< Back What Can Alliums Do For Your Garden? As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. In this article, Marjory Blare explains why you should consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You may be familiar with varieties of allium used for cooking (for example, onion, garlic, scallion). But there are many ornamental alliums with many different features and colors. Read this article to learn more about the virtues of alliums. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. You might consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You’ll be surprised at the range and variety of these members of the onion family. Alliums are plants that are in the onion family. Included in that family are the cultivated onion , garlic , scallion , shallot , leek , and chives . But, in addition to these tasty varieties there are many ornamental alliums. Alliums are a valuable addition to any garden because they are attractive to pollinators and they are close to pest-free. Rabbits, squirrels and deer don’t like them. They occasionally get downy mildew and allium leaf miners, but that’s about it for disease problems. Alliums are drought, heat and cold tolerant. They do need well-drained soil because if they sit in soggy soil, they will rot. They need full to part sun, and aren’t too picky about pH, although slightly acid is preferable. Some varieties are hardy to USDA zone 3! Various species can bloom every season except winter. You’ll find many varieties in on-line catalogs. For more about growing Alliums look at this article in The Spruce. Allium foliage will yellow and die, (sometimes before the blossoms are done), but you can plant them in a ground cover or among Hostas to hide them. Plant bulbous varieties in the fall, the shallow-rooted varieties such as chives (A. schoenoprasum) can be divided any time. Plant Alliums as surprise ‘pops’ of color throughout the garden, or in rows for a formal effect. Alliums grow well in container gardens – plant them in the fall, leave them out all winter, and they grow in the spring! Unlike some perennials, most Allium will bloom the first year. When planting, don’t let the bulbs touch each other. Plant at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb, and a bit of bone meal in the planting hole helps. Leaves of Allium can range from slender round blades to broad and flat, and they can be green to blue-green. Flowers range in color from yellow (A. moly) and white (A. karativiense ‘Ivory Queen’ which has broad flat blue green leaves) and on through the spectrum of pink to deep violet. There is even a blue one (A. caeruleum). The shapes of the flowers can be ball-shaped ( Allium aflatunense ), or egg-shaped (A. sphaerocephalon), nodding (A. cernum), or a display that looks like fireworks (A. schubertii)! Sizes range from the inches-tall fairy/alpine-garden sized (A. oreophilum), all the way up to the giant ‘Globe Master’ (A. giganteum) which can get up to 4 feet tall! In addition to all of the above, there are many Alliums native to Minnesota: 1) A. canadense (Wild Garlic, Meadow Garlic) 2) A. cernum (Nodding Wild Onion) 3) A. schoenprasum (Chinese chives) 4) A. stellatum (Wild Prairie Onion) 5) A. textile (White Wild Onion) 6) A. tricoccum (Wild Leek, aka Ramps or Three Seeded Leek) 7) A. tubersoum (Garlic Chives) 8) A. ursinum (Bear Garlic) Allium have many virtues, interesting traits and colors; play around with them when you design or update your garden. Have Fun! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3), Dreamstime (4)

< Back Growing Ginger Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Read this article to learn the steps to grow ginger successfully. Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Here are the steps to grow ginger: Choose the right ginger: You can buy ginger roots from the grocery store or garden center. Look for pieces that are plump, with firm skin, and have several eye buds, which are small yellowish tips on the surface of the ginger. Prepare the soil: Ginger prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the ginger: Cut the ginger into small pieces, making sure each piece has at least one eye bud. Plant each piece about 2 inches deep, with the eye facing up, and space them about 6 inches apart. Water regularly: Ginger needs to be watered regularly, but make sure not to overwater it as it can cause the root to rot. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide warm temperatures: Ginger grows best in warm temperatures. Ideally, the temperature should be between 70 - 80 °F during the day and 60 -70°F at night. Provide shaded light: Ginger prefers partial shade and indirect sunlight. If growing indoors, place the ginger in a bright room with indirect sunlight. Harvest ginger: Ginger takes about 8 – 10 months to mature. Once the stems begin to turn yellow and die, it is time to harvest. Carefully dig up the ginger roots without damaging them. By following these steps, you can grow delicious ginger at home! Photo Credit: www.flavorexplosions.com (all creative commons)

< Back Growing Daffodils Sometimes referred to as narcissus, daffodils nodding yellow, white, or variegated heads, are true harbingers of spring. Daffodils are a colorful addition to your garden with few basic steps. Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener How do daffodils grow? Daffodils are a spring-flowering plant that grows from a bulb planted in the fall. In spring the bulbs send up leaves that form buds, each of which develops into a flower or two depending on the variety. The outside of the flower is known as the perianth. This can be a different color than the inside trumpet or corona. Beneath the ground the bulb absorbs nutrients manufactured by the leaves after flowering, which can go on for 7 weeks or longer. The leaves fade, drop to the ground, and the plant goes dormant. Cut the leaves off only after they have fallen to the ground and are brown. Where can daffodils be planted for success? Daffodils do best in full sun, although they can tolerate some shade. If planting under a tree, consider removing lower branches to allow for light. Daffodils require well-drained soil. Rocks or clay soil should be removed and replaced with a mix of quality soil, which should be 1 part peat moss and 2 parts soil. Dig up an area to the depth of 12 inches. Using a shovel loosen soil at the bottom of the trench or hole. Mix new soil into the bottom to create a bed of loose soil for the bulb roots to form. Fill the opening to 8 inches and arrange the bulbs 3-4 inches apart with the wide end of the bulb down and gently press into the soil. Gently cover with soil and water. A 10-10-10 commercial fertilizer or organic fertilizer such as bone meal, blood meal or cow manure can be added. Where can I buy daffodil bulbs? Garden centers, online retailers, and mail order garden catalogs are the usual sources. Bulbs that have a soft base, dark brown or black coloring should not be purchased. Look at the mail order bulbs carefully and return any that are bad. Plant the bulbs as soon as you purchase them or receive them in the mail. Bulbs are alive so heat and humidity can cause damage. Reputable dealers will have the bulbs in a cool well- ventilated area. Mail order catalogs will ship during your areas best planting period, which is mid August thru September. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks to from roots so early October is the latest time to plant. How do I care for daffodils? Water newly planted bulbs frequently during the fall. Gardeners frequently forget to water, which is needed for root development. If spring rains are not adequate, begin watering. Cut back on watering as the foliage fades. Buds begin developing on the bulbs; so begin watering in late summer and continue through the fall. Mulch prevents weeds from growing around the bulbs but if the bulbs are naturalized, mulch is not practical. Fertilize in the spring before new growth appears. Avoid touching new growth with fertilizer and water immediately after the application to wash the fertilizer down to the roots. Daffodils do not need staking but deadheading will result in a more attractive bed. Daffodils are generally insect and disease free. Daffodils make a colorful early spring bouquet. Some are sweet scented. Harvest the flowers just as the bud begins to open and place immediately in water. Do not mix daffodils with other flowers since daffodils release a slime that is toxic. For long lasting bouquets add 5 drops of bleach to the water. With a minimum of garden preparation and plant maintenance, daffodils will reward the gardener with colorful spring joy.

< Back Yes, You Can Grow Shade-Loving Plants Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Many people think that shade just creates problems for the garden. This article explains how wrong that can be. Read on to learn more about which trees, shrubs and perennials can prosper in your shady garden. You may consider your garden to be “shady,” but is it in full shade or part shade? Full shade is defined as an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sun per day. Part shade is defined as a garden that receives 4 to 6 hours per day. How much sun (take into account reflected or filtered sun) does your garden get? The easiest way to measure sunlight exposure is to simply observe your planting area every 30 minutes or so throughout the daylight hours over a week or two. Use those observations to determine the average amount of time the area receives sunlight, dappled sunlight, or shade. When you have determined the average amount of sunlight an area receives, you can choose plants that match the conditions of the site. Research the plants before buying and planting. You should also take into account the condition of your soil. Is it clay, sandy or loamy, is it dry or wet, acidic or alkaline? (Click here to find out about soil tests: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) Consider the following plants for your shady garden. SMALL TREES Saucer Magnolias Saucer Magnolias (30’) are shrub-like trees. They grow at a moderate pace producing goblet-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, and purple. The buds are attractive to deer and rabbits. They grow well in many soil types, especially organic-rich soils that stay moist. They are useful in tight spaces and can be near a foundation without causing problems. Eastern Redbud (zones 4-9) Eastern Redbuds (20’-30’ x 25’-35’) produce violet-pink blossoms on bare branches in early to mid-spring before heart-shaped foliage emerges. Eastern Redbuds grow at a medium rate, and tolerate many soil types, from clay to sand, from alkaline to acidic. Water regularly when young; once established, they’re drought-resistant. SHRUBS Azalea The University of Minnesota’s Northerns Lights series has a wide range of colors. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas . If you look at other growers, be sure to purchase plants grown in Minnesota. Acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.0) is very important. Try to site azaleas at the edges of shade. Aronia, Chokeberry Aronia does best in part shade. In the spring they are covered in white blossoms, in the fall they provide bright color. Chokeberry Aronia Snowberry Snowberry produces tiny pink flowers and white berries the size of peas. Is is very hardy with a wide tolerance of soil types, and moisture conditions. The drupes attract many birds. Weigela Weigelas, like azaleas, bloom better with more sun rather than less, but are not so picky about pH. The blossoms are white, pink, mauve and red. The leaves can range from light green to dark and many have stunning bronze foliage. Weigela PERENNIALS If you would like more ideas, please download this table. It should dispel any question in your mind that there are a wide variety of perennials that will grow well in your shady garden. Shade Plant Table .pdf Download PDF • 131KB Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1), www.flickr.com – All Creative Commons (2), www.thisgrandmothersgarden.com – All Creative Commons (3), www.publicdomainpictures.net – All Creative Commons (4)

< Back New Chance Garden Project At Dakota County Juvenile Services Center Mary Galvin, edited by Julie Harris The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Read this article to learn more about how this important project serves as a teaching tool for youth and a source of food for county residents in need. The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The Juvenile Services Center is a secured facility that provides detention and treatment services for youth. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth between the ages of 14 and 17 have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Mary Galvin and Mary Beth Kufrin lead the project for the Master Gardeners. Several other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge to the project. What once was a small garden surrounded by turf was transformed into a multi-bed vegetable garden area with lovely wood chip borders and paths. Much credit goes to Dakota County staff and the program participants, who did the heavy lifting to make the garden happen. They prepared the area by removing the turf grass, tilling in compost, and laying out the garden bed areas and walkways with wood chips. This is the third year of the project which receives the enthusiastic support of Corrections and County officials, some of whom help with planting vegetables in the garden in the spring. Board Chair, Joe Atkins, Dakota County Commissioner Bill Droste, along with Community Corrections Director Suwana Kirkland, Deputy Director Matt Bauer, and Director of Community Services Marti Fischbach helped with planting the garden this year. The garden generated over 500 pounds of food last year. Most of this was donated to food shelves but some was enjoyed by youth in the New Chance program under the supervision of a nutritionist. Last year, Master Gardeners met with the New Chance participants to see what they wanted to grow. After a lively group discussion that included some general observations regarding our climate, our USDA zone, and growing season restrictions (which make pineapple and kiwifruit difficult to grow here), they made a list of possible produce to grow. Ideas include watermelon, strawberries, and rhubarb, collard greens, sweet corn, and pumpkins as well as garden staples like peppers, tomatoes, summer squash and onions. The participants also learn about pollinator friendly plants such as Zinnia and Swamp Milkweed. From planting day forward, Master Gardeners are in the garden weeding, watering, and harvesting alongside the staff and kids. One Master Gardener recalled how she described to a participant how food crops come from seeds, which grow into plants, which flower and bear fruit/vegetables, which in turn produce seeds. She said ‘it was like watching a light bulb turn on in the kid’s head as they made the connection.’ Other participants initially were anxious about seeing bees and wasps in the garden, but they also were interested to hear how non-threatening most insects are and how pollinators are essential to food production. In short, the hands-on aspect of the garden was an easy and informal way to educate. Dakota County Commissioner Mary Hamann-Roland, who was a driving force behind the garden, has said, “It’s been a great pleasure to work with the kids and staff and see the joy that the kids find in learning, picking and tasting new vegetables and fruit,” “It’s a metaphor,” said Hamann-Roland, “we need to tend to each other and when we do, we help our world grow.” Photo credits: Mary Galvin (1,2), Dakota County Commissioner (3)

< Back Plant American Bittersweet and Gourds for a Fall Reward Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener If you want to have beautiful American Bittersweet or quirky gourds this fall, find a place for them in your garden this spring. Read this article to learn more about why you want these plants to be part of your garden and how to grow them successfully. American Bittersweet American Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) is a stunning addition to a garden and a beautiful fall extension of the season. American Bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus scandens). The Oriental bittersweet is the invasive variety with the ability to girdle and overpower natural vegetation. Double check the identification tag when purchasing, making sure that the plant is American Bittersweet. American Bittersweet vines up and over an arbor with tiny white flowers in the spring, dark green foliage in the summer and bright red/orange berries the fall. A mature female plant will produce flowers that develop into berries. Located at the end of the woody stem, the berries make attractive arrangements indoors and food for birds outdoors. A new variety, Summer Rhapsody, has been developed by the University of Minnesota. This new variety does not need both female and male plants for berries to form. Bittersweet requires full sun, regular garden soil, and a 6 -10 foot arbor or trellis to climb and grow. American bittersweet is losing its natural habitat of woodlands, fence rows, and open prairies but can still be found in the Midwest. American bittersweet would be a rewarding addition to a native garden. Gourds Fall is a ‘bittersweet’ time for gardeners. In one respect the gardener is reflective on a successful season but sad to see blooms fade. The addition of gourds to a fence row or on a 6 foot trellis will hide the fading foliage of other plants. Gourds are members of the pumpkin family and sometimes confused with pumpkins and squash. Gourds are one of the oldest cultivated plants. Egyptians used them for water bottles and as utensils, storage containers, and dippers by indigenous peoples of North America. They can be found at farmer’s markets designed as bird houses and other items. Numerous varieties of gourds are easy to grow in regular garden soil and can be planted around other crops. Gourd vines have tiny tendrils that reach for wire or another plant to twine around. They will also trail on the ground. Gourds are interesting for color, shape, texture, and color. Preparation of gourds for carving is a year long process. After the frost has killed the vines, arrange the harvested gourds in a shed or dry garage. Let the gourds dry for 6 months to a year. Then, using a small sharp tool make an incision and clean out the inside. Seeds will rattle in dry gourds. Scrub the exterior to remove dirt and let the gourd dry before painting. Gourds are hard shelled so unlike the soft-shelled pumpkin they will last in an indoor arrangement. American bittersweet and gourds will extend your gardens life. Gifting a gourd and bittersweet to friends is a particularly enjoyable activity at the end of the growing season. Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Perpetual Poinsettias Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Christmas is over and leaves are starting to fall off your once-flourishing poinsettia plants. Most people throw away Poinsettias and buy new plants each winter. Instead, consider saving a plant’s life and the Poinsettia will reward you with beauty throughout the year. If you enjoy Poinsettia’s and are willing to care and feed this lovely plant throughout the year, read this article for some great information about saving your Poinsettia for another beautiful display during next year’s holidays. Christmas is over and leaves are starting to fall off your once-flourishing poinsettia plants. Most people throw away Poinsettias and buy new plants each winter. Instead, consider saving a plant’s life and the Poinsettia will reward you with beauty throughout the year. Poinsettias’ Story The Euphorbia Pulcherrima plants are native to Mexico and Central America. The plants became known by their more common name, Poinsettia, in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, who brought the plants to the U.S. in the 1820s and cultivated the plants in his South Carolina greenhouse. However, Poinsettias were not a popular plant in the U.S. until after the Ecke family founded their Encinitas, California Ecke Ranch in the 1920s and developed, by the 1950s, a way to mass-produce a compact Poinsettia varietal that could be potted as an indoor plant. In the 1960s, the Ecke family promoted Poinsettias as a Christmas plant by sending free plants to television studios who then featured the plants on shows such as Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show and Bob Hope’s Christmas Special. Today, about 35 million Poinsettia plants are sold each year in the U.S. making Poinsettias the best-selling potted plant in the U.S. Amazingly, 70% of all commercially grown Poinsettias in the U.S. are still grown at the Ecke Ranch. Anatomy of Poinsettias Poinsettias’ flowers are found in the small yellow-green clusters known as cyathium, a unique feature of the Euphorbia genus. Cyathium is an aggregate of several very small male flowers and a single female flower wrapped in the involucre. The larger colorful parts of the Poinsettias are modified leaves known as bracts. Leaves are bract when attached to the axil of a flower (i.e. the node that connects the flower to a plant stem) versus non-bract leaves that are attached directly to plant stems. Poinsettias’ bracts are considered “modified” because the bracts change color in the winter due to a process called photoperiodism. Shorter days and cooler nights trigger the plant to stop producing green chlorophyll which promotes visibility of the leaves’ red pigments called anthocyanins. The colorful bracts attract pollinators, but bracts will drop off the plant after the flowers are pollinated. Winter To Spring Enjoyment In colder climates, indoor potted Poinsettias can remain colorful for several months with the right environment and a little bit of attention. Poinsettias will thrive best in warmer air temperatures, ideally between 65 degrees and 70 degrees, and in spots where the temperature remains stable. Avoid placing Poinsettias near cold windows, air vents, fireplaces or fans. Poinsettias like 4-6 hours of bright light during a day but longer hours of light or too much direct sunlight may cause the bracts to fade. Poinsettias need moist soil. If the soil feels dry, put the Poinsettia in a sink and water until it drains from the bottom of the pot. Do not allow Poinsettia roots to sit in water (may need to remove decorative wrapping). Also, do not allow Poinsettias to become so dry that the leaves wilt. Start fertilizing monthly when new growth appears in January or February. Use fertilizer at about half strength. Sprinkle additional potting soil on the surface if the Poinsettias’ roots are peeking up from the soil. Trim off wilted and brown leaves as they die. Remove any dead leaves from the soil. Following the above simple maintenance steps should keep Poinsettias beautiful and healthy from November through February, and possibly longer. Christmas Renewal Poinsettia plants that look healthy in March are good candidates to keep alive for enjoyment the following Christmas. Poinsettias will drop their colorful bracts and flowers during March/April which signals the plants to grow. A healthy plant will have plentiful green leaves and stems and ideally will have a few new shoots peeking out from stem joints. Poinsettias can then be periodically pruned and shaped to promote more branching and create a more compact, full plant. Continue to follow the steps specified above for spring maintenance. At the end of May, Poinsettias should be cut back to about 5-10 inches and transplanted into larger pots. Poinsettias may remain year-round house plants or may be moved outdoors in June or July when the night temperatures remain above 50 degrees (preferably above 60 degrees). Poinsettias need 4-6 hours of direct sunlight in the summer to stimulate growth. In addition, increase the fertilizer to full strength during the summer months. Bring outdoor Poinsettias indoors early in September to protect the plants from cooler night temperatures. The plants should remain in a brightly lit area for another 2-4 weeks, but fertilization should be reduced to about 25% of normal strength to slow growth. To produce colorful bracts and flowers, Poinsettias need 16 hours per day of complete darkness and 6-8 hours per day of light starting late September through late November. Temperatures during the dark periods should ideally be in the low 60s. Poinsettias should continue to be watered and fertilized at a reduced rate during these weeks. When colorful bracts appear in late November, Poinsettias can be moved to a sunny room and enjoyed through the Christmas holidays! Lessons From Real-Life I brought home six smaller Poinsettias last Christmas after volunteering at a banquet where the Poinsettias were used as table centerpieces. With regular watering, the Poinsettias remained compact and colorful through the winter months. By early spring, I faced the annual decision about what to do with the Poinsettias. I heard from friends that you could grow Poinsettias year-round which led me to keep the three healthiest looking Poinsettias. The red bracts eventually fell off the Poinsettias and I was left with three attractive green house plants. Someone gave me an article about caring for Poinsettias but I confess, I didn’t read the article until late October. Consequently, I put the Poinsettias in a dark place late October with a grow light that came on for only six hours per day. I used a grow tent that could be zippered closed to exclude light but I read that any dark place could work. I watered the plants once per week and ignored the Poinsettias between waterings. I pulled the Poinsettias out from hiding the second week in December and magically, red bracts had appeared! I’ve heard anecdotes that maintaining beautiful Poinsettias is challenging and I admit that my Poinsettias do not look as bushy as store-bought Poinsettias. However, I learned that Poinsettias are resilient and appealing, even with minimal care. In the coming year, I plan to follow more of the recommended Poinsettia care steps to enhance the beauty of my Poinsettias. The key changes that I plant to make to produce healthier Poinsettias are: Transplant the Poinsettias into larger pots in late spring. Fertilize the Poinsettias every month during the summer and fall. Regularly trim the Poinsettias to promote bushy plants. Shorten the Poinsettias’ daylight starting the end of September. Ensure that the Poinsettias never become too dry. I encourage you all to treasure your Poinsettias and experiment with keeping you Poinsettias year-round. The Poinsettias will thank you with their vibrant beauty every Christmas! References: “Cuetlaxochitl: A Cultural History of the Poinsettia”, Swanson Nursery http://www.swansonsnursery.com/blog/history-of-poinsettias#:~:text=The%20timing%20of%20the%20annual,transformation%20during%20the%20holiday%20season “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “About the genus Euphorbia”, Euphorbia Planetary Biodiversity Inventory project http://euphorbiaceae.org/pages/about_euphorbia.html “Guide to Selection and Care of Poinsettias”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/guide-selection-and-care-poinsettias “How Can I Keep My Poinsettia Alive Beyond the Holidays”, Utah State University http://extension.usu.edu/news_sections/home_family_and_food/poinsettia-care “Poinsettia: America's most popular flower”, University of Missouri http://extension.missouri.edu/news/poinsettia-americas-most-popular-flower “Poinsettias”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/poinsettias/ “Poinsettias: Year after Year”, New Mexico State University http://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H406/index.html “What To Do with A Poinsettia After Christmas”, Gardening Know How http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/poinsettia/poinsettia-care-after-christmas.htm Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1,3), euphorbiaceae.org (2)

< Back Why Do Soil Testing? Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Read this article to learn why you should do a soil test in your garden and how to get it done. Hint: It’s easy! Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Whether you’re starting a new garden, converting a yard space from one use, such as lawn, to another like a vegetable garden, or just continuing to use an area for the same purpose, a soil test can provide you with information that will promote success. It is recommended you test your soil when changing the use of the area and every three to five years for all other areas. Soil testing is available through the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory. The basic soil test will provide information on the soil texture, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime levels in your soil. With that information, you will know the specific composition of fertilizer that will benefit your garden. It will also provide you with information that will help you determine the types of plants that will do best in your garden. Soil testing is easy! You will fill out a form that asks what the area will be used for and the results will then provide recommendations specific to that use. A soil sample of two to three cups of soil can be mailed or brought to the Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota. The sample should be collected by walking in a zig zag pattern through the space and placed in a clean tub or plastic bag. Separate samples should be submitted for separate areas of your yard. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden for specific instructions and to obtain the sample request sheet. The cost for a basic test performed at the University of Minnesota is $20. Happy soil makes for happy plants. Your key to happiness may be a soil test! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Wild Bergamot, the Bees’ Delight Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner Watching bees and butterflies hovering over lavender-topped Wild Bergamot on a quiet summer afternoon is a delightful moment. It is just one of the reasons to include this native plant in your garden. Read this article to learn more about the environmental benefits and other charms of this beautiful plant. There are a number of varieties of Monarda fistulosa , differing in their color and odor. As you might imagine it is a popular source of nectar for bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as well as being a larval host for the orange mint moth and the hermit sphinx moth. It has been widely used as a medicinal plant by Native Americans and indeed it is high in thymol, an organic compound with antimicrobial properties. Bergamot grows fairly easily in any good garden soil in full sun to partial shade. Clumps of plants divide easily. It can be grown from seed although stratification (exposure to damp cold air) for a month helps. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) although it is not terribly invasive. Bergamot forms clumps which can reach 4 feet. It works nicely as a perennial border but it is at its best in a natural landscape or in a prairie restoration, blooming in late summer. That blooming produces lipped, light to dark lavender purple flowers, arranged in a whorl around a rounded flower head. The seed heads will hold into the winter providing visual interest as well as distinctive bergamot aroma. Speaking of aroma, being a native herb, the dried or macerated leaves can be boiled to produce a fragrant tea. It usually is quite hardy, although Wild Bergamot does tend to develop mildew on the leaves in late summer. This is a purely cosmetic issue and not one to warrant a chemical onslaught. Instead, relax and enjoy bergamot’s showy flowers and swarms of colorful, intriguing insects. Photo credit: My Patriot Supply (1), Jeff Fleming (2) & Julie Harris (3)

< Back Garlic Butter Brussel Sprouts Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and this month green vegetables may be top of mind (thanks to Saint Patrick, I’m sure). Garden seeds are sprouting under their grow lights and we are excited for warmer days to come when they’ve grown large enough to transplant outside into our gardens. In the meantime, here is a recipe for one green vegetable – brussels sprouts. According to the author, Joy Johnson, even the pickiest of brussels sprouts eaters will love this recipe! For this month’s recipe, I’ll admit I used store bought brussels sprouts. I have grown them in my garden, but I have not had any last in cool storage until March. I’ve never tried to freeze them and would welcome any tips on doing that in case I have a bumper crop this year. Usually, we gobble them up fresh from the garden in late fall. This recipe will tickle your taste buds with it’s spicey, smokey flavors that are cooled with a lemon Aioli sauce to drizzle on just before eating. Garlic Butter Brussels Sprouts Ingredients : 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 4 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tablespoons salted butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated A couple sprigs of fresh thyme for garnish A couple of lemon wedges Process : Preheat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack positioned in the lower third of the oven. In a gallon plastic food storage bag, gently shake together the Brussels sprouts, olive oil, thyme and red pepper flakes. Arrange the Brussels sprouts cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Lay the bacon pieces over the sprouts. Roast until the sprouts are deeply browned and the bacon is crisp, 20 – 25 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter and the garlic. Remove the sprouts from the oven and pour the butter mixture over them. Return the sprouts to the oven and roast until crispy, 10 minutes. Smokey Lemon Aioli Ingredients: ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Salt Process : In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne and paprika. Taste and add salt as needed. Pile the Brussels sprouts onto a serving plate, sprinkle with the sprigs of fresh thyme, and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve with the bowl of aioli for dipping or drizzle it over them. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,3), foto.wuestenigel.com (2)

< Back Hens and Chicks Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener Sometimes referred to as a “roof Housesleek,” because they would often grow on houses, Hens and Chicks are a delightful perennial even if just grown in your garden. Read Master Gardener Gail Maifeld’s article for more on why Hens and Chicks are perfect for that dry, sunny spot in your yard. Native to Europe and Africa, Hens and Chicks are sometimes referred to as a roof Houseleek as they were grown on houses. Historically, the plant was found along stone walls, slate shingled roofs, and areas of poor sandy soil. The succulent grows as a mat in full sun and is also drought tolerant and deer resistant. Leaves are arranged in rosettes with the center one being the hen. Chicks form around the hen after the bloom fades. Although not planted for the blooms, the daisy like flowers can be light pink, reddish-purple, and pale green. There are several varieties to choose from: Sempervivum Arachnoideum: (cobweb houseleek) – Tips of the leaves are entwined with hairy fibers that appear to be cobwebs Pale green blooms Zones 5-8 Sempervivum Tectorum – Small rosettes quickly forming a 6”-10” mat Flowers may or may not form Reddish leaves and blooms Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Atropureum - This variety has dark reddish-purple leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Limelight – This variety has yellow-green, pink tipped leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Pacific Hawk – This variety has dark red leaves edged with silvery hairs Zones 3-8. Overwatering can lead to root rot so check the soil around the plant before watering. The varieties can be house plants but require a cactus potting soil or sand added to regular potting soil. The plant is divided by separating the new rosettes and rooting them. Blooms of Hens and Chicks do not have a recognizable scent. After the bloom fades it can be cut off or allowed to die back and form compost. Hens and chicks are a low maintenance, drought tolerant plant, and will add interest to a full sun, sandy soil location. For that problematic sunny spot that needs some attention - plant Hens and Chicks. Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2)

< Back Stumped by a Stumpery? Deborah Snow, Master Gardener Have you thought about planting a Stumpery in your yard? A what? A Stumpery is basically a stylized shade garden. The garden uses stumps and logs as habitat for shade-loving plants; mainly, ferns, mosses and lichen. Colorful mushrooms may eventually grow and add color and character to the wood. When I tell people how excited I am about creating my own Stumpery, almost everyone asks, “What is that?!” As any gardener, I’m learning along the way. I tell them it’s basically a stylized shade garden. The garden uses stumps and logs as habitat for shade-loving plants; mainly, ferns, mosses and lichen. Colorful mushrooms may eventually grow and add color and character to the wood. So, how did this garden style get started? It came from a Victorian tradition of growing ferns among tree stumps. One of the first documented Stumperies was at Biddulph Grange in England. It was designed in 1856 by Edward William Cook, an artist and garden designer. Estate owner, James Bateman, was a wealthy horticulturalist who exemplified the Victorian passion for collecting plants from around the world. They created the Stumpery by stacking tree stumps into 10 foot high walls and filling the crevices with ferns and other plants. Due to the popularity of ferns during the Victorian era, the Stumpery was adopted as the garden space to display their collection. The Stumpery was emulated throughout England. One of the most famous Stumperies was created by Prince Charles of Wales, now King Charles, and is still a featured part of the gardens at Highgrove, his home in Gloucestershire. I did see a Stumpery in England but you don’t need to go that far. We recently toured a Stumpery at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis. I highly recommend a visit there if you’ve never been. What inspiration does a Victorian tradition from England have for American gardeners? A Stumpery is a workable concept for a modern garden. There is beauty in the architecture it provides. Its unique design lends itself to beneficial growing environments for shade-loving plants. Ferns are an obvious choice but any woodland plant could be included. It’s always evolving and that’s exciting to me! As the stumps and logs gradually decompose, the peeling bark provides habitat for insects that will feed the birds and frogs or pollinate the plants in the garden. Then come the mushrooms! I can’t wait for that. Next, I’ll talk about how to create your own Stumpery. It can be large or small. It can consist of several unearthed trees showing the roots or simply make use of logs or driftwood. You will use the arrangement of logs and stumps as an organizing feature. The wood will be equally important as the plants. Shade or part shade will work best and, if possible, plant on a slope for the best viewing. Along the edge of some woods would be perfect. My Stumpery is still very young. I put it together in the fall of 2021 and have added more wood and plants this last season. I’m sure it will get bigger as I learn more and find interesting pieces of wood. I’m always on the hunt. Friends have even contributed stumps. I will share the steps I used to get started. First, I chose and cleared the site. Next, I gathered some wood. I laid cardboard as the base to smother any weeds. I used logs as an outline and piled a mix of garden soil and compost inside. I created a mound since I didn’t have a slope. I partially buried some interesting stumps in and around the mound and covered it with wood chips for mulch. Now I was ready to plant. I’m such a plant collector and all that summer, before I started to build, I collected mostly ferns. I looked for varieties I didn’t already have wherever I went. Any time I saw something differed or unique I bought it. Also, I transplanted some ferns from my other gardens. So now I had a nice selection of plants to tuck in and around the wood. I planted ostrich ferns as a backdrop and started some mosses inside some hollowed out pieces of wood. I have continued putting in plants and stumps all this next season. And of course, me being me, I had to put a fairy garden piece in as well! I’m sure that will grow in the future. The garden looks mostly brown still but should be showing more green in the spring – I hope. I have struggled to keep it wet enough to get the mosses going. They don’t like this hot dry weather pattern we are stuck in. I’m hoping for a rainy spring and I’ll place more mosses. I’m researching best practices for moss and hope to do better next year. So, now you know what I know and I hope you are inspired to get out and build one of your own or at least find a stumpery to visit. There are lots of beautiful photos online to give you a better sense of what a mature Stumpery will look like. Good luck and happy gardening. Photo credits: Deborah Snow (all)