< Back BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener Not all bulbs are bulbs: Understanding the different types: True Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes Not all of what we home gardeners call bulbs are—technically speaking—bulbs. Horticulturists identify different structures for different flowers, and these terms highlight the great variety we find amongst our favorite flowers. A true bulb has a plate from which roots will shoot, and is made up of several scales or layers like garlic bulbs that contain nutrients for its growth. True bulbs include daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, and tulips. Corms, like crocuses and gladioli, have a similar plate of roots, but no scales; they are a solid, compressed food storage unit. Tubers, like dahlias and begonias, bud from an enlarged rootlike structure which multiplies underground like potatoes, while rhizomes, like canna lilies and lily-of-the-valley, are horizontal structures that look like swollen stems. The horticultural name for bulbs—for all true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers —is geophytes. It’s fitting, as “geo” means “earth” and “phyte” means plant. These plants of the earth all have underground storage organs from which they will grow. Hardy versus Tender Much like Minnesota retirees, the most important distinction amongst geophytes is where they will spend the winter. Do they like the cold or will they need warmer weather? Hardy bulbs are tough enough to survive outside in the wintertime. In fact, that cold snap is vital! Because of this, hardy bulbs are planted in autumn and will bloom for the first time the following spring. Hardy bulbs are often the first flowers to appear in spring: snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and more. They must be buried to the appropriate depth, and in an area with good drainage. Although hardy bulbs can stay in the ground indefinitely, they do require some maintenance. Every 3-4 years, hardy bulbs may need to be dug up and divided to prevent overcrowding. Tender bulbs are too delicate for winter and must be removed from our gardens before a frost sets in. Stored indoors during winter, they can be planted again in late spring for late summer or autumn blossoms. Canna lilies, begonias, freesia, gladiolus, and dahlias are amongst the most popular tender bulbs. Learn how to care for bulbs and rhizomes over the winter to prevent problems and rot. Take care when digging up bulbs, clean the soil from them gently, and in some cases, let them cure for a week in the sunlight before storing them in paper bags out of the light during winter months. For more information, read this article from the U of M Extension. If you want to plant hardy bulbs, you will have to wait for the fall. But you can still plant tender bulbs this spring for enjoyment during the summer. Resources: U of MN Extension: Planting Bulbs, Tubers, and Rhizomes. https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#soil-preparation-1410662 University of FL: Geophytes. https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/07-geophytes/01-bulbs/02-geophytes-bulbs.html Photo Credits: U of M Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3)

< Back Winter Chicken Stew (And a Special Valentine Treat) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener The ice and snow have buried your garden under a cold blanket. Picking fresh veggies and herbs from your own plot is a distant memory and a future hope! You can still make tasty nutritious meals for your family using your garden produce, just open your freezer. Here is a recipe for a delicious chicken stew that will make great use of your frozen vegetables and herbs. Follow that up with this special sweet Valentine’s treat. Last October I dug up all the carrots and parsnips before the first hard frost. I washed, peeled, sliced, blanched, and froze containers of them. They’ve been sleeping in my freezer and now it’s time to wake them up with herbs, (also frozen or dried from my garden) in this flavorful, healthy chicken stew. I love using a crock pot for this recipe. It must be set on the low setting for the chicken to absorb the flavors and not taste dry. Country Style Chicken Stew Medium Crock Pot 2 tsp olive oil 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 oz. portobello mushrooms, cubed (or one small can of mushroom stems and pieces) 14 oz. fat-free chicken broth ¼ cup dry white wine 3 golden potatoes, cubed into bite size pieces 15 oz can great northern beans, rinsed and drained 2 cups frozen sliced carrots (or 4 fresh ones) 1 cup frozen sliced parsnips (or 2 fresh ones) 8 cloves garlic, minced ¼ tsp pepper ¼ tsp of each of these dried spices: thyme, basil, rosemary, tarragon, oregano (if using frozen, use about a pinch of each) 1 bay leaf ¼ cup dried parsley (you can also use frozen, just chop it finely) Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and mushrooms, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Combine the chicken mixture with everything else listed in a medium sized crock pot. Cover and cook on LOW until the chicken is cooked through, the potatoes are tender, and the flavors are blended, 6 to 8 hours. Serves 4. Serve the chicken stew with these colorful sweet scones Just for My Valentine Sweetheart Scones 2 ½ cups flour (can use ½ whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 Tbsp Baking Powder ¾ tsp salt 6 Tbsp butter 1 egg ½ cup milk ¾ cup dried cranberries, cherries or blueberries (a little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries) Top with 2 tsp milk and tsp sugar before baking. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl or food processor combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. With a pastry blender or food processor cut in butter until mixture represents coarse crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a separate bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend into the flour mixture. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Pack dough in to ¾ in thickness and use a butter knife or cookie cutter to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly browned. Serve with Raspberry preserves. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back Purple Clematis (Clematis occidentalis): Beauty Reaching Upwards Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener If you are a fan of clematis, you know that there are dozens of varieties to choose from. In this article, Jim Lakin states the case for the “good old native purple clematis.” It’s on of Jim’s favorites. Read his article to understand why. I must admit, I’m a big fan of clematis. I have over a dozen varieties running up wire fences around the back garden, blooming at different times of spring and summer, effortlessly providing an ongoing show of color and form. Yet, of all the flashy varietals, good old native purple clematis remains a favorite. It’s tough but fairly easy to grow. Once established, it is vigorous but long lived, a dependable but showy workhorse. Purple clematis, sometimes known as “Purple Virgin’s Bower” is native to most of the upper East Coast and Midwest, extending up into Eastern Canada, so it is hardy all through Minnesota. In the wild it is found in "calcareous cliffs, rock ledges, talus slopes, gravelly embankments, rocky woods, and clearings" (Flora of North America, Volume 3. 1997). As you might imagine, the vine is not too picky about soils and will do well in a variety of environments, although you should make sure it has decent drainage. Clematis will need support to climb on as the plant will send out several shoots that can grow as tall as 12 feet although usually 4 to 6 feet. As a woodland plant it is mostly found in partial sun environments but usually tolerates full sun. This perennial woody vine blooms in May and June although it can appear a bit earlier in southern Minnesota. It produces gorgeous blue-violet to pinkish purple flowers 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. Several pollinators have been recorded visiting purple clematis, most frequently bumble bees. In late summer into fall, fruiting bodies are formed from the flowers. The styles elongate to form “tails” about 2 inches long, upon which green to rusty brown seeds form which are spread by the wind. There are, at present over 200 cultivars of clematis, which are wondrous in their variety and well worth growing, if you have the room. However, a great place to start is with the simple elegance of the native species, Clematis occidentalis. Photo credits: Minnesota Wildflowers, K. Chayka (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, P.M. Dziuk (2)

< Back Foxglove Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) can be a charming addition to your landscape. In this article you will learn about its interesting history and growing tips. In the year 1785 the English physician William Withering published An Account of the Foxglove, describing the medicinal features of extracts of this native perennial in the treatment of dropsy. That was a term for the swelling associated with severe congestive heart failure. This was the first account of its use in the medical profession, yet herbalists had been using foxglove tea to treat heart failure for centuries before. The only drawback of this “miracle cure” was that too much of a good thing could quickly dispatch the tea imbiber. The pharmacologically active agent in foxglove is digitalis, a drug still used today to treat heart failure and disturbances of heart rhythm. Digitalis, like foxglove has a narrow therapeutic range. Too much can cause serious side effects, including death. If, however, you are not prone to munching on your garden perennials, you will find that Digitalis purpurea is a charming addition to your landscape. Although originally native to most of Northern Europe, it has naturalized to the Upper Midwest where it grows as an herbaceous biennial or short-lived perennial. That is to say, a given plant usually lives two to three years but plentifully reseeds. Thus, if a garden area is left undisturbed, germination should provide an ongoing colony of Foxglove. In the first year, the plant forms a tight rosette on the ground. The second year a 3 to 6 foot stem develops with spirally arranged 3 x 2 inch or larger leaves. The flowers are arranged in a showy, terminal, elongated cluster. Each flower is tubular hanging downward. The “finger like” flower shape is reflected in the name Digitalis . These flowers are typically purple, but some plants, especially cultivars, of which there are many, may be pink, rose, yellow, or white. Foxglove tends to bloom in late spring to early summer with occasional shows later in the season. Digitalis purpurea prefers partial sunlight to deep shade, being a forest understory dweller. It frequently pops up in areas where the soil has been recently disturbed. Some accounts maintain that skin contact with foxglove can be harmful, so it is best to wear gloves when handling it. Although it can be grown from seed, this can be a little tricky and germination rates are not all that high. It’s probably a better bet to purchase a potted plant in the spring and enjoy the spectacular show that Foxglove provides. And remember, no nibbling the plants! Photo credits: www.abebooks.com (1), publc domain (2)

< Back Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Asters Smooth Aster The New England Aster is a common plant for Zone 4. Flowers are lavender to violet and yellow centers 1-2” wide. Flowers bloom on the stem ends in late August through October. The plant flourishes in moist acidic soil. Mature plants have woody stems and fibrous roots. Asters are mostly maintenance free but some mature plants can become top heavy and require support. A general low nitrogen fertilizer will help reduce the green foliage growth and produce more blooms. Trimming buds in late May encourages the growth of a bushy plant that is more stable during heavy wind and rainstorms. Divide the plant every three years to encourage vigorous growth. There are several other native aster species to explore each with different characteristics. They range from tall branching plants to shrubs to ground covers. Flowers are blue to violet or white. Some native aster species are: Purple Dome- Dwarf grows 18-24”, deep purple flowers in late summer Heath aster- Native to MN prairies and woodland edges, compact Smooth Aster – blue-violet flowers on 2-3’ stems, late summer Sky Blue Aster – similar to Smooth Aster but likes dry, sunny site Heart-Leaved Aster - Native to SE MN with white to sky-blue flowers Calico Aster – shade plant with small white flowers and 2-3 tall Aromatic Aster - Native to SE MN. More drought tolerant, late bloomer Big Leaf Aster – shady groundcover with large leaves and tall white flowers Check out this article in Northern Gardener for more information about these asters. Companion plants are goldenrod, grasses, oxeye, obedient plant, and showy tick trefoil. The combinations create a colorful late season pollinator garden. Asters are a colorful bloom in late summer and a critical fresh food source for migrating pollinators. Hyssops Blue Giant Hyssop Minnesota native hyssops (Agastache Foeniculum) are another late summer bloomer and fall pollinator. All plants are native to dry areas throughout Minnesota. Hyssops bloom in late summer-fall and are another valuable nectar source for bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Anise hyssop, also known as Blue Giant Hyssop or Lavender Hyssop is a pollinator magnet beloved by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. They have light blue-violet tubular flowers on 2-4’stems. They will grow in full sun to part shade and in dry fields and bloom throughout the summer. This plant is also deer resistant. Hyssop is a lovely addition to the urban garden. The attractive light green lance shaped leaves set the plant apart from other zone 4-8 perennials. All hyssops self-sow but the volunteer plants are easily pulled. Hyssop will grow in a perennial garden or border planting in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Hyssop is an herb. Anise hyssop’s scented leaves can be harvested for tea, for salads, and other drinks. A member of the Lemnaceae family, hyssop is a shrub that is also native to SE Europe, Middle East and the region around the Caspian Sea. It has an interesting herbal medicinal history being used as an antiseptic, cough reliever, expectorant, and abortive during medieval time. Other hyssop cultivars include: Golden jubilee- gold-colored leaves & is 20” tall. Alba and snowspire- white-flower spikes on top of 36” stems. Companions to hyssop include goldenrod, black-eyed Susan, and coneflower. Native asters and hyssops are not only a beautiful addition to any garden, they are an essential food source for pollinators; particularly late in the summer season. Sources: ext.umn.edu/native-plants www.webmed.com Steiner, Lynn, D. Landscaping with native plants of Minnesota. MBI Publishing, China, 2005 Northern Gardener Anise Hyssop and Asters Photo Credits: Northern Gardener, Benjamin Vogt (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, Katy Chayka

< Back Hens and Chicks Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener Sometimes referred to as a “roof Housesleek,” because they would often grow on houses, Hens and Chicks are a delightful perennial even if just grown in your garden. Read Master Gardener Gail Maifeld’s article for more on why Hens and Chicks are perfect for that dry, sunny spot in your yard. Native to Europe and Africa, Hens and Chicks are sometimes referred to as a roof Houseleek as they were grown on houses. Historically, the plant was found along stone walls, slate shingled roofs, and areas of poor sandy soil. The succulent grows as a mat in full sun and is also drought tolerant and deer resistant. Leaves are arranged in rosettes with the center one being the hen. Chicks form around the hen after the bloom fades. Although not planted for the blooms, the daisy like flowers can be light pink, reddish-purple, and pale green. There are several varieties to choose from: Sempervivum Arachnoideum: (cobweb houseleek) – Tips of the leaves are entwined with hairy fibers that appear to be cobwebs Pale green blooms Zones 5-8 Sempervivum Tectorum – Small rosettes quickly forming a 6”-10” mat Flowers may or may not form Reddish leaves and blooms Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Atropureum - This variety has dark reddish-purple leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Limelight – This variety has yellow-green, pink tipped leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Pacific Hawk – This variety has dark red leaves edged with silvery hairs Zones 3-8. Overwatering can lead to root rot so check the soil around the plant before watering. The varieties can be house plants but require a cactus potting soil or sand added to regular potting soil. The plant is divided by separating the new rosettes and rooting them. Blooms of Hens and Chicks do not have a recognizable scent. After the bloom fades it can be cut off or allowed to die back and form compost. Hens and chicks are a low maintenance, drought tolerant plant, and will add interest to a full sun, sandy soil location. For that problematic sunny spot that needs some attention - plant Hens and Chicks. Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2)

< Back Lavender Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener With its silvery-green foliage, upright flowers and compact form, lavender is an ideal addition to any garden. You can harvest it for fragrant flower arrangements, culinary uses, sachets and potpourri. Read this article for some tips on growing lavender in Minnesota. Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) is a cutting gardener’s favorite that combines function and beauty. The distinctive fragrance and attractive foliage make lavender a companion plant for a rose garden by covering the lower rosebush canes. Essential oils are said to revive the spirits and fragrant blooms are said to have a calming effect. It has been a difficult plant to grow in zone 4 despite the alkaline soil that lavender prefers. Lavender often died in Minnesota until new research from the Chicago Botanic Garden Plant Trials (2017) showed which varieties are hardy in their USDA Zone 5 conditions. Based on an evaluation process the following seven types are hardy in zones 4 and 5: Imperial Gem, Royal Velvet, Munstead, Super Blue, Jean Davis, Niko, and Sharon Roberts. With a winter mulch of chopped leaves plus some topsoil, to keep the leaves in place, gardeners in the Twin Cities metro area have been successful with the Munstead variety. Ideally 2 feet of snow will protect the plant, also. Growing lavender in this area requires full sun, and well-drained soil—gravelly or sandy soils are ideal. Growers should plant early in the spring to allow for the longest growing season. Maintenance needs are few since lavenders do not need irrigation or fertilizer. Deadheading is the gardener’s choice but it will keep the plant neat looking. Cut the plant back one-third after blooming. Do not cut back to the ground in the fall. The gardener may need to trim the branches in the spring for reshaping. Natural oils of the lavender plant repel most grazing animals such as deer and rabbits. The fragrant blooms may be harvested and dried to make fragrant lavender pockets for sweaters or the lingerie drawer. Other uses include baking, teas, a drop in an infuser, or drop on a pillowcase to improve sleep quality. References Chevallier, Andrew. Herbal Remedies. Easy-to-Use Visual Reference Guide. Lavenders for Northern Gardens, Richard G. Hawke , Plant Evaluation Manager and Associate Scientist, Chicago Botanical Gardens. 2017. Good Lavenders for the North! Mary H. Meyer, Extension Horticulturist and Professor. Extension.umn.edu Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2,3)

< Back Autumn Leaves Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener This page introduces books and fun activities that will help your child to understand why leaves change color and learn that leaves have some things in common with humans. Summer Green to Autumn Gold: Uncovering Leaves’ Hidden Colors , by Mia Posada, answers readers’ (ages 5-10) questions about why leaves change colors. It gives the science behind the many different colors of leaves and includes beautiful watercolor and collage art on every page. The author and illustrator reside in Golden Valley, MN! Fletcher and the Falling Leaves , by Julia Rawlinson, lets young readers (ages 1-5) follow Fletcher the fox cub as he discovers his favorite tree seems to be sick. Each day more leaves turn brown and fall to the ground. Fletcher is very worried for the tree until he finds a wonderful surprise on the first day of winter. Do For elementary aged children try these two very simple experiments that demonstrate the importance of trees and their leaves to our daily lives. It will also help them visualize the concept that plants and trees are alive just like us! 1. Do Leaves Breathe? Materials: Freshly picked leaf that is still green Bowl of water large enough to fit the leaf Rock or something to weigh down the leaf Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. What do they see? Do they hear the leaf breathing? Fill the bowl with water and submerge the leaf in water using the rock to make sure the leaf is fully submerged. Place the bowl in a sunny location. Wait for a few hours then check on the leaf. You should see small bubbles forming on the leaf and edges of the bowl Explanation: Your child is observing part of the process of photosynthesis where oxygen is being expelled from the leaf. While the leaf doesn’t use lungs to breath as we do, it does similarly take in and release air. As humans we breathe in the oxygen expelled in our daily lives. Adapted from science-u.org 2. Do Leaves Sweat? Materials: Clear zip lock bag String or twist tie to secure the bag tightly Branch of leaves in the sun Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. How does the leaf feel? Can they see the leaf sweating? Fit the plastic bag on the end of a branch which has several green leaves on it. Make sure your branch is in the sunlight for a few hours. Secure the bag tightly with the string or twist tie. One corner of the bag should be pointing down toward the ground so that the water can collect into one location. After a few hours, check the bag. You should see water pooled in the corner of the bag. Explanation: Your child is observing plant transpiration. This process can be explained to a child by comparing it to a human sweating and expelling water to cool down. Plant transpiration is crucial to our daily lives as it releases water into our atmosphere to be evaporated. Adapted from Kids Fun Science, Youtube channel Fall Leaf Scavenger Hunt For younger children around ages 2-5 set up a fall leaf scavenger hunt. Depending on the age, the child may need greater parental assistance. See below for some suggestions but feel free to add your own categories! Find a yellow leaf (or one with yellow on it) Find a green leaf (or one with green on it) Find a red leaf (or one with red on it) Find a brown leaf (or one with brown on it) Find a leaf with a whole in it Find a leaf with three points Find a leaf that has an oval shape Find a small leaf Find a big leaf

< Back Sedum in Your Fall Garden Tracey Scurto Autumn Joy Sedum is a perennial with thick, succulent leaves, fleshy stems, and clusters of star-shaped flowers. There are many varieties of Sedum. Adding them to your garden will extend interest and color well into the late Fall. Looking for the perfect plant that is easy on the eyes and provides beauty all year round? Then maybe adding Sedum to your garden or containers is the answer. All gardeners, from beginners to seasoned professionals, can find a place for Sedum in their gardening plans. This diverse group of plants has many varieties, and even in September and October, Sedums will bring color and interest to any landscape. One of the most popular and easiest Sedum to grow is Autumn Joy . Its dramatic presence can be used in a variety of ways. Use it as a backdrop for other early blooming perennials or plant it center stage where its beauty will create a pleasing focal point. Autumn Joy’s popularity for use in containers is expanding due to its rich fall color, which is a perfect complement to any autumn themed planter. Though popular in the fall, this reliable bloomer looks fantastic all year round. In late spring its thick stem starts to appear with a sturdy uniformed look that has a stunning polished appearance. The flower heads, composed of mini blossoms, appear in early August and can remain vibrant through November. The bloom’s first color appears in a pale pink and then slowly develops as the weeks progress into a deep shade of copper. When other perennials are fading, Autumn Joy hits its stride. During September and October its large flower heads are in full bloom. These late bloomers are also a fall favorite for bees and butterflies and help extend the pollen that is available in your garden. If left standing, Autumn Joy looks exceptional, even after first frost. By forgoing deadheading, it will provide a good source of food for birds and provide year end interest. This easy to care for perennial prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It is drought tolerant and in fact prefers dryer conditions. Autumn Joy can be pinched back in the spring to encourage bushier growth and prevent flopping. Any variety of Sedum can be a wonderful addition to any gardener’s pallet. It is easy to grow, extremely hardy and drought tolerant. Autumn Joy is a favorite of many gardeners for its vibrant fall color. With so many varieties to choose from, you will be able to find one best suited for you. Can’t decide? Plant an entire garden bed of different varieties of Sedum! It will not disappoint. Photo credits: Tracey Scurto (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Grow Beautiful, Healthy Roses in Minnesota Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The rose is one of the most cultivated and popular flowers in the world. Myths and poems are attached to roses which have been popular for centuries. They are prized for their colors, beautiful scents, and size of blooms, from miniature to large. But as any rose grower knows, roses also have a history of being hard to care for and, of course, all forms have thorns. But developments in rose breeding have minimized many of problems associated with growing roses and maximized their attractive qualities. This article will explain how to grow beautiful roses successfully in Minnesota. Roses have had a reputation as high maintenance and difficult to grow in Minnesota. Historically, this has been true of the beautiful “hybrid tea” varieties. Remember the “Minnesota tip?” Hybrid garden roses are still grown in Minnesota and are more susceptible to Minnesota winters. However, over the years, rose breeders have come up with hardy roses for northern climates. “Hardy” roses grow in USDA Zones 3 or 4, need no covering through the winter, are disease resistant, require minimal pest and disease control and bloom profusely. Hardy shrub roses have been developed to meet these criteria. The shrub rose of today is a sturdy, minimal care plant. Shrub roses have excellent disease resistance and are low maintenance with reblooming flowers all summer. But to receive the most from a rose, plant it in full sun (6-8 hours) with moist, well-drained soil. Roses should be planted after the last spring frost or in the fall, six weeks before frost. Prepare a hole wide enough for the roots. Roses don’t like to be crowded so plant 3 feet apart to allow for growth. A general fertilizer or specialty rose fertilizer can be used. Fertilize in the spring to encourage new growth. Stop fertilizing in late July so the rose will begin to harden off. This prepares the plant for the winter cold. Some roses can be grown in containers. Create a hole in the pot twice as wide as the roots, spread the roots and fill pot with soil. Make sure to water thoroughly. Some roses tolerate some shade, but no rose will bloom in full shade. Shade will also make the rose more susceptible to pests and disease such as black spot, powdery mildew, and downy mildew. There are remedies for these problems, and some varieties are genetically resistant to mildew. Common pests that affect roses are Japanese Beetles, aphids, and spider mites. A garden center will have products to remedy these pests but read the product label for use. Also, read the label on the rose bush when purchasing, for information about their resistance to the above diseases and where the rose plant will grow the best. Research the American Rose Society’s lists for which roses grow in your location. Unfortunately, deer are also rose fans. They like to munch on rose bushes despite the thorns. A fenced barrier may be the only effective deterrent. Gardeners love fragrant roses. Fragrant rose petals are often used to make perfumes. Unfortunately, with a focus on disease resistance, hardiness, ease of planting and other growing characteristics, breeding roses for fragrance took a back seat. Not anymore! Easy Elegance “Yellow Brick” has a beautiful aroma and Knock Out rose has a faint floral smell. Plant these varieties along a deck or walkway to enjoy the fragrance. These are some of the breeds of roses that are successfully grown in the north: Knock-Out-Rose - This rose comes in a variety of colors, reblooms all summer and doesn’t require dead heading. This said, your rose garden will look tidy if some dead heading is done. This rose is a medium size shrub so will fit in a border or around annuals and other perennials. Knock-Out-Rose Drift Rose - This is a recent variety of shrub rose. Bushes have tiny flowers and are a good ground cover. Easy to incorporate in a border or on a hill. Easy Elegance Rose - This rose is known for its fragrance and easy-care qualities. They are bred to be disease resistance and tolerate windy conditions. Given a sunny spot in a garden this rose will thrive and reward the gardener with a wonderful fragrance. Cuthbert Grant Shrub Rose Several years ago, the University of Minnesota introduced the Northern Accents series which includes ‘Ole,’ ‘Sven’ and ‘Lena.’ These are “ever-blooming” shrub roses that tolerate Minnesota winters well. The University Minnesota Extension continues to be part of the ongoing “American Rose Trials for Sustainability.” This project’s goal was to identify roses that had a scent while grown under minimal care conditions and to produce roses that would survive without pesticides, fertilizer, and winter with only mulch and snow covers. Roses that would not need to be tipped, buried or use a Styrofoam cap. Information gained in these trials informs the work of rose breeders. A rose is an attractive companion to borders of evergreens, perennial beds of baby’s breath and annuals like verbena. Plant one of the above varieties to enjoy all the favorable qualities of a rose bush. For inspiration in choosing roses for your garden or just to enjoy their beauty, visit the two rose gardens at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. These gardens display 400 varieties of hybrid garden roses and hardy shrub roses. Credits: University of Minnesota Extension, extension.umn.edu University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign, extension.illinois.edu Minnesota State Horticultural Society; https://northerngardener.org/great-plants-for-northern-gardens-day-11-hardy-roses/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Gail Maifeld (2,3)

< Back Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens, but as the Finns say, “You plan ahead beforehand”. Indeed, we are going to spend the next six months talking about a variety of native evergreens, welcome additions of green to our prolonged white winter landscapes. Of these various evergreens, balsam fir is a frequent forest highlight in central to northern Minnesota. It is native from Minnesota east to Maine and south into the Appalachians as far as West Virginia. It ranges from 45 to 70 feet in height, occasionally sprinting up to 90 feet. It has a distinctive narrow conic crown of long dark green needle-like leaves. Balsam fir will form 1 ½ to 3-inch seed cones which are long and dark purple, turning brown before dispersing its seeds in September. It is a member of the pine family (Pinaceae) and is the traditional Christmas tree. So, beware if your neighbor is spotted on your property in early December with an ax. If you wish to add some winter green to your landscape with balsam fir, make sure your climate is suitable. Balsam fir prefer cooler weather, ideally with a mean annual temperature of 40 degrees F. Practically speaking this means central to Northern Minnesota. Further south, make sure to protect it from the summer heat. Planting in moist well-drained soil on the north or east side of buildings would be a good idea. Balsam fir in the White Mountains] This penchant for shady, cooler areas can be helpful planting in otherwise difficult north or east courtyards, creating a cool, afternoon shaded site in the warmer months. Balsam fir’s ornamental aspects are substantive. The needles are pleasantly aromatic, soft, dark green, having a silver underside. The tree does tolerate partial shade well. If you are not looking for a 60-foot tree in your patio, Abies balsamea dwarf cultivars are available. They can serve as elegant evergreens for a cool, afternoon shade site, usually ranging in size from 3 to 6 feet. They can be used as a low screen or backdrop in difficult north or east facing courtyards. Check with your nursery for “Weeping Larry”, “Piccolo” or “Nana” cultivars of balsam fir. Needle like leaves of Abies balsamea Photo credits: Jeff Bisbe, treesandshrubsonline.org (1), www.treesandshrubsonline.org (2)