< Back Stumped by a Stumpery? Deborah Snow, Master Gardener Have you thought about planting a Stumpery in your yard? A what? A Stumpery is basically a stylized shade garden. The garden uses stumps and logs as habitat for shade-loving plants; mainly, ferns, mosses and lichen. Colorful mushrooms may eventually grow and add color and character to the wood. When I tell people how excited I am about creating my own Stumpery, almost everyone asks, “What is that?!” As any gardener, I’m learning along the way. I tell them it’s basically a stylized shade garden. The garden uses stumps and logs as habitat for shade-loving plants; mainly, ferns, mosses and lichen. Colorful mushrooms may eventually grow and add color and character to the wood. So, how did this garden style get started? It came from a Victorian tradition of growing ferns among tree stumps. One of the first documented Stumperies was at Biddulph Grange in England. It was designed in 1856 by Edward William Cook, an artist and garden designer. Estate owner, James Bateman, was a wealthy horticulturalist who exemplified the Victorian passion for collecting plants from around the world. They created the Stumpery by stacking tree stumps into 10 foot high walls and filling the crevices with ferns and other plants. Due to the popularity of ferns during the Victorian era, the Stumpery was adopted as the garden space to display their collection. The Stumpery was emulated throughout England. One of the most famous Stumperies was created by Prince Charles of Wales, now King Charles, and is still a featured part of the gardens at Highgrove, his home in Gloucestershire. I did see a Stumpery in England but you don’t need to go that far. We recently toured a Stumpery at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis. I highly recommend a visit there if you’ve never been. What inspiration does a Victorian tradition from England have for American gardeners? A Stumpery is a workable concept for a modern garden. There is beauty in the architecture it provides. Its unique design lends itself to beneficial growing environments for shade-loving plants. Ferns are an obvious choice but any woodland plant could be included. It’s always evolving and that’s exciting to me! As the stumps and logs gradually decompose, the peeling bark provides habitat for insects that will feed the birds and frogs or pollinate the plants in the garden. Then come the mushrooms! I can’t wait for that. Next, I’ll talk about how to create your own Stumpery. It can be large or small. It can consist of several unearthed trees showing the roots or simply make use of logs or driftwood. You will use the arrangement of logs and stumps as an organizing feature. The wood will be equally important as the plants. Shade or part shade will work best and, if possible, plant on a slope for the best viewing. Along the edge of some woods would be perfect. My Stumpery is still very young. I put it together in the fall of 2021 and have added more wood and plants this last season. I’m sure it will get bigger as I learn more and find interesting pieces of wood. I’m always on the hunt. Friends have even contributed stumps. I will share the steps I used to get started. First, I chose and cleared the site. Next, I gathered some wood. I laid cardboard as the base to smother any weeds. I used logs as an outline and piled a mix of garden soil and compost inside. I created a mound since I didn’t have a slope. I partially buried some interesting stumps in and around the mound and covered it with wood chips for mulch. Now I was ready to plant. I’m such a plant collector and all that summer, before I started to build, I collected mostly ferns. I looked for varieties I didn’t already have wherever I went. Any time I saw something differed or unique I bought it. Also, I transplanted some ferns from my other gardens. So now I had a nice selection of plants to tuck in and around the wood. I planted ostrich ferns as a backdrop and started some mosses inside some hollowed out pieces of wood. I have continued putting in plants and stumps all this next season. And of course, me being me, I had to put a fairy garden piece in as well! I’m sure that will grow in the future. The garden looks mostly brown still but should be showing more green in the spring – I hope. I have struggled to keep it wet enough to get the mosses going. They don’t like this hot dry weather pattern we are stuck in. I’m hoping for a rainy spring and I’ll place more mosses. I’m researching best practices for moss and hope to do better next year. So, now you know what I know and I hope you are inspired to get out and build one of your own or at least find a stumpery to visit. There are lots of beautiful photos online to give you a better sense of what a mature Stumpery will look like. Good luck and happy gardening. Photo credits: Deborah Snow (all)

< Back Grow Beautiful, Healthy Roses in Minnesota Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The rose is one of the most cultivated and popular flowers in the world. Myths and poems are attached to roses which have been popular for centuries. They are prized for their colors, beautiful scents, and size of blooms, from miniature to large. But as any rose grower knows, roses also have a history of being hard to care for and, of course, all forms have thorns. But developments in rose breeding have minimized many of problems associated with growing roses and maximized their attractive qualities. This article will explain how to grow beautiful roses successfully in Minnesota. Roses have had a reputation as high maintenance and difficult to grow in Minnesota. Historically, this has been true of the beautiful “hybrid tea” varieties. Remember the “Minnesota tip?” Hybrid garden roses are still grown in Minnesota and are more susceptible to Minnesota winters. However, over the years, rose breeders have come up with hardy roses for northern climates. “Hardy” roses grow in USDA Zones 3 or 4, need no covering through the winter, are disease resistant, require minimal pest and disease control and bloom profusely. Hardy shrub roses have been developed to meet these criteria. The shrub rose of today is a sturdy, minimal care plant. Shrub roses have excellent disease resistance and are low maintenance with reblooming flowers all summer. But to receive the most from a rose, plant it in full sun (6-8 hours) with moist, well-drained soil. Roses should be planted after the last spring frost or in the fall, six weeks before frost. Prepare a hole wide enough for the roots. Roses don’t like to be crowded so plant 3 feet apart to allow for growth. A general fertilizer or specialty rose fertilizer can be used. Fertilize in the spring to encourage new growth. Stop fertilizing in late July so the rose will begin to harden off. This prepares the plant for the winter cold. Some roses can be grown in containers. Create a hole in the pot twice as wide as the roots, spread the roots and fill pot with soil. Make sure to water thoroughly. Some roses tolerate some shade, but no rose will bloom in full shade. Shade will also make the rose more susceptible to pests and disease such as black spot, powdery mildew, and downy mildew. There are remedies for these problems, and some varieties are genetically resistant to mildew. Common pests that affect roses are Japanese Beetles, aphids, and spider mites. A garden center will have products to remedy these pests but read the product label for use. Also, read the label on the rose bush when purchasing, for information about their resistance to the above diseases and where the rose plant will grow the best. Research the American Rose Society’s lists for which roses grow in your location. Unfortunately, deer are also rose fans. They like to munch on rose bushes despite the thorns. A fenced barrier may be the only effective deterrent. Gardeners love fragrant roses. Fragrant rose petals are often used to make perfumes. Unfortunately, with a focus on disease resistance, hardiness, ease of planting and other growing characteristics, breeding roses for fragrance took a back seat. Not anymore! Easy Elegance “Yellow Brick” has a beautiful aroma and Knock Out rose has a faint floral smell. Plant these varieties along a deck or walkway to enjoy the fragrance. These are some of the breeds of roses that are successfully grown in the north: Knock-Out-Rose - This rose comes in a variety of colors, reblooms all summer and doesn’t require dead heading. This said, your rose garden will look tidy if some dead heading is done. This rose is a medium size shrub so will fit in a border or around annuals and other perennials. Knock-Out-Rose Drift Rose - This is a recent variety of shrub rose. Bushes have tiny flowers and are a good ground cover. Easy to incorporate in a border or on a hill. Easy Elegance Rose - This rose is known for its fragrance and easy-care qualities. They are bred to be disease resistance and tolerate windy conditions. Given a sunny spot in a garden this rose will thrive and reward the gardener with a wonderful fragrance. Cuthbert Grant Shrub Rose Several years ago, the University of Minnesota introduced the Northern Accents series which includes ‘Ole,’ ‘Sven’ and ‘Lena.’ These are “ever-blooming” shrub roses that tolerate Minnesota winters well. The University Minnesota Extension continues to be part of the ongoing “American Rose Trials for Sustainability.” This project’s goal was to identify roses that had a scent while grown under minimal care conditions and to produce roses that would survive without pesticides, fertilizer, and winter with only mulch and snow covers. Roses that would not need to be tipped, buried or use a Styrofoam cap. Information gained in these trials informs the work of rose breeders. A rose is an attractive companion to borders of evergreens, perennial beds of baby’s breath and annuals like verbena. Plant one of the above varieties to enjoy all the favorable qualities of a rose bush. For inspiration in choosing roses for your garden or just to enjoy their beauty, visit the two rose gardens at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. These gardens display 400 varieties of hybrid garden roses and hardy shrub roses. Credits: University of Minnesota Extension, extension.umn.edu University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign, extension.illinois.edu Minnesota State Horticultural Society; https://northerngardener.org/great-plants-for-northern-gardens-day-11-hardy-roses/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Gail Maifeld (2,3)

< Back Purple Clematis (Clematis occidentalis): Beauty Reaching Upwards Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener If you are a fan of clematis, you know that there are dozens of varieties to choose from. In this article, Jim Lakin states the case for the “good old native purple clematis.” It’s on of Jim’s favorites. Read his article to understand why. I must admit, I’m a big fan of clematis. I have over a dozen varieties running up wire fences around the back garden, blooming at different times of spring and summer, effortlessly providing an ongoing show of color and form. Yet, of all the flashy varietals, good old native purple clematis remains a favorite. It’s tough but fairly easy to grow. Once established, it is vigorous but long lived, a dependable but showy workhorse. Purple clematis, sometimes known as “Purple Virgin’s Bower” is native to most of the upper East Coast and Midwest, extending up into Eastern Canada, so it is hardy all through Minnesota. In the wild it is found in "calcareous cliffs, rock ledges, talus slopes, gravelly embankments, rocky woods, and clearings" (Flora of North America, Volume 3. 1997). As you might imagine, the vine is not too picky about soils and will do well in a variety of environments, although you should make sure it has decent drainage. Clematis will need support to climb on as the plant will send out several shoots that can grow as tall as 12 feet although usually 4 to 6 feet. As a woodland plant it is mostly found in partial sun environments but usually tolerates full sun. This perennial woody vine blooms in May and June although it can appear a bit earlier in southern Minnesota. It produces gorgeous blue-violet to pinkish purple flowers 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. Several pollinators have been recorded visiting purple clematis, most frequently bumble bees. In late summer into fall, fruiting bodies are formed from the flowers. The styles elongate to form “tails” about 2 inches long, upon which green to rusty brown seeds form which are spread by the wind. There are, at present over 200 cultivars of clematis, which are wondrous in their variety and well worth growing, if you have the room. However, a great place to start is with the simple elegance of the native species, Clematis occidentalis. Photo credits: Minnesota Wildflowers, K. Chayka (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, P.M. Dziuk (2)

< Back Eating Bitter Melon Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern What’s the big deal with bitter melon? I mean, it’s bitter even when it’s mature! What would compel someone to eat it? Believe it or not, this bumpy and sometimes spiky little vegetable has been eaten for centuries by various cultures around the world who have learned to embrace and even enjoy that bitterness. At the same time, they have also reaped its nutritional benefits. Read on to learn more about the benefits of bitter melon and how to enjoy eating it! Bitter melon has long been used in traditional medicine to treat various kinds of ailments, most notably diabetes. In developing countries in Asia, Africa, Central and South America it has also been used to treat dysmenorrhea, eczema, gout, leprosy, psoriasis, gout, and even scabies. In developed nations, recent animal and clinical studies of bitter melon extract have shown that it has potential therapeutic benefit in diabetes and obesity related metabolic dysfunction.1 Does the above information encourage you to give it a try the next time you see it at your local farmers’ market? Maybe the following recipe will. I consulted with my favorite Filipino friends, Teddie and Leila Maasin, to find a recipe that could be enjoyed by someone trying bitter melon for the first time and they shared this one (with my edits ): Vegetable Fritters 4 cups of prepared vegetables to include the following: 1 thinly sliced Chinese bitter melon 1 shredded medium sweet potato (I used a Murasaki sweet potato ) 1 large, shredded carrot 1 chopped medium onion 1 to 2 cups chopped spinach or celery leaves ( or whatever leafy greens you have ) 2 beaten eggs 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch Black pepper to taste Vegetable ( or peanut ) oil for deep frying To prepare bitter melon, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and spongy pith, and thinly slice in cross sections. Soak slices for 1 hour in salted water to remove some of the bitterness, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible and place slices in a large mixing bowl. Add and mix in the remaining vegetables, then stir in beaten eggs until well combined with the vegetables. Now would be a good time to start heating your vegetable oil in a deep saucepan or frying pan. (Don’t forget to have a pan cover handy!) In a smaller mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and black pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the larger mixing bowl with the vegetables and mix until you have a vegetable-laden batter. Pre-form patties from this batter, adding flour or water to get them to hold together. Fry patties in hot oil until medium brown, then remove them to a platter lined with paper towels to wick up excess oil. I like to serve these vegetable fritters with sweet chili sauces like these: Obviously, the recipe featured above is not the most healthful of bitter melon recipes due to the deep-frying cooking method. If you’d like to try another, just look for any of the numerous stir-fry recipes available on the Internet. As a bonus, the Journal of Lipids reference article linked below contains a “typical recipe of a bitter melon dish popular in Bangladesh”, called Bitter Melon Fry with Potato. Check it out! 1 J Lipids. 2015; 2015: 496169 Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1,2,3

< Back How to Choose Just the Right Tree Karna Berg, Master Gardener Trees can add so much character to the landscape of your yard. But it’s important to choose a tree that meets your goals. After all, a tree you plant now may last a lifetime. When deciding to add a tree to your landscape there are many things to consider. This article will help you get started on what you need to research. Once you have decided you’d like a new tree in your yard, the hard part comes. There are so many possibilities to choose from, how does one choose? Here are some basics to consider along with a couple sources to give you more information. Answer these questions before heading to the nursey. First, ask yourself, why do I want a tree? Do you want it for shade, beauty, wildlife, privacy, fall color, fruit or something else? That will help you to immediately narrow your search. Then, consider the character of your home and yard. Do you have a large or small yard? Are there power lines overhead? Do you have sun? How about moisture, is your yard wet or dry? You probably don’t want a tree that will overpower your house, hit power lines, die from lack of sun, or need constant watering. Now, consider the amount of time you want to spend caring for this tree. Do you want to be constantly trimming it, picking fruit, cleaning up the mess it makes, or wrapping it for winter? Or do you want a low care tree? River Birch None of these answers will come just from looking at the tag at the nursery. You must do some thinking and a little research on your own. For example, it is not wise to rely on the tag to tell you how tall and wide the tree will get. It seems that most plants grow larger than what the tag tells you. Here are a few suggestions. If you want a tree for shade, you are looking for a deciduous tree that will lose its leaves in the winter. And you probably want some height. But make sure it is not so wide it hits your house or shades your vegetable garden. There are now some beautiful deciduous trees that get no wider than about 5 feet. If you want beauty, you are looking for an ornamental tree. There are many to pick from. Read about the blooms or other color the tree will provide. Be aware that generally, these trees will do best in full sun. They vary widely in height so pick the size to fit your spot. And be sure to consider the zone listed on the tag. While some gardeners have had luck with zone 5 trees and plants, it is always chancy. A beautiful Japanese maple I had in my yard suddenly died during a winter of extreme temperature changes. And that seems to be the way our winters are going. Crabapple Red Splendor If you want privacy, go for an evergreen tree that will not shed its needles in the winter. A good choice would be a type of arborvitae. While we could not cover all the issues in selecting a tree, the University of Minnesota Extension has some great resources on choosing the right tree. Click this link to find recommended trees for Minnesota, trees for pollinators, trees for shady area and more. And check out this Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site for advice on choosing the “right” tree. Choose well and you will enjoy many years with the new tree in your yard. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Top 3 Flowering and Edible Weeds Most of us view weeds as mere pests in the garden to be eradicated from our gardens. But some weeds have the redeeming virtue of being edible. In this article, Master Gardener Kristina Valle describes how three common weeds can be consumed and appreciated. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener “A weed is but an unloved flower,” – Ella Wheeler Wilcox. This year we welcomed a spring full of heavy rains that lasted days and quickly melted our towering snow mounds. This rain also gave many perennials and bulbs a much needed jump start to produce new growth on stems that may have been on the rabbits’ menu for most of the winter. While I did lose a few plants this winter, there were many that benefitted from a severe haircut and the early, and extra rain aided in providing the plants with the necessary support to recover and grow back quickly. Unfortunately, rain will help anything that is able to grow, including weeds. While most weeds are unwelcomed and take away some of the gardener’s enjoyment, eradicating them from our yard and gardens is a necessary part of the job, as we all know. But did you know that there are many weeds that can have a positive place in your life or rather, on your plate? This article will discuss the top 3 flowering and edible weeds that may already exist in your garden and that may alter your perception of their presence in your landscape. #1 – The Dandelion It’s early spring and POP! Bright yellow flowers appear and carpet many open spaces along roads and are sprinkled throughout our yard and gardens. As Minnesotan’s we appreciate the first sign of color after a cold and dull winter, but these flowering weeds are met with disdain as we know that our summer work has just begun. Instead of looking at these weeds negatively, we should really be thinking of all of their uses instead. All three parts of a dandelion are edible. The Flower The flower head can be incorporated into cookies, quiche, muffins and many other baked goods, adding a honey like flavor to any recipe. Another alternative is frying the petals as a fritter like you would for squash blossoms. The Leaves The leaves are simply greens and are versatile enough to be used in a sauté with pasta or even eggs. The Roots Looking for a coffee or tea alternative? Consider dandelion roots! Dandelion Root Tea is commonly available in most grocery stores, but you’ll need to put in a little more effort if you want to make some Dandelion Root Coffee. First, you’ll need to dry the roots in a food dehydrator, and then roast them in the oven until they are thoroughly dry. Afterwards, place the roots in water and bring to a boil, strain it, drink and enjoy! #2 – The Common Blue Violet While the dandelion is often one of the easiest weeds to identify, greater care must be taken for other edible weeds. The violet has heart shaped leaves and 5 petals. Unlike the dandelion, only the petals and leaves of the violet are edible so it is important to be sure you have a violet before you harvest. If you’ve been to a restaurant that garnishes dishes, or even cocktails with flowers, you may have eaten a violet. The visual appeal livens up whatever you’re serving and invites a touch of the season into whatever occasion you’re celebrating. If you’re feeling a little extra, consider freezing the petals in individual ice cubes to add a surprise to any cold drink during your next get together. #3 – The Clover Whenever I think of clover, I’m reminded of a scene in the Disney Movie “Bambi” where Thumper is feasting on and stuffing his cheeks full of delicious clover. Sure, bunnies love it, but we can enjoy it too! Similar to a dandelion, you can prepare the flower head as a fritter. The clover can also be added to pasta, salads and teas and can be easily identified by its pink-purple flower. It is best to boil the plant before eating it, which can be accomplished when cooking a pasta or making a tea, as the plant (excluding the flower) can be a little hard on the digestive system. Finally, have you considered creating a Bee Lawn? Need a cover crop? Your clover will be a benefit not only to your pollinators but to you as well! It is my hope that this article has at a minimum, piqued your curiosity about the volunteers that grace our gardens each year. If you are interested in foraging outside of your garden space for these weeds, onto public lands, do not harvest unless you can be sure that no pesticides have been used on the weeds. Always exercise caution when foraging and remember to limit your haul to only 10% so that the local wildlife is not negatively impacted by the removal of some beneficial plants. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa): Best Friend to Many Pollinators Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Watching Monarch Butterflies flit among the plants in our gardens is among the simple joys of summer in Minnesota. But, as we know, the population of this beautiful butterfly is diminishing. One of the likely causes is loss of habitat – not enough available plants that the larvae and butterfly need for fuel. As this article explains, the Butterfly Milkweed is a native plant that Monarchs favor. For that reason and more, you may want to add this plant to your garden next year. If you are like me, one of the great sights of summer is a flock of Monarch Butterflies dancing about the garden. Their numbers have been diminishing over the past few years. Many entomologists feel that this is due to loss of habitat, as we pave over and grass over many vital native ecosystems that traditionally have supported them on their long migration from Central Mexico. One solution, with a good bit of data to support it, is to create a string of mini-environments of native plants as “refueling stations” for the Monarchs on their journey. One favored source of “fuel” (nectar) is the Butterfly Milkweed. Asclepias tuberosa is a favorite of a number of pollinators. It, along with the other milkweeds, forms an important link in the native ecology of the Midwest, being found from the Eastern Seaboard through to the Rockies. In addition to its vital ecological role, Butterfly Milkweed is a gorgeous yet hardy, low-maintenance plant that will be an attractive addition to your garden. Butterfly Milkweed blooms with a bright orange to reddish yellow flower from late spring to late summer. It has narrow green leaves which serve as an important source of food for Monarch butterfly larvae. It is hardy up through Zone 3, so you North Shore folks are in luck! The plant grows to two to three feet, so it is best placed to the back of your beds. It can be started from either seeds of cuttings. We have a patch in our front which has gradually spread from spontaneous seeding. If you are trying to germinate from seed, remember to put the seeds in a damp cool environment, like a moistened paper towel in a baggie in the fridge, for 4 to 6 weeks before planting. Alternately you can sow the seeds outdoors in the late fall, covering with about ¼ inch of soil. You may not see blooming the first year, however. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1) , usda.gov (2)

< Back Growing Dahlias in Minnesota Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As Minnesota settles into summer, blooms are starting to burst out everywhere in our gardens. One all-star beauty for the garden is the magnificent dahlia. Not only are dahlias beautiful in the garden or inside in a vase, but they are economical. Dahlias are a bulb plant and, although they can’t survive a Minnesota winter, the bult can be dug up in the fall, overwintered and planted again next spring. Read this article to learn more about how to choose the right dahlia for you and how to care for and overwinter the plant you have chosen. As Minnesota settles into summer, blooms are starting to burst out everywhere in our gardens. One all-star beauty for the garden is the magnificent dahlia. Enjoy a few dahlias in your outside garden. Or, better still, include them in a cutting garden which allows you to bring vibrant color and fragrance indoors to further celebrate the fruits of your labor. The dahlia bestows a beautiful and unique specimen to your dining table bouquet at the end of summer. orange dahlia in vase; Credit: Mary Gadek Read along here to find out how to choose, plant, nourish and store dahlias in Minnesota gardens. Where to start Minnesota garden centers offer many choices for dahlia bulbs. Dahlias originate from Mexico and Guatemala, which makes them “tender” bulbs, (meaning they cannot survive freezing winter weather). But dahlias are still an economical buy. As “bulbs,” they can be overwintered and grown again in subsequent years. There are so many different sizes and colors of dahlias that it can be hard to choose which ones are best for your garden. If you are undecided about which dahlia bulbs to choose, visit the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Dahlia Trial Garden to experience the many colors and varieties of dahlias. Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Dahlia trial garden; Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Planting Late May to early June meets the ideal conditions for planting dahlia bulbs; that is - when the soil has reached 60’F and the threat of frost has passed. Find a spot in your garden that has at least 6 hours of sunlight, with morning sun and afternoon shade, in well-drained soil. After you have chosen and planted your dahlia bulbs, you need to know how to care for them. The Minnesota Dahlia Society provides an excellent resource for planting and care of dahlia bulbs: Four care steps to highlight are: Watering: Dahlias need one inch of water every week. Topping: To achieve a bushier plant, remove the tip of the plant after three sets of leaves have grown. Disbudding: The maximum potential of dahlia buds is obtained by removing the side buds to direct growth energy to the top bud of the plant. Staking: For taller dahlia varieties that grow up to 3 feet, add a plant support, such as a garden stake or chicken wire fencing, at the time of planting. Secure the plant to the stake once it is about 1 foot tall, and then again as the plant gets taller, to help prevent wind and storm damage. purple dahlia staked; Credit: Mary Gadek Winter Storage Dahlias cannot survive our Minnesota winter, unfortunately. But the good news is that you can dig up dahlia bulbs, store them over the winter and plant them again the next spring. After 7-14 days of a fall killing frost, dig up the frost sensitive bulbs. Store in a 40-50-degree part of your house in a medium, like peat moss or an unsealed plastic bag, to prevent drying out the bulbs. dahlia bulb in storage; Credit Mary Gadek Next May, take out your stored bulbs an enjoy your magnificent Minnesota dahlias all over again! Sources https://arb.umn.edu/specialty-gardens/dahlia-trial https://www.minnesotadahliasociety.org/ https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes (tender bulbs)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Jo Kapke, Master Gardener Cover crops are generally something home gardeners think of as being used only in large-scale growing operations—or don’t think of at all! However, the benefits of cover crop usage should entice home gardeners to experiment with them. Oat - Radish Cover crops are beneficial in many ways. They start by serving as a green mulch in your garden - they aid in weed suppression and erosion prevention. In large-scale operations cover crops are often used in walkways or as forage for animals. Some varieties of cover crops attract pollinators to the garden when they flower. Finally, and maybe most importantly, cover crops help with the health of your soil. Legume cover crops such as peas, vetch or clover fix nitrogen in the soil. The living roots of cover crops help maintain soil moisture, hold onto nutrients and support soil microorganisms. When the cover crop is eventually worked into the soil as a green manure, it further supports soil health by adding nutrients as the plant material decomposes. Red clover at the USDA NRCS Plant Material Center. The most daunting part of experimenting with cover crops is choosing the type of crop to use. The type of cover crop you plant depends on when you can plant it and what you are trying to achieve with the crop - nitrogen fixation, weed suppression, etc. Cover crops can be planted in spring (before warm-weather crops are planted), between plantings and after harvest. A winter-kill cover crop planted in the fall is recommended if you are trying cover crops in your home garden for the first time. Examples of cover crops that will die over winter are: buckwheat, oats, peas, berseem clover and tillage radish. General cover crop tips Cover crop seeds can be found at garden centers or online seed retailers. Plant cover crop seed densely; smaller areas can be planted by hand. Follow good crop rotation practices with cover crops. For example, don’t plant tillage radish in an area where other brassicas were harvested or will be planted the following spring. Mow or cut down flowering cover crops to prevent them from self-seeding. Dead plant material can be turned over in the spring or fall. If plant material doesn’t die over winter, wait 2-3 weeks after turning over the green material before planting new seeds or transplants. The Midwest Cover Crops Council has a fabulous tool designed for large-scale growers that can also be used by home gardeners. It includes detailed information on many varieties of cover crops. Cover Crop Decision Tool For more information about cover crops in Minnesota, visit: https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoke Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo Credit: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back All About Upcycling By now, many of us have heard the phrase, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Read on for ways to set up our youngest gardeners with good habits to “Reuse” or “Upcycle” what they already have. No purchase required! Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener What is “upcycling?” We can be kind to both nature and our pocketbooks by using fewer resources to make products ( reduce ) and reprocessing materials like metals, paper and plastic when we are done using products ( recycle ). What if we use things we already have and turn them into something else useful without having to buy more materials or use energy to recycle? Upcycling is the “ reuse ” part of “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Lots of upcycling can happen right in our gardens! Here are some ways that you can upcycle with the children in your lives. You can have fun and teach them how to improve their environment. Soil: Composting is really upcycling. We take yard and kitchen waste, let it break down naturally, and reuse all of that nutrition right in our gardens to build up healthy soil! You can even upcycle a pail from the sandbox or the big plastic tub of animal crackers to carry scraps like banana peels, egg shells and apple cores to your compost pile or bin. Plants : Make more plants from what you have - sow a seed from your sunflower, divide perennials or propagate cuttings. Tools : A plastic milk jug with a few holes punched in the cap makes a great right-sized watering can. (I found that the pick from a nutcracker set worked well for this.) Take some crayons, markers or paints and decorate it any way you like! Another one of my favorite ways to upcycle is to use an odd plate as a saucer under plants: You can also make and decorate plant labels with popsicle sticks, straws, bottle tops or bottoms. Old forks and spoons are great for weeding and digging. An old sled or wagon is great for carrying branches, leaves, or new plants. Containers : Almost anything can be a container. Use a metal can as a vase for the flowers you picked; or to hold your tools. Poke a few holes in the bottom (with adult help) for drainage and plant some flower or vegetable seeds. Outgrow your rain boots? You can grow plants in them! Yogurt containers are great for starting seeds. You can also use a plastic bottle to make a self-watering planter: Take a look around before you go out and buy new - you may have most or all of what you need right at home to grow and play in the garden! Check out some of these great books from Dakota County Library for these and more upcycling ideas to do with kids: Play & Learn Activities for Babies by Hannah Fathi Make Plastic Fantastic, Over 25 Recycling Craft Projects by Sophia Bebb and Helen Robinson, Illustrated by Diego Valsberg and Martin Lowenstein Let’s Get Gardening, 30 Easy Gardening Projects for Children by DK Publishing Little Homesteader, A summer Treasury of Recipes, Crafts and Wisdom by Angela Ferraro-Fanning and Illustrated by Anneliesdraws Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4,5)