< Back Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener The reasons cats eat grass are not clear. According to Lori Teller, at Texas A&M University, “[o]ne theory is that cat grass is a source of fiber that can either act as a mild laxative or trigger vomiting[.] When cats lived in the wild, they may have eaten grass to trigger vomiting to rid their stomachs of the non-digestible parts of the prey they ingested. It is also thought that the chlorophyll contained in the grass could serve as a mild pain reliever and help keep the cat’s breath fresh.” Regardless of the scientific reason, with the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Kitties are not horticulturists, so left on their own outside, they don’t necessarily distinguish between safe and dangerous plants. [See this list for a helpful list.] But inside, different grasses - rye, oat, wheat, barley, alfalfa, and orchard grass can be grown for cat-grass. Since I have never grown my own cat-grass, I interviewed Brianna Gohde, a Master Gardener from Ramsey County and cat-grass grower. Margie: Where do you get your seed? Brianna: You can buy cat grass seed from most pet supply stores (check the back of the seed packs for grass type(s)) or from reliable seed source catalogs in the “cover crop” or “grains” sections for a specific type. Margie: How do you start cat-grass from seed? Brianna: I treat cat-grass seed the same way I would any other seeds, though I overseed the container so that the plants grow densely. Like with any other plants started from seed, I check the seed pack for seed depth recommendations. I water just enough to keep the soil moist. It’s better to keep it on the dry side to avoid pests. Sticky traps and cats are not a good combination! To keep your cat from knocking over the container, I like to double-pot and use a string to go around both to keep them anchored. The grass grows above the strings, so it doesn’t bother the cat. Margie: Do you have a special set-up to grow it? Brianna: I use generic potting soil and tap water without problems. The grass grows best if it’s in a sunny place. I don’t often put mine under grow lights, but when I have, the grass grows in faster and looks nicer. It takes about two weeks to get tall enough for the cats to be interested in it. Margie: Do you have a favorite variety? Brianna: I have grown wheat, rye and oats. My cats haven’t noticed any difference between the types of grasses. Margie: How long does it last? Brianna: The grass starts looking bad after a couple of weeks of cat attention, but may go as long as a month, with regular care from a human. The cats often lose interest once the grass gets more than 1-foot tall but you can trim the grass down to 6-8” a few times and keep it looking tidy. Some of the grass turns yellow (as older leaves die) and some dies due to overcrowding. Compost it whenever the cat’s attention wavers or it starts looking awful. Hopefully this encourages folks to give it a try. It's a cheap thrill and an easy holiday present for kitties. Try growing this treat for your cat! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1), Brianna Gohde (2,3)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Create Frozen Luminarias Marjory Blare, Master Gardeners Frozen luminaries are both fun and beautiful to create. This article will give you suggestions on using materials you may have around the house and in your winter garden to create a frozen luminary. Here are two easy winter crafts that you can do with your little ones! Frozen Luminarias You will need: A large shallow container, at least 3” deep, perhaps 18”x14” or so. Vegetation; weeds, twigs, leaves, evergreen cuttings and so on. A pitcher or bucket to pour water into your container A tea candle or an electric candle in a mason jar. (If you choose a real candle you will also need a long lighter such as you would use for a grill. After making sure the candle is firmly fixed in the bottom of the jar, tip it sideways to light.) Make sure you take pictures of the process! Kids enjoy helping to collect the weeds. Cut them a bit longer than your container. Look for bold contrasting shapes. Colors are a bonus but not required. A monochromatic palette also creates beautiful results. Have your child arrange the various pieces in the shallow container. You might have them choose three long pieces, five medium pieces and seven or more short pieces. Cut them to fit the container. Odd numbers of pieces generally result in a pleasing composition. It can be easy to put too much into the container: you want light to be able to show through the finished composition. Don't worry about having the bottom edge all neat, this part will be buried in the snow. Gently pour about two to three inches of water over the vegetation and press down anything that floats, trying to keep them mostly below the surface. You may want to do this yourself, or make sure if your child spills, you've got a towel under it. Letting it soak indoors for a day before putting it outside can help the vegetation become waterlogged and submerge better. Put the container outdoors in a place where snow and/or other debris can't get into it, or alternately, cover it. Don't move it again until it's frozen solid or you will get cracks and air in it. After it's frozen solid, gently tap the frozen piece out of the container. Set it upright in a snow bank, packing snow at the base to help hold it upright. You can place it so that sun streams through it during the day or wait until dark, then light and place the candle behind your frozen weeds. Stand back and admire! Weeds and Buckets You will need: one or more buckets Vegetation, as above. You can use much larger and longer pieces of vegetation.- Enough water to fill the buckets about 4-5" deep. Place the tallest pieces in first, then medium, and finally the shortest pieces around the outside. You will need enough of the shorter pieces to hold the taller pieces upright, although some graceful arching is very pleasing too. Allow the water to freeze and then gently tap to remove. Place on your front porch or wherever you'd like decorations. Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses from your garden fruits and vegetables. With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses with your garden fruits and vegetables. Why Safety Tips are Needed Foodborne illness caused by the naturally occurring bacteria, viruses, molds and/or pathogens found on raw produce not carefully washed or prepared can make you sick. (Note: These microorganisms are present in your garden whether you choose to use organic or conventional gardening methods). Additionally, it is also possible to get sick from contamination of produce from chemicals, such as cleaning solutions, fertilizers, pesticides, and heavy metals (lead) and other chemicals that may be found in garden soil or well water. Safely Growing and Harvesting Produce in Your Garden Site Preparation Locate your produce gardens away from manure piles, well caps, garbage cans, septic systems and areas where wildlife or the family pets roam. Use compost safely. Compost is the natural breakdown of organic materials, and also a source of pathogens. To be safe for gardening, your compost must reach a temperature of at least 130°F. Check the temperature with a compost thermometer. Do not use any animal waste, including pet waste, meat scraps or dairy product waste, in your compost bin. Garden Maintenance Use a safe water source, such as from municipal or public water systems. Avoid lakes, streams, ponds and streams as a water source, where they can be polluted by human sewage or animal waste, fertilizers and pesticides from lawns and farm fields, or chemicals from industry. Ground water, the source for well water, is less likely to have microbial contaminants, but test your well water yearly to ensure it is safe. Curtail animals and birds near your vegetation during the gardening season, by keeping pets away, minimizing vegetation at the edges to decrease nesting and hiding places for rats and mice, and stopping feeding of wild animals and birds near your produce garden. Discourage your backyard critters with the use of fencing and noise deterrents. Harvesting Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to set your harvest in. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade. Use clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) when picking produce. Do not harvest when you are sick or have symptoms of an illness. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing produce into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce, and discard the produce that is close to these signs, or that has visible animal feces on it. Storage If you choose to wash fruits and vegetables before storing, be sure to dry them thoroughly with a clean paper towel. (Never wash berries until you are ready to eat them.) If you choose to store without washing, shake, rub or brush off any garden dirt with a paper towel or soft brush while still outside. Store unwashed produce in plastic bags or containers. Keep fruit and vegetable bins clean. When washing produce fresh from the warm outdoors, the rinse water should not be more than 10 degrees colder than the produce. If you are washing refrigerated produce, use cold water. Fruits and vegetables needing refrigeration can be stored at 40° F or less. Fruits and vegetables stored at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes) should be in a cool, dry, pest-free, well-ventilated area separate from household chemicals. Canning and Preserving: Follow the USDA guidelines and jar instructions for safe canning: https://nchfp.uga.edu Serving Always wash your hands before serving. Always wash your produce before eating. Rinse fresh fruits and vegetables under cool, running, clean water, even if you do not plan to eat the skin or rind. Never use soap, detergent, or bleach solution to wash fresh fruits or vegetables. These solutions can affect flavor and may not be safe to ingest. Most root vegetables will need to be washed (before going into the kitchen) to remove sand and soil. Use a clean bucket or spray table outside to spray or dunk the produce to remove soil. Avoid bringing the produce into your home kitchen before using, as there is more potential for cross-contamination. Avoid cross-contamination when preparing fruits and vegetables, which occurs when a clean work surface, such as a cutting board or utensil (paring knife) or uncontaminated food is contaminated by dirty work surfaces, utensils, hands or food. If you have leftover produce that has been cut, sliced, or cooked, store it in clean, air-tight containers in the refrigerator at 40°F or less. Fresh, home-grown vegetables and fruit can be a delicious pleasure. Follow these simple rules to make sure they are also safe for you and your family to enjoy. Sources: https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/manual/five-steps-food-safe-fruit-vegetable-gardening/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/harvest-your-garden-produce-safely Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Companion Gardens Are the Best Linda Stein confesses that she used to arrange her garden by separating annuals from perennials from vegetables. But she has learned that there are many advantages to mixing these different types of plants in the garden. Read this article to learn more about why you would want to mix these plant types and what types of plants you might consider. As you prepare for the upcoming summer, learn more about mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Historically, I prepared three garden plans, one for my vegetable garden; one for the garden that would house annual plants (those that cannot survive our winters); and one for additions to my perennial garden (plants that will grow year after year). However, I’ve learned that my planning should consider how to combine rather than separate these three groups of plants. This article will address the benefits of companion gardening. Season-long color To promote season-long color, consider placing annual plants next to perennials. Most perennials bloom for a short period of time. So, adding annuals is an excellent way to enhance the color in your flower garden. Not only are annual flowers relatively easy to grow but they also provide instant and season-long color. Attracting pollinators Many pollinators are attracted to the blossoms on annual and perennial plants. By locating these plants next to vegetable plants, you can encourage the pollinators to visit your vegetable plants and at the same time add beauty to your garden. Annuals are an excellent addition to your vegetable garden because, as stated above, they bloom continuously throughout the season providing a steady supply of nectar to butterflies and other pollinators. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, studies have shown that the annual flowers listed below are most attractive to pollinators: Music Box Mix Sunflower Lemon Queen Sunflower Summer Pink Jewel Salvia Purple Fairy Tale Saliva Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan Showstar Butter Daisy Dakota Gold Sneezeweed Envy Zinnia Also, perennial plants such as coneflowers, lilac, butterfly weed and asters are very attractive to butterflies and so should be considered as a neighbor plant to vegetable plants requiring pollination. Natural pest control Some plants can serve to repel specific pests. So, locating these plants near vegetable plants that are vulnerable to certain pests can serve as a natural repellant. For example, basil and marigolds have been found to be effective in reducing thrip populations in tomatoes. Marigolds’ scent has been used to repel other pests as well . . . to a varying degree of success. You can also consider planting vegetables and herbs near some of your perennials. Locating onions and garlic near rose plants can add an additional texture to your flower garden and at the same time will repel pests that can attack your rose bushes. Aphids, ants and snails aren’t huge fans of garlic. In addition, studies show that garlic has anti-fungal properties, which helps to discourage the development of fungal diseases like blackspot. There are actually three reasons that you might plant nasturtium near squash plants First, they can help to reduce the number of squash bugs. Second, their flowers enhance the appearance of the garden. Third, they provide a blossom that is edible and can be added to your salads. So, as you prepare for the upcoming summer, consider mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Photo credits: www.Havatopraksu.org , All Creative Commons (1), Linda Stein (2,3)

< Back Exploring Autumn Nature with Your Child Julie Harris, Master Gardener Summer may be over but winter isn’t here yet. Now is a great time to have some outside fun with the children in your life. Take advantage of these last days of fall to show your children how to enjoy what autumn nature has to offer. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of this time of year. Summer may be over but winter isn’t here yet. Late autumn is a great time to have some outside fun with the children in your life. Take advantage of these last days of fall to show your children how to enjoy what autumn nature has to offer. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of this time of year. Raking leaves Some of that autumn fun can also be productive. Raking and bagging leaves with your kids can make the job more fun for all. Hand your children a child-sized rake and show them how to make a pile of leaves. Make a game out of raking by making a leaf maze. If you are with more than one child, have them race to see who can make the largest pile or who can bag the most leaves. They may not last very long in the actual raking activity but they will love to jump into that big pile of leaves! Children love the interesting shapes and sizes of the brightly colored leaves. Gathering leaves together provides you with the opportunity to teach them about why leaves turn colors and fall from the trees in the autumn. Kids also love to collect the leaves. Follow up your raking activity with an arts and crafts project such as leaf pressing, tracing or cutting. And later in November, here is an idea for using fallen leaves to create some Thanksgiving art. Planting Bulbs Let your children get their hands and knees dirty as they help you plant your spring blooming bulbs (you can still plant those bulbs in November as long as the ground isn’t frozen). Your children can help you pick out a good spot to plant the bulbs. They can help you rake the area clear to dig your holes. And, they can take their child-sized trowel and help you dig the holes, drop in the bulbs and cover them up. Watch their happy faces as they see the bulbs they helped to plant, pop up in brightly colored tulips, narcissus, hyacinth or crocus in the spring. Nature walk One of the most pleasurable sensory experiences for the whole family is going for a nature walk when the leaves have turned color with some still on the trees and others fallen to the ground. Few things in nature are more beautiful than fall colors. And, can’t you just hear the rustle of crispy fallen leaves on the path as you walk through the autumn wonderland? The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum has many easy hiking trails that will delight both you and your children. And, Dakota County is lucky to have the many trails of Lebanon Hills Regional Park right around the corner. When my grandson was younger, he loved to collect “coconuts” (acorns) fallen from the oak trees in our parks. Use this interest to provide an easy math lesson as you walk by having your children count the acorns or leaves that they collect along the way. Or prepare a scavenger hunt for your children. See how many different types of leaves they can collect and then match them to the type of tree they fell from. And how about seed saving during your nature walk. After you have collected seeds, there are many different crafts and activities you can use them for, such as making seed balls, making musical instruments, curing and eating pumpkin and sunflower seeds, and on and on. Read About Nature And finally, read books with your child about autumn and the change of seasons. Here are some book ideas that are available at the Dakota County Library. Goodbye Autumn, Hello Winter , Kenard Pak Woody, Hazel and Little Pip , by Elsa Beskow Red Leaf, Yellow Leaf , by Lois Ehlert Better still, take a trip to the library and have your child pick out the books that interest them. Nature in the fall is one of life’s beautiful gifts. Take your child’s hand and enjoy it with them. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1,4), Megan Kohoed (2), Pixabay.com (3)

< Back Get to Know Your Good and Bad Weeds We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, since weeds are currently dormant, instead of focusing on a specific weed, we’ll introduce you to a valuable resource from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA) called the Minnesota Noxious Weed List . While there are some ‘good’ weeds, there also are weeds that are more than just a nuisance to the gardener. They actually represent a threat to human or animal health, our eco-systems, crops, livestock, and other property. We all have a role in knowing more about these weeds and the steps to manage or eradicate them. This Noxious Weed website also contains information on how to report noxious weeds to the county, state, or federal agencies responsible for management. Minnesota State Statute, M.S. 18.771 directs the commissioner of MDA to classify these noxious weeds into one of five categories. An overview of the categories is provided below along with a couple of examples of the weeds in that category. We encourage you to visit the link to the noxious weed list provided above to review the tables of noxious weeds and learn more about the specific plants. You may be surprised to see some familiar trees, shrubs, and flowers listed as weeds! Each plant designated as a noxious weed has its own page that includes: Pictures Scientific and common names Legal status Background Description Habitat Means of spread and distribution Impact Prevention and management Toxicity The five categories of noxious weed are: Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds Restricted Noxious Weeds Specially Regulated Plants County Noxious Weeds An additional category exists called Federal Noxious Weeds. The MDA website notes that “federal terrestrial and parasitic listed noxious weeds are prohibited in Minnesota”. These weeds are under the auspices of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and they select and enforce them. You can learn more about the federal weed program at the USDA APHIS website . Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds This weed category includes weeds that must be eradicated across the whole state. These weeds are prohibited from being transported and may not be sold or propagated in Minnesota. Examples of Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds include: Black swallow-wort, Grecian foxglove, and Tree of heaven. Black swallow-wort Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds The weeds in this category must be controlled anywhere they may be found in Minnesota. Like the previous category, these weeds cannot be transported, propagated, or sold. Examples include Canada Thistle, Leafy Spurge, Purple Loosestrife, and Wild Parsnip. Canada Thistle Restricted Noxious Weeds Restricted noxious weeds and their propagating parts are only allowed to be imported, sold, or transported if allowed by permit under section 18.82 . Examples include: crown vetch, Japanese Barberry, Garlic Mustard, and Wild Carrot/Queen Anne’s Lace. Specially Regulated Plants These weeds may be native or nonnative species that have some economic value but may also cause harm in noncontrolled environments. Ecological or economical harm may occur and there are human or animal health concerns. Examples include: Amur Maple, Norway Maple (and all cultivars), and Poison Ivy. Amur Maple County Noxious Weeds Individual county boards may designate plants as noxious weeds and prohibit them within the county’s jurisdiction. However, these designations must be approved by the Commissioner of Agriculture, who consults with the Noxious Weed Advisory Committee. If you are interested in learning more about noxious weeds in Minnesota, you can subscribe to the Noxious Weed of the Month article. Every month, you’ll get an email from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture with information on a noxious weed. To subscribe, Click here to sign up for Weed of the Month emails. We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Agriculture (1,4), University of Minnesota Extension (2), University of Minnesota Extension, Dana Boyle (3)

< Back All About Those Bee Houses Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! A quick search of the internet finds all kinds of simple or fancy kits for making bee houses. These are for solitary bees that travel alone and lay their eggs, not the bees like honeybees that live in a group hive. Here’s one child-friendly idea to try at home: Select the shelter. I found that a round tissue holder was just the right size for my 8 in tunnels, but see what you have around your house and yard. The container should be open on one side, closed on the back and have a way for rain to run off. You can decorate the house with paints or markers if you like, or leave it just as it is. Bees like all kinds of decor! Make or find your tunnels. Here, I used a combination of empty toilet paper rolls to hold everything in place, some of last year’s dried plant stems (hosta and hydrangea - they have little tunnels just right for a solitary bee to burrow inside), and some paper that I rolled around a pencil and secured with a bit of tape. Different sized tubes are nice for different bees. Secure your bee house in a location with morning sun, evening shade, and some shelter from the wind. I found a great spot where the tree branch meets the trunk of the tree and used some twine to secure the bee house. Observe your bee house from a little distance and see who moves into your new pollinator apartments. See up close how a mason bee builds and uses its nest in the diagram from the University of Minnesota - Extension below: Why would we want to invite bees to our outdoor spaces? Well, besides being pretty interesting creatures to observe, bees are part of a special group called pollinators. This group includes bees, plus butterflies, moths, wasps, flies, beetles and birds. Pollinators are important because they help plants grow fruit and seeds! When a pollinator stops by a flower on a plant to drink up some nectar (the pollinator version of a yummy and nutritious smoothie before they continue on their way), they pick up some pollen dust on their bodies. The next time they land on a flower, they drop off some of this pollen and fertilize that plant. Then comes the fruit with seeds inside. So, think about apples, strawberries, pumpkins and a whole lot of other foods and flowers. If you like any of those, the pollinators are definitely helping you! So where does the new house come in? Well, after all that hard work, pollinators need a safe and sheltered place to rest and raise their young. They don’t need fancy accommodations, but pollinators do appreciate: a place to cool down and shelter from the wind, rain and hot afternoon sun a place to lay eggs and overwinter an accessible water source a nice buffet of pollinator-friendly plants like coneflower, milkweed and bee balm nearby You may know about “social” pollinators like honeybees that live in a hive with many other bees, but did you know we can also provide a habitat for helpful “solitary” pollinators such as mason bees. About 15% of bees nest on their own and lay eggs in cavities (tunnels) like the hollow tubes of dead plants or in spaces they find in brush piles. Consider installing a bee house any time during the year and you could be helping native solitary bees find their favorite apartment! Are you interested in reading to learn more about pollinator habitats? Take a look at these books, available through Dakota County Library: Nature’s Best Hope (Young Readers Edition) by Douglas W. Tallamy “This middle grade edition of the groundbreaking bestseller will inspire kids to use their backyard to help save the plant. Tallamy encourages kids to take direct action. Some of these ideas include planting an oak tree (one of the most important tree species) at home. If that’s too large of a task, he suggests they can plant asters - a beautiful flower whose pollen bees use to feed their young.” Turn This Book Into a Beehive! And 19 Other Experiments and Activities That Explore the Amazing World of Bees by Lynn Brunelle “[This book] lets kids make a difference in the world - building a home where bees can thrive is one small but critical step in reversing the alarming trend of dwindling bee populations” - provided by publisher Interested in even more information about this topic? https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants-insects/pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/creat-nesting-habitat Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4)

< Back Put these insects under gardening law until you annihilate THEM! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the time of year when bugs, not eliminated earlier in the year, try to take over your plants. Don’t get those creepy-crawly pests ruin your houseplants. Read this article to learn how to prevent getting those bugs and how to eliminate them if they manage to creep in. THEM : A HORROR HORDE OF CREEPY-CRAWLY PESTS CLAWING OUT OF THE SOIL AND FROM UNDERNEATH LEAVES! Kill one and two take its place! Steps you can take to reduce the chances of an infestation: Chose the right plant for the place it will live; take into consider light, temperature, soil/air humidity and air circulation. Before bringing them inside, inspect stems, tops and undersides of leaves (also the pots), for insects, webbing, holes and eggs. Things you can do to treat infestations: Use a forceful stream of water to dislodge insects. Physically remove pests with fingers or tweezers. Use yellow sticky traps to trap flying insects like whiteflies, fungus gnats or thrips. Small numbers of scale insects can be scraped off with a fingernail file or the like. Re-pot using new soil and sterilized pots, making sure to thoroughly wash off old soil. Prune if a pest issue is limited to a few leaves, stems or branches. Dispose of the entire plant if it’s heavily infested. Indoor Plant Insects Aphids Fungus gnats Mealybugs Thrips Whiteflies Spidermites Scale Insects Boston Fern x x x Crotons x x x ZZ plant x x x x x x Snake Plants x x x x x x Easter Cactus x x x x Fiddle leaf fig x x x Spider plants x x x x x Monstera x x Pothos x x x Jade plant x x x Rubber plant x x x Prayer plant x x x x Air plant x x Peace Lily x x x x String of Pearls x x x African violets x x Cyclamen mites Chinese Evergreen x x x x Insecticides Aphids Fungus gnat larvae Mealybugs Thrips Whiteflies Spidermites Scale Insects Pyrethrins x x x x x Insecticidal Soap x x x x x Plant oil extracts x x x x x Neem Oil x x x Bti strain AM 65-52 * x Imidacloprid ** x x x x(soft) *Used in mosquito dunks **Toxic to Bees Insecticide Precautions: When using a product that requires mixing with water, make only as much as you expect to use in one day and use it that day. Apply chemicals outdoors whenever possible. Use a well-ventilated area to spray plants indoors. Enclose your plant in a plastic bag and seal shut. Cut a small hole and insert your spray nozzle. Spray your plant, especially under the leaves. Remove the nozzle and quickly cover the hole with duct tape. Keep it out of direct sun until dry. CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Be sure that the area you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use . Remember, the label is the law. Never use any pesticide on a plant that is moisture-stressed. Water the soil a day or two before applying pesticides. extension.umn.edu Managing insects on indoor plants With no natural enemies indoors, inspect your houseplants weekly for insect pests like mealybugs and scale. Photo credit: Marjorie Blare, artist (1)

< Back The Great Green Herb Salad For salad lovers, summertime is a celebration. Finally, we can eat fresh greens from our own gardens or, perhaps, picked up from a local farmers’ market. This article provides some ideas for making delicious salads using a variety of greens and herbs in creative ways. As you read this article, you can almost smell the scents of freshly cut greens and herbs. Liz Townley, Dakota Count Master Garden Intern It’s such a simple thing, a fresh green salad. With the right selections, a fresh green salad can be on your table within minutes. Whether you grow your own greens, get them from a farmers’ market, the grocery store or a friend, getting fresh greens can be both an easy or difficult task. Years ago, I watched a live demo at the Heritage Library in Lakeville by a gardener who knew what combinations to bring to the table. She had brought a variety of greens – basil, fennel, bok choy, thyme and butter lettuce. We watched her as she carefully laid out the greens and then carefully sliced through them releasing such a wonderful scent. The crowd watched as she explained how she adds different greens to her salads to pair with different dishes. She said that she doesn’t really obey any rules, but rather seeks what’s in season at the time. It’s the freshness of the greens and the season that determines her ingredients. We were delighted that gave out samples to us in the crowd. No dressing was used as she topped off her greens simply with a little olive oil and salt and pepper! She said if you wanted a little more tang to your salads, use a balsamic vinegar! When we go to the store, it is tempting to pick up the ready to eat prepackaged salad kits. It’s fast and convenient so we rarely think about freshness. It’s a salad, so it must be fresh, right? This is exactly why I love the summer season. Besides growing our own greens, the next best fresh thing to do is to pick up truly fresh greens from a farmers’ market. Photo credit: www.forestry.com Have you ever wondered why the greens we grow or buy from farmers’ market taste so much better than what we get from a store? Many of the salad kits are shipped from other parts of our country. We are lucky that grocery stores do carry some vegetables from local sources, but not much is in the leafy green category. Like when you cut a flower, the simple act of disconnecting a leaf from a stem starts the decay process. Some salads get moldy faster than others depending on moisture content of the leaves. Let’s take a closer look at some greens that we commonly grow here. You have your leafy herbs like basil . Basil has so many varieties. As an annual, we can grow almost any variety. It adds a nice punch of flavor especially when you slice it. Next would be the kales , spinach and Swiss chard greens that some people tend to stay away from. The kale stalk can have a little bitterness, so if you don’t like that sharpness, just pluck it off the stem. I have heard people say that they are ‘too healthy’ to eat; but they are excellent in a light olive oil, garlic and pepper sauté. Lettuce , endive and radicchio are leafy greens in the aster family. They are known as basics for making your salad. It is fun to experiment during the summer taking a lettuce and adding something that you haven’t tried in the past. I have found bok choy to be an interesting addition to my salad for its incredible crunchiness. Another surprise for me was beet greens . They are similar to Swiss chard in texture and both can be cooked. Spinach is another very versatile green that can be eaten in your salads and sandwich raw just as you would a regular lettuce leaf. It is often used in egg dishes, pastas and dips. How about making up your own combinations for a mighty green salad? This time be a little daring. Here are some ideas for making a great herb salad: p arsley, watercress, and chives shine in this easy and versatile herb salad recipe. Dress the salad with an intense, garlicky vinaigrette for a simple, healthy side dish. What is it? An herb salad is a salad made from fresh, leafy green herbs. It can include parsley, cilantro, watercress, mint, basil, chervil, or dill. And just about any fragrant leafy herb works in this recipe. The herbs you use depends on the season. Photo credit: www.virginiaespin29.blogspot.com ] Occasionally, edible flowers, such as chive blossoms, nasturtiums or violets, are also added to the salad. Some cooks add the herbs to a bed of other leafy greens, such as lettuce, arugula, or bitter greens. The salad is typically served with a vinaigrette. Key Ingredients: In this herb salad recipe, we use a base of dandelion greens and watercress and add fresh parsley, chives, and chervil. However, you can add just about any herbs you like and have on hand. Dandelion greens are a bitter, nutritious herb that is rich in beta carotene, vitamin C, vitamin K, and minerals. Dandelion salad is delicious with a bitter note, but the greens also form a foundation for other herbs in this recipe. You can also cook dandelions, as in a wilted dandelion salad. (Note – make sure not to use dandelions that have been treated with an herbicide or other chemical.) Watercress is a member of the mustard family. It has a peppery taste reminiscent of horseradish and is a nice partner for dandelion. It is also rich in vitamin K, vitamin C, and various minerals. Parsley has a clean, green flavor. It is also rich in beta-carotene and vitamin K, and is traditionally used to support the kidneys. Chervil has a delicate sweet flavor, and it tastes like a cross between tarragon and parsley. Chives bring a delicate onion-like flavor to the salad. Chives are rich in vitamin K. They also contain antioxidants called glucosinolates. These glucosinolates support cellular health in the same way as onions and garlic. Garlic helps give body and flavor to the vinaigrette, and it also balances the bitter notes of the dandelion greens. Extra virgin olive oil is the foundation of the vinaigrette. Olive oil contains a healthy mono-unsaturated fat. This helps you to absorb the fat-soluble micronutrients in leafy greens and herbs. Red wine vinega r brings a note of acidity to the vinaigrette. It’s a natural match for robust herbs – especially dandelion and watercress. Dijon mustard helps to emulsify the vinaigrette, and it also partners well with watercress, chives, and parsley. Recipe Tips: Making any salad should be straightforward. There’s plenty of latitude for experimentation and substitutions. Remember, there are a few things to keep in mind when you make an herb salad. . Forage for wild herbs , such as dandelion greens, in safe places. Stay away from roadways and fields sprayed with pesticides and other chemicals. Soak your herbs in a bowlful of cold water; then dry them in a salad spinner. This will remove grit and other debris. It also helps keep them crisp and vibrant. Discard bruised or discolored herbs . Clean your herbs thoroughly. Soak them in a bowl full of cold water; then spin them dry in a salad spinner. Use what’s available and in season . In the spring, that means dandelions, cress, and chives. In summer, you might opt for parsley, basil, and cilantro. Run the garlic through a garlic press or mince it finely for a more uniform vinaigrette. Thoroughly mix the ingredients for the vinaigrette so that it emulsifies effectively and becomes smooth. Adding them to a mason jar and shaking them thoroughly works, but so does running it through a high-speed blender. Herb Salad Recipe This simple spring herb salad features dandelion greens, peppery watercress, parsley, and chives touched with a garlicky vinaigrette. Serve it with grilled chicken or salmon or as a partner for a springtime soup. Ingredients: For the Salad 2 cups dandelion greens (torn) 3 cups watercress leaves ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley ¼ cup snipped chives ¼ cup chopped chervil For the Vinaigrette 4 medium cloves garlic minced ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Equipment: mixing bowl salad tongs or utensils Instructions: Toss all the greens into a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the garlic, salt, pepper, mustard, olive oil, and vinegar together until well-mixed and lightly emulsified. Dress the salad and serve immediately. Photo credit: www.marthastewart.com *Material from this article sourced from the University of Minnesota Extension office. * How to Make a Simple Herb Salad Nourishedkitchen.com

< Back Where Do Monarch Butterflies Go in the Winter? Julie Harris, Master Gardener Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Read about where Monarch butterflies live in the winter and why they choose that spot. Enjoy fun activities with the child in your life and butterflies. Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Well, many butterflies migrate or move from Minnesota to warmer places. In those warmer places, butterflies can also find their food sources – flowers. Since flowers in Minnesota don’t bloom in the winter, butterflies need to fly to areas of the world where they do. Some butterflies who already live in warm climates, will move to a different location because if they stay in one place, butterfly caterpillars will eat all of the available food. Butterflies usually start to migrate in September or October, depending on the weather. Monarch butterflies spend their winter in Mexico and Southern California. (Can you find these places on a map?) Monarch butterflies are the only butterflies to migrate so far away (2,500 miles) each year. In Mexico, the butterflies live in oyamel fir trees and return to the same trees every year. What is really strange, is that these butterflies are not the same butterflies who migrated to these Mexican trees in the prior year. These butterflies were born around mid-August and are the great-great-grandchildren of the butterflies who migrated in the earlier year. So, how do the younger monarchs know which trees to fly to? Scientists think that Monarch butterflies rely on instinct, the sun and magnetic compasses to know where to go. In the spring, the Monarch butterflies fly back to Minnesota because the type of food that they eat is not available to them in Mexico. One sad fact is that the winter homes of the Monarch butterfly are endangered because people are cutting down their favorite trees to build things like roads and houses. In Minnesota, we can help Monarch butterflies to survive by planting milkweed plants and not using poisonous sprays on our plants. References: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/do-butterflies-migrate/ https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/monarch-migration Activity Help your little one appreciate beautiful butterflies by choosing one or more of these activities: Plant a milkweed plant in your garden Go out into the garden and look for butterflies; take a picture and try to identify the type Draw a picture of the life cycle of a butterfly Cut out and decorate paper butterflies Make a butterfly mask Read Gotta Go! Gotta Go! by Sam Swope. This book tells the story of a caterpillar who knew she had to get to Mexico but didn’t know how she would get there. She crawled on her way until she began to grow tired, and hung from a branch, tucked into her chrysalis. When she woke up, she continued her journey until she finally came across a valley with millions of butterflies just like her. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gotta-Go-Picture-Book-Sunburst/dp/0374427860?&linkCode=ll1&tag=wear03e-20&linkId=c6d48ce27484e684775797fa673e9ca4&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Monarch Butterfly by Gail Gibbons. This is a non-fiction book that is clearly written, beautiful illustrated, and packed with scientific facts for kids. This book touches on the life cycle, habitat, migration, body parts, and behavior of monarch butterflies. Dakota County Library Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=monarch+butterfly+gail+gibbons&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 https://kidworldcitizen.org/books-videos-migration-monarch-butterflies/ Photo credits: pixabay.com (1), Sageandzoo.com Creative Commons (2)

< Back Buckthorn Removal Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn control is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, how can the home gardener attack this problem? The best time to find and remove buckthorn is in the fall and early spring. If you are lucky enough to have just a few small plants, you can pull the seedlings and check for new plants every year that may have taken root. For more established infestations, first remove all the berry producing buckthorn on your property as this limits the buckthorn’s ability to multiply. For larger infestations, you may want to remove the buckthorn in sections at a time. Buckthorn plants that are less than 2 inches in size can be removed by hand or by using an Uprooter or Root Talon. Plants greater than 2 inches in size should be cut at the soil surface using hand tools, chain saws, or brush cutters. Buckthorn that has been cut at the soil surface must be chemically treated or it will return with a vengeance. Chemical options include treating the stump immediately after cutting with Garlon 3A/Vastlan, Garlon 4, or other brush killers with triclopy or glyphosate (Roundup/Rodeo) to prevent re-sprouting. You can also try non-chemical treatment which includes covering the stump and flare with a tin can or black plastic. Use nails to affix the can or tie to affix the black plastic. If you’re treating buckthorn near water, use an herbicide labeled for aquatic use. For how and when to dispose of buckthorn, refer to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s “Guide to Removal and Disposal of Noxious Weeds in Minnesota.” Many compost sites will also accept buckthorn, but be sure to check with your county for suggestions on disposal. Controlled burning may be an option but will need to be done every 2-3 years. Some cities may haul away your cut buckthorn. Check with your city for their policies. Finally, buckthorn is a persistent uninvited plant. Even after removal, keep checking your garden for new sprouts and remove them immediately to avoid a larger infestation. There are many hardy and attractive native plants available to fill the areas where you have removed your buckthorn. For more information on buckthorn removal, click on the following links: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/buckthorn/control.html or Common buckthorn (umn.edu) Photo credits: Friends of the Park (1), Minnesota DNR (2), Deviant Art (3)