< Back Disruption to Delight: Partnering with the City to Start a Bee Lawn Pat Peschman, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you interested in doing more to help our native pollinators? If so, consider turn all or part of your lawn into a bee lawn. A bee lawn can provide a recreational space for you and it can also provide much-needed food resources for bees and other beneficial pollinators. This article describes Master Gardener Pat Peschman’s experience with developing a bee lawn in her yard and includes some excellent advice. In 2024, my husband John and I received a dreaded letter announcing summer-long infrastructure and road maintenance that would impact our property. Initially, we only recognized the losses—our boulevard native garden had to move, our driveway would be torn up, and trees would be removed. However, my husband recognized an opportunity. We had discussed converting part of our lawn to a "bee lawn," to create habitat for pollinators. John developed a relationship with the project manager for the construction, and through this partnership, our new bee lawn became a reality. Benefits of a Bee Lawn A bee lawn is a combination of turf grass and flowering plants. It is low-growing, allowing it to replace a traditional lawn while maintaining a manicured appearance and tolerating some foot traffic. Bee lawns offer several advantages over turf lawns including: Pollinator Support: Flowering plants provide nectar and pollen throughout the growing season. Low Input: Requires less water, fertilizer, and herbicides. Low Maintenance: Requires less mowing. (My husband only mowed our bee lawn twice the first year!) While bee lawns should not be our only approach to feeding pollinators, they can be a piece of the puzzle. 1. Location and Site Prep Select a site with well-drained soil that receives full to part sun (at least 3-6 hours of direct sun per day). Avoid heavily trafficked areas to prevent soil compaction. The site will need to be prepared to receive and support the seed. The "Construction" Method: We had a unique advantage because the city tore up the lower third of our lawn. Instead of resodding, they collaborated with us to create spaces for the bee lawn, bringing in clean black dirt and even watering the area. The DIY Method: If you do not have construction assistance: Ideally, remove the lawn with a sod cutter or rototiller. If weed pressure is high, solarize the area by applying clear plastic for several weeks. At a minimum, cut existing lawn very short and rake heavily to expose the soil. layout of bee lawn 2. The Seed Mix Bee lawn seed is a combination of cool-season turf grass, particularly fine fescues, and flower seeds. Kentucky bluegrass will work as well but requires more input. Recommended flower species include: Dutch White Clover Self-heal Creeping Thyme Note: These mixes are commercially available at many garden centers or through companies that support or install bee lawns. Self-Heal and White Clover 3. Seeding Timeline Late Fall (Ideal): Also known as "dormant seeding" (early Nov to mid-Dec). Spread seed evenly over prepared soil, a seed spreader works well. Winter weather works the seed into the ground, and minimal watering is required. Spring: Wait until mid-May (after frost danger). Lightly rake the seed into the soil. This requires frequent watering (lightly, 2-3 times per day) until germination. In both seasons, apply a light straw cover so birds do not eat your seed. 4. Maintenance and Care Watering: Once established, only water during prolonged drought. Fertilizing: Dutch white clover fixes nitrogen in the soil, so fertilization is rarely needed. Mowing: Wait until the lawn is 5–6 inches high, avoid mowing when the lawn is flowering. Only remove the top one-third of the plants. Leave the clippings on the lawn. Mow in late fall to prep the lawn for winter. Weeding: some hand weeding may be required the first season bee lawn flowers and ruler measuring height A Buzzing Success Since establishing our bee lawn, countless individuals walking past our property have stopped to inquire about the lawn and offer compliments. We have definitely seen our lawn abuzz with pollinators. This year’s goal is to try to count and identify our visitors! References: Planting and Maintaining a Bee Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn#preparing-to-plant-2941611 Consider a Flowering Bee Lawn to Help Pollinators: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/consider-a-flowering-bee-lawn-to-help-pollinators What is a Bee Lawn: https://northerngardener.org/bee-lawn/ Photo Credits: Pat Peschman (1,3) University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Square Foot Gardening Do you want to grow vegetables in your garden but you don’t have a lot of space or you only have one sunny spot or your soil isn’t conducive to growing or you just want a few vegetables for your family? Square foot gardening may be your answer. This approach will save time, work, space, and water. And, you will produce some delicious vegetables for your family. Read this article for more information about why square foot gardening may be for you and how to get started. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener With a short growing season, gardeners want high yields of fresh produce from their vegetable gardens, yet many people have limited space suitable for growing. “Square Foot Gardening” is a method of gardening with the underlying premise of producing a greater variety of vegetables in a small space. It is also intended to make gardening more accessible to a greater number of people. According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation website , this method is, “estimated to cost 50% less, use 20% less space, 10% of the water, and 2% of the work”. They state there will be almost no weeds and you save time and effort because you don’t have to dig, rototill, or use heavy equipment, and fertilizers aren’t needed. It almost sounds too good to be true! However, many people have used this method successfully for 25 years. In the U.S., our standard gardening approach is to plant in rows. This is how many of us have done it for generations, passed down through our families. We have developed tools that support this approach for watering and weeding between the rows, using mulch papers or rototillers small enough for a row. We have row markers, seed tapes, and many other gardening supplies that support the row gardening approach. According to Bartholomew, this approach makes gardening harder than it needs to be with much of the growing space given over to aisles between the plants, resulting in a need to constantly weed those non-growing areas. He also argues that planting in rows results in overplanting. He uses the example of planting cabbages, suggesting few people find it useful to have 30 cabbage heads ripening at the same time. Square foot gardening suggests a different approach that carefully spaces plants to efficiently use space, manage the size of the harvest, and allow for successive planting, e.g., growing multiple crops in one growing season. Instead of sowing seeds and then having to thin the plants, this approach suggests placing the seeds at the distance you’d thin the plants. For example, if the seed packet says thin to 6 inches between plants, you can just space your seeds out that distance in all directions within the square. You can put a ‘pinch’ of seeds in each planting site to increase the chances of germination and instead of thinning, snip out the unneeded plants. This lessens the chance of disturbing or weaking the roots of the plant you are keeping. Most square foot gardens are 4 feet x 4 feet raised beds. They can be other sizes; however, you will want to make sure you can reach all areas of the bed without stepping on the soil. Stepping on soil compacts it, which makes it more difficult for plants to grow. The soil in the raised bed should be a mix of compost, vermiculite, and peat moss. The location of the square foot garden is important, with sufficient sunlight important and access to a water source. Bartholomew suggests placing it near the house so you always have a visual on your growing plants. Within the 4 x 4 space (or whatever size bed being used), a grid of 1 foot x 1 foot squares are laid to mark out each plot. In a 4 x 4 bed, you will have 16 squares in which to plant. The number of plants or seeds you grow in each square is dependent on the full size of the vegetable or flower. For example, in the 1 ft x 1 ft square, you could grow one tomato, or four heads of lettuce, or eight bunches of swiss chard, or sixteen carrots, or thirty-two radishes. Once you have harvested the vegetable, a new crop can be planted. Since one of the other premises of Square Foot Gardening is reducing the need for fertilizer, Bartholomew says you only need to add a shovel of compost prior to each new planting. Square foot gardening will meet the needs of many gardeners. However, those wanting to produce large harvests for canning, freezing, and other methods of preserving, may not find they get the quantities they want using this method. For those wanting a manageable amount of produce, this may be a great way to help limit the amount grown, although if you grow a zucchini plant, you will probably still need to sneak around after dark ‘bestowing’ your bounty on your neighbors’ doorsteps. References: Square Foot Gardening Foundation: https://squarefootgardening.org/ All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Square Foot Gardening. Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia Square foot gardening: a formula for successful intensive gardening. Michigan State University Extension Photo credits: Master Gardener Program of North Virginia (1), Michigan State Extension (2)

< Back Shrubs With Fall Fireworks Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As the crisp air of autumn settles over Minnesota, the landscape transforms into a vibrant canvas of fiery reds, golden yellows, and deep oranges. While the towering maples and oaks often steal the spotlight, a stunning variety of fall color shrubs add rich layers and texture to the seasonal display. From the brilliant red foliage of the red chokeberry to deep purple leaves of the Flaviramea yellow stem dogwood, these hardy shrubs not only thrive in Minnesota’s climate but also bring dramatic fireworks of color to gardens, parks, and natural areas. Their dazzling hues and low-maintenance nature make them a must-have for anyone looking to extend the beauty of fall well into the season. Read this article to see which shrubs shine bright in the fall. Cause of color change in fall leaves: Fall color in leaves is driven by three pigments: chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll, the green pigment, is crucial for photosynthesis during the growing season. In the fall, the day length shortens and temperatures cool, which triggers plants to prepare for winter by reducing chlorophyll production. When chlorophyll production stops, the green color fades, revealing the yellow and orange hues of carotenoids. Also, anthocyanins, which give red and purple colors, are produced in late summer and early fall as photosynthesis slows down. Environmental factors, like warm days and cool nights enhance anthocyanin production, leading to vibrant colors. Not every shrub species produces carotenoids or anthocyanins in equal quantities. This is what creates the difference in fall color from species to species: Intensity and duration of leaf color varies with each season : Weather conditions in early fall largely determine the intensity and duration of leaf color. The best fall color shows when days in early fall are sunny and mild, and nights are cool but remain above freezing. Long periods of cloudy, rainy weather or a hard freeze in early fall will mute fall colors. Obtaining a fall shrub fireworks display : Continue to show off your beautiful garden in the fall, after the summer blooms have disappeared, with some of these shrubs: Limelight Hydrangea Chokeberry: Black chokeberry, like the "Viking" variety, yields spectacular, bright red autumn foliage and is known for less suckering, compact growth and large berries after white spring flowers. Note: The chokeberry is considered a good substitute to the burning bush, which is now considered a restrictive noxious weed in Minnesota. https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush Redosier Dogwood: The versatile, fast-growing dogwood reveals bright red or yellow stems as the season progresses. Some varieties, like the 'Flaviramea', bring red-purple fall foliage, too. Hydrangea: Choose from many Minnesota hardy hydrangea shrubs that explode with enthusiasm in the summer months and, then, grant us all an encore of mauves, greens and golden-brown flower heads in the fall. ‘Limelight' hydrangea starts with a lime-colored summer display and ends with deep pink as it ages. Staghorn Sumac: This native shrub exhibits bright reds and oranges in the fall and works well in a larger area. ‘Tiger-eyes’ sumac is a smaller selection of staghorn sumac, requiring less space in your garden. It boasts chartreuse green foliage in the spring, yellow foliage during the summer and fiery orange foliage in the fall. Staghorn Sumac There are many more shrubs that provide a pleasing color display in the fall. Maximize the color blast of your Minnesota garden with the endless fall color shrub varieties listed in the sources below. SOURCES: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-fall-color-faq https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/trees-and-shrubs-great-fall-color https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/black-chokeberry https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/redosier-dogwood https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/serviceberry https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/trees-and-shrubs https://extension.umn.edu/news/growing-hydrangea-minnesota https://trees.umn.edu/tiger-eyes-sumac-rhus-typhina-bailtiger Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2), University of Missouri, Integrated Pest Management (3)

< Back Lavender Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener With its silvery-green foliage, upright flowers and compact form, lavender is an ideal addition to any garden. You can harvest it for fragrant flower arrangements, culinary uses, sachets and potpourri. Read this article for some tips on growing lavender in Minnesota. Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) is a cutting gardener’s favorite that combines function and beauty. The distinctive fragrance and attractive foliage make lavender a companion plant for a rose garden by covering the lower rosebush canes. Essential oils are said to revive the spirits and fragrant blooms are said to have a calming effect. It has been a difficult plant to grow in zone 4 despite the alkaline soil that lavender prefers. Lavender often died in Minnesota until new research from the Chicago Botanic Garden Plant Trials (2017) showed which varieties are hardy in their USDA Zone 5 conditions. Based on an evaluation process the following seven types are hardy in zones 4 and 5: Imperial Gem, Royal Velvet, Munstead, Super Blue, Jean Davis, Niko, and Sharon Roberts. With a winter mulch of chopped leaves plus some topsoil, to keep the leaves in place, gardeners in the Twin Cities metro area have been successful with the Munstead variety. Ideally 2 feet of snow will protect the plant, also. Growing lavender in this area requires full sun, and well-drained soil—gravelly or sandy soils are ideal. Growers should plant early in the spring to allow for the longest growing season. Maintenance needs are few since lavenders do not need irrigation or fertilizer. Deadheading is the gardener’s choice but it will keep the plant neat looking. Cut the plant back one-third after blooming. Do not cut back to the ground in the fall. The gardener may need to trim the branches in the spring for reshaping. Natural oils of the lavender plant repel most grazing animals such as deer and rabbits. The fragrant blooms may be harvested and dried to make fragrant lavender pockets for sweaters or the lingerie drawer. Other uses include baking, teas, a drop in an infuser, or drop on a pillowcase to improve sleep quality. References Chevallier, Andrew. Herbal Remedies. Easy-to-Use Visual Reference Guide. Lavenders for Northern Gardens, Richard G. Hawke , Plant Evaluation Manager and Associate Scientist, Chicago Botanical Gardens. 2017. Good Lavenders for the North! Mary H. Meyer, Extension Horticulturist and Professor. Extension.umn.edu Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2,3)

< Back Therapeutic Landscapes for Stress Relief Feeling stressed? Has the Covid culture left you feeling socially isolated? Learn about the healing power of gardens and gardening in this article. Cathy Johnson, Master Gardener The notion that gardens are healing places is not new. It is well supported in research that outside settings improve mental and physical health . . . improved focus, improved creativity, reduced depression and stress, shortened hospital stays and increased test scores in classrooms where plants are growing. One only has to look at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Nature Heals Toolkit to see the profound connection between nature and healing. After all, folks are Covid weary beyond belief and wondering - is there some end in sight for the recurring surges and resulting restrictive lifestyle which seems to be the new norm? Peter Petrow of the Washington Post wrote an article, ‘Embracing Healing Places,’ which led me to thinking about how therapeutic landscapes might just be even more healing now than ever. After all, humans are “biophilic” - innately drawn to life - because we are genetically connected to plants and nature. Being in nature makes our brains secure, more connected to what our bodies are experiencing. But the Covid pandemic resulted in more of us working indoors, some seldom having to leave our places of residence. We have become used to using our computers to shop and having items delivered, reducing the need to go outside. Social isolation can only increase feelings of disconnect, and a longing for things to “get back to normal.” Geraldine Perriam, a professor at the University of Glasgow, states that humans, while on a quest for healing, seek not just a cure, but alleviation and improvement in life style. The question for individuals then becomes, ‘Where do you need to go to for healing? What places make you feel better. The answer will be different for everyone, but a few common threads emerge from research, which are helpful to us all. Water is the most common element listed in descriptions of healing places. The colors of blue and green are associated with calm, positive energy and better health outcomes. The obvious connection between the life-giving properties plants and water, comes to mind. On a quest for a feeling of well-being, columnist Pagan Kennedy suggests just going someplace where you can work the soil with your hands. Why? M. Vaccae , a soil bacterium, acts like an anti-depressant once it enters the human body. David Conradson, professor at the University of Canterbury New Zealand, suggests that folks go wherever they feel connected to nature. Are your senses being stimulated . . . all five of them? Sensory stimulation is essential to achieving balance and a sense of ease. In these Covid weary times, humans want to feel “put together again.” Gardening is an authentic experience which provides all of the elements which humans seek in that quest for alleviation, a path toward healing. In imagining your “therapeutic landscape,” remember to think about where you need to go to feel better and be intentional about recognizing those feelings. Look at a map and find green or blue spaces, walk in your yard, or a neighborhood park. Go out of your way to seek your healing place. As for me, I think I’m headed for a garden with some green and blue, some trickling water, some fragrances, warmth, humidity, and just a place to unwind. Maybe I’ll see you there. Hygge on! References: Nature Heals Community Engagement Toolkit, University of Minnesota Extension Larson, Jeanne and Mike Maddox. Center for Spirituality and healing University of Minnesota. Presentation in June of 2019 at State Master Gardener’s Meeting. “Healing Aspects of Gardening” Petrow, Steven. Washington Post, ‘Embracing ‘healing places,’ January 4, 2022. Many references cited. Photo Credit: Free from Pixababy (1,2) & University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Rose Mallow - A Rose of the North Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Have a riverbank, marsh, or rain garden to manage? Consider adding the lovely, long-blooming Rose Mallow. This article will tell you why and how. Hibiscus lasiocarpos As Juliet observed of her beloved Romeo, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” We may then ask, “Would that which we call a rose be less beautiful if it is not?” To this I would unhesitatingly say, “Yes in the case of the rose mallow”. H. lasiocarpos and H. moscheutos are nearly identical members of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They are native to most of the Lower Midwest and northward to areas around Lakes Michigan and Erie. Their closely related cousin, the somewhat more cold-tolerant Halberd-leaved rose mallow ( H. laevis ) is native to Southeast Minnesota and up the Missouri River Valley. The rose mallows are hardy through zones 4-9. These perennials are closely related to the much-prized tropical hibiscus. Halberd-leaved rose mallow As you might expect, this gorgeous plant has been hybridized into a large number of attractive cultivars available at your local nursery. The value of these cultivars to our pollinators remains to be determined. There is no question, however that the three native species are key players in the ecological web of the Northern Midwest. They are very nectar and pollen rich, being great additions to a pollinator garden. Halberd-leaved rose mallow The rose mallows are essentially a wetlands plant found around lakes and rivers. They may even be seen growing in standing water. They do well though in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. If they are in a bed, remember to water them during dry, mid-summer weather. They eventually grow to about five feet so you should keep that in mind if inserting them into a border garden. They do well as a backdrop to sun loving ground covers. Rose mallow is slow to emerge from dormancy but once in gear it is a rapid grower, putting on as much as an inch per day. The blooms are quite showy, appearing from July to September so you would do well to mix them with earlier blooming perennials such as Jacob’s Ladder or creeping phlox. The flowers are from three to five inches across with a red center “eye” from which the stamen protrudes. Flower petals may vary from white to shades of pink. Once established, application of a slow-release fertilizer in the spring can enhance growth. While you are at it, pruning back the old growth to about six inches will help to make way for the new foliage. Deadheading usually is not necessary. Rose mallow winters over pretty well although putting a couple of inches of mulch over the plants in the fall will reduce the chance of winter kill. So, if you have a riverbank, marsh or rain garden to plant, you would do well to incorporate the lovely rose mallow. Photo Credit: Taylor Creek Nursery (1,2,3)

< Back Attracting Monarch and Swallowtail Butterflies to your garden Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the sweetest events in a Minnesota June, is the appearance of butterflies in the garden. These delicate creatures are not only astonishingly beautiful but a key link in a healthy environment. In this article, you will learn about the life cycles of two butterfly species - Monarch and Swallowtail; along with what plants to grow to encourage them to take up residence in your garden. One of my favorite times of the year occurs when the butterflies arrive and grace my gardens. When I installed my gardens a few years ago, it was with the intention of attracting Monarchs so that I could teach my daughter (now 9 years old) about this gorgeous butterfly and the importance of supporting our pollinators. This interest continues to strengthen each year as we support generations of Monarchs that move through our gardens and then off into the world. There are two critical elements for attracting butterflies: 1) a host plant and 2) a nectar source. If you share an interest in inviting either Monarchs or Swallowtails to your garden, I will show you how to attract them, support their young and nourish the adults. Monarchs Host Plant The Monarch is very picky when it comes to its choice of a host plant, but for good reason! The one, and only preferred host plant for the Monarch, is Milkweed, and it was chosen due to the milky sap that young Monarch caterpillars ingest, which offers protection against hungry predators looking for a caterpillar snack. One thing that I have noticed is that if you have little sprouts of milkweed that pop up at the edge of your flower bed, you will likely find a good population of eggs under the tiny leaves. The reason Monarchs use the smaller plants at the edge of the garden is because the eggs, while further away from the larger host plant, are also further away from eager predators who monitor the host plant for eggs and caterpillar. So, before you thin out your garden, check under the leaves for eggs! Monarchs will also lay eggs near Butterfly Weed which caterpillars will feast on. Lifecycle Adult Monarchs usually show up in May, scouting the area for nectar sources and for their host plant. Monarchs have 4 generations. The one that shows up in May were born in the prior year, at the end of the season, in August or even September, and have made the great migration back home, from Mexico. ● Eggs take 3-5 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next instar stage for a total of 5 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● At the conclusion of the 5th instar stage, the caterpillar will move to a high location, hang upside down and form a “J” which is known as a pre-pupa stage. The caterpillar will shed its final skin and will encase itself inside a chrysalis where it will slowly develop into a butterfly ● The butterfly will complete its development 8-15 days later, again depending on temperature. ● When the butterfly emerges from its chrysalis it will look small, its wings accordioned up near its center. The butterfly will slowly pump its wings to dry the wings and to start blood flow until the wings are fully expanded. This process takes less than 30 minutes then the butterfly is ready to go find a nectar source and a mate and the cycle starts again. Swallowtails Whenever I spot a Swallowtail Butterfly in my garden, it is a special delight and while in previous years I have focused exclusively on attracting monarchs, I have decided to make a concerted effort to attract Swallowtails which will provide a great reason to swing by my local garden center again! Host Plants To attract Swallowtails to your garden, plant members of the parsley family: ● Parsley ● Dill ● Fennel ● Carrot ● Queens Anne’s Lace ● Golden Alexander ● Common Rue (or others in the Rue Family) Lifecycle Unlike the Monarch, there are only 2 generations of Swallowtails: those active between Mid-May and Mid-June and those active in early September and will overwinter until the next year. ● The eggs take 4 to 9 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next stage for a total of 4 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● Once the caterpillar enters the pupal stage, it will take 9 to 18 days to emerge, unless it is in the generation that overwinters ● The caterpillars that overwinter in their chrysalids can protect themselves from freezing by making glycerol which is like anti-freeze Finally, to attract any pollinator to your gardens, including butterflies, a diverse selection of nectar sources is a must: Common Nectar Sources : ● Milkweed ● Butterfly Weed ● Zinnia ● Coneflowers ● Pye Weed ● Lantana ● Aster ● Goldenrod ● Salvia ● Butterfly Bush ● Bee Balm ● Cosmos ● Phlox ● Blazing Star ● Lavendar ● Black Eyed Susan ● Anise Hyssop To help attract and support future generations of butterflies year over year, set your garden up to have continual blooms throughout the growing season. Older generation butterflies will need your help as the weather cools by having access to late blooming nectar sources as fall approaches. When in doubt, or if your garden is closing shop early, stick some discounted, end-of-season annuals in pots, the butterflies will thank you! Photo credits: Cheryl Schultz, Washington State University; WSU Newsletter (1), www.flickr.com (2), Maryland Department of Natural Resources (3), Alabama Butterfly Atlas; usf.edu (4), Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Extension (5)

< Back Planting Bulbs with your Growing Sprouts As the leaves fall and the temperatures begin to tumble, don’t forget to plant your favorite bulbs with a young gardener. Tulips are a perfect choice to plant in early November as long as you can dig in the ground. Daffodils’ ideal planting season is up until mid-October, but if the temperatures are warm and the ground workable, daffodils can be tried also. Your Growing Sprout will delight in the spring display. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener What makes a spring bulb and why would I plant them? Spring Bulbs (Hardy Bulbs) are a plant that stores its complete life cycle in an underground enclosed compartment which contains all of the food needed for the plant to grow and flower. They need cold winter months or dormancy to build up the energy to grow and blossom in the spring. Spring bulbs come back year after year and provide beautiful spring flowers. Have your young gardener pick a sunny spot for your tulip garden and then go to your local gardening center to find just the perfect colors. Your young gardener will enjoy choosing the colors based on their favorite or mix and match for an added boost of color. Collect the Following : Trowel or Bulb Planter Spring Bulbs Garden Spot Gloves (optional) Garden markers (optional) Let’s Get Planting! One way to have your young gardener help is to place bulbs in the pattern desired whether that be by height, color or design. This is a perfect time to allow your young gardener to be creative. After the bulbs are laid out you can start digging the holes needed for each bulb. Spring bulbs should be planted in the ground 2-3 times the height of the bulb. Once the holes are prepared, it is time to plant. But before you place the bulb in the hole, let your young gardener identify the pointy end of the bulb. When planting, the pointy end needs to be planted upward . Begin placing each bulb (pointy side up) into the holes dug and then fill in the holes and pack the soil down. Markers can be placed near the planting area to remind you and your young gardener what and where you planted the spring bulbs. Now comes the hard part - waiting until spring to see the beautiful flowers that were planted. But, oh, what a glorious prize. Photo Credits: Stockcake.com (1), PickPik.com (2), www.pikist.com (3)

< Back Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens, but as the Finns say, “You plan ahead beforehand”. Indeed, we are going to spend the next six months talking about a variety of native evergreens, welcome additions of green to our prolonged white winter landscapes. Of these various evergreens, balsam fir is a frequent forest highlight in central to northern Minnesota. It is native from Minnesota east to Maine and south into the Appalachians as far as West Virginia. It ranges from 45 to 70 feet in height, occasionally sprinting up to 90 feet. It has a distinctive narrow conic crown of long dark green needle-like leaves. Balsam fir will form 1 ½ to 3-inch seed cones which are long and dark purple, turning brown before dispersing its seeds in September. It is a member of the pine family (Pinaceae) and is the traditional Christmas tree. So, beware if your neighbor is spotted on your property in early December with an ax. If you wish to add some winter green to your landscape with balsam fir, make sure your climate is suitable. Balsam fir prefer cooler weather, ideally with a mean annual temperature of 40 degrees F. Practically speaking this means central to Northern Minnesota. Further south, make sure to protect it from the summer heat. Planting in moist well-drained soil on the north or east side of buildings would be a good idea. Balsam fir in the White Mountains] This penchant for shady, cooler areas can be helpful planting in otherwise difficult north or east courtyards, creating a cool, afternoon shaded site in the warmer months. Balsam fir’s ornamental aspects are substantive. The needles are pleasantly aromatic, soft, dark green, having a silver underside. The tree does tolerate partial shade well. If you are not looking for a 60-foot tree in your patio, Abies balsamea dwarf cultivars are available. They can serve as elegant evergreens for a cool, afternoon shade site, usually ranging in size from 3 to 6 feet. They can be used as a low screen or backdrop in difficult north or east facing courtyards. Check with your nursery for “Weeping Larry”, “Piccolo” or “Nana” cultivars of balsam fir. Needle like leaves of Abies balsamea Photo credits: Jeff Bisbe, treesandshrubsonline.org (1), www.treesandshrubsonline.org (2)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Rosemary Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries. It has been associated with enhanced brain function, it has health benefits, it has a lovely scent and it adds flavor to your recipes. Read this article to learn more about this ancient herb and, if you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, why you should consider doing so next season. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Rosemary is truly a very special herb and one of my very favorites. Today, we may love rosemary for its scent, use in the kitchen and decorative qualities but this is an herb that has been appreciated by humans for centuries. The use of rosemary has a long and distinguished history. The first known reference to rosemary dates back to Egyptian cuneiforms over 7,000 years ago. But most of the early references to this herb are from the Greeks and Romans, beginning around 500 B.C. Rosemary originated in the Mediterranean, especially around the coastal areas. Its name comes from ‘ros’ and ‘marinus’, which translates to ‘dew of the sea’. Originally classified as ‘rosmarinus officinalis’, in 2017 it was reclassified as ‘salvia rosmarinus’. Rosemary has long been associated with aiding in brain function. Greek scholars would braid it into their hair to help them with their studies. Today it is known to be rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known to help with digestion and hair growth and renewal. When used in cooking, it is used sparingly, as it has a very strong flavor and a little goes a long way. Rosemary is a perennial shrub in zones 7 to 10. Here in Minnesota, it is grown as an annual, as it cannot survive our harsh winters. My favorite way to grow rosemary is in combination containers. The ‘prostrata’ varieties have a trailing habit, and tuck right up to the edge and spill over, creating a fabulous lacy carpet. Since rosemary is slow growing, it will not overwhelm other plants. I purchase starters as early in the season as possible, which allows it to get bigger before I transplant it. This summer, I used several as a trailer in a container with a boxwood. A week before the temperatures were forecast to drop into the 40s, I repotted the rosemary into a smaller container all by itself to settle in before bringing it inside for the winter. It is a good candidate for overwintering, as you can leave it out much longer than other plants, and put it out again in early spring. The plant can survive a frost, so typically I bring it in around November, and put it out again in April. Once indoors for the winter, place it in a sunny spot, away from drafts. It likes humidity, but hates wet feet. Misting it often is recommended. Some winters I do not try to overwinter rosemary in containers. Instead, I just make a fresh rosemary bouquet. This works well for the upright versions. Cut the stems at the base of the plant and place in a container of water. Make sure you strip the leaves at the bottom, as they will rot in water (these can be used in your cooking). The rosemary bouquet eventually dwindles as you use it, however, it usually takes me through the holiday season before it is gone. Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries for good reason. If you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, consider doing so next season. Photo Credit: kampung-kuliner.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Shari Mayer (2)

< Back You’ve Cleared the Buckthorn - Now What?? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Buckthorn! It’s not native to Minnesota but it has made itself quite comfortable here, hasn’t it? Read on, as Dakota County Master Gardener Sarah Heidtke discusses some actions to take for buckthorn management after you’ve cleared this invasive plant species out of your property. You’ve put in the work to clear your property of buckthorn. Congratulations! According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, buckthorn management is going to be a multi-year commitment. Why? Well, viable seeds in the soil can germinated for two years, and additional seeds can come in thanks to birds and other wildlife. Buckthorn freshly cleared The next steps to keep re-infestation of this invasive plant under control fall under three categories: Add more desirable new plants to minimize bare ground where invasive plants can take hold. Manually remove new buckthorn sprouts that come up - especially in the spring when they are easier to pull and again in the fall. Prioritize any berry-producing plants and if you can, work with your neighbors so that they do the same. Use herbicides for larger plants, following all labels and instructions. Buckthorn replacement species Determining what to plant next depends on your site conditions. University of Minnesota’s May 2024 “A guide to forest understory revegetation to help manage buckthorn and other invasive plants,” offers some great advice and a list of seed mix retailers. The goal is to out-compete new buckthorn sprouts, so seeding soon after large buckthorn removal is best. If the tree canopy has at least 10% of visible sky looking up from the ground, cool season grasses and wildflower seeds can germinate and grow quickly, making it harder for new buckthorn seeds to sprout. More shade-tolerant wildflowers can help suppress buckthorn in darker wooded areas, but you’ll need to be diligent about pulling buckthorn sprouts while the native plants get established. Native shrubs such as high-bush cranberry, nannyberry, chokecherry, pagoda dogwood, gray dogwood, elderberry, American hazelnut and black chokeberry are all identified by the University of Minnesota as healthy replacements for buckthorn. Buckthorn sky canopy Keep removing new buckthorn plants! Once all buckthorn has been cleared from your land, plan on walking your property to find and pull new buckthorn plants. The best time to find buckthorn is fall and early spring, when most plants other than buckthorn will be without leaves (MN DNR). Prioritize removing all of the berry-producing vegetation, in order to limit the ability of the buckthorn to expand. If the plant is too big to pull, the MN DNR suggests cutting the plant a few inches above the soil, and then preventing photosynthesis by either covering the stump with a can or dark bag or leaving a higher stump and continually removing any new green sprouts. See more instructions here . Buckthorn sprouts There are times when some property owners consider chemical herbicides as the best option for larger plants. Mid to late fall is ideal for applying herbicide, as the plant's sap flows toward the roots, allowing for maximum absorption. Since buckthorn keeps its leaves longer than most plants, you can minimize harm to other species that are dormant for winter (UMN Extension). Always follow product labels for safety and application directions. The label is the law. For more information on best practices for herbicide application, please refer to UMN Extension here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-good-time-remove-buckthorn . If you are treating near water, the MN DNR requests that you first contact the aquatic pesticide enforcement specialist for advice on less harmful herbicides for aquatic species. Buckthorn management is both a continual task and a community effort. Several cities in Dakota County also offer resources: Eagan https://cityofeagan.com/buckthorn Apple Valley https://www.applevalleymn.gov/679/Buckthorn Burnsville https://burnsvillemn.gov/818/Buckthorn Mendota Heights https://mendotaheightsmn.gov/537/Buckthorn-Removal Farmington https://cityoffarmington.hosted.civiclive.com/government/departments/natural_resources/weeds___plants/buckthorn Additional online references: https://mitppc.umn.edu/sites/mitppc.umn.edu/files/2024-06/Guide-to-forest-understory-revegetation-buckthorn-2024_3.pdf Buckthorn management does take commitment but know that you are building a healthier environment and growing some lovely plants in its place. Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,4), University of Minnesota (3), Michael Schuster, PhD University of Minnesota (4)