< Back Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Read on to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. I thought this article would be simple to write, but as it turns out, it is a much more complicated topic than I thought. Many gardeners understand the psychological benefits of having living plants around us. According to the American Horticultural Society, indoor plants can improve air quality through air purification, reduce stress, improve productivity, and bring beauty to your home. However, some people who have asthma or other lung conditions need to choose what type of plant, if any, is best for them. If you are concerned about allergens in your home, potted plants can be a challenge as the soil, if not properly watered, can create mold. Mold is created in soil from overwatering with limited air circulation and not enough sunlight. The Mayo Clinic suggested that if you do have potted plants in your home, you can put aquarium gravel over the dirt to contain any mold that could develop. Removing dust from your plants periodically also helps with allergies. Flowering plants can also be a challenge for people with airborne allergens. In my research I discovered the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale System (OPALS). It is a standard which considers the likelihood a plant will cause pollen allergy symptoms. Plants are ranked on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most allergenic. This system can be used for trees, shrubs, and other plants (indoors and outdoors). While researching, I did discover that there were many lists to cross reference and it was confusing as some of the lists said they were allergen friendly and other lists said they were not. So, I am including some of the most common plants that showed up on multiple lists realizing that this is a limited list. There are some colorful plants that produce pollens which are heavier and stickier. These plants will be less likely to cause irritants. Another suggestion is to consider cross referencing this list with a plant list that can cause skin rash sensitivities or are harmful to pets. Snake Plant (also called Mother-In-Law Tongue) Peace Lily Parlor Palm Areca Palm Lady Palm Bamboo Palm Dracaena Golden Pothos Dragon Tree (also called Marginata) Rubber Plant Philodendron Brasil Aloe Vera and other Succulents Horsehead Philodendron Dumb cane String of Pearls So, if you have been avoiding houseplants because of concern about allergies, know that there are houseplants out there that can provide the greenery, color and other benefits of houseplants this winter. Reference: “Healthy Living: How a Lab Founded with Mayo Clinic is Fine-tuning the Indoors”. By Liv Martin, September 13, 2021; Minnesota Monthly. https://ahsgardening.org “The Joys and Benefits of Indoor Gardening” Mayo Clinic website: “Allergy-proof your home” By Mayo Clinic Staff House Digest, “15 Best Houseplants for People with Allergies” by Kailen Skewis, October 16, 2022 Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, “Smart Gardening: Tips for an Allergy-Friendly Garden”, AAFA Community Services, 4/18/18 Good Housekeeping, “10 Best Indoor Plants for your Health According to Research”, by Erica Sweeney, Juley 29, 2022 https://zyrtec.com/indoors “5 .“Best Allergy Friendly House Plants” Https://plantify.co.za Https://flonase.com/allergies , “Best and Worst Indoor Plants for Allergies” Photo Credit: Commons.wikimedia.org-Creative Commons (1), Gardening.stackexchange.com-Creative Commons (2), www.flickr.com-Creative Commons (3)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Who should plant bulbs? You! Why plant bulbs? Bulbs can provide color all in all three seasons and many bulbs will return year after year. Most bulbs prefer full sun but some bulbs even thrive in shade! What are bulbs and what kinds to plant? What we loosely call bulbs are actually a group containing: true bulbs (Tulips, lilies), corms (Crocus), rhizomes (Callas, Iris) and tuberous roots (Dahlias, Tuberous begonias). All of these plants have a self-contained food storage system that has adapted to living underground. Bulbs are either hardy (perennial) or tender (need to be dug and stored) and this will determine where you plant them. Most people are familiar with Tulips, Daffodils and Lilies. All of these come in early, mid-and late season, as well as short medium and tall. There are a host of small bulbs that are often overlooked. Many of these will grow well in areas under trees because they flower before the tree leaves out. Where should I plant bulbs? Most bulbs should be planted in full sun. They don't like wet feet. Most bulbs will do well in soils ranging from sandy to clay. Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Trillium, Tuberous begonias and Martagon lilies are bulbs that will grow in the shade. How do I plant bulbs? Dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb's circumference. Amend the soil with organic matter. You may have heard of putting bone meal in the hole, don't do this unless you have a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) that shows your soil needs calcium and phosphorous. According to the University of Colorado, bone meal will only be available to plants in soil that has a pH level of 7 or lower. Dakota County soils tend to be naturally high in phosphorous. Make sure to plant bulbs deeper if your soil is sandy. Putting a wire barrier over the bulbs may deter digging critters. It is recommended to plant odd numbers of bulbs for aesthetics. Smaller bulbs can be planted on top of larger bulbs, rather like a fruit cake. When do I plant bulbs? Bulbs can be planted from late September through late October in Minnesota. If you are dividing bulbs, wait for the foliage to dry, but you can move them immediately. Some bulbs, such as lilies, can be moved “in the green”, as long as they are done blooming, and are taken care of through any dry, hot weather. If you wish to overwinter tender bulbs, plant them where it will be easy to dig them in the fall. For more information go to https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes For information on growing bulbs indoors go to https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors . Happy Planting! Photo credits: Carolyn Plank (1), Deborah Snow (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Poinsettias – A Home in Mexico and Dr. Poinsett Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener The Poinsettia is a weed in its native Mexico. It is called lobster plant or Mexican Flame Leaf and has become an essential part of North America’s Christmas décor. The poinsettia that adorns mantles, coffee tables, and bookcases across North America is a descendant of a 6-foot shrub from which growers in Scandinavia and California developed the scaled-down varieties that bloom indoors. All poinsettias are winter-flowering shrubs that are noted for the bright red bracts or leaves. Modern plants have bracts that measure 12-15 inches with green leaves. The real flowers are the insignificant, greenish-yellow center clusters. Today plants can be purchased in many colors from white, peppermint (red & white,) pink and others. Keep a Poinsettia at normal room temperature (60-80 degrees) in a bright filtered location such as opposite light filtering blinds. Water only when the foliage droops slightly: the potting soil should then be totally saturated. No fertilization is necessary. Most individuals discard the plant soon after the holidays but with care you can have bright red bracts until April. Some enthusiasts will attempt to follow the strict schedule of taking cuttings or allow the cut back stump to develop new growth. Commercial producers follow a strict routine that is difficult for the home grower to mimic. Poinsettias are short-day plants; the flower and bract formation is prompted by an eight-week period of 14 hours total uninterrupted darkness and 10 hours of light daily. Plants are treated with a dwarfing chemical that reduces stem length, which results in the Poinsettia plant we know today. Poinsettias are readily available so this procedure is not needed to enjoy this beautiful plant. The Legend of the Poinsettia by Tomie dePaola tells the story of a young Mexican girl who had nothing for the manger scene on Christmas Eve. She picked tall green weeds to place around the stable and as the congregation prayed bright red star flowers burst open on the weed tips, casting a warm glow around the manger scene. The people named the plant la Flor de Nochebuena or Flower of the Holy Night. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to Mexico from 1825-1830, brought the shrub to the United States in 1830 because the bright red leaves, which he thought to be the flower, fascinated him. He took cuttings from shrubs growing near his Mexican residence to his home in South Carolina. The plant was named for Dr. Poinsett as the Poinsettia. Nothing says Merry Christmas like a bright red Poinsettia. Remember to thank Dr. Poinsett for this cheerful holiday plant! For more details on caring for poinsettia, visit this UMN Extension link. Additional sources: Tomie dePaola. The Legend of the Poinsettia. G.P. Putmans & Sons, 1994. Huxley Anthony, Editor. Success with House Plants, Readers Digest,1979.

< Back Seeds of Wonder - Planting Seeds with Children Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There’s a sense of wonder from all ages when a small seed becomes a plant before our very eyes. I found myself browsing the seed rack at the nursery on a dreary day at the end of December and a fellow shopper walked by, smiled and said, “feeling optimistic?” Well, yes. Seed packets are a pretty affordable envelope of optimism - and one we can certainly share with children! Britannica dictionary offers these two definitions of a seed: ‘A small object produced by a plant from which a new plant can grow’ and ‘the beginning of something which continues to develop or grow.’ So, when we incorporate seeds into a fun activity with kids, we are quite literally starting at the beginning to grow plants! How to get going? Well, gather a few things: Seeds With kids, I like to select slightly bigger seeds they can handle (though you can broadcast seeds with a salt shaker if they are small). I also look at the germination time on the packet - fewer days of germination get them closer to seeing growth on their young seedlings. For example, the back of the seed packet for this “Cat Grass,” avena sativa, indicates sprouting in 5-10 days, and the plant is “ready” in 10-15 days. Not instant gratification but results come pretty quickly. Growing medium This is what we plant the seeds in. There are several options available, but I usually pick up a bag of “Seedling Mix” from various suppliers. Seeds already come with the energy and nutrition they need to sprout, so they really just need a friendly place to grow. Container Pick one that drains water so the seeds don’t get water logged and rot. I’ve used trays marketed for seeding, yogurt cups with holes poked in the bottom and small terra cotta pots. I like repurposing plastic berry containers because they already have drainage holes (a coffee filter placed in the bottom will allow water through but hold in the growing medium) AND the lids act as little greenhouses to help with humidity in the air around the seeds. Once the seeds sprout, just open the container up so the seedlings have room to grow. Water A great way to start the seeds off with water is to place some growing medium in a bowl and have your child stir with a large spoon while one of you adds water, a little at a time, until the soil clumps but isn’t soggy. Then, add the moistened soil to the container, ready to plant the seeds. Once the seeds are in, a spray bottle or mister (as basic or fancy as you wish, the plants don’t care!) makes for a fun activity each day for kids to keep the seeds from drying out as they are germinating. A planting “tool” like a spoon or scoop helps, though some kids like to just use their hands and that’s perfectly ok. Planting Time (Caregivers may want to protect activity surfaces - seed planting can get messy!) 1. Using a tray underneath, fill the container part way with growing medium, such as Seedling Mix. 2. Look at the seed packet for planting depth and spacing. In this example, seeds should be broadcast (scattered) on the surface and gently pressed into the growing medium. These seeds can sprout right on top, but if seeds are to be planted at 1/4 inch, you’d scatter another 1/4 inch of growing medium on top of the seeds. 3. Spray the top of the growing medium and seeds to help settle and hydrate. 4. Find a bright spot to place your planted container, keep the growing medium from drying out, and watch for your sprouts to appear! I tried these seeds both in a shallow container, from which I will move seedlings to a larger container once they are about 2” high per the packet instructions, and also in a small terra cotta pot that can hold bigger seedlings. You can do your own “experiment’ with your child to see what happens to seeds planted in different containers. Within 2 weeks, the seeding project becomes another activity: Using age-appropriate scissors, a child can “harvest” their crop - in this case cat grass that will continue to grow. They may also like giving the plant a “haircut” and using the trimmings in imaginative play or art projects. Plants can be grown to stay inside. Others can be gradually moved to an outdoor pot or garden when the warm weather is here. The first amazing step is watching the transformation of seeds into tiny seedling plants. Here are some other plants with shorter seed germination times: Marigolds Lettuce Peas Basil Calendula Have fun together seeing the plants that can grow from those tiny seeds! Looking for some reading to learn more about plant seeds? Check out these books available through Dakota County Library Seeds Go, Seeds Grow by Mark Weakland. "Simple text and photographs explain the basic science behind seeds” (Dakota County Library) A seed is the start by Melissa Stewart. “ Beautiful photography and lyrical text pair with comprehensive picture captions in award-winning author Melissa Stewart’s story about the surprisingly diverse world of seeds. Learn all about the plant cycle, from how seeds grow, the fascinating ways they travel, and what it takes for a seed to become a plant.” (Dakota County Library) A Seed is Sleepy by Dianna Hutts Aston ; illustrated by Sylvia Long. “ This book offers children a beautiful and informative look at the intricate, complex, and often surprising world of seeds. An informative introduction to seeds.” (Dakota County Library) Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4, ), Book jackets (5, 6, 7)

< Back Overwinter Geraniums the Correct Way As the end of the growing season appears it may be sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end. Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s never too early to start thinking about final garden projects as we near the end of our growing season. Sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end? Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Overwintered geraniums are an early memory of mine. I distinctly remember running down the basement stairs of my grandparent’s home and being struck with the scent of the potted geraniums, lined up across the west facing window; the vibrant colors, a welcome contrast to the bright white winter landscape outside. There are two main ways to overwinter your geraniums, both of which need to be done before the first frost: Potted While my grandparents chose to keep tending to their geraniums through the winter months in their original pots, you might keep your geraniums in planters or heavy pots that would be impossible to move indoors. If you want to keep the plants potted, you can transplant them into smaller indoor pots by carefully digging up the root ball, and replanting into the pot of your choice. Before bringing the plant indoors, check for any pests trying to hitch a ride and remove any dead leaves. Now is also a good time to trim back any dead stems. Place your potted plant in front of a bright window or under florescent lights, and water every 1-2 weeks once the top of the soil dries out. Bare Root The enemy of the bare rooted geranium is moisture. That said, you have two options when you are ready to pull your geraniums in for the winter: 1) you can wait for the soil to dry out before digging up the root ball, or 2) you can dig the root ball out of the soil, tapping off any remaining dirt and then let your plant sit out for a day or so to ensure that all excess moisture has evaporated. As with your potted geranium option, be sure to inspect your plant for any pests and cut away any dead leaves, buds or flowers. The objective for this overwintering method is to encourage the plant into dormancy and not spend any energy into supporting existing or new growth. You also have a few housing options for your plant: 1) paper bag (think landscape or grocery), 2) cardboard box or 3) tied up at the root to hang upside down. Each of these options ensures good ventilation which is critical to help ward off excess moisture and darkness, which will lull the plant into dormancy. Place your bag or box in a cool dry location such as a basement, root cellar or shed – anywhere where temperatures will remain around 55-65 degrees. Check on your plant about once a month to inspect for mold or other disease and manage as needed. Getting Ready for Spring – Breaking Dormancy About 6-8 weeks before the last frost day, inspect your plants and trim them back by one-half to two-thirds. Don’t be alarmed if your plant has lost many or all of its leaves. Plant the geranium in a pot, give it a good watering and set it in front of a bright window. Patience and care should generate the first signs of growth in the coming days and weeks and by time the risk of frost has passed, you’ll be weeks ahead of any store-bought geraniums available to gardeners. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Enhance Your Home with Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is a vine that is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. It provides a unique old world vibe to celebrate the change in season, with no additional effort by you! Aside from saving money on seasonal decorating, Boston Ivy can also be used to cover up an outdated brick façade on your home – which is much more affordable than switching out the brick itself. If you desire a little more privacy or shade on your deck or patio, Boston Ivy can also be grown in a pot and trained to spread across a deck railing, fence, or pergola, just like a screen. Boston Ivy is very versatile and can be grown as a ground cover to provide a uniform look to a garden or wooded area or used for erosion control on a slope. Hardiness Zone Boston Ivy is native to Asia, Korea, Japan and eastern China, but grows well in US Zones 4-8 How to Grow P refers Sun and Part Shade Water well until established then water periodically. Prefers average to dry well-drained soil. Vine grows best on Eastern or Northern facings walls, but grows well on Western Walls too. T olerant of a wide range of soil types and urban pollution. Fast growing and can climb 30 to 40 feet Provides berries for birds in the Fall. Vine grows and travels via small “sucker disks” which can easily be pulled down off wall. May cause some speckling on painted siding or trim. Trim back undesired growth using a scissors periodically throughout growth season (e.g. around windows, doors, roofing, etc.) For more information go to University of Minnesota Extension: https://trees.umn.edu/boston-ivy-parthenocissus-tricuspidata References: Monrovia.com Yates.co.nz Photo credits: Yates.co.nz (1), Doreen Wynja (2, 3), Mary Barnidge (4)

< Back Squash the Holiday Host Competition with a Winter Variety We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Learn more about two special squash varieties – Sugar Pumpkins and Kabocha Squash in this article. Katie Possis, Master Gardener It’s that time of year when our thoughts turn to celebrating Thanksgiving with family and friends and the joy of decorating for the holiday. We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Winter squash are fruit that grow on the vine. They are from the genus Cucurbita from the family Cucurbitaceae. There are, of course, subtle differences that set them apart from each other. This article will talk about 2 of the 12 most popular squash varieties along with interesting recipes that excite the taste buds. Sugar Pumpkins Starting with a favorite - Sugar Pumpkins are nutrient packed. For example: one cooked cup of Pumpkin has 49 calories, 76 grams of protein, 17 grams of fat and 1 gram of carbohydrate; a real booster for the immune system. Sugar Pumpkins have thick skin with sweet flesh and are less fibrous than other winter squash. For a new favorite recipe using roasted pumpkin, check out the recipe Pumpkin With Creme Fraiche, Peanut Rayu, Coriander & Spring Onion. - GIY Ireland Ltd for a real treat. Tip for choosing: make sure your pumpkin is heavier than you expect it to be when you pick it up, the skin needs to be firm and a fingernail should not pierce the skin, the stem needs to look like is has died off and is hard. A pumpkin’s stem is the seal between the stalk and fruit. Never lift the pumpkin by the stem as breaking this seal may cause molds and fungal spores which ensure speedy decay. If the pumpkin has been properly cured, it will be beautifully intact for several months. Proper curing takes a few weeks but it’s worth the effort. The pumpkin needs to be dried in the sun, kept away from rain and moisture. Do this for the top side up for 2 weeks then gently flip over for the bottom side to cure for the next two weeks. The curing process can also be accomplished inside next to a sunny window. As this point, the pumpkin is ready to adorn your front steps or buffet table. Kabocha Squash Second up, Kabocha Squash is a Japanese variety of the Cucurbita maxima species. Often used in Japanese and Korean cooking, this squash has a dark green and orange rind. Known for its nutty, earthiness, and with a kiss of sweet flavor, it is a great choice for cooking. The nutritional value of one cup of cooked Kabocha - 49 calories, 1.8 grams protein, 0.2 grams of fat, and 8 grams of carbohydrate. Great news, this squash has a lower glycemic load than a sweet potato which won’t make the blood sugar spike. A great recipe to try is Korean Braised Kabocha Squash - The Plant-Based Wok (theplantbasedwok.com) Enjoy! Tips for growing: the Kabocha squash can be grown in full sun 6-8 hours on a trellis which gives height and interest to your garden landscape. The trellis will need a minimum of two to three supports hammered into the ground deep enough for the frame to hold the heavy plant laden with large fruit. The benefits of trellising for the plant are great air circulation and room to grow as each plant will need approximately 10 to 15 feet in length. The rich deep green of the Kabocha squash pairs nicely with orange pumpkins, yellow spaghetti squash, and blues of the Hubbard of the winter squash to create a visual feast for the eyes. Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Foodblogga.blogspot.com (2)

< Back How to Avoid Problems When Gardening on your Deck Gardening on your deck or patio provides a number of benefits. It enables those in a multi-unit building an opportunity to grow plants outdoors. It provides an opportunity for those with physical limitations to garden. Growing plants on your deck or patio is a strategy for adding beauty and it might provide an opportunity to grow edibles near your kitchen. But gardening on a deck or patio does present its own potential problems. Read this article to learn how to avoid problems and how to deal with them if they occur. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Just as there are potential issues to consider when planting in the ground, there are ones that might reduce your potential to have a successful container garden outdoors. Limited Space Not all plants are appropriate for growing in a container. Since most decks or patios have limited space, you want to avoid plants that require a lot of ground space. Consider plants that can grow along trellises or can hang over the edges of your container. Select plants that are recommended for pots and therefore will fit better into small spaces. When buying plants, think about the size when they have been with you for a period of time . . . not the size at the time of purchase. Getting Adequate Sun The direction your deck faces is only one factor to consider when determining how much sun light the plants will receive. In addition, watch for trees or other structures that might obstruct the sun. Remember that the sun’s path changes as we move from spring to summer to autumn. So, trees and overhangs will have a different impact at different times in the growing season. Prevent Other Environmental Factors from Negatively Impacting Plants Heat might be a bigger factor when growing in pots. Darker pots absorb the sun’s rays causing the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly. Consider using lighter colored pots if you are noting that your plants are requiring frequent watering. Also watering your plants mid-day can cool your plants. Consider the impact of wind on your plants and on the pots in which you are growing. If your deck is higher in your building or in a location that is exposed to significant wind there are several things you might consider. · Use clay pots instead of plastic pots since they are heavier. · Select plants that are less susceptible to the wind. The following are characteristics of plants that will more readily survive in windy conditions: o Shorter plants; o Plants with smaller and narrower leaves that would be less likely to be damaged by wind; o Plants with larger root systems that more effectively anchor the plant; and o Plants that like drier conditions since the wind will dry out the soil more quickly. Beware of Pests Pests can find plants even if they are not in the ground. Different pests can be found in the soil of your container, on the exterior of the container or on the plants themselves. Many of these pests may be a nuisance but will not cause permanent damage to your plant. The University of Minnesota Extension’s Yard and Garden website is an excellent source to help identify the specific pests that are impacting your plant and to determine how to address them. Photo credits: Scaniazblogspot.com (all creative commons) (1), www.Kittlingbooks.com (all creative commons) (2)

< Back What the HECK is a CARDOON??? Had any cardoons as your vegetable lately? What’s a cardoon you say? You won’t be alone if you have never heard of this vegetable. It is more commonly grown and eaten in Mediterranean countries. However, this vegetable can be grown in Minnesota and is available in some grocery stores at this time of year. Read this article if you are interested in a vegetable that offers something different. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Invited to see someone’s “cardoons”, I wouldn’t know whether to expect a company of gerbil-like creatures romping around in a cage or necklaces made of rare berries. But imagine being presented with a dish of leaves and stalks and invited to eat the cardoons! Cardoons, it turns out, are vegetables, similar to globe artichokes. Grown from Portugal to Libya and Croatia, cardoons, with their artichoke-like flavor, were popular in ancient Greek, Roman, and Persian cuisine through the Middle Ages. They were also used in colonial America and early modern periods in Europe. Once almost entirely a Mediterranean vegetable, cardoons recently returned to the American market. Although not as common as their cousin the artichoke, you can usually find them at farmers' markets, specialty grocers, and upscale grocery stores when they are in season . Unlike artichokes, the tender young leaves and undeveloped flower stalks are eaten, not the flower bud. A winter vegetable, cardoons arrive in stores around December and hang around until early spring. They can keep for weeks in the fridge. Buy them firm and pale. Most of the top leaves will be chopped off already, making them look a lot like celery, although MUCH longer. Cardoons are perennials up to zone 7 and sometimes zone 6 (if mounded with soil during the winter), so they are grown in Minnesota as annuals. They require at least 8 hours of sunlight, and they prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.5–7.0. Add compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil. Cardoons need a lot of space to spread - plant them 2–3 feet apart in rows 3–6 feet apart. Tall varieties may need staking. Cardoons are easy to grow from seed so they can be started indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost, or you can buy container-grown plants. Cardoons need 100 days to grow from seed to harvest. Propagate cardoons by seeds, suckers, or root division. Both plants and seeds are available online. Blanch the stalks before harvest. Accomplish this by tying up the outer branches a foot or so from the top of the plant and piling soil up around the plant as it grows. This keeps sunlight from reaching the stalks which then keeps chlorophyll from forming, making the stalks more tender and easier to cook. Cardoons can be prepared a number of different ways, although – be forewarned - all of them are labor intensive. The tough ridges of the outer stalks must first be removed and many recipes require hours of soaking. But cardoons can be eaten raw, dipped in hummus or nut butter, the leaves tossed in salads, the stalks cut in pieces, fried, (after being peeled, soaked, poached and breaded), or added to stews, especially those cooked in crock pots. Additional ways to prepare cardoons after initial trimming and blanching include: Cardoons Gratin , in which they are baked with olive oil and cheese. Delicious and well worth making if you only plan to eat cardoons once in a great while. Cardoons in a bechamel sauce. Cardoon risotto . Silky, rich, and the slight bitterness of the cardoons really balances everything nicely. Blanched with bagna cauda , a garlicky-anchovy sauce. Excellent as a canape . In a salad , tossed in a vinaigrette. Simple and good. Use only the innermost stalks, washed well and sliced thin. Fried . An excellent if simple dish. Also, an unusual appetizer, especially coated in chickpea flour and fry with olive oil. And finally - are you ready for this ? - the cardoon’s flowers can be used to make cheese . The enzymes in its dried flowers, when mixed with milk, curdle, albeit slowly. Which results in a rennet which is creamier than calf’s rennet. Portugal, where the cardoon is popular, produces several cheeses using its rennet because of its earthy and tangy flavor. If you enjoy cooking unusual foods, and don’t mind a long preparation time for something really different and tasty, cardoons are for you. Enjoy this ancient and unique vegetable! REFERENCES “Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus”, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/cardoon-cynara-cardunculus/ “Cardoon”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/cardoon.html Shaw, Hunter, “Growing and Cooking Cardoons”, https://honest-food.net/contemplating-cardoons/ Smith, Annabelle K., “What the Heck Do I Do with a Cardoon”, Smithsonian Magazine , https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/what-heck-do-i-do-cardoon-180950301/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com (2)

< Back Low Cal Jerk Chicken Tacos? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener If you are trying to lose your extra ‘Covid’ pounds or working on getting back in gardening shape or just like great chicken tacos, you will love this recipe. In this offering, Master Gardener Joy Johnson still manages to find something from her garden to place into her March recipe. By the time March rolls around, we’ve all probably given up on our New Year’s resolutions, but if you are still trying to lose your extra ‘Covid 19 lbs’ like I am, here’s a low calorie (272 calories in two tacos), delicious recipe that pops with flavor. I made my own jerk seasoning, which is listed here, but you can purchase a jar of jerk spice as an alternative. Slow Cooker Jerk Chicken Tacos with Caribbean Salsa Serves 8 Ingredients for jerk seasoning: 2 T onion flakes ½ tsp each of Thyme, cinnamon, paprika, cumin, salt, nutmeg, sugar ¼ tsp black pepper 1 T dried parsley (this is the only ingredient that actually came from my garden – hey, it’s March) Ingredients: 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 T jerk seasoning Kosher salt 2 ½ lbs boneless chicken breasts 2 T lime juice ½ c orange juice 2 T chopped fresh cilantro Ingredients for Caribbean Salsa : 2 large mangos, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 1 avocado, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 2 T chopped red onion 2 T chopped fresh cilantro 2 T lime juice ¼ tsp salt Black pepper 12 extra thin yellow corn tortillas Process for the Chicken : Combine the garlic, jerk seasoning, and ½ tsp salt and spread it over the chicken. Put the chicken, the lime and orange juices, and cilantro in the crock pot. Cover and cook on high for 2 hours. Process for the Salsa : In a medium bowl, combine the mango, avocado, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, salt, and black pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove the chicken from the slow cooker and shred it with two forks. Pour any liquid left in the slow cooker into a bowl, then return the chicken to the slow cooker. Add 1 cup of the reserved liquid, just enough to moisten the chicken, and season with 1/8 tsp salt and black pepper to taste. Heat the tortillas in a skillet set over medium-high for about 30 seconds. Fill each with 1/3 cup of the chicken and 2 T of salsa. Photo credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Lilacs Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener It’s getting exciting out there! Spring has sprung, the snow has melted, and the rain is bringing us much needed moisture to help our lawns green up and our plants to bloom. One of the most anticipated early blooming shrubs are the fragrant lilacs which come in colors from white to pink to lavender. This article will tell you what you need to know about planting, pruning and some common lilac diseases. PLANTING There are several different varieties of lilacs which bloom at various times from April to mid-May, mid to late May, and May to September. They typically bloom for 10-14 days depending on the weather. Lilacs make great hedges, foundation plants and large borders. Once established they can live a very long time. Our lilac bushes lived for over 50+ years until we made the tough decision to remove them. Lilacs thrive in full sun and well drained soil high in organic matter. Too much shade reduces flowering and can increase powdery mildew. Proper spacing increases air circulation and helps prevent diseases. Two to three years after the plant is established, start fertilizing lilacs every few years with an all-purpose shrub fertilizer. New plantings grow fast when young but may take a few years to bloom. In order to ensure repeating blooms in the following year, prune lilacs immediately after blooming. This link will take you to a video from the University of Minnesota - Extension Morris on planting lilacs. DISEASES Lilacs are subject to several different diseases: · Fungal disease causes yellowing/browning of the leaves that will die back. · Lilac borers will cause sawdust, sap and frass (powdery refuse). For more information on lilac borers go to https://content.ces.nssu.edu (North Carolina Extension). · Verticillium Wilt is caused by two fungi and has no cure for this disease. · Lilac Pseudocercospora (leaf spot) . · Herbicide damage causes cupping/browning on one side of the plant and not the other. DISEASE MANAGEMENT Use proper plant care such as watering, mulching and fertilizing to help prevent disease. If you find lilac disease you can try various methods to help the shrub. You can try pruning the diseased areas out of the shrub. Remove the leaves that have fallen so they don’t keep reinfecting the shrub. Watch the plant the following year for permanent damage. If you are unsure what disease is plaguing your lilac shrub, you can send a sample to the U of M Plant Disease Clinic to be properly diagnosed. Another option, if the shrub disease is out of control, is to cut it down to the stump. Most likely, it will shoot regrowth. We did this to our backyard lilacs and the bushes came back beautifully. One last option, which we did with the assistance of a certified arborist, is to remove the diseased plants. We tried to prune out the dead and diseased branches but they looked horrible afterwards. So, we made the difficult decision to remove them all. Now on to replacing the big empty spot. Photo credits: University of Minnesota ( 1, 2, 3, 6, 7), City of Edmonton (4), Wisconsin Horticulture Extension (5)