the seeds. Companies can vary a great deal here. Know the whole cost, not just the price of the seeds or plants. 7. Make sure the seeds you are buying are fresh and packaged for that year. Deeply discounted seeds may be out of date. Although still viable in many cases, they do begin to decline in their rate of germination success as they get older and/or stored improperly. Remember, you get what you pay for. 8. Know approximately how many seeds are in a pack. Some packs have more seeds than you’ll need, while others will surprise you at the small amount provided. It pays to inquire to save the disappointment of finding out you didn’t get enough. 9. Know if what you are ordering will grow in your zone and conditions. It is so easy to assume you’ll get results like those in the picture. In reality, without just the right conditions, your results could vary greatly. Take note of the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map . 10. Don’t be afraid to try new things. You won’t blow your life’s savings on an order of seeds so if you’re feeling lucky, go for it. Experimenting is one of the best parts of gardening. Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say. See you next month when another knowledgeable MG will share information on seed starting! Resource: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/10-tips-for-buying-seeds-online-and-in-catalogs/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gearacres.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Mary Barnridge, Master Gardener Intern Consider composting to reduce costs of fertilizer and mulch for your garden, improve the quality of sandy or compacted soil, and save time and money with fewer trips to the store. Composting is an environmentally friendly alternative. ? Do your plants start to yellow as summer wanes? This could be an indication of a nitrogen deficiency in the soil (e.g. fertilizer). Compost provides nourishment to plants throughout the growing season. ? Do you struggle with keeping soil from drying out extensively during hot and dry periods? Compost can be used to retain moisture and encourage plant growth – in both garden plots and patio pots. ? Do you have plants that are struggling to thrive because the soil is too compacted from excessive moisture, or foot traffic, or perhaps it is sandy and drains too quickly? Compost can be used as a soil amendment to enrich the soil and address compaction and drainage issues. Making Your Own Compost - The Basic How-Tos Build the Compost Structure Locate he compost structure taway from your home but close enough to the garden to which it will be applied. Keep it away from drying winds and ensure it has at least partial sunshine each day. There are several materials that can be used to create the compost site: Wire fencing, brick/cinder block, a metal cylinder or wood/wire structure. Layer in the Initial Materials to Begin the Compost Process Build your compost pile in layers. Begin with eight to ten inches of leaves, grass or plant trimmings. Water it to the point of being moist, but not soggy. Sprinkle the pile with one-third to one-half cup of nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area (a 5' x 5' bin). You may choose to add a one-inch layer of soil or completed compost over the fertilizer to increase the number of decomposing microbes in the pile. Repeat these layers until the pile reaches a height of five feet, watering each time you add new layers. If your pile contains large amounts of acidic materials such as pine needles or fruit wastes, you might add lime, but no more than one cup per 25 cubic feet of material. Feed the Compost Site Many organic materials can be used as compost: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Non-woody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds What you shouldn’t include: Do not compost diseased or insect-infested plants and weeds. Do not compost meat, bones, grease, whole eggs and dairy products However, Dakota County accepts many of these items in their food scrap/organics drop off sites. For more information, including sign up and collection locations visit the Dakota County drop off site webpage . Pet litter should not be used in your home compost and is not accepted through the Dakota County program. Dakota County Food Scrap Drop Off Site. Dakota County Food Scrap Bins. Maintenance Turn the pile once or twice a month to help speed decomposition. Water your compost pile periodically to keep it moist but not soggy. You may add a small amount of new material to be composted but if you have a lot of new material, it is better to start a second batch. Your compost pile will be ready in two to four months in the warm season, provided you have watered and turned it regularly. Unmaintained piles may take over a year to decompose sufficiently. When it’s ready to use, your compost pile will be about half its original height, and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Use it or Lose it Use it as mulch in annual or perennial garden or patio pots Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the base of plants. Add more layers over the initial layer throughout growing season. The mulch can also be worked into the soil at the end of the growing season for annual gardens. Use it as a soil amendment For sandy soil, add and incorporate 1 inch of compost in the top 6 inches of soil. For compacted, clay soil, add 2 inches of compost to the top 8 inches of soil. Repeat annually Use it in potting soil One-quarter to one-third of potting mix may be compost. For more information about composting visit this University of Minnesota Extension site . References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Mary Barnidge (2 and 3)

< Back Make a Cayenne Pepper Wreath for the Holidays Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s a great idea to grow vegetables in your garden to eat and share. But some vegetables lend themselves to other creative uses. Read this article to learn how to make a beautiful and useful holiday wreath with cayenne peppers. The Dakota County Master Gardeners participate in the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners’ annual vegetable seed trials. Master Gardeners receive selected vegetable seeds, plant them, grow them and record data about the growing experience. I participated in the project for the first time this year. It was a great learning experience. One of the seed types I chose to grow was cayenne peppers. I started them indoors in March and was blessed with about 60 plants that germinated and grew to transplanting size. I transplanted them outside in late May. In early September the peppers were at their peak of production. I harvested and taste tested all of the varieties and recorded my data for the seed trial project. But at the end of the season, I had a LOT of peppers. What was I to do with all of them? Well, I fermented 2 gallons of hot sauce and bottled it in cute little bottles and gave it away as Christmas gifts to all of my friends, family and co-workers. But I still had a lot of peppers left. Being the frugal person that I am, I can’t bear to waste anything, so I decided to make a wreath for the holidays. I spent 3 long evenings sewing peppers onto a straw wreath with florist’s wire. I pushed each piece of wire through the base of the stem of the pepper and then wrapped it around the straw wreathe to anchor it. Pepper after pepper, row after row. A pattern started to develop. I made a green ring by facing the stems toward each other. I tried to fill all the gaps. Some of the peppers were quite long and heavy. The wreathe as a whole ended up being quite heavy. I hung it in my kitchen on a secure hook, for about a month. The peppers began to dry and shrivel up. This changed the look of the wreath. When I needed a pepper for cooking, I could just snip one off. After about 3 months the peppers became so dry that the stems wouldn’t hold the florists wire any longer and they began to fall off. This isn’t a permanent wreath, but it was a fun accent for a few months. If you try this, make sure you wear gloves and don’t touch your face when handling the peppers. You can also make garlands or hanging ropes using onions and garlic. I did that years ago; again, they last for a while, but as they start to dry out, they fall apart. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are one of the few crops usually harvested in late fall – late September through late October, depending on your location. Flavor improves with cooler fall weather and they can stay in the garden as long as temperatures remain above 20°F. Read more about how to grow and enjoy this late season vegetable. Julie Harris, Master Gardener As a ‘winter” plant, seeds can be planted indoors in June. They can be hardened off when the seedlings have 3 or 4 leaves (about 3 weeks). They can be planted outdoors about a week later. Direct seeded plants need twice the time to mature as seeds started indoors. You can also plant transplants. Brussels sprouts belong to the Brassica family. They are of the same species as broccoli, cabbage, collard greens, kale, and kohlrabi. Plant brussels sprouts in areas where they, or plants in the same family, have not been planted recently. Brussels sprouts require well-drained but moist soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Plant seeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep every 18 inches; thinning to 1 after they have germinated. Transplanted plants should be placed 18 inches apart. Brussels sprouts must have good soil moisture to mature properly. The amount of water needed will depend on your soil (clay, sandy or loamy) but keep the soil moist. Brussels sprouts plants are tender and you may need to protect them from wind and insects with a lightweight but secure row cover. Mulching is encouraged. Brussels sprouts look like mini cabbages and grow on the stalk of a tall, leafy plant. The sprouts develop where each leaf joins the stem, beginning at the bottom and moving up. Cut off the top 1 or 2 inches of the plant when the lowest sprouts are 1 inch in diameter. This will cause the sprouts at the top to grow also. Harvest brussels sprouts by removing the leaves and cutting the plant off at the ground. Keep the stalks in a cool cellar and harvest the sprouts over a few weeks. They are generally harvested from the stalk when the sprout is 2 inches or less. Sprouts will also keep in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Brussels sprouts are high in nutrients, fiber and vitamins and have a number of health benefits. They are especially rich in vitamin K, which is necessary for blood clotting and bone health. They are also high in vitamin C, which helps promote iron absorption and helps with tissue repair and immune function. What type of Brussel Sprouts should you look for? In recent University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener vegetable trials, the top 3 rated varieties were: Gustus, Hestia, and Diablo. Brussels sprouts can be cooked in many ways but roasting is a common method. They can be frozen or pickled. Reference: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts Photo credits: www.pixels.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (3)

< Back Sunburned plants This article provides advice about how to recognize sunburned plants (sunscald), how to prevent it and what to do if your plants suffer from it. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Many plants in your vegetable garden can get sunburned! For instance, vegetables and fruit can burn if the canopy of leaves over them is removed or if they are placed outside without being hardened off. House plants will suffer if moved from a shady room to a sunnier room. Sunscald is a synonym of sunburned. How to recognize sunburn/scald Look for: sunken bleached spots on fruits and vegetables; brown areas on pome fruits such as apples; or whitish, yellowish or browned foliage. Some things to do to prevent sunburn or sunscald 1) Harden-off plants before moving them to a sunnier location. Over the course of about 5-10 days, let them have longer and longer exposure to the sun (and wind). This goes for houseplants moving to a sunnier room or outside, as well as seedlings and plants grown in a greenhouse. 2) Plant out on an overcast day, if possible. 3) Water thoroughly before and after planting out. 4) In the case of house plants, research ideal light conditions and then observe the new location for several days in advance of moving them. 5) Water in the morning, and water at the root instead of the foliage. Water on leaves can magnify the sun to cause damage. 6) Be careful to not remove foliage shading immature fruit/vegetables when harvesting; this will let the sun reach areas that aren’t used to it. 7) Research whether your fruit/vegetable will continue ripening after picking and possibly pick them a little early, then promptly get them into the shade or a cooler place. 8) Try a different variety if you notice lots of sunscald this year. 9) Mulch freshly planted starts to conserve moisture, and facilitate root growth. 10) Do not fertilize right away; a high nitrogen fertilizer will direct energy into the leaves before the roots can settle in. 11) Kaolin- based products such as Surround® can reduce the chances of sunburn. Read the label for proper application rates and personal protective equipment. The label for Surround WP® includes language about reducing sunburn damage, but Surround CF® doesn’t. This product covers the surface of the fruit with clay. The clay will reflect the sunlight and reduce the sunlight that reaches the fruit. Kaolin should be applied to the point of near-drip coverage. Be careful to leave enough foliage free of the kaolin for photosynthesis. Check label for organic certification. Read more about the use of Kaolin from Purdue University here: https://vegcropshotline.org/article/sunburn-on-vegetables/ 12) Prune carefully to leave enough foliage to shade the fruit/vegetable. Prune diseased foliage promptly. 13) Water deeply. 14) Sheer curtains in the window can help house plants deal with too much light. 15) Use a shade cloth or bamboo screen to throw some shade during the hottest part of the day, and growing season. Shade cloth differs in the amount of shade that is thrown. A 70% cloth will let 30% of the light through. There is no one, right, answer to which percentage your garden needs. I used an orange snow fence last summer. Some things you can do after a plant shows sunburn/sunscald 1) Move plants (if possible) to a less exposed site. 2) Cut fertilizer rates to half strength until new leaf growth shows. 3) For tomatoes, try to keep temperatures below 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Tomatoes are native to alpine regions in Central and South America. The hottest days of Minnesota’s growing season can be hard on tomatoes. Try a shade cloth or bamboo screen to keep the tomatoes cooler during the hottest parts of the day. 4) Remove damaged fruit or leaves so that the plant can use its energy to grow more fruits, vegetables or leaves. 5) Be patient. Planning to prevent sunburn/scald before it can happen will lead to a happy productive garden! Read more from UMN here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/gardens-get-sunburned-too Read more from Michigan State here: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/hot_and_sunny_days_promote_sunscald_in_peppers_and_other_vegetables Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1, 3), Dreamtime.com (2), istockphoto.com (4)

< Back Fall Lawn Care Margie Blare, Master Gardener Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Renovation Fall can be a great time to renovate your lawn. Seeding is easier because the seedlings won’t experience as much heat stress. Avoid adding additional nitrogen as it will over-stimulate the existing grass, thereby crowding out the new seedlings. Fine fescues will use less water, and tall fescues have longer roots. Figuring out why your lawn isn’t doing well before renovating it, will save you time and money. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability for more information. If you are laying down sod it, too, benefits from cooler temperatures in the fall and will require less water. Fertilization When temperatures are between 50 and 75 degrees your grass starts storing nutrients in its roots, to be used next spring, so late August through mid October is the optimal time to fertilize. Applying fertilizer in the spring leads to fast growth that suffers in the summer heat. Applying it after the ground is frozen creates run-off pollution and wastes your money. You should start with a soil test (go to: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ or e-mail soiltest@umn.edu ) before applying fertilizer. Weed Control Fall can also be a great time to kill those perennial broad-leaf weeds. They, too, are storing nutrients in their roots, so taking care of them in the fall eliminates them next spring. If using an herbicide (or fertilizer), always read ALL the instructions and follow recommendations for application rates, weather conditions and personal protection. Spot-treating may be the most economical and safest way to apply broad-leaf weed control products. Herbicide/fertilizer combination products can compromise both the fertilizer and the weed control effectiveness due to the ‘water-in’ vs. ‘leave-on-the-leaf” instructions. Crabgrass sprouts earlier in the year, so don’t use a crabgrass pre-emergent product in the fall. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar for more information. Mowing Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, sometime in October. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and remove no more than the top 1/3 of grass length in any one mowing. During warm weather 3-4” long grass keeps the ground moister. But if you leave it long over the winter it becomes a vole paradise! Leaving (small) grass clippings on your lawn returns their nitrogen to the lawn and mulching blades help keep the clippings small. Bee Lawns Bee populations have been declining in part due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Having flowering plants in a lawn will help bees, and you also increase your lawn’s resilience; it will have healthier soil and need less watering, mowing, and fertilizer. White clover, Creeping thyme, Self heal, and Ground plum are low-growing flowers that tolerate mowing down to 3 inches. Turf areas that have little foot traffic or that are primarily aesthetic are great locations. Examples are: steep slopes, right of ways or easements. Do not use broad-leaf weed control on Bee Lawns: it will kill all the flowers that the bees need. Spot treat very carefully. Go to: https://bluethumb.org/turf-alternatives/pollinator-lawn/ for more information. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back What’s the Buzz about Bee Lawns? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener You may have heard about bee lawns on the news or from a friend or at a county park. And, you may be wondering what that is and why you might want to plant one in your yard. Read this article about bee lawns to help you decide if planting one is right for you. Did you know that about 1/3 of the plant-based foods that humans eat are insect pollinated? But pollinators are in trouble due to habitat loss, pesticides and parasites. Butterflies, wasps, flies, soldier beetles, and moths are also in jeopardy. A pollinator lawn provides the high-quality nutrition that pollinators need to survive. A bee lawn can attract over 50 species of bee! A bee lawn integrates low-growing flowering perennials with grasses. They require fewer pesticides, less fertilizer, water and mowing than a traditional lawn. Grasses in bee lawns can include grasses already present in your lawn, but, adding fine fescues and Buffalo grass will reduce the number of mowings needed per year and make the lawn more drought tolerant. “Strong creeping red fescue,” “slender creeping red fescue,” “chewings fescue,” “hard fescue” and “sheep fescue” can be grown with other cool-season grasses in full sun to shaded areas. Another alternative to cool-season grasses are sedges. However, they don’t take as well to mowing. Pennsylvania sedge grows to about 6”. White clover springs to mind when thinking of bees, but there are several other good candidates that will spread out the flowering season from spring through fall. “Self-Heal” (Prunella) and “creeping thyme” and “birds foot trefoil” are non-natives that should not be planted near a wild area, but can be used in urban areas. “Ground plum,” “sweet white violets” and “common blue violets” are native alternatives. Bee lawns can be treated similarly to lightly-used traditional lawns. They can be mowed (or not) at 3” or higher and take light foot traffic. Some examples of good places to plant bee lawns are: boulevards, steep slopes, primarily aesthetic areas, rights of way and easements. There are at least two ways to plant bee lawns. One is to start with bare soil (be aware that this area will have a “seed bank” of weeds.) and the other is to overseed. In certain cases, plugs might be a better choice. Click here for information on planting a bee lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn And here are some additional sites to help you get started on your bee lawn: Here is a site to find bee lawn seed: https://turf.umn.edu/lawn-info/purchasing-seed/bee-lawn-seed Click here to get signage for your lawn: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2021-05/Lawns%20to%20Legumes%20yard%20signs_Final_Single_2020_edits_smalllink_new_0.pdf Click here to see the Lawn to Legumes site and apply for a grant to help with expenses: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/l2l Here is a webinar discussing the ins and outs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEiEoSC60Ss Your lawn can “Bee” the change! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,2,3), University of Minnesota Extension (4,5)

< Back Our State Soil: Lester If you have ever planted anything in the ground, or even just dug a hole, you know how our soil can vary depending on where we live. As a gardener, it is likely you have had your soil tested and amended your soil to provide optimal growing conditions for your plants. Here in Minnesota, mother nature amended some soil on a very large scale and deposited about 400,000 acres of it across 17 counties, perfect for growing crops like corn, soybeans, and alfalfa, right in the heart of our state. Click here to get the dirt on Lester, our state soil. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener It’s 2012, and Lester, named after Lester Prairie, Minnesota where it was first acknowledged, is about to be named the state soil of Minnesota. Sen. Rod Skoe, DFL-Clearbrook, summed it up with, “Maybe with this [vote], we’ll stop treating our soil like dirt.” After all, it’s easy to take for granted what’s under our feet. But without soil, clean water and air, we literally can’t live. And by the way, to get right down to the nitty gritty, soil and dirt are not the same thing. Dirt is just that, dirt. It’s what you get on your hands or wipe off the floor. Soil, on the other hand, is a living ecosystem. Let’s dig in and learn what is so special about Lester soil and how it came to be designated as the “Official Minnesota State Soil” by Minnesota Governor Mark Dayton on April 28, 2012. It all began about 10,000 years ago when glaciers were sliding south across Minnesota, depositing rocks, pebbles, sand, and other materials along the way. After the ice melted, plants began to grow on the material left behind by the glaciers. The cycle had begun. Plants would grow, die, and become organic matter to nourish new plants that would grow, die, and support the next generation of plants. Forests and prairies eventually grew up and spread across the land. The roots from grasses and trees worked their way through the rocks and pebbles further breaking them down while water flowed into the soil dissolving minerals that had been deposited during the glacial period. The decaying leaves and grass from the forests and prairies added to the layers, called horizons, and continued to increase the fertility of this nutrient rich soil. In addition, the glacial moraines where the soil formed provided well-drained conditions adding to the ideal properties of the soil. In 1985, the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists put together a task force to select a soil to represent Minnesota. In 1987 they voted to recommend Lester as the state soil because they recognized the significance of this resource. It took a while for Lester to gain its status as the official state soil however. There is always competition with other groups, often schoolchildren, pushing for designations of various state symbols. But finally, after the blueberry muffin became a symbol and the black bear didn’t, and just in time for the Smithsonian exhibit “Dig It!” to arrive in Minnesota, with Lester featured as the state soil, and coinciding with the University of Minnesota celebrating its 100-year anniversary, and 40 years of the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists – phew! - Lester became official. From the Smithsonian State Soils exhibit Having a state soil provides unique opportunities for education about this precious resource, especially since agriculture is extremely important to the Minnesota economy. As we have learned, soil is one of the basic necessities to support life and we need to care for it. We can’t control drought, but we can control how we plant, protect our resources, and share our knowledge. typical landscape where Lester soil is found Resources for this article: https://www.startribune.com/hot-dish-politics-new-state-soil-is-a-standout/150303445/ https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/mn-state-soil-booklet.pdf https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/young_naturalists/young-naturalists-article/soil/soil-health.pdf https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institute ( http://forces.si.edu/ ) (1), Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf (2), Smithsonian Institute ( https://forces.si.edu/SOILS/interactive/statesoils/html/State-Soils/Default.aspx?selection=Minnesota ) (3)

< Back Storing Root Vegetables Over the Winter Did you have a bumper crop of potatoes sweet potatoes, carrots, beets or turnips this year? You worked hard this year to produce that crop! Here are some helpful tips on how to store them to last for use all throughout winter and into spring. Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Potatoes Step 1: Dry them . After harvest, remove any damaged potatoes. Leave the rest outside to dry for a couple of hours. Don’t wash them but brush off excess dirt. Step 2: Cure them . Keep the potatoes in a dark, humid place for one to two weeks. These conditions help prevent rot. Indoors near the furnace works best. Spread out the potatoes in boxes and covered with cloth to enhance humidity. If you want to speed up this process, you can lay them out on racks or pallets, make a tent over them with light weight tarps or blankets and turn a box fan on under the tent. This will aid with drying them. Step 3: Choose a spot . For long-term cold storage, find a storage area that’s dry and dark, such as a basement, garage or shed with plenty of ventilation. A temperature of 35° to 40° is good. Step 4: Pack them . Pack the potatoes in a wooden crate, or something similar, with slatted sides and bottom. Alternate layers of newspaper and potatoes until the stack reaches 6 to 8 inches high. Make sure the newspaper covers the open slats so that light can’t get in. Step 5: Keep an eye on them . Check your potatoes monthly and remove any that are beginning to rot. One rotten spud will ruin the lot. Some varieties store better than others—russet potatoes are among the best. Sweet Potatoes and Yams Step 1: Time your harvest correctly . Wait for dry weather to dig up sweet potatoes and yams. Wet tubers attract insects, disease and mold. Wipe all the dirt off, but don’t get them wet. Step 2: Cure them . Lay the tubers in a warm location, similar to potato storage. Let them dry for 10 days to two weeks. Curing ensures excess moisture is drawn out, preventing mildew. Step 3: Pack them . Box up the tubers or wrap them in newspaper. Store them in a cool pantry or closet at 55° to 60°. If no cool place is available, pack them in layers of sand in barrels or crates. The sand cushions and keeps the tubers cool, but not cold enough to freeze. Place the containers in a moderately warm basement or garage. I have a barely heated garage. We keep it around 50 degrees or cooler, so that works well. Carrots, Beets, Turnips, Parsnips Step 1: Trim the tops . Cut off the leafy tops. Left on, they will draw moisture from the vegetable. Brush off loose dirt and remove any damaged ones. Step 2: Pack them . Place the root vegetables, unwashed, in boxes layered with slightly damp sand. I used Rubbermaid totes and buried the carrots, the tops that were exposed sprouted and grew very tall in the dark cool garage, but the carrots still tasted good. Step 3: Store them . Keep them in a cool place. Step 4: Keep an eye on them . Check regularly for spoilage and moisture, which causes rot, or dryness that could cause them to harden and split. Store your root vegetables correctly and you can enjoy your home-grown root vegetables all season! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), pxfuel.com (2)

< Back Creating a Butterfly Habitat Susan Ball, Dakota Master Gardener Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. Read this informative article about what you need to do to attract butterflies to your garden. Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. For example, asking, “what color flowers will attract butterflies?” is the wrong question to ask. Or rather, an incomplete question. Successful butterfly gardening requires creating “butterfly habitat,” which addresses each type of butterfly’s needs over its entire life cycle. The life cycle of the butterfly consists of four distinct stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis: sack-like covering), and adult. A successful butterfly garden must provide food and habitat for both adult butterflies and their caterpillars all year round. Though many butterflies will drink nectar from a variety of flowering plants, their caterpillars are often limited as to which plants they can feed on. These plants are called “host plants”. I n order to create a successful butterfly habitat you must have: 1. A combination of adult nectar sources and larval host plants . Your goal is to attract the maximum variety of species to remain in your yard, reproduce and build populations, not to pass through for a snack on their way to more attractive living quarters. While butterflies need both host and nectar plants to complete their life cycles, an emphasis on host plants encourages butterflies to breed within given areas. Each kind of butterfly uses a limited range of host plants, but many host plants also provide nectar; in other words, a “twofer;” consider these plants first. Milkweed is a good example of a twofer: a host plant and nectar provider for Monarch butterflies. 2. Native species and their favorite landscapes . Most larval host plants are natives. Click here for a list of butterflies and their host plants from the University of Minnesota Extension. Remember that larval host plants are meant to be eaten . Damaged leaves or even plants that are completely defoliated is a good thing. It means your butterfly garden has attracted butterflies that have reproduced! And only a few plants are eaten to the ground by butterfly larvae; examples being, milkweed, parsley, dill, and fennel. These plants, however, often rebound several times before they must be replaced. On other hosts, like trees, most shrubs and grasses, feeding damage is barely noticeable, and what there is encourages healthy, new plant growth. NOTE: many nurseries use pesticides and these chemicals can be deadly to butterfly larvae. When buying host plants always ask if they have been treated with pesticides. Similarly, be very careful when using pesticides in your garden. If you must use chemicals, use them sparingly, and only treat the infected plant. 3. Shelter and a variety of feeding opportunities . Plants with different heights and growth habits appeal to a greater variety of butterflies by providing more opportunities for feeding and shelter. For example, when monarch and queen butterflies are looking for nectar, they are generally attracted to taller flowers. And don’t forget trees: wild cherry (which hosts tiger swallowtail ) and willow (which hosts Viceroy - a monarch look-alike) provides both food and shelter . In addition, wild cherry and willow also produce nectar that attracts many other kinds of butterflies. Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly 4. Plants which have different blooming times . These plants provide food for butterflies during periods of low natural availability. Flowers, like asters, which are late season bloomers, are important sources of nectar for butterflies (as well as bees and other pollinators) in the fall. Asters 5. Plants with different flower colors and different flower shapes . Different butterfly species are attracted to different flower colors : yellow, orange, white, and blue flowers as well as reds, pinks, and purples, but the shape of the flower is important too. The feeding behavior and length of the proboscis (aka: butterfly tongue) dictate which flowers butterflies visit. Long-tubed flowers are more accessible to species with long probosces whereas many composites (daisy-like flowers, like black-eyed Susans and Stokes’ aster) provide a feeding platform and easy nectar accessibility for smaller species. As a rule, small butterflies feed on nectar from small flowers and large butterflies feed on nectar from larger ones. Avoid double flowers. They are usually bred for showiness, not nectar production. 6. Plant in shade as well as full sun . Shade appeals to more butterfly species, especially forest species butterflies. The Giant Swallowtail and the Mustard White are Minnesota butterflies that prefer a shady woodland habitat. A rare shade-loving species, the Taiga Alpine , occurs in northern Minnesota exclusively, when in the lower 48 states. Mustard White Butterfly (first of its kind documented at Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, 2021 7. Group plantings of flowers . Group plantings of flowers are more apparent in the landscape, not only to us but to butterflies as well, allowing larvae to locate additional food in the event of shortage. 8. Habitat and food for “no-flower” butterflies . There are butterflies that rarely visit flowers, like the Question Mark . These butterflies hang around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses - which you may or may not want to supply - or tree sap. If you have fruit trees, you can leave fallen fruit, like apples, on the ground. Then there are also the “ puddle club ” butterflies - mostly male. They gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. You’ll attract these butterflies if you live on or near water, or you can create your own “puddles” to attract them. 9. Shelter for “overwintering” butterflies . There are about nine butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota, among them the Question Mark. Although many of them “hibernate”, only coming out during the winter if there is an exceptionally warm day, these butterflies need shelter during the winter months to survive our climate. Adjust your fall cleanup to provide habitat for them. Don’t mulch everything. Leaf litter from large plants, like hostas, for example, provides shelter for butterflies and other pollinators. Also, don’t cut your spent flowers and plants down to the ground. Leaving 18” to 20” worth of stems and leaves also provides shelter for these overwintering butterflies. In addition, you can take fallen sticks and stems, bundle them together and put them in an out-of-the-way place in your yard to provide more habitat. To sum up: Be less tidy! Provide a year-round combination of food and shelter for butterflies. Then, sit back this summer on your lounger, a glass of lemonade or ice tea by your side, and enjoy your successful butterfly garden! REFERENCES “Butterfly Gardens”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html “Butterfly, Bee and Moth Garden Designs”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/designs.html Krischik, Vera, “Creating a Butterfly Garden”, https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/creating-butterfly-garden . Contains a list of butterflies and their host plants Malone, Kathy, IFAS Publication “COMMUNITY BUTTERFLYSCAPING: HOW TO MOVE BEYOND BUTTERFLY GARDENING TO CREATE A LARGE-SCALE BUTTERFLY HABITAT” (contains tables listing flowers and hosts for specific butterflies), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP420 Reeves, Walter, “Attract Butterflies to Your Garden by Building a Butterfly Puddle”, You Tube, U of GA Extension: https://extension.uga.edu/ Stokes, Donald and Llillian, The Butterfly Book: An Easy Guide to Butterfly Gardening, Identification, and Behavior, Little, Brown and Co., New York, NY 1991. Weisenhorn, Julie, “UMN Extension Fall Cleanup for Pollinators” (video), https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators “Rare Species”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/rsg/profile.html?action=elementDetail&selectedElement=IILEPN8140#:~:text=The taiga alpine is listed, clearly a long-term threat. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (2), www.publicdomainpictures.net (3,4), https://arb.umn.edu/blog/2021/03/30/meet-the-mustard-white-butterfly (5)