< Back Square Foot Gardening Do you want to grow vegetables in your garden but you don’t have a lot of space or you only have one sunny spot or your soil isn’t conducive to growing or you just want a few vegetables for your family? Square foot gardening may be your answer. This approach will save time, work, space, and water. And, you will produce some delicious vegetables for your family. Read this article for more information about why square foot gardening may be for you and how to get started. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener With a short growing season, gardeners want high yields of fresh produce from their vegetable gardens, yet many people have limited space suitable for growing. “Square Foot Gardening” is a method of gardening with the underlying premise of producing a greater variety of vegetables in a small space. It is also intended to make gardening more accessible to a greater number of people. According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation website , this method is, “estimated to cost 50% less, use 20% less space, 10% of the water, and 2% of the work”. They state there will be almost no weeds and you save time and effort because you don’t have to dig, rototill, or use heavy equipment, and fertilizers aren’t needed. It almost sounds too good to be true! However, many people have used this method successfully for 25 years. In the U.S., our standard gardening approach is to plant in rows. This is how many of us have done it for generations, passed down through our families. We have developed tools that support this approach for watering and weeding between the rows, using mulch papers or rototillers small enough for a row. We have row markers, seed tapes, and many other gardening supplies that support the row gardening approach. According to Bartholomew, this approach makes gardening harder than it needs to be with much of the growing space given over to aisles between the plants, resulting in a need to constantly weed those non-growing areas. He also argues that planting in rows results in overplanting. He uses the example of planting cabbages, suggesting few people find it useful to have 30 cabbage heads ripening at the same time. Square foot gardening suggests a different approach that carefully spaces plants to efficiently use space, manage the size of the harvest, and allow for successive planting, e.g., growing multiple crops in one growing season. Instead of sowing seeds and then having to thin the plants, this approach suggests placing the seeds at the distance you’d thin the plants. For example, if the seed packet says thin to 6 inches between plants, you can just space your seeds out that distance in all directions within the square. You can put a ‘pinch’ of seeds in each planting site to increase the chances of germination and instead of thinning, snip out the unneeded plants. This lessens the chance of disturbing or weaking the roots of the plant you are keeping. Most square foot gardens are 4 feet x 4 feet raised beds. They can be other sizes; however, you will want to make sure you can reach all areas of the bed without stepping on the soil. Stepping on soil compacts it, which makes it more difficult for plants to grow. The soil in the raised bed should be a mix of compost, vermiculite, and peat moss. The location of the square foot garden is important, with sufficient sunlight important and access to a water source. Bartholomew suggests placing it near the house so you always have a visual on your growing plants. Within the 4 x 4 space (or whatever size bed being used), a grid of 1 foot x 1 foot squares are laid to mark out each plot. In a 4 x 4 bed, you will have 16 squares in which to plant. The number of plants or seeds you grow in each square is dependent on the full size of the vegetable or flower. For example, in the 1 ft x 1 ft square, you could grow one tomato, or four heads of lettuce, or eight bunches of swiss chard, or sixteen carrots, or thirty-two radishes. Once you have harvested the vegetable, a new crop can be planted. Since one of the other premises of Square Foot Gardening is reducing the need for fertilizer, Bartholomew says you only need to add a shovel of compost prior to each new planting. Square foot gardening will meet the needs of many gardeners. However, those wanting to produce large harvests for canning, freezing, and other methods of preserving, may not find they get the quantities they want using this method. For those wanting a manageable amount of produce, this may be a great way to help limit the amount grown, although if you grow a zucchini plant, you will probably still need to sneak around after dark ‘bestowing’ your bounty on your neighbors’ doorsteps. References: Square Foot Gardening Foundation: https://squarefootgardening.org/ All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Square Foot Gardening. Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia Square foot gardening: a formula for successful intensive gardening. Michigan State University Extension Photo credits: Master Gardener Program of North Virginia (1), Michigan State Extension (2)

< Back Mindfulness in the Garden with Kids Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Winter is a lovely time to experience and appreciate nature. The muted colors and slower gardening pace allow us the opportunity to take in and observe our natural environment more closely. Observing nature in winter with the children in your life enhances the experience. Watch your children, not only learn, but interact joyfully with the peaceful winter world around them. Read this article for tips about how to experience mindfulness in our natural spaces with children. We have heard about the mental and physical benefits of time spent in nature. Winter is a time when many of the colors of the warmer seasons are muted, and there is a hush as snow covers the garden and landscape. Mindfulness speaks to an intentional approach to experiencing our natural spaces - both outdoors and inside. We can do this in all seasons, but winter is a great time to slow down and focus before the explosion of sensory stimuli we anxiously await in spring. DO Here are five ways to practice mindfulness in the garden with kids. 1. Get up close to different textures and take some time to really look. Ask your child partner what they see once the leaves have fallen and we can find the contrasts between the bark, stems, and other organic materials against the snow on the ground. 2. Continue on a walk to visit dormant perennials and bulbs you may have planted last summer and fall. Ask your child partner what they think is going on with the plants underground. 3. Calmly look around your garden. Do you see or hear signs of the creatures that spend the winter there, such as nests or tracks in the snow? What do you think it feels like for those creatures in their winter homes? 4. Find a quiet place to sit - on the ground or on a garden bench perhaps. Close your eyes and listen to the garden while taking some slow breaths in - counting 1, 2, 3 - and out - 1, 2, 3. Do this a few more times before continuing your mindful garden walk. 5. Color awareness: take some time to observe colors in your winter garden - maybe some red branches of a dogwood, or brown leaves, or even some faded yellow flowers. Can you see why some plants and trees are called evergreens? How do you feel when you look at the plants around you? Winter weather making it difficult to get outside? We can practice mindfulness in our indoor gardens too. Take a slow tour of house plants, and pause to breathe deeply at each one. Ask your child partner for their observations of color, shape, or even what they would call the plant Plant a few seeds in a pot or tray and place in a warm, bright spot. Make a practice of visiting the seeds and any sprouts, and just taking time to observe what you see. Take some cuttings of plants - such as Trandescantia - and place in a clear glass or vase of water. Pay attention to any roots that grow and ask the child how this helps the plant. Most importantly, mindfulness in our gardens and other natural spaces allows our children of all ages to slow down and practice awareness in a busy world. It’s okay if they find treasures or want to make a drawing along the way, but the focus is on the present - a good skill for gardeners of all ages! READ And here are some books to read with your child gardener: Sing a Season Song , written by Jane Yolen and illustrated by Lisel Jane Ashlock At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=sing+a+season+song On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sing-Season-Song-Jane-Yolen/dp/1568462557/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14CIL143WDVQ9&keywords=sing+a+season+song&qid=1640814878&s=books&sprefix=sing+a+season+song%2Cstripbooks%2C152&sr=1-2 If I Were a Tree , written by Andrea Zimmerman and illustrated by Jing Jing Tsong At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=If+I+were+a+tree On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/If-Were-Tree-Andrea-Zimmerman/dp/1620148013/ref=sr_1_1?crid=RITY8K7B18WU&keywords=if+i+were+a+tree&qid=1640814994&s=books&sprefix=if+i+were+a+tree%2Cstripbooks%2C101&sr=1-1 (Making Tracks) Park by Cocoretto (Board Book) At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?qu=park+cocoretto&te=&lm=NONDIGITAL On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Making-Tracks-Cocoretto/dp/1786282933/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ANJRGNFUF6L8&keywords=park+cocoretto&qid=1640815429&s=books&sprefix=park+cocoretto%2Cstripbooks%2C93&sr=1-1 Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)

< Back Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Susan Light, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Our state bee, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombas affinis) is disappearing just as we are getting to know it. Historically, the rusty patched bumble bee was broadly distributed across the eastern United States and upper midwest, as well as in southern Quebec and Ontario Canada. In 2017 the federal government listed it as endangered because their numbers had dramatically declined. There are still pockets of the rusty patched bee in Minnesota and Wisconsin and a few other states. There have been a good number of them reported by citizen scientists in and around the Twin Cities since they were listed as endangered. August and September is a good time to look for the rusty patched foraging worker bees. The exact cause of the decline is unknown, but evidence suggests an interaction between an introduced pathogen and exposure to pesticides, specifically insecticides and fungicides. Habitat loss and degradation also play an important role. As bumble bee habitats become increasingly fragmented due to urban development, the size of each population diminishes and inbreeding becomes more prevalent. Inbred populations of bumble bees show decreased genetic diversity and increased risk of decline. The rusty patched bumble bee is a social species with an annual cycle that starts in early spring when colonies are initiated by solitary queens that emerge from overwintering sites. The queen bee is the only bee that survives the winter. The cycle progresses with the production of workers throughout the summer, and ends with the production of males and new queens in late summer and early fall. Survival of the rusty patched bee and other bumble bee species require food (pollen and nectar) from abundant floral resources from April through October, undisturbed nesting habitat near floral resources and overwintering habitat for the next year’s queens. Two features distinguish the rusty patched bumble from other bumble bees: The rusty patched has a rust or brown or orange colored patch on the second segment of the abdomen going about halfway back. The hairs on the first segment are yellow. The other segments are covered with black hair. The hairs on the thorax of the rusty patched are yellow with a T-shaped area of black hairs. The rusty patched bumble bee is unique among North American bumble bees in that the queens have a different color pattern than the workers. The queens, which are usually only seen in the spring and fall, do not have a rusty patch or a black thumb-tack on their thorax. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service finalized the recovery plan for the rusty patched bumble bee in 2021. Recovery and conservation of this bumble bee isn’t possible without partners. Municipalities and private property owners play a crucial role in conservation efforts. You can play an important role. Provide habitat - Rusty patched bumble bee nests are typically 1 to 4 feet underground in abandoned rodent nests or other mammal burrows. Leave some small areas in your yard bare for the queen bees to start their nest in the spring. Don’t use pesticides if you want to encourage bumble bees to nest in your yard. Plan your garden to provide a diversity of native plants so you will have flowers that bloom during spring, summer and fall. For example, In the spring, the queen bee emerges to look for nectar and pollen from flowers like virginia bluebells, blood root, wild geraniums, golden alexander and pussy willow. She will search for a nest close to a diversity of food resources. Some summer flowering plants that support rusty patched workers are large beardtongue, slender beardtongue, hyssop, spiderwort, figwort, and butterfly milkweed. In the fall, the star flowers are goldenrods and asters. For more information on this endangered bee and other Minnesota native bees, go to the terrific new website bees mn.org There you will find close up photos of all the MN native bees, to help you ID them in your yard or nearby park. You’ll learn about the flowers they use, their nests, and life cycles. You can also find out how you can be involved in the MN State Bee conservation initiatives. Photo Credits : iNaturalist (1), www.fws.gov (2), University of Minnesota BeeLab (3)

< Back Plants for Winter Interest Marjory Blare, Master Gardener In Minnesota, the winter color palette tends toward white, brown and gray. But we need not think of this landscape as drab or uninteresting. Fill your yard with interesting shrubs and sturdy perennials to enjoy a peacefully pleasing home landscape. Read this article for several plants that liven up a winter landscape. When beautiful white snow blankets everything, it's nice to have plants that provide a contrast to that blanket. Here are several plants that liven up a winter landscape: Red or Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) These extremely hardy native shrubs add bright red or yellow stems to your yard. They can grow 6-8 feet tall and the same in width. They can take full sun to part-shade. They tolerate wet conditions and are deer-resistant. The yellow twig dogwood is a natural variant of the red. To keep the stems bright, prune out the older stems to stimulate new growth. Other common names for this shrub include: Shoemack, Waxberry Cornel, Red-Dosier Cornel, Red Willow, Red Brush, Red Rood, Harts Rouges, Gutter Tree and Dogberry Tree. As a bonus the bright twigs can be cut to add a bright vertical element to winter pots! Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) This densely-needled conifer provides a medium green note to your yard. Various cultivars range from 2-10 feet tall and 2-15' wide. It is tolerant of many soil types, but doesn't like wet feet. It is salt and pollution tolerant, deer-resistant and requires full sun. You may want to prune some of the taller varieties, which involves cutting the new growth back by half. False Cypress 'Golden Mops” (Chamaecyparis) Golden Mops forms a slightly conical mound of scaly, yellow, thread-like leaves. They grow slowly to 3-5 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide. They need full-sun to part-shade, but look greener in shade. They are drought and salt tolerant and can take some browsing by deer and rabbits. They are not too picky about soil, but don't like wet feet. Dark Green Spreader Yew (Taxus x media) This shrub that is a darker green than the Mugo pine. This shrub will easily take light, full-shade. It thrives in all soils as long as they are well-drained. It is deer-resistant. Take note that all parts of it are poisonous. Its red berries are attractive to small children. It can grow up to 10 feet tall and will generally be wider than tall. It doesn't require pruning, but does respond well to it. American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) Here is a conifer with an upright columnar habit. The native plant can reach heights of 30', but there are many cultivars such as 'Hetz Midget', that are only 3-4 feet wide by 4-5 feet tall. In hard winters, deer will forage on arborvitae. Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar. There are many other plants that can provide interest: Joe Pye Weed seed heads, tall sedum, seed heads from flowers. Ornamental grasses that provide a creamy, tan color. Look for plants that have interesting shapes, such as Henry Lauder's Walking Stick, with its twisty branches. Then there are interesting barks such as the native small tree, Serviceberry with glossy bark or (taller) river birch with exfoliating bark. Winterberry, hollies, White Baneberry (another native) and some crab-apples all hang onto their fruit into the winter. Winter is a great time to plan for next year's winter interest. Research your plants and be sure to get a soil test before planting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Marjory Blare (2, 4, 5), WWW.flickr.com Mark Bolin (3)

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Teaming with Microbes, by Jeff Lowenfels The book, Teaming with Microbes, may leave a reader inspired to learn more and in awe of the world below their feet. If that is the case, Jeff Lowenfels' book may be a good next choice. Reviewed by Stacy Reeves Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels was recommended to me upon the purchase of my first worm bin. As I took a dive into the world of vermicomposting (or perhaps I should say tunneled into), Lowenfels' book was just the ticket to increase my passion for caring for these invertebrates. Though it's not an instructional on the do's and don'ts of worm bedding, food and breeding, it does highlight the many benefits worms and other soil life contribute to a gardener's goals. Lowenfels' book is a wealth of information concerning the soil food web. It contains 24 chapters reviewing the complex relationships of anything from bacteria to mammals to trees. If a gardener is interested in soil health, organic gardening, or maximizing nature's processes, Teaming with Microbes is a great read. Lowenfels highlights how slime, wastes, exudates, and tunnels work together to create soil that is not only rich in nutrients but, more specifically, rich in nutrients that have been transformed and unlocked in such a way to be readily available for plant use. The book would be worth a second read or to be used as a reference for gardeners working to "team" as effectively as possible with their garden soil's inhabitants and systems. The overarching lesson of the book is that it's far better to encourage nature's systems than to override them and therefore, Lowenfels speaks against chemical treatments. He highlights the symbiotic, complex and dynamic relationships that exist best with all the "good guys and bad guys" at play.

< Back Shrubs With Fall Fireworks Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As the crisp air of autumn settles over Minnesota, the landscape transforms into a vibrant canvas of fiery reds, golden yellows, and deep oranges. While the towering maples and oaks often steal the spotlight, a stunning variety of fall color shrubs add rich layers and texture to the seasonal display. From the brilliant red foliage of the red chokeberry to deep purple leaves of the Flaviramea yellow stem dogwood, these hardy shrubs not only thrive in Minnesota’s climate but also bring dramatic fireworks of color to gardens, parks, and natural areas. Their dazzling hues and low-maintenance nature make them a must-have for anyone looking to extend the beauty of fall well into the season. Read this article to see which shrubs shine bright in the fall. Cause of color change in fall leaves: Fall color in leaves is driven by three pigments: chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll, the green pigment, is crucial for photosynthesis during the growing season. In the fall, the day length shortens and temperatures cool, which triggers plants to prepare for winter by reducing chlorophyll production. When chlorophyll production stops, the green color fades, revealing the yellow and orange hues of carotenoids. Also, anthocyanins, which give red and purple colors, are produced in late summer and early fall as photosynthesis slows down. Environmental factors, like warm days and cool nights enhance anthocyanin production, leading to vibrant colors. Not every shrub species produces carotenoids or anthocyanins in equal quantities. This is what creates the difference in fall color from species to species: Intensity and duration of leaf color varies with each season : Weather conditions in early fall largely determine the intensity and duration of leaf color. The best fall color shows when days in early fall are sunny and mild, and nights are cool but remain above freezing. Long periods of cloudy, rainy weather or a hard freeze in early fall will mute fall colors. Obtaining a fall shrub fireworks display : Continue to show off your beautiful garden in the fall, after the summer blooms have disappeared, with some of these shrubs: Limelight Hydrangea Chokeberry: Black chokeberry, like the "Viking" variety, yields spectacular, bright red autumn foliage and is known for less suckering, compact growth and large berries after white spring flowers. Note: The chokeberry is considered a good substitute to the burning bush, which is now considered a restrictive noxious weed in Minnesota. https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush Redosier Dogwood: The versatile, fast-growing dogwood reveals bright red or yellow stems as the season progresses. Some varieties, like the 'Flaviramea', bring red-purple fall foliage, too. Hydrangea: Choose from many Minnesota hardy hydrangea shrubs that explode with enthusiasm in the summer months and, then, grant us all an encore of mauves, greens and golden-brown flower heads in the fall. ‘Limelight' hydrangea starts with a lime-colored summer display and ends with deep pink as it ages. Staghorn Sumac: This native shrub exhibits bright reds and oranges in the fall and works well in a larger area. ‘Tiger-eyes’ sumac is a smaller selection of staghorn sumac, requiring less space in your garden. It boasts chartreuse green foliage in the spring, yellow foliage during the summer and fiery orange foliage in the fall. Staghorn Sumac There are many more shrubs that provide a pleasing color display in the fall. Maximize the color blast of your Minnesota garden with the endless fall color shrub varieties listed in the sources below. SOURCES: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-fall-color-faq https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/trees-and-shrubs-great-fall-color https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/black-chokeberry https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/redosier-dogwood https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/serviceberry https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/trees-and-shrubs https://extension.umn.edu/news/growing-hydrangea-minnesota https://trees.umn.edu/tiger-eyes-sumac-rhus-typhina-bailtiger Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2), University of Missouri, Integrated Pest Management (3)

< Back January, A Perfect Time to Re-Design Your Landscape Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener When January brings us huge snowdrifts and blustery winds do you think of Spring? Yes, it’s the perfect time to be thinking about your flower and vegetable gardens and begin making plans for re-designing your landscape. If you have these thoughts, then click on the link to learn more about basic landscape design concepts and current 2024 trends in landscaping. Landscape design is so much more than picking out the right plants for a given area. It can be so overwhelming at first that many of us put it off and live with our overgrown jungle that was landscaped 20 years ago. But the first step to landscape design is to come up with a comprehensive plan that can be tackled over time making it easier for Do-It-Yourselfers. There are many books written about landscape design but I hope to address some of the basic concepts in this short article. There are five parts to a sustainable design: 1) Functional; 2) Maintainable; 3) Environmentally Sound; 4) Cost Effective; and 5) Visually Pleasing. 1) Functional: What do you need the space to do for you. Examples include: play area for children, garden area, kitchen patio, boat, trash, or firewood storage, utilities, dog kennels, and access to the front and backyard are just a few examples of function that you should consider. 2) Maintainable : Similar to function, maintainable addresses planning for mowing areas so you don’t have to use a trimmer, creating a screen planting to provide privacy, and planning for snow storage and ice/sand/salt usage. How large a space can you take care of. Maintenance is a huge consideration in landscape design. 3) Environmentally Sound: Addresses the need to reduce the amount of fertilizer, pesticides, equipment, water, and labor usage. Rain gardens, plants that require limited mowing and pruning, and eliminating invasive plant species are just a few examples. 4) Cost Effective: You must not only factor in the initial cost of the project but also, the cost of annual maintenance in your design both in materials as well as labor. 5) Visually Pleasing: Yes, of course it needs to look good. This consideration also gets involved with plant selection, what gardeners love doing the most. Planting the right plant that will adapt to the light, water, and soil conditions is imperative in landscape design. While the basic concepts of landscape design remain consistent year over year, design elements do change over time. Below I have listed 5 of the 10 2024 Garden Design trends by GardenDesign.com . These 5 trends seemed to be consistent but not limited to other trend articles that I reviewed: 1) “Enhancing Your Garden with Edimentals” : Edimentals are plants that usually live more than one year such as shrubs, perennials, and trees. Examples include daylilies, currants, gooseberries, elderberries, fennel and asparagus. Including annual edible plants such as kale, rainbow chard, and nasturtiums can also be considered. 2) “Exploring Naturalistic Planting & the New Perennial Movement” : This consists of primarily native plants with a less manicured look to mirror nature, but it doesn’t have to been completely unmanicured. The focus is on a blend of plants that invite pollinators and wildlife. (Read Jim Lakin’s monthly Garden Buzz articles on “native” plants for ideas about plants that are appropriate for Minnesota gardens.) 3) “Preserving Every Drop with Eco-Friendly Rain Gardens” : Yes, establishing a rain garden to limit water runoff into sewers. 4) “Learning to Love Bugs”: Reducing the use of pesticides is the trend here. Becoming more tolerant of bugs and understanding that there are beneficial insects. Note, certain bugs are attracted to specific species (i.e. monarch butterfly and milkweed, rusty patched bumble bees like lupines, asters, bee balm, native prairie plants, and spring ephemerals). But of course, there are bugs that are on the invasive list such as jumping worms, pine bark beetle, and lantern fly. 5) “Adapting and Growing with a Changing Climate” : In the last few months, the USDA published a new plant zone map. Many areas across the nation and in our neck of the woods have become hotter. Adapting for this change in your plant selection process is imperative as you look to designing your future landscape. I hope you can enjoy planning, prepping, and planting your new garden bed(s) in the next few months. Check out our website resources for many articles on the topics discussed above. And spend your January dreaming and planning for your beautiful 2024 garden. Resources: Creating a Home Landscape, You Can Love & Enjoy/Sustainable Landscape Design Basics for Homeowner, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Workshop, James B. Calkins, Ph. D, 2022. GardenDesign.com , Research Garden Design, 2024 Trends in Garden Design by Rebecca Sweet, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ( fws.gov ) Rusty Patched Bumble Bee https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov ; USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), gartenideenherbst.blogspot.com/All Creative Commons (2)

< Back Water Smarter, Not Harder In the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” it’s hard to believe that some areas of Minnesota may experience shortages of clean water by the end of this decade. Pollution caused by increased population - along with climate change - make water even more precious. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. This article explains how you can be help to protect our water supply. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener You may be wondering why we need to worry about water since we live in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” but even here, fresh, drinkable water is a precious commodity and requires energy to clean it. According to the Minnesota Technical Assistance Program , “the wastewater and water treatment sectors account for as much as 3% of electricity use in the U.S. nationwide.” Since it is always there, like a reliable friend, every time we turn on the faucet, it is easy to take this precious resource for granted. In times of drought, even here in Minnesota, the population can deplete aquifers faster than they can be replenished. It is time to appreciate water and learn how to use it more wisely and efficiently - water smarter. Established Lawn and Gardens Water your lawn deeply, but less often. Typical, healthy Kentucky bluegrass lawns, common in Minnesota, need about an inch of water each week, maybe less depending on your soil and conditions. If you have been quick to turn on your sprinkler, the roots of your grass may be very shallow. By letting the soil dry out down to about a 6-inch depth, you can encourage deeper root growth and a more drought tolerant lawn. As Michigan State University reminds us, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested so you can amend it if necessary. Also, check for compactness to make sure the water you are applying can penetrate the ground. By being familiar with what you have, you are better able to meet the needs of your particular lawn, enabling you to make adjustments to the soil so that your watering techniques can be most effective. If you have a built-in sprinkler system, you may be tempted to just set it and forget it, perhaps programmed to match your city’s watering restriction schedule. ( https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/water-saving-strategies-home-lawns .) Don’t fall into that category of un-smart waterers! First, set out containers in different locations in your yard to catch the water being supplied by your sprinkler system to educate yourself on how much water you are actually giving your grass. Second, water in the morning before the heat of the day so you don’t lose a lot of water to evaporation. Winds are usually calmer first thing in the morning as well, and morning watering gives the blades a chance to dry off throughout the day to avoid providing a breeding ground for diseases to develop under wet, dark conditions that could occur if you water at night. If you do have a sprinkler system, check into rebates that may be provided by your municipality to residents who install soil moisture sensors. The sensors can be placed into the ground and set to prevent the sprinkler from running if the soil is still damp down to 6 inches below the surface. One other thing you can do to minimize frequent watering of your lawn, is to let it grow to a height of at least 3 inches. The longer stems will shade the roots to prevent drying out too quickly, while at the same time hamper weed growth in the thick, healthy lawn. Auditing Sprinkler System Similar to your lawn, a morning drink of water for your flower and vegetable gardens is a good idea. Watering the plants at their bases is another way to prevent water from sitting on the leaves which could lead to a breeding ground for molds and diseases to take hold. Soaker hoses are ideal for the garden setting to keep water off the leaves. To go the extra mile to conserve water, capturing rainwater in a barrel and reusing it to water your gardens is another smart watering idea. New Lawn and Gardens If you are starting with a blank canvas, preparing to put in a new lawn or garden, you have the opportunity to make some intentional choices during the planning stages that will set you up for success as a smart waterer. As far as lawns goes, while Kentucky bluegrass is a good choice because it has the ability to go dormant during dry spells, do some research about other winter-hardy, drought-tolerant grasses that require little or no watering. You may find a low maintenance lawn that not only requires minimal watering, it may have the added benefit of supporting pollinators. In your gardens, group together plants that have similar watering needs so you can water efficiently only where needed. ( http://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SPU/EnvironmentConservation/SmartWatering.pdf .) When you are making your plant selections for your flower gardens, it is wise whenever possible to choose native plants. Native plants are much more likely to require less water. Remember, they were here before we were and survived without us watering them. Unfortunately, we cannot plant and just forget about them. Depending on soil and runoff conditions, native plants will still need some minimal attention. Want to boost your watering smarts I.Q. even higher? Whether your garden is established or new, applying mulch around your plants in late spring after the soil has warmed will prevent the soil from drying out too quickly. As an added bonus, it will free up your time from having to pull weeds as it acts as a weed barrier. Educating yourself about smart watering techniques is the first step toward becoming a good steward of our precious water resource. If there are youngsters in your life, you can use resources like the Minnesota DNR where you can find fun games to help educate them so we can continue to have fresh, clean water for future generations. Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1,3) & University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Harvesting Seeds for Native Prairie Restoration Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Dakota County Parks and Recreation is restoring the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. This article explains the how and why of native prairie restoration through the experience of Master Gardeners in Dakota County. Learn how you, too, can help wildlife and the environment by developing your own “pocket prairie” garden. Dakota County Parks and Recreation is attempting to restore the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. The science of prairie restoration has evolved over the last century as more is learned about how to do so effectively. Why should we be interested in prairie restoration? This excerpt from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explains why: [It] buffers and creates connections between isolated native prairie remnants, thereby making the larger prairie landscape more resilient to changing environmental conditions including climate change, pesticides, and invasive species [Helps to “sequester carbon,” (stabilizing carbon in the ground rather than in the atmosphere] Promotes water infiltration and storage (recharges groundwater, flood control, reduces erosion and nutrient runoff) Provides places for people to explore and learn about prairies Provides habitat for a variety of animals, from deer to damselflies Connects people—physically, intellectually, emotionally, and spiritually—with prairie's past, present, and future Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. In Dakota County, prairie restoration is done by collecting and using native seeds from its own “remnant prairies” (true native prairies) (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. “Restored native prairies” are prairies that have been restored with seeds from true native prairies or those plants’ descendants. Recently, Sam Talbot, a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, met with Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) to collect native plant seeds from “restored prairies.” One group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park and the other, at Whitetail Woods Regional Park. Note - seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. The purpose of this particular outing was to collect seed for various uses by the DCMGV. The seeds from these older restored prairies are not used as a source for new restorations so DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the free Seed Library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow . The rest of the seeds will be grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the group’s May Plant Sale. Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. In the fall, it is much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. On this day, Sam had arrived earlier and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup Plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie Cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild Bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into the envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he will host another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” You also have a role to play in restoring native prairies and improving our environment. You can plant a "pocket prairie" in your yard. Even small prairie gardens can provide habitat for pollinators and other wildlife and give you the joy of a beautiful natural landscape. Each month, this publication has been and will continue to feature native plants that you can grow in your garden. To learn more about native prairies and native gardening, go the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site noted above. Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1, 2, 3)