< Back Terrariums - A Garden in a Bottle Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Are you looking for an easy way to enjoy a live project with your child or grandchild over the Winter? How about creating a simple Terrarium that not only will be easy to care for but will also add a living garden to your home. All you need to begin is an open or enclosed glass or plastic container and a variety of planting materials. Preparing the terrarium is not only enjoyable, but picking out the container, pebbles/rocks and a few little decorations to go inside is an added bonus. Choose an enclosed container and create your own low maintenance mini-ecosystem. It begins when you water the completed terrarium (misting is best) and place the cover on. The soil releases water vapor which begins to collect on the walls of the container. This moisture then runs down the side of the container back into the soil and the process begins again. The open container terrarium is not truly a mini-ecosystem, but it does allow for additional interaction including watering and ease of interchanging decorations within the terrarium. Find the following terrarium supplies (check out your local thrift shops, dollar stores & local nurseries): Glass or plastic container of your choice (enclosed or open) Pebbles, aquarium gravel that comes in a variety of colors; (larger stones/rocks can be used for large containers) Activated Charcoal (use especially if making an enclosed terrarium - activated charcoal prevents odors and helps to prevent fungi) Moss - optional but good to use in keeping soil from washing down into gravel/rocks Plants – careful not to choose plants that will outgrow the container Decorations - items that can be placed inside the terrarium Decorative Sand - optional to place on top of dirt for decoration Water & Sunshine (bright indirect sunlight) Terrarium Prep & Planting: Place a layer of pebbles, aquarium gravel or small stones/rocks - 1 to 2 inches deep Spread a quarter to a half inch of Activated Charcoal on top of the pebbles A layer of sheet moss can then be placed over the charcoal and pebbles - this will prevent the next layer of potting soil to seep through Use your favorite potting soil and add about 1 to 2 inches of soil to the terrarium. Time to Plant & Decorate Pick plants based on the size of the container (mini or dwarf plants are available) In enclosed terrariums use plants that enjoy humidity (moss, ferns) Succulents and cacti do well in open terrariums Plants that do well in terrariums - Ferns, dwarf palms, moss, peperomia, polka dot plant and pilea just to name a few. Use a small hand trowel or a spoon to dig small holes for plants Decorate your terrarium with fun small figurines, rocks, sticks and more. Decorative sand can also be spread on the top to provide a decorative finish. How to Care for My Terrarium Place your terrarium in bright indirect light During the Winter months a grow light might need to be used to provide enough light for your terrarium Water sparingly - Don’t overwater Open Terrarium - use a spray bottle or provide small amounts of water with a spoon once a week or when the soil is dry Closed Terrarium - depending on humidity within the container and soil dryness, watering may only be needed every 3-5 months Your terrarium is complete! Enjoy watching it grow! Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,4), Thegardendiaries.wordpress.com (3)

< Back Lasagna Soup Lasagna Soup Too many tomatoes? Basil that needs a recipe? This month’s Vegetable Section features “Lasagna soup” that uses both garden vegetables. As fall days become cooler, we can all use a comforting, hearty soup. Lasagna soup is a hearty meal option and with the addition of focaccia bread and a green vegetable, you will have a comfy meal fit for company. Click on the following link to view the recipe. The site adds information on how to freeze lasagna soup, a crockpot version and other substitutions. There is also a link to a quick marinara sauce. Replace purchased sauce with cooked garden tomatoes. Stew 10 or more medium to large tomatoes and follow the recipe. Bow tie or other shaped pasta may be substituted if lasagna noodles are not on the pantry shelf. Top the soup with the following ricotta/parmesan topping. Lasagna Soup Topping 6 tbsp shredded mozzarella cheese 1/2cup part skim ricotta cheese 3 tbsp grated parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup fresh basil chiffonade Bon Appetit! Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (all)

< Back Cooking with Frozen Vegetables (And a St. Patrick’s Day Nod) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s not too early to order seeds for your vegetable garden this summer but first, you need to use up all those vegetables left over from last summer that are sitting in your freezer. Joy Johnson’s Minestrone soup will help you do just that. Add some Irish soda bread for a great St. Patrick’s Day meal. The ground is still frozen in Dakota County and I don’t have anything growing in my garden. However, I have received some seed catalogs already and I’ve even seen a rack of seed packets for sale at the store. You may be thinking about starting some vegetable plants early indoors. It’s always so fun to see the little seedlings sprout. I just realized that if I’m going to grow more vegetables this year, I need to clean out my freezer and use all the ones I froze last year. I have been using my frozen produce all winter long, see my past recipes! But I do still have a variety of veggies in my freezer. I like to cook in large batches so I have food to share with other family members, or just so I don’t have to cook for a few days, and we can live on leftovers. I have a recipe that I’ve been making for years that uses my frozen veggie stash and makes plenty to share. A bonus – everyone who has eaten it has loved it. The recipe is flexible, so if you don’t have one of the veggies, or you want to add in something that is not listed, feel free to experiment. This recipe is from The Saint Paul Farmers Market Produce Cookbook. Minestrone Soup 6 cups beef broth 1 (15 oz.) can great northern, cannellini or lima beans 1 large potato, peeled and dices 2 carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 white or yellow onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 ½ cups green cabbage, chopped 1 cup zucchini, cubed 1 cup green beans, cut in 1-inch lengths ½ lb. spinach or Swiss chard, chopped 3 cups Italian plum tomatoes, chopped ½ cup small shell macaroni or other pasta, uncooked ½ tsp each dried oregano and rosemary (or 1 tsp. each, fresh or frozen, chopped) 1 tsp dried basil (or 2 tsp fresh or frozen chopped) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Grated Parmesan cheese In a large stockpot, bring beef broth to a boil. Add cannellini beans, potato, carrots and celery. Simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes. (If using frozen peppers, no need to sauté). Add to broth mixture and simmer another 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini, green beans, and spinach or Swiss chard. Simmer 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, pasta, oregano, rosemary, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer another 15 minutes or until pasta is cooked. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Makes 15 servings. A bread that goes well with Minestrone, and gives a nod to Saint Patrick’s Day, is Irish Soda Bread. The recipe that I’m sharing with you here is an authentic Irish recipe. My elderly neighbor who is 100% Irish has verified that it is a true Irish soda bread because it has raisins and caraway seeds. Irish Soda Bread 3 ½ cups flour 2/3 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 ½ cup raisins Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl mix together these wet ingredients: 1 1/3 cups buttermilk 2 eggs beaten 4 Tbsp melted butter ½ tsp vanilla 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 Tbsp carraway seeds Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. I use an actual Irish soda bread pan, it’s like a 9” round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons (1) & Flickr (2)

< Back Sweet Potatoes and a Sweet Winter Treat Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Sweet potatoes are a lovely garden plant. They are a low calorie but highly nutritious food and have a beautiful color. Sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall and are pretty easy to store over the winter. Best of all, they taste great. You will love this sweet potato recipe from Master Gardener Joy Johnson along with a bonus sweet treat. I want to encourage you to grow sweet potatoes. They are a lovely garden plant, although their vines do take up a lot of room in the garden. The sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall just before the first hard frost. It’s pretty easy to store an abundant crop of sweet potatoes in your home over the winter. That process can be found easily online. The sweet potatoes that I used in this recipe were ones that were grown last fall and stored over the winter. They are a low calorie highly nutritious food and of course have a beautiful color. This recipe makes use of your crockpot but it could also be baked in the oven. Balsamic Seasoned Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 2 lbs chicken thighs (You can use boneless skinless if you prefer) 14 oz fat free chicken broth One cup dry white wine, or Moscato if you prefer a sweeter broth One tablespoon balsamic vinegar One teaspoon dried thyme One teaspoon olive oil ½ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon caraway seeds (you can also use fennel seeds) 4 sweet potatoes ½ of a large onion sliced Coat a large skillet with cooking spray and heat over high heat, add the chicken and cook until browned on all sides. Let cool slightly. Combine the broth, wine, vinegar, and thyme in the crock pot. Add the chicken. Rub the exposed area of the chicken with the oil, sprinkle with the pepper and caraway seeds. Arrange the potatoes and onions around the chicken. Cover and cook on low until the chicken is tender the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 170 degrees F and the potatoes are tender: 8 to 10 hours on low or six to 8 hours on high. OR put the chicken in a large, deep casserole dish, pour the broth mixture over, add the spices, put the potatoes in, layering them with the chicken. Cover and bake in a 350-degree oven for two hours or until chicken registers 170 degrees and potatoes are done. Serve this with rice or mashed potatoes or toast because you have a lot of delicious broth. Chinese Almond Cookies April 9th is national Chinese almond cookie day. Even though there are no ingredients that come from your garden, I thought you would enjoy this Chinese American treat that aren't authentically Chinese. Their round shape symbolizes coins and good luck. They are traditionally served for Chinese New Year. Here are a couple tips to make your cookies a success. · Make sure the butter is cold · Use almond flour not almond meal · Do not skip refrigerating the dough for two hours Ingredients 1 1/3 cups almond flour lightly packed 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes A pinch of salt 2 large eggs, divided 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup +2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking soda thinly sliced almonds, for decoration Place the almond flour, salt, and butter into an electric mixer with a paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for three minutes. The mixture will become coarse and chunky looking. Add one of the eggs and the almond extract. Mix them in on low speed just until incorporated. Sift the flour, sugar, and baking soda together, and add to the mixture. Mix on low speed until just combined. Take the dough and flatten it into a disc and wrap in plastic wrap. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours to chill. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg. Take pieces of dough and roll them into balls about 3/4 inch wide. Place them on the sheet about an inch apart and then press them down slightly with your palm to make a coin shape. Press 1 slivered almond into the center of each cookie. Then using a pastry brush or your finger, paint each cookie with the beaten egg. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until the edges just begin to tan. Cool on the sheet on a wire rack. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener Not all bulbs are bulbs: Understanding the different types: True Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes Not all of what we home gardeners call bulbs are—technically speaking—bulbs. Horticulturists identify different structures for different flowers, and these terms highlight the great variety we find amongst our favorite flowers. A true bulb has a plate from which roots will shoot, and is made up of several scales or layers like garlic bulbs that contain nutrients for its growth. True bulbs include daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, and tulips. Corms, like crocuses and gladioli, have a similar plate of roots, but no scales; they are a solid, compressed food storage unit. Tubers, like dahlias and begonias, bud from an enlarged rootlike structure which multiplies underground like potatoes, while rhizomes, like canna lilies and lily-of-the-valley, are horizontal structures that look like swollen stems. The horticultural name for bulbs—for all true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers —is geophytes. It’s fitting, as “geo” means “earth” and “phyte” means plant. These plants of the earth all have underground storage organs from which they will grow. Hardy versus Tender Much like Minnesota retirees, the most important distinction amongst geophytes is where they will spend the winter. Do they like the cold or will they need warmer weather? Hardy bulbs are tough enough to survive outside in the wintertime. In fact, that cold snap is vital! Because of this, hardy bulbs are planted in autumn and will bloom for the first time the following spring. Hardy bulbs are often the first flowers to appear in spring: snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and more. They must be buried to the appropriate depth, and in an area with good drainage. Although hardy bulbs can stay in the ground indefinitely, they do require some maintenance. Every 3-4 years, hardy bulbs may need to be dug up and divided to prevent overcrowding. Tender bulbs are too delicate for winter and must be removed from our gardens before a frost sets in. Stored indoors during winter, they can be planted again in late spring for late summer or autumn blossoms. Canna lilies, begonias, freesia, gladiolus, and dahlias are amongst the most popular tender bulbs. Learn how to care for bulbs and rhizomes over the winter to prevent problems and rot. Take care when digging up bulbs, clean the soil from them gently, and in some cases, let them cure for a week in the sunlight before storing them in paper bags out of the light during winter months. For more information, read this article from the U of M Extension. If you want to plant hardy bulbs, you will have to wait for the fall. But you can still plant tender bulbs this spring for enjoyment during the summer. Resources: U of MN Extension: Planting Bulbs, Tubers, and Rhizomes. https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#soil-preparation-1410662 University of FL: Geophytes. https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/07-geophytes/01-bulbs/02-geophytes-bulbs.html Photo Credits: U of M Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3)

< Back You Fall Garden Clean Up Check List Julie Harris, Master Gardener The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. It can reduce the spread of weeds and disease, reduce insect pests, prevent rodent infestation and, finally – ease your workload in the spring. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. 1. Plant spring bulbs. Yes, you are not thinking about planting this time of year but make an exception for spring bulbs. Just think ahead to April and May when bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus and allium provide the color that you have missed over the winter. Here are previous Garden Buzz articles about planting daffodils and protecting bulbs . 2. Remove and store tender bulbs that you want to replant in the spring, such as: anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, calla lilies, canna, dahlias and gladiola. See this UMN article for more information about how to do so correctly. 3. Clean your garden but try to do so on sunny dry days in the late morning or afternoon. Pulling plants when the garden is wet can spread disease in the garden. In addition, walking on wet soil can damage the soil structure. 4. Cut back perennials but wait until the plant is no longer green. You may want to leave some plants up through the winter . In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. 5. Bag and throw away infested plants. Put healthy plants on your compost pile. Fall is a good time to remove vines from fences and other supports when the stems are firmer. 6. Pull out and clean garden labels, stakes, cages and trellises. Pull up black plastic from the garden as it can harbor insects. If you have garden art, clean and put it away unless you want it to provide some winter interest. 7. Rake your garden beds to remove plant debris. You may spread shredded tree leaves evenly on your garden bed, tilling them in to a shallow depth. 8. Rake the leaves on your lawn then mow lawn one last time. Mow with your blade at 2 inches to reduce the chance of snow mold. Then clean and service your lawn mower so it will be ready to go in the spring. 9. Prepare any houseplants that you left outside all summer before bringing them inside. Examine plants for insects; clean out plant debris that may be on the soil surface; clean the saucer and pot. Consider whether the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot after spending the summer growing in the sun. 10. Protect your plants and trees. Wrap sensitive evergreens to reduce potential wind damage. Put tree guards or cloth cages around young trees and shrubs to prevent sunscald damage and animal damage. Read these articles by Dakota County Master Gardeners for more information about protecting trees and plants from winter damage. https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/taking-care-of-and-protecting-trees-before-winter ; https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/preparing-your-trees-and-evergreens-for-winter 11. Now is a good time have your soil tested. Send your sample to the UMN Soils Lab. The report will provide recommendations for improving your soil health. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ for instructions. 12. Clean and sharpen your tools and containers before storing them away for the winter. Wash pots and tools with a diluted bleach or 70% rubbing alcohol solution. Cleaning will help prevent the spread of diseases and unwanted weed seeds and insect eggs. It will also help to prolong the life of your tools. And, don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the spectacular color display that your garden is providing this time of year! References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/final-fall-do-list https://extension.umn.edu/news/putting-your-garden-bed https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-clean-time-remove-annual-vines Photo credits: www.ag.ndsu.edu (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4), Karna Berg (5)

< Back The Minnesota Lawn Guide: Attaining and Maintaining the Lawn You Want Gail Maifeld The Minnesota Lawn Guide, by Melinda Myers will give you tips on growing the perfect lawn in Minnesota. Whether establishing a new lawn, restoring an existing one or fixing spots, this easy to read book will help answer all your questions. Fall is cleanup time for the garden. The drought of the 2021growing season has been a challenge for all gardening. Watering restrictions presented challenges for lawn care. Melinda Myer’s book, The Minnesota Lawn Guide, provides fall procedures that would be helpful to revitalize a lawn. Written in plain language the author addresses variable weather, unpredictable rain, and long harsh winter effects on grass. Good soil is the foundation for a healthy lawn so a soil test is recommended. Individual chapters about watering, fertilizing, mowing, turf varieties, and the best seeds are included. THE MINNESOTA LAWN GUIDE is a necessary reference for the new lawn process, lawn restoration, and spot restorations. Melinda Myers is a well-known PBS presenter, has 13 years experience at the University of Wisconsin Extension Service, and is editor/columnist for Birds & Bloom Magazine.

< Back Parsnips a Favorite Winter Vegetable Katie Possis, Master Gardener The parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Pastinaca sativa commonly known as the parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Late spring to late summer when the soil temperature is not colder than 46 degrees Fahrenheit is the best time to plant parsnip seeds in full sun or partial sun. Planting companion plants between the rows such as radishes, chives or violas will help fully utilize space in the garden bed. Delicate is the best way to describe the parsnip roots therefore, for best results seeds need to be planted directly into the ground. Plant in loamy soil, which is light, fine soil without compacted clay and well-draining. Well worked soil is preferred to sow seeds ½ inch deep and 6 inches apart. The PH balance needs to be between 6-8, if working with clay-type soil it is best to work in compost to prevent the plant from struggling with root development. After 3 weeks, the parsnip seed will germinate and at 6 weeks it is important to thin out the seedlings. Gloves need to be worn and long sleeves as the leaves and sap of the parsnip plant can be irritating to the skin. During the growing season, it is important to keep the moisture levels consistent as the plants prefer to be watered deeply and will not tolerate drought. If the parsnips are watered irregularly, the parsnip will become tough, which is not the desired result. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation during the first month and a half may be helpful. Mulch around the plants will also aid in obtaining the correct moisture level. Due to the longer growing season, 100-120 days it is necessary to keep up with weed management to ensure proper air flow around the plants. Although parsnips are relatively pest and disease free a few pests to anticipate and manage exist such as caterpillars, carrot fly maggots, and aphides. Caterpillars tend to munch on the leaves. The best course of action is to hand pick the caterpillars off when they appear. To manage the carrot fly maggots plant chives along-side the parsnips which is a natural repellent for the maggots. Aphids also eat parsnips so washing them away with water is the best course of action. Disease such as parsnip canker can be managed by clearing away the previous years plant material that may reside in the soil as it can harbor parsnip canker spores. Harvest the parsnips after a frost or two as the roots become sweeter by turning the starch to sugar. The greens will begin to die back which is the signal for the time to harvest. Gloves are an excellent idea when harvesting. Take great care to loosen the soil around the plants before extracting them from the ground. Extraction is a downward push followed by an upward pull. Remove dirt gently with a brush, remove the green tops and discard, then wash in cold water and pat dry. Leaving the skin on will enhance the flavor of the parsnip. The parsnip is now ready to eat or store. There are several ways to store parsnips: freezing, dehydration or in a container of sand in the basement. To freeze parsnips, start with cleaning, next peel, trim and cut into pieces, blanch in water then transfer into a freezer bag, they will store up to 2-3 months in the freezer. Dehydration drying can take place in a conventional oven at 140 degrees this process can take 20-24 hours the result will store for 4 months to a year. Store in a container of sand in the basement by covering the parsnips entirely with sand and keeping them in a cool, dark place they will store for up to 4 months. Enjoy this winter vegetable in a delicious soup Roasted Vegetable Soup Recipe | Ina Garten | Food Network it’s a shining example of the depth of flavor a parsnip will add to a winter soup. Parsnips are a wonderful accompaniment to fish, beef or poultry. Search | Bon Appetit for a purist parsnip puree recipe. Roasted parsnips bring out the nutty sweetness and taste delicious. Enjoy the roasted goodness sprinkled with a little olive oil and fresh oregano and thyme. Give the parsnip a try, it will not disappoint in winter dishes nor in the garden. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Creative Commons (2)

< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Sugar maple (Acer saccharum): A Sweetheart Year ‘Round Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener With this article, Jim Lakin is launching a series on native Minnesota trees. The first of these trees is the sugar maple. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. This tree has so many attractive characteristics that it is widely revered across many northern states. In this article, you will learn why you might want a sugar maple in your yard and how to give it the care that it needs to become a beautiful specimen tree. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. As a kid, I was fascinated by those hearty Vermonters tapping this noble tree for its sugary sap, boiling it down to the delicious maple syrup that graced my morning pancakes. Indeed, the sugar maple is so much a part of Americana that it is the official tree of no less than four states—New York, Vermont, Wisconsin and West Virginia. Its leaf graces the center of Canada’s flag. Also reflecting is ubiquity in folk usage, it is known alternately as "rock maple," "sugar tree," "sweet maple," "hard maple," "bird’s eye maple," or "curly maple”. As you might expect for such a noble species, its distribution is wide ranging from the Eastern Seaboard, westward into central Minnesota, Iowa, the Ozarks and up the Missouri River Valley into Kansas. Sugar maple is shade tolerant, so it quickly gains a foothold in the understory of mesic woodlands. It can be grown from seed, if you are patient. However, if you are transplanting a sapling, be sure that your specimen is locally sourced. It is a highly variant plant and adapts to local conditions stringently. An “outsider” will often not fare as well as one of the natives of the area. The sugar maple is a fine shade tree albeit a huge one. When siting your planting be aware that it can ultimately grow to 60 to 100 feet in height with a circumference that will vary depending on its neighbors. Although it can grow and dominate an understory, it doesn’t stay there! Another consideration is that it is a deciduous tree. All those wonderful red-yellow fall leaves will drop come winter. Also, in the spring you’ll see a vigorous production of samaras, pairs of winged seeds. So, if you are trying to maintain one of those squeaky-clean suburban lawns, keep your rake at-the-ready! Sugar Maple is a long-lived tree, persisting for 200 years and occasionally 300. It will bear seeds at about 30 years and should not be tapped for sap until about 50 years of age. Since it does require a hard frost for proper dormancy, it is not seen in proliferation beyond USDA zones 3 to 5. Although well-adapted to its native environment, human activity has taken a toll on the sugar maple population. Air pollution, acid rain and soil acidification have decimated many populations. Street salting has destroyed sugar maples as street trees, leading to their replacement with the more tolerant non-native Norway Maple. Givern these limitations, however, the sugar maple will grow well in a variety of soils, although good drainage is a must. It is not a flood plain tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, so in a few years with relatively little care, you will be rewarded with a luscious shade-tree and a glorious blaze of fall color. Photo Credits: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003644 (1), https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003638 (2)

< Back Planning Your Garden for Next Year Begins Now! The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? Read this article for a reminder of some gardening fundamentals that may help you attain gardening success next year. Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? The Master Gardeners in Dakota County grow gardens that trial vegetable and flower varieties for the UMN Extension. Much of the produce from these gardens is delivered to local food shelves so success is important. These gardeners also review garden wins and disappointments as they consider future practices. In early fall I chatted with Master Gardeners at one of the seed trial and community gardens about their gardening practices. Of course, every year is different. While drought was an issue last year, this year the impacts of a very wet year were top of mind. Even so, the team kept returning to fundamental practices. This article will encourage you to look at your garden through the lens of these practices. And I’ll share some reflections from the seed trial garden. Fundamental Practices 1. Start with quality seeds and plants Locate reputable sources through research. Look at their growing practices and ask other gardeners for their favorite sources. Are your plants suitable for our northern climate? ( Hardiness zones 5a (in some places) and above ) Look for disease resistance or tolerance, especially if disease has been a problem. If purchasing plants locally, look for signs of insects and disease. “Reject any plant with dark, discolored or soft sunken spots on leaves, stems or roots.” UMN Extension 2. Maintain a healthy, living soil - Add organic materials to your soil in combination with soil testing. Know your soil. UMN extension recommends testing every 3-5 years. I am 100% convinced I need a soil test for my garden because the same plant that struggled in my garden produced beautiful red peppers in a new garden bed! You can obtain a soil test through the UMN soil testing lab for a small fee. The test will give you the estimated soil texture, pH (acidity), percent of soil organic matter and levels of phosphorus(P) and potassium(K). There are optimal levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus, and Potassium for plant growth. For example, too much nitrogen can stunt growth and, in some plants, may encourage leaf growth but delay fruiting. Finally, the soil test will recommend soil amendments and fertilizers that address any deficiencies that are found. Add organic matter as needed. A common practice is to add a couple inches of compost each year. Consider cover crops . Do frequent health checks - disease and pests can establish very quickly. Remove diseased material immediately and clean your tools. Only fully composted disease-free compost should be returned to the garden. Rotate Crops. Diseases are usually shared within a plant family. Did you know peppers and tomatoes and eggplant are in the same Solanaceae (nightshade) family? UMN extension references: Soil testing for lawns and gardens Compost and soil organic matter: “The more, the merrier?” Living soil, healthy garden 3. Maintain moist but not water-logged soil Moisture is tightly coupled with soil health. Saturated soil can lead to nitrogen loss and flooding can prevent the roots from taking up oxygen and other nutrients. Assess watering practices in the garden - Watering from above can cause disease to splash up from the soil and over saturate plant material. Soaker hoses are one option to minimize spread of diseases. Improve drainage as needed – One strategy to control water is raised beds. Forming raised beds ensures good drainage, which is more crucial for some plant families. An example of this is the Gourd family (Cucurbitaceae): cucumber, melon, summer and winter squash, pumpkin and gourd. Use mulch wisely. Mulch keeps soil moist longer and helps maintain healthy soil by limiting loss of nutrients from runoff. Use mulch that is both disease and chemical free (e.g. wet mulch may be diseased and avoid grass clippings from a treated lawn). UMN extension references: Watering the Vegetable Garden Raised Bed Gardens Fertilizing and Watering Container Plants 4. Maintain airflow between plants - Be generous with spacing. Provide appropriate structure to maximize airflow and keep produce off the ground. Take into consideration the weight of produce and the spacing increments; for example, a pole bean loves twining around a string, peas love some chicken wire and tomatoes need a good strong cage. Get these in place early and keep an eye out, as plants often need ‘training’. Prune as needed. An indeterminate tomato plant, for example, will keep growing. Prune plants if crowding impacts airflow and sunlight. UMN extension references: Trellises and Cages to support garden vegetables Preventing Plant Diseases in the Garden 5. Invite pollinators in Combining vegetables and flowers in one area is becoming more common. Mixing not only helps with plant pollination but provides more color and variety, keeping the garden beautiful and supporting beneficial insects. See article “ Companion Gardens are the Best ” And finally, what reflections on the year did the seed trial and community garden gardeners come up with? In general, it was a very wet year and overall production was lower than previous years. Beans struggled early but rebounded in late summer as the sun returned and the soil was no longer saturated. Despite valiant efforts to manage squash beetles and limit impact of mildew and other disease, squash and cucumber plants eventually succumbed. Tomato and pepper plants started slow but were very productive in the long run despite some tomato blight. A mulch of loose, not too dense straw was a good choice and plants were spaced for sufficient airflow. Cocoa mulch smelled delicious but became wet, compressed and slick from the rain. Flowers and pollinators were abundant and admired. At the end of September, the team is still delivering quality produce to the food shelf: And that is success! I hope in this recap of gardening fundamentals you will find a couple of helpful strategies to try next gardening season. Each year is a bit of an adventure - expect the unexpected, learn and be willing to adapt. Happy gardening! If you need assistance beyond the articles provided, try these resources: Contacts for yard and garden: Ask a Master Gardener Diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases and nonliving factors: What’s wrong with my plant? Photo Credits: Alyce Neperud (1,3-8), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back From Our House to Yours: Winter Sowing Native Plants for You! Master Gardeners strive to be stewards of the environment. To that end, the Dakota County Master Gardener program seeks ways to support the efforts of community members to practice good gardening in their own yards. Planting native plants in your garden is one of those good gardening practices. To support that practice, the Master Gardeners’ Propagation Team grows native plants from local seeds that you can buy at our annual plant sale in May. In this article, learn how Master Gardeners collect, prepare and grow the native seeds. Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Master Gardeners using cleaning boards to clean native seeds Did you know that Dakota County Master Gardeners grow many of the native plants that we offer at our annual Plant Sale? At next year’s sale (on May 16, 2026, at the Western Service Center in Apple Valley from 8 until noon), you will find the 48 types of natives that our Propagation Team is growing this winter. There will also be shrubs, native grasses, and other plants that we obtain from local vendors. Our growing for the Plant Sale actually started in September and October, when we collected ripe native plant seeds from our own gardens. In November, we brought bags of dried seeds to the new Dakota County Parks’ greenhouse in Lebanon Hills Regional Park for cleaning. The Parks graciously allowed our approximately 15 volunteers to use their cleaning boards to crush seed capsules, scrub away the fuzz and chaff, and sieve the seeds. Master Gardeners sorting and cleaning seed It’s a time-consuming process, but important--removing the chaff means the seeds can get better soil contact at planting time. instrument to remove chaff from the seed; seeds in bottom cup are blown to the top of the tube where the lighter chaff is collected in side tubes. Seed sinks to bottom with less chaff Cleaned seeds that need no stratification were placed in envelopes, and are being kept in a cool, dark place until planting time in April. The rest of the seeds that required cold stratification (see Jessie Thompson’s article describing cold stratification in this January issue) for 10, 30, or 60 days went on to a second group of volunteers for winter sowing. Winter sowing is an easy process you can do yourself at home. All it takes is a plastic container that is at least two inches deep, damp potting soil to fill the container, seeds, water, a magic marker, and Mother Nature. Right after we cleaned the seeds in November, our volunteers punched holes in the tops and bottoms of containers that once held lettuce, strawberries, and grapes. Each container was filled with dampened potting soil. We planted the seeds at the proper planting depth. Finally, we labeled each container with the plant’s name and the date those seeds would complete the necessary cold stratification. Three Master Gardeners took all the containers home, watered them deeply, and set them alongside our homes. Mother Nature has taken it from there. The containers behind my garage were exposed to rain in the fall and are now covered with snow. Starting January 15, the first group of native plant seeds will complete cold stratification. More volunteers will take those containers, bring them inside their warm homes, and put them under grow lights. They will keep the seeds watered until they germinate. The little seedlings will keep growing in our homes until they go to the greenhouse for transplanting on April 1. From there, more Master Gardeners will tend to the seedlings and help them grow into healthy, mature plants suitable for our May Plant Sale. Look for more information about our Plant Sale this spring and consider bringing some of these native, home-grown plants for your yard. native Common Ironweed Photo Credits : MB Kufrin (1-3), www.flickr.com (4)