< Back Pickling From Garden Glut to Gut Garden Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern You know that feeling. It started in the springtime with two innocent-looking seedlings. But now it's August and your kitchen has the look of a staging ground for an Audrey's botanical invasion. You’ve given cucumbers to your neighbors, your mail carrier, and possibly a confused delivery driver. And yet, the vines keep producing. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. Read on to learn all about the how-to’s and the benefits of pickling your harvest. Assorted pickle pile. Photo Credit pickpik.com Note with any kitchen project, the freshness of the ingredients greatly impacts the final product. Don’t let picked vegetables sit in the fridge for days before processing them. Pick your pail of pickles on the day you plan to pickle. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. What Is Pickling? To pickle is actually one of the oldest methods of food preservation, knowledge of which goes back to the early Greek and Chinese cultures. At its root, pickling is the process of preserving a fruit or vegetable in order to extend its shelf life through the use of acids such as vinegar or a brine. Or put another way, through fermentation or non-fermentation methods. Method 1: Quick (unfermented) pickles are made in one or two days by adding acid in the form of vinegar. It is critical to add enough vinegar to prevent bacterial growth. Note: with this method, we are not actually canning the pickles in a water bath. While many people think of water bath canning as the pickling process, the truth is that is an additional step only done to preserve the food further and is not a requirement to produce pickles. Method 1: The Quick Pickle Effort level - My six-year-old can do it, literally Shelf Life - Maybe 1-2 months (in the fridge) Key Factor - Hot vinegar brine; instant gratification. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Water, vinegar, salt, spices and cucumbers from Costco meet the jar. So easy, my six-year-old did it. Note: only a third of the cucumbers were eaten in the making of. I consider that a win. Method 2: Brined (fermented) pickles . (4) These require several weeks of “curing” at room temperature. During this period, colors and flavors change. Acid is produced as lactic acid bacteria grow. Again, no canning in a water bath as that would kill the beneficial bacteria. Lactic acid is what we use to prevent growth of botulism. Method 2: Lacto-Fermented Effort level - Back to my six-year-old child labor. Self-Life - Months (Fridge). Probably all winter. Key Factor - Healthy gut bacteria while balancing effort with shelf life. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis The 5% brine rule (3). Photo Credit: Scott Soltis To keep the "bad" bacteria out while letting the "good" Lactobacillus thrive, you need a specific salinity. A common standard is a 5% brine solution. You can calculate the required salt (S) based on the water weight (W) using: S=W×0.05 For long-term shelf stability (especially if canning), we aim for an acidity level of pH<4.6. This environment is too acidic for harmful pathogens to survive. (9) To Pickle or Not to Pickle. Was there ever a Question. Obviously, in today’s modern kitchen, food preservation is mainly done through the refrigerator but that doesn’t negate the benefits of still preserving food through older known methods such as pickling. Other reasons include: A Flavor Transformation Through the process of either fermentation or acid immersion, large, bland starch and protein molecules are broken down. They transition into simple sugars and amino acids. This is the secret behind that elusive "umami" hit—that savory, mouth-watering quality that makes a pickle more than just a sour cucumber. The Gut Health Factor If you choose the traditional fermentation route, you aren't just making a snack; you’re cultivating a colony. Traditional pickling creates probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support your microbiome. It’s one of the few instances where "controlled spoilage" actually makes you healthier. Sense of Accomplishment A lot of people like to do something because it's fun and fulfilling. Yes, we can simply hop on over to the grocery store; but like the home garden itself, there is still something to be said for doing it yourself. Before you try pickling at home, get educated You don’t have to utilize the water bath process. Quick refrigerator pickles are probably some of the easiest and most often used methods to get pickles quickly. Take a container or jar, cut up your veggies, pour in the vinegar-water brine, add your herbs and spices, put it in the refrigerator overnight, and enjoy the next day. Once you master the basic cucumber, the entire garden becomes your playground. Try pickling red onions for tacos, green beans (Dilly Beans) for Bloody Marys, or shaved carrots for salads. Other common pickled vegetables include: Sauerkraut / Carrots / Okra / Asparagus / Beets / Peppers / Whole Mushrooms / Summer squash / Turnips / You get the idea Photo Credit: https://docs.midjourney.com/hc/en-us/articles/33329261836941-Getting-Started-Guide ] Pickling vegetables can be both tasty and colorful. Pickling isn't just another chore on your gardening to-do list; it’s a way to transform a seasonal surplus into a year-round gourmet pantry. It’s about making your hard work "obviously delicious" with minimal effort. By learning this timeless technique, you’ll waste less, eat better, and enjoy more flavorful meals every day. So why wait? Addendum: The "Quick Pickle" Refrigerator Method If you want pickles today (or at least by tomorrow), this is your golden ticket. The refrigerator method uses a hot vinegar brine to rapidly infuse the vegetables with flavor. The 3-2-1 Formula (5): 3 Parts Water 2 Parts Vinegar (White or Apple Cider will do) 1 part Sugar (Adjustable based on your sweet tooth) Extra - Add spice or other flavor such as garlic and onion as your taste prefers. Add a pinch of salt and your vibe seasonings, think smashed garlic cloves, fresh dill heads, peppercorns, or even a dried chili for some heat. The Process: Bring your brine to a simmer, pour it over your sliced cucumbers in a jar, and close the lid. Rule: Let it marinate in the fridge for at least a week. While they look ready in an hour, patience is the only truly "hard" part of this process. References: Pickpik.com . Assorted Pickle Pile https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/ferment/general-information-on-fermenting/general-information-on-fermenting/ https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/pickle/general-information-pickling/general-information-on-pickling/ https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pnw-355-pickling-vegetables https://extension.oregonstate.edu/food/preservation https://www.almanac.com/how-to-pickle AI generated An Assorted pickled vegetables in glass jars lined up on a wooden shelf against a dark background https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)

< Back July in Your Garden - Enjoy and Maintain Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best. This article points out a few things to be mindful of this month. It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best, there are a few things of which we should be mindful this month. Let’s take a look. Tidy up your perennial and annual flowers . Deadhead faded flowers by pruning the stem to slightly above the first set of leaves. Although, most Minnesota perennials don’t rebloom because of our short growing season, there are some plants that will provide another show after deadheading or pruning (catmint, daylilies, coneflower, salvia, spirea). However, don’t expect quite the vigorous show as the first bloom. Most annuals will be refreshed by a careful pruning. Photo credit: Northern Gardener, Minnesota Horticultural Society If you haven’t already done so, prune spring-flowering shrubs. For more on pruning spring-flowering shrubs, read this article . Some perennials, like irises, should be divided in late July to early August. Want more information about dividing irises? Here is a great article . If you put your houseplants outside this summer, check on them regularly to make sure they are managing the outside weather. Fertilize them more often when they are growing and move them into shade or inside if they appear stressed. Heat - too hot to grow . While we may enjoy the heat, some of your plants may not. Some vegetables slow their growth during the hot days of summer. During days when the weather reaches sustained temperatures of 80s and 90s, vegetables like cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes or beans may not ripen. Also, wait to prune your plants, as pruning is another stressor. Apparently, bees also don’t like it hot. When the temperatures reach 90 degrees, many bees slow down and pollinate less. Not much can be done but waiting out the hot temperatures. We know that the weather will eventually cool down. Photo credit: Julie Harris Keep weeding during hot weather as weeds compete for water with your precious plants. Water wisely . You planted the plants and probably spent some money to make your garden look great. Don’t let the plants wither away in the hot July sun. Note that the average garden needs about an inch of rain per week. During extreme heat, some plants, especially container plants, may need watering more often. But water wisely. Make sure you know your city’s watering restrictions, as many limit watering to certain days of the week. Water plants in the morning as this allows the plants and soil to absorb more water; the heat of the day causes more evaporation. Drip irrigation is preferred because water is deposited directly into the soil. If watering by hand, water as close to the surface as possible. Photo credit: Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension Deal with insects and diseases wisely . Get to know your beneficial insects from your destructive ones ( read this article ). One of the most despised destructive insects that appears this time of year is the Japanese beetle . The University of Minnesota suggests not killing Japanese beetles immediately after they emerge. Why? Winsome flies lay their eggs on the beetles and kill them. They appear as large white spots on the beetles’ bodies. ( For more on Japanese Beetles .) Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Squash bugs and squash borer appear this time of year. Squash bugs lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves. Squash vine borer lay their eggs at the base of plants. Watch your tomatoes for early blight or blossom end rot . Cucumbers are susceptible to powdery mildew as are other plants. Some of your vegetables or herbs may be ready for harvesting (ex., basil, cilantro, dill). Pinch off the top leaves to encourage more growth and for eating, of course! Take care of your damaged trees and shrubs . Summer storms can wreak havoc with our trees and shrubs. When trees have ragged wounds, they do not heal well. Cut off smaller branches with a sharp pruner. Call an arborist if you have extensive damage to your trees. Lawn care . Grass also requires about an inch of water a month. Generally, lawns benefit from more deep watering less often. Read this article for information about watering lawns. Hold off on spraying herbicides in the lawn until fall when temperatures are cooler and the roots start to pull the energy into their crowns. Most herbicides are less effective, anyway, when applied in very hot weather. Manually pull weeds during this time. Likewise, don’t fertilize during hot weather as that can damage your grass. Increase the mowing height by an inch during mid-summer to improve the lawn's ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. Planting Fall Vegetables . You can start to direct-sow fall vegetables when your earlier vegetables have flowered (bolted). Cabbage, carrots, beets, and broccoli are good fall crops. Look at this article for ideas about vegetables to plant now for a fall harvest. Alternatively, you can plant a cover crop for your vegetable garden. This will improve your soil and give you a break from growing and harvesting. Performing garden maintenance may not be as fun as planting and harvesting; but engaging in a few healthy practices in mid-summer will allow you to enjoy a healthy and beautiful garden for the entire growing season. It’s worth it! Photo credit: www.backyardfocus.com References: https://extension.umn.edu/news/july-garden-checklist https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/ag-hub/ag-topics/crop-production/diseases-insects-and-weeds/weeds/herbicides-and-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-excessive-heat-affects-vegetable-garden https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/mowing-practices-healthy-lawns https://northerngardener.org/july-garden-chores/

< Back Make Chile Rellenos from Your Poblano Peppers Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Joy Johnson planted a variety pack of pepper seeds that produced an abundance of peppers. In this article, she provides a recipe for using the Poblano Peppers to make Chile Rellenos. She promises that the making is easy and the result is delicious! Chile Rellenos Ingredients: 6 fresh poblano or Anaheim chile peppers 1 - 8 oz. package queso asadero (white Mexican cheese), cut into ¾-inch thick strips 2 large eggs, separated 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup all -purpose flour 1 cup vegetable shortening or canola oil for frying Process: Preheat the oven broiler; set the oven rack about 6 inches below the heat source. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place peppers onto the prepared baking sheet and broil until skins are blackened and blistered, about 10 minutes. Use tongs to rotate peppers often to char all sides. Place blackened peppers into a bowl and tightly seal with plastic wrap. Allow peppers to steam as they cool, about 15 minutes. Remove skin from peppers, then cut a slit down the long side of each one to remove seeds and core. Rinse peppers inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Stuff peppers with strips of cheese. Whisk egg yolks and baking powder in a bowl until combined. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold beaten whites into the yolk mixture. Place flour into a separate shallow bowl. Melt vegetable shortening in a skillet over medium heat. Roll each stuffed pepper in flour, tap off excess flour, and dip into the egg mixture to coat both sides. Gently lay coated peppers into the hot shortening. Fry peppers until lightly golden brown and cheese has melted, about 5 minutes per side. Eat and enjoy! Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Snack on Celery Kristen Andrews, Master Gardener Intern Celery, while a delicious treat, can be a challenge for the home gardener to grow. Learn how you can start your own celery plants indoors and have a harvest of this versatile vegetable, early or late, into the growing season! Ants on a log I have fond memories of snack time as a child, munching on “ants on a log.” Those familiar with the treat know there are three main components: the ants (chocolate chips and/or raisins), the glue to stick the ants on the log (usually peanut butter), and the log (a crisp piece of celery). The star of the snack, a crisp piece of celery, has been produced commercially since the early 1800s. Celery is part of the Apiaceae (or carrot) family. These plants are known for their hollow stems, taproots, and flat-topped flower clusters. Other familiar plants in this family are dill, fennel, and cumin. Growing celery at home may be difficult, but the harvest serves as an excellent reward for anyone up for the challenge. There are two main types of celery: Trenching and Self-blanching. Trenching celery requires extra care to ensure the stalks are protected, whereas self-blanching does not. The taste of self-blanching celery may be a little more muted, but is generally easier to grow. Two recommended self-blanching varieties are Utah and Pascal. For the home grower, celery does best when started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the last spring frost date, for a spring crop. A fall crop can also be started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the first fall frost date. Transplant outdoors once temperatures are above 50F during the day, and no lower than 40F during the night. Celery's three main needs are: cool weather, water, and rich, organic matter soil. Celery Celery can be harvested by removing the outer stalk layer leaving the rest of the plant to continue growth. The plant can also be left to grow up to 3-inches in diameter and then all the stalks harvested as a whole. Cool temperatures and water will continue the growth of the plant. The rooty, stalk structured plant with leafy greens has many uses. The stalks are regularly consumed and used in everything from stir-fry to broth, or simply consumed raw. Less popular, but still edible, are the leafy greens on the top of the plant. Those can be added to salads or minced and used as a seasoning. If looking for new and innovative celery uses, Taste of Home has 28 Non-Boring Ways to Use Celery . Sources: https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/celery-in-the-garden https://www.almanac.com/plant/celery https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/vegetables https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Apiaceae-2038061 https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/non-boring-celery-recipes/ Photo Credit: Brian Talbot, Flickr (1) & Buuz, Wikimedia (2)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Taking on Ticks Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener You’ve turned in after a productive day of gardening. Beginning to doze off, you feel something ever so slightly brushing against your thigh. You reach and feel a small hard object crawling up your leg. Lights on. It’s a tic, ambling along, looking for a nice warm place to suck your blood! It is tick season and there is good reason to be wary. You’ve turned in after a productive day of gardening. Beginning to doze off, you feel something ever so slightly brushing against your thigh. You reach and feel a small hard object crawling up your leg. Lights on. It’s a tick, ambling along looking for a nice warm place to suck your blood! Enough Stephen King. Ticks are gross but sometimes unavoidable if you are a gardener. Yet in addition to being unpleasant they can also be dangerous. The Centers for Disease Control list at least sixteen serious infectious diseases that can be transmitted by ticks in the United States, including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. So what are these guys and how do they manage to get on your skin? Ticks are arachnids, insects that are second cousins to spiders, members of the Ixodida family. Like many insects they go through egg, larva, nymph and adult stages. At each stage of life they need a blood meal to survive. Most aren’t picky as to whose blood they drink, selecting mammal, bird, reptile or amphibian hosts as they pass through their life stages. Also they aren’t picky as to what’s in the blood they drink, ingesting whatever assorted bacteria or viruses the host happens to have. Ticks can’t jump or fly but they can wait patiently on a blade of grass or leaf, latching on to whomever happens to be passing by. Once on board, the tick settles down on a promising spot and inserts a feeding tube. In the process it often secretes saliva which can contain whatever infection the tick has picked up from its previous host. If all goes well (for the tick) it will feed for several days and then drop off to begin its next life stage and find its next victim. The deer tick (blacklegged tick) below is much smaller than the wood tick (American dog tick) above and to the right. The lone star tick on the upper right is occasionally seen in Minnesota. Although there are about a dozen species of ticks in Minnesota, two types commonly spread disease. They are the deer tick or black legged tick and the wood tick or American dog tick. Of the two the deer tick is by far the most common disease spreader, transmitting Lyme disease among other things. Wood ticks may spread Rocky Mountain spotted fever and tularemia but most bites thankfully are unpleasant but harmless. There are a number of things you can do to lessen the chance of picking up one of these fellows. First of all avoid wooded and brushy areas with high grass or leaf litter. Walk in the center of trails when you are out in the woods. If you can’t avoid these high exposure areas consider treating clothing and gear with 0.5% permethrin. It is available as a spray or you can even buy pretreated clothing and gear. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests use of insect repellants such as DEET, picaridin, IR3535, Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE), para-menthane-diol (PMD), or 2-undecanone. They advise against using OLE or PMD on children less than three years old. After a day out in the garden or the woods, it's best to shower down and then carefully check your body, clothing and gear for ticks. Don’t forget to check the family dog too! The life stages of the Blacklegged (deer) tick, lone star tick and American dog (wood) tick demonstrating their relative sizes. If you do find an attached tick, remove it with a pair of fine tipped forceps (tweezers). Grasp it as close to the skin as possible. Pull up with steady, even pressure. Don’t jerk or twist it as this may break off the mouth parts, leaving them in the skin. If this does happen remove them with the tweezer tips. After removing the tick, clean up the bite with rubbing alcohol or soap and water. Never crush a tick with your fingers. If you do develop a rash or a fever within a few weeks of a tick bite, see your health care provider right away. Be sure to tell him or her about the bite, when and where it occurred. Want to learn more? The CDC has an excellent site . Also check out this Minnesota Department of Health article . And read this article from University of Minnesota Extension’s entomologist, Jeffery Hahn. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Health (1, 2)

< Back The Vacation is Over Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Your orchids have been enjoying an invigorating respite outside, but like all good things, it must come to an end. Orchids, like any indoor plant that has summered outdoors, have the potential of picking up nefarious bugs and potential diseases that you don’t want to bring into your indoor growing area. It is better to go on the offensive while they are outside because there are more treatment options available to combat the offenders when the orchids are outside. Read this article to learn how to return your orchids (or other house plants) indoors after their summer vacation. When is the vacation over ? Orchids are tropical plants, but that doesn’t mean always hot and humid. There are warm growing orchids (Dendrobiums), Warm-Intermediate Orchids (Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis), Intermediate (Cattleya), and cool growing orchids (Cymbidiums). Most home hobbyists have orchids in the middle two varieties and this temperature range is 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. So, when the night time temps begin to fall below 60 it is time to think about ending the vacation. Temperature variations of 10 to 15 degrees between day and night cue orchids to think about blooming. I challenge my orchids by letting the temperatures dip below 60 and have found this does stimulate the growth of flower spikes. My Cymbidiums are an exception; they need to be vernalized to re-bloom and can withstand temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (!). I leave my Cymbidiums outside until the nighttime temperatures dip to the upper 30s and they bloom reliably once indoors. Prepping to come home. When you bring any plant indoors from outside you want to be sure they are not bringing anything home they didn’t leave with. You want to be sure nothing has taken up residence the in the spaces between the bark chips or on the leaves or that an infection hasn’t invaded the plant. Pests I find the easiest way to get rid of the pot of pests is to soak the pot in a container clear up to the pot’s top. Anything inhabiting the mix will float to the top or drown. The culprits I usually see are sow bugs, earwigs, millipedes, and an occasional slug or two. Be sure to inspect the leaves, both top and bottom for pests. Be on the lookout for scale, mealy bugs, and spider mites as these are the most common. You can handle these by wiping down the leaves with water and a drop of dish washing soap. After wiping the leaves, I apply insecticidal soap. To kill two birds with one stone, I mix in a systemic pesticide, like Safari ®, into the water used to get rid of the resident pests. The systemic will continue to help your orchids fend off any sucking pests once they get into the house. Also, I use this occasion to clean off the exterior of the pot because some pests, mealy bugs in particular, will lay their egg masses outside the pot. I then let the pots drain for a day before bringing them in. Diseases Frankly, I haven’t found infections on my orchids; pests seem to be the biggest problem. Having said that, however, it doesn’t hurt to look. If your orchids are outside in the open where it is difficult to control moisture, you might want to look for crown rot. This is treatable with hydrogen peroxide (see reference below). This is also a good time for prophylactic treatments because there are many pesticide options available than can be applied outside, but not inside. These would be the topical sprays that are absorbed into the leaves of the orchid. Any spray that is OK for tropical plants will be OK for your orchids. Summary When you bring in plants from the outdoors to winter in an indoor growing area, it is important to make sure you do not introduce any pests. While this article deals specifically with orchids, the approaches can be used with any tropical plants. Your mantra must be “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!” References: Cymbidium Orchids - 10 Essentials for Growing Stunning Cymbidiums | Orchid Care Zone Time to bring houseplants back inside | UMN Extension Bringing Houseplants Indoors ( psu.edu ) What's wrong with my orchid? - American Orchid Society ( aos.org ) Orchid Crown Rot - Treatment and Prevention - Orchid Bliss Photo Credits: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back Top Ten Reasons for Choosing Purple for Your Garden Tom Molitor, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Color, in flowers or vegetables, is one of many reasons we appreciate our gardens. There are so many different colors and shades of colors to choose from when planning our gardens. In this entertaining article, ten reasons to choose purple plants are explored. Yes, purple plants are beautiful, but this article encourages you to think deeper and more expansively about why you should appreciate them – and plant them - in your garden. Color has a tremendous influence on our well-being. Colors are associated with season change, our favorite sports teams, our alma mater colors, fashion, music, art and so many more. They bring joy and happiness into our lives. Colors provide us with images of the past, of the present and even the future. Whether it be in grade school, high school, college or beyond, a commonly asked question is “what is your favorite color?” Each of us makes choices every day based on colors, even shades of colors. We choose colors based on our own preferences or due to our emotional state or on occasion we might make a color decision based on systemic thought, or even based on scientific reasoning. In Minnesota the color purple is associated, for many, with the Minnesota Vikings. After a disappointing season we can put the Vikings purple clothing in the back of the closet for a few months and concentrate on other reasons to celebrate purple - our plants for example! As we plan our gardens let us consider reasons to plant purple flowers and purple vegetables for 2026. My goal is to persuade you to choose purple for your plants and vegetables. If you have not been convinced by the end of this article to choose purple , you have made me blue. Provided below is a top ten list of both scientific and non-scientific reasons for choosing purple flowers and vegetables. Some of the reasons may surprise you! 10 Variety and diversity : so many shades of purple exist - violet, periwinkle, and lavender - to name just a few. Whether you prefer dark colors, light colors, colored leaves, colored flowers, colored roots or rhizomes, purple has them all. Photo by Gayle Bergevin 9 An impressive history in purple : it is a history of elegance, royalty, spirituality and sophistication. Purple has historically been linked to royalty and wealth, with expensive purple dyes being a status symbol. Purple dyes historically came from expensive natural sources like the murex sea snail (Tyrian purple) and, importantly, plants. Plants whose roots and berries have been used for purple dyes include: Alkanet ( Alkanna tinctoria ): the roots produce a strong red/purple dye, particularly for oils and textiles; Elderberry ( Sambucus nigra ), berries produce lavender to deep purple shades; Pokeberry ( Phytolacca americana ): yields shades from deep rose to mahogany-purple; Whortleberry/Blaeberry ( Vaccinium myrtillus ), blue-purple berries produce lavender colors Logwood ( Haematoxylum campechianum ) a flowering tree produces a deep purple dye. 8 Medicinal value : Purple fruits and vegetables contain compounds called anthocyanins, pigments in foods ranging from that royal hue – anywhere from deep red-orange to striking violet to beautiful blue. Anthocyanins are known for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective health benefits, including supporting heart, brain, and eye health, and potentially slowing aging and cancer growth . Their health value stems from protecting cells from oxidative damage. Plants that contain anthocyanins are also better protected against damage from sunlight. Several purple herbs possess significant medicinal value including - Echinacea (purple coneflower), Self-Heal, and Purple Dead Nettle , which are often used in teas, tinctures, or salves. 7 Uniqueness and Individuality : Purple stands out from the crowd, representing a desire to be noticed and express individuality. Whether it is a vegetable garden or a flower garden— purple is striking, has inherent beauty and draws upon your senses. Photo by Gayle Bergevin 6 Purple conjures up references to literature, to music, to theater . “The Color Purple,” by Alice Walker, was a remarkable book, movie and theater production. Do we have comparable references with green and yellow colors? One of the most influential musicians from the state of Minnesota was Prince. Purple was his signature color, as was his most popular song - Purple Rain . Consider playing the song Purple Rain when you are planting purple flowers this spring. It’s unclear if the plant will benefit but the gardener certainly will. 5 Children prefer Purple : Children are often drawn to purple because of its vibrant and attention-grabbing nature, its association with fun and imagination, and its ability to inspire creativity and spark imagination. 4 Spirituality and Mysticism : Purple is frequently linked to spirituality and the mystical. Many spiritual practices incorporating purple due to its meditative properties. Who doesn’t appreciate a flower garden (with purple flowers, of course) for its meditative properties. 3 Calming and Balancing : Purple is believed to have a calming effect on the mind and nerves, promoting mental balance and stability. Shades like lavender are particularly effective for relaxation and mental rest. For example, Lilacs ( Syringa vulgaris ) and/or Lavender ( Lavandula ). Photo by Gayle Bergevin 2 Pollinators love purple . Bees and other pollinators are highly attracted to purple. Watch a pollinator garden for bees’ preferences; purple flowers are generally preferred over that of green and yellow. 1 There are many beautiful purple plants to choose from. In sum, Purple is widely considered a fun, vibrant color that combines the calming stability of blue with the energetic power of red . It is used to spark imagination in learning environments and brings a cheerful, whimsical feel to everyday life. So too, do purple flowers and purple vegetables bring such emotions and fun to your garden. A few suggestions for planting purple vegetables: the royalty of purple vegetables are the Beet and the Eggplant. No discussion of purple vegetables can proceed without mentioning these two stalwarts of the garden. One reason they stand out is that the purple dyes in these plants is retained upon cooking. Purple beans and peppers are also beautiful in the garden but they lose their vibrant purple color upon cooking. While orange tends to be the preferred color for garden carrots, the purple carrot is also desirable (and, based on Egyptian ancient records, most likely preceded the orange carrot.) Photo by Gayle Bergevin Have the top ten reasons to choose purple vegetables and flowers convinced you yet? You may choose purple plants and vegetables for their beauty but there are so many more reasons to appreciate the purple . Whatever the reason, hopefully you are inspired to choose purple for your garden this year. Photo Credits: pxhere.com (all creative commons) (1), Gayle Bergevin (2-5)

< Back Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. www.allaboutbirds.org Do partridges occur in pear trees? Around this time of year we do receive a spike in sightings of partridges in pear trees, although curiously there never seems to be more than one individual reported per pear tree. Both partridges and pear trees are Old World species that have been introduced into North America, which means that th Pears originated in central Asia and have spread around the world. They have been hybridized to survive in hardiness zones 4-8, although some can tolerate zone 3. The blossoms will die if there is a spring freeze of 24F°. Pear trees can be up to 40’ tall, but there are some semi-dwarfing rootstocks that will result in a 15-20’ tree. Most pears fruit on spurs. Spurs form on wood that is two years or older. Fruit buds are fat and furry, leaf buds are slender and smooth. Fruiting spur Pear trees will do reasonably well in a wide range of soil types, although they don’t like wet feet. Pear trees require full sunlight all day long. You will need two varieties of pears for optimum pollination. “Summer Crisp” and “Patton” work well together; both have a certain amount of disease resistance and are hardy here. Fire-blight is the most serious disease and should be pruned out to a minimum of 6” below the disease. The pests that can attack pear trees are rabbits and voles (winter bark damage), deer (browsing and antler rubbing). Japanese beetles feed on pear leaves, but not to damaging levels. This link includes planting instructions: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-pears Pruning is just cuts and consequences. A plant can be pruned at any time of year – you’ll just get different consequences. Begin pruning a pear tree in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning encourages water sprouts and suckering in spring and summer and also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Summer pruning of fruit trees controls excess growth on a tree by removing energy-wasting water sprouts. Summer is also a good time to remove leafy upper branches that excessively shade fruit on lower branches. https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-apples-and-pears-in-home-fruit-plantings A few weeks after pruning, new growth will be vigorous and can have very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. If a limb is not spread, as in the picture to the left, a bark inclusion can develop, i.e. the bark of the trunk and the branch grow together. This weakens the branch and can be an entry point for disease. Weak branch angle with bark inclusion A wide-angled branch, results in a stronger branch that can carry future heavy crops. Limb spreaders improve the tree shape and form strong crotch angles. Young branches can be clothes pinned, tied or weighted down. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end or sharpened metal rods. Spreaders should remain in place until the branch "stiffens up" (1-2 years). Strong branch angle The summer after the first winter pruning, remove any water sprouts that grow on a heavily pruned tree. Water sprouts grow around pruning cuts. If you use pruning shears, you never quite get the entire shoot. Instead, pull the shoots off the trunk and major side branches, shoots can be pulled off safely throughout the season as long as their bases remain tender and green. Heading cuts shorten a limb or shoot. This removes the terminal bud that normally stops shoot development from buds closer to the trunk. This also causes several shoots to develop near the cut, which results in a thicker, denser canopy and reduced light levels. A thinning cut removes an entire shoot or branch back to its point of origin. Thinning cuts do not induce excessive vigorous regrowth and will open the tree to allow more sun inside the interior. Harvest and Storage Pears should be harvested while they are still firm and green. Some pears rot from the inside out, if they ripen on the tree. For best results, find out the approximate maturity time for the cultivar, watch for a slight color change from a darker to a lighter shade of green, and check fruit size. Store mature pears in the refrigerator, then ripen at room temperature for up to a week before eating or canning. Pears bruise easily, so, handle carefully when picking and storing! https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-fruits-growing-pears-home-orchard-fact-sheet Happy growing and check out the many wonderful pear recipes found on the internet! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare