< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2

< Back Vegetables Indigenous to North America Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota and provide some useful references for those interested in exploring this topic more thoroughly. Larry Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota. But first, let’s define some terms. Indigenous vegetables are defined as “locally-produced (usually within traditional systems), socially and culturally accepted as local foods, and eaten by previous generations or introduced for a very long time.” https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 . “A plant is “native” if it has occurred naturally for thousands of years in a region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native . Minnesota is home to a wide range of native and indigenous plants and vegetables each with many different cultivars. An important source for indigenous plants in Minnesota is a work by Frances Densmore - Plants Used by the Chippewa Indians , originally published in 1927 and later retitled How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine & Crafts . Densmore documented nearly 200 plants and their uses for food, medicine, dyes, charms, and crafts. Her work offered a firsthand look at the plants used by Indigenous communities across Minnesota. For example, she recorded the use of Spreading Dogbane for heart issues and Chokecherry bark for stomach ailments—remedies later validated by U.S. pharmacological references. Her contributions remain deeply influential today. (See references below.) While it’s easy to find general references to staple crops like beans, squash, and corn, it is more difficult to uncover exact cultivars. Densmore’ book is an excellent source for this research. Frances Densmore More recently, many organizations are attempting to identify and save seeds that are indigenous to North America. In Minnesota, environmentalist and Native American activist Winona LaDuke initiated the White Earth Land Recovery Project to protect indigenous seeds, help the community to overcome type-2 diabetes and also strengthen the community’s spiritual and cultural heritage. Other organizations that are working to catalog and conserve indigenous seeds are Seed Savers Exchange and Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste . One organization, Food Tank, has compiled a list 20 foods that are indigenous to the people in North America. Some foods on this list are familiar and some or not: but all are interesting. Acorns (California native oak trees) American Persimmon Wild Rice (Anishinaabe Manoomin) Bay of Fundy Dulse (a red seaweed from Canada) Blue Camas (Pacific Northwest, root vegetable) Candy Roaster Squash (Appalachian Mountain native) Chaya (native to Yucatan Peninsula, evergreen plant) Chiltepin Pepper (southern U.S., very spicy) Cholla Cactus Flower Buds (southwestern U.S.) Garambullo (central Mexico, sweet red or purple fruit) Highbush Cranberry (native to Alberta, Canada) Mesquite Beans (southwestern U.S.) Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (northeastern North America) Pawpaws (largest edible fruit in North America) Ramon seed (superfood used by Mayans) Roy’s Calais Flint Corn (northern U.S. and Canada) Seminole Pumpkin (native to the Everglades) Tehucan Amaranth (indigenous to the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico) Tepary Beans (southwestern U.S.) Wild Ramps (wild onions native to eastern North America) Indigenous vegetables that are more familiar locally include beans, corn and squash. One traditional method of growing these crops is known as the “Three Sisters.” The term “Three Sisters” refers to corn, squash, and beans traditionally grown together using intercropping techniques. These plants support one another: corn offers structure, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and squash shades the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This method has been used for generations, and studies have confirmed its effectiveness. Three Sisters plots have shown significantly better soil health—including higher CO₂ respiration and nitrate levels—compared to monoculture plantings. Corn – Red Lake Corn One variety native to Minnesota is Red Lake Corn, cultivated by the Red Lake Ojibwe along Red Lake’s southern shores. This eight-rowed corn features mixed white and blue kernels, occasionally with red. It’s a distinct and culturally significant variety grown by skilled Indigenous farmers. Beans – Pole beans Cherokee Trail of Tears pole bean . The Cherokee people carried these beans with them during their forced removal from their ancestral lands, highlighting their importance as a source of sustenance and cultural identity. For purposes of the Three Sisters, look for varieties that will grow up and wrap around corn stalks. Many varieties with roots in North America are available. Squash – Cucurbita maxima Cucurbita maxima , one of the five cultivated squash species, originated over 4,000 years ago in South America. Though it favors warmer climates, some varieties have historically been grown in cooler regions like Minnesota. Frances Densmore referenced it as a basic but important food source. This long-vining plant needs full sun, fertile soil, and space to spread. Its seeds also have medicinal uses, and the fruit is versatile—great for soups, roasting, or baking. Some varieties are even grown for ornament or livestock feed. Squash, Cucurbita maxima If you are interested in growing heirloom vegetables indigenous to North America, look for Native seed companies like Seedsavers Exchange. For more information about indigenous vegetables, take a look at the references below. References https://foodtank.com/news/2016/07/indigenous-foods-historically-and-culturally-important-to-north-americ/ https://www.gardenary.com/blog/what-crops-are-actually-native-to-north-america https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/history/densmore.html https://www.redwingminnesota.org/dakota-densmore https://www.mnopedia.org/person/densmore-frances-1867-1957 https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/151430#page/1/mode/1up https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/farmreports-12307-herrighty.pdf https://minnesotareformer.com/2020/11/24/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and-cultures/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/10-plants/corn https://www.redlakenationnews.com/story/2018/10/01/features/red-lake-corn/75293.html?m=true https://www.mnfuels.com/blog/88-octane/corn-on-indigenous-peoples-day/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astragalus_crassicarpus https://identify.plantnet.org/k-world-flora/species/Cucurbita%20maxima%20Duchesne/data https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbita_maxima https://minnesotagrown.com/wp-content/uploads/Winter-Squash.pdf Photo credits: www.educationthatinspires.ca (1), www.mnopedia.org (2), En.wikipedia.org (3)

< Back Seed Bombs - An Explosion of Color Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The calendar has turned to March and the excitement builds in anticipation for Spring, but wait, I can’t plant seeds outside yet. Don’t worry, DIY seed bombs are a great way to get your hands dirty and also introduce your children and grandchildren to a way of transforming a barren or hard to grow area of your yard into a beautiful flower spot. Seed bombs date back to the 1930’s when Masanobu Fukuoka, a Japanese microbiologist had many areas of his farm that were overgrown with weeds. He created seeds bombs and spread them throughout his farming land and found this to be an effective way of farming and eco-friendly as well. Urban settings also utilized seed bombs in the 1960’s and 1970’s when they were used to clean up urban neighborhoods and create “green spaces”. Seed bombs are great gift for family and friends as well. What is a Seed Bomb and How Do We Make Our Own? Seed bombs are a combination of seeds, clay and compost placed together to be placed or thrown in areas that need beautifying. The clay mixture protects the seeds from creatures that would eat it (ex. insects and birds) and the compost provides the nutrients for the seeds to germinate and grow. What You Need : Powdered Clay (can be found at craft stores or on-line or air-dry clay) Potting Soil or Compost Native/Local Wildflower Seeds (not all seeds will germinate so use a variety of native, non-invasive wildflower seeds) Water Container for Mixing Let’s Make Seed Bombs : Mix All Ingredients – 1 Cup Seeds 5 Cups of Soil or Compost 2-3 Cups of Clay Powder (Air Clay can also be used, but adjustments as to the amount of clay may be needed. Slowly mix in water with your hands until everything sticks together, then roll mixture into firm balls. Balls can also be formed into fun shapes like hearts or stars too. Place seed bombs in an area to dry. Once seed balls are dry and the weather is warm enough then it is time to plant the seed bombs. Plant your seed bombs by throwing them at bare spots of your garden and wait to see what pops up! Photo Credit: en.permawiki.org (1), www.pexels.com (2,5), flickr.com (3), University of MN Extension (4)

< Back Why are Those Bugs Swarming Around My Front Door? Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the weather is growing cooler, you may be experiencing a mass of bugs swarming your outside walls and doors. As we get prepared for winter, the bugs that don’t die off, survive by burying themselves in the soil, or leaves. But there are a few who want very much to spend the winter inside your home. The “big three” offenders are boxelder bugs, Asian lady beetles, and brown marmorated stinkbugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed on sources in your yard. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. They are especially drawn to the part of your house that gets afternoon sun. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug These bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. While they are not generally harmful, they can be an annoyance. They don’t feed on wood or other building materials and they don’t spread disease to people or pets. However, Asian lady beetles sometimes bite when handled and they, along with the stinkbugs create a bad smell when stressed or crushed. Asian Lady Beetles The best way to manage these bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. Check window screens, broken seals around doors and windows. Don’t forget to look at the seals around wires, pipes, vents, soffits and fascias. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment although targeting these bugs is difficult. As they are not feeding while they are trying to invade your home, pesticides may not work. (Note that any use of pesticides must be done with utmost care as they carry some risk.) Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom or just crushing them. Note that vacuuming won’t kill the bugs, so they should be disposed of outside. These bugs generally do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. They are generally slow moving and can be eliminated fairly easily. In short, these bug invaders are big on the ICK scale but generally can be controlled without causing harm. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/temperatures-fall-home-invading-insects-come-knocking Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), University of Minnesota Extension, Susan Ellis, bugwood.org (2)

< Back Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Is there a food more identified with October than pumpkin! Of course not! So, here is Joy Johnson’s delicious recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake. Joy says she is targeting adults with this recipe but kids will love it, too! Pumpkin is nutritious and delicious. It can be used in a variety of ways. It’s easy to get kids to eat their veggies when you roast them, bake them in a pie or make a frothy drink out of them. Remember Harry Potter’s love for Pumpkin Juice? I shared all those recipes in last year’s October Garden Buzz, so I thought I’d focus on the adults this year. Yes, you can have your coffee and eat it too. Here is a recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake , with coffee frosting of course! Cake Ingredients: ½ cup butter, room temperature 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 1 T pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ tsp baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon salt Frosting Ingredients: ½ cup salted butter, at room temperature 2 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 T instant coffee powder 1 T vanilla extract Process: Preheat the oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. MAKE THE CAKE: In a stand mixer, beat together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and pumpkin on low until combined, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix at medium speed until completely smooth with no lumps remaining, for about 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center is just set, 25-30 minutes, place it on a cooling rack. Let cool. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE FROSTING: Beat together the butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, instant coffee powder, and vanilla. Beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 2-4 minutes more. Spread the frosting over the cake. Slice, snack and enjoy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Photo Credits: www.aceofgray.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back What to Do with an Overcrowded Perennial Garden Linda Stein, Master Gardener Are your perennial plants over crowded? Are you planning to rip out a section of your garden to plant new shrubs or plants this year? In certain situations, Dakota County Master Gardeners may be able to help you by harvesting your plants and selling them at our annual Plant Sale in May to support our programs in the county. In the past, most of the plants that were sold in our annual Plant Sale were from member’s gardens or were vegetables and herbs started by our members in a greenhouse. However, we also sell plants harvested from the yards of non-master gardeners. We plan to continue this tradition for our next sale in May 2022, creating teams that will dig out the plants, bare root the plants to avoid the risk of spreading jumping worms, and pot the plants for sale. This is a win-win situation. Your perennials are thinned out and moved, and we can sell the plants to support our programs throughout Dakota County. (Please note that we only have a limited ability to accept hostas and daylilies for this program.) If you would like us to consider digging in your garden in the spring, contact me - lindasternstein@gmail.com . Tell me what types of plants you have. When April comes, I’ll contact you to do a walk through and set up a time to dig in your garden.

< Back Lasagna Soup Lasagna Soup Too many tomatoes? Basil that needs a recipe? This month’s Vegetable Section features “Lasagna soup” that uses both garden vegetables. As fall days become cooler, we can all use a comforting, hearty soup. Lasagna soup is a hearty meal option and with the addition of focaccia bread and a green vegetable, you will have a comfy meal fit for company. Click on the following link to view the recipe. The site adds information on how to freeze lasagna soup, a crockpot version and other substitutions. There is also a link to a quick marinara sauce. Replace purchased sauce with cooked garden tomatoes. Stew 10 or more medium to large tomatoes and follow the recipe. Bow tie or other shaped pasta may be substituted if lasagna noodles are not on the pantry shelf. Top the soup with the following ricotta/parmesan topping. Lasagna Soup Topping 6 tbsp shredded mozzarella cheese 1/2cup part skim ricotta cheese 3 tbsp grated parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup fresh basil chiffonade Bon Appetit! Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (all)

< Back Make Seed Tape with Your Child Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Growing your own vegetables has many benefits. It is a source of delicious food, of course. But it is also a source of wonder for adults and children alike. You can share the wonder with the child in your life by planting vegetable seeds. In this article, learn how to create and plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables by using seed tape. A perfect gardening activity for you and your child or grandchild. It’s easy to plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables when you use seed tape. You can buy seed tape, but it’s much more fun to make your own, using seeds for vegetables your child enjoys eating, plus a few household items you probably have on hand. You will need: Seeds Single-ply toilet paper (you can separate the paper layers if it is two-ply) Toothpicks Ruler Marker 2 tablespoons of white flour 1 tablespoon of water 1. Choose seeds that have time to mature in Minnesota. Minnesota has a shorter growing season than many states, so select varieties of seeds that will mature more quickly. To find out how long the growing season is where you live, consult the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources’ Final Spring/First Fall Freeze & Frost Date Propabilities . Then, compare that timing with the “Days to Harvest” on seed packets or online—the average number of days from planting until it’s time to harvest, according to Oregon State University. 2. Prepare the toilet paper. Roll out the toilet paper, tearing it off in two or three-foot lengths. If the toilet paper is two-ply, separate the layers. Fold the paper in half along its length, creasing the folded edge, then open, creating a furrow. 3. Measure and mark the toilet paper. Refer to the seed packet to find the spacing distance between seeds. If the distance between seeds should be 2”, use a ruler to measure and mark in the furrow every 2” from one end of the toilet paper strip to the other. 4. Make homemade edible glue, and use it to affix a seed at each mark on the paper . Mix the 2 tablespoons of white flour with 1 tablespoon of water to make glue. Dip a toothpick in the glue, pick up one seed, and place it on each mark on the toilet paper strip. 5. Seal and roll. When seeds have been placed on all the marks on the paper, place more glue dots along one long edge of the toilet paper. Fold the paper on the crease, covering the seeds; press along the long edge. Allow the glue to dry for at least two hours. Then, roll up each strip of toilet paper. Store in a cool, dry spot until planting time. After the last frost date in your area, roll out the tape in your garden bed, cover with soil to the planting depth on the seed packet, and water. Then, watch the magic begin. Photo Credit: Marie Stolte (1,2,3) & www.thegardeningme.com (4)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Herbs For A Winter Lift Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. Read this article to learn more about which herbs will grow best inside your house this winter. Sally McNamara, Dakota County Master Gardener Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. West or east facing are best. One can use grow lights but herbs can be happy with good light from windows. Which herbs could you grow? Aloe does not usually show up on an indoor herb list but it is super easy to grow, and share, and is really handy in the case of a kitchen burn. Slice a spear and spread the goo on the burn. Aloe reproduces readily and either needs to be shared or thinned or your kitchen will be full of aloe plants. Aloe can be planted in cactus mix soil. Basil is easy to find as a potted plant but is not long lasting. It is nice to have fresh basil leaves exactly when you need them but it might be challenging to grow enough for a good pesto in a window pot. Be generous in using it and replace it when it gets spindly. Chives take a while to fill a pot if planted from seed but are handy to have on hand. Cut them and they will regrow from the roots. One option is to pot up a piece of an outdoor bunch in fall to have on hand over the winter. Cilantro is a good choice if enough is grown to really be useful. A few sprigs usually is not what the recipe wants. Cilantro, like basil has a short life span so starting pots in a sequence will give a more continuous supply. Good draining and adequate water are important for success with cilantro. Sage , thyme and oregano all do well indoors. Drainage is important. Cutting the plants to use them encourages more growth. Lemon balm is not as useful in meal cooking as the herbs above but it is an easy to grow, very fragrant and attractive plant which goes into desserts and drinks and is a stress reliever. Snip and bruise some leaves for a quick lift of the spirits. It might want a little more space than some others. Rosemary might be one of the most useful and attractive herbs to grow because it doesn’t take many leaves to enhance a recipe but it can be fussy indoors. Good drainage, good light and letting the soil dry between waterings are important. This is a prime candidate for overwintering as it grows bigger each season; it is a shrub not an annual plant. Often an overwintered rosemary blooms with blue flowers inside in winter. Check for insects when bringing it in the fall. Warning: overwintering rosemary is a competitive sport to some of us. Indoor plants are mood enhancing generally but even more so when they are useful and decorative. The worst that can happen is learning how NOT to care for your herbs. We all grow by trying with some success and some failure. Photo Credit: www.pickpik.com (All Creative Commons) (1), en.wikipedia.org (All Creative Commons) (2), Whitwam Organics (3), The Growers Exchange (4), www.publicdomainpictures.net (5), kathleenkirkpoetry.blogspot.com (6), commons.wikimedia.org (7)

< Back Caring for Indoor Plants with Young Children Kristin Beardsley Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. Click here to discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. In this article, discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants. DO Materials: Place to work, can be a child-sized table, coffee table, plant stand, or the floor. Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Tray to carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Atomizer or spray bottle Cloth to catch drips Small watering can Several indoor plants Small brush and dustpan for clean-up (optional) Presentation Invite the child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left-handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Choose a plant and bring it to the workspace. It’s nice to tell the child what the plant is called or look at the tag if the plant is labeled. “Let’s mist the leaves. First, I will mist, then you can.” Pick up the atomizer, rest the atomizer on your non-dominant hand as you slowly place your fingers to mist. Hold the handle with your thumb and middle finger, then place your pointer finger on the top. Your pointer finger will push down to mist, keep your hands in this position to show your child a way they can be successful. This grip will help your child to strengthen their hand for holding pencils for writing. I model this, but my daughter isn’t able to do it yet, so she puts the atomizer on the table and pushes down with her palm. A spray bottle is also an easier option for younger children. Discuss how much water the plant needs and decide if it needs to be watered by feeling for moisture in the soil with a finger. Go fill the watering can. Show the child how to carry the watering can with one hand on the handle and one holding the cloth on the spout to decrease spills. When you go to water the cloth can be lowered and then can come back up to catch drips. Look for any spills and dry with the cloth and invite the child to water. Invite the child to water as many plants as they like and show them how to put everything away when they are done. You might need a small brush and dustpan to pick up any spilled soil. Extension for a Younger Child: Leaf Dusting It might be nice to introduce leaf dusting first as an introduction to caring for indoor plants, and it is accessible for a younger child. It feels great to see a dusty leaf look clean and shiny again. Choose a special cloth to be the designated leaf duster or make a leaf duster out of wool with a little handle, and choose a dish for the duster to sit in. When you go to present leaf dusting to your child bring the duster and plant to a workspace. Place one hand under the leaf and show how to dust the leaf from base to tip with 2-3 strokes. Dust a few leaves and then invite the child to dust. Only plants with smooth leaves can be dusted. Extension for an Older Child: Pruning Older children can also prune dead leaves while caring for indoor plants. Keep a small child size pruner in a dish. Show how to safely open the pruner and explain how we never touch the blade; it is very sharp. Locate and prune dead leaves and place them in the dish. Safely close the pruner before setting it down. Discard the leaves in the dish. Things to Consider when Presenting Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. Plants may be overwatered and over pruned. Have a big towel ready for spills and only offer plants that you are okay getting a fun new look. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. Focusing on your hands will help the child to be successful. Avoid praising the child and instead use phrases that acknowledge what they have achieved, like “You watered the plant,” when appropriate. Read Create a book for your child with all the plants in your home. Include the plants common name, scientific name, and how much water and light it needs. To assist a child who is not yet reading include a photo of each plant along with symbols to represent water and sun needs. Then place a sweet little tag with each plant including the name and symbols for how much water and sun it needs. This will allow your developing child to find a proper location for the plant to thrive and water it appropriately.

< Back Potentilla - A Hardy, Cold-Loving Workhorse Shrub Jim Lakin, MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Potentilla is a beautiful and useful native shrub. You may be familiar with the many cultivars of Potentilla that are on the market. But the native Potentilla has benefits that the cultivars do not. Read this article about the qualities of native Potentilla that may make it appealing for your garden. Dasiphora fruticose is known by a several common names: Potentilla , Shrubby or Bush Cinquefoil, Golden Hardhack, Shrubby Fivefinger, Widdy, Tundra Rose and Kuril Tea. Also, it is marketed as a number of attractive cultivars. The native, species plant is a quite hardy shrub doing nicely as far north as Zone 2. Thus, it is native to the cool temperate and subarctic regions of the northern hemisphere, often growing at high altitudes in mountains. It does wonderfully well and is long-lived in central Minnesota. Your author has had a fine patch with southern exposure which has done very well for over 30 years. Potentilla is a deciduous native perennial which grows to 3 to 4 feet being 4 to 5 feet wide. It is a member of the rose family, Rosaceae and produces a multitude of showy yellow flowers in summer into the early fall. It grows well in both clay and sandy soils. This could be a consideration for many parts of the Twin Cities. It will tolerate drought but does best in moist soils. In the wild it congregates in swampy, moisture-retentive soils. It will tolerate part shade, but does much better in full sun, especially if you want abundant flowering in summer. Potentilla is both deer and rabbit resistant. So, if you have “critter” problems, this would be a good choice for border, hedge or foundation planting. Potentilla will spread by rhizomes (underground runners) so it can invade adjacent beds. If it is acting as a woodland border plant, mowing will control spread. Potentilla as a flowering hedge The native is known to attract butterflies and is pollinator friendly. Data on pollinator attraction is scarce on the cultivars of Potentilla such as “Crème brulé”, “Marmalade” and “Happy Face”. There are over 130 named cultivars! As a general rule, they tend not to be as ecologically friendly as the native plant. You pay a price for a pretty face! Since Potentilla is hardy, disease resistant and low maintenance it is found in a wide variety of industrial and commercial plantings. If you are looking for such a ‘happy camper” for your landscape project, this would be a great choice. Photo credits: Walter Siegmund, Wikpedia (1), Oregon State University (2)