< Back Red Pine (Pinus resinosa): Star of the North Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener What tree is as Minnesotan as hot dish or dessert bars? It’s red pine, of course. This state tree is not for the small lot but will be a striking addition to the larger lot or farmstead. Read more about this stately native in this article, the last of Jim Lakin’s series on native trees for Minnesota gardeners. It’s the state tree of L‘Étoile du Nord , which, of course, is the state motto of Minnesota. Indeed, red pine is as Minnesotan as hot dish and dessert bars. So where does this venerable conifer fit into the landscaping picture? It probably is not the best choice for a small lot, growing 65 to 115 feet in height with about a 3-foot trunk. In larger lots or farmsteads, however, stands of the tree it can make a striking addition or serve as an admirable windbreak. It is native to the Upper Midwest with a range from Newfoundland west to Manitoba and south to Pennsylvania with populations down the Appalachian mountain range. It is sometimes called “Norway pine.” It is hypothesized that this name came from early Norwegian settlers mistaking it for the Scotch pine found back home. At least that’s what the Swedes say! a stand of red pine Red pine grows in full sunlight, shooting up straight and true. This growth feature made it especially attractive to lumbermen of the early 19 th century, leading to the great lumber baron fortunes of that period (and the despoliation of countless acres of Minnesota woodland). Interestingly, red pine is self-pruning. Thus, you don’t see dead branches below the canopy in forests. The needles are long, dark yellow-green and brittle. Pine cones are classic 1 ½ to 3 ½ inch long and broad. The bark forms reddish-brown plates as the tree matures; thus, the name red pine. reddish brown bark of red pine In sighting red pine, be aware that you may get by with part sun, but it is quite intolerant of full shade. It is hardy from Zones 2 through 5, so that means all of Minnesota. It will grow on nutrient-poor, sandy soil unfavorable to most species. It likes average moisture in well-drained loam. Although it is grown, plantation style in straight rows for the lumber industry, red pine is also abundant in our northern forests. It serves as nesting habitat for eagles as well as other birds. In cold, northern climates, red pine has few problems. However, in warmer climates as seen in the southern part of the state, it may fall prey to a number of insect pests and diseases. Needle cast, needle blight, root rots, bark cancer and rusts may be issues. Budworms, sawflies, pine beetles, tussock moth and pine needle miners can plague the tree. red pine cone So, if you have the appropriate site, consider red pine. A healthy, established stand will be a stately joy for many years. Life spans up to 500 years have been reported for this hardy Star of the North! Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Hens and Chicks Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener Sometimes referred to as a “roof Housesleek,” because they would often grow on houses, Hens and Chicks are a delightful perennial even if just grown in your garden. Read Master Gardener Gail Maifeld’s article for more on why Hens and Chicks are perfect for that dry, sunny spot in your yard. Native to Europe and Africa, Hens and Chicks are sometimes referred to as a roof Houseleek as they were grown on houses. Historically, the plant was found along stone walls, slate shingled roofs, and areas of poor sandy soil. The succulent grows as a mat in full sun and is also drought tolerant and deer resistant. Leaves are arranged in rosettes with the center one being the hen. Chicks form around the hen after the bloom fades. Although not planted for the blooms, the daisy like flowers can be light pink, reddish-purple, and pale green. There are several varieties to choose from: Sempervivum Arachnoideum: (cobweb houseleek) – Tips of the leaves are entwined with hairy fibers that appear to be cobwebs Pale green blooms Zones 5-8 Sempervivum Tectorum – Small rosettes quickly forming a 6”-10” mat Flowers may or may not form Reddish leaves and blooms Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Atropureum - This variety has dark reddish-purple leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Limelight – This variety has yellow-green, pink tipped leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Pacific Hawk – This variety has dark red leaves edged with silvery hairs Zones 3-8. Overwatering can lead to root rot so check the soil around the plant before watering. The varieties can be house plants but require a cactus potting soil or sand added to regular potting soil. The plant is divided by separating the new rosettes and rooting them. Blooms of Hens and Chicks do not have a recognizable scent. After the bloom fades it can be cut off or allowed to die back and form compost. Hens and chicks are a low maintenance, drought tolerant plant, and will add interest to a full sun, sandy soil location. For that problematic sunny spot that needs some attention - plant Hens and Chicks. Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2)

< Back Shoreline Planting Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Aaah…lake life in Minnesota is in full swing! As we motor, paddle or splash around, notice the shorelines of our lakes, rivers, streams or ponds. Some are full of natural, native plantings, while others are neatly fashioned by lawns or riprap rock. This article explores why we care about our Minnesota shoreline plantings and what are best practices for the homeowners and the plants and animals living there. Shoreline Plantings Are Important According to the Minnesota DNR, Minnesota has 11,842 lakes, and 69,200 miles of natural rivers and streams, along with 13 million acres of lakes, streams and wetlands, totaling about one quarter of the area of the entire state. As we relax in the cool, summer lakes, ponds or rivers of Minnesota, we gain heightened awareness of the reasons to protect, preserve or restore the shorelines: The vegetation provides critical habitat for our local creatures and plants; Many water edges are susceptible to erosion due to slopes and/or wave action; Runoff from the shore may need filtering before entering the water; and, Plantings contribute to the scenic beauty of the water's edge. Shoreline plantings offer the following benefits: Roots hold soil and help stabilize slopes by trapping and using water that would otherwise run off. Roots increase soil porosity, allowing water to infiltrate rather than run off. Vegetation filters out nutrients and pesticides that could otherwise reach a lake or stream and cause algal blooms or excessive plant growth. Filter strips are vegetated areas of land next to shorelines that help minimize runoff to a lake or stream. The most effective filter strips include a variety of low plants, shrubs and trees, preferably native or existing vegetation. Photo Credit: Mary Gadek Shoreline Restoration Restore your shoreline to achieve the discussed benefits by doing some or all the following steps: If starting with bare ground, use a plastic free erosion control blanket for slopes and close to shores. Utilize mass plantings of trees, shrubs and plants to more quickly stabilize the soil. Generally, native perennials are recommended for their resilience and adaptability. Have awareness of the considerations of turfgrass near shorelines: https://extension.umn.edu/shoreland-properties/caring-shoreland-lawns-and-gardens Minimize use of riprap to areas where use of rock is the only solution, and with a gravel base to encourage plants to establish within the rocks. Suggestion if utilizing rip rap: add some cuttings of shrub willow, dogwood or elderberries in the spring, with the cuttings establishing roots in the moist soil. https://extension.umn.edu/lakes-and-wetlands/shoreland-properties#building-and-landscape-planning-1904260 For erosion or minimizing wake activity at the water’s edge, stake down plastic free coir logs, willow wattles or other brush bundles. https://bsalwmp.org/shoreline-stabilization/ A resource for suggested Minnesota trees and bushes: https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/watermgmt_section/shoreland/shoreline-trees-shrubs.pdf A resource for suggested Minnesota flowers, grasses and plants: https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/watermgmt_section/shoreland/shoreline-herbaceous.pdf Non-native plantings are just fine to use, especially if they provide garden benefits, such as erosion control with quick rooting and extending pollinator options to the garden. https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/whats-name-non-native-species-not-same-invasives For both native and non-native plants, avoid adding any invasive species, (defined as species that are not native to Minnesota AND cause economic, social or environmental harm or harm to human health). See the MN DNR list: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/index.html Together we can take care of and enjoy the extensive shorelines of Minnesota and the infinite beauty! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek

< Back The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Who should plant bulbs? You! Why plant bulbs? Bulbs can provide color all in all three seasons and many bulbs will return year after year. Most bulbs prefer full sun but some bulbs even thrive in shade! What are bulbs and what kinds to plant? What we loosely call bulbs are actually a group containing: true bulbs (Tulips, lilies), corms (Crocus), rhizomes (Callas, Iris) and tuberous roots (Dahlias, Tuberous begonias). All of these plants have a self-contained food storage system that has adapted to living underground. Bulbs are either hardy (perennial) or tender (need to be dug and stored) and this will determine where you plant them. Most people are familiar with Tulips, Daffodils and Lilies. All of these come in early, mid-and late season, as well as short medium and tall. There are a host of small bulbs that are often overlooked. Many of these will grow well in areas under trees because they flower before the tree leaves out. Where should I plant bulbs? Most bulbs should be planted in full sun. They don't like wet feet. Most bulbs will do well in soils ranging from sandy to clay. Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Trillium, Tuberous begonias and Martagon lilies are bulbs that will grow in the shade. How do I plant bulbs? Dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb's circumference. Amend the soil with organic matter. You may have heard of putting bone meal in the hole, don't do this unless you have a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) that shows your soil needs calcium and phosphorous. According to the University of Colorado, bone meal will only be available to plants in soil that has a pH level of 7 or lower. Dakota County soils tend to be naturally high in phosphorous. Make sure to plant bulbs deeper if your soil is sandy. Putting a wire barrier over the bulbs may deter digging critters. It is recommended to plant odd numbers of bulbs for aesthetics. Smaller bulbs can be planted on top of larger bulbs, rather like a fruit cake. When do I plant bulbs? Bulbs can be planted from late September through late October in Minnesota. If you are dividing bulbs, wait for the foliage to dry, but you can move them immediately. Some bulbs, such as lilies, can be moved “in the green”, as long as they are done blooming, and are taken care of through any dry, hot weather. If you wish to overwinter tender bulbs, plant them where it will be easy to dig them in the fall. For more information go to https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes For information on growing bulbs indoors go to https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors . Happy Planting! Photo credits: Carolyn Plank (1), Deborah Snow (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Harvesting Seeds for Native Prairie Restoration Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Dakota County Parks and Recreation is restoring the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. This article explains the how and why of native prairie restoration through the experience of Master Gardeners in Dakota County. Learn how you, too, can help wildlife and the environment by developing your own “pocket prairie” garden. Dakota County Parks and Recreation is attempting to restore the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. The science of prairie restoration has evolved over the last century as more is learned about how to do so effectively. Why should we be interested in prairie restoration? This excerpt from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explains why: [It] buffers and creates connections between isolated native prairie remnants, thereby making the larger prairie landscape more resilient to changing environmental conditions including climate change, pesticides, and invasive species [Helps to “sequester carbon,” (stabilizing carbon in the ground rather than in the atmosphere] Promotes water infiltration and storage (recharges groundwater, flood control, reduces erosion and nutrient runoff) Provides places for people to explore and learn about prairies Provides habitat for a variety of animals, from deer to damselflies Connects people—physically, intellectually, emotionally, and spiritually—with prairie's past, present, and future Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. In Dakota County, prairie restoration is done by collecting and using native seeds from its own “remnant prairies” (true native prairies) (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. “Restored native prairies” are prairies that have been restored with seeds from true native prairies or those plants’ descendants. Recently, Sam Talbot, a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, met with Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) to collect native plant seeds from “restored prairies.” One group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park and the other, at Whitetail Woods Regional Park. Note - seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. The purpose of this particular outing was to collect seed for various uses by the DCMGV. The seeds from these older restored prairies are not used as a source for new restorations so DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the free Seed Library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow . The rest of the seeds will be grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the group’s May Plant Sale. Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. In the fall, it is much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. On this day, Sam had arrived earlier and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup Plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie Cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild Bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into the envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he will host another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” You also have a role to play in restoring native prairies and improving our environment. You can plant a "pocket prairie" in your yard. Even small prairie gardens can provide habitat for pollinators and other wildlife and give you the joy of a beautiful natural landscape. Each month, this publication has been and will continue to feature native plants that you can grow in your garden. To learn more about native prairies and native gardening, go the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site noted above. Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1, 2, 3)

< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2

< Back Jicama – Not Just in the South Anymore What starchy, tuberous vegetable has the refreshing crispness of a fresh apple, abundant nutrients and fiber, all with a deliciously low glycemic index? It’s the unassuming, turnip-shaped jicama (pronounced híh-ka-ma), sometimes called “Mexican potato” or “yam bean.” Read on to learn more about this interesting vegetable and a pleasant surprise for Minnesota gardeners. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener The jicama plant belongs to the genus Pachyrhizus and is a native of Central and South America. It has been a cultivated vegetable there and in southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The seeds, which range in color from pale to dark brown, have also been cultivated for their high content of rotenone, a toxin used as a pesticide, an insecticide, and a piscicide (fish killer). (Remember the 1950’s B-movie horror flick “Creature from the Black Lagoon”?) In fact, nearly all parts of the jicama plant - its bluish green vining foliage, beautiful bluish purple and white flowers, the subsequent lime green seed pods, and even the light brown peel of the tuber - are known to contain rotenone and should not be eaten. The only safely edible part is the white flesh of the tuber. From seed to harvest, the length of maturity for jicama is 4-9 months. After transplanting seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained loamy to sandy soil warmed to at least 70 degrees, the plant can be trained up a trellis and fed a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer monthly to keep it thriving. For the best root production, flowers should be removed at an early stage. As with nearly any root vegetable, it’s possible for the curious gardener to check on the size of the growing tubers by pulling soil away temporarily. They should be covered up though, to resume growth. Jicama tubers must be allowed to remain in the garden as long as possible, however, the plants will not tolerate frost. Record late season warmth has produced the largest and heaviest yields for commercially grown jicama. So, why feature a vegetable whose digs (pun intended) are in the subtropics? Why tempt Minnesotans with a food item they can find only in a grocery store and not in their own backyard gardens? Wonder no more - jicama seeds can now be found locally and grown locally! Pachyrhizus erosus is a cultivar that produces a smaller root but has the shortest maturity of approximately 150 days. By starting seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost and continuing with the above growing instructions, it is possible to produce jicama tubers of your very own. Photo Credits: Photo 1, www.ourfood.nl (All Creative Commons) Photo 2, Powo.science.kew.org (All Creative Commons)

< Back Deciphering Seed Catalogs Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! But there is so much information packed into a seed catalog it can be hard to interpret the abbreviations and array of plant varieties. This article will help you to decipher your seed catalogs so that you can choose the best plants for your garden. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! There is so much information packed into a seed catalog! Most people have no problem with the catalogs’ rapturous descriptions of flowers or produce. After all, the catalogs are full of (probably 'enhanced') photos! More bewildering are the icons next to the photos. A good catalog has a key that explains what each icon means. They might have a drawing of a circle that is half dark and half light. They should also explain how many hours of direct sun that icon indicates, perhaps 4-6 hours. The key may be at the front of the catalog, or at the bottom of the page. Plant descriptions can have letters next to them. For instance, tomatoes may have the letters VFM. This means that variety has resistance to verticillium, fusarium wilt and nematodes. Without those letters, describing a plant as “disease resistant” is useless. Tomatoes will be listed as determinate (bush) or indeterminate (vining). You may find the letters OP (open pollinated), F1 (first generation hybrid) or X (a 'cross') in its name. F2 is a hybrid that can only be propagated vegetatively. These letters are important if you wish to save seeds. The OP seeds will breed true, but not the others. Flowers will have 'days to bloom' and/or 'bloom season' in their description, and veggies will have days to maturity or harvest. Note: 'days to harvest' for plants started indoors count from the day it is planted out. These numbers are based on the seed company's test gardens; choosing northern-grown seeds or plants, will make those numbers more accurate in Dakota County. The description or icon will tell you when to direct-sow the seeds or when to start them under lights. The latter requires you to know the average date of the last or first frost. Dakota County's dates are May 8th and October 10th respectively. It will tell you how many seeds are in a package, how far apart to plant, soil conditions (alkaline or acidic, clay, sandy, loamy) and watering requirements. Left-over seeds can be donated to a seed library, shared with friends or saved in a dry jar in the refrigerator. There will be shipping charges on the packages of seeds, so try to order all at once, or with friends, or with a heavier item. If you are getting perennials, make sure to choose plants that will grow in our U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) zone. Dakota County is zone 4. Some catalogs “stretch” the range of zones, so try to compare what different catalogs claim about the same plant or seed. Some catalogs include a USDA map and perhaps a table of temperature ranges. The catalog should list the scientific name of the plant, because common names are frequently shared by several unrelated plants. On-line catalogs will have simplified descriptions, but also have links to click to open up more information. They may also have customer reviews which are very helpful! Photo credit: www.ag.ndsu.edu (1)

< Back Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): A High Note on Any Trellis Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you looking for a beautiful, native vine for a sunny fence or pergola in your yard? Consider the glorious Trumpet Vine. This article reveals the many reasons why Trumpet Vine may be a delightful and pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. A garden fence, an isolated trellis, these are structures crying out for a luxurious vine to twine upon. One elegant choice is the Trumpet Vine. It initially grew in the southern Midwest but has adapted and naturalized northward to southern and central Minnesota, where, in the right conditions, can do very well indeed. It generally is hardy to -25 0 F. So, if you are planting Up North, a little winter mulching is a good idea. In the lower Midwest its growth can be vigorous. It climbs by rootlets that form along its stems and trunk. Trumpet vine can root at any spot its stems touch the ground. It also spreads by underground rhizomes. Here in the colder north, this proclivity usually is lessened unless in an exceptionally favorable site. Yet be aware of its rambunctious nature. summer trumpet vine blooms When planting trumpet vine, full sun is a necessity for flowering. Usually, 8 to 10 hours of sun is necessary to coax blooming. We have some planted to the north of the house and it gets at most 5 to 6 hours of direct sun. Growth has been less than impressive. Soil usually is not a major consideration, although ironically, if the soil is too rich it may not bloom. Instead, the plant converts nitrogen into leaves, not flowers. When fertilizing, use low or no nitrogen, emphasizing phosphorous to encourage blooming. Consider bone meal as a great source of slow-release phosphorus. Another reason for not blooming is immaturity. Trumpet vine takes several years to flower, especially if grown from seed. So, be patient. Speaking of patience, recall the old adage, applicable to so many perennials, that they “sleep, creep and leap”. You can count on this with trumpet vine. So be cautious when siting the vine. It can be spectacular growing up a tree, post or fence but it is vigorous. Planting it next to the house can lead to disaster as it can ruin siding and invade the foundation. foliage can be quite luxurious Trumpet vine flowers are spectacular orange to yellow to occasionally red. The blooming season can extend through most of the summer. They are visited and pollinated by hummingbirds in the day and sphinx moths in the night. As you might imagine, with such a vigorous grower, the foliage is lush. So, if you are looking for a sunny summer focal point in your garden landscape, trumpet vine would be an excellent choice. Photo Credit: iNaturalist, Gary W. House (1), Publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back Wild Hyacinth (Camassia scilloides): Apollo’s Memento Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Wild Hyacinth is a Midwestern native that deserves a place in your garden. It is one of the few natives that propagate by bulbs. Wild Hyacinth grows in the wild in moist prairies, savannas and woodland edges. Once established, the bulbs are fairly long-lived, blooming reliably in the spring. Read this article to learn more about the value of Wild Hyacinth in your yard. Hyacinth or Hyacinthus was a pretty boy of Sparta, so much so that he attracted the attention of the Sun God, Apollo. Apparently, they had a great time together until an errant throw of Apollo’s discus did the poor lad in. So, legend has it, the sorrowing Apollo created the Hyacinth flower in his memory. Of course, kill-joy horticulturalists have pointed out that the described Apolline flower looked nothing like the modern hyacinth. Nevertheless, the North American native hyacinth reflects its divine heritage when in bloom. Wild Hyacinth is native to the Eastern and Midwestern United States, hardy through Zone 4. It is one of the few natives that propagate by bulbs. Most bulbs are “exotic” such as tulips ( Tulipa spp.), daffodils ( Narcissus spp.) and most commercially available hyacinths ( Hyacinthus spp.) Although the North American species of hyacinth are, like their Eastern Mediterranean brethren, in the asparagus family (Asparagaceae) the two Midwestern natives are of a separate genus. The bladelike foliage of wild hyacinth appears in the early spring, quickly forming a spike of numerous buds. In May through early June a perfusion of blue or white flowers, set off by prominent yellow stamens. Since their blooms are ephemeral, they do well intermixed with other natives, providing a kaleidoscope of blooms throughout the season. Good companions include its sister, Southern Wild Hyacinth ( C. angusta ) which blooms a bit later in spring, Midland Shooting Star ( Dodecatheon meadia ), Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea) and the ever-dependable Wild Geranium ( Geranium maculatum ). Wild Hyacinth grows in the wild in moist prairies, savannas and woodland edges. It flowers best in full sun but does well in part shade. It prefers hummus-rich slightly acidic soil. With adequate moisture, however it usually tolerates the slightly clay soil so prevalent in Minnesota. Once established, the bulbs are fairly long-lived repeatedly blooming in spring for years. Although the plant will reseed, it also propagates from bulb offshoots. If you are thinking about growing from seed, beware! Wild Hyacinth is notoriously slow to germinate and even slower to grow to maturity. You’ll be better off ordering bulbs from a commercial grower. It’s best to plant the bulbs in the summer or fall. The plant should emerge the following spring. After blooming, the basal leaves will turn yellow in mid-summer and wither away. The plant will remain dormant for the rest of the growing season. Over several seasons the plants should multiply forming a very attractive colony. Wild Hyacinth is a nice addition to a pollinator garden. It attracts butterflies, wasps, moths and native bees. The bulbs are edible and were a significant food source for many Native American Tribes and Early Settlers. I wouldn’t recommend foraging for them, however, as the bulbs are virtually indistinguishable from Zigadenus elegans, A.K.A. Mountain Death Camus, which contains a very potent and lethal toxin! Photo Credit: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons)(1), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (2)

< Back Cool Season Vegetables for Spring Planting Marjory Blare, Master Gardener There are a number of “cool season” vegetables that can be planted outdoors in early spring. Get a head-start on your planting by starting your seeds indoors and planting them out when the temperature is right. Cool season vegetables can be planted out much earlier than, for example, tomatoes or peppers. You can seed indoors as much as six to eight weeks before the last frost date! Read this article for valuable information about seeding and planting “cool season” vegetables. Cool Season Vegetable Wisdom Here are some tips for growing “cool season vegetables:” The best way to get an early harvest is to prepare your garden in the fall. But if you didn’t, you can make up for it by first cleaning up any debris and then warming the soil with black plastic. If you want to get out in the garden ASAP, row covers and low tunnels can help to create a warmer growing environment for your plants. The last frost for Dakota county is around May 2nd. The northern half of Dakota county is zone 5a and the southern is 4b, make sure your seeds are rated for these zones. Specific crops vary, but the ideal temperatures for cool-season vegetables are in the 50°- 60° range for the first month of growth. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature. Use the right set-up to start seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#types-of-grow-lights-2651610 and visit the Dakota County Master Gardeners YouTube channel for videos on seed starting. Starting spring crops under lights can provide a few weeks of optimal growing temperatures. The transplants will be able to photosynthesize better because of a greater leaf area. Your plants will usually mature more before temperatures get too hot. Older plants are better able to withstand feeding damage from early spring insect pests like flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Cool season vegetables such as Arugula, Chinese cabbage, Bok choy, Peas, and Parsnips can be direct-seeded as soon as the soil is workable. “Omero” cabbage Chinese Cabbage, Bok Choy, Spinach and Swiss chard can be started under lights or direct-seeded. Gurney’s ‘Goliath’ Spinach Cauliflower is best planted mid-summer for a fall crop. Harden-off your seedlings before planting them out: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860 There are many edible, cold-tolerant flowers, and herbs, that can be started under lights. Take a look at the chart below for some great ideas. Vegetable Days to Harvest Start seeds Transplant Varieties Broccoli 85-100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Green Magic, ‘Super Dome’, ‘Jade Cross’ Brussels Sprouts < 100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Gustus’, ‘Hestia’, Cabbage 78 22-Feb - 4-April 4-April - 2-May ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Tendersweet’, ‘Omero’ Collards 60-80 8-Feb - 7-Mar 4- April ‘Tiger’, ‘Ole Timey Blue’, ‘Cascade Glaze’ Green Onions 8-10 weeks 25-Jan - 8-Feb 4-April ‘Feast’, ‘Deep Purple’, ‘White Spear’ Kale 25-65 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Rainbow Lacinato’, ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Black Magic’ ‘Toscano’ Kohlrabi 45-60 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Kolibri’, ‘Kossak’, ‘Purple Vienna’ Leeks 80-145 8-Feb - 22 Feb 18-April ‘Tivi’, ‘Electra’, ‘Titian’ ‘Varna’ Lettuce 30-70 29-Feb - 14-Mar 4-April - 11-April ‘Esmerelda’, ‘Little Gem’ ‘Red Salad Bowl’, *Find more information on dates at: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html For Master Gardener-recommended varieties of many vegetables and flowers, here is the link to 42 years of University of Minnesota Extension seeds trials: Tivi Leeks Now is the right time to plan for starting seeds indoors! Happy gardening! Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Marjory Blare, Photo 2 – Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension, Photos 3 – 5 – Marjory Blare

< Back MICRO FOOD Gardening Intrigued by the idea of growing your greens indoors this winter? Gail Maifeld reviews a book that explains how to practice Micro Food Gardening successfully in your kitchen. Jen McGuinness Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener A fascinating introduction to MICRO FOOD Gardening. This type of gardening is for the tiny space gardener, roof top gardener, or small lot garden which focuses on varieties bred for small spaces. MICRO FOOD Gardening: Plant plans and plants for growing fruits and veggies in tiny spaces includes the usual gardening care info about soil choices, watering, seeds, and the use of fertilizers. This form of gardening is all about plants that stay compact and are bred to be grown on the kitchen table, windowsill, or window box. Look for nursery grown plants that specify container gardening. There is a chapter on repurposing pots, planters and containers in unique ways. A strawberry pyramid of three cake pans, or reusing an aquarium are suggested. Each example includes a list of supplies and assembly steps. Many of the projects focus on specific themes such as a salsa garden or a bicycle basket lettuce garden Organized with highlighted lists of supplies and many pictures. An extensive resource list, a table of contents & index result in an easily used book. MICRO FOOD Gardening is an entertaining option for those who live in tiny spaces. Photo Credit: Book Cover