< Back Putting Your Garden to Bed If it’s yellow or brown, cut it down. If it’s green, leave it alone. This long-standing rule-of-thumb means you can’t just wake up one day and decide to put your garden to bed for the winter. It’s a gradual process because plants die back at different rates depending on when they transition energy to the roots. Cutting off green leaves can weaken a plant and affect its vigor and bloom next year. Besides, there are lots of reasons to avoid cutting shrubs, stems and perennials – for winter interest and for wildlife. Here are some ways to ready your gardens for cold and snow ahead. Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Ready for a Long Winter’s Nap? October is the time to put your garden to bed. This means cutting things back, cleaning up what's left, packing away tools and pots, and getting everything ready to go for next spring. Then you can settle in for winter knowing that your garden will look healthy and happily tucked in! Cut Back Keep your garden tidy and save labor later by cutting back many perennials after frost causes them to turn brown and die. On the other hand, some perennials (like Catmint) look good until the snow flies and can be left until spring. And some perennials offer seed heads for foraging birds…or shelter for beneficial insects. These plants support Mother Nature while providing some interest in what might otherwise be a bleak winter landscape. In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. Remember, don't prune woody plants, trees and shrubs until late winter when they are dormant. Clean Up Healthy plant debris can be composted at home or at a municipal compost site. Debris from plants with powdery mildew or other diseases should be composted at a municipal site, where temperatures get high enough to kill the disease. Pull dead or declining annuals. It's hard to do, but they won’t come back next spring. Clean up overgrown areas to prevent animals and pests from moving in – like brush piles or hidden spots around the yard where weedy trees and shrubs have taken root. Harvest everything above ground in the vegetable garden and under fruit trees. Don't leave fruits and vegetables out all winter to rot, attract animals, and set seed. Other Tasks Empty, clean and disinfect your containers by spraying them with a bleach cleaner. Pottery should be moved into a shed or garage to avoid freezing and breaking. Clean and store stakes, tomato cages, garden ornaments and other hardware. They’ll last longer and look better next spring. Clean soil from your tools, then sharpen edges with a file. Finish with a light coating of oil to prevent rusting. Move any plants that spend their winters inside. Quarantine before introducing them to your other houseplants to prevent pests from spreading. Dig up your tender bulbs and tubers well before the threat of frost. Store them in a warm, dry place out of direct light. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: October Gardening Tips from the University of Minnesota Arboretum – October Gardening Tips (umn.edu) Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2), University of Minnesota Extension (3, 4)

< Back Swiss Chard – It’s Like Spinach, But It’s Not Swiss Chard (Chard) is a dark leafy green that can be used raw or cooked. It also freezes well for winter consumption. Chard can be planted any time during the growing season and re-blooms after harvesting. Not only is it nutritious but it looks beautiful in the garden, as well. Read this article to learn why and how to grow Swiss Chard in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Swiss Chard (Chard) is in the beet family, ( Beta vulgaris) and is very easy to grow. Like spinach, you can direct seed Chard, however, you will want to wait until all danger of frost is past. Unlike spinach, Chard is not sensitive to day length and does not bolt when the days get longer and it gets hot in early summer. Very rarely, if planted too early while temperatures are cold or cool, Chard may bolt. You only need to plant Chard once in the spring and it will keep re-growing after each harvest through Fall. While spinach will regrow if baby leaves are harvested early, it will eventually bolt in early summer. You do not have to plant or replant Chard for a fall crop (which you may want to consider in late August for spinach) and if you miss getting it planted in spring, you can plant it at any time during the growing season. So, if you haven’t planted it yet, go ahead and get some Chard seeds sown. Swiss Chard seedlings You will want to manage the weeds around Chard to prevent it from having to compete for water and nutrients. Keep it regularly watered. If drought conditions exist, leaf growth will slow. As soon as it has sufficient water again, it will resume growing. To harvest Chard, you can pick the leaves at varying sizes based on your preference. Some people will cut the leaves just above the base of the plant (the crown). The leaves do pick up dirt in the stalks and leaves, so you will want to wash it well to avoid a gritty bite. Simply wash well in cool water. You will be able to harvest Chard into the Fall months, sometimes even after the first snowfall. Chard freezes well, requiring simple blanching in boiling water, followed by a cool water bath, and bagging it in a freezer bag. Nutritionally, Swiss Chard provides many important nutrients such as Vitamin K and Vitamin A. It also provides Vitamin C and magnesium and contains antioxidants including beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. It is low in carbohydrates and is low calorie (depending upon how it is cooked). Some studies suggest it can help with blood sugar control, support heart health, reduce blood pressure, and other health benefits. Some articles label it a ‘superfood’. On top of all that goodness, Chard can be a lovely addition to a landscape as the stalks and leaf veins range in color from bright white (Fordhook most common variety), to yellow, gold, green, orange, pink, red, or striped. Some varieties are: “Bright Lights”, “Rainbow”, “Rhubarb”, “Neon Lights”. Paired with annual or perennial flowers, the green, bronze, or purple leaves with their showy veins and stalks add texture and color to containers and flower gardens. Consider adding Swiss Chard to your garden for both its beauty and nutritional values! References: Growing spinach and swiss chard in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-spinach-and-swiss-chard#harvest-and-storage-390412 Swiss Chard https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/swiss-chard/ Healthline: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/swiss-chard Health benefits of swiss chard: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/284103 Allergy Associates of LaCrosse: https://lacrosseallergy.com/resources/diet-and-nutrition-counseling/superfoods/swiss-chard/ Photo Credits: University of Delaware (1), University of Minnesota Extension, Gardening: Swiss Chard (2), University of Wisconsin Extension (3,4,5,6)

< Back Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As the snow starts to melt and a few green tufts of grass peak out, it’s a great time to start thinking about planting native shrubs. If you have an area that needs screening for privacy, a walkway or border to delineate, a property line that needs a hedge, you would do well to think about a native shrub. Over the next three months we’ll talk about some great options. One very attractive choice is black chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa ). A. melanocarpa has been quite popular with the dietetically conscious in that it is rich in antioxidants and, even better, will not make you choke. Although it does have a distinct aftertaste which some find bracing and others, not so much. With the right recipe, the berries can make a tasty jam or jelly. In any event, you don’t need to eat the plant to enjoy it. It is an attractive woody perennial which is well behaved. It makes a great ornamental shrub, especially for a traditional garden. May flowers Black chokeberry grows in the wild from eastern Minnesota and northeastern Iowa eastwards across the Midwest. It is cold tolerant from Zone 3 to 8. Although it grows naturally on sandy soils it can easily be transplanted to a variety of environments ranging from sand to clay. It does well in full sun to light shade. Once established, black chokeberry produces, in May, clusters of attractive, showy white flowers with pink stamens that rise above the petals. They go on to form inky, glossy black fruit in late summer. The berries remain on the shrub through the winter providing interest against the snow. The leaves are usually a deep shimmering green which transforms into bright red in fall, setting off the glossy black fruit. Black chokeberry usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall. Although it is a well-behaved shrub, it will send off root suckers to form colonies. If you are going for a more formal look they can be easily removed. Ripe Fruit Black chokeberry is usually a very low maintenance plant once established. It is disease resistant to most blights although occasional leaf spot is sometimes seen. It is a versatile landscape plant which can be used in formal gardens although it also does well for naturalizing where suckering is not an issue. Its tolerance of boggy soils makes it a great addition to pond or stream margins. There are several cultivars available in nurseries. “Professor Ed” is one notable. Often , on-line sites specializing in native perennials of the Midwest can provide hearty specimens. black chokeberry in a naturalized setting Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2,3)

< Back Glorious Amaryllis Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with large, stunning blooms that can be grown as a houseplant year-round. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with blooms averaging 4 to 10 inches and can even be grown as a houseplant year around. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. My summer flowers are faded with the first frosts of fall, and the spring bulbs are planted and resting before their show in a few months. It’s about this time of year that I start to really think about Amaryllis. Amaryllis bulbs and blooms start appearing more frequently in stores with their holiday shades of red, pink, white and more - ready to keep us flower gardeners happy with blooms inside while the cold Minnesota weather settles in. Amaryllis are native to warmer climates. The bulbs we generally see for purchase as houseplants in our part of the world are hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum , and are native to Central and South America. Let’s talk about how to grow these beauties here in Minnesota. Growing Amaryllis Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers - about 1 inch diameter wider than the largest part of the bulb, and twice as tall. Soil should be able to drain freely from container - Amaryllis do not like to sit in water and can rot if left too wet. One third to one half of the bulb should still be visible above the soil, and the bulb should sit up over the edge of the container. Water thoroughly after planting and allow the water to drain. Then water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch. Place the pot on a saucer in a sunny window until flower buds begin to open, then move the plant out of direct sunlight. Keep Your Amaryllis Plant Healthy and Flowering for Years Amaryllis can be grown actively all year, and, with some care, will continue to rebloom. Once the flowers are finished blooming, snip them off so the plant doesn’t put energy into creating seed pods. Let the green foliage continue to have sunlight so the bulb can store energy through photosynthesis. Unlike some bulbs, Amaryllis does not require a dormant period in order to bloom and rebloom. However, you can try to time blooms by allowing the plant to go dormant in a cool, dry, dark location for 8 to12 weeks without water or feeding. Then bring the plant out into a sunny place and resume normal watering and fertilizing with a high phosphorus content (about half the strength the package recommendation) and expect blooms in 4 to 6 weeks. Potted Amaryllis can also be taken outside in Minnesota during warmer months. They will need to gradually spend time outside to acclimate to the outdoors, and then find a location with at least six hours of sun. Just set the pot out in a sunny spot, or stick the whole pot into the ground in the garden. Amaryllis will not survive frost or freezing temperatures, so they will need to be brought back inside before cold temperatures arrive. It is not necessary to repot Amaryllis plants from season to season. In fact, they prefer to be somewhat potbound for the best blooms. The best time to repot Amaryllis plants is after they’ve gone through a dormant period, and then they will likely only need to be repotted with fresh sterile soil about every 3-4 years. For more information on Amaryllis, and many more houseplants, check out the University of Minnesota - Extension website . Happy Growing! Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (5, 6)

< Back Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer “Time spent in nature is essential for our health and comes with myriad benefits,” says Dr. Jean Larson, the manager of Nature-Based Therapeutics and Nature Heals Initiative at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and faculty lead of the Nature-Based Therapeutic Studies at the Earl Bakken Center for Spirituality and Healing of the University of Minnesota. Read on for Master Gardener Mickey Scullard’s article about the therapeutic applications of horticulture and ways to make the benefits of gardening more accessible to many different levels of ability. Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening addresses health, healing, and methods to help people of all abilities garden. Adaptive gardening provides suggestions for tools and garden structures that facilitate people who may have visual, sensory, or physical limitations such as arthritis or mobility difficulties that don’t permit kneeling on the ground. Therapeutic gardening, often called Horticultural Therapy, employs techniques that help people regain lost skills or learn new skills. Horticultural therapy has a long history of proven success in helping people heal through gardening. Originally focused on people with mental illnesses and then on soldiers returning from combat, it has expanded far beyond that to include physical rehabilitation for many conditions. Research has shown that horticultural therapy helps improve memory and cognitive abilities, too. Some programs have found success helping people who live with eating disorders. Physically, people can improve muscle strength, coordination, balance, and endurance. Horticultural therapy is performed by therapists who are professionals with specialized training leading to certification. The University of Minnesota’s Center for Spirituality and Health partners with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum to offer a horticultural therapy certification program as part of their Nature-based therapeutics program: UMN Nature-Based Therapeutics . They also offer courses in animal-assisted interactions and therapeutic landscape design. The Landscape Arboretum has a Sensory Garden that provides people with a wonderful example of the different type of healing properties of plants through smell, texture, and beauty. Designed to help encourage people to relax and designed to be accessible, it has something for everyone. Adaptive gardening provides methods people can use to garden throughout their life. This may start with the garden design, identifying the best planting structures, and using tools that have been designed to lessen strain, extend reach, and other mechanisms to help people perform all the steps needed to grow flowers and vegetables. Oregon State University developed an informative guide that walks you through the things to think about (see link below). For example, you may want to plan your garden walkways to be wheelchair accessible, position garden beds near water sources, or use a plastic garbage can filled with water to allow the gardener to easily dip their watering can. The material you use on pathways between garden beds can facilitate movement and thinking about different heights and widths of garden beds are other considerations. Container gardening may be a good technique for some people to continue to garden with less maintenance. The Landscape Arboretum’s Sensory Garden provides some examples of adaptive gardening through containers and raised beds. There are also smaller, easier ways to adapt to gardening limitations that include the availability of specialized garden tools that have handles that lessen strain on arthritic limbs and hands, or those that extend the reach so you don’t have to bend as far. For example, you can get easi-grip trowels, ergonomic and/or ratcheting pruners. You will want to practice safe lifting techniques by bending at the hips, lift with your knees, and lift close to your body. Consider lighter loads and making multiple trips. Pushing is better than pulling and it is always good to use carts/wagons. Other techniques that can help you garden longer safely include stretching before starting, gardening in shorter amounts of time, e.g., 60 – 90 minutes. Try to avoid or break-up repetitive movements and make sure you drink water. Gardening has many benefits to our health, well-being, and good mental health. With some extra work, it can be experienced by everyone. It can also help people heal from injuries, learn new skills, and address many different types of mental health issues. References University of Minnesota Center for Spirituality and Health Nature-Based Therapeutics https://csh.umn.edu/academics/focus-areas/nature-based-therapeutics Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Nature-Based Therapeutics https://arb.umn.edu/learn/health-wellbeing-programs/about-nature-based-therapeutics Oregon State University https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/em8498.pdf University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources https://ucanr.edu/sites/cetrinityucdavisedu/files/280231.pdf Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3) & University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources (4,5)

< Back Timing For Cutting, Pruning and Dividing Plants Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Gardeners understand that most plants and trees in their yards need to be pruned at times. The problem is that knowing when to prune can be confusing. Not all plants and trees should be pruned at the same time of year. Master Gardener Cherise Skeba found it hard to keep track of when to prune the plants in her yard despite a diligent effort to learn about each plant. After doing her research, she developed 7 rules that help her and can help you, to know when to prune to keep your plant healthy and producing beautiful blooms. Read this article to learn the 7 helpful rules As a garden enthusiast, I understand the need to cut, prune, divide and otherwise clean-up plants in my garden and yard. However, I have not found a reliable and easy system to know the best timing for these maintenance efforts. I have purchased gardening calendars and gardening books to help create a maintenance schedule. I even started a catalog for my individual plants, noting the recommended maintenance tasks and timing. I still found myself searching the internet every time I wanted to understand maintenance timing for a specific plant. There must be a better way to retain garden maintenance knowledge! This idea led me to review many garden maintenance articles and develop a simple rule set based on common plant characteristics that can be used to guide appropriate timing for plant cutting, pruning and dividing in northern climates. Here are seven rules to help everyone remember when to cut, prune and divide plants. Rule 1 : Dead, significantly diseased or severely insect-infected plant parts should be cut off from perennials and shrubs as soon as the problems are apparent. Rule 2 : Herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year) should be left intact to overwinter and then be cut down to the ground in the spring prior to blooming. This practice gives insects and animals food and shelter during the winter months. In addition, leaving the plants intact improves their winter survival chances. Autumn Joy Sedum in winter Exception: In the autumn, cut down to the ground perennials that have a history of disease or are especially prone to insect infestations. Cutting these plants back in the autumn reduces the chances of pests surviving through winter. Common plants that meet this exception are B ee balm, R udbeckia, I ris, P hlox, P eonies and A sparagus (acronym BRIPPA). Rule 3 : Division of perennial flowers should be completed in the spring for fall-blooming plants and in autumn for spring-blooming or summer-blooming plants. Rule 4 : Spring-flowering shrubs (bloom before June, e.g. lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas and rhododendron) should be trimmed immediately after the blooming period ends. These shrubs grow blooms on one-year-old wood. Trimming after the bloom period keeps the blooms intact for the current year and promotes new growth for blooms in the following year. Exception: A heavy prune to regenerate an overgrown spring-blooming plant should be completed in the winter. This will reduce the spring blooms but will ultimately promote a healthier plant. Rule 5 : Summer-flowering shrubs (bloom after June, e.g., Ninebark, panicle Hydrangeas) should be trimmed during late winter to early spring. These shrubs grow blooms on “new wood” (this season’s growth) and should therefore be trimmed prior to the time the new branches begin to grow to preserve the current year’s blooms. Do not prune shrubs late summer through autumn since this will promote new growth that would be susceptible to winter damage. Summer Ninebark Rule 6 : Deciduous trees , including fruit trees, should be pruned late winter. Winter trimming allows a full view of the tree’s shape and allows the wounds to heal before warm-weather pests begin to flourish. Refinements: Oak trees should not be pruned after February to avoid the spread of oak wilt disease. River birch trees should be pruned early in the winter after the leaves have fallen. Rule 7 : Evergreen shrubs and trees should not be pruned since branch removal may damage the integrity of the tree and new growth will not occur when pruning back to older growth. New evergreen buds (but not branches) may be trimmed in early spring to help shape the evergreens and promote density. I’ve created a short rhyme to help me remember the appropriate timing for cutting, dividing and pruning plants: Garden Pruning Calendar Herbaceous perennials peak through the snow But in the spring, cut to the ground or mow. Divide perennials in autumn if they bloom in the spring But divide in the spring if autumn blooms cling. Trim spring-blooming shrubs after flowers fade But wait until winter if there is a fall flower parade. Prune trees in the winter if they drop their leaves But evergreen plants should be left to do as they please. Cutting and pruning schedules for specific plants can be found in the citations below which also provide additional guidance for how to cut and prune plants. Citations with individual plant lists “How to Divide and Transplant Perennials”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-divide-and-transplant-perennials “Pruning Flowering Shrubs”, Rutgers University http://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1221/ “43 Perennials to Cut Back in the Spring”, The Spruce http://www.thespruce.com/pruning-perennials-in-spring-1402713 “Pruning Guide”, Bachman’s http://bachmans.com/information/resource-hub/pruning-guide “Pruning trees and shrubs”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs General citations “How and when to divide perennials”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials “Proper Time to Prune Trees and Shrubs”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/proper-time-prune-trees-and-shrubs “Pruning Deciduous Shrubs”, University of Wisconsin http://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-deciduous-shrubs/ “Cut Back Perennials Now or Later?”, Purdue University http://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/cut-back-perennials-now-or-later-2/ “How and When to Prune Flowering Shrubs”, Penn State http://extension.psu.edu/how-and-when-to-prune-flowering-shrubs “The Nuances of Pruning Spring-flowering Shrubs”, North Dakota State University http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/news/columns/dakota-gardener/dakota-gardener-the-nuances-of-pruning-spring-flowering-shrubs “Dormant Season Tree and Shrub Pruning”, University of Illinois http://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/dormant_season_pruning_infosheet.pdf “Pruning Shrubs and Hedges in the Home Garden”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/pruning-shrubs-and-hedges-home-garden/ “Leaving Perennials Standing: Pros and Cons”, Northern Gardener, Minnesota State Horticultural Society http://northerngardener.org/leaving-perennials-standing-pros-and-cons/ Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (Creative Commons)(1), Les Hutchinson, flickr.com (2) flickr.com (3)

< Back Sustainable Foraging for Wild Foods: Lessons from Indigenous Gardening Practices Foraging for wild foods is an increasingly popular activity, and it’s not hard to see why: it’s fun, educational, and delicious! It’s also not surprising that there is considerable overlap among people who enjoy gardening at home and searching for edible plants in the woods and prairies. As more people seek out and harvest wild foods, however, it is critical to do so responsibly and sustainably for the protection of biodiversity and the wellbeing of future generations. This article discusses how we can look for inspiration and guidance from our region’s Indigenous peoples and provides resources to forage safely and responsibly. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener For those of us who descended from European settlers, it is common to view gardening and foraging as distinct (albeit food-related) activities - one involves direct cultivation, and the other involves harvesting what mother nature has produced herself. If we consider Indigenous history and experience, however, we see how many “wild” foods have been carefully managed in ways that could and should be considered as “gardening” in the Western sense. 1 Through careful observation and strong norms of stewardship and reciprocity, Indigenous practices such as controlled burns, selective harvesting, and the intentional sowing of seeds in opportune places, led to the development of dynamic ecosystems that supported both human and non-human needs for centuries. 2 In Minnesota, the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples have maintained their own deep and complex relationships with the land and its inhabitants. Both tribes view the land as a living entity, deserving of mutual respect. Ceremonies are often conducted in the harvesting of wild rice and other foods, giving thanks to the earth for its resources and establishing an ethic of responsibility for the ongoing health of individual species and full ecosystems. Modern foragers should adopt this same mindset by approaching the land with humility and gratitude. Wild rice harvesting Selective harvesting is perhaps the most critical practice that aligns with these principles. Indigenous peoples sought to harvest only as much as plant populations would allow, ensuring that enough fruits, seeds, nuts, and fungi persisted as future food sources for humans and nonhumans alike. Careful foraging is not just good manners; it is fully in our own self-interest! Similarly, using all parts of the plant reduces waste and is a demonstration of respect for the lives of all kinds that support our wellbeing. Beyond the moral imperative to forage responsibly, you must be mindful of current rules and regulations that can vary by location and jurisdiction. And, if you are hoping to forage on private property, always secure permission first. In all cases, foraging responsibly requires a certain amount of knowledge of the particular food and an awareness of its surroundings for potential growth or threats. There are a number of great resources available for anyone interested in learning more about specific plants, mushrooms, and other wild foods. Sam Thayer’s Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants is widely considered authoritative and provides a comprehensive introduction to hundreds of species. Kelly Kindscher’s Edible Wild Plants of the Prairie: An Ethnobotanical Guide also includes a great deal of Indigenous history and culture surrounding the use of many familiar (and unfamiliar) plants. As common sense would dictate, unless you are already familiar with a particular species it is absolutely necessary to positively identify what is in front of you and learn how to safely consume it. Ramps - wild onions or leeks Foraging sustainably is more important than ever as our natural resources face the additional increasing pressures of climate change, invasive species, and urban development. In order to promote the health and wellbeing of human and nonhuman worlds, we must honor the enduring wisdom and teachings of the Dakota and Ojibwe peoples. Ethical foraging is more than just a list of rules or practices—it is an ongoing relationship between people and the land that nurtures us. Next time you find yourself moseying for morels or rooting for ramps, I hope you will think of yourself not as someone who has come simply to take and consume, but to garden and grow. 1 An excellent resource to begin learning about these practices is M. Kat Anderson’s Tending the Wild Native American Knowledge and the Management of California's Natural Resources . 2 There has been a great deal of modern research on how, for example, Indigenous peoples intentionally supported the biodiversity and soil quality of the Amazon rainforest, once thought by European colonizers (and perhaps still by some today) to be an untamed wilderness. Photo Credits: public domain (1-3)

< Back Chocolates From Sweet Potatoes Do you love sweet potatoes but have trouble growing them? Well, you’re not alone. Read how Master Gardener Anita Oakman managed to find a way to serve her skinny sweet potatoes that fooled and pleased her sweet potato loving mother-in-law. You might love this recipe, too! Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener I’ve never had much luck with growing sweet potatoes but every spring, hope springs eternal! I was so excited to get my hands on some not-so-readily-available Murasaki slips and a new elevated self-watering planter so I wouldn’t have to dig up my big purple potatoes on my hands and knees. I grabbed a new large bag of soil with compost and planted those slips after all danger of frost had passed. I made sure to keep up on my watering and sometimes even added soluble fertilizer. What a conscientious gardener I was! And what beautiful foliage grew from those slips! I thought for certain that some large, luscious tubers lay below the surface. Well, I was wrong. Again. Those of you who have grown sweet potatoes successfully saw this coming, didn’t you? You saw it from the moment I mentioned “new soil with compost”. And the words “beautiful foliage,” were a dead giveaway. You may have found that they produce well in poor soil , not in compost-happy soil and certainly not in over-fertilized soil. Lesson learned. See if you can detect the difference between my two homegrown Murasakis and the two I picked up at Trader Joe’s. Defeat is not such a bitter pill to swallow, especially when dealing with compostable goods, but I was too emotionally attached to let those skinny little potatoes fade away. I cured them properly and stored them in a cool, dry place. And then Thanksgiving rolled around and brought my mother-in-law, Carolyn, along. Carolyn grew up in farm country and loves her sweet potatoes sweet, with butter and marshmallows. I had unfortunately neglected to pick up any canned candied yams before the stores closed and had to call those Murasakis up from the bullpen. Or rather, the basement. I simply washed and scrubbed them well, poked them with a fork, placed them on a cookie sheet and roasted them with the skins on in a 425 degree oven for 30 minutes. The cooking time was reduced from an hour for normal-sized sweet potatoes, but even a half hour was too long. My potatoes came out too soft and small to even think about peeling, so I chopped them crosswise, poured a little melted butter on them, and into a serving dish they went. Our Thanksgiving dinner was lovely and when it came time to send guests home with leftovers, we asked Carolyn what she wanted. “Oh, I’ll have some smoked turkey and mashed potatoes and some of Anita’s homemade buns,” she said. “And I’d like some of those little chocolates for dessert, too.” With their deep purple color and natural sweetness (and a little assist from the melted butter), my mother-in-law had mistaken the Murasaki sweet potatoes for chocolate pieces. We drove her home happy and well-fed.

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are one of the few crops usually harvested in late fall – late September through late October, depending on your location. Flavor improves with cooler fall weather and they can stay in the garden as long as temperatures remain above 20°F. Read more about how to grow and enjoy this late season vegetable. Julie Harris, Master Gardener As a ‘winter” plant, seeds can be planted indoors in June. They can be hardened off when the seedlings have 3 or 4 leaves (about 3 weeks). They can be planted outdoors about a week later. Direct seeded plants need twice the time to mature as seeds started indoors. You can also plant transplants. Brussels sprouts belong to the Brassica family. They are of the same species as broccoli, cabbage, collard greens, kale, and kohlrabi. Plant brussels sprouts in areas where they, or plants in the same family, have not been planted recently. Brussels sprouts require well-drained but moist soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Plant seeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep every 18 inches; thinning to 1 after they have germinated. Transplanted plants should be placed 18 inches apart. Brussels sprouts must have good soil moisture to mature properly. The amount of water needed will depend on your soil (clay, sandy or loamy) but keep the soil moist. Brussels sprouts plants are tender and you may need to protect them from wind and insects with a lightweight but secure row cover. Mulching is encouraged. Brussels sprouts look like mini cabbages and grow on the stalk of a tall, leafy plant. The sprouts develop where each leaf joins the stem, beginning at the bottom and moving up. Cut off the top 1 or 2 inches of the plant when the lowest sprouts are 1 inch in diameter. This will cause the sprouts at the top to grow also. Harvest brussels sprouts by removing the leaves and cutting the plant off at the ground. Keep the stalks in a cool cellar and harvest the sprouts over a few weeks. They are generally harvested from the stalk when the sprout is 2 inches or less. Sprouts will also keep in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Brussels sprouts are high in nutrients, fiber and vitamins and have a number of health benefits. They are especially rich in vitamin K, which is necessary for blood clotting and bone health. They are also high in vitamin C, which helps promote iron absorption and helps with tissue repair and immune function. What type of Brussel Sprouts should you look for? In recent University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener vegetable trials, the top 3 rated varieties were: Gustus, Hestia, and Diablo. Brussels sprouts can be cooked in many ways but roasting is a common method. They can be frozen or pickled. Reference: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts Photo credits: www.pixels.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (3)

< Back Starting Seeds Indoors If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil but reading this article will help you learn how to grow seeds successfully indoors. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings growing vigorously in a warm humid environment Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket