< Back Give Dandelion Another Chance Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener Not just a weed – dandelion is an edible plant worth your consideration as a culinary addition. Although, most of us spend time and products on eliminating dandelions from our yards, the truth is that dandelion is edible (so long as they have not been subjected to toxic chemicals) and can provide a tasty delight for your table. Read this article to learn more about edible dandelions and how you might enjoy them. Dandelion ( Taraxacum officinale ) is an indigenous plant native to the Midwest that has been used by Native American tribes for centuries. This versatile and nutritious herb is often overlooked as a “weed,” but it offers numerous culinary and medicinal benefits. Dandelions are herbaceous perennial plants characterized by their rosette of dark green leaves that can grow up to 12 inches long. The plant features one or more hollow, flowering stalks that can reach up to 15 inches in height. The bright yellow flowers are a common sight in disturbed areas such as lawns and roadside ditches. One of the most appealing aspects of dandelions is that all parts of the plant are edible and can be harvested throughout the year. The leaves are best collected in spring, while flowers and stems are ideal for harvesting in summer. The roots are typically gathered in fall. These parts can be used fresh, dried, or blanched and frozen for later use. Of course, when foraging for dandelions, it's crucial to avoid areas that may have been recently treated with pesticides or herbicides. Always ensure you're collecting from clean, unpolluted areas. Dandelions are particularly valued for their liver health benefits. They are rich in vitamins and minerals, making them a nutritious addition to various dishes. Here are two recipes that showcase the culinary potential of dandelions. Dandelion Greens Dandelion Greens Salad Ingredients: • 4 cups young dandelion leaves, washed and torn • 1/4 cup red onion, thinly sliced • 1/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar • 1 teaspoon honey • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • In a large bowl, combine dandelion leaves, red onion, and cherry tomatoes. • In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, apple cider vinegar, and honey. • Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat evenly. • Season with salt and pepper to taste. • Serve immediately and enjoy the fresh, slightly bitter flavor of the dandelion greens. Sautéed Dandelion Roots Ingredients: • 2 cups dandelion roots, cleaned and sliced • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. • Add minced garlic and sauté for 1 minute until fragrant. • Add sliced dandelion roots and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender • Drizzle with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. • Serve as a side dish or add to soups and stews for extra flavor and nutrition. Dandelions offer a sustainable and nutritious food source that connects us to the indigenous wisdom of the Midwest. By incorporating this often-overlooked plant into our diets, we can enjoy its health benefits while honoring the traditional knowledge of Native American tribes. Below are additional resources from the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/can-i-eat-weeds-my-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/weeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), fwww.foodista.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Bright, Fresh and Easy Spring Salad Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener There is nothing like a fresh salad made from ingredients grown in your own yard. If you were as ambitious as our author, Master Gardener Joy Johnson, and started your own lettuces earlier this year, you could enjoy this spring salad with your home-grown lettuce. Not to worry though, this salad can be enjoyed with grocery-bought, or perhaps, farmers markets ingredients also. This salad says – welcome spring! Spring is in full bloom and since I was anxious to get my garden started back in March, I have a bounty of young spring greens and lettuces, along with herbs to enjoy fresh from the garden. There is nothing like a fresh salad made from your own yard. I hope you enjoy a bowl full of this while sitting and watching your garden grow. A fellow master gardener in Dakota County has an orange tree that grows in a large pot (also a lemon and a lime tree). She diligently drags them outside to her patio each spring and hauls them into her attached greenhouse area off the kitchen each fall. She’s probably the only person I know who could use the fresh ripe oranges off her tree for this salad. The rest of us will have to make do with the canned ones. Mandarin Orange Salad Salad Ingredients Approx. 2 cups mandarin orange slices 5 ounces mixed baby greens, whatever fresh lettuce you have 1/3 cup dried cranberries 1/2 cup almonds (chopped, slivered, or sliced) Approx. 2 Tbsp fresh mint (torn or chopped) 1/4 cup crumbled goat cheese Salt + pepper, to taste Lemon dressing ingredients : 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 a lemon, juice 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp garlic powder Salt + pepper, to taste Instructions PREP ORANGES: If using fresh mandarin oranges, peel them well, removing as much of the white pith as desired. If using canned oranges, drain the orange slices from the liquid they are stored in. MAKE DRESSING: Combine all dressing ingredients together in a small jar or bowl. Shake or whisk to combine. PLATE SALAD: Plate salad on a large serving platter or bowl. Start with baby greens as the base, following with orange slices, dried cranberries, almonds, mint, and crumbled goat cheese. If you are using fresh goat cheese (I am spoiled to have a daughter who milks goats and makes cheese, you can drop little dollops on the salad after you’ve tossed it with the dressing). Season with salt and pepper, as desired. TOSS IN DRESSING: Toss salad in lemon dressing right before serving. Credits: Recipe from Walderwellness, https://www.walderwellness.com/mandarin-orange-salad/ Photo credits: Walderwellnes.com , Carrie Walder, MS, RD, registered dietician (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back Timing For Cutting, Pruning and Dividing Plants Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Gardeners understand that most plants and trees in their yards need to be pruned at times. The problem is that knowing when to prune can be confusing. Not all plants and trees should be pruned at the same time of year. Master Gardener Cherise Skeba found it hard to keep track of when to prune the plants in her yard despite a diligent effort to learn about each plant. After doing her research, she developed 7 rules that help her and can help you, to know when to prune to keep your plant healthy and producing beautiful blooms. Read this article to learn the 7 helpful rules As a garden enthusiast, I understand the need to cut, prune, divide and otherwise clean-up plants in my garden and yard. However, I have not found a reliable and easy system to know the best timing for these maintenance efforts. I have purchased gardening calendars and gardening books to help create a maintenance schedule. I even started a catalog for my individual plants, noting the recommended maintenance tasks and timing. I still found myself searching the internet every time I wanted to understand maintenance timing for a specific plant. There must be a better way to retain garden maintenance knowledge! This idea led me to review many garden maintenance articles and develop a simple rule set based on common plant characteristics that can be used to guide appropriate timing for plant cutting, pruning and dividing in northern climates. Here are seven rules to help everyone remember when to cut, prune and divide plants. Rule 1 : Dead, significantly diseased or severely insect-infected plant parts should be cut off from perennials and shrubs as soon as the problems are apparent. Rule 2 : Herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year) should be left intact to overwinter and then be cut down to the ground in the spring prior to blooming. This practice gives insects and animals food and shelter during the winter months. In addition, leaving the plants intact improves their winter survival chances. Autumn Joy Sedum in winter Exception: In the autumn, cut down to the ground perennials that have a history of disease or are especially prone to insect infestations. Cutting these plants back in the autumn reduces the chances of pests surviving through winter. Common plants that meet this exception are B ee balm, R udbeckia, I ris, P hlox, P eonies and A sparagus (acronym BRIPPA). Rule 3 : Division of perennial flowers should be completed in the spring for fall-blooming plants and in autumn for spring-blooming or summer-blooming plants. Rule 4 : Spring-flowering shrubs (bloom before June, e.g. lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas and rhododendron) should be trimmed immediately after the blooming period ends. These shrubs grow blooms on one-year-old wood. Trimming after the bloom period keeps the blooms intact for the current year and promotes new growth for blooms in the following year. Exception: A heavy prune to regenerate an overgrown spring-blooming plant should be completed in the winter. This will reduce the spring blooms but will ultimately promote a healthier plant. Rule 5 : Summer-flowering shrubs (bloom after June, e.g., Ninebark, panicle Hydrangeas) should be trimmed during late winter to early spring. These shrubs grow blooms on “new wood” (this season’s growth) and should therefore be trimmed prior to the time the new branches begin to grow to preserve the current year’s blooms. Do not prune shrubs late summer through autumn since this will promote new growth that would be susceptible to winter damage. Summer Ninebark Rule 6 : Deciduous trees , including fruit trees, should be pruned late winter. Winter trimming allows a full view of the tree’s shape and allows the wounds to heal before warm-weather pests begin to flourish. Refinements: Oak trees should not be pruned after February to avoid the spread of oak wilt disease. River birch trees should be pruned early in the winter after the leaves have fallen. Rule 7 : Evergreen shrubs and trees should not be pruned since branch removal may damage the integrity of the tree and new growth will not occur when pruning back to older growth. New evergreen buds (but not branches) may be trimmed in early spring to help shape the evergreens and promote density. I’ve created a short rhyme to help me remember the appropriate timing for cutting, dividing and pruning plants: Garden Pruning Calendar Herbaceous perennials peak through the snow But in the spring, cut to the ground or mow. Divide perennials in autumn if they bloom in the spring But divide in the spring if autumn blooms cling. Trim spring-blooming shrubs after flowers fade But wait until winter if there is a fall flower parade. Prune trees in the winter if they drop their leaves But evergreen plants should be left to do as they please. Cutting and pruning schedules for specific plants can be found in the citations below which also provide additional guidance for how to cut and prune plants. Citations with individual plant lists “How to Divide and Transplant Perennials”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-divide-and-transplant-perennials “Pruning Flowering Shrubs”, Rutgers University http://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1221/ “43 Perennials to Cut Back in the Spring”, The Spruce http://www.thespruce.com/pruning-perennials-in-spring-1402713 “Pruning Guide”, Bachman’s http://bachmans.com/information/resource-hub/pruning-guide “Pruning trees and shrubs”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs General citations “How and when to divide perennials”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials “Proper Time to Prune Trees and Shrubs”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/proper-time-prune-trees-and-shrubs “Pruning Deciduous Shrubs”, University of Wisconsin http://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-deciduous-shrubs/ “Cut Back Perennials Now or Later?”, Purdue University http://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/cut-back-perennials-now-or-later-2/ “How and When to Prune Flowering Shrubs”, Penn State http://extension.psu.edu/how-and-when-to-prune-flowering-shrubs “The Nuances of Pruning Spring-flowering Shrubs”, North Dakota State University http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/news/columns/dakota-gardener/dakota-gardener-the-nuances-of-pruning-spring-flowering-shrubs “Dormant Season Tree and Shrub Pruning”, University of Illinois http://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/dormant_season_pruning_infosheet.pdf “Pruning Shrubs and Hedges in the Home Garden”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/pruning-shrubs-and-hedges-home-garden/ “Leaving Perennials Standing: Pros and Cons”, Northern Gardener, Minnesota State Horticultural Society http://northerngardener.org/leaving-perennials-standing-pros-and-cons/ Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (Creative Commons)(1), Les Hutchinson, flickr.com (2) flickr.com (3)

< Back Winter Chicken Stew (And a Special Valentine Treat) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener The ice and snow have buried your garden under a cold blanket. Picking fresh veggies and herbs from your own plot is a distant memory and a future hope! You can still make tasty nutritious meals for your family using your garden produce, just open your freezer. Here is a recipe for a delicious chicken stew that will make great use of your frozen vegetables and herbs. Follow that up with this special sweet Valentine’s treat. Last October I dug up all the carrots and parsnips before the first hard frost. I washed, peeled, sliced, blanched, and froze containers of them. They’ve been sleeping in my freezer and now it’s time to wake them up with herbs, (also frozen or dried from my garden) in this flavorful, healthy chicken stew. I love using a crock pot for this recipe. It must be set on the low setting for the chicken to absorb the flavors and not taste dry. Country Style Chicken Stew Medium Crock Pot 2 tsp olive oil 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 oz. portobello mushrooms, cubed (or one small can of mushroom stems and pieces) 14 oz. fat-free chicken broth ¼ cup dry white wine 3 golden potatoes, cubed into bite size pieces 15 oz can great northern beans, rinsed and drained 2 cups frozen sliced carrots (or 4 fresh ones) 1 cup frozen sliced parsnips (or 2 fresh ones) 8 cloves garlic, minced ¼ tsp pepper ¼ tsp of each of these dried spices: thyme, basil, rosemary, tarragon, oregano (if using frozen, use about a pinch of each) 1 bay leaf ¼ cup dried parsley (you can also use frozen, just chop it finely) Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and mushrooms, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Combine the chicken mixture with everything else listed in a medium sized crock pot. Cover and cook on LOW until the chicken is cooked through, the potatoes are tender, and the flavors are blended, 6 to 8 hours. Serves 4. Serve the chicken stew with these colorful sweet scones Just for My Valentine Sweetheart Scones 2 ½ cups flour (can use ½ whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 Tbsp Baking Powder ¾ tsp salt 6 Tbsp butter 1 egg ½ cup milk ¾ cup dried cranberries, cherries or blueberries (a little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries) Top with 2 tsp milk and tsp sugar before baking. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl or food processor combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. With a pastry blender or food processor cut in butter until mixture represents coarse crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a separate bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend into the flour mixture. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Pack dough in to ¾ in thickness and use a butter knife or cookie cutter to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly browned. Serve with Raspberry preserves. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back A Trio of Garden Produce Recipes Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s cold, it’s snowy and your garden is sound asleep resting under a blanket of snow and ice. Last summer’s dry, hot weather is a distant memory. However, it was that weather which helped us produce a bumper crop of tomatoes, peppers and apples. Joy Johnson shares 3 yummy recipes that make great use of those saved vegetables. It’s cold, it’s snowy and your garden is sound asleep resting under a blanket of snow and ice. Last summer’s dry, hot weather is a distant memory. However, it was that weather which helped produce a bumper crop of tomatoes, peppers and apples at my house. By early November I had finally finished processing all my fruits and vegetables. My freezer was packed, and I had to turn to canning and drying in order to keep produce over the winter. Now I’m disciplining myself to stop buying so much at the grocery store and make use of what I have on hand. The three recipes here do just that. The salsa verde makes use of the green tomatoes that I picked right before the first hard frost. The chicken stew uses the parsnips and carrots that were harvested, blanched and frozen, and the butterscotch apple muffins make use of the apples and apple sauce that were canned or frozen. Salsa Verde For canning, or you can eat it fresh Ingredients: 5 1/2 cups about 2 pounds peeled, chopped green tomatoes 1 cup chopped onion 1 cup chopped peppers (I had a couple small jalapenos left from the garden that I used along with sweet green peppers 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1/3 cup minced cilantro 2 1/2 teaspoons cumin 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 cup white vinegar 3 tablespoons lime juice Have your hot sterilized jars and lids ready (keep them hot). Chop the tomatoes, onion, peppers, and garlic in a food processor by pulsing, until they are finely chopped. Remove and put into sauce pot you will be using to cook. Add the cumin, paprika, salt, vinegar and lime juice. Bring to a boil and then turn down heat to a simmer for 12 minutes. During the last minute of cooking add the minced cilantro. Ladle hot salsa into hot sterilized jars and leave ½ inch head space. Place sterilized rings and lids on top, then return to boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. Listen for the pop! Serve with chips, on scrambled eggs, on tacos, enchiladas…. Chicken Stew with Mushrooms and Peppers Makes 4 servings Ingredients : 1 tsp olive oil 1 onion sliced 1 ½ cups sliced mushrooms 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups chopped tomatoes fresh or canned 3 cups cubed acorn or butternut squash 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves ¼ tsp black pepper ½ cup chopped red or green peppers, fresh or frozen 1 cup sliced carrots, fresh or frozen 1 cup sliced parsnips, fresh or frozen Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add the onions, mushrooms and check and sauté stirring occasionally until the onions are translucent and the chicken is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Combine chicken mixture, tomatoes, squash, garlic, bay leaves, black pepper, red/green peppers, carrots and parsnips in a crock pot. Cover and cook on low until the chicken is cooked through and vegies are tender, 6-8 hours. Discard bay leaves before serving. Butterscotch Apple Cupcakes These cup cakes are a sweet treat that complement the stew well and make for a delicious warming winter lunch. Ingredients: 1 cup butter, room temperature 1 c sugar 3 large eggs 1 Tbsp vanilla extract 2 large apples 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 cup unsweetened applesauce Preheat oven to 350. Place 18 muffin cup liners in muffin pans. Beat butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl with an electric mixture until fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, beat in vanilla, Peel apples and grate into butter mixture, avoiding core. Stir until batter is well blended. Combine flour, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, and cinnamon Add flour mixture to apple mixture, alternating with applesauce, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Spoon batter into prepared cups, filling ¾ bull. Bake 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 5 minutes; remove cupcakes from pan and cool completely on wire racks. Pipe or spoon on frosting. Frosting : Combine ¼ cup butter and ½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring until sugar melts. Bring mixture to a boil. Whisk in 2 T. milk, cream or almond milk and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Remove from heat. Stir in 1 ¾ cups powdered sugar. Spread over cupcakes while still warm. Makes 1 ¼ cups. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

Subscribe to The Garden Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Look for: Master Gardener events What to do in your garden each month Interesting plants that might add value to your garden Plant diseases, insects, or other problems that you might encounter Garden tips Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books, and other ways that MGs can help you to have a healthy, happy garden. And more!! Get "The Garden Buzz" First Name Last Name Email Sign Me Up Thank you for subscribing to The Buzz!

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back Cool Season Vegetables for Spring Planting Marjory Blare, Master Gardener There are a number of “cool season” vegetables that can be planted outdoors in early spring. Get a head-start on your planting by starting your seeds indoors and planting them out when the temperature is right. Cool season vegetables can be planted out much earlier than, for example, tomatoes or peppers. You can seed indoors as much as six to eight weeks before the last frost date! Read this article for valuable information about seeding and planting “cool season” vegetables. Cool Season Vegetable Wisdom Here are some tips for growing “cool season vegetables:” The best way to get an early harvest is to prepare your garden in the fall. But if you didn’t, you can make up for it by first cleaning up any debris and then warming the soil with black plastic. If you want to get out in the garden ASAP, row covers and low tunnels can help to create a warmer growing environment for your plants. The last frost for Dakota county is around May 2nd. The northern half of Dakota county is zone 5a and the southern is 4b, make sure your seeds are rated for these zones. Specific crops vary, but the ideal temperatures for cool-season vegetables are in the 50°- 60° range for the first month of growth. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature. Use the right set-up to start seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#types-of-grow-lights-2651610 and visit the Dakota County Master Gardeners YouTube channel for videos on seed starting. Starting spring crops under lights can provide a few weeks of optimal growing temperatures. The transplants will be able to photosynthesize better because of a greater leaf area. Your plants will usually mature more before temperatures get too hot. Older plants are better able to withstand feeding damage from early spring insect pests like flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Cool season vegetables such as Arugula, Chinese cabbage, Bok choy, Peas, and Parsnips can be direct-seeded as soon as the soil is workable. “Omero” cabbage Chinese Cabbage, Bok Choy, Spinach and Swiss chard can be started under lights or direct-seeded. Gurney’s ‘Goliath’ Spinach Cauliflower is best planted mid-summer for a fall crop. Harden-off your seedlings before planting them out: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860 There are many edible, cold-tolerant flowers, and herbs, that can be started under lights. Take a look at the chart below for some great ideas. Vegetable Days to Harvest Start seeds Transplant Varieties Broccoli 85-100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Green Magic, ‘Super Dome’, ‘Jade Cross’ Brussels Sprouts < 100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Gustus’, ‘Hestia’, Cabbage 78 22-Feb - 4-April 4-April - 2-May ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Tendersweet’, ‘Omero’ Collards 60-80 8-Feb - 7-Mar 4- April ‘Tiger’, ‘Ole Timey Blue’, ‘Cascade Glaze’ Green Onions 8-10 weeks 25-Jan - 8-Feb 4-April ‘Feast’, ‘Deep Purple’, ‘White Spear’ Kale 25-65 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Rainbow Lacinato’, ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Black Magic’ ‘Toscano’ Kohlrabi 45-60 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Kolibri’, ‘Kossak’, ‘Purple Vienna’ Leeks 80-145 8-Feb - 22 Feb 18-April ‘Tivi’, ‘Electra’, ‘Titian’ ‘Varna’ Lettuce 30-70 29-Feb - 14-Mar 4-April - 11-April ‘Esmerelda’, ‘Little Gem’ ‘Red Salad Bowl’, *Find more information on dates at: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html For Master Gardener-recommended varieties of many vegetables and flowers, here is the link to 42 years of University of Minnesota Extension seeds trials: Tivi Leeks Now is the right time to plan for starting seeds indoors! Happy gardening! Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Marjory Blare, Photo 2 – Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension, Photos 3 – 5 – Marjory Blare

Our Spring Plant Sale is May 16, 2026! Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets during the spring, summer, and fall in Apple Valley, Burnsville, Eagan, and Lakeville. During the winter, you can find them at winter markets in Eagan and Apple Valley. A complete listing of dates, locations and times can be found on our Event Calendar. Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now

< Back Eating Bitter Melon Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern What’s the big deal with bitter melon? I mean, it’s bitter even when it’s mature! What would compel someone to eat it? Believe it or not, this bumpy and sometimes spiky little vegetable has been eaten for centuries by various cultures around the world who have learned to embrace and even enjoy that bitterness. At the same time, they have also reaped its nutritional benefits. Read on to learn more about the benefits of bitter melon and how to enjoy eating it! Bitter melon has long been used in traditional medicine to treat various kinds of ailments, most notably diabetes. In developing countries in Asia, Africa, Central and South America it has also been used to treat dysmenorrhea, eczema, gout, leprosy, psoriasis, gout, and even scabies. In developed nations, recent animal and clinical studies of bitter melon extract have shown that it has potential therapeutic benefit in diabetes and obesity related metabolic dysfunction.1 Does the above information encourage you to give it a try the next time you see it at your local farmers’ market? Maybe the following recipe will. I consulted with my favorite Filipino friends, Teddie and Leila Maasin, to find a recipe that could be enjoyed by someone trying bitter melon for the first time and they shared this one (with my edits ): Vegetable Fritters 4 cups of prepared vegetables to include the following: 1 thinly sliced Chinese bitter melon 1 shredded medium sweet potato (I used a Murasaki sweet potato ) 1 large, shredded carrot 1 chopped medium onion 1 to 2 cups chopped spinach or celery leaves ( or whatever leafy greens you have ) 2 beaten eggs 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch Black pepper to taste Vegetable ( or peanut ) oil for deep frying To prepare bitter melon, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and spongy pith, and thinly slice in cross sections. Soak slices for 1 hour in salted water to remove some of the bitterness, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible and place slices in a large mixing bowl. Add and mix in the remaining vegetables, then stir in beaten eggs until well combined with the vegetables. Now would be a good time to start heating your vegetable oil in a deep saucepan or frying pan. (Don’t forget to have a pan cover handy!) In a smaller mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and black pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the larger mixing bowl with the vegetables and mix until you have a vegetable-laden batter. Pre-form patties from this batter, adding flour or water to get them to hold together. Fry patties in hot oil until medium brown, then remove them to a platter lined with paper towels to wick up excess oil. I like to serve these vegetable fritters with sweet chili sauces like these: Obviously, the recipe featured above is not the most healthful of bitter melon recipes due to the deep-frying cooking method. If you’d like to try another, just look for any of the numerous stir-fry recipes available on the Internet. As a bonus, the Journal of Lipids reference article linked below contains a “typical recipe of a bitter melon dish popular in Bangladesh”, called Bitter Melon Fry with Potato. Check it out! 1 J Lipids. 2015; 2015: 496169 Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1,2,3

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)