< Back A Personal Nod to the First Harvest Vegetable, the Honorable Radish The radish is a star of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turn around. It is also great in a salad and even a salsa. But Master Gardener intern Liz Townley, was intrigued with her mother’s practice of eating a radish on buttered white bread – the radish sandwich. She dug deep to find the origins of this practice, before finally trying the radish sandwich herself. Read this entertaining article on the joys of the humble radish sandwich. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The mighty radish is the queen of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turnaround from seed to table! But does it have other star qualities? As a child, I remember watching my mother buttering her bread, slicing some ‘fresh from the garden’ radishes, sprinkling some salt on them and eating them on an open face sandwich! We were aghast! How could she eat a sandwich that didn’t include meat? She offered to make us one and sadly, we turned her down. Now, I have learned to enjoy this early harvest vegetable in homemade salads and yes, even radish salsa (it was actually too hot!). Lately, I felt drawn to give the radish sandwich a try myself. But I was also interested in how the sandwich itself came about. Let’s start with the radish itself. There are 36 to 40 commonly known radishes. The most familiar are the garden radishes ( Raphanus sativus var. radicula ). Garden radishes are known to have a spicy flavor and crisp, juicy texture. And in just 3 to 5 weeks after planting, we can pull out our first radish harvest of the season. But how and why did someone think it was a good idea to plop radishes on a sandwich? Radish sandwich in history In my research, I learned that it is likely that the sandwich was started in Europe and Asia as a simple way to consume an abundance of radishes when the harvest was ready. While there’s no single documented “invention” date for the radish sandwich, its simplicity suggests it evolved from basic bread-and-vegetable traditions . The sandwich’s minimal ingredients—bread, butter, radishes, salt—align with rustic, utilitarian eating styles common in many cultures. In the United States, radishes were popular in the 19th century, with seed companies urging daily consumption. A notable historical example is the Parmesan Radish Sandwich described in The Up-To-Date Sandwich Book (1909), which used only radishes and parmesan cheese. This shows that by the early 20th century, radishes were being used as a sandwich filling in more elaborate ways. Cultural and modern context The sandwich’s popularity today is partly due to its simplicity and adaptability. It’s found in global variations, from German-style butter-and-radish rolls to Asian-inspired bánh mì with pickled radish. Its origins are thus a blend of: Ancient culinary traditions (Egyptian, Greek, Roman) European bread-and-vegetable culture American home-style sandwich evolution in the 19th–20th centuries In short, the radish sandwich’s origins are tied to the long history of radishes themselves and to the global spread of simple, bread-based sandwiches, with its modern form emerging from both culinary heritage and everyday home cooking. Okay, so now it’s my turn to get in on this tradition. I saw many variations of the sandwich – different breads, radish sliced thin or thick, radish pickled, topped with mint, parsley and even peas! radish, edamame, ricotta and greens sandwich; Credit: www.pechluck.com But I decided to try it the traditional way, just like Mom used to make. Normally, I am not a white bread eater, so I selected a well-known brand to up my chances of success. I wouldn’t be able to try the sandwich on my mother’s Holsum Bread (remember their yellow wrappers that ended up in your snow boots?), but I am up the challenge! First, I got the butter to room temperature as to not rip the bread. Then, I cut off the ends of the radish and used a potato/vegetable peeler to cut up my radish. I layered it on the bread, lightly salted it and made my husband try it first! He complied, and thought it was okay, but a little strange to have a vegetable sandwich. radish sandwich with white bread; Credit: www.hellolittlehome.com Then, I tried it. It was great! The smooth butter taste paired nicely with the spicy, crunchy flavor of the radish on the soft white bread and the slight salty taste at the end. Try it for yourself as a snack or as a part of your fancy tea plate. This simple sandwich may become your new spring favorite, too! I only wished I hadn’t waited so long to try my mother’s radish sandwich. Source: University of Minnesota Extension website, Academic library , YouTube , Jacques Pepin Radish Sandwich, Sandwiches of History and Sandwich Tribunal . Photos: Liz Townley

< Back Sunflowers - Bright, Beautiful and Fun to Grow Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to see the entire life cycle of a plant. This article explains how to engage in this fun and easy learning opportunity. Julie Henrichs Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to experience the entire life cycle of a plant. Sunflowers are ideal for planting with children because sunflower seeds are large in size for easy handling, tolerates dry or drought conditions and also is fairly low maintenance. Sunflowers are also “giving” plants - bees and bugs benefit from the flowers while birds eat the seeds produced. Let’s Get Planting Sunflower seeds come in all varieties, size and many colors ranging from yellow, orange, bronze, red, burgundy and even white with a variation of mixed petals. Allow your children to choose the type of sunflower to grow and then ask why they chose the one they did? Was it for the height, the extra fuzzy looking flower or simply the color? If you have height restrictions, refer to seed package for height and spacing guidelines. We think of sunflower seeds always being planted in the ground, but they can also be planted in containers. Choosing the best finished container is important and make sure to base the size of container by the plant height. Items Needed: Appropriately sized planting container (base size on final height of plant) with good drainage Sunflower Seeds Potting Soil Water in watering can or spray bottle Plant labels (optional) Gardening Gloves (optional) Let’s get started: Fill containers with potting soil, leaving dirt an inch away from the rim of the container. Once the container is filled, tap down lightly and add any potting soil as needed. Children can poke a small hole with their finger into the soil. Open the seed packet and have your child plant the seeds about 1-2 inches into the soil in the hole. Seeds can be spaced approximately 6-12 inches apart depending on the sunflower seed type. (refer to the back of the package for planting depth and spacing) Cover seeds and tamp down soil Water gently with a watering can being careful not to disrupt the newly planted seeds or spritz the soil with water making sure the soil is wet Set the newly planted containers in full sun. Continue to check the new plantings for watering needs at least once or twice a day. Once the seedlings have emerged, continue to check to make sure the soil remains moist, but not saturated. Seeds start to grow 1-1 ½ weeks after planting. As your sunflower begins to grow it may require staking to keep the plant upright, especially in strong winds. Sunflowers are unique in that they begin as a seed and also end as a seed. The sunflower plant produces a sunflower bloom/head. When the sunflower head starts to turn brown, the sunflowers can be cut off and either they can be left for birds and other insects or they can be dried and then used later. Sunflowers provide so many benefits – a fun and educational gardening experience, a beautiful display and food for birds and insects. Let’s get planting! Photo Credit: flickr.com (1,2), backgardener.com (3)

< Back SEED SAVING 101 Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Do you have some beautiful plants or vegetables in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Read this article for a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success. Do you have some beautiful plants in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Here are a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success: - Know your plant. Seed saving is not the same across the board. The big takeaway here is heirloom vs. hybrid (F1). Heirloom seed will save true, hybrid seed will not. - Choose the ‘perfect’ specimen. There is variation in your plant, and selecting by size, shape, etc., will make a difference. Sacrifice that perfect tomato, largest flower, or tallest dill—whatever you want to reproduce. - Collect seed when it is ripe. The seed does need to ripen before it becomes viable. This happens in different ways, but generally speaking, you need to let the plant go beyond the growing stage and head into decline. Collect and obtain the seed once it is ripe. - I like to follow the plant’s lead. If the seed dries on the plant (typically a pod or seedhead), wait until it is dry and ready to fall off the plant, or the pods are dry and cracking open. Remove from the plant (threshing), and then remove the seeds from the pod or seedhead (winnowing). - If enclosed in wet fleshy fruit, (like tomatoes, cucumbers, melons), wait until the fruit is almost rotting or well past prime. The seeds have a gooey substance that needs to be removed in order to improve their germination rate. An easy way to remove the ‘goo’ is to soak them in a small jar of water until it ferments (several days) and then strain and dry them. The goo will have separated during this time, and the fermentation process actually helps make the seeds disease free. - Dry your seed thoroughly. Store in paper envelopes—they need to breathe. - Don’t forget to label everything, including the date harvested. - Crossbreeding—if you want your seed to be true to the plant, this needs to be avoided. Plant one variety, or keep the plants far enough away from other plants that can cross-pollinate. This does require knowledge of how the plant pollinates, whether wind, insect or self. Perhaps creating a new variety is of interest—in which case you would want to plant the two parents close enough to create cross-pollination. Do a little background on your plants to achieve your desired outcome. If you are interested in learning more, Seed Savers ( www.seedsavers.org ) is a great place to get started. They have a lot of articles, seed saving charts, and more. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2), www.Flickr.com (3)

Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets during the spring, summer, and fall in Apple Valley, Burnsville, Eagan, and Lakeville. During the winter, you can find them at winter markets in Eagan and Apple Valley. A complete listing of dates, locations and times can be found on our Event Calendar. Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now Check out our YouTube channel! Dakota County Master Gardener YouTube

< Back White Wild Indigo (Baptisia alba): A Victim of Popularity? Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The wild indigo is a beautiful native plant that has been hybridized into an array of colors. In this article, Jim Lakin explains why you should consider bypassing the new colors and sticking with the native white wild indigo. The native plant is not only beautiful but offers benefits to the soil and to pollinators. Let’s read more about the white wild indigo. In a way, native plants are like football players. If the footballer is good in high school, he goes to college. He’s drafted into the NFL, trained, coached and turned into a hulking freight train with little resemblance to that cute high schooler. The wild indigos have suffered a similar fate. There are three common species of wild indigo in the Midwest. They are beautiful flowers. Consequently, breeders have hybridized them into a menagerie of colors from an odd dark brown to a range of yellows and blues. How much these hybrids support the pollinators that have depended on the native species for thousands of years remains to be seen. The native wild indigos are legumes, like the milkvetch we talked about last month, and thus fix nitrogen, enriching the soil. They have deep, extensive root systems which are very difficult to transplant but greatly enrich the prairie soils to which they are native. So, in planting native indigos instead of “store bought” fancy hybrids, you are doing the soil a great favor. The wild indigos emerge in the spring, looking like early asparagus shoots. In spite of what some eager sellers might tell you these shoots are not “deer resistant” but are indeed tempting to our ungulate friends. Once the mature foliage appears, the deer tend to shy away. But as one wise conservationist told me, “if a deer gets hungry, he’ll eat darn near anything.” As I said last month, an 80 lb. Labradane does wonders for deer control! White wild indigo in bloom; Photo credit: plants.ces.ncsu.edu This brings us to one of the three most prolific species, White wild indigo ( Baptisia alba ). Regular readers may remember we talked about Blue wild indigo in December of 2024. White wild indigo is native to all the Midwestern prairies. It is an elegant stately plant which projects a graceful spire of white flowers skyward. Its stalks are usually from two to three feet tall although some varieties can reach four to six feet. It will do well in most any well-drained soil with full sun. It easily grows from seed. White wild indigo boasts a blue-green foliage which contrasts nicely with the early summer flowering of milky white blooms on tall stalks. As the fall comes, pea pod fruits are initially green, turning to black as winter comes. At some point during the winter the pod splits and the seeds are disgorged. winter seedpods; Photo credit: G D Bebeau, The Friends of the Wildflower Garden Although usually quite low maintenance, B. alba is plagued by the Wild Indigo Weevil, or Baptisia Seed Pod Weevil, which is a type of beetle with an elongated snout that inserts its larval eggs into the pre-dispersed B. alba seeds. Usually, the plant will shed infected pods, promoting survival. If left to its own devices B. alba will usually soldier on. Thus, White wild indigo is a lovely addition to your landscape, providing summer color and elegance along with winter interest. The addition of B. alba to your plantings will enhance the beauty of your garden, the richness of your soil and the functionality of your ecosystem.

< Back Anemone Blandas (aka Grecian Windflowers) Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener October is a great month plant your bulbs for a spring bloom. We are all familiar with tulips, daffodils and hyacinths so how about trying something a bit less common? In this article, we learn about Anemone Blanda aka Grecian Windflowers. This petite bulb (or corm) comes in blooms in several colors and disappear when their bloom time is over. This article may convince you to try Anemone Blanda this year. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if there was a spring bulb in multiple colors that was easy to grow, naturalized beautifully and had foliage and flowers that disappeared after blooming, requiring no clean-up? There is such a bulb (although technically a corm). It is called Anemone Blanda or Grecian Windflower . Anemone Blandas come in white, pink and light and dark blue. They naturalize beautifully and disappear without a trace when their blooming time is over. blue anemone blanda; Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden With all these wonderful qualities one would expect to see more of them then one does. I believe the reasons behind their lack of use are incomplete growing instructions on their packets and accessibility issues. However, these barriers are easily overcome. The charmingly petite, daisy-like blooms of anemone blanda arrive in early to mid-spring. It is a low grower - 4 to 8 inches - and makes a fine flowering ground cover that adds color to the landscape when it needs it most. Perfect for planting in rock gardens, it is also perfect for growing under deciduous trees and shrubs because it blooms before the trees and shrubs leaf out. Hardy in zones 4 - 9, anemone blanda grows best in locations with well-drained soil and full to half day sun. Sold completely dry and looking like shriveled up kernels, these corms need to be soaked before planting. Often missing from the corm packet, this instruction has led to gardeners planting the corns dry, resulting in no growth. Instead, soak the corms in tepid water for 3 - 4 hours or overnight, if necessary, until they plump up and nearly double their size. Plant in odd-numbered ‘drifts’, 3 to 4 inches deep, anytime from mid-September to mid-October. This gives the corm time to grow roots before the ground freezes. (There is no obvious top or bottom to these corms, however, the com will find it’s way up to the light). Most Minnesota soils are rich in phosphorus, an essential macronutrient for blooming. Unless your soil tests deficient in phosphorus or potassium, skip the fertilizer and add compost when planting these corms. white anemone blanda; Photo credit Missouri Botanical Garden Although occasionally available at big box stores, anemone blanda can be hard to find. Do an internet search for anemone blanda or visit the websites for Brecks, Spring Hill, Dutch Grown or Burpee Gardening. All these online stores carry anemone blandas/Grecian windflowers. Plant now and enjoy these colorful, daisy-like flowers next April. References: https://www.almanac.com/plant/anemone https://www.dutchbulbs.com/products/anemone-blanda-blue-shades?utm_content=3646247&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=KV+-+DSA+-+Products+-+NBRD&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20162711193&gbraid=0AAAAADxAdBZsRNFcuHohv5uvZ5o5Zeq68&gclid=CjwKCAjwpefSBhBvEiwAzyEtZzL8OAJypEdxUAz8MNQYnliJNPUrWRW3oQxs1GHqtHsF9oplJ91gkRoCThUQAvD_BwE https://extension.umn.edu/gardening-minnesota/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#spring-care-for-hardy-bulbs-1402461

< Back Tea For Your Sipping Pleasure Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower. Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower . Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Photo Credit: www.gardensall.com roselle hibiscus flowers Agua (AH-wa or AUG-wa) de jamaica (hah-MY-kah) is a refreshingly tart iced tea that you may have tried either on a trip to Mexico or at your local Tex-Mex restaurant. Did You know that its lovely deep red color and delicious flavor comes from dried roselle hibiscus flowers? Though the roselle hibiscus originated in West Africa, it is commonly grown in Mexico, and South and Central America. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com roselle hibiscus plant bud This basic recipe for jamaica, taken from muydelish.com , is a very simple 3-ingredient infusion. Of course, anyone may have their own family recipe which they may share with you or not! Ingredients for the basic recipe are: 2 cups dried roselle hibiscus flowers (found at your local Latin store) 16 cups cold water 1 cup sugar, or to taste Bring 2 cups of dried jamaica flowers (also known as hibiscus and flor de Jamaica) and 8 cups of cold water to a soft boil for 5 minutes in a medium pot. Remove from heat. Add 1 cup sugar, or a sweetener variation below, and stir until dissolved. Add the remaining cups of cold water and steep for at least 2 hours or overnight. When steeping is complete, strain the flowers from the tea and pour tea into a large pitcher. (Yes, you may compost the spent jamaica!) Store in the refrigerator and pour over ice whenever the spirit hits you! Photo Credit: worldoffloweringplants.com roselle hibiscus tea on ice and warm, with tea leaves Variations during boiling include adding a cinnamon stick, a pinch of allspice or a little fresh ginger. Alternative sweeteners include piloncillo – a cone-shaped brown sugar, or agave syrup. You may add a mint sprig or some lime juice to your glass – delicious! References: muydelish.com https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hibiscus-sabdariffa/ https://www.epicgardening.com/roselle/ Photo Credits: Worldoffloweringplants.com (1), www.flickr.com (2), www.gardensall.com (3)

< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

REGISTRATION FOR LET'S GET GROWING 2026 IS OPEN! Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a great time. This event includes classes, a keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Consider coming to enjoy friendly people and a garden marketplace where you can purchase books and garden décor in a spring time atmosphere! Date Saturday, March 14, 2026 Time 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Central time Location Eagan Community Center 1501 Central Parkway Eagan, MN 55121 Schedule 8 a.m. Check in, vendors, and refreshments open 9 a.m. Welcome 9:45 a.m. Session 1 11 a.m. Session 2 12-1 p.m. lunch 1-2 p.m. Keynote speaker Laura Irish-Hanson Session 1 options Enjoying birds and animals in your garden — Matt Schuth Exploring native plants for your garden plans — Andy Scott Diseases in lawns — Jon Trappe, Extension turfgrass educator Helping trees survive and thrive in a changing landscape — Gary Johnson, Extension forestry educator Session 2 options Container garden like a pro — Michelle Mero Riedel Landscaping for clean water — Victoria Ranua Diseases in plants: Prevention, management, and detective work — Laura Irish-Hanson, Extension horticulture educator Stone sculpture in your garden — Peter Juhl (class limit 20) Cost $45 Accommodations University of Minnesota Extension is committed to providing equal opportunity for participation in all programs, services and activities. To request accommodations for persons with disabilities, reach out to the event contact two weeks before the start of the event. Requests received after this date will be honored whenever possible. Language This offering is delivered in English. Interpreter services may be available with an advance request. Speaker Bios Register here Read more

Annual Plant Sale Saturday, May 16, 2026 8:00 a.m. - Noon Rain or Shine Western Service Center 14955 Galaxie Avenue Apple Valley, MN Plan to gather your gardening friends and bring a box or wagon to bring home healthy, Minnesota-grown plants at reasonable prices! Click here for a list of available plants. Shop our wide variety of sun and shade perennials, natives, and woodland plants, grasses, groundcovers, and other landscape plants, along with herb and veggie plants too. Subscribe to our monthly newsletter, The Buzz , to receive information about all our events and garden information.

Contact Dakota County Master Gardeners Volunteers We would love to hear from you! Visit our Speakers Bureau page if you are interested in having a Master Gardener speak to your group. Use the contact form on this page. Submit Thank you for contacting Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers. One of our volunteers will respond soon. Contact Information Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers 4100 220th St W #101 Farmington, MN 55024