< Back Sustainable Gardening Clean Up Practices Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener As the summer growing season comes to an end, we in the gardening community know our work is not quite done. With the end of the season comes the start of the next, and before you know it, it's already time to clean up your garden. Before you start this necessary process, consider how a few simple sustainable practices can help support your garden’s long-term health while helping local systems thrive. Why do sustainable practices matter? They can help reduce your overall garden waste. They address some of the environmental impacts of conventional cleanup. They improve soil health. They help with biodiversity in your area, bugs and critters alike. Leave the Leaves (Strategically) Mulch . One of the best things you can do with your fall leaf litter is to turn it into useful mulch. Mulching is the process of breaking down dried fall leaves into small parts. This helps leaves break down easier and can promote soil and lawn health. Mulch can be used for insulating flower beds and it helps key nutrients return into the soil. Mulching leaves can be done with specific lawnmowers or electric leaf shredders, but there are also some easy to do free alternatives. You can stomp them in a trash bag, use gardening shears, or even run them over with a car . One recent study from the University of Wisconsin found that using 2-5 inches of mulched leaves for winter lawn cover resulted in greener grass throughout the summer and resulted in fewer weeds than unmulched leaves . Another benefit of leaving leaf litter strategically around your yard is the shelter they provide beneficial insects like pollinators . Multiple insects like bees, butterflies, and moths use remnants of your garden to overwinter in. Leaving some areas with leaf piles, dead plant stems, and even tree bark can provide beneficial insects with the necessary cover to survive the winter. Cut Plants Back Selectively It can be tempting to cut back your plants (perennials and shrubs) every fall, but leaving some plant material standing, like dead plant stems, leaves, and even flowers, can provide additional nutrients to your gardens. In addition, leaving flower heads behind is beneficial not just to your garden’s bug population but the local birds as well. Coneflowers, sunflowers, and other prairie flowers provide seeds to birds throughout the winter. Leaving them up can provide them with a good food source, and a habitat source for small creatures. Also, if you do need to cut these plants back, consider cutting the top two-thirds down; some insects specifically overwinter in the bottom one-third of the plant stalk . However, it is always recommended to cut dead or diseased plants to remove any infestation entirely. Pollinator Compost Smarter Composting piles are a good way to turn plant materials and more, into usable mulch that can provide great nutrients back to your plants! Composting is the process of letting natural occurring processes break down plant and yard waste resulting in a great soil amendment or mulch. Besides grass and leaves, many other organic materials are compostable, such as: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Nonwoody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds Taking the time to build or buy a structure to start a compost pile can produce faster and more thorough composting, getting more benefits from your garden leftovers. While composting can seem hard to learn, this guide from the University of Minnesota, can provide a better understanding of how to start your own! Reuse Garden Waste Creatively If your garden cleanup consists of more wood-based debris, or you have any woody invasives, consider using those leftover materials to either make a brush pile for smaller animals or make a natural trellis! Making a brush pile can be great as it provides natural protection for small animals , such as songbirds, small mammals, and even foxes or skunks ! In addition, as the brush decays it will also provide great nutrients for insects, which are a great food source for other animals like birds and small mammals . Small brush piles stacked strategically could even be used as a good shelter for small saplings from deer ! To build one, start with larger branches or logs as a base and then add smaller branches on top. Besides brush piles, larger branches and bendable sticks can be used to make a trellis for any of your climbing garden plants ! This offers a fun DIY opportunity to make use of every part of your garden! These good gardening practices, as you clean up your garden, can make a big difference for your local ecosystem. This fall, bring your garden into balance with nature by trying a few of these tricks yourself! Photo Credits: https://atlaslawnandsnow.com (1,2), https://source.roboflow.com (3), https://images.rawpixel.com (4)

< Back Gardening with Annuals Shari Dugstad, Dakota County Master Gardener Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family and something your whole family can enjoy. This article reviews how to find the best annuals and how you can grow them successfully in your garden. For more information about soil, fertilizing, watering and general care of Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Unfortunately, annual flowers are not hardy in Minnesota and must be replanted each year. But planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family. So, let’s review how to find the best annuals and how you can best use them in your garden. There are numerous varieties of annuals to choose from and they are relatively easy to grow. But before buying your annual flowers, consider what you are looking for - size, color, full sun or shade, landscaping enhancement, pollinators, container appropriate, zone or just a favorite flower. Annuals that attract Pollinators If you are interested in annual pollinators to complement your perennial pollinator garden but don’t know where to start, take a look at this University of Minnesota Extension study of more than 30 annual flower varieties. The study found nine flowers that attracted the most pollinators: Music Box Mix sunflower (Helianthus anuus ‘Music Box Mix’) Lemon Queen sunflower (Helianthus annuus ‘Lemon Queen’) Summer Pink Jewel Salvia (Salvia coccinea ‘Summer Jewel Pink’) Purple Fairy Tale Salvia (Salvia verticilliata ‘Purple Fairy Tale’) Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta ‘Orange Fudge’) Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan(Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’) Showstar Butter Daisy (Melampodium paludosum ‘Showstar’) Dakota Gold Sneezeweed (Helenium amarum ‘Dakota Gold’) Envy Zinnia (Zinnia elegans ‘Envy’) Click on the study, above, for more information about the characteristics of these annuals. For a longer list of annuals that can be grown in Minnesota, look at this list provided by the University of Minnesota Extension. Top Performing Annuals in Minnesota There are so many annuals to choose from and it can be hard to know which will grow best in Minnesota. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has conducted trials on various cultivars. You can find lists of the top performing annuals and their features in the flower trials between 2018 and 2024 here . Here are the top ten for 2024: Begonia x hybrida Adora Velvet Red Celosia plumosa Bright Sparks Bright Red bronze Leaf Coleus Premium Sun Crimson Gold Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Impatiens x hybrida SunPatiens Vigorous Purple Kwik kombo Picnic in the Park Mix Lantana Shamrock Rose Gold Lobelia Heatopia Dark Blue Marigold Pretty Yellow Salvia Sallyfun Pure White Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Annuals for Container Gardens Annuals for Container Gardens If you would like to grow annuals in containers, the options are endless. Container gardening provides opportunities to be creative, to experiment with different flowers, to plant flowers with family or children, to enhance your landscape and to add beauty to your garden. Containers are also great way for those who don’t have a yard in which to plant, to add color to their world Containers work great for small spaces like decks and patios. (Note, also, that perennials can be incorporated into your annual containers for an interesting look.) Enjoy the process with container gardening. Before you get started determine what container you will use. A container can be almost anything that will hold soil and has drainage. But the material that they are made of can affect how your plant will grow. Click on this article to learn about the benefits and variables of different kinds of containers. You also need to decide where the containers will be located. Do they need full or partial sun or shade? How big a container do you need? Selecting plants for your containers Will you combine plants or have a single type of plant in the container? If plants are combined, select plants that flourish in the same soil, and have the same watering and light needs. Determine plant size, shape and number of plants for various impacts in the garden - color, interest, complementary to the landscape. Consider the color of the pot that is being used in conjunction with plant selection. An easy way to design a container is to use plants that are ‘thrillers, fillers and spillers.’ ‘Thrillers’ are the focal point and are usually bright, tall plants. ‘Fillers’ are often round, mounding, lower growing plants that make containers look full like begonia, coleus, and geraniums. ‘Spillers’ are plants that hang over the side of the container, like calibrachoa, nasturtium, and sweet potato vines. your containers, here is an article to review. With a little bit of effort this spring, you and your whole family can enjoy the pleasures of annuals in your garden. A little research on your part can result in the best annuals for your yard. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Shari Dugstad (2-4)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

Events Every year the Master Gardeners in Dakota County share their knowledge of research-based horticultural and environmental information by hosting classes and events. Most events occur in spring, summer and fall. There’s something for everyone. Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a good time. This event includes classes, keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Spring Plant Sale Get beautiful, hardy Minnesota grown plants at a great price and benefit the Master Gardener program of Dakota County too. Classes and Workshops If there is a gardening topic chances are there is a Dakota County Master Gardening speaking about it somewhere. Classes are offered throughout the year at a variety of locations throughout the county. Farmers Markets Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Lakeville, Eagan, Burnsville, and Apple Valley. Look for our table at both summer and winter area markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar . Community Gardens Master Gardeners participate in comparison vegetable trials and then share their results with you on this website. This year we cooperated in a state-wide trial to look at attractiveness of annual; flowers to various pollinators. Data was collected each week for eight weeks and will be compiled into a report. We are hoping that the information will help gardeners choose flowers that will improve habitat for pollinators.

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but as an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes and a great natural fertilizer! Read this article for more information about how to use the familiar and fun pumpkin. Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back Shrub Pruning in Late Summer Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them. Some plants must be pruned right after they bloom so as to not cut off the beginning of next year’s blooms. Learn when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. This article will tell you what you need about grooming your shrubs to keep them healthy and looking their best. Please note that this article discusses late summer pruning. Once Fall arrives, pruning should cease, except for storm damage of course. Pruning in fall encourages growth which will not harden off properly before temperatures fall, exposing that growth and the connected branch to injury or death. Late summer pruning is done for two reasons: 1) damage or disease removal and 2) shrub renovation. Those shrubs that bloom in the spring should be pruned right AFTER blooming so as to NOT cut off next year’s blooms. Lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas & rhododendron are examples of shrubs to be pruned after blooming in the spring. If renovation is more desirable than next year’s blooms, they can be pruned over the summer or even in the prime pre-spring pruning window. Renovation is often best undertaken when the actual shape of the leaf-covered plant is visible. Plant material damaged by storms, hail, pets, sports in the yard, etc. should always be removed for safety reasons and to limit input points on the plant for disease or insects. This is true in every season. Unless there is disease in the pruning, this material can be discarded with regular yard waste. Plants damaged by disease should be pruned to minimize the spread of the disease. Use the U of M Extension site to identify the problem. After pruning diseased material, sterilize tools and gloves used to halt the spread of the disease. Hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial wipes, Lysol, Pine-Sol and Listerine are all good disinfectants. Diseased material should NOT be put in the regular yard waste but should be placed in a plastic bag, sealed and set in the sun for several days before discarding in the regular trash. Late summer is a less busy time in the garden and is a good time to assess how your shrubs are working in your landscape. If some have become a little “aggressive” or even (horrors!) “shabby,” now is a good time to rein them in. Most deciduous shrubs can be pruned at this time to improve their shape and size. Note that this is NOT true of evergreens except Yews! Evergreens should only be pruned in the spring when their candles are present. The pruning goal is to reduce the plant to the size desired and thin out from the inside, removing inner branches to increase airflow through the plant which encourages healthy growth. Remove the oldest, woody stems right down to the base. One caveat - hedges are often prime nesting places for birds so check for “residents” before taking on that hedge. Wait until the fledglings have taken wing. Some plants which react well to late summer pruning: Roses - encourages fall bloom Alpine currant Barberry Burning Bush - Euonymus alatus Bush honeysuckle Buttonbush Coralberry Cotoneaster Dogwoods Elderberry Fothergilla Gro Low Sumac Ninebark Potentilla Privet St. John’s Wort Smokebush Viburnum Spirea Willow Yew Notice that hydrangea is absent from the list. Pruning hydrangea depends on the type of plant and varies widely. Also, most hydrangeas are in best bloom in late summer. Julie Weisenhorn has a good description of hydrangea pruning on this U of M Extension website . Remember that there are right and wrong ways to prune bushes. For advice about proper methods of pruning, look back at our article from the March 2022 Garden Buzz - March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs – currently found on the Master Gardeners in Dakota County website. Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them, so get to know when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (creative commons) (1)

< Back Garden to Kitchen Joy Johnson, Master Gardener All your hard work has paid off, the thrill of the harvest is upon you! But you can’t see your kitchen table because of all the vegetables you’ve brought in from the garden. First, way to go! You are on your way to creating healthy food. Second, here are a couple of recipes that will help you make good use of your produce. They can be frozen for use in the bleak mid-winter and are real crowd pleasers. Bushels of Tomatoes and Cabbages. All your hard work has paid off, the thrill of the harvest is upon you! But you can’t see your kitchen table because of all the vegetables you’ve brought in from the garden. First, way to go! You are on your way to creating healthy food. Second, here are a couple of recipes that will help you make good use of your produce. They can be frozen for use in the bleak mid-winter and are real crowd pleasers. Hungarian cabbage rolls are a favorite at my house. I make them now when I have oodles of tomatoes and huge cabbages. Then, in the middle of winter, I pull them out of the freezer and cook them on low in a crock pot over night and serve them with mashed potatoes to soak up all the juice. I make my own tomato juice to cook them in by cooking cut up fresh tomatoes until they are soft, then putting them through a food mill to remove the skins and seeds, add a little salt and then freeze or can the juice for later use. This recipe can easily be doubled if you have an especially large cabbage. You can use either turkey kielbasa sausage or beef. Cabbage Rolls 1 ½ lbs. hamburger or pork sausage (if you use spicey pork sausage, you don’t need to add all the following spices) 1 tsp. Salt ¼ tsp. pepper ¼ cup chopped onions 1Tbsp. chopped garlic ¾ cups rice, uncooked 1 whole cabbage, wash, trim off outer leaves if they aren’t good quality. 1 link of Polska Kielbasa sausage (either turkey or beef). Cut into 2-inch chunks. 1 large can of tomato juice or 1-2 quarts of homemade juice. Combine hamburger and rice with one whole egg and mix thoroughly. Set aside. Immerse the cabbage into a large pot of boiling water. Boil until the tops layers of leaves look slightly cooked. Remove cabbage from pot to a large cutting board. Trim off outer layers of leaves that are soft, lay aside to cool. Re-immerse cabbage in boiling water and cook the next few layers of leaves, remove and cut off cooked leaves. Keep doing this until the cabbage is too small to use for rolls. (Refrigerate and use in a different recipe). For each cooked leaf, trim down the hard spine so that the leaf can be rolled up. Discard spine (or give it to your kids to eat, they are delish). Lay a loose handful of the hamburger or sausage mixture in the lower end of the leaf, roll once, tuck in both sides, finish rolling and tuck in the end. You can use a toothpick or skewer to hold roll closed. Put sausage pieces in b ottom of large kettle. Stack cabbage rolls gently on top. Pour over enough tomato juice to cover the cabbages. Bring to a boil, turn heat way down and barely simmer for an hour or two until the rice is cooked. You can also do these in a crock pot for 4-6 hours. Serve over mashed potatoes. Clara’s Salsa Here’s an excellent salsa recipe that my daughter came up with. You can hot water bath can it in jars or freeze it in baggies or plastic containers: 16 cups blanched, peeled, cored, chopped tomatoes 4 cups chopped green onions ¾ cups chopped jalapenos 2 cups chopped peppers, use a variety of sweet peppers 4 cloves garlic ¾ cup vinegar 1 Tbsp sugar 2 Tbsp salt 1 tsp cumin ½ bunch cilantro Mix, simmer until thick (2 hours). Hot water bath can for 15 minutes. Zucchini Bread (Good, easy, healthy, freezable – what’s not to love!) Makes 2 loaves 3 eggs 1 cup oil 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup white sugar 3 tsp maple flavoring 2 cups raw, grated zucchini 2 ½ cups flour (I use half whole wheat) ½ cup wheat germ 2 tsp soda 2 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder 1 cup chopped walnuts Sesame seeds Mix in order given. Pour in greased, floured bread pans. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake 1 hour at 350 degrees. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back A Cinderella Eggplant Recipe Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Fall is here, and Joy Johnson’s garden is harvested. She picked and stored her veggies with the best intentions to use them all at their peak of ripeness. But when she found a long, skinny eggplant that she forgot about in the bottom drawer of her refrigerator, she made sure not to waste it. Read Joy’s hearty eggplant recipe that tastes great. Fall is here, my garden is harvested. I pick and store my veggies with the best intentions to use them all at their peak of ripeness. Then about 3 weeks later I find one or two that I forgot about in the bottom drawer of my refrigerator. This year it was a long skinny eggplant. I can’t stand to waste anything, so here’s a hearty recipe that tastes great. My husband asked me for three days after I made it, if I’d written it down so I wouldn’t forget what I’d done. He would like me to make it again, and that’s saying something since he has often vowed, he doesn’t like eggplant. Eggplant Chicken Layers with a Crunchy Crust Ingredients: 1 large egg plant or two 2 large chicken breasts ½ cup breadcrumbs ½ cup chopped walnuts 6 Tablespoons Olive Oil 2 cups tomatoes, I used mostly Cherry tomatoes, but sliced one large also to make enough 2 Tablespoons + 1 Tsp minced garlic 2 Tablespoons dill seed 3 Tablespoons dried parsley ½ cup grated cheddar cheese ½ cup grated Romano cheese Process: 1. Adjust two racks to the top and bottom position of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil. 2. Pierce the eggplants all over with a fork, and place on the foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil. Roast on the top rack until completely soft when pierced with a paring knife, 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, toss the grape tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds pepper. Spread on a small baking sheet and roast in the same oven until the tomatoes are soft and wrinkled, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. 4. Put the chicken breast in a covered baking dish and bake it at the same time as the eggplant and tomatoes. Let it cool, then slice into thick pieces. Lay them in the bottom of an oiled 2-quart baking dish 5. Mix together the breadcrumbs, walnuts, about one teaspoon garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Drizzle in 3 tablespoons olive oil and mix until the mixture starts to clump. Reserve. 6. When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, halve them and scoop the soft flesh into the bowl with the tomatoes. Discard the skins and stems. 7. Using a fork or spoon, mash the eggplant into smaller bite-sized pieces. (It's okay if the tomatoes get mashed in the process.) Add the garlic, dill and parsley, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Check for seasoning and add more salt, if needed. 8. Spread the eggplant tomato mixture over the sliced chicken breast pieces in the casserole dish. 9. Sprinkle cheddar and Romano cheese on top 10. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top 11. Bake about 30-35 minutes until the top is golden brown This was truly a garden to kitchen meal! I served it with homemade chunky cinnamon applesauce, with a sprinkling of a few late golden raspberries, home grown yellow beans, and homemade bread and butter pickles. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Spring is the Time for Wedding Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the season for weddings which prompts Master Gardener Joy Johnson to think about Italian Wedding Soup. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings; it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Read and learn how to make this soup part of your soup rotation – any time of the year. And, as a bonus, learn how to make Apple Butter to enjoy with your soup! It is so exciting that spring has arrived in Minnesota, I’ve doubled the size of my vegetable garden this year and started dozens of vegetables in early spring in the house. Now it’s time to put them out into the garden. They are all still young plants, many weeks away from harvest. But I am anticipating a bountiful harvest, so I need to use up what I canned, dried and froze from last year’s harvest to make room for this year’s produce. Spring is also the season for weddings, which makes my mind wander to Italian Wedding soup , which I love. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings, it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Usually, this soup takes a long time to make because it traditionally has tons of tiny little meatballs. Instead, I season ground chicken with lots of herbs and spices and then brown it. You get all the same flavors and textures without all the work. This soup is made silky and rich by the eggs stirred in at the end that cook into yummy wisps. I serve this soup with my homemade apple butter spread on my sour dough bread, with a glass of my homemade apple juice. I got a fruit steamer last fall and steamed my apples to get a fresh, sugar free, juice. Then I pressure canned the quarts of juice. We’ve been enjoying it all winter long and have just finished our last quart. The recipe for the apple butter makes very good use of the apple chunks that I had frozen last fall and is quick to make using a blender. Italian Wedding Soup Ingredients : ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey 1 medium onion ¼ cup dried parsley 1 T. dried basil 1 T. dried oregano 2 tsp. smoked paprika1 ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 medium carrots, chopped (fresh or frozen) 4 celery stalks, chopped 2 T. finely chopped garlic 8 cups chicken broth 6 cups spinach (fresh or frozen) 10 ounces cheese tortellini 2 T. lemon juice 2 large eggs Process : In a large pot combine the olive oil, chicken, onion, parsley, basil, oregano, paprika, ¼ cup of the Parmesan and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place pot over medium-high heat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the meat is browned and the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 5 minutes. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the flavors are married, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tortellini, and lemon juice. Cook until the tortellini are al dente, 5 minutes more. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the broth, stirring the soup constantly and gently to form thin strands of cooked egg, about 30 seconds. Ladle into bowls and serve, topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. Maple Apple Butter Ingredients : 10 cups chopped apples, fresh or frozen 1 ¼ cups apple juice (or apple cider if you don’t have fresh juice) ½ cup pure maple syrup, plus more as needed 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Pinch of fine pink Himalayan salt Process : Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a blender, working in batches as needed, combine the apples with the apple juice/cider and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add the maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt and stir to combine. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Give the apple butter a stir and reduce the oven temperature to 350. Continue roasting, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 to 1 ½ hours more until the apple butter is thick and golden brown. Taste and add more maple syrup as needed. Discard the cinnamon sticks, if using. Let the apple butter cool. Store refrigerated in airtight glass jars for up to 1 month. I also use this apple butter to make Chai Donuts , but you will have to wait until next month for that recipe! Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Low Cal Jerk Chicken Tacos? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener If you are trying to lose your extra ‘Covid’ pounds or working on getting back in gardening shape or just like great chicken tacos, you will love this recipe. In this offering, Master Gardener Joy Johnson still manages to find something from her garden to place into her March recipe. By the time March rolls around, we’ve all probably given up on our New Year’s resolutions, but if you are still trying to lose your extra ‘Covid 19 lbs’ like I am, here’s a low calorie (272 calories in two tacos), delicious recipe that pops with flavor. I made my own jerk seasoning, which is listed here, but you can purchase a jar of jerk spice as an alternative. Slow Cooker Jerk Chicken Tacos with Caribbean Salsa Serves 8 Ingredients for jerk seasoning: 2 T onion flakes ½ tsp each of Thyme, cinnamon, paprika, cumin, salt, nutmeg, sugar ¼ tsp black pepper 1 T dried parsley (this is the only ingredient that actually came from my garden – hey, it’s March) Ingredients: 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 T jerk seasoning Kosher salt 2 ½ lbs boneless chicken breasts 2 T lime juice ½ c orange juice 2 T chopped fresh cilantro Ingredients for Caribbean Salsa : 2 large mangos, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 1 avocado, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 2 T chopped red onion 2 T chopped fresh cilantro 2 T lime juice ¼ tsp salt Black pepper 12 extra thin yellow corn tortillas Process for the Chicken : Combine the garlic, jerk seasoning, and ½ tsp salt and spread it over the chicken. Put the chicken, the lime and orange juices, and cilantro in the crock pot. Cover and cook on high for 2 hours. Process for the Salsa : In a medium bowl, combine the mango, avocado, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, salt, and black pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove the chicken from the slow cooker and shred it with two forks. Pour any liquid left in the slow cooker into a bowl, then return the chicken to the slow cooker. Add 1 cup of the reserved liquid, just enough to moisten the chicken, and season with 1/8 tsp salt and black pepper to taste. Heat the tortillas in a skillet set over medium-high for about 30 seconds. Fill each with 1/3 cup of the chicken and 2 T of salsa. Photo credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)