< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back The Midwest Native Plant Primer Alan Branhagen is a well-known expert on native plants in Minnesota. Jim Lakin reviews Branhagen’s “Primer” on why you should consider planting natives in your yard. Once you are convinced, learn which plants to grow. Reviewed by Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener So many plant guides, trying to be encyclopedic, become as engaging as a phone book. Alan Branhagen’s latest addition to the literature of Midwestern botany happily avoids this pitfall. A native of Decorah, Iowa and current Director of Operations at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, Alan is passionate about the plants he describes. In this concise yet informative sourcebook Alan deftly describes 225 plants for an earth-friendly garden. This is a timely addition to our reference library as we become increasingly aware of the vital importance of native plants to the support of our complex and interwoven ecosystem. A well-considered introduction discusses plants native to the heartland of North America. As we Minnesotans well know, “No place else on earth has such an extreme continental climate , yet ours is a region filled with plants of every size in every hue…Native plants are important because they sustain all life in this landscape. Many animals, mainly insects, through millennia of adaptations and evolution are viscerally linked to a specific plant.” He discusses the various subregions of this vast and varied land, enabling us to understand the diversity of environment that must be kept in mind in selecting native plants. The mantra “the right plant in the right place” holds very true for natives. Other considerations include “who are you planting for...birds, insects, humans? The answer will influence the plant to select. The aesthetics of the garden may come into play for the Homo sapiens. For birds or insects, that may not be the prime criteria. But each species may have quite stringent requirements for the right plant species to provide the food and/or shelter for survival. For example, wild grapes act as host for the Pandora Sphinx caterpillar. This fellow in turn provides protein rich food for young birds. Absent the plant, the web of life is broken. Alan discusses designing with native plants, considering various styles—prairie, woodland, water, rock or edible gardens—along with a few words on maintenance. One thing about maintenance of native plants: they’ve been getting along just fine without humans for millennia. So, in a properly constructed native landscape maintenance should be minimal relative to our more formal gardens of exotic cultivars. Finally, the author provides a listing of the 225 most desirable native perennials for the various micro-climates discussed. Plants are listed in order of common names, a plus if you are not a Latin scholar. For easier reference they are subdivided into trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines. The book itself is lavishly illustrated with a plethora of photos by the author and other photographers. Once again Timber Press produces a handsome volume that will grace the gardener’s library as a valuable and engaging reference. * Branhagen, A. The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland Oregon, 2021, 253 pages. Photo credit: Book jacket (1)

< Back Wild Rice - Our State Grain What looks like rice, cooks like rice, and is named like rice, but isn’t actually rice? It’s our Minnesota state grain: wild rice. Click here to find out more about this culturally important Minnesota symbol. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Wild rice, or manoomin, translated to “good berry”, as the Ojibwe people call it, is not really a rice at all. It is actually an annual aquatic grass native to Minnesota. It officially became the state grain of Minnesota on May 27, 1977. This article will touch on the history, some interesting facts, and attempt to portray the incredible significance of this “food that grows on water.” Wild rice has been a source of food for humans, fish, and waterfowl for thousands of years. Through excavation, it has been found in layers of earth dating back 12,000 years. At one time, it was documented to grow in 45 of Minnesota’s 87 counties. While it grows beyond the borders of our state, Minnesota has more acres of natural wild rice than any other state. Additionally, our state harvests between 4 and 10 million pounds of cultivated “wild” rice each year. Another large producer of cultivated wild rice is California. A ‘white rice” farmer tried growing it after receiving seeds from a Minnesota friend in the early 70’s. Historically, natural wild rice grows on its own, reseeding every year in a delicate ecosystem that is difficult to replicate - in case you want to try growing it on your own. Ideal conditions are waters that are 1 to 3 feet deep with a slight current, that isn’t so strong that it uproots the plants, and has a soft organic bottom. It grows 3 to 9 feet tall and is sensitive to fluctuations in water depth. Other water vegetation such as water lilies, water shield, and pickerel weed sometimes compete with wild rice and may limit production. The plants are wind-pollinated with both male and female flowers growing on the same stalk. Typically, in late August into September, the seeds ripen at various times so that harvesting can be repeated more than once in the same area. Seeds that fall back into the water will form new plants over the following year or two. Traditionally, the harvest is done with two people in a canoe. One is the “poler,” guiding the canoe through the rice beds with a forked pole constantly looking ahead for plants heavy with mature seeds. The other person is the “knocker.” Using two carved cedar sticks about 30 inches long, the knocker gently pulls the stalks over the canoe with one stick and then tap-taps the stalks rhythmically causing the mature seeds to fall into the canoe. Some Native people recite “miigwech!” or “thank you” with each repetition of the process to thank the Creator for the nutritious food that lasted and sustained their ancestors through long winters. Next, the grain is dried, then parched or roasted, and finally the chaff is removed. In contrast to natural wild rice, the University of Minnesota began studying wild rice production back in the 1950’s. By 1973, the University had established a wild rice research program which helped lead to the growth of Minnesota’s commercial wild rice industry. According to the Minnesota Secretary of State, there are about 20,000 acres of commercially farmed wild rice in Minnesota. The harvesting process is very different compared to natural wild rice harvests. Instead, it is grown as a farm crop, where rice paddies are drained when the seeds are mature, and combines are used to harvest the crop. Most of the wild rice in grocery stores is cultivated. To try natural wild rice, make sure the package does not say “cultivated” on it. An obvious difference is that due to the more labor intensive harvest methods, natural wild rice is more expensive to purchase, but some people also notice differences in how it cooks and tastes compared to commercially grown wild rice. If you are interested in harvesting wild rice yourself, there are some strict guidelines set by the Minnesota DNR. You must purchase a license, harvest only during restricted harvest periods in approved areas and use only traditional methods with no mechanized tools. All of the regulations can be found here . Failure to follow the regulations can result in a fine up to $1000 and/or 90 days in jail. Studies at the University of Minnesota have found wild rice has antioxidant properties and phytochemicals to boost immune systems. Wild rice is low in fat, but high in fiber and protein, and gluten free. One cup of cooked wild rice is only 166 calories, yet provides 6.5 grams of protein. It is also rich in folic acid, niacin, potassium, zinc and several B vitamins. Here are some wild rice fun or interesting facts: It is said that wild rice can be popped like popcorn, but that is only partially true. It can be popped, but don’t expect the results to be like popcorn. The kernels “pop” but are probably more suited to garnish on a salad rather than a snack to have during movie night! Lumberjacks used to eat wild rice with milk and honey for breakfast. Wild rice is the only cereal grain native to North America. Finally, like all living things in our fragile ecosystem, climate change, water quality, development and construction threaten the future of wild rice. In order to protect this food, valuable to humans and wildlife, and particularly impactful to Native culture and way of life, the White Earth Nation established the Rights of Manoomin in their tribal law, to protect the future of wild rice. To date, however, no U.S. court has recognized a rights of nature law. Cases are currently ongoing regarding the protection of wild rice. For further reading, these books and websites are recommended by the Andersen Horticultural Library at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, University of Minnesota, For youth: ~The Ojibwa: Wild Rice Gatherers, by Therese DeAngelis. Blue Earth Books, 2003. Discusses the Ojibwa Indians, focusing on their tradition of gathering wild rice. Includes a rice recipe and instructions for making a dream catcher. ~The Sacred Harvest: Ojibway Wild Rice Gathering, by Gordon Regguinti. Lerner Publishing, 1992. 48 p. Glen Jackson, Jr., an eleven-yearold Ojibway Indian in northern Minnesota, goes with his father to harvest wild rice, the sacred food of his people. For adults: ~Our Manoomin, Our Life: The Anishinaabeg Struggle to Protect Wild Rice, by Winona LaDuke and Brian Carlson. White Earth Land Recovery Project, 2003. 24 p. ~Saga of the Grain: A Tribute to Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Growers, by Ervin A. Oelke, John Schumacher, and Robin Schreiner. Hobar Publications, 2007. 139 p. ~The Taming of Wild Rice, by Harold Kosbau. Treasure Bay Printing, 2005. 102 p. Wild Rice and the Ojibway People, by Thomas Vennum. Minnesota Historical Society Press. 1988. 357 p. ~Wild Rice, Star of the North: 150 Minnesota Recipes for a Gourmet Grain, by the 1006 Summit Avenue Society. McGraw-Hill, 1986. 188 p. Websites: ~1854 Treaty Authority: Grand Portage, Bois Forte.www.1854treatyauthority.org/wildrice/otherinfo.htm ~Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Council. www.mnwildrice.org/ ~Where the Wild Things Grow, by Ed Clark. AgWeb January 11, 2012. www.agweb.com/topproducer/article/where_the_wild_things_grow/ Resources for this article: https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/sites/top10plantsmn.umn.edu/files/2021-07/10plantsresourcelistforkids.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/symbol-official-item/minnesota/state-food-agriculture-symbol/wild-rice https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/1977/0/Session+Law/Chapter/348/pdf/ https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://www.mnwildrice.org/cultivated.php http://www.calwildrice.org/california-wild-rice-history.html https://www.1854treatyauthority.org/wild-rice/biology-of-wild-rice.html https://mooselakewildrice.com/about-wild-rice/about-wild-rice https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/regulations/wildrice/index.html#:~:text=Harvesting%20wild%20rice%20is%20open,accompanied%20by%20a%20licensed%20harvester . https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-grain-wild-rice/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/grass-sedge-rush/wild-rice#:~:text=palustris%20was%20once%20considered%20a,smaller%20spikelets%20 https://www.pca.state.mn.us/air-water-land-climate/protecting-wild-rice-waters#:~:text=In%201973%2C%20Minnesota%20adopted%20a,primarily%20in%20low%20sulfate%20waters.&text=Iron%20in%20sediment%20binds%20to,it%20nontoxic%20to%20wild%20rice . https://whiteearth.com/assets/files/judicial/codes/1855%20Res%20estab%20Rts%20of%20Manoomin%202018%20with%20Resolution.pdf Photo credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database (1), Minnesota Wildflowers (2), Lisa Olson (3, 4), All Creative Commons: intercontinentalcry.org (5)

< Back Harvesting Seeds for Native Prairie Restoration Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Dakota County Parks and Recreation is restoring the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. This article explains the how and why of native prairie restoration through the experience of Master Gardeners in Dakota County. Learn how you, too, can help wildlife and the environment by developing your own “pocket prairie” garden. Dakota County Parks and Recreation is attempting to restore the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. The science of prairie restoration has evolved over the last century as more is learned about how to do so effectively. Why should we be interested in prairie restoration? This excerpt from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explains why: [It] buffers and creates connections between isolated native prairie remnants, thereby making the larger prairie landscape more resilient to changing environmental conditions including climate change, pesticides, and invasive species [Helps to “sequester carbon,” (stabilizing carbon in the ground rather than in the atmosphere] Promotes water infiltration and storage (recharges groundwater, flood control, reduces erosion and nutrient runoff) Provides places for people to explore and learn about prairies Provides habitat for a variety of animals, from deer to damselflies Connects people—physically, intellectually, emotionally, and spiritually—with prairie's past, present, and future Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. In Dakota County, prairie restoration is done by collecting and using native seeds from its own “remnant prairies” (true native prairies) (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. “Restored native prairies” are prairies that have been restored with seeds from true native prairies or those plants’ descendants. Recently, Sam Talbot, a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, met with Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) to collect native plant seeds from “restored prairies.” One group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park and the other, at Whitetail Woods Regional Park. Note - seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. The purpose of this particular outing was to collect seed for various uses by the DCMGV. The seeds from these older restored prairies are not used as a source for new restorations so DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the free Seed Library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow . The rest of the seeds will be grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the group’s May Plant Sale. Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. In the fall, it is much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. On this day, Sam had arrived earlier and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup Plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie Cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild Bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into the envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he will host another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” You also have a role to play in restoring native prairies and improving our environment. You can plant a "pocket prairie" in your yard. Even small prairie gardens can provide habitat for pollinators and other wildlife and give you the joy of a beautiful natural landscape. Each month, this publication has been and will continue to feature native plants that you can grow in your garden. To learn more about native prairies and native gardening, go the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site noted above. Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1, 2, 3)

< Back Carrots and Parsnips Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your garden for eating in the winter. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. Learn more about how to grow and enjoy these healthy and tasty vegetables. Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your gardens for eating in the winter by pickling, boiling, blanching or freezing. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. There are many carrot varieties. When choosing them, consider size (long, thin carrots versus short, stubby ones) and the ultimate use, such as a great crunch when freshly picked, long term storage use, or cooking. Parsnips are white but look like carrots in that they are generally long and they taper from a thick top to a narrow end. Carrots and parsnips love sandy, loam soil. Unlike parsnips, carrots will grow in heavier clay soil as long as it is well-drained and not compacted. Soil can be improved by adding well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall. Always sow carrot or parsnip seeds directly into garden; do not start them in pots. Their long taproots begin to develop early and transplanting damages their root growth. The seeds are tiny and can be difficult to handle. Some people choose to buy carrot seed in a “tape” format or in pellets. Seed tape is more expensive but may yield better results because less thinning is required. Minnesota gardeners can begin to plant carrots directly into garden soil beginning April 15 and parsnips beginning May 1. For a continuous supply, one can plant sets of seeds 2 or 3 weeks apart. When the seedlings are 3-4 inches tall, the plants need to be thinned to allow roots to develop. Most importantly, they need consistent watering to avoid bitter, misshapen or undersized roots. Carrots can be harvested when they get to useable size but be sure to water the day before harvesting or after a rain to ensure root hydration. Make sure to loosen the soil around the carrot before pulling them out to avoid breaking the root. Remove the greens and clean the roots before eating or storing. Parsnips should remain in the ground until late fall and even into later spring. Cold soil temperatures increase the sugar content, so the later you dig out the roots, the sweeter they will be. Parsnips are best stored in a root cellar. Both vegetables are loaded with vitamins and nutrients that are good for you. Carrots have vitamin A and beta-carotene which may lower diabetes risk. They also contain calcium and vitamin K which is for good for bone health. Carrots are also known for their fiber which helps keep blood sugar levels under control. Parsnips are loaded with vitamin K and magnesium, and also contain fiber and antioxidants. The two vegetables have distinctive flavors. The parsnip has an almost spicey flavor, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon, whereas the carrot has a flavor that is closer to that of winter squash. Carrots can be eaten raw or cooked but parsnips are generally eaten cooks. Parsnips are generally sweeter than carrots and, in fact, were used as a sweetener before cane sugar was available. The bottom line - carrots and parsnips are nutritious and delicious! References: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-carrots-and-parsnips#diseases-3180361 https://www.organicauthority.com/eco-chic-table/carrots-vs-parsnips-whats-difference . Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. So was I once myself a swinger of birches. And so I dream of going back to be. It’s when I’m weary of considerations, And life is too much like a pathless wood… From Birches by Robert Frost The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. Mind, this is a full-sized tree and one that will send out roots from which spring a gathering of birches if left to their own devices. In other words, it probably is not a suitable planting for a small suburban lot. If you do have a bit of room, however, within a few years you can achieve a gorgeous stand of grey-white sentinels, rustling softly in the summer wind, gently presiding over the restrained winter landscape. About seventeen species of birch are native to North America. They are rapid growing, reaching as much as 80 feet in height with a spread about half the height. Birches tend to colonize open ground, especially after a fire or other disturbance. In general, they favor light, well-drained, acidic soils as are often seen as pioneer trees after a burn. Of these seventeen, three species are most often used for landscaping: Yellow birch, River birch and Paper birch. Yellow birch ( Betula alleghaniensis ) is found across the Great Lakes into Minnesota. It is easy to grow from seed and transplants well as is true of all three species. It makes a fine shade tree but should be planted in a moist, sheltered site. So, an area to the north or east of the house would be ideal. Once established, the trunk and limbs display a shimmering silvery to copper gray exfoliating bark. Try crushing the buds or stems. They give off a strong scent of wintergreen! River birch ( Betula nigra ) as the name implies is mostly confined to the flood plains and riverbanks of the Midwest. The lower Minnesota River is a great place to look for them. Unlike its sisters, it is primarily a southern Midwestern tree, cold-hardy up to USDA zone 4. Also, it is susceptible to highly alkaline soils. So, keep plantings away from streets and sidewalks with alkaline concrete deposits. It’s not a street tree. It looks great in clumps developing a charcoal grey trunk over time. The younger bark is an attractive exfoliating white, with cream to salmon shades underneath. Paper birch ( Betula papyrifera ) is greatly prized for its stunning white bark. It prefers the cooler Upper Midwest. Unfortunately, many have fallen to the bronze birch borer. Borer-resistant strains have been developed and should be sought in your local nursery. Paper birch requires full sun and requires well drained soil. It makes a dramatic mass planting on the edge of woodlands, its native niche. So, take your pick, depending on your situation. But a word of caution: don’t swing on them. As Robert Frost once admitted, “It was almost sacrilegious, climbing a birch tree till it bent, till it gave and swopped to the ground, but that’s what boys did in those days”. Plus ça change… Photo credits: Forestryimages.org - All Creative Commons (1-3)

< Back Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Jo Kapke, Master Gardener Cover crops are generally something home gardeners think of as being used only in large-scale growing operations—or don’t think of at all! However, the benefits of cover crop usage should entice home gardeners to experiment with them. Oat - Radish Cover crops are beneficial in many ways. They start by serving as a green mulch in your garden - they aid in weed suppression and erosion prevention. In large-scale operations cover crops are often used in walkways or as forage for animals. Some varieties of cover crops attract pollinators to the garden when they flower. Finally, and maybe most importantly, cover crops help with the health of your soil. Legume cover crops such as peas, vetch or clover fix nitrogen in the soil. The living roots of cover crops help maintain soil moisture, hold onto nutrients and support soil microorganisms. When the cover crop is eventually worked into the soil as a green manure, it further supports soil health by adding nutrients as the plant material decomposes. Red clover at the USDA NRCS Plant Material Center. The most daunting part of experimenting with cover crops is choosing the type of crop to use. The type of cover crop you plant depends on when you can plant it and what you are trying to achieve with the crop - nitrogen fixation, weed suppression, etc. Cover crops can be planted in spring (before warm-weather crops are planted), between plantings and after harvest. A winter-kill cover crop planted in the fall is recommended if you are trying cover crops in your home garden for the first time. Examples of cover crops that will die over winter are: buckwheat, oats, peas, berseem clover and tillage radish. General cover crop tips Cover crop seeds can be found at garden centers or online seed retailers. Plant cover crop seed densely; smaller areas can be planted by hand. Follow good crop rotation practices with cover crops. For example, don’t plant tillage radish in an area where other brassicas were harvested or will be planted the following spring. Mow or cut down flowering cover crops to prevent them from self-seeding. Dead plant material can be turned over in the spring or fall. If plant material doesn’t die over winter, wait 2-3 weeks after turning over the green material before planting new seeds or transplants. The Midwest Cover Crops Council has a fabulous tool designed for large-scale growers that can also be used by home gardeners. It includes detailed information on many varieties of cover crops. Cover Crop Decision Tool For more information about cover crops in Minnesota, visit: https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back American Smoketree - An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, MG Jim Lakin continues his series on smaller understory native trees with an article on the American Smoketree. This beautiful specimen can be pruned to be a small tree or large bush. It features stunning “smoke-like” clusters of flowers from which its name is derived. Read Jim’s article to learn more about this stunning specimen tree for your yard. We’ve been talking about smaller understory native trees over the winter, and the American Smoketree ( Cotinus obovatus) is a stunning conclusion to our little survey. This gorgeous small tree is sometimes called Chittamwood but by any name, it is native to the prairie covered limestone hillsides of southeastern Texas, extending up into the Ozarks, as well as the Smoky Mountains of eastern Tennessee and down into Alabama. It is a member of the Anacardaceae family, making it a cousin to the cashews and sumacs. In spite of its Southern roots, it is fully cold hardy through USDA zone 4. So, it should be a good bet for central and southern Minnesota as well as the Red River Valley. Sheltered areas up the near North Shore would also be suitable. You should look for well-drained soil and full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct light) when selecting a spot. It will tolerate partial sun (4 to 6 hours) but may grumble a bit. It will grow pretty easily and quickly from seed and transplants easily as it has a shallow, fibrous root system. That makes growing Smoketree from seed a good winter project if you are aiming for a grove of them! Smoketree showing its spring “smoke” Smoketree really is a landscaping asset if you have a hot, west-facing area on your lot. It grows well on exposed limestone and gravelly sites. So, if you have one of these difficult areas, by all means give Smoketree a go. Water well the first year or two and it will be happy thereafter. It seems to be remarkably free of disease or pest problems and once established requires little care. It usually attains a height of 20 to 30 feet with a width of 10 to 20 feet when mature. This beauty produces silky clusters of flowers in the spring that develop into feathery seeds. The seeds look like small clouds of smoke hovering over the leaves in the late spring and summer, giving Cotinus obovatus its common name. These leaves are rounded (obovate), 2 to 5 inches and of a greenish blue, almost steely color. In fall they turn a brilliant yellow to orange to fiery red. It’s quite a show. The bark is grayish brown and will break into scaly plates as the tree ages. That in itself is a point of interest after leaf fall. Smoketree in the fall There are a couple of common cultivars in the trade although they may be difficult to locate. The first is Cotton Candy™ American Smoketree Cotinus obovatus “NorthStar”. As the name implies it is hardy to zone 3. The other is Grace Smoketree ( Cotinus ‘Grace’). This is a hybrid of Cotinus obovatus and Cotinus coggygria . The latter is a Eurasian species which introduces some pest problems. You may encounter leaf spot, rust and verticillium wilt. Die back in severe winters can be a problem. It boasts large pink flowers in the spring and can be pruned either as a small tree or large shrub of some 15 to 20 feet. So, if you want to try one of these fancy hybrids, you may sacrifice hardiness for showiness. I think though, that sticking with the true native Cotinus obovatus will provide ample rewards over many disease-free years. Photo Credit: University of North Carolina (1), North Carolina State University (2)

< Back Manure – A Cautionary Tale Manure can benefit your garden in many ways but it also has negative consequences if used improperly. Read this article to learn how to use manure to reap its benefits without hurting your soil or plants. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Gardening can take a toil on soil, as plants pull vital nutrients for growth and production of flowers, vegetables, and fruit. Another important factor to growing plants is the soil structure. You can address both soil structure and nutrient-deficiencies needed to maintain or even increase the ability to grow vigorous plants by adding manure. Manure is the waste products of animals and has many benefits. However, there are a number of cautions you need to be aware of before just dumping manure on your garden. Manure increases soil organic matter, which can help improve soil structure. Manure also helps improve sandy soil’s ability to hold water and drainage in clay soil. It slowly releases nutrients into the soil and can promote beneficial soil organisms’ growth ( Compost and soil organic matter: the more, the merrier? , Penn State Extension ). Acceptable types of manure for use in vegetable gardens include cow, horse, sheep, goat, llama, rabbit, and chicken/poultry. There are some additional precautions to take if you are going to use chicken/poultry manure that will be discussed later in this article. ( Using chicken manure, UMN-Extension ). Rabbit manure is a great source of manure, 'bunny honey' . Pig, dog, cat, and human waste should NEVER be used in gardens as they are more likely to contain parasites. Use of manure in gardens does require precautions, especially where and when you use fresh or ‘raw’ manure. The biggest risk is that fresh manure may include bacteria and other pathogens that can cause diseases in humans such as e.Coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter bacteria, and others. You can’t determine if an animal may be carrying a pathogen by looking at them or their waste. For this reason, it is critical to not use fresh manure around vegetables as these pathogens can be taken up into vegetable plant tissue through the soil and water. Rabbit manure is the exception because of its pelletized form and low risk of pathogens. If fresh manure is applied to areas where food is grown, nothing should be planted in that location for at least four (4) months for any food product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles. If the food product does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles, then the timeframe is 90 days. ( USDA Organic Tipsheet: Manure in Organic Production Systems ). That means that you should not apply manure in the spring before planting unless you are only going to be planting late summer crops for fall harvest. ( Safely Using Manure, UW-Extension, Using Manure in the Home Garden, UW-Extension ). Early fall may be the best time for manure application. As noted above rabbit manure is the exception. It may be used ‘fresh’ and has many benefits over other types of manure including having four times the nutrients of horse and cow manure and twice the amount of chicken manure. Well composted chicken litter The best manure to use has been composted, which when done properly, can kill any harmful pathogens, stabilize the nutrients, and lower salts that are present. Composting manure, along with any bedding material or other substances, involves regular turning, aeration, and making sure the compost reaches specific temperatures for specific amounts of time. According to the USDA Organic Tipsheet , depending on how the composting is occurring, the manure must reach Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for three days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system. Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period the materials must be turned a minimum of five times, and this period must be followed by an adequate curing period. Composting raw manure into manure that is safe to use may be difficult, but not impossible, to achieve by a home gardener. Achieving and maintaining the high temperatures is challenging in a home environment and turning and aerating the pile is a considerable commitment. Another consideration when using manure is you don’t know the specific amounts of nutrients and micronutrients you are adding. It varies by the type of animal waste and any additional materials such as bedding that might be mixed into it. This is important because adding the wrong level of nutrients may produce less desirable effects. For example, if manure was added around tomato plants, the nitrogen might promote growth of the plant which may decrease the energy the plant puts into producing the tomatoes. Purchasing fertilizer in some instances might be a better approach as you can select the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (N-P-K) you add to specific areas of your garden. Despite all these cautions, adding manure can be beneficial to the home garden by improving the soil structure, water holding capacity, and through the slow release of nutrients. With a little care, your plants will reap the benefits and grow and produce vigorously. References: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x-9vEKg0K5NLijaqmuC0t-SPJgj6NAQI/view https://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/2019/10/got-chickens-fall-is-good-time-to.html chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Manure%20in%20Organic%20Production%20Systems_FINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/nutrient-management-specialty-crops/correct-too-much-compost-and-manure https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer https://extension.psu.edu/wise-use-of-manure-in-home-vegetable-gardens https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/safely-using-manure-garden/#:~:text=Many%20vegetable%20gardeners%20swear%20by,vegetables%20and%20cause%20human%20disease . https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-manure-in-the-home-garden/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Putting Your Garden to Bed If it’s yellow or brown, cut it down. If it’s green, leave it alone. This long-standing rule-of-thumb means you can’t just wake up one day and decide to put your garden to bed for the winter. It’s a gradual process because plants die back at different rates depending on when they transition energy to the roots. Cutting off green leaves can weaken a plant and affect its vigor and bloom next year. Besides, there are lots of reasons to avoid cutting shrubs, stems and perennials – for winter interest and for wildlife. Here are some ways to ready your gardens for cold and snow ahead. Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Ready for a Long Winter’s Nap? October is the time to put your garden to bed. This means cutting things back, cleaning up what's left, packing away tools and pots, and getting everything ready to go for next spring. Then you can settle in for winter knowing that your garden will look healthy and happily tucked in! Cut Back Keep your garden tidy and save labor later by cutting back many perennials after frost causes them to turn brown and die. On the other hand, some perennials (like Catmint) look good until the snow flies and can be left until spring. And some perennials offer seed heads for foraging birds…or shelter for beneficial insects. These plants support Mother Nature while providing some interest in what might otherwise be a bleak winter landscape. In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. Remember, don't prune woody plants, trees and shrubs until late winter when they are dormant. Clean Up Healthy plant debris can be composted at home or at a municipal compost site. Debris from plants with powdery mildew or other diseases should be composted at a municipal site, where temperatures get high enough to kill the disease. Pull dead or declining annuals. It's hard to do, but they won’t come back next spring. Clean up overgrown areas to prevent animals and pests from moving in – like brush piles or hidden spots around the yard where weedy trees and shrubs have taken root. Harvest everything above ground in the vegetable garden and under fruit trees. Don't leave fruits and vegetables out all winter to rot, attract animals, and set seed. Other Tasks Empty, clean and disinfect your containers by spraying them with a bleach cleaner. Pottery should be moved into a shed or garage to avoid freezing and breaking. Clean and store stakes, tomato cages, garden ornaments and other hardware. They’ll last longer and look better next spring. Clean soil from your tools, then sharpen edges with a file. Finish with a light coating of oil to prevent rusting. Move any plants that spend their winters inside. Quarantine before introducing them to your other houseplants to prevent pests from spreading. Dig up your tender bulbs and tubers well before the threat of frost. Store them in a warm, dry place out of direct light. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: October Gardening Tips from the University of Minnesota Arboretum – October Gardening Tips (umn.edu) Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2), University of Minnesota Extension (3, 4)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoke Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo Credit: Paul Wood (1,2)