< Back Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens, but as the Finns say, “You plan ahead beforehand”. Indeed, we are going to spend the next six months talking about a variety of native evergreens, welcome additions of green to our prolonged white winter landscapes. Of these various evergreens, balsam fir is a frequent forest highlight in central to northern Minnesota. It is native from Minnesota east to Maine and south into the Appalachians as far as West Virginia. It ranges from 45 to 70 feet in height, occasionally sprinting up to 90 feet. It has a distinctive narrow conic crown of long dark green needle-like leaves. Balsam fir will form 1 ½ to 3-inch seed cones which are long and dark purple, turning brown before dispersing its seeds in September. It is a member of the pine family (Pinaceae) and is the traditional Christmas tree. So, beware if your neighbor is spotted on your property in early December with an ax. If you wish to add some winter green to your landscape with balsam fir, make sure your climate is suitable. Balsam fir prefer cooler weather, ideally with a mean annual temperature of 40 degrees F. Practically speaking this means central to Northern Minnesota. Further south, make sure to protect it from the summer heat. Planting in moist well-drained soil on the north or east side of buildings would be a good idea. Balsam fir in the White Mountains] This penchant for shady, cooler areas can be helpful planting in otherwise difficult north or east courtyards, creating a cool, afternoon shaded site in the warmer months. Balsam fir’s ornamental aspects are substantive. The needles are pleasantly aromatic, soft, dark green, having a silver underside. The tree does tolerate partial shade well. If you are not looking for a 60-foot tree in your patio, Abies balsamea dwarf cultivars are available. They can serve as elegant evergreens for a cool, afternoon shade site, usually ranging in size from 3 to 6 feet. They can be used as a low screen or backdrop in difficult north or east facing courtyards. Check with your nursery for “Weeping Larry”, “Piccolo” or “Nana” cultivars of balsam fir. Needle like leaves of Abies balsamea Photo credits: Jeff Bisbe, treesandshrubsonline.org (1), www.treesandshrubsonline.org (2)

< Back The Label is the Law! Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or, at least, their looks. Your first inclination may be to turn to pesticides. But many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides and other potentially harmful chemical products. This article provides resources, tips and other valuable information that can be helpful in deciding how to handle your garden problems. This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or at least, their looks. Many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources, including this from the University of Minnesota Extension (UMN), that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides. The UMN recommends using the integrated pest management (IPM) methods for deciding the proper strategy for your yard. This diagram from the University of Massachusetts explains the IPM method. Pesticides Let’s talk a bit more about pesticides. Pesticide is an umbrella term, it covers insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, bactericides and rodenticides (Rodenticides can also kill animals that feed on the rodents). Pesticides can either kill on contact or after being absorbed into tissues (systemic). Many of the same precautions that are on pesticides are also on fertilizers. Check out the sites from the UMN and University of Massachusetts to learn more about chemical and non-chemical ways to control pests and diseases. Know what you are buying There are many different chemical products on the market, so it is vital to know what you are buying and how to use it. If you decide to use a chemical product, here are some tips and legalities. The label will list the species of plants, fungus, bacteria, rodents or insects it will control. Don’t expect it to kill creeping Charlie if that plant is not listed. Contact products such as insecticidal soaps, and horticultural oil (mineral oil) will only kill the insect if it directly contacts the insect. Systemic insecticides are applied to the plant, and any insect that feeds on the plant will die. There are fungicides and bactericides which protect the plant from diseases. For example, there are injections of a fungicide to protect elms from Dutch Elm Disease, and soil drenches or injections of insecticides to control Emerald Ash Borers. Each pesticide and fertilizer that you use is required to have a label to inform you: What P ersonal P rotective E quipment (PPE) you need to keep yourself safe. This can include but is not limited to; safety goggles, breathing masks, long sleeves and pants, footwear, chemical resistant gloves or even full-body coveralls with hood. The label will explain how to clean up yourself and your equipment after using it. Wash hands before and after going to the toilet. Wash any exposed clothing on the hottest wash cycle. It doesn’t hurt to run the washer through the ‘clean’ cycle afterwards. Proper storage and disposal practices Pay attention to precautionary statements Don’t spray during certain wind conditions and temperature ranges. If the temperature is above say, 80F, a sprayed pesticide can volatilize and drift onto non-targeted plants. If the wind is more than about 2-4 miles/hour, the pesticide can blow onto desirable plants. Don’t spray if rain is expected before the estimated drying time. If it runs off it will not affect the plant or insect, and can contaminate the water supply. Where NOT to apply it, (usually not near bodies of water, because it can be toxic to fish and invertebrates). And directions for use The rate of application. You must measure the area and do the math. How long before re-entry, or replanting. How to apply it, e.g. to the point of run-off, or otherwise. How often to apply it. Organic Pesticides and others Products that are labeled for use on organic produce aren’t always ‘safe’. If not used in accordance with the label they can kill your plants and may harm you and/or the environment. Please read the labels on organic pesticides carefully. The above photos are all from an organic pesticide. Homemade products don’t have labels to tell you how to use them safely. Happy and Safe Gardening this year! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,4,5), https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/integrated-pest-management/about (3)

< Back Buckthorn Removal Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn control is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, how can the home gardener attack this problem? The best time to find and remove buckthorn is in the fall and early spring. If you are lucky enough to have just a few small plants, you can pull the seedlings and check for new plants every year that may have taken root. For more established infestations, first remove all the berry producing buckthorn on your property as this limits the buckthorn’s ability to multiply. For larger infestations, you may want to remove the buckthorn in sections at a time. Buckthorn plants that are less than 2 inches in size can be removed by hand or by using an Uprooter or Root Talon. Plants greater than 2 inches in size should be cut at the soil surface using hand tools, chain saws, or brush cutters. Buckthorn that has been cut at the soil surface must be chemically treated or it will return with a vengeance. Chemical options include treating the stump immediately after cutting with Garlon 3A/Vastlan, Garlon 4, or other brush killers with triclopy or glyphosate (Roundup/Rodeo) to prevent re-sprouting. You can also try non-chemical treatment which includes covering the stump and flare with a tin can or black plastic. Use nails to affix the can or tie to affix the black plastic. If you’re treating buckthorn near water, use an herbicide labeled for aquatic use. For how and when to dispose of buckthorn, refer to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s “Guide to Removal and Disposal of Noxious Weeds in Minnesota.” Many compost sites will also accept buckthorn, but be sure to check with your county for suggestions on disposal. Controlled burning may be an option but will need to be done every 2-3 years. Some cities may haul away your cut buckthorn. Check with your city for their policies. Finally, buckthorn is a persistent uninvited plant. Even after removal, keep checking your garden for new sprouts and remove them immediately to avoid a larger infestation. There are many hardy and attractive native plants available to fill the areas where you have removed your buckthorn. For more information on buckthorn removal, click on the following links: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/buckthorn/control.html or Common buckthorn (umn.edu) Photo credits: Friends of the Park (1), Minnesota DNR (2), Deviant Art (3)

< Back Pruning Hydrangeas and Clematis Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? This article will help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? In this article I’ll help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. HYDRANGEAS When to prune hydrangeas depends on when it blooms. If the hydrangea blooms in late summer on new growth, pruning should take place in late winter or early spring before the shrub begins active growth. Some of the hydrangeas in this category include Limelight, Burgundy Lace and classic snowball types. Most other hydrangeas that bloom on old wood (growth from the previous year) should be pruned in summer after they’re done blooming. Pruning too soon increases the risk of cutting off dormant buds. Oakleaf, Big Leaf, Nikko Blue and other pink and blue flowering hydrangeas bloom from the previous year’s buds. If you want to maintain their size or shape, prune in summer before August. Ever-blooming hydrangeas such as Endless Summer also bloom on old and new wood and should also be pruned the same way. CLEMATIS Clematis pruning made simple. There are three groups of clematis. Group I is in the Red Category (red means stop) and blooms in early spring set on old wood from the previous year’s wood and doesn’t die back in winter. Pruning should be done sparingly. This category includes Pink Perfection, Spooneri and Pink Swing. Group II is in the Yellow Category (yellow means go slow) and grows on old wood in late spring/early summer, and on new wood in late summer or fall. This group should be given a light trim in March before it begins blooming. Remove dead wood and cut back remaining stems to 6-8”. This category includes Horn of Plenty, Patricia Ann Fretwell and Beautiful Bride. Group III is in the green category (green means go) and blooms on new wood in summer and dies off to the ground over winter. In March, prune all stems back to a strong set of buds 12” from the ground. This category includes Summer Snow, Prince William and Mississippi River. Stems of live and dead wood look alike. The leafy growth from the bud indicates a live vine. Always prune from the top down. Work down each vine until you find a live bud or growth and then stop once you find it. You can cut off all of last season’s growth to the ground; however, this results in a shorter plant, a few less flowers, and will bloom a little later. Happy pruning!! Below are a few great sites to visit for further information: University of Maryland Extension Guide to Pruning Hydrangeas | University of Maryland Extension ( umd.edu) Wayside Gardens Tips for Pruning Clematis l Wayside Gardens Spring Valley Nurseries Clematis Pruning Guide | Easy Clematis Care | Spring Hill Nurseries ( springhillnursery.com) Photo credits: Pat Cox (1), University of Maryland Extension (2), Kansas State Johnson County Research & Extension (3, 4)

< Back Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. The benefits of the cold will prevent the seed from germinating this year, leverage our Minnesota's natural freeze-thaw cycle of winters to work the seed into the soil, and allow the new grass seed to germinate very early in the spring when it is still wet and cold. Dormant seeding gives the lawn a head start next year before the summer heat and annual weeds emerge. Is this good for every lawn? This is great for sparse lawns, bare patches, and thin lawns that need to be thickened. It is not as effective if the lawn is already thick and dense as the seed needs good seed-to-soil contact. When to Dormant Seed the lawn? Timing is very important as grass seeds should not germinate this fall. If the seed germinate/sprout this fall, the immature seedlings may not survive the winter. The target is to apply the dormant seeds before the first major snowfall between mid/late October to mid-November when the temperature is too cold for germination. The seed must be put down while the ground is not frozen but is cold. Day time temperature should be around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit, and soil temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ** Tip : if the lawn is actively growing and being mowed, it is too early for dormant seeding. How to Dormant Seed - the steps: Select the desired grass seed: For Minnesota lawns look up options based on site conditions and maintenance on the UMN extension. (see additional resources below) An average Minnesota lawn may have a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and small amounts of perennial ryegrass. Prepare the lawn: Mow the existing lawn slightly lower than normal to approximately 2 inches in order to allow the seed to reach the soil. Loosen the soil surface so the seed can have easier seed to soil contact. Using a hand rake for small areas of bare or thin lawn is an option. For larger areas, a vertical mower, dethatcher, or scarifier is an option. Rake up any debris Spread the seed & ensure contact: Use the recommended rate for the grass seed and lightly incorporate it into the existing soil with a hand rake. Water lightly & thoroughly Water the area lightly and thoroughly after laying the seed. Do not water too much, the soil should be barely damp - between dry and damp. Only in extreme drought, is additional watering needed. Continuous watering is not needed until the seed germinate in the spring. What to expect in the Spring: The results of dormant seeding depend on Minnesota winter conditions. With more snowfall that can cover and protect the areas, the higher chance of success. Seedlings will germinate by late April and early May as the temperature warms. Be patient as it takes 10-14 plus days for grass to sprout. If the area is a little thin, give it some time and it is not unusual to have additional reseeding in the spring. Avoid heavy traffic on the young seedlings and consider fertilization to assist with lawn establishment Warning: Do not apply a pre-emergent weed preventer in the spring as it will prevent grass seed from germinating. Happy dormant seeding! For more information, please see links and resources below: Learn More here: Dormant Seeding: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding Dormant Seeding Bee Lawns: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dormant-seeding-bee-lawns#:~:text=Dormant%20seeding%20provides%20the%20best,soil%20moisture%20for%20germinating%20seeds Turfgrass Seed for Minnesota Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/buying-turfgrass-seed-minnesota-lawns Gall Dormant Seed: https://www.gertens.com/learn/fall-dormant-seeding#:~:text=Photo%20by%20the%20University%20of,your%20new%20seed%20will%20sprout . Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Find Plants for Tough Sites Have you ever fallen in love with a plant that you know in your brain won’t grow in your garden but your heart made you buy it anyway? You bought that sun-loving plant and planted it – full of hope - in your shady garden. Didn’t work out? Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. Fortunately, this article tells us about a resource that can help you find just the right plant for even tough garden sites. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Over my many years of gardening, one of the most important, yet difficult lessons that I seem to have to re-learn time and time again, is that a plant will thrive best if it is planted in a location where it gets the type of sun, moisture, and soil required for its species. It is so tempting fall in love with a sun-loving plant and convince yourself that you can make it grow in your garden – the one that is all shade. Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. For those of us whose gardens consist of poor soil conditions or natural landscape impediments, it is especially difficult to find plants that will be successful. So, how do you know which plants will thrive in your clay or sandy soil or on your steep backyard slope? Finding the right plants for your area can be challenging, but not impossible. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has produced a free, easy and thorough reference guide that can help you meet the challenge. Click on this link to access “The Best Plants for 30 Tough Sites,” written by Minnesota Master Gardeners and Extension Educators Mary Meyer, Deborah L. Brown, and Mike Zins. The reason why I like this guide so much is that it provides extensive lists of plants and their characteristics for those areas that can be limiting. Rather than waste money buying plants that do not fit your situation, use this guide to find plants that can grow successfully. The reference guide covers: Alkaline Soil Annuals 3 Feet or More Annual Vines That Grow Quickly Boulevard Gardens: Perennials and Small Trees Broadleaf Evergreens Clay Soil Cold Tolerant Annuals Compacted Sites: Trees Crevice Plants Deer Resistant Plants Dry Soil: Annual Foliage Plants, Shade or Under Trees and Trees Fragrant Annuals, Perennials, and Shrubs Indoor Low Light Knot Gardens Lakeshore Native Plants Long-Blooming Perennials Rain Garden Plants River Banks and Canoe Public Access Areas Self-Seeding Perennials Septic Mound Plants Shade: Shrubs, Small Trees, and Tall Perennials Steep Slopes Trees That Produce Minimal Litter Under a Black Walnut Tree While the guide does not show a picture of each plant, it does provide you with a place to start looking. I have used this guide many times and I hope it helps you find that perfect plant for your landscape. Photo Credit: learn.e-limu.org (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Ideengartencrimmitschau.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern September marks the beginning of fall and so it’s time to start planting. What? Spring bulbs, of course. Sure, you may be a bit weary of gardening this time of year but before you put your gardening tools away, take out that trowel one last time and plant some spring bulbs. Why plant spring blooming bulbs? After a long Minnesota winter, the flowers of spring bulbs provide a great wealth of color in a variety of flower and leaf designs - an unabashed welcome to spring against the monochromatic color of the final days of winter. When? There are different kinds of bulbs. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall of the previous year. Summer blooming bulbs are planted in the spring of the same year. This article will only focus on spring blooming bulbs, also known as hardy bulbs. Examples of hardy bulbs are tulips, daffodils, iris, crocus and lilies. The local garden centers will have a selection of spring blooming bulbs beginning this month. Now through October is the ideal time when you should plant these bulbs (although they can be planted until the first frost). Make sure the bulbs are clean and solid, without mold, rot, cuts and bruising. When healthy bulbs are properly planted and cared for, spring blooming bulbs will give you years of enjoyment. Tulip, daffodil, crocus bulbs Before you plant your spring bulbs, consider where to plant them in your garden. Begin by taking pictures of your flower gardens throughout the seasons and take note of the sun and shade exposure throughout the days. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant your bulbs as your existing plants progress through their own unique life cycles. Pictures will also aid in determining what plants to thin out and what plants to transplant along with spacing when the time is right. My annual red petunias had a happy southwest-facing summer taking a front row seat to my colorful perennials but will soon relinquish their small plot of soil. My bountiful hydrangea and Black Eyed Susans, swaying feather reed grass, and my prickly Japanese barberry will then become a beautiful backdrop to groupings of snowdrops and allium . Both will be the ideal height ranging from three to eight inches. (Note that there are different sizes of allium ranging from short to quite tall, so look closely before you buy.) Snowdrops will bloom as early as March and allium will follow in May giving time for their surrounding neighbors to grow into full fruition, blooming in all their glory from June through fall. It is always important to read the packaging to know how to plant the bulbs. Planting depths may range from three inches to twelve inches. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “[g]enerally, plant bulbs two to three times deeper than their diameter. This will vary with the type of soil.” If you want to do advance soil preparation, do a soil sample test of the area you will plant your bulbs. Keep in mind that the turnaround for results may take up to three weeks, so plan accordingly. This will give you time to shop for bulbs. After you have evenly spread the final layer of soil, watered thoroughly, laid chicken wire to ward off hungry squirrels and other wildlife, spread a layer of mulch, and labeled your plantings, take one final picture. Document your work so you can relish in the before and after pictures come next spring. During the stillness of the upcoming holiday months, you will be free to consider your color theme for annual hanging baskets or planters for the upcoming year ahead. You can also explore the possibility of summer blooming bulbs as you await with anticipation your spring bulbs in blooming color. REFERENCES: https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/annualsbulbs/bulbs-101 https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTXODhmkJS0 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,4,5), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Caring for Indoor Plants with Young Children Kristin Beardsley Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. Click here to discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. In this article, discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants. DO Materials: Place to work, can be a child-sized table, coffee table, plant stand, or the floor. Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Tray to carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Atomizer or spray bottle Cloth to catch drips Small watering can Several indoor plants Small brush and dustpan for clean-up (optional) Presentation Invite the child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left-handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Choose a plant and bring it to the workspace. It’s nice to tell the child what the plant is called or look at the tag if the plant is labeled. “Let’s mist the leaves. First, I will mist, then you can.” Pick up the atomizer, rest the atomizer on your non-dominant hand as you slowly place your fingers to mist. Hold the handle with your thumb and middle finger, then place your pointer finger on the top. Your pointer finger will push down to mist, keep your hands in this position to show your child a way they can be successful. This grip will help your child to strengthen their hand for holding pencils for writing. I model this, but my daughter isn’t able to do it yet, so she puts the atomizer on the table and pushes down with her palm. A spray bottle is also an easier option for younger children. Discuss how much water the plant needs and decide if it needs to be watered by feeling for moisture in the soil with a finger. Go fill the watering can. Show the child how to carry the watering can with one hand on the handle and one holding the cloth on the spout to decrease spills. When you go to water the cloth can be lowered and then can come back up to catch drips. Look for any spills and dry with the cloth and invite the child to water. Invite the child to water as many plants as they like and show them how to put everything away when they are done. You might need a small brush and dustpan to pick up any spilled soil. Extension for a Younger Child: Leaf Dusting It might be nice to introduce leaf dusting first as an introduction to caring for indoor plants, and it is accessible for a younger child. It feels great to see a dusty leaf look clean and shiny again. Choose a special cloth to be the designated leaf duster or make a leaf duster out of wool with a little handle, and choose a dish for the duster to sit in. When you go to present leaf dusting to your child bring the duster and plant to a workspace. Place one hand under the leaf and show how to dust the leaf from base to tip with 2-3 strokes. Dust a few leaves and then invite the child to dust. Only plants with smooth leaves can be dusted. Extension for an Older Child: Pruning Older children can also prune dead leaves while caring for indoor plants. Keep a small child size pruner in a dish. Show how to safely open the pruner and explain how we never touch the blade; it is very sharp. Locate and prune dead leaves and place them in the dish. Safely close the pruner before setting it down. Discard the leaves in the dish. Things to Consider when Presenting Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. Plants may be overwatered and over pruned. Have a big towel ready for spills and only offer plants that you are okay getting a fun new look. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. Focusing on your hands will help the child to be successful. Avoid praising the child and instead use phrases that acknowledge what they have achieved, like “You watered the plant,” when appropriate. Read Create a book for your child with all the plants in your home. Include the plants common name, scientific name, and how much water and light it needs. To assist a child who is not yet reading include a photo of each plant along with symbols to represent water and sun needs. Then place a sweet little tag with each plant including the name and symbols for how much water and sun it needs. This will allow your developing child to find a proper location for the plant to thrive and water it appropriately.

< Back Potentilla - A Hardy, Cold-Loving Workhorse Shrub Jim Lakin, MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Potentilla is a beautiful and useful native shrub. You may be familiar with the many cultivars of Potentilla that are on the market. But the native Potentilla has benefits that the cultivars do not. Read this article about the qualities of native Potentilla that may make it appealing for your garden. Dasiphora fruticose is known by a several common names: Potentilla , Shrubby or Bush Cinquefoil, Golden Hardhack, Shrubby Fivefinger, Widdy, Tundra Rose and Kuril Tea. Also, it is marketed as a number of attractive cultivars. The native, species plant is a quite hardy shrub doing nicely as far north as Zone 2. Thus, it is native to the cool temperate and subarctic regions of the northern hemisphere, often growing at high altitudes in mountains. It does wonderfully well and is long-lived in central Minnesota. Your author has had a fine patch with southern exposure which has done very well for over 30 years. Potentilla is a deciduous native perennial which grows to 3 to 4 feet being 4 to 5 feet wide. It is a member of the rose family, Rosaceae and produces a multitude of showy yellow flowers in summer into the early fall. It grows well in both clay and sandy soils. This could be a consideration for many parts of the Twin Cities. It will tolerate drought but does best in moist soils. In the wild it congregates in swampy, moisture-retentive soils. It will tolerate part shade, but does much better in full sun, especially if you want abundant flowering in summer. Potentilla is both deer and rabbit resistant. So, if you have “critter” problems, this would be a good choice for border, hedge or foundation planting. Potentilla will spread by rhizomes (underground runners) so it can invade adjacent beds. If it is acting as a woodland border plant, mowing will control spread. Potentilla as a flowering hedge The native is known to attract butterflies and is pollinator friendly. Data on pollinator attraction is scarce on the cultivars of Potentilla such as “Crème brulé”, “Marmalade” and “Happy Face”. There are over 130 named cultivars! As a general rule, they tend not to be as ecologically friendly as the native plant. You pay a price for a pretty face! Since Potentilla is hardy, disease resistant and low maintenance it is found in a wide variety of industrial and commercial plantings. If you are looking for such a ‘happy camper” for your landscape project, this would be a great choice. Photo credits: Walter Siegmund, Wikpedia (1), Oregon State University (2)

< Back Garden Myths Exposed Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In the Garden Buzz, we support research-based information from reliable sources like the Minnesota and other state Extension Services, all of which are supported by the research universities in their state. Departments of Natural Resources, which also exist in every state, are another reliable source of science-based information. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. MOTHBALLS KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE GARDEN False - Through a process called sublimation, mothballs slowly convert from a solid into a gas that repels moths, not rabbits or other undesirable wildlife. Using mothballs in a way not specified by the label is also illegal and can harm people, pets, and the environment. PLACING GRAVEL OR POT SHARDS IN THE BOTTOM OF A PLANT CONTAINER WILL INCREASE DRAINAGE False - Rocks or shards in the bottom of pots can block or restrict water drainage because they reduce the size of the drainage hole. Water has difficulty moving from fine-grained soil (such as potting mix) to coarser material (such as gravel or pot shards). The water must saturate the fine-grained material before moving on. The best course is to fill the entire pot with high-quality planting mix. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) LAWNS ARE LOW MAINTENCE False - Lawns are maintenance hogs. To keep your lawn looking good, you must water, mow, fertilize, edge, aerate, and weed. And that's just the beginning. You will also need to trap underground varmints, repair sprinkler heads, (assuming you have a sprinkler system - worse if you don’t - hauling out the hose and repositioning your sprinkler is time consuming and guaranteed to drench you) and seed or patch bare spots. That sound you hear? It's your shrubs laughing at all the time you spend babying that water-guzzling grass. Moral: plant more shrubs or replace your grass with ground cover. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) CRACKING AN EGG UNDER YOUR TOMATO PLANT SUPPLIES NEEDED NUTRIENTS Maybe but not the best practice - Some people bury whole eggs or crushed eggshells in the soil when planting tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. The theory is that the eggs provide extra calcium to the plants. While some gardeners swear by this method, scientific evidence does not support its effectiveness. While the calcium from eggshells will eventually leach into the soil, it may take some time to break down completely. Whole eggs buried in the soil could also attract pests like rodents or raccoons who may dig up your plants to access the eggs . Instead, focus on overall soil health. Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and beneficial microbes, will provide a much more consistent and reliable source of nutrients for your tomato plants. (University of Minnesota Extension; University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) SOAP WILL KILL GARDEN PESTS True and false - Dish soap can kill small, soft-bodied insects like aphids and white flies but does nothing for insects with hard shells, like Japanese beetles. To be effective, the soapy water needs to not only to touch the insect but also coat the insect's body. This means turning over leaves to reach insects on the underside of leaves. (MN Extension Service; Colorado State University Extension) aphids on underside of leaves Mole crickets and caterpillars hide deep in turf and are difficult to detect. Drenching a small area of turf with soapy water can irritate the pests and cause them to temporarily surface where they can be identified, counted and treated. (Source: FL Extension Service) ADDING COFFEE GROUNDS TO YOUR SOIL HELPS ACIDIFY IT False - Fresh coffee grounds are acidic, but used coffee grounds are not. They're neutral. Therefore, adding your used coffee grounds won't change your soil pH. A better idea is to add used grounds to the compost pile. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) WILTING LEAVES ALWAYS INDICATE THAT A PLANT NEEDS WATER False – There are other reasons that plant leaves wilt, so it’s worth exploring other causes before soaking your plant in water. In fact, wilting leaves could be due to waterlogged soil (which deprives roots of oxygen). Overly moist soil can also promote fungal disease. Certain bacteria may also cause leaf wilt. Another reason leaves wilt is animal damage to the roots. Gophers and nematodes feed on roots. Other animals may create tunnels under your plants that reduce root contract with the soil. Additional reasons for wilting leaves are over fertilizing or excess salt in the soil. (University of Minnesota Extension, University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) GRASS CLIPPINGS LEFT ON THE LAWN CAUSE THATCH False - Thatch is a layer of grass stems and roots, living and dead organic matter that settles on the grass or ground. Excessive thatch, over a half-inch thick, creates an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots. They cause the lawn to grow very rapidly, inhibiting the decomposition of organic matter at ground level. Lawn clippings are often erroneously blamed for thatch buildup. Lawn clippings are very high in water content and rapidly break down. Overwatering and over-fertilizing have more to do with the buildup of thatch. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) MEXICAN PETUNIA IS INVASIVE: DON’T PLANT IT! Maybe - It is true that native Mexican petunia is invasive and nearly impossible to get rid of once it invades. However, three non-invasive cultivars have been developed by the University of Florida and are sold as cultivars 'Mayan Purple’, 'Mayan White' and 'Mayan Pink’. And the sterile cultivar ‘Purple Showers’, taller and larger than its invasive relative, is available at big box stores. (Source: FL Extension Service) Note : All these cultivars are treated as annuals in Minnesota. In conclusion, when you come across advice that is not footnoted, or comes from a dubious source, it is always worth checking with your local extension service or a reliable research source. That will save you time, effort and money if the advice you have received turns out to be a myth. Click here for the University of Minnesota Extension website. References “Coming Clean on Soap in the Garden, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/coming-clean-soap-garden . “Living with Nature and Nuisance Animal,” https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/livingwith_wildlife/index.html “Managing Mexican Petunia (Ruellia Simplex C. Wright) in the Home Landscape,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP498 “Managing Plant Pests with Soaps,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1248 “Mothballs: Regulation, Proper Uses, and Alternatives;” National Pesticide Information Center, http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/regulation.html University of Minnesota Extension; https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Becky Peterson, “Cracking an egg under a tomato plant.” Ms. Peterson is a Dakota County Master Gardener. UC Marin Master Gardeners; https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/GARDEN_MYTHS_BUSTED/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,4), www.invasive.org (3)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 3 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the third in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about planting and lessons learned. (This is the third in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, planting and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Planting Day It’s finally time to plant! My plants are available to pick up on Friday, June 17, 2022. And you know what they say, about the best laid plans . . . I get my plants home and realize that a full 20% are not what I originally ordered! I knew that there was a possibility for substitutions when ordering kits but I wasn’t expecting this many. I do some quick research on the replacement plants and make some changes to the planting plan. As luck would have it, it’s going to be in the upper 80’s on Saturday and in the mid 90’s on Sunday. A great weekend to plant the 180 plants ordered - not really, but we will make it work. I’ve enlisted my brother and my sister-in-law to help install the pollinator garden on Saturday. Up until this point, the most beneficial tool in the pollinator garden had been the chainsaw I used to clear unwanted trees and shrubs. On planting day, the most beneficial tool is the drill auger attachment used to “dig” 180 planting holes. We finish planting a full hour earlier than anticipated and it looks great! Time to get some water on this new garden. Care for the new garden is pretty basic – water and weed. The new plants need an inch of water a week Ito help them get established. Removing weeds reduces competition for soil nutrients, water and sunlight. I was pleasantly surprised to see seven varieties of plants bloom their first season! And yes, I even saw some pollinators in the garden. Lessons Learned What I would do differently Plan for wildlife - I lost 8 plants, not a lot but enough Look for deer and rabbit resistant plants when purchasing plants and/or Protect new plants from wildlife Start planning earlier Identify the physical garden area earlier that way plants can be ordered before some sell out Manage my expectations, with the part sun/part shade conditions, my plants are healthy but growing slower than they would in full sun What I would do again Plant a pollinator garden Order plant kits for a first-time pollinator garden Work with the Lawns to Legumes program or consider a similar program Recruit or accept offers to help plant the garden Use the chainsaw and drill auger attachment First time events for 2023 Clean up the pollinator garden in the spring - leaving the garden standing protects any overwintering pollinators Leave beds of leaves, twigs and other “messy” areas near the pollinator garden to encourage pollinators to both overwinter and make their homes near this food source Evaluate how plants are doing in their current location, move plants that are struggling Replace plants that have died or were damaged Select replacement plants on my own vs. using a plant kit Calling all pollinators! The garden should be bigger and better than last year. Photo Credit: Brenda Scheer (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)