< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)

< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Cool Season Vegetables for Spring Planting Marjory Blare, Master Gardener There are a number of “cool season” vegetables that can be planted outdoors in early spring. Get a head-start on your planting by starting your seeds indoors and planting them out when the temperature is right. Cool season vegetables can be planted out much earlier than, for example, tomatoes or peppers. You can seed indoors as much as six to eight weeks before the last frost date! Read this article for valuable information about seeding and planting “cool season” vegetables. Cool Season Vegetable Wisdom Here are some tips for growing “cool season vegetables:” The best way to get an early harvest is to prepare your garden in the fall. But if you didn’t, you can make up for it by first cleaning up any debris and then warming the soil with black plastic. If you want to get out in the garden ASAP, row covers and low tunnels can help to create a warmer growing environment for your plants. The last frost for Dakota county is around May 2nd. The northern half of Dakota county is zone 5a and the southern is 4b, make sure your seeds are rated for these zones. Specific crops vary, but the ideal temperatures for cool-season vegetables are in the 50°- 60° range for the first month of growth. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature. Use the right set-up to start seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#types-of-grow-lights-2651610 and visit the Dakota County Master Gardeners YouTube channel for videos on seed starting. Starting spring crops under lights can provide a few weeks of optimal growing temperatures. The transplants will be able to photosynthesize better because of a greater leaf area. Your plants will usually mature more before temperatures get too hot. Older plants are better able to withstand feeding damage from early spring insect pests like flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Cool season vegetables such as Arugula, Chinese cabbage, Bok choy, Peas, and Parsnips can be direct-seeded as soon as the soil is workable. “Omero” cabbage Chinese Cabbage, Bok Choy, Spinach and Swiss chard can be started under lights or direct-seeded. Gurney’s ‘Goliath’ Spinach Cauliflower is best planted mid-summer for a fall crop. Harden-off your seedlings before planting them out: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860 There are many edible, cold-tolerant flowers, and herbs, that can be started under lights. Take a look at the chart below for some great ideas. Vegetable Days to Harvest Start seeds Transplant Varieties Broccoli 85-100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Green Magic, ‘Super Dome’, ‘Jade Cross’ Brussels Sprouts < 100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Gustus’, ‘Hestia’, Cabbage 78 22-Feb - 4-April 4-April - 2-May ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Tendersweet’, ‘Omero’ Collards 60-80 8-Feb - 7-Mar 4- April ‘Tiger’, ‘Ole Timey Blue’, ‘Cascade Glaze’ Green Onions 8-10 weeks 25-Jan - 8-Feb 4-April ‘Feast’, ‘Deep Purple’, ‘White Spear’ Kale 25-65 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Rainbow Lacinato’, ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Black Magic’ ‘Toscano’ Kohlrabi 45-60 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Kolibri’, ‘Kossak’, ‘Purple Vienna’ Leeks 80-145 8-Feb - 22 Feb 18-April ‘Tivi’, ‘Electra’, ‘Titian’ ‘Varna’ Lettuce 30-70 29-Feb - 14-Mar 4-April - 11-April ‘Esmerelda’, ‘Little Gem’ ‘Red Salad Bowl’, *Find more information on dates at: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html For Master Gardener-recommended varieties of many vegetables and flowers, here is the link to 42 years of University of Minnesota Extension seeds trials: Tivi Leeks Now is the right time to plan for starting seeds indoors! Happy gardening! Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Marjory Blare, Photo 2 – Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension, Photos 3 – 5 – Marjory Blare

< Back Turkey Wild Rice Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. Luckily, Joy Johnson has provided a luscious recipe for wild rice soup made with Minnesota grown wild rice. If you had Joy’s foresight, you could add dried parsley to the soup and roasted sweet potatoes from your storage cabinet. Hungry yet? Read on to learn how to warm your kitchen (and tummy) with these recipes. It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. The soup can be made with any type of milk, including non-dairy. I love using Minnesota grown wild rice, it is so flavorful and has a wonderful texture. Make sure to thoroughly cook it following package directions. I don’t have anything growing in the garden right now, but I do have delicious turkey stock and cut up turkey meat, both light and dark, frozen from the holidays. I dried a lot of parsley prior to frost, so that can be added to the soup too. I have fresh sweet potatoes from the garden stored and I’ll roast those to serve along side this soup. A cold turkey croissant sandwich with fresh greens is one of my favorites. A very special treat for this meal, is my daughter’s home-made goat milk cheese. It has a sharp pungent flavor and is delicious atop a nutty cracker with a dollop of cranberry sauce. Ingredients ½ cup butter cubed 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery ribs, finely chopped 1 medium onion, sweet white, chopped ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 cups turkey broth (or chicken) 2 cups wild rice, cooked 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 2 cups half-and-half cream 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes 1.2 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Process In a Dutch oven, heat butter over medium-high heat. Add carrots, celery and onion; cook and stir until tender. Stir in flour until blended; cook until bubbly. Gradually stir in broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly; cook and stir 1-2 minutes or until thickened. Stir in remaining ingredients; return to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Roasting Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup honey 2 teaspoons ground Cinnamon Salt Process Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lay the sweet potatoes out in a single layer on a roasting tray. Drizzle the oil, honey, cinnamon, salt and pepper over the potatoes. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes in oven or until tender. Take sweet potatoes out of the oven and transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with more extra-virgin olive oil. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)

< Back Our State Flower: The Showy Lady’s Slipper Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Have you ever wondered about how state symbols came to be? Though united as one great nation, each of our 50 states is proud to highlight its unique representations, as varied as the individuals who inhabit their lands. Over the next several months, in this section you can learn more about some of our own Minnesota state symbols. The state flower is a fitting place to launch our exploration of our state symbols as it paved the way for the rest of the symbols chosen to proudly represent each state. And so we begin with our Minnesota state flower, the showy lady’s slipper. The showy lady’s slipper is also known by its Latin name, Cypripedium reginae, and more common name, pink and white lady’s slipper or simply moccasin flower. To the Ojibwe, it is known as Agobizowin . Its designation as Minnesota’s state flower was passed into law in 1967, but the journey began long ago in 1893, inspired by the World’s Fair in Chicago. The 1893 World’s Fair brought people from each state and at least 40 countries to Chicago to celebrate ideas, inventions, and achievements. The Congress of Representative Women was a weeklong convention at the fair that brought hundreds of women together from across the United States and the world to voice concerns of the day in front of crowds numbering in the thousands. To prepare for the event, one idea proposed was the “National Garland of Flowers,” whereby each U.S. state and territory would choose a flower that represented the state’s history, culture, and environment at the fair. The plants chosen for the fair were not yet considered official state flowers, but the event did inspire states to consider the idea of an official state flower. After consulting with a state botanist, women from across the state inclusive of every congressional district voted for a state flower from the following list: Lady’s Slipper Silky Aster Indian Pink Coneflower Wild Rose The lady’s slipper won by a huge margin and a petition was written to the state legislature to make it the state flower. While the picture of the correct plant made its way onto the Minnesota state flag in 1893, the incorrect Latin name was used in the official petition to the legislature, and the Senate designated Cypripedium calceolous, a flower that doesn’t exist in Minnesota, as our state symbol. Thankfully, the women of the St. Anthony Study Circle caught the error, and in 1902 a new resolution was written. The error didn’t go unnoticed, however. Newspapers of the day were quick to run headlines proclaiming our state flower a fake. But all’s well that ends well. The corrected resolution was passed by the Senate and House naming Cypripedium reginae , or showy lady’s slipper, as our state flower. Finally, in 1967 an actual law was passed that sealed the correct plant its place in our state’s history as our official state flower. The showy lady’s slipper is the tallest of over 40 orchid species native to Minnesota. The Latin species name reginae means “queen” and spotting this magnificent plant in the wild makes it clear how this moccasin flower got its name. It grows one to two feet tall and produces usually one or two flowers on its tall, sturdy stem. Out of a single rhizome, up to 20 stems may emerge. The flower consists of white petals and sepals and a magenta streaked inflated pouch, or slipper. Blooms last up to two weeks and typically occur in June to early July. Four to twelve large elliptical leaves that are five to ten inches long with parallel veins wrap around the stem. The leaves and stem are covered in bristle-like hair that may cause a rash if touched. This showy plant commonly lives 50 years, though some plants have been known to survive 100 years! It is a good thing it is so long-lived as it may take up to 16 years for its first flower to bloom. Each year a plant may produce as many as 500,000 seeds that are as fine as flour dust. They do not transplant well. It is better to just enjoy them by taking a photo if you find one. In fact, since 1925, the showy lady’s slipper has been protected by law making it illegal to pick or dig up the plants. For specific rules regarding written permission and permits from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and the Minnesota Department of Transportation, you can read Information on transplanting Lady's-slipper Orchids . Here are a few ways to enjoy the showy lady’s slipper in person: Go to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum . Call the Bloom Line ( 612-625-9791) in advance to hear if they are in bloom along the Arb’s Bog Walk. Walk along Lady’s Slipper Lane at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary in Minneapolis. Take a drive along Lady Slipper Scenic Byway in northern Minnesota through the Chippewa National Forest to see them blooming along the roadside. To learn more about our beautiful state flower, see the following links for additional information: https://www.leg.mn.gov/leg/symbols https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/flower2.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/ https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/a-national-garland-how-women-led-the-movement-to-declare-state-flowers/mAFroO4vbPlJakiE https://arbconservation.umn.edu/minnesotas-native-orchids#:~:text=There%20are%20roughly%20200%20species,one%20quarter%20of%20all%20species . https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/cypripedium_reginae.shtml https://arb.umn.edu/about/contact-us https://www.minneapolisparks.org/parks-destinations/parks-lakes/gardens__bird_sanctuaries/eloise_butler_wildflower_garden_and_bird_sanctuary/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/snapshots/plants/showyladysslipper.html https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/showy-ladys-slipper https://seasonwatch.umn.edu/showy-ladys-slipper Photo Credit: Office of the Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and US Forest Service (2,3), Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (5)

< Back Ornamental Grasses Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Interest in Ornamental Grasses has exploded. They can fit into any garden theme. They provide height, movement, and long season color to your landscape. Most questions about ornamental grasses consist of when to plant them, trimming grasses and how and when to divide them. Little Fountain Interest in Ornamental Grasses has exploded. They can fit into any garden theme. They provide height, movement, and long season color to your landscape. Most questions about ornamental grasses consist of when to plant them, trimming, and how and when to divide them. Grasses are classified as cool season, warm season, or evergreen. Below is the difference between all the various types of grasses. COOL SEASON Most growth occurs in spring before temperatures exceed 75 degrees, and in the fall when temperatures cool down. You can cut back cool season grasses in the very early spring as soon as the snow is gone. WARM SEASON Most growth starts mid to late spring and flowers when it is hot. The grasses usually turn shades of brown from winter. The warm season grasses can be cut back in fall or mid to late spring. EVERGREEN GRASSES These ornamental grasses look like grasses but are not classified as grasses. Examples are sedge and carex. Evergreen grasses don’t ever go dormant. Do not divide these grasses as it will wound them and their ability to live through winter. Sedges DIVIDING ORNAMENTAL GRASSES You don’t necessarily have to divide grasses unless you want more plants, the plant has an obvious dead center, or they just haven’t done very well or have been declining in growth. CUTTING BACK ORNAMENTAL GRASSES Resist the urge to cut back younger grasses as it may result in winter injury. Trim plants to 1-2 feet if you want to maintain a tidy appearance but still hold leaves and snow for winter protection. There are so many ornamental grasses to choose from. You can click on the following link to find out some of the various types available. https://www.naturehills.com/grasses/ornamental-grasses . Here are some suggestions for shade tolerant grasses from the University of Minnesota Extension. For native grasses with great fall color , try these varieties: Little Bluestem, Big Bluestem, Switchgrass, River Oats, and Prairie Dropseed. Professor Mary Meyer, grass expert at the University of Minnesota recently named some of her favorite ornamental grasses : Hakone Grass, ‘Goldtau’ Tufted Hairgrass, Bowles Golden Sedge, Palm Sedge, ‘Blackhawks’ Big Bluestem. Blue Heaven Remember, not all ornamental grasses are perennials, some are only available as annuals. They all make a great addition to your garden and add a ton of picturesque scenes in the winter and all year long. Giant Miscanthus References: Ornamental Grasses Care – A Guide to Cutting & Dividing - Proven Winners – Kerry Meyer UM Extension – Ornamental Grasses Photo credits: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

< Back Things to Check Out This Spring: What are Buds, Leaves and Blossoms? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Keep an eye out for BUDS, LEAVES, and BLOSSOMS growing on the trees around you. Read on to learn more about these fun signs of spring and some tree education ideas for children of all ages! Your nose may tell you there are blossoms nearby and your ears may hear the buzzing of happy bees enjoying their nectar and pollen. How does the rounded or pointed shape of a bud compare to the flat shape of many leaves? How many different colors and shapes of blossoms can you find on a walk around your neighborhood, or a visit to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum? pussy willow (salix discolor) In spring, trees start to wake up from their winter naps, called dormancy . The days are longer. The sunlight is stronger. The temperatures warm, allowing water to be pulled from the soil into the roots and then move within the tree. The sap starts flowing, full of energy. In a maple tree, we can even use the sap to make syrup for your pancakes. Yum! Sap helps feed the trees too. As the sap carries nutrients throughout the tree, BUDS swell at the end of tree branches - they are gathering energy and getting ready for the new season. Those buds are the beginning of a new leaf or blossom! diagram of a twig with lateral (side) buds and terminal (end) bud A LEAF grows from some buds - this is a flattened structure that has some big jobs: Transpiration: helping the tree to release water vapor and oxygen into the air and take in carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis: taking the sun’s energy and making it into fuel for the tree Shade and shelter: from sun, wind and rain Food: what kind of creatures eat leaves? Some big mammals and small insects like to munch on those tasty treats. 4 leaf Pay attention to the shape and structure of leaves - you can identify the tree by the kind of leaf it grows! Some buds turn into flower BLOSSOMS : their job is to attract pollinators with bright colors and sweet scents! If the pollinators (like bees) can bring pollen from one plant to another, some blossoms will grow into fruit like an apple! apple trees in blossom The University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources has a fun way to identify, different features in tree species. Find more tree identification cards here . card of Black Cherry Tree Ready to read more? Check out some books from the Dakota County libraries about BUDS, LEAVES, BLOSSOMS and more on trees! Here are a few suggestions: National Geographic Kids, Ultimate Explorer Field Guide: Tree by Patricia Daniels The Things That I Love About Trees by Chris Butterworth & illustrated by Charlotte Voake Can You Hear the Trees Talking, Discovering the Hidden Life of the Forest by Peter Wohllenben Nature All Around Trees by Pamela Hickman and Carolyn Gavin Keep an eye on this shrub if you happen to be by the Wescott Library steps - I found some branches with buds just beginning to swell with snow still on the ground this spring! Find some additional resources for tree activities from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources here . But most importantly, get out there with the child in your life and enjoy the spring BUDS, LEAVES, AND BLOSSOMS! Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1,2), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (3), University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources (4,6), Sarah Heidtke (5,7,8)

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)

< Back Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses from your garden fruits and vegetables. With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses with your garden fruits and vegetables. Why Safety Tips are Needed Foodborne illness caused by the naturally occurring bacteria, viruses, molds and/or pathogens found on raw produce not carefully washed or prepared can make you sick. (Note: These microorganisms are present in your garden whether you choose to use organic or conventional gardening methods). Additionally, it is also possible to get sick from contamination of produce from chemicals, such as cleaning solutions, fertilizers, pesticides, and heavy metals (lead) and other chemicals that may be found in garden soil or well water. Safely Growing and Harvesting Produce in Your Garden Site Preparation Locate your produce gardens away from manure piles, well caps, garbage cans, septic systems and areas where wildlife or the family pets roam. Use compost safely. Compost is the natural breakdown of organic materials, and also a source of pathogens. To be safe for gardening, your compost must reach a temperature of at least 130°F. Check the temperature with a compost thermometer. Do not use any animal waste, including pet waste, meat scraps or dairy product waste, in your compost bin. Garden Maintenance Use a safe water source, such as from municipal or public water systems. Avoid lakes, streams, ponds and streams as a water source, where they can be polluted by human sewage or animal waste, fertilizers and pesticides from lawns and farm fields, or chemicals from industry. Ground water, the source for well water, is less likely to have microbial contaminants, but test your well water yearly to ensure it is safe. Curtail animals and birds near your vegetation during the gardening season, by keeping pets away, minimizing vegetation at the edges to decrease nesting and hiding places for rats and mice, and stopping feeding of wild animals and birds near your produce garden. Discourage your backyard critters with the use of fencing and noise deterrents. Harvesting Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to set your harvest in. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade. Use clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) when picking produce. Do not harvest when you are sick or have symptoms of an illness. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing produce into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce, and discard the produce that is close to these signs, or that has visible animal feces on it. Storage If you choose to wash fruits and vegetables before storing, be sure to dry them thoroughly with a clean paper towel. (Never wash berries until you are ready to eat them.) If you choose to store without washing, shake, rub or brush off any garden dirt with a paper towel or soft brush while still outside. Store unwashed produce in plastic bags or containers. Keep fruit and vegetable bins clean. When washing produce fresh from the warm outdoors, the rinse water should not be more than 10 degrees colder than the produce. If you are washing refrigerated produce, use cold water. Fruits and vegetables needing refrigeration can be stored at 40° F or less. Fruits and vegetables stored at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes) should be in a cool, dry, pest-free, well-ventilated area separate from household chemicals. Canning and Preserving: Follow the USDA guidelines and jar instructions for safe canning: https://nchfp.uga.edu Serving Always wash your hands before serving. Always wash your produce before eating. Rinse fresh fruits and vegetables under cool, running, clean water, even if you do not plan to eat the skin or rind. Never use soap, detergent, or bleach solution to wash fresh fruits or vegetables. These solutions can affect flavor and may not be safe to ingest. Most root vegetables will need to be washed (before going into the kitchen) to remove sand and soil. Use a clean bucket or spray table outside to spray or dunk the produce to remove soil. Avoid bringing the produce into your home kitchen before using, as there is more potential for cross-contamination. Avoid cross-contamination when preparing fruits and vegetables, which occurs when a clean work surface, such as a cutting board or utensil (paring knife) or uncontaminated food is contaminated by dirty work surfaces, utensils, hands or food. If you have leftover produce that has been cut, sliced, or cooked, store it in clean, air-tight containers in the refrigerator at 40°F or less. Fresh, home-grown vegetables and fruit can be a delicious pleasure. Follow these simple rules to make sure they are also safe for you and your family to enjoy. Sources: https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/manual/five-steps-food-safe-fruit-vegetable-gardening/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/harvest-your-garden-produce-safely Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Eating Bitter Melon Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern What’s the big deal with bitter melon? I mean, it’s bitter even when it’s mature! What would compel someone to eat it? Believe it or not, this bumpy and sometimes spiky little vegetable has been eaten for centuries by various cultures around the world who have learned to embrace and even enjoy that bitterness. At the same time, they have also reaped its nutritional benefits. Read on to learn more about the benefits of bitter melon and how to enjoy eating it! Bitter melon has long been used in traditional medicine to treat various kinds of ailments, most notably diabetes. In developing countries in Asia, Africa, Central and South America it has also been used to treat dysmenorrhea, eczema, gout, leprosy, psoriasis, gout, and even scabies. In developed nations, recent animal and clinical studies of bitter melon extract have shown that it has potential therapeutic benefit in diabetes and obesity related metabolic dysfunction.1 Does the above information encourage you to give it a try the next time you see it at your local farmers’ market? Maybe the following recipe will. I consulted with my favorite Filipino friends, Teddie and Leila Maasin, to find a recipe that could be enjoyed by someone trying bitter melon for the first time and they shared this one (with my edits ): Vegetable Fritters 4 cups of prepared vegetables to include the following: 1 thinly sliced Chinese bitter melon 1 shredded medium sweet potato (I used a Murasaki sweet potato ) 1 large, shredded carrot 1 chopped medium onion 1 to 2 cups chopped spinach or celery leaves ( or whatever leafy greens you have ) 2 beaten eggs 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch Black pepper to taste Vegetable ( or peanut ) oil for deep frying To prepare bitter melon, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and spongy pith, and thinly slice in cross sections. Soak slices for 1 hour in salted water to remove some of the bitterness, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible and place slices in a large mixing bowl. Add and mix in the remaining vegetables, then stir in beaten eggs until well combined with the vegetables. Now would be a good time to start heating your vegetable oil in a deep saucepan or frying pan. (Don’t forget to have a pan cover handy!) In a smaller mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and black pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the larger mixing bowl with the vegetables and mix until you have a vegetable-laden batter. Pre-form patties from this batter, adding flour or water to get them to hold together. Fry patties in hot oil until medium brown, then remove them to a platter lined with paper towels to wick up excess oil. I like to serve these vegetable fritters with sweet chili sauces like these: Obviously, the recipe featured above is not the most healthful of bitter melon recipes due to the deep-frying cooking method. If you’d like to try another, just look for any of the numerous stir-fry recipes available on the Internet. As a bonus, the Journal of Lipids reference article linked below contains a “typical recipe of a bitter melon dish popular in Bangladesh”, called Bitter Melon Fry with Potato. Check it out! 1 J Lipids. 2015; 2015: 496169 Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1,2,3