< Back September - A Jar of Flowers Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Summertime - a flower extravaganza! The beauty of flowers cannot be beat, but now what do we do as summer comes to a close. Is there a way to preserve or hold onto the flowers throughout fall and winter? Did you say throughout winter? Yes, it is possible to preserve your summertime flowers throughout Winter in a fun and creative way with the Little Sprouts in your life using simple items you may have at home! We are going to learn how to not just press our summer flowers, but turn them into a beautiful decoration to give as a gift or keep for ourselves. Supplies Needed : Flowers from garden (best are smaller or more open petal flowers/blooms, leaves, grasses; ex. Cosmos, Pansy, Hydrangea, Daisy, Larkspur, Forget-Me-Not, etc.) Parchment Paper or Tissue Paper Heavy objects (used to lay on top of flowers while pressing) Glass Container (ex. canning, jam/pickle/olive jars), Vase, Votive Mod Podge (DIY - glue & water mixed to a milky consistency) Brush Patience (waiting for flowers to dry may take a couple weeks) Find your favorite “Little Sprout” and visit your flower garden and begin finding your favorite flowers, leaves and grasses. It is a great time to explore and introduce your “Little Sprout” to the world of gardening and explore all there is to see. Watch for pollinators, talk about the various plant parts, shapes, colors and varieties. Cut the flowers you would like to use (choosing drier flowers is best) and with a paper towel gently press the flowers, leaves and grasses trying to get out as much moisture as possible. Now the drying process begins. Place flowers/leaves/grass between double layers of tissue paper and then place between two heavy objects (books, wood pieces with heavy objects placed on top). Flowers/leaves/grasses will take about 2-4 weeks to dry fully. Check on your flowers after a week to see if new tissue paper is needed. Flowers can mold during this process if they start out too moist and changing the tissue paper allows for better moisture absorption. Place heavy objects again on the flowers/leaves/grass. Repeat this process until all items are completely dry. Once all flowers/leaves/grasses are dry it is time to create a “Jar of Flowers”. Take the jar, vase or votive (glass container) you have chosen and with the brush, spread a coat of Mod Podge or the DIY Glue/Water mixture on the outside of the glass trying to put it on as smooth as possible if you do not want brush marks to show. Next, take the dried flowers/leaves/grasses and place them on your glass container as you wish to create a unique design. Add a second layer of Mod Podge or DIY Glue/Water mixture covering all of the glass container. Let dry! Once dry your glass container can be turned into a vase or votive holder. Give the creation away or keep for yourself. It will remind you and your “Little Sprout” throughout the year of your beautiful flower garden and all the fun that can be had with a few flowers, a glue mixture and a glass container/jar. Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1,2) , www.littlepinelearners.com (3)

< Back Learning to Grow African Leafy Vegetables in Minnesota The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. This article identifies some native African vegetables and discusses an important plant breeding program started by the University of Minnesota and partnering with community members. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. To address this problem, University of Minnesota students, led by Rex Bernardo, director of the Plant Breeding Center at the University, formed a Community Plant Breeding Team and partnered with community members and Hennepin County Master Gardeners to attempt to develop vegetable varieties that are better adapted to our climate. With input from the African and Asian communities, the group focused on four native African species: amaranth, spider wisp, jute mallow and Ethiopian mustard . These species have not received significant breeding attention and seeds of these species are not available commercially in the United States. Jute mallow or Molokhi (Xoexhoeua olitorious) originated in Egypt. It is filled with nutrients and has been used in traditional medicine. Spider wisp , or chinsaga (Cleome gynandra) is also nutrient-rich and is found in dishes in Kenya and parts of Asia. It is drought tolerant and self-seeding. Amaranth , or mchicha, emboga, or quintoniles. Its’ leaves and seeds are eaten throughout the world, generally in dry climates. Ethiopian mustard (Brassica carinata), also known as Gomenzer, Yehabesha Gomen and Hamli Adri, originated mainly in the Ethiopian highlands. It has been eaten as a leafy vegetable and oilseed crop since ancient times. It is a candidate for use as a clean energy source. The project necessitated engagement and input from community members as well as the expertise of specialists in agronomy and horticulture. This article highlights how the group went about engaging with the community to produce adaptations of their target vegetables. The article, titled, “ Lessons from a student-let breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota ” also provides detailed information about the native African vegetables studied. The group hopes to release their first cultivar of a leafy African vegetable in the next few years. It hopes that its work can serve as a model for other groups who might wish to expand to the Asian and Latin American communities. If you are interested in exploring other native African plants that can be grown in Minnesota, this article lists several plants, some of which will be familiar to you, including: Amaranth (see above), Okra, African Eggplant, Yams, Cassava, Taro Leaves, Waterleaf, Ethiopian Kale, Bitter Leaf, African Cabbage, Cowpeas, African Nightshade, Jute Leaves (see above), African Cucumber and Hibiscus Plant. For more information about growing native African vegetables, refer to the sources below and others at the University of Minnesota Extension website . Sources: Crop Science/Volume 65, Issue 3, “Lessons from a student-led breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota, May 14, 2025 University of Minnesota Extension, “Exploring African Plants, October 18, 2023 University of Minnesota Extension, “Growing Staple Vegetables from Around the World in Minnesota,” 2024 Ethiopian Mustard (Brassica carinata A. Braun) as an Alternative Energy Source and Sustainable crop; https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 University of Minnesota Extension; https://mglobal.umn.edu/immigrants-minnesota-often-crave-taste-home-u-m-researchers-breeding-african-crops-minnesota https://www.fifteen.net/vegetables/african/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), HDPI https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back Indulging in the World of Mulching Spring has sprung in Minnesota! Are you thinking about putting mulch in your garden or wondering if you should? Resolve to learn more about mulching in your landscape beds this year. As you wander around your gardens and at the local landscape and garden supply stores, you may wonder which type of mulch to use, where to apply it and what time of year is appropriate for such mulch. Read on to find out the answers to these mulching questions. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener CATEGORIES OF MULCH ORGANIC Organic mulches are natural materials that decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and beneficial microorganisms that inhibit plant diseases. The increased amounts of organic matter will improve soil drainage and moisture retention, reduce soil compaction, and attract earthworms. Because organic mulches decompose, they need to be replaced. Depending on the type of mulch used, replacement intervals vary from one to four years. Bark: Available in bags or bulk, bark mulch comes in various particle sizes, ranging from fine to large chunks with some decorative colored/dyed options. This attractive mulch is weed-free and decomposes slowly, with cedar and cypress being the slowest. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs, and roses, as well as in perennial beds. Photo by Mary Gadek daffodils surrounded by wood mulch Wood Chips: Wood chips from local arborists, municipal facilities, or waste sites are produced by chipping or shredding tree and shrub trimmings. Shredded mulch is less likely to blow or wash away than chips. Wood chips are best used in most landscape plantings, including around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Be aware: Some commercially available wood chips are made by shredding or chipping lumber or pallets. They are an inferior product that breaks down quickly and may contain chemicals. These products are sometimes dyed to mask their origin. Check labels or with your garden center to avoid such products. Wood chips are best used in landscape plantings, such as around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Pine Needles: Pine needle mulch, or pine straw, is light, airy, slow to decompose, and attractive. It lasts several years and can be easily removed, if necessary. Pine needles are slightly acidic, although their effect on soil pH is relatively minor. Use pine needles in the landscape, especially around trees and shrubs, and perennials. Available at local garden centers or under the pine tree in your yard. Photo by Mary Gadek straw mulch in garden Cocoa Beans Shells: Cocoa bean shells or cocoa hulls are a by-product of chocolate production. They are light, easy to handle, and have an attractive brown color with a pleasant aroma. This mulch is more expensive than most, but a depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Best to use for annuals, large containers, perennials, vegetable gardens, roses and sensory gardens. They typically last about one growing season. WARNING: Dog owners should monitor their dogs closely, as dogs may develop signs of chocolate poisoning if they ingest it. Straw: Wheat, oat, or soybean straw, free of seeds , makes effective short-term mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed as well as overwintering insulation for cold-tender plants. Avoid using it around trees and shrubs as it may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Sawdust : Sawdust is easy to apply, weed-free, and decomposes slowly. Apply sawdust in vegetable gardens, perennial plantings, or around trees and shrubs. Use saw dust that either has been composted or aged for a year, or a thin layer (1 inch or less) of fresh saw dust, ensuring it doesn't crust over, reducing water infiltration. Watch for nitrogen deficiency (when your plants appear light green to yellow colors and slow growth) when using sawdust due to the high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Refrain from using sawdust from treated lumber. Leaves: Taken right from your own yard, s hred or compost leaves before using them as mulch to prevent matting, reduce their likelihood of blowing away, and speed up decomposition. Utilize for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, raspberry plantings, and around perennials, trees, and shrubs. However, skip applying for winter mulch for strawberries and herbaceous perennials because they tend to mat down and smother plants. Grass Clippings: Grass clippings decompose quickly, making them ideal for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds or left (without clumps) on your lawn while cutting with an unbagged lawnmower. Let lawn clippings dry before applying to gardens, as fresh clippings may form a dense mat or produce an odor. Avoid using clippings treated with broadleaf herbicide until after two or three mowings. Clippings from weed-infested lawns will contain weed seeds. Newspaper and Cardboard: newspaper and cardboard can be used as mulch (but is often then covered with wood mulch or compost), in vegetable gardens, garden pathways, and around trees and shrubs. Shredded newspapers or whole sheets can be used as mulch. Most newspapers use organic inks, so there is no worry about lead contamination. Avoid waxed cardboard and glossy paper, such as magazine pages. Remove tape and staples from boxes. This link provides additional instructions on how to implement this mulch. Compost: Compost, used alone or with other mulches, like shredded leaves or newspaper, helps improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility, but doesn't suppress weeds as well as other mulches. Compost can be used in nearly all garden settings, including perennial and annual beds, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs. INORGANIC Photo by Mary Gadek Little Bluestem ornamental grass in rock mulch Inorganic mulches, include rock, gravel, rubber or plastic chips, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric . The benefits of inorganic mulches are: warming the soil in the spring or fall, suppressing weeds, limiting soil erosion on steep areas and preventing water infiltration where water is not wanted. However, inorganic mulches do not contribute to building soil fertility or composition, can overheat soil in the summer and often have organic material collected on top of it, leading to weed issues. Inorganic mulches usually are more tedious to install, may require additional irrigation and can be difficult to garden in, making planting, transplanting, and weeding challenging. Rubber or plastic chips eventually decompose, which can release chemical components that are not desirable for healthy soil. Organic mulches placed over landscape fabric can still get weeds and are more likely to wash away. WHEN TO APPLY MULCH In Minnesota, apply mulch i n early spring but wait until the ground warms and perennials emerge. Putting down a layer of mulch too early can further insulate the ground and slow plant emergence. In the fall, mulch can help protect newly planted perennials and other plants from harsh cold temperatures. For late-season applications, apply mulch after plants go dormant, but not too early, as it can delay dormancy and increase the risk of cold damage. BEWARE OF JUMPING WORMS Beware of jumping worms. Once you have chosen the type of mulch, keep reading to learn more about applying mulch to your garden as well as learning about invasive jumping worms which like to reside in mulch. Here is an article about mulch and jumping worms . For more jumping worm prevention, seek out garden centers that use the recommended best practices with their mulch. This is an article about best management practices. Mulching is often a good gardening practice but be mindful of the type of mulch your use and when to use it, in order to obtain the best result. Sources https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/using-mulch-garden https://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/how_to_select_mulch.pdf https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics/ https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/prepcare/garden-mulch-and-jumping-worms https://www.mnla.biz/news/677301/2024-Updated-Nursery--Landscape-Best-Management-Practices-BMPs-to-Reduce-Spread-of-Jumping-Worms.htm#:~:text=Only%20use%2C%20sell%2C%20purchase%2C,eggs%20and%20other%20horticultural%20pests . Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1-3)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)

< Back Autumn Leaves Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener This page introduces books and fun activities that will help your child to understand why leaves change color and learn that leaves have some things in common with humans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiQrG88OcmY Summer Green to Autumn Gold: Uncovering Leaves’ Hidden Colors , by Mia Posada, answers readers’ (ages 5-10) questions about why leaves change colors. It gives the science behind the many different colors of leaves and includes beautiful watercolor and collage art on every page. The author and illustrator reside in Golden Valley, MN! Fletcher and the Falling Leaves , by Julia Rawlinson, lets young readers (ages 1-5) follow Fletcher the fox cub as he discovers his favorite tree seems to be sick. Each day more leaves turn brown and fall to the ground. Fletcher is very worried for the tree until he finds a wonderful surprise on the first day of winter. Do For elementary aged children try these two very simple experiments that demonstrate the importance of trees and their leaves to our daily lives. It will also help them visualize the concept that plants and trees are alive just like us! 1. Do Leaves Breathe? Materials: Freshly picked leaf that is still green Bowl of water large enough to fit the leaf Rock or something to weigh down the leaf Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. What do they see? Do they hear the leaf breathing? Fill the bowl with water and submerge the leaf in water using the rock to make sure the leaf is fully submerged. Place the bowl in a sunny location. Wait for a few hours then check on the leaf. You should see small bubbles forming on the leaf and edges of the bowl Explanation: Your child is observing part of the process of photosynthesis where oxygen is being expelled from the leaf. While the leaf doesn’t use lungs to breath as we do, it does similarly take in and release air. As humans we breathe in the oxygen expelled in our daily lives. Adapted from science-u.org 2. Do Leaves Sweat? Materials: Clear zip lock bag String or twist tie to secure the bag tightly Branch of leaves in the sun Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. How does the leaf feel? Can they see the leaf sweating? Fit the plastic bag on the end of a branch which has several green leaves on it. Make sure your branch is in the sunlight for a few hours. Secure the bag tightly with the string or twist tie. One corner of the bag should be pointing down toward the ground so that the water can collect into one location. After a few hours, check the bag. You should see water pooled in the corner of the bag. Explanation: Your child is observing plant transpiration. This process can be explained to a child by comparing it to a human sweating and expelling water to cool down. Plant transpiration is crucial to our daily lives as it releases water into our atmosphere to be evaporated. Adapted from Kids Fun Science, Youtube channel Fall Leaf Scavenger Hunt For younger children around ages 2-5 set up a fall leaf scavenger hunt. Depending on the age, the child may need greater parental assistance. See below for some suggestions but feel free to add your own categories! Find a yellow leaf (or one with yellow on it) Find a green leaf (or one with green on it) Find a red leaf (or one with red on it) Find a brown leaf (or one with brown on it) Find a leaf with a whole in it Find a leaf with three points Find a leaf that has an oval shape Find a small leaf Find a big leaf

< Back The World Needs Birds, Butterflies, and Bees Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Swoosh, swish, and buzz! With the start of summer, children look in awe at the birds, butterflies, bees, and other pollinators bustling around outside. Investigate with your young gardeners to understand why pollinators are important to our gardens and explore ways to interact with pollinators by reading this article. What Are Pollinators? Pollinators are creatures who help gardens, parks, farmlands and other landscapes bring us food, resources, and beauty to our world. They carry pollen from one plant to another to fertilize (or feed) plants to allow them to make fruit or seeds. Bees are the most well-known pollinators but other varieties include ants, flies, beetles, and birds. Why Are Pollinators Important? Pollinators are important to our world because they: Help feed the world: Pollinators are necessary for bringing us food and other resources. They are responsible for about one of every three bites of food we eat and are important in producing nutrient-dense foods, like fruits and nuts. Aid the growth of plants: 80% of plants rely upon pollinators to reproduce and continue to grow. We need plants to flourish in the world to feed our animals, to stabilize (or hold together) soil, and to filter water to keep it clean. Give and maintain the diversity of plants: A successful plant landscape requires plant diversity (or variety) to survive. By pollinating many types of plants, pollinators keep our gardens and farmlands growing strong and beautiful. When plant diversity exists, the failure of one plant in our garden is not devastating because we still have others to use. Also, our gardens and farms can continue to grow for many years and provide beauty to the world. How Can You Help Keep Pollinators in Our World Plant an assortment of flowers that have pollen and nectar. https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers Create pollinator habitats (or homes) and nesting sites. https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=Natural%20habitats,be%20left%20in%20the%20ground Eliminate or limit the use of pesticides that are dangerous to pollinators. https://beelab.umn.edu/pesticide-free-plants To further investigate pollinators with your children, here are some activities: DO *Plant in your garden: https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers *National Park Service activity booklet for pollinators: https://www.nps.gov/sagu/learn/kidsyouth/upload/pollinator-activity-booklet.pdf *Make a bee bath https://www.hammerandaheadband.com/bee-bath-diy/ READ A colorful and informative book for pre-readers and above illustrates why we need bees in our world. Available for purchase: “ Give Bees a Chance .” check out the book at the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9780670016945 References https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/important-lessons-pollinators#:~:text=Pollinators%20and%20plants%20mutually%20support,stigma%20to%20enable%20plant%20reproduction . https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=Natural%20habitats,be%20left%20in%20the%20ground https://beelab.umn.edu/pesticide-free-plants Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Bird Feeding Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. PLACEMENT OF BIRD FEEDERS Always place your bird feeders where you can frequently see the birds feeding but no closer than 3 feet from your windows. If you want to attract a larger number of birds, use Nyjer and black oiled sunflowers in a tube feeder, hulled sunflowers and whole peanuts in hopper and platform feeders (beware though that squirrels will love and go after the peanuts). You can also use alternative foods such as suet, fruits, mealworms, and nectar (great for hummingbirds). Adding habitat, food, water, and nest boxes will attract birds year-round. Feeders near larger trees and shrubs attract more visits to your feeders. Keep feeders free of debris and fill only with seeds birds will eat. Overcrowding at feeders can increase a bird’s stress level making them susceptible to disease. Choose feeders that maximize contact between birds and provide them with additional places to feed. Keep your feeding area clean of seed hulls and bird droppings by sweeping or vacuuming the ground below the feeders. You can also use no-waste seeds or seed mixes containing hulled seeds. Avoid feeders with sharp edges or points which can puncture the skin and cause bleeding or scratches that facilitate transmission of disease. CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS The best practice is to regularly clean your feeders approximately once a month with one part bleach to nine parts of water. Completely immerse feeders for at least 3 minutes and allow them to dry. Scrub bird baths and change the water several times a week to prevent mosquito reproduction and the spread of West Nile Virus. STORING BIRD SEED Store your bird food properly to ensure the seed is fresh. Store bird seed in areas that are cool and have low humidity. I keep my seeds in Menards sealed storage containers and store them in our indoor porch pantry which is cool year-round. HPAI (AVIAN BIRD FLU) This summer was a scary one for all bird watchers when we were advised to stop feeding the birds due to the Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (bird flu). The AVIAN flu is typically found in aquatic birds (swans, geese, ducks, etc.) who often don’t get sick but are sources for infection for domestic poultry (chickens and turkeys). The Raptor Center has been tracking the outbreak of AVIAN influenza in various bird species. Numbers were high for infection between March 28th through May 15th of this year. Although the number of cases has been on the decline, the risk from bird feeders is now low enough that we can use our feeders again. HPAI rarely infects humans, but depending on the virus strain it can have a severe impact on susceptible birds of many species. It’s easily transmitted in the feces and respiratory secretions of infected birds, especially during the migration season. The virus can also survive cold and freezing temperatures and will survive in aquatic environments. Henceforth, this is even more important for sanitation in our bird feeders. For more information on HPAI, refer to the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota, Raptor Center National Bird-Feeding Society DNR Bird Feeding Guide All photos courtesy of Duncraft.com except as noted Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), jdorganizer.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Our State Insect: The Monarch Butterfly Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The days are getting shorter, the leaves are changing, some days there is a noticeable chill in the air. Time to head south before the snow flies. I’m not talking about Minnesotans who’ve experienced one too many frigid winters, but rather the Minnesota state butterfly, the monarch. Click here to read fascinating facts about the monarch butterfly, renowned for its extraordinary migration. Since March 31, 2000, the monarch butterfly has represented Minnesota as the state butterfly after being promoted by a fourth-grade class at Anderson Elementary School in Mahtomedi, Minnesota. It was a popular choice. Elementary schools in six other states convinced their state legislatures to adopt the monarch as their state butterfly as well. Though monarch butterflies can be seen all over North America, from Canada to Mexico, the eastern monarch butterfly numbers have dropped drastically over the last few decades. In fact, on July 21, 2022, the International Union for Conservation of Nature declared the monarch as endangered, threatened by habitat destruction and climate change. However, the monarch is not protected by the Endangered Species Act (ESA) because the US Fish and Wildlife Service has not yet determined the monarch belongs on the protected list. Most creatures on the ESA list have very localized habitats, whereas the monarch is widespread, making it difficult to enforce protection of its habitat. To understand the range of the monarch, it is important to look at the life cycle of the insect. The Latin name for the monarch butterfly is Danaus plexippus, which literally means sleepy transformation. The monarch undergoes a complete metamorphosis from egg, to larva (caterpillar), then pupa (chrysalis), and finally the adult stage. The egg and caterpillar stages occur only on species of milkweed (genus Asclepias), whereas adults survive on the nectar from a variety of flowering plants. In a single year, there will be 4 to 5 generations of monarchs. A butterfly lays one egg at a time, roughly the size of a pinhead or pencil tip. But throughout their lifespan a female lays an average of 300-500 eggs specifically on milkweed plants so that the caterpillars will emerge directly on their only source of food. During the caterpillar stage, they simply eat, rest, and grow until they form into a chrysalis from which they finally emerge as a butterfly to begin the cycle all over again. The monarch life cycle The transformation from egg to adult takes about a month, and then they live only two to six weeks as adults, where their main focus is laying eggs to build their population throughout the summer. That is until the last generation of the season. This super generation is the group of butterflies that make the long journey all the way to Mexico along with tens of millions of other monarchs. This generation may live up to eight or nine months! Tags or modern sensors have been placed on monarchs to gather data about the amazing journey that takes them from as far north as Canada thousands of miles to their winter home in Mexico, or in California in the case of the western Monarchs. Upon reaching their destination west of Mexico City, they flutter around in the warmth of the sun by day, and at night they huddle together covering entire trees. In the spring, they make the journey north laying eggs on milkweed plants along the way. To experience for yourself the magical sight of millions of monarchs wintering in Mexico, consider traveling with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s curator of endangered plants on Kingdom of Monarchs | Minnesota Landscape Arboretum trip to Mexico in February 2024. In the days ahead, be on the lookout for the last stragglers beginning their long journey south to Mexico. The easiest way to tell the difference between a male and female monarch, is to note the presence of black dots on each of the male’s wings or the lack of dots on the female. Ponder the long road ahead for these magnificent creatures and perhaps how you can help them thrive in the future. Consider creating or enhancing a pollinator habitat in your yard or community. Identify a sunny location, prepare the site for sowing native seeds or installing native plants, plant, and continue to conduct maintenance to provide a healthy habitat. Check out Minnesota Zoo for a list of Minnesota native pollinator favorites. For additional resources for monarch fans of all ages, visit monarch joint venture . Resources for this article: https://ece.engin.umich.edu/stories/tracking-monarch-butterfly-migration-with-the-worlds-smallest-computer https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/us-state-butterflies-and-insects.html#:~:text=The%20Monarch%20Butterfly%20is%20an,the%20friendliness%20of%20the%20states . https://www.iucn.org/press-release/202207/migratory-monarch-butterfly-now-endangered-iucn-red-list#:~:text=Gland%2C%20Switzerland%2C%2021%20July%202022,habitat%20destruction%20and%20climate%20change . https://www.fws.gov/press-release/2020-12/endangered-species-act-listing-monarch-butterfly-warranted-precluded https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/monarch-butterfly#:~:text=The%20monarch%20butterfly%20is%20known,ability%20to%20hibernate%20and%20metamorphize . https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/2000/0/306/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/insects/monarchbutterfly.html https://arb.umn.edu/kingdom-monarchs https://mnzoo.org/conservation/act-wildlife/plant-pollinators/ https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/migration/index.shtml https://monarchjointventure.org/about-us/partners Photo credits: Lisa Olson, Master Gardener (1), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (2), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (3), https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/vital-statistics-and-measuring (4)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Our State Flower: The Showy Lady’s Slipper Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Have you ever wondered about how state symbols came to be? Though united as one great nation, each of our 50 states is proud to highlight its unique representations, as varied as the individuals who inhabit their lands. Over the next several months, in this section you can learn more about some of our own Minnesota state symbols. The state flower is a fitting place to launch our exploration of our state symbols as it paved the way for the rest of the symbols chosen to proudly represent each state. And so we begin with our Minnesota state flower, the showy lady’s slipper. The showy lady’s slipper is also known by its Latin name, Cypripedium reginae, and more common name, pink and white lady’s slipper or simply moccasin flower. To the Ojibwe, it is known as Agobizowin . Its designation as Minnesota’s state flower was passed into law in 1967, but the journey began long ago in 1893, inspired by the World’s Fair in Chicago. The 1893 World’s Fair brought people from each state and at least 40 countries to Chicago to celebrate ideas, inventions, and achievements. The Congress of Representative Women was a weeklong convention at the fair that brought hundreds of women together from across the United States and the world to voice concerns of the day in front of crowds numbering in the thousands. To prepare for the event, one idea proposed was the “National Garland of Flowers,” whereby each U.S. state and territory would choose a flower that represented the state’s history, culture, and environment at the fair. The plants chosen for the fair were not yet considered official state flowers, but the event did inspire states to consider the idea of an official state flower. After consulting with a state botanist, women from across the state inclusive of every congressional district voted for a state flower from the following list: Lady’s Slipper Silky Aster Indian Pink Coneflower Wild Rose The lady’s slipper won by a huge margin and a petition was written to the state legislature to make it the state flower. While the picture of the correct plant made its way onto the Minnesota state flag in 1893, the incorrect Latin name was used in the official petition to the legislature, and the Senate designated Cypripedium calceolous, a flower that doesn’t exist in Minnesota, as our state symbol. Thankfully, the women of the St. Anthony Study Circle caught the error, and in 1902 a new resolution was written. The error didn’t go unnoticed, however. Newspapers of the day were quick to run headlines proclaiming our state flower a fake. But all’s well that ends well. The corrected resolution was passed by the Senate and House naming Cypripedium reginae , or showy lady’s slipper, as our state flower. Finally, in 1967 an actual law was passed that sealed the correct plant its place in our state’s history as our official state flower. The showy lady’s slipper is the tallest of over 40 orchid species native to Minnesota. The Latin species name reginae means “queen” and spotting this magnificent plant in the wild makes it clear how this moccasin flower got its name. It grows one to two feet tall and produces usually one or two flowers on its tall, sturdy stem. Out of a single rhizome, up to 20 stems may emerge. The flower consists of white petals and sepals and a magenta streaked inflated pouch, or slipper. Blooms last up to two weeks and typically occur in June to early July. Four to twelve large elliptical leaves that are five to ten inches long with parallel veins wrap around the stem. The leaves and stem are covered in bristle-like hair that may cause a rash if touched. This showy plant commonly lives 50 years, though some plants have been known to survive 100 years! It is a good thing it is so long-lived as it may take up to 16 years for its first flower to bloom. Each year a plant may produce as many as 500,000 seeds that are as fine as flour dust. They do not transplant well. It is better to just enjoy them by taking a photo if you find one. In fact, since 1925, the showy lady’s slipper has been protected by law making it illegal to pick or dig up the plants. For specific rules regarding written permission and permits from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and the Minnesota Department of Transportation, you can read Information on transplanting Lady's-slipper Orchids . Here are a few ways to enjoy the showy lady’s slipper in person: Go to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum . Call the Bloom Line ( 612-625-9791) in advance to hear if they are in bloom along the Arb’s Bog Walk. Walk along Lady’s Slipper Lane at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary in Minneapolis. Take a drive along Lady Slipper Scenic Byway in northern Minnesota through the Chippewa National Forest to see them blooming along the roadside. To learn more about our beautiful state flower, see the following links for additional information: https://www.leg.mn.gov/leg/symbols https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/flower2.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/ https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/a-national-garland-how-women-led-the-movement-to-declare-state-flowers/mAFroO4vbPlJakiE https://arbconservation.umn.edu/minnesotas-native-orchids#:~:text=There%20are%20roughly%20200%20species,one%20quarter%20of%20all%20species . https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/cypripedium_reginae.shtml https://arb.umn.edu/about/contact-us https://www.minneapolisparks.org/parks-destinations/parks-lakes/gardens__bird_sanctuaries/eloise_butler_wildflower_garden_and_bird_sanctuary/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/snapshots/plants/showyladysslipper.html https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/showy-ladys-slipper https://seasonwatch.umn.edu/showy-ladys-slipper Photo Credit: Office of the Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and US Forest Service (2,3), Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (5)

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)