< Back Attracting Monarch and Swallowtail Butterflies to your garden Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the sweetest events in a Minnesota June, is the appearance of butterflies in the garden. These delicate creatures are not only astonishingly beautiful but a key link in a healthy environment. In this article, you will learn about the life cycles of two butterfly species - Monarch and Swallowtail; along with what plants to grow to encourage them to take up residence in your garden. One of my favorite times of the year occurs when the butterflies arrive and grace my gardens. When I installed my gardens a few years ago, it was with the intention of attracting Monarchs so that I could teach my daughter (now 9 years old) about this gorgeous butterfly and the importance of supporting our pollinators. This interest continues to strengthen each year as we support generations of Monarchs that move through our gardens and then off into the world. There are two critical elements for attracting butterflies: 1) a host plant and 2) a nectar source. If you share an interest in inviting either Monarchs or Swallowtails to your garden, I will show you how to attract them, support their young and nourish the adults. Monarchs Host Plant The Monarch is very picky when it comes to its choice of a host plant, but for good reason! The one, and only preferred host plant for the Monarch, is Milkweed, and it was chosen due to the milky sap that young Monarch caterpillars ingest, which offers protection against hungry predators looking for a caterpillar snack. One thing that I have noticed is that if you have little sprouts of milkweed that pop up at the edge of your flower bed, you will likely find a good population of eggs under the tiny leaves. The reason Monarchs use the smaller plants at the edge of the garden is because the eggs, while further away from the larger host plant, are also further away from eager predators who monitor the host plant for eggs and caterpillar. So, before you thin out your garden, check under the leaves for eggs! Monarchs will also lay eggs near Butterfly Weed which caterpillars will feast on. Lifecycle Adult Monarchs usually show up in May, scouting the area for nectar sources and for their host plant. Monarchs have 4 generations. The one that shows up in May were born in the prior year, at the end of the season, in August or even September, and have made the great migration back home, from Mexico. ● Eggs take 3-5 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next instar stage for a total of 5 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● At the conclusion of the 5th instar stage, the caterpillar will move to a high location, hang upside down and form a “J” which is known as a pre-pupa stage. The caterpillar will shed its final skin and will encase itself inside a chrysalis where it will slowly develop into a butterfly ● The butterfly will complete its development 8-15 days later, again depending on temperature. ● When the butterfly emerges from its chrysalis it will look small, its wings accordioned up near its center. The butterfly will slowly pump its wings to dry the wings and to start blood flow until the wings are fully expanded. This process takes less than 30 minutes then the butterfly is ready to go find a nectar source and a mate and the cycle starts again. Swallowtails Whenever I spot a Swallowtail Butterfly in my garden, it is a special delight and while in previous years I have focused exclusively on attracting monarchs, I have decided to make a concerted effort to attract Swallowtails which will provide a great reason to swing by my local garden center again! Host Plants To attract Swallowtails to your garden, plant members of the parsley family: ● Parsley ● Dill ● Fennel ● Carrot ● Queens Anne’s Lace ● Golden Alexander ● Common Rue (or others in the Rue Family) Lifecycle Unlike the Monarch, there are only 2 generations of Swallowtails: those active between Mid-May and Mid-June and those active in early September and will overwinter until the next year. ● The eggs take 4 to 9 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next stage for a total of 4 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● Once the caterpillar enters the pupal stage, it will take 9 to 18 days to emerge, unless it is in the generation that overwinters ● The caterpillars that overwinter in their chrysalids can protect themselves from freezing by making glycerol which is like anti-freeze Finally, to attract any pollinator to your gardens, including butterflies, a diverse selection of nectar sources is a must: Common Nectar Sources : ● Milkweed ● Butterfly Weed ● Zinnia ● Coneflowers ● Pye Weed ● Lantana ● Aster ● Goldenrod ● Salvia ● Butterfly Bush ● Bee Balm ● Cosmos ● Phlox ● Blazing Star ● Lavendar ● Black Eyed Susan ● Anise Hyssop To help attract and support future generations of butterflies year over year, set your garden up to have continual blooms throughout the growing season. Older generation butterflies will need your help as the weather cools by having access to late blooming nectar sources as fall approaches. When in doubt, or if your garden is closing shop early, stick some discounted, end-of-season annuals in pots, the butterflies will thank you! Photo credits: Cheryl Schultz, Washington State University; WSU Newsletter (1), www.flickr.com (2), Maryland Department of Natural Resources (3), Alabama Butterfly Atlas; usf.edu (4), Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Extension (5)

< Back What Will This Warm Winter Do To My Plants And Is Dakota County Warmer? Some of us enjoyed our strangely warm winter and others of us mourned the lack of snow and cold temperatures. But for gardeners, the main concerns now center around questions like – what effect will the warm, snowless winter have on my plants; on how I prune my trees and shrubs; and what about the bug population? And looking beyond this year, is Minnesota warming? And, if so, what does that mean for the plants I have or will plant? Read this article for some answers to your questions. Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener & Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener How Will the Warm Winter Affect My Plants This Year? The lack of cold and snow may have some effect on your plants, shrubs and trees but there are some things that you can do now, and in the future, to mitigate the damage. Which plants are likely to be affected depends somewhat on your fall preparation and on other factors, such as the plant species. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension experts have prepared an excellent article that provides answers to all of these questions. Click this link to access a thorough discussion and practical advice for dealing with the effects of our warm winter. How does the 2023 hardiness zone change affect my garden? The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) produces a “plant hardiness zone map,” which is a tool based on average annual extreme winter temperatures. The zone map can help gardeners decide which plants may grow well in their garden. Of course, other factors affect whether a plant will thrive in your garden, notably - soil, sun, water and care. But the zone map is a helpful tool and so is something of which you should be aware. In 2023, the USDA updated the zone maps for the first time since 2012. The 2023 USDA hardiness zone map documents the average minimum temperatures of weather from 1991 to 2020. There are 13 zones in the USDA zone map, divided into 10 degree increments. The larger numbers are warmer zones and smaller numbers are cooler zones. Each zone is also divided into half zones (“a” and “b”) which indicate a 5 degree change in temperature. It’s a pretty good bet that a plant that can thrive in zone 13 is not going to thrive in zone 4. So, the farther south you are the warmer it gets, right? Well, not always. In the 2012 zone map, Dakota county was in the 4b zone . In the 2023 zone map, parts of Dakota County are in 5a (-20 to -15) and others are in 4b (-25 to -20). Significantly, the 2023 map is able to show variations due to “heat sinks” near cities, mountains and bodies of water. In other words, cities tend to hold more heat because they include large areas of concrete and blacktop. Areas of the county closer to the Twin Cities are actually warmer than farther south! But note that more of southwestern Minnesota is now in the 5a zone as well. Being aware of your zone will allow you to make better choices when you buy plants. Plants that were once marginally hardy in the Dakota County area may now have a higher chance of surviving. When you buy a plant at your local nursery, they may have a tag that gives you the zones in which it is hardy. Before, you might have passed over “Reticulated Iris” (zones 5-9). Now, if you live in an area in the (5a) heat sink of the Twin Cities, you might give it a shot. References: blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu Updated USDA hardiness zoning maps Madeline Wimmer, Extension Educator, Fruit Crops Images: The new 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Minnesota (left) and previous from 2... extension.umn.edu A new plant hardiness zone map from the USDA Using data collected from over 13,000 weather stations during a 30-year period, the new USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides higher resolution and more accurate zonal information. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons), Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Mary Barnridge, Master Gardener Intern Consider composting to reduce costs of fertilizer and mulch for your garden, improve the quality of sandy or compacted soil, and save time and money with fewer trips to the store. Composting is an environmentally friendly alternative. ? Do your plants start to yellow as summer wanes? This could be an indication of a nitrogen deficiency in the soil (e.g. fertilizer). Compost provides nourishment to plants throughout the growing season. ? Do you struggle with keeping soil from drying out extensively during hot and dry periods? Compost can be used to retain moisture and encourage plant growth – in both garden plots and patio pots. ? Do you have plants that are struggling to thrive because the soil is too compacted from excessive moisture, or foot traffic, or perhaps it is sandy and drains too quickly? Compost can be used as a soil amendment to enrich the soil and address compaction and drainage issues. Making Your Own Compost - The Basic How-Tos Build the Compost Structure Locate he compost structure taway from your home but close enough to the garden to which it will be applied. Keep it away from drying winds and ensure it has at least partial sunshine each day. There are several materials that can be used to create the compost site: Wire fencing, brick/cinder block, a metal cylinder or wood/wire structure. Layer in the Initial Materials to Begin the Compost Process Build your compost pile in layers. Begin with eight to ten inches of leaves, grass or plant trimmings. Water it to the point of being moist, but not soggy. Sprinkle the pile with one-third to one-half cup of nitrogen-rich fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area (a 5' x 5' bin). You may choose to add a one-inch layer of soil or completed compost over the fertilizer to increase the number of decomposing microbes in the pile. Repeat these layers until the pile reaches a height of five feet, watering each time you add new layers. If your pile contains large amounts of acidic materials such as pine needles or fruit wastes, you might add lime, but no more than one cup per 25 cubic feet of material. Feed the Compost Site Many organic materials can be used as compost: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Non-woody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds What you shouldn’t include: Do not compost diseased or insect-infested plants and weeds. Do not compost meat, bones, grease, whole eggs and dairy products However, Dakota County accepts many of these items in their food scrap/organics drop off sites. For more information, including sign up and collection locations visit the Dakota County drop off site webpage . Pet litter should not be used in your home compost and is not accepted through the Dakota County program. Dakota County Food Scrap Drop Off Site. Dakota County Food Scrap Bins. Maintenance Turn the pile once or twice a month to help speed decomposition. Water your compost pile periodically to keep it moist but not soggy. You may add a small amount of new material to be composted but if you have a lot of new material, it is better to start a second batch. Your compost pile will be ready in two to four months in the warm season, provided you have watered and turned it regularly. Unmaintained piles may take over a year to decompose sufficiently. When it’s ready to use, your compost pile will be about half its original height, and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Use it or Lose it Use it as mulch in annual or perennial garden or patio pots Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the base of plants. Add more layers over the initial layer throughout growing season. The mulch can also be worked into the soil at the end of the growing season for annual gardens. Use it as a soil amendment For sandy soil, add and incorporate 1 inch of compost in the top 6 inches of soil. For compacted, clay soil, add 2 inches of compost to the top 8 inches of soil. Repeat annually Use it in potting soil One-quarter to one-third of potting mix may be compost. For more information about composting visit this University of Minnesota Extension site . References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Mary Barnidge (2 and 3)

< Back Rain Gardens Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Read this article to finds ways to do it. Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Roof tops, roads, driveways and sidewalks create impervious surfaces. These surfaces cannot absorb water. If rainwater and snow melt is not able to be absorbed into the soil, run-off occurs. Run-off can carry sediments and pollutants such as oil, pet waste, debris and nutrients from lawn clippings and fertilizers. These pollutants can then end up in our rivers and lakes. Even municipal storm sewers may lead directly to rivers and lakes. Simply put, a rain garden is a shallow depression filled with selected trees, shrubs, flowering plants and grasses designed to allow rainwater run-off to absorb into the soil. Rain gardens help to filter pollutants, absorb nutrients and allow sediments to settle before entering the ground water. Rain gardens are also useful in controlling erosion by trapping and allowing the water to infiltrate rather than run down a slope. Also, rain gardens may add interest and beauty to a landscape, or add elements to attract butterflies and birds. While rain gardens are a popular trend right now, not all landscapes offer suitable sites. There needs to be enough room to allow water to be absorbed into the soil and not seep into a nearby building or basement. Also, if the soil is heavy clay or already saturated ponding may occur; and ponds have a different purpose in the landscape. Some situations can be amended to allow for proper infiltration. In these cases it is best to consult a specifically trained professional. Dakota Soil Water & Conservation District offers Landscaping for Clean Water workshops in rain garden design and implementation. Site selection, size, shape, choosing proper plants and other materials, and maintenance are all topics covered in the workshops. Demonstration sites have been planted as part of previous workshops to show how attractive and beneficial rain gardens may be.

< Back Making Delicious Meals with Hardy Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Master Gardener Joy Johnson is an accomplished vegetable grower but even she struggled this year with the effects of the hot weather and drought on her crops. Still, she offers 4 tried, true and delicious recipes for using the vegetables that were garden champions this year. You will want to read this article for inspiration in the kitchen! It’s the first of August and I’m hoping your garden is flourishing this month. I must tell you, with the drought and the rain and the storms, some of my veggies are doing great and some are struggling along. Gardening is always a gamble, we do our part to plant, weed, fertilize, mulch and water, but sometimes even with all that TLC our veggies might not produce like the seed catalogs promised they would. I consider it a challenge. My garden has thrown down the gauntlet, asking me if I can make something nutritious and delicious with its sometimes-meager offerings. I accept that challenge! Since I like to eat lighter in the summer, I have been focusing on soups and salads. Here are a couple of soup recipes and a colorful salad. The Italian Garden Vegetable Soup is vegetarian and is quick and easy to make. The Zuppa Toscana is my hack of Olive Garden’s soup of the same name. This is a heavier cream-based soup, and makes great use of tons of kale, which you may have in abundance right now! And the Broccoli Slaw is a triumph over critters and heat. This month I also included a Martini drink recipe. My brother and I grow lots of basil and this cocktail that he came up with is a cool, refreshing use of basil. Grapefruit is one my favorite fruits. You can use canned grapefruit juice, but fresh squeezed elevates this cocktail to a gourmet level. Italian Garden Vegetable Soup (makes 6-8 servings) 2 medium zucchinis, sliced 2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced 1 small or medium eggplant, peeled and diced 6 medium tomatoes, diced (whatever variety you grew are fine) 2-4 ears of corn, kernels cut off the cob (steam first, then it’s easier to cut them off) 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups veggie broth (store bought or homemade) 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (dried is fine too. You’ll see I used dried in the photo. My parsley didn’t do well this year, but I have plenty of dried from last year) 1/4-1/2 tsp onion salt Salt and pepper Place all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to steam vegetable in broth for 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper if you’d like. Zuppa Toscana (make 8-10 servings) 1 large white onion diced 1 ½ pounds ground Italian sausage. I have a home blend of venison and spicey Italian port sausage that is quite spicey. You can use a mild Italian sausage or a spicier variety depending on how much heat you want. 7 small red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 1-2 tsp red chili flakes (don’t use this if you use a spicier sausage) 1 pint whipping cream 1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, and leaves chopped Chicken bouillon powder. In a large pot, brown the onion and sausage; drain fat. Add potatoes, broth, water, and chili flakes. Cover pot and bring to a boil for about 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream. Soup will thicken the longer you keep it warm and stirred. Mix kale into hot soup for about the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning with small addition of bouillon, if desired. Cashew Broccoli Slaw (makes 6 servings) I grew tiny cabbages, a couple of red ones and a couple of green ones (lots of insect damage). But you don’t need a lot to make this tasty salad. My broccoli also didn’t produce much. I consider it a triumph that I can use what I grow to make something good regardless of its quantity or quality. Dressing: 1 cup plain yogurt 1/3 cup sugar 1 T apple cider vinegar In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, and vinegar until smooth. Salad: 1 medium sized head of broccoli, washed, peel the stems and chop 1 small head of red cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 small head of green cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 carrot, grated or julienned ¼ cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup raisins or craisins 1 cup cashew pieces, salted Add broccoli, cabbage, green onions and raisins/craisins to the bowl. Fold slaw mixture into dressing until evenly coated. Chill until ready to serve. Toss cashews into the salad right before serving. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 springs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back Extend the Growing Season with Greenhouses Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener The doldrums of winter are upon us and gardeners are drooling over seed catalogs and dreaming of fresh vegetables and riots of flower colors. But spring planting is still several months away. This is an excellent time to research gardening season extenders such as greenhouses, cold frames, and low tunnels. They could help you start your growing season sooner in the spring and last longer in the fall. To determine which one(s) will best meet your growing needs, there are some key questions you will want to ask yourself and information you’ll want to consider. This article explains the basics and provides helpful resources to move your from – that’s interesting to – I’d like to try that in my yard. The doldrums of winter are upon us and gardeners are drooling over seed catalogs and dreaming of fresh vegetables and riots of flower colors. But spring planting is still several months away. This is an excellent time to research gardening season extenders such as greenhouses, cold frames, and low tunnels. They could help you start your growing season sooner in the spring and last longer in the fall. To determine which one(s) will best meet your growing needs, there are some key questions you will want to ask yourself and information you’ll want to consider. A greenhouse can be described as a place to grow plants inside. Greenhouses can be heated or unheated. They are usually made of glass or plastic to enable light to shine through and they have a roof. Using the sun, the greenhouse captures heat and light. This then generates warmth for plants to grow. Greenhouses also allow gardeners to control the environment because plants grown inside the greenhouse are not subject to the wind, variable rain amounts, and temperature extremes. You may be able to manage pests like insects more easily, and that means you can use fewer pesticides. And if you, like many of us, are plagued by rabbits or deer, you may be able to keep them away from your plants, too! Unheated Greenhouses An unheated greenhouse allows a gardener to start plants earlier in the spring and extend the harvest season longer into the fall months, but it will not be usable during the winter. To use a greenhouse all year in Minnesota, it needs to be heated. Heated greenhouses increase the costs not only of construction but also for operation. (More on heated greenhouses, known as “Deep Winter Greenhouses” below.) Determining the purpose of the greenhouse will help you decide which option is best in terms of function and costs. Greenhouses may be standalone or may be an added structure to your house, garage, or sheds such as a lean to. They need to be placed in a location that receives full sun. Next, you need to determine the building materials, which will be based on whether you want a heated or unheated greenhouse. Size may be dictated by your available space, availability to sunlight, and how you hope to use your greenhouse. Sizes can range from tabletop greenhouses to a tent-like shelf structure to large buildings with room for several people to work simultaneously. Greenhouses need to be anchored so they don’t fly away or tip over. They need ventilation to provide air flow but also to vent excessive heat so plants don’t burn or keep warmth in on colder days. Flooring needs to allow for drainage and prevent weeds from growing. And once the structural items are addressed, shelving and benches to hold the plants and other supplies will need to be selected. If a greenhouse doesn’t fit in your budget, you may consider these options, which may be less expensive, to extend your growing season. For individual plants, you could use a cloche, which is sometimes called a bell jar. It protects individual plants from cold temperatures and other weather extremes. Cold frames, which are essentially mini-greenhouses, can be created using old windows, doors, or other building materials, with glass or plastics. They are an excellent method for starting some seeds, especially the cool weather loving plants like lettuce, broccoli, spinach, cauliflower. They can also be used to get seeds started indoors used to being outside without full exposure to the cold, wind, or rain. Another option you may be less familiar with is low tunnels, which are usually temporary structures that basically create a barrier to the elements like wind, cold, excessive rain, and pests. They can be built with PVC pipe, electrical conduit, or rebar that are used to create hoops that are covered by plastic. The plastic can be purchased at home improvement stores or local hardware store and is recommended to be between 0.8-2 mil. Deep Winter Greenhouses Greenhouses in Minnesota must be heated to be usable year-round, unless they are constructed using Deep Winter Greenhouse (DWG) methods. This is a new approach to creating a year-round growing environment in the cold North, enabling gardeners and producers to grow vegetables in a non-heated structure. Building a greenhouse with heat and operating the heating source, as well as the maintenance costs, can become costly and often make them unobtainable for the majority of home gardeners. The University of Minnesota Extension calls DWGs passive-solar greenhouses that use energy from the sun to generate heat. This lessens the need to use traditional heating methods. This is accomplished by careful alignment of the building structure in an east-west position. The south facing direction is built out of a glazing wall, which can be angled based on the latitude of the site to maximize solar energy. This is advantageous for northern climates especially on very cold days. Inside the DWG, the air heats up, is blown underground, and stored in a thermal mass made of soil or rocks, essentially acting like a battery. While this does create a great growing environment, DWGs are not suitable for all plants. Plants that do best grow in minimal light and include lettuces, herbs, Asian greens, sprouts, and brassicas e.g., bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, choy sum, kohlrabi, napa cabbage, rutabaga, turnip. The initial set-up costs for DWGs, with an estimate of $18,583 to build ($33 per sq ft) with annual costs ranging from $35 to $2,148 depending on what fuel sources are used, how many seeds are purchased and quantity and type of soil and amendments are used. There Regional Sustainable Development Partnerships (RSDP) and Center for Sustainable Building Research have created a DIY version of the DWG Starting a DIY Deep Winter Greenhouse Operation on a Budget . Aimed more toward farmers than backyard gardeners, it may still provide some information that may be useful on a smaller scale. The RSDP also provides blueprints, construction manuals, resources, and information on other types of solar greenhouses. This has been a very brief overview of greenhouses and other growing season extenders. To learn more about different types of greenhouses, structural options, building materials, and alternates to greenhouses like cold frames, low tunnels, and cloches, explore these links: Very Small Greenhouses for Backyards from University of New Hampshire Extension The Hobby Greenhouse from Oklahoma State University Extension Extending the Growing Season in Your Garden from University of Minnesota Extension Extending the Garden Season from Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension References Garden Gate, March 2024 University of Minnesota Extension University of New Hampshire Extension Oklahoma State University of Extension Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension University of Minnesota Extension Deep Winter Greenhouses: https://extension.umn.edu/growing-systems/deep-winter-greenhouses This article contains numerous additional resources, guides, cost-benefit analysis, and information Winter Greenhouse Enterprise Analysis: https://extension.umn.edu/community-research/winter-greenhouse-enterprise-analysis A report detailing eight enterprises in the Upper Midwest New deep winter greenhouse design available for download: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/12/new-deep-winter-greenhouse-design.html Deep Winter Greenhouses grow fresh greens year-round: https://extension.umn.edu/source-magazine/deep-winter-greenhouses-grow-fresh-greens-year-round National Center for Appropriate Technology: https://attra.ncat.org/topics/greenhouses/ Photo credits: Oklahoma State University Extension (1), University of Utah Yard and Garden Extension (2,3,5), University of Minnesota Extension (4,6)

< Back Junior Winter Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. CALLING ALL JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. NOTE: Adults can help guide, or work together with, their child through this project. Utilize the books mentioned later in this article to reinforce the information from this article and to assist younger children in learning the concepts. Junior Winter Garden Detectives - Let’s find out where birds, common Minnesota animals, turtles, frogs and insects live in Minnesota winters. Some creatures migrate, or move, to a warmer part of the world in late summer or fall. Many others remain here in Minnesota. But, where are they all? Often, they are not so easy to see. By READING the clues from the information below, you will be able to solve the case of the hiding winter creatures by looking in your own backyard or neighborhood park. THE CLUES BIRDS - When the cold and wind of a Minnesota winter settles in, watch for birds to make a roost and group together in the holes of trees, next to trees or a thicket of pines . Insect eating birds fly South for the winter so they can eat insects from open water in warmer climates. The remaining birds can survive on the seeds, berries and garden waste found in our yards and parks during the cold weather. Sometimes people leave seed in bird feeders to help these birds survive during the cold days. Just like humans, birds keep warm with their down coat; that is, their feathers. Some common Minnesota winter birds are cardinals, finches, blue jays and woodpeckers. DEER AND SQUIRRELS - Look around and you will see many animals, including deer and squirrels, in your local landscape. Deer stay active and hang out by stands, or groups, of pine trees . These trees, called conifers, keep their needles all year round so snow can easily collect on their branches and keeps the forest floor warm and dry underneath for a cozy gathering spot. The common gray squirrel can be seen occasionally popping out from their nests in tree cavities or leaf and piles collected from trees in the fall and thickened by moss. You can view the squirrels scampering around nearby their nests to retrieve the food they hoarded in the fall, foraging on pine cone seeds, or stealing from the bird feeder in your yard. TURTLES AND FROGS - Keep a sharp eye open for turtles hibernating, or sleeping all winter, at the bottom of a pond or lake, digging themselves into the mud of the water's bottom , where the temperature stays warmer and more stable than up at the top of the water's surface. Frogs can be found in two different areas, depending on the type: 1. Aquatic frogs hibernate in the water near the bottom of the stream or pond where they breathe oxygen from the water through their skin; and, 2. Tree and wood frogs become dormant under leaves and plants from the past growing season in our garden and then freeze solid for the winter months. These frogs’ bodies use a special process where a natural antifreeze, called glycerol, keeps their organs from fully freezing . Carefully look under some leaf piles and you might see a frog that looks dead but really is just temporarily frozen. How is this possible?! All good detectives verify their clues--see below for more information on this special antifreeze process. INSECTS - Minnesota insects survive winter by migrating, by tolerating the cold or by avoiding the cold. Monarch butterflies migrate 3,000 miles to the warm south. The Banded Woolly Bear caterpillar tolerates the cold by becoming dormant underneath leaf litter and a blanket of snow, similar to the tree and wood frogs, after producing special antifreeze called glycero l, which keeps its cells from bursting when they freeze. (See the scientific process below). Bees hibernate in winter in one of three ways: in the ground, in flower stem cavities or, for bumble bee Queens, under leaves and brush. Most bees in Minnesota are ground nesters who burrow into bare soil to stay warm in winter and lay eggs for spring. Look for a small ¼-½ hole for a tunnel in the soil without a lot of plant cover to get a glimpse of where a bee might be in its winter slumber. You will need to wait until spring before you see a bee emerge! Some other bees take winter shelter and lay eggs in the hollow of flower stems . A garden left for a spring cleanup, instead of in the fall, will reveal hollow stems where flowers once were. Imagine bees and their eggs resting, safe from the harsh winter conditions. Bumble bee queens prefer to tuck into leaves or brush left in the garden, often near pollinator plants. The workers have died in the fall, while the Queens are left to start new colonies in the spring. READ READ these children’s books to do additional detective work with your child to see how creatures live in winters. Winter Dance by Marion Dane Bauer, tells about a red fox's discovery of how to live in the winter while learning about what some other creatures do for homes in the winter. Available at the Dakota County libraries. ISBN: 9780544313347 or, buy at Amazon : Over and Under the Snow by Kate Messner and art by Christopher Silas Neal, takes you along a cross country ski family adventure to what creatures are out and about in the winter. Available at Dakota County library. ISBN: 9780811867849, or buy through Amazon : DO EVIDENCE: WHAT IS IT LIKE FOR THE FROG AND BANDED WOOLLY BEAR CATERPILLAR TO HAVE ANTIFREEZE Once you gather all your clues, every good detective verifies the clues. Our clues show an amazing antifreeze process for tree and wood frogs and the banded woolly bear caterpillar, which allows these critters to live in the Minnesota winter. Using your detective skills, let’s do the following experiment to see what the antifreeze is like in the frogs and caterpillars. Supplies Any Gelatin Hot water from tap (not boiling), amount used in gelatin instructions Small paper cups (or small ziplock bags) Tablespoon Directions Follow the instructions to prepare the gelatin, but using warm water (not boiling). Fill a paper cup with about 1 tablespoon of the prepared gelatin. Put the cup in the freezer for about 20 minutes. (The antifreeze process for frogs occurs in about 20 minutes). When the time has elapsed, take the cup out of the freezer. You will notice the gelatin is part frozen, part liquid. The mixture is similar to the liquid in the organs of these creatures that stays cold but not frozen so they can survive being dormant in the winter. SOLVE THE CASE: FIND THE ANIMALS The last step for Junior Winter Garden Detectives is to find the animals or their homes outside! Put on your winter boots or snowshoes and go search to solve the case. Make notes on the checklist provided below or make a photo journal of the winter garden homes you find. JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVE CHECKLIST Check off the creatures you see outside. For the critters that go dormant, use your imagination and find a spot that might be their winter home. Note: Since they are trying to stay warm, it might take a few visits outside before you complete the list. Optional: list where you see them or take a photograph. 1.Birds 2. Deer 3. Squirrels 4. Turtles 5. Aquatic Frogs 6. Tree and wood frog 7. Banded Woolly Bear Caterpillar 8. Bees- A. Ground Nester B. Flower Stem Cavities C. Bumble Bee Queens SOURCES How Do Critters Survive Minnesota Winters https://www.southwestjournal.com/voices/livin-thing/2019/01/how-do-critters-survive-minnesota-winters How Evergreens Provide a Winter Oasis for Wildlife https://www.plt.org/educator-tips/evergreens-winter-wildlife/ Common Winter Birds in Central Minnesota https://www.friendsofthewildflowergarden.org/pages/seasonal/birdswinter.html How Do Frogs Survive Winter? Why Don't They Freeze to Death? https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-do-frogs-survive-wint/ Woolly Bears in the Snow https://carpenternaturecenter.org/woolly-bears-in-the-snow/ Give Bees a Chance: Fall Cleanup for Pollinators https://www.anokamastergardeners.org/blog/give-bees-a-chance-fall-cleanup-for-pollinators Minnesota Master Naturalist Explorers Winter Curriculum https://www.minnesotamasternaturalist.org/docs/Explorers/Winter_curriculum_.pdf Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9), Donald Lorr (8)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoke Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo Credit: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. On the positive side, black walnut trees have been prized by furniture makers, carpenters, and wood carvers for their beautiful dark grained wood. Their tree nuts make it an excellent variety to plant for wildlife. Squirrels like to bury the tree nuts for later eating. Humans also like to pick the nutmeat out of the green covering and walnuts are a popular not for use in baking muffins, cookies, and bars. The tree is found across the northern United States among other forest trees. Single stands of black walnut trees are usually not found, instead a single tree will tower above other deciduous trees in the forest. The black walnut can grow to 100 feet tall with deep furrowed dark bark and thick branches, which makes it a great shade tree. Leaves have 11-13 leaflets along a toothed spear. The tree likes moist well drained soils along creeks and rivers. But black walnut trees carry a major negative characteristic. The entire tree is toxic. Roots, buds, leaves and nut hulls contain a chemical called juglone toxin . The soil under the tree will have the highest level of juglone due to the accumulation of roots, fallen leaves, hulls and nuts lying on the ground. Collecting this debris is a good sanitation habit but, nonetheless, the highest amount of juglone is in the roots, which run underground. So, what does that mean for the homeowner who has black walnut trees on their property or may want to grow this tree? You must be aware that most grass, shrubs, herbaceous flowers, some trees, and vegetables will not grow near black walnut trees. Vegetables such as asparagus, cabbage, peppers potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes are sensitive to black walnut tree juglone. Apple trees, blueberry and pear trees are also affected. Azalea, chokeberry, hackberry, hydrangea, lilac, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, and yew, do not tolerate juglone. However, there are some landscape plants that do tolerate juglone. They include, arborvitae, clematis, crabapple, honeysuckle, most maples, oak, and most viburnum. Flowers that will tolerate the toxic soil are zinnia, Siberian squill, lungwort, bee balm, coral bells and others. Some sources recommend planting 50-80 feet from the tree. The University of Minnesota Extension has a complete list of plants that can be planted near a black walnut tree. The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Credits https://extension.umn.edu/managing-woodlands/managing-black-walnut-forests Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Autarmota.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2), www.Marylandbiodiversity.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back Seed Buying Do’s & Don’ts” Happy New Year! It’s time to pack up decorations, and pack-off the visiting relatives. Now is “me” time. Grab a “cuppa” your favorite beverage, snuggle into a throw, review your notes from last year’s growing season and begin perusing seed catalogs. This article provides suggestions about things to consider when purchasing seeds. BJ Hansell, Master Gardener Most every gardening-related resource online will advise you that the best time to order seeds is between the months of January and April. That is mostly because seed sellers publish their catalogs around the December holidays. Additionally, the orders should be arriving before planting time. Before completing a deep-dive into seed catalogs, checkout The Dakota County Seed Library that is maintained through a partnership between the Dakota County Library, Dakota County Library Foundation and the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners. It is located at the Farmington Library. If you are searching for a wonderful variety of seeds please avail yourself of this service. The collection includes Edibles, Flowers, Herbs and “Others.” Did I mention the seeds are FREE? FREE SEEDS!! Click on this link www.co.dakota.mn.us , enter “Seed Library” in the search box, then follow the resulting Seed Library link. There you can learn about the mission of the Seed Library, the list of current seed inventory and how to acquire seeds. Donors for this season include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and personal donations. The inventory will be updated during January & February 2024. We also operate an ongoing ‘ Seed Drive'. Everyone is encouraged to participate. We request heirloom varieties packaged for 2023 or later in the supplier’s original packet. Hybrid varieties and clearly labeled collected seeds may be added directly to one of our 'Share' drawers. This resource is especially useful if you do not want large quantities of particular seeds. As you begin collecting seeds, they should be stored in low-light and low-humidity environments. They should experience as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Photo storage boxes are a great example of one method for compact & organized seed storage. Here is a summary of 10 tips for buying seeds online and in catalogs. 1. Ask gardeners you trust to find out what companies they like and have had success with. A good source is a Dakota County Master Gardener. 2. Call the company and see how you like their responses to your questions. Do they have knowledgeable staff on hand to answer your gardening and planting questions? 3. How long have they been in business? Just because they’re new, doesn’t make them bad. But the companies that have been around a long time must be doing something right. 4. Are you looking for something specific? Some companies specialize in only certain plants while others are more generalist. If you’re looking for only certified organic, or heirloom for example, those companies are out there. Be aware there are plenty of specialty companies. 5. Don’t over buy . This is a common mistake. It is easy to be sucked into the pretty pictures and before you know it, you’ve purchased way more than you’ll have time to plant or that you’ll have room to grow. Partner with a fellow gardener to share large quantities at perhaps a better value. 6. How much are shipping costs? Sometimes it can be more than the seeds. Companies can vary a great deal here. Know the whole cost, not just the price of the seeds or plants. 7. Make sure the seeds you are buying are fresh and packaged for that year. Deeply discounted seeds may be out of date. Although still viable in many cases, they do begin to decline in their rate of germination success as they get older and/or stored improperly. Remember, you get what you pay for. 8. Know approximately how many seeds are in a pack. Some packs have more seeds than you’ll need, while others will surprise you at the small amount provided. It pays to inquire to save the disappointment of finding out you didn’t get enough. 9. Know if what you are ordering will grow in your zone and conditions. It is so easy to assume you’ll get results like those in the picture. In reality, without just the right conditions, your results could vary greatly. Take note of the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map . 10. Don’t be afraid to try new things. You won’t blow your life’s savings on an order of seeds so if you’re feeling lucky, go for it. Experimenting is one of the best parts of gardening. Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say. See you next month when another knowledgeable MG will share information on seed starting! Resource: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/10-tips-for-buying-seeds-online-and-in-catalogs/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gearacres.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Building a Pollinator Garden Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Yet, pollinators are at serious risk. You can learn more about this risk at the Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota . But the purpose of this article to focus attention not on the risk, but on what we can do to help. Here are some suggestions. 1. Rethink your lawn! Perfectly manicured grass does nothing for pollinators. Maybe it’s time to let some dandelions and clovers grow in that back corner of your property. These two wildflowers (not necessarily weeds) are prime food sources for pollinators during the late spring and early summer. Stagger mowing so that some of the flowers are in bloom at all times. Take steps to protect the pollinator habitat that exists on your property, especially if this area is out of the way. This could be a bare patch of soil, a dead tree, a rock or brush pile where native pollinators build nests. This is the perfect time to cut down on the amount of grass you have and build a pollinator garden. 2. Design a pollinator garden! First of all, it helps to have sun. The vast majority of pollinator plants are sun-loving. But don’t despair if you have a shady yard; there are shade plants that attract pollinators. A source of water should be available. An old bird bath filled with pebbles and water makes an ideal source of water. A mud bath will attract butterflies as well as bees. Make sure there is a safe distance from any area where you use chemicals. Better yet, avoid chemicals altogether. Although budget limitations might demand that you start small, allow room for expansion. In the world of pollinators, bigger is better. 3. Go native! Avoid highly hybridized plants that are bred to be seedless and thus produce very little pollen and scent. It’s been estimated that native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators than hybrids. Emphasize diversity, not only in variety but also in size, especially plant height. Your goal should be a minimum of 10 different plants; more is better. When you plant, do so in clumps at least 3 feet in diameter. Focus on bright colors. For bees, it’s white, yellow, blue, violet, and purple. Attract hummingbirds with red and orange colors. If you include all these colors, you will attract butterflies also. The shape of the flower is important. Do not include “double” flowers as the pollinators cannot reach the nectar. Single flowers are best. Flowers that provide a natural platform give pollinators a place to land. Flowers that resemble a bull’s-eye provide a nectar guide. This is a region near the center of each petal not seen by humans but visible to the pollinator. Some flowers should have a tubular shape to attract hummingbirds. It is very important to provide nectar and pollen all season-long. Include flowers that bloom continually or stagger bloom times to cover the entire growing season. An excellent source of information regarding plants for bees can be found at the “Bee Squad” at the University of Minnesota. 4. Provide nesting sites! The fourth suggestion is to provide nesting space that provides morning and mid-day sun. Ideally, this should be within three hundred feet of the food sources. Keep in mind that approximately 70% of all native bees are ground-nesters. So, an area of bare soil is mandatory. These bees seldom nest in rich, compact soils so you might have to work some sandy or loamy matter into the soil. The tunnel-nesting bees, approximately 30% of our native species, need old tree stumps, logs, or piles of twigs and branches. Rock piles can also provide nesting areas. Allow this area to remain untouched, especially during the fall and winter months to allow the eggs and larvae to develop. There are man-made nesting solutions. You can find plans on the internet for wooden nesting boxes, stem bundles, butterfly boxes, etc. There are even plans for bumblebee nests. Consider a honeybee hive and learn about their fascinating community lifestyle. 5. Go organic! Finally, we can safeguard beneficial pollinators by going natural or organic. Avoid the use of chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Your pollinator garden is a good place to let the garden go wild. If you must use chemicals, please do so in small, limited quantities and at times when the pollinators are resting, as in the late evening. Remember, while you are killing one pest or weed, you are likely killing beneficial pollinators as well. Following these suggestions will not only add beauty to your yard but will help restore the pollinators we need. Our future depends on these pollinators; without them our food source will dwindle Photo credits: Cheryl Forrest (1, 2)

< Back A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock Now that your outside garden has been put to bed for the winter, take some time to relax and read some entertaining plant fiction. As reviewer Gail Maifeld explains, reading the mysteries - “A Plain Vanilla Murder” and “Hemlock” by Susan Wittig Albert, is not only fun, it’s educational. Written by Susan Wittig Albert Reviewed by Gail Maifeld The garden is put to bed so put your feet up with two delicious mysteries by Susan Wittig Albert: A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock. Both mysteries incorporate the titled herbs as the premise for the mystery plot and are the two latest books in The China Bayles mystery series. A Plain Vanilla Murder takes place in and around the fictious town of Pecan Springs, Texas. China and Ruby Cox are presenting a workshop entitled Plain Vanilla. China’s workshops are popular but someone at this workshop has a deadly motive. China is puzzled when a dear friend’s daughter disappears, a university professor is found murdered, and a fragile, rare orchid is stolen from the professor’s lab. Much is at stake: plant patent, an orchid that is extinct in the wild, & the life of an innocent girl. Learn about the most taken for granted herb vanilla. Did you know it only grows wild in Chili because that is where the unique insect lives that has the physiology to pollinate vanilla? Hemlock takes China Bayles to the mountains of North Carolina where an old & rare book is missing from the gardening book collection of the Hemlock House Library. This rare book, A Curious Herbal, was written and illustrated in the 1730’s. Hemlock is a compelling mix of mystery and herb lore. A member of the carrot family, hemlock looks like Queen Anne’s Lace and is lethal to humans and animals. The addition of a haunted house, a ghost, the local Hemlock Society, and a shooting, all create an absorbing novel. Learn about Vanilla and Hemlock while enjoying a mysterious romp that includes red herrings and suspicious characters. Photo Credit: Gail Mailfeld (1,2)