< Back Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea): A Rare Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you heard of or planted Yellowwood? It is one of the rarest of native shade trees. But Yellowwood is large, beautiful native tree that will grow well in Minnesota. Yellowwood has a special feature in the spring that Master Gardener Jim Lakin discusses in this article. Read more about this unique native tree. Yellowwood is one of the rarest of native shade trees, naturally occurring in the Eastern to Central United States. It’s most often found on the limestone cliffs of Kentucky, Tennessee and North Carolina. However, it is hardy through Zone 4 and thus a suitable planting for southern and central Minnesota. And, indeed, it is well worth considering as a gracious addition to your landscape. Yellowwood grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet with a broad rounded crown and a smooth bark. The name yellowwood comes from its yellow heartwood, used in small amounts for specialist furniture and decorative woodturning. Although it is of great value as a shade tree, one of its most spectacular features is its flowering. In late May to early June, Yellowwood produces long, white clumps of wisteria-like flowers some 6 to 12 inches long. Flowering intensity varies from year to year with a profuse output every second to third year. In the fall, the leaves turn a mix of yellow, gold and orange. Quite a show! As you might expect, the nativar is a good source for pollinators, attracting a variety of butterflies and bees. Mature Yellowwoods In siting a Cladrastis kentuckea , do remember that it is a full-sized tree and should be spaced appropriately. It does best in full sun, in well-drained soil. It is quite tolerant of both acidic and alkaline soils. You might want to mulch heavily over winter for the first couple of years, as it is establishing itself in our bracing Minnesota climate. It looks great on a naturalized border. That’s something to consider if you have some woodland. Also, it is surprisingly tolerant of urban settings, although I’m not sure if it would be a candidate for your “hell strip” (what landscapers call the area between the sidewalk and street). Several cultivars of Yellowwood have been developed. “Perkins Pink” is a nice one with, as the name implies, pink rather than white flowers. A diminutive sister is “Kentucky Yellowwood”. This is a medium-sized tree suitable for ornamental gardens. It does, however, have the tendency to divide its trunk near the ground. This tendency seems to be widespread among the various Yellowwood strains. This bothers some folks although I think it imparts a distinctive character to the tree. Spring flowers of yellowwood So, if you are looking for a luxuriant, summer shade tree that puts on a show each spring and fall, consider Yellowwood. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota (1,2)

< Back Our State Soil: Lester If you have ever planted anything in the ground, or even just dug a hole, you know how our soil can vary depending on where we live. As a gardener, it is likely you have had your soil tested and amended your soil to provide optimal growing conditions for your plants. Here in Minnesota, mother nature amended some soil on a very large scale and deposited about 400,000 acres of it across 17 counties, perfect for growing crops like corn, soybeans, and alfalfa, right in the heart of our state. Click here to get the dirt on Lester, our state soil. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener It’s 2012, and Lester, named after Lester Prairie, Minnesota where it was first acknowledged, is about to be named the state soil of Minnesota. Sen. Rod Skoe, DFL-Clearbrook, summed it up with, “Maybe with this [vote], we’ll stop treating our soil like dirt.” After all, it’s easy to take for granted what’s under our feet. But without soil, clean water and air, we literally can’t live. And by the way, to get right down to the nitty gritty, soil and dirt are not the same thing. Dirt is just that, dirt. It’s what you get on your hands or wipe off the floor. Soil, on the other hand, is a living ecosystem. Let’s dig in and learn what is so special about Lester soil and how it came to be designated as the “Official Minnesota State Soil” by Minnesota Governor Mark Dayton on April 28, 2012. It all began about 10,000 years ago when glaciers were sliding south across Minnesota, depositing rocks, pebbles, sand, and other materials along the way. After the ice melted, plants began to grow on the material left behind by the glaciers. The cycle had begun. Plants would grow, die, and become organic matter to nourish new plants that would grow, die, and support the next generation of plants. Forests and prairies eventually grew up and spread across the land. The roots from grasses and trees worked their way through the rocks and pebbles further breaking them down while water flowed into the soil dissolving minerals that had been deposited during the glacial period. The decaying leaves and grass from the forests and prairies added to the layers, called horizons, and continued to increase the fertility of this nutrient rich soil. In addition, the glacial moraines where the soil formed provided well-drained conditions adding to the ideal properties of the soil. In 1985, the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists put together a task force to select a soil to represent Minnesota. In 1987 they voted to recommend Lester as the state soil because they recognized the significance of this resource. It took a while for Lester to gain its status as the official state soil however. There is always competition with other groups, often schoolchildren, pushing for designations of various state symbols. But finally, after the blueberry muffin became a symbol and the black bear didn’t, and just in time for the Smithsonian exhibit “Dig It!” to arrive in Minnesota, with Lester featured as the state soil, and coinciding with the University of Minnesota celebrating its 100-year anniversary, and 40 years of the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists – phew! - Lester became official. From the Smithsonian State Soils exhibit Having a state soil provides unique opportunities for education about this precious resource, especially since agriculture is extremely important to the Minnesota economy. As we have learned, soil is one of the basic necessities to support life and we need to care for it. We can’t control drought, but we can control how we plant, protect our resources, and share our knowledge. typical landscape where Lester soil is found Resources for this article: https://www.startribune.com/hot-dish-politics-new-state-soil-is-a-standout/150303445/ https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/mn-state-soil-booklet.pdf https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/young_naturalists/young-naturalists-article/soil/soil-health.pdf https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institute ( http://forces.si.edu/ ) (1), Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf (2), Smithsonian Institute ( https://forces.si.edu/SOILS/interactive/statesoils/html/State-Soils/Default.aspx?selection=Minnesota ) (3)

< Back What’s the Buzz about Bee Lawns? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener You may have heard about bee lawns on the news or from a friend or at a county park. And, you may be wondering what that is and why you might want to plant one in your yard. Read this article about bee lawns to help you decide if planting one is right for you. Annual Red Clover Did you know that about 1/3 of the plant-based foods that humans eat are insect pollinated? But pollinators are in trouble due to habitat loss, pesticides and parasites. Butterflies, wasps, flies, soldier beetles, and moths are also in jeopardy. A pollinator lawn provides the high-quality nutrition that pollinators need to survive. A bee lawn can attract over 50 species of bee! A bee lawn integrates low-growing flowering perennials with grasses. They require fewer pesticides, less fertilizer, water and mowing than a traditional lawn. Grasses in bee lawns can include grasses already present in your lawn, but, adding fine fescues and Buffalo grass will reduce the number of mowings needed per year and make the lawn more drought tolerant. “Strong creeping red fescue,” “slender creeping red fescue,” “chewings fescue,” “hard fescue” and “sheep fescue” can be grown with other cool-season grasses in full sun to shaded areas. Red Fescue Another alternative to cool-season grasses are sedges. However, they don’t take as well to mowing. Pennsylvania sedge grows to about 6”. Pennsylvania Sedge White clover springs to mind when thinking of bees, but there are several other good candidates that will spread out the flowering season from spring through fall. “Self-Heal” (Prunella) and “creeping thyme” and “birds foot trefoil” are non-natives that should not be planted near a wild area, but can be used in urban areas. “Ground plum,” “sweet white violets” and “common blue violets” are native alternatives. Self-Heal and Creeping Thyme Bee lawns can be treated similarly to lightly-used traditional lawns. They can be mowed (or not) at 3” or higher and take light foot traffic. Some examples of good places to plant bee lawns are: boulevards, steep slopes, primarily aesthetic areas, rights of way and easements. There are at least two ways to plant bee lawns. One is to start with bare soil (be aware that this area will have a “seed bank” of weeds.) and the other is to overseed. In certain cases, plugs might be a better choice. Click here for information on planting a bee lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn And here are some additional sites to help you get started on your bee lawn: Here is a site to find bee lawn seed: https://turf.umn.edu/lawn-info/purchasing-seed/bee-lawn-seed Click here to get signage for your lawn: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2021-05/Lawns%20to%20Legumes%20yard%20signs_Final_Single_2020_edits_smalllink_new_0.pdf Click here to see the Lawn to Legumes site and apply for a grant to help with expenses: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/l2l Here is a webinar discussing the ins and outs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEiEoSC60Ss Your lawn can “Bee” the change! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,2,3), University of Minnesota Extension (4,5)

< Back So, You Want to Grow Your Own Apples! Gardeners have an old saying – “Right plant, right place”! It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Read this article to learn more and start visualizing those delicious apples! Marjory Blare, Master Gardener It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Before you start: Step 1 : Apple trees need two varieties to fruit. The second tree can be a crabapple that blooms at the same time as your tree. Step 2 : Evaluate the place you want to plant your apple tree(s). A. Does it get at least 6 hours (preferably 8) of full sun? B. Does it drain well? C. Is there enough room for the mature tree? Step 3 : Research cultivars before you got to a nursery. A. Any tree smaller than a standard is going to be grafted onto a rootstock that will determine the mature size. B. A standard size tree can grow between 20 and 30 feet tall. You will need 26 square feet. C. A semi-dwarf tree will be between 14 and 22 feet tall. It will need an area of about 20 square feet. D. Dwarf trees grow between 6 and 12 feet and need an area of about 14 feet square. A super-dwarf tree will need staking its entire life. E. For best pollination, make sure both cultivars are hardy in zone 4 and that the bloom time is the same. F. For more on root stocks: https://apples.extension.org/understanding-apple-tree-size-dwarf-semi-dwarf-and-standard/ One-year-old graft Super-dwarf rootstock Four-year-old graft semi-dwarf rootstock] Ten-year-old graft super-dwarf rootstock Step 4 : After you have a few cultivars in mind, it’s off to the nursery A. Make sure you have a good way to transport your tree(s). B. Cushion the branches and trunk when tying it down. C. The nursery may wrap the tree’s canopy for you, or you can cover it with a well tied-down tarp. D. Drive slowly, you don’t want the foliage to get wind-whipped. https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/files/best-planting-practices.pdf Step 5 : Prepare the planting site before you take the tree out of its container. Have water and back-fill ready. Water the back-fill when the hole is half full and again when it’s full. It’s good to have a slight mound around the hole to help direct the water. If necessary, have staking supplies ready. Step 6 : Planting your tree(s) A. Bare-root stock: this allows you to spread out the roots and easily make sure there are no stem-girdling roots. Stem-girdling roots grow around the trunk and as they increase in size, they can strangle the trunk. You can buy bare-root or wash the soil off a (smaller) container-grown tree. B. Container-grown stock: make sure to cut any stem-girdling roots and roots above the trunk flare (the bottom of the trunk gets wider before the roots start). https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-and-transplanting-trees-and-shrubs#container-grown-1399864 C. Ball-and-burlap stock: make sure you have help or hire someone to plant the tree. Again, inspect the trunk where it meets the soil ball to look for stem girdling roots. Step 7 : Check here https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples , for advice on aftercare, pest management and harvesting and storage. Happy growing! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Junior Winter Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. CALLING ALL JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. NOTE: Adults can help guide, or work together with, their child through this project. Utilize the books mentioned later in this article to reinforce the information from this article and to assist younger children in learning the concepts. Junior Winter Garden Detectives - Let’s find out where birds, common Minnesota animals, turtles, frogs and insects live in Minnesota winters. Some creatures migrate, or move, to a warmer part of the world in late summer or fall. Many others remain here in Minnesota. But, where are they all? Often, they are not so easy to see. By READING the clues from the information below, you will be able to solve the case of the hiding winter creatures by looking in your own backyard or neighborhood park. THE CLUES BIRDS - When the cold and wind of a Minnesota winter settles in, watch for birds to make a roost and group together in the holes of trees, next to trees or a thicket of pines . Insect eating birds fly South for the winter so they can eat insects from open water in warmer climates. The remaining birds can survive on the seeds, berries and garden waste found in our yards and parks during the cold weather. Sometimes people leave seed in bird feeders to help these birds survive during the cold days. Just like humans, birds keep warm with their down coat; that is, their feathers. Some common Minnesota winter birds are cardinals, finches, blue jays and woodpeckers. DEER AND SQUIRRELS - Look around and you will see many animals, including deer and squirrels, in your local landscape. Deer stay active and hang out by stands, or groups, of pine trees . These trees, called conifers, keep their needles all year round so snow can easily collect on their branches and keeps the forest floor warm and dry underneath for a cozy gathering spot. The common gray squirrel can be seen occasionally popping out from their nests in tree cavities or leaf and piles collected from trees in the fall and thickened by moss. You can view the squirrels scampering around nearby their nests to retrieve the food they hoarded in the fall, foraging on pine cone seeds, or stealing from the bird feeder in your yard. TURTLES AND FROGS - Keep a sharp eye open for turtles hibernating, or sleeping all winter, at the bottom of a pond or lake, digging themselves into the mud of the water's bottom , where the temperature stays warmer and more stable than up at the top of the water's surface. Frogs can be found in two different areas, depending on the type: 1. Aquatic frogs hibernate in the water near the bottom of the stream or pond where they breathe oxygen from the water through their skin; and, 2. Tree and wood frogs become dormant under leaves and plants from the past growing season in our garden and then freeze solid for the winter months. These frogs’ bodies use a special process where a natural antifreeze, called glycerol, keeps their organs from fully freezing . Carefully look under some leaf piles and you might see a frog that looks dead but really is just temporarily frozen. How is this possible?! All good detectives verify their clues--see below for more information on this special antifreeze process. INSECTS - Minnesota insects survive winter by migrating, by tolerating the cold or by avoiding the cold. Monarch butterflies migrate 3,000 miles to the warm south. The Banded Woolly Bear caterpillar tolerates the cold by becoming dormant underneath leaf litter and a blanket of snow, similar to the tree and wood frogs, after producing special antifreeze called glycero l, which keeps its cells from bursting when they freeze. (See the scientific process below). Bees hibernate in winter in one of three ways: in the ground, in flower stem cavities or, for bumble bee Queens, under leaves and brush. Most bees in Minnesota are ground nesters who burrow into bare soil to stay warm in winter and lay eggs for spring. Look for a small ¼-½ hole for a tunnel in the soil without a lot of plant cover to get a glimpse of where a bee might be in its winter slumber. You will need to wait until spring before you see a bee emerge! Some other bees take winter shelter and lay eggs in the hollow of flower stems . A garden left for a spring cleanup, instead of in the fall, will reveal hollow stems where flowers once were. Imagine bees and their eggs resting, safe from the harsh winter conditions. Bumble bee queens prefer to tuck into leaves or brush left in the garden, often near pollinator plants. The workers have died in the fall, while the Queens are left to start new colonies in the spring. READ READ these children’s books to do additional detective work with your child to see how creatures live in winters. Winter Dance by Marion Dane Bauer, tells about a red fox's discovery of how to live in the winter while learning about what some other creatures do for homes in the winter. Available at the Dakota County libraries. ISBN: 9780544313347 or, buy at Amazon : Over and Under the Snow by Kate Messner and art by Christopher Silas Neal, takes you along a cross country ski family adventure to what creatures are out and about in the winter. Available at Dakota County library. ISBN: 9780811867849, or buy through Amazon : DO EVIDENCE: WHAT IS IT LIKE FOR THE FROG AND BANDED WOOLLY BEAR CATERPILLAR TO HAVE ANTIFREEZE Once you gather all your clues, every good detective verifies the clues. Our clues show an amazing antifreeze process for tree and wood frogs and the banded woolly bear caterpillar, which allows these critters to live in the Minnesota winter. Using your detective skills, let’s do the following experiment to see what the antifreeze is like in the frogs and caterpillars. Supplies Any Gelatin Hot water from tap (not boiling), amount used in gelatin instructions Small paper cups (or small ziplock bags) Tablespoon Directions Follow the instructions to prepare the gelatin, but using warm water (not boiling). Fill a paper cup with about 1 tablespoon of the prepared gelatin. Put the cup in the freezer for about 20 minutes. (The antifreeze process for frogs occurs in about 20 minutes). When the time has elapsed, take the cup out of the freezer. You will notice the gelatin is part frozen, part liquid. The mixture is similar to the liquid in the organs of these creatures that stays cold but not frozen so they can survive being dormant in the winter. SOLVE THE CASE: FIND THE ANIMALS The last step for Junior Winter Garden Detectives is to find the animals or their homes outside! Put on your winter boots or snowshoes and go search to solve the case. Make notes on the checklist provided below or make a photo journal of the winter garden homes you find. JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVE CHECKLIST Check off the creatures you see outside. For the critters that go dormant, use your imagination and find a spot that might be their winter home. Note: Since they are trying to stay warm, it might take a few visits outside before you complete the list. Optional: list where you see them or take a photograph. 1.Birds 2. Deer 3. Squirrels 4. Turtles 5. Aquatic Frogs 6. Tree and wood frog 7. Banded Woolly Bear Caterpillar 8. Bees- A. Ground Nester B. Flower Stem Cavities C. Bumble Bee Queens SOURCES How Do Critters Survive Minnesota Winters https://www.southwestjournal.com/voices/livin-thing/2019/01/how-do-critters-survive-minnesota-winters How Evergreens Provide a Winter Oasis for Wildlife https://www.plt.org/educator-tips/evergreens-winter-wildlife/ Common Winter Birds in Central Minnesota https://www.friendsofthewildflowergarden.org/pages/seasonal/birdswinter.html How Do Frogs Survive Winter? Why Don't They Freeze to Death? https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-do-frogs-survive-wint/ Woolly Bears in the Snow https://carpenternaturecenter.org/woolly-bears-in-the-snow/ Give Bees a Chance: Fall Cleanup for Pollinators https://www.anokamastergardeners.org/blog/give-bees-a-chance-fall-cleanup-for-pollinators Minnesota Master Naturalist Explorers Winter Curriculum https://www.minnesotamasternaturalist.org/docs/Explorers/Winter_curriculum_.pdf Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9), Donald Lorr (8)

< Back Azaleas - a beautiful addition to the garden Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Azalea shrubs are a beautiful addition to the garden. The University of Minnesota developed a winter hardy azalea – ‘Northern Lights’ - which is now available in many different colors. In this article, you will learn how to care for azaleas, some of the lore about them, and why you will want them in your yard. Azaleas make a wonderful splash of color in mid-spring! Azaleas are flowering shrubs in the Rhododendron family. All azaleas are rhododendrons but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. The key differences are bloom time, growth habit and appearance. The most popular azalea for Minnesota is the ‘Northern Lights’ azalea. It was developed at the University of Minnesota by Albert Johnson and was the first azalea to flower prolifically after minus 40° winters. Its introduction led to the development of many other colors after Albert Johnson’s death. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/azalean/31/2/articles/Northern_Lights_Azaleas.pdf Azaleas need at least 4 hours of dappled sunlight, but in northern climates they can sometimes take almost full sun. It is extremely important that they have a soil pH of <5.5 that drains well. Fertilize in late winter or early spring. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so, the best time to prune is just after flowering. Azaleas need a sheltered area protected from icy winter winds, not a hot area next to the house. Don’t cultivate around azaleas because it will damage their shallow fibrous roots. The Woodland-Azalea Garden at the UMN Landscape Arboretum features many of the Northern Lights series of azaleas. All over the MN Landscape Arboretum in general, you can see Albert Johnson’s original pink-flowered ‘Northern Lights’. The series is known the world-over for varied colors and flower-bud hardiness - an achievement that took two decades. Historically, azaleas have been associated with various emotions and symbols. Generally, they are said to represent good qualities, such as: Temperance – the Victorians often carried a bloom if they supported the prohibition of alcohol. Emotional evenness. Passion that is still developing and fragile. Despite being overwhelmingly associated with positive qualities, Azaleas have a dark side as they are also associated with death threats-but only when sent in a black vase! This link may have occurred because in sufficient quantity, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. https://www.flowermeaning.com/azalea-flower-meaning/ Azaleas are susceptible to some pests including: aphids, scale, thrips and Azalea sawflies. Azalea woes? Try University of Minnesota Extension’s publication: ‘What’s wrong with my plant?’ Check out this University of Minnesota Extension site for more information on, and to identify, Sawfly larvae. Pest Control: ‘Pick and Plunk’- picking sawfly larvae and plunking them into a bucket of soapy water. Squishing the insects - not for the squeamish. A strong jet of water. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Azadirachtin and spinosad are effective for 1-2 weeks. Sawflies that feed on treated foliage are affected. These products have little impact on other insects. Residual pesticides include permethrin, bifenthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and carbaryl and are most effective against young larvae. One application is usually sufficient. Follow the label instructions exactly and the timing must minimize contact with pollinators. Note: Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk) is specific to caterpillars and does NOT kill sawfly larvae. These are some other hardy azaleas: Roseshell Azalea, zones 3-8, 4’-8’ x 4’-8’ one of the parents of the Northern Lights series Compact Korean Azalea, zones 4-8, 2-4’ x 2-4’ Lavender pink Pinxterbloom Azalea , native to the eastern United States and hardy to zone 4. This is the perfect time to plan to add azaleas to your landscape! P.S. Don’t forget a soil test in the spring to help determine how to amend your soil! https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ Photo Credits: Photo 1: Pixabay.com (public domain) Photos 2-7: Marjory Blare

< Back Common Milkweed (Asclepius syriaca): An Uncommon Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener If a plant has adapted to its environment such that it is easily grown, it often suffers the fate of being called “common”. That is a disservice to Asclepius syriaca or “common milkweed”, which is anything but “common”. Indeed, its value to pollinators is uncommonly great. It attracts hordes of butterflies and other pollinators. Read this article to learn more about this important staple in pollinator gardens. Along with closely related members of the family Asclepiadaceae, it is the sole host plant for the imperiled Monarch Butterfly. Asclepius syriaca is a source of food and a host for Monarch larvae and caterpillars. Its late spring to summer flowering presents popcorn balls of fragrant pink-purple blooms which grace any garden. If you’re looking for Asclepius syriaca, you should know that it is also known as silkweed, Virginia silkweed, common silkweed, showy milkweed, cotton weed, wild cotton and swallow-wort. Obviously, it gets around! common milkweed; Photo credit: USDA Common milkweed is native to most of the Eastern and Central North America and is found throughout Minnesota. Its origins in prairies and savannas dictate that it be grown in full sun to, at most, partial shade. Reflecting its prairie origins, it has a long taproot and thus is difficult to transplant. However, it grows easily from seed but can be aggressive in beds. If that is the case, it is easily pulled up and will not regrow from any root left behind. (Would that weeds were that obliging!) As you might imagine, Asclepius syriaca looks best in natural landscapes. In beds it will usually grow to about 3 feet. Without competition in good soil, it can reach 5 or 6 feet. In late spring, common milkweed produces 4-inch-wide balls of flowers, initially pink-purple. As the bloom ages the color gradually transmutes to an orange-pink. The fragrance is pleasant but distinctive. In late summer to fall, the plant will form chubby horn-like seed pods containing copious, fluffy seeds. They will open from early fall to November. If you wish to propagate plants, collect the seeds and give a go at germination. Remember to stratify them by putting them in the fridge in a moist environment for about a month to stimulate germination. I usually put the seeds in with a moist coffee filter in a Ziploc sandwich bag. Then, after a spell in the cold, start them indoors in January. You’ll have some great plants ready to go for spring planting, around May in central Minnesota. So, by all means add a bit of milkweed to your property. Perhaps a Monarch will stop by to say thanks! Seed pods at maturity; Photo credit: Cornell College of Agriculture

< Back Native Grasses for the Home Landscape Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Native grasses, sedges and flowers can be stunning at any scale; from vast prairie to small garden. In addition to the visual appeal, they provide essential habitat for many native insects and birds. The vegetation of the mesic prairie ecosystems that once covered much of southern and western Minnesota included a profusion of flowering plants and grasses. These resilient plants adapted to survive cold winters, hot summers, flood and drought and are still excellent choices for most of Minnesota. This article shares the benefits of and considerations for making native grasses a part of your landscape. Benefits of Native Grasses Long lived perennials Drought tolerant and soil stabilizers; due to deep root systems Enhanced soil; fibrous roots slough off and break down into organic matter Food source for wildlife; butterflies, skippers, birds Shelter for native insects, including butterflies, moths and bees Structural; support other plants Competitive with weeds Characteristics of Native Grasses Primarily warm season grasses; grow in late spring and flower in the hot summer Either clump or running growth habit Wind pollinated; flowers are small, do not need to attract pollinators Arrangement and branching patterns of florets in the seedhead (aka grass inflorescence) determine how grasses are identified, named, and classified Clump (Blue Grama) Inflorescence (Side Oats Grama) Design considerations for your site: What are your goals? Are there any restrictions at your site? What are your water and soil conditions? Some grasses are more suited to sandy, dry, high ground while some tolerate more wet conditions. Do you prefer a formal or informal design? A formal garden generally takes more space so the plants can show their full shape and allow for layering of heights from front to back. Formal (Noerenberg Memorial Gardens) Informal (Mendota Heights Victoria Road) Do you prefer a mix of textures and shapes or a uniform look? The clump form grows outward slowly so is less aggressive and good for mixes while the running growth habit is beneficial if you want a single grass to fill in a space for a functional purpose, for example to stabilize a slope or create a mow-able lawn. Short to medium height grasses are suited to locations with limited space where visibility and minimal spreading is desirable. Preferred grasses are generally shorter, of clump form, include visual interest from color and/or interesting seed heads, and mix well with low growing prairie flowers. Prairie Dropseed is widely adapted to soils ranging from dry, sandy and rock outcrops to low, wet mesic habits. It is an elegant clump form, at 2-4’ height. The nativar “tara’ is shorter in form at 24-30”. See Reference #1 for more information. Prairie Dropseed - fine foliage and inflorescence in summer Little Bluestem is an iconic species of Minnesota prairies that prefers loose, well-drained soil. Grows in clump form, at 2-4’ high. Host plant for several native butterflies, skippers. Showy, bright red in fall with shiny silver seedheads. Little Bluestem - bluish foliage in summer Blue Grama does well in dry, sand to loam soil, not clay. Clump form at height of 12-30”.Horizontal seed heads provide interest. See Reference #1 for more information. Side Oats Grama is related, a bit taller at 2-3’ height, different inflorescence. Junegrass does well in very dry, sandy soils. It is short, compact and upright at 2-3’ and mixes well with low-growing prairie flowers. A cool season grass; grows in early spring, flowers and sets seed late spring or early summer. Tall Native Grasses are generally not recommended for home gardens as they may overtake flowers over time but they can be a feature, screen or backdrop for other plants where more space is available and/or height is desirable. Big Bluestem is found throughout Minnesota. Grows in sand, loam, clay soil. It is tall at 8’, upright and open. It tends to self-sow and dominate and is subject to ‘lodging’ (falling over). Several nativars with different growing habits and color are available. See Reference #1 for more information. Indian Grass is found throughout Minnesota and does well in dry to moist soils (sand, loam, clay) with a height of 5-7’. It is medium aggressive and tends to self sow. It has a good upright form with golden seedheads, looks great with little bluestem and medium to tall flowers at the back of a border or garden. If you haven’t considered native grasses for your landscape before, it may be time to reconsider. Native grasses can be a stunning addition to your pollinator friendly garden. References Benefits of Native Grasses ; explained in three short informative videos by University of MN Extension Professor and Horticulturist Mary Meyer. On the same page as above; Free downloadable book “Gardening with Native Grasses in Cold Climates” by Diane M. Harem and Mary Hockenberry Meyer, includes information on grasses and flowers that together provide for the complete lifecycle of one or more Lepidoptera. UMN Extension Planting and maintaining a prairie garden . Numerous links on selecting Native Plants . Book “The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants” by Neil Diboll & Hilary Cox, copyright 2023, the University of Chicago Press. DNR Mesic Prairie . Native Plant Encyclopedia ; focus is on lakeshore management but also a way to look up distribution of native plants in the state. Minnesota Wildflowers ; a guide to the flora of MN. Sites to visit Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Specialty Gardens ; Ornamental Grass Collection. Current Projects at Dakota County Parks . Noerenberg Memorial Gardens in Wayzata. Many native and other grasses in a formal garden setting. Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1-7)

< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees By Douglas W. Tallamy, Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2021 Oak trees. Who doesn’t love this bold and majestic tree species in our landscape. In addition to their beauty, oak trees contribute mightily to the health of our environment. To learn more about the mighty oaks, read Douglas Tallamy’s excellent book, ”The Nature of Oaks.” Reviewed by Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Did you know that the seeds we religiously put out for the birds each winter provide scant nourishment for most species? A few, such as doves and finches, are granivores and do just fine. Most birds, however, are insectivores and depend on this supplementation even in winter. So where do all our avian friends get “three hots” in the cold months? Surprisingly, a substantial portion of their winter diet comes from caterpillar stages tucked into the bark of many tree species native to North America. Of these, the oaks are the most efficient in providing larval feed for our feathered friends. Professor Douglas Tallamy provides an in-depth and fascinating account of the massive niche occupied by the various species of oak in the ecology of North America. Tallamy records the activities of the oaks and their many visitors from month to month throughout the year. In addition to being a winter-feeding station for birds, oaks serve numerous insect species as a refuge and feeding reservoir allowing them to complete their varied life cycles and integrate into the complex web of life in the North American woods. Their extensive root system stabilizes the soil and effectively combats erosion. In short, oaks support more life forms and interactions than any other tree species in our northern hemisphere. These giants form a keystone upon which so much of forest life depends. In addition to demonstrating the vital role played by oaks in our ecology, the author provides a useful guide as to which species of oak do best in the varying environments of the US as well as helpful hints in planting and nurturing these invaluable species.

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)