< Back There Is Science Behind Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Believe it or not, the snow will melt soon and your thoughts will turn from shoveling to lawn care. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes, to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. The University of Minnesota turf specialists have for years studied various methods of lawn care in order to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of human, water, and fertilizer resources needed. As it turns out, the best time to plant new grass or reseed your lawn is actually in early Fall not Spring. Dethatching and aerating your lawn are also best left for Fall. Spring is the second best time to plant new grass or re-seed your lawn. The U of MN Extension has developed an extremely handy lawn care calendar to make it easier to follow the science behind lawn care. Following this calendar will produce better results with less effort and hopefully, fewer chemical applications. The trick with Spring is practicing patience as you see your lawn emerge from the snow. For example, many people add fertilizer too early in the Spring. This will just encourage the grass to grow when it’s dormant or when growing should be slow. One of the most common Spring problems is grey snow mold. This has the appearance of whitish dead patches. The blades of grass are usually matted down with a fungal fuzz. This disease thrives on extra fertilizer almost as much as the snow so adding fertilizer will make it worse. Instead, to treat snow mold, rake the matted grass in order to allow for additional air flow. It will take time for the fungus to die and the grass to grow back, but generally, a fungicide is not needed. Also note that once the weather has turned warm, don’t spray for weed control. It’s too late and will increase the chance of damaging your lawn. Climate change is having an impact on our environment and one way to help your lawn is to consider adding some fescue grasses to your lawn mix during Fall re-seeding. Kentucky bluegrass is gorgeous but also needs a lot of water compared to fine fescue, for example. Another option is to consider adding a raingarden in order to retain the water runoff in your yard versus the storm sewers. Improved technologies have been developed such as “smart” irrigation controllers, soil moisture sensors and more efficient sprinklers to more effectively manage water use. If you do have a sprinkler system, please check it every Spring by running through a short cycle to make sure the sprinkler heads are in good working condition and not wasting water. The bottom-line is there is science behind lawn care and following a lawn care calendar and best practices can achieve a better result with fewer resources needed. Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar https://extension.umn.edu/news/practice-patience-spring-lawn-care https://turf.umn.edu/help-lawn-water-conservation Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back A Recipe for Your Early Vegetables Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Warm weather, warm spice, warm dinner! It’s wonderfully warm out and Joy Johnson’s garden is in all its glory. Zucchini, yellow squash, early tomatoes, spinach and sweet peppers are starting to ripen. It’s time to cook up a delicious turkey curry, with a homemade blend of spices. The fragrance will whisk you away to far off India. It’s a warm way to include all your early vegetables or farmers market purchases in one dish. To cool off, add a minty fruit salad. It’s wonderfully warm out, my garden is in all its glory. It’s time to cook up a delicious turkey curry, with a homemade blend of spices. This makes a pot full, so invite the neighbors or grandkids for a mid-summer garden meal. I included turkey as the main protein source, but you could also use chicken, pork or tofu. Brown the tofu after cutting it into 1-inch cubes and add it at the end, stirring gently to warm through. It pairs well with a hearty bread. I made whole wheat sour dough, the recipe for which I’ve shared in a past issue. Turkey Curry Ingredients : 2 Tablespoons peanut oil 1 white onion chopped 4 minced garlic cloves 2 Tablespoon minced fresh ginger 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander ½ teaspoon turmeric ¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste 1 cup chopped tomatoes 1 cup chopped zucchini 1 cup chopped yellow squash 2 sliced carrots ½ cup each chopped yellow, red and orange sweet pepper 2 – 3 cups cooked chopped turkey, chicken, pork or tofu 13.5 oz. can of coconut milk 2 cups chopped spinach leaves Salt Procedure : Heat oil in a large saucepan or skillet; add onion, garlic and ginger and cook until they begin to soften, about 2-3 minutes. Add cumin, coriander, turmeric and cayenne and cook, stirring, until spices are fragrant, about another minute. Add all the chopped vegetables, except the tomatoes and the spinach. Stir constantly until slightly cooked - about 5-7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices and coconut milk. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper, simmer for another 8 – 10 minutes or until tomatoes break down. Add spinach and turkey to pan and continue to cook until spinach wilts and turkey is warmed through another 3-5 minutes. Summer Minty Melon Salad A fresh fruit salad is a great side dish. This minty melon salad is a colorful and tasty delight. It hints of a Greek influence with the cucumbers, mint and, of course, crumbled feta cheese. I must confess that I don’t grow my own melons. My garden is too small for the vines and the pests always beat me to them, so I gave up. My hat’s off to you, if you successfully grow melons of any sort – make sure to try this recipe that highlights their juicy sweetness. Ingredients : 4 cups cubed mixed melon 3 cucumbers, seeded and thinly sliced ½ cup fresh basil, sliced if leaves are large 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice of one lemon or lime 2 Tablespoons raw honey 2 Tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh chives ¼ to ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled ¼ cup toasted pistachios or pine nuts Process : Toasting the pistachios is an extra step, but worth it – it emphasizes the warm flavors. Place them in a dry skillet over medium-low heat and stir constantly until they’re fragrant and a shade or two darker, 3-5 minutes. Watch closely, they can go from perfectly toasted to black and very burned in a flash! (speaking from experience here). In a large serving bowl, combine the melon, cucumbers, and basil, gently toss to mix. To make the vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, honey, mint and chives. Season with red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Drizzle half the vinaigrette over the salad, gently tossing to coat. Add the feta and pistachios, then drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the top. Garnish the salad with more basil before serving. Serve immediately! Photo credits: Joy Johnson ( 1-4)

< Back Root Veggie Tart Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Root veggies are popular to grow in home gardens, easy to store, and very nutritious. This “Root Veggie Tart” was a winner with Joy Johnson’s entire family. A delicious and nutritious vegetable treat with fresh or stored root veggies. I made this tart for Easter dinner last spring and taste tested it on 24 of my relatives. Since everyone loved it, from oldest to youngest I thought I’d share it with you. The veggies I used were ones that had been stored over the winter from last fall’s crop, but I’m sharing it now, since you may have fresh root vegetables that you are harvesting. I made a large batch, but you can scale it down to family size quite easily. Feel free to add or subtract root veggies using what you have on hand, it tastes just as good no matter the mix of veggies. Ingredients : 6 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 huge, sweet potato or 3 smaller ones, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch lengths 3 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 onion, peeled and cut into small pieces ¾ cup olive oil ¾ cup sugar 3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 teaspoons dried sage. If you have fresh sage, use 1 Tablespoon of leaves 4 oz. goat cheese 1 ½ 9-inch pie dough rounds. Roll together into one piece large enough to cover your casserole dish. Preparation: Preheat oven to 400. Put the cut-up veggies in a large zip lock bag, pour in the olive oil and seal bag. Rotate bag until all veggies are coated with oil. Dump out onto one or two rimmed baking sheets, single layer, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put in the oven to roast until golden around the edges and tender, 30-35 min. Let cool. While the veggies are roasting, make the glaze: Cook sugar in 6 tablespoons for water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling pan occasionally, until mixture is slightly amber colored, 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat and add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, swirling pan to combine. Quickly pour the glaze into the casserole dish, tilt and rotate to evenly coat. Scatter the rosemary and sage over top. Put all the veggies into the casserole dish on top of the glaze. Wiggle them around and press them together gently. Crumble the goat cheese over the vegetables. Drape the rolled-out pie crust over the vegetables in the casserole dish, tuck the edges of the crust down along the inside edge. You may need to use a butter knife to gently push the crust between the veggies and the edges of the dish. Bake until crust looks dry, about 20 minutes, reduce the heat to 350 and bake until crust is golden brown, 15-20 minutes. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini Here is a delicious cocktail that my brother came up with on the same day I made the veggie tart. It was delicious and refreshing. 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 sprigs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil sprig (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Why Do Soil Testing? Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Read this article to learn why you should do a soil test in your garden and how to get it done. Hint: It’s easy! Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Whether you’re starting a new garden, converting a yard space from one use, such as lawn, to another like a vegetable garden, or just continuing to use an area for the same purpose, a soil test can provide you with information that will promote success. It is recommended you test your soil when changing the use of the area and every three to five years for all other areas. Soil testing is available through the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory. The basic soil test will provide information on the soil texture, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime levels in your soil. With that information, you will know the specific composition of fertilizer that will benefit your garden. It will also provide you with information that will help you determine the types of plants that will do best in your garden. Soil testing is easy! You will fill out a form that asks what the area will be used for and the results will then provide recommendations specific to that use. A soil sample of two to three cups of soil can be mailed or brought to the Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota. The sample should be collected by walking in a zig zag pattern through the space and placed in a clean tub or plastic bag. Separate samples should be submitted for separate areas of your yard. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden for specific instructions and to obtain the sample request sheet. The cost for a basic test performed at the University of Minnesota is $20. Happy soil makes for happy plants. Your key to happiness may be a soil test! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Raspberry Delights Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Yes, it’s December and there probably isn’t anything growing in your garden right now, since you live in Minnesota. But not that long ago you may have had a bumper crop of berries that are now in your freezer. Here’s a fresh idea for strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, and raspberries. I love raspberries. After all what’s not to like? (Don’t answer that. They do have thorns, but I can overlook one minor flaw). They are sweet and sour all at once, have a fresh fruity fragrance and come in a variety of colors and flavors. And most important, they have seeds that stick in your teeth, which gives you a really good excuse to chew on a toothpick – something my mother never let me do. She said I was going to trip and fall, and it would go through the roof of my mouth (which has never happened). I grow a variety of raspberries. Most of my plants bear red berries that all get ripe within a 3 to 4 week period in the middle of July. I also have a few black raspberries, which are so little and sweet, it’s an absolute delight to eat them fresh off the bush. My golden raspberries are deer magnets, so last spring I moved them all into the end of my fenced-in vegetable garden where the deer and rabbits can’t eat them. They ripen all season long. Note - they do not work well for the recipe below because their golden color turns to brown when heated. Last July, my brother and his family were visiting from Oregon. I was watching the kids for the day while mom and dad had a break. The raspberry bushes were loaded with raspberries ready for picking, so I marched the kids down to the patch to pick with the promise that we were going to make raspberry treats, IF we could pick enough berries. With this motivation, they grabbed buckets and followed me down. They were so excited to see all of the berries and eagerly started picking. Suddenly, “Auntie, what’s this?” and “Oh yuck”, then, “Auntie, there are bugs everywhere!” The bushes were covered with Japanese beetles. They were devouring the raspberry leaves and even some of the berries. I said, “This is war, show no mercy!” They looked askance at me. “Don’t let the invaders destroy my berry patch!” I commanded. “Can we just flick them off?” my niece asked. “No, that doesn’t do any good they will just come right back.” Then I told them to do what I usually do, “You have to pinch their heads until you hear a satisfying crack.” I nearly caused a stampede back to the house with those instructions. So, I quickly changed to a softer approach, “here’s a bucket with soapy water in it, brush them into them into it or shake the branch over the bucket.” That was something they could do. We divided our team into 2 bug brushers and 3 berry pickers. In no time at all we had a couple of buckets full of berries, plenty for Raspberry Tarts (see that recipe in the Master Gardener Cookbook, for sale on our website) and Raspberry Stars . We gently washed the berries and then mixed 2 cups of them with 2 Tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons corn starch dissolved in ¼ cup of water . The rest of the berries were divided between some for freezing and some for eating fresh. Then we made the Raspberry Stars. They are best eaten when still warm out of the oven. They don’t keep, so we took one for the team and ate all 18 of them with tea! They also make a beautiful Christmas morning pastry because of their color and shape. A light dusting of powdered sugar gives a snowy touch. I am hoping you have some raspberries in your freezer that you can use for the Raspberry Stars, but if you don’t, store bought Raspberry Jam works too. Raspberry Stars 1 Puff Pastry Sheet (each sheet will yield 9 pastries) 4 Tablespoons Filling (see above for recipe) OR Raspberry Jam 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon water Powdered Sugar for dusting Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay frozen puff pastry on clean work surface and allow to thaw 10 minutes or more. Do not unfold until thawed. Unfold and cut it into 9 equal squares. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the water, set aside. With a sharp knife tip, score L-shaped cuts at the corners of each pastry square. You may need to use a kitchen shears to cut the L-shapes after using the knife. Place 1 teaspoon filling onto the center of each square. Take the outer corner of each puff pastry and fold over into the middle. Dip you finger in the egg water and use it to ‘glue’ each tip into the center. Do this with all four corners, shaping folds into a bow. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges of the pastries with the egg water. Bake for 13-14 minutes or until they puff up and the edges are golden. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Dust with Powdered sugar and serve. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Fall Lawn Care Margie Blare, Master Gardener Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Renovation Fall can be a great time to renovate your lawn. Seeding is easier because the seedlings won’t experience as much heat stress. Avoid adding additional nitrogen as it will over-stimulate the existing grass, thereby crowding out the new seedlings. Fine fescues will use less water, and tall fescues have longer roots. Figuring out why your lawn isn’t doing well before renovating it, will save you time and money. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability for more information. If you are laying down sod it, too, benefits from cooler temperatures in the fall and will require less water. Fertilization When temperatures are between 50 and 75 degrees your grass starts storing nutrients in its roots, to be used next spring, so late August through mid October is the optimal time to fertilize. Applying fertilizer in the spring leads to fast growth that suffers in the summer heat. Applying it after the ground is frozen creates run-off pollution and wastes your money. You should start with a soil test (go to: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ or e-mail soiltest@umn.edu ) before applying fertilizer. Weed Control Fall can also be a great time to kill those perennial broad-leaf weeds. They, too, are storing nutrients in their roots, so taking care of them in the fall eliminates them next spring. If using an herbicide (or fertilizer), always read ALL the instructions and follow recommendations for application rates, weather conditions and personal protection. Spot-treating may be the most economical and safest way to apply broad-leaf weed control products. Herbicide/fertilizer combination products can compromise both the fertilizer and the weed control effectiveness due to the ‘water-in’ vs. ‘leave-on-the-leaf” instructions. Crabgrass sprouts earlier in the year, so don’t use a crabgrass pre-emergent product in the fall. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar for more information. Mowing Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, sometime in October. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and remove no more than the top 1/3 of grass length in any one mowing. During warm weather 3-4” long grass keeps the ground moister. But if you leave it long over the winter it becomes a vole paradise! Leaving (small) grass clippings on your lawn returns their nitrogen to the lawn and mulching blades help keep the clippings small. Bee Lawns Bee populations have been declining in part due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Having flowering plants in a lawn will help bees, and you also increase your lawn’s resilience; it will have healthier soil and need less watering, mowing, and fertilizer. White clover, Creeping thyme, Self heal, and Ground plum are low-growing flowers that tolerate mowing down to 3 inches. Turf areas that have little foot traffic or that are primarily aesthetic are great locations. Examples are: steep slopes, right of ways or easements. Do not use broad-leaf weed control on Bee Lawns: it will kill all the flowers that the bees need. Spot treat very carefully. Go to: https://bluethumb.org/turf-alternatives/pollinator-lawn/ for more information. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Lop & Lose Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners While March is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs in your garden; note that it is NOT the time to prune those that bloom in the spring. Pruning your spring blooming trees and shrubs may kill blooms that are forming. These plants should be pruned right after they bloom in the spring. Read this article for valuable information about pruning some of your most beautiful spring blooming shrubs. Blossoms that is. Patience pays for those spring blooming shrubs and small trees gracing your landscape. While March is the perfect time to prune almost everything else it is several months early for those spring flowering ones. Ideally, the plants listed below are best shaped RIGHT AFTER blooming, before next year’s flower buds are set. Even waiting a month or two after flowering to trim these plants can mean losing next year’s blooms. LILACS Lilacs benefit by pruning AFTER blooming. Lilacs can be pruned very severely for renovation with the understanding that it may take several seasons of growth for a good flower show. Since lilacs live so long they often grow out of their appropriate space in the landscape with dead and unsightly sections. Often shade has been created over them over the years which makes them spindly and the flowers sparse. Pruning helps here but lilacs and shade are not a good mix. Unfortunately, lilacs will regrow from roots so removing them means repeat pruning of the new growth or digging out the roots. FORSYTHIA The bright yellow flowers of forsythia are so welcome in early spring that patience here will definitely be rewarded. This plant tends to be rather rangy in habit and benefits from regular trimming to keep it attractive in all seasons. AZALEA & RHODODENDRON While most specimens really don’t need pruning because they tend to keep a dense, organized structure, some might need restraining, balancing or thinning in the inner areas for more light and air. In northern climates, azaleas tend to create larger, more dense and flower covered specimens if they are planted with more sun rather than more shade as in the south. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas are of two major categories: flowering on new wood and flowering on old, or last year’s wood. The key to pruning is to know which you have. Ones that flower on new wood can be pruned very aggressively and still produce a summer crop of vegetation and flowers. Ones that flower on last year’s wood should NOT be pruned early but do look better if old blossoms are snipped or snapped off early in the growing season. New flowers will be produced of course but the dead ones will sully the look. MAGNOLIAS Fortunately, Magnolia flower buds are very obvious. They practically scream: “don’t cut me!” Magnolias in a sunny location don’t need much pruning generally but they often do need removal of suckers around the trunk. Mock Orange, Virburnum, Chokeberry, Serviceberry, Ninebark, Weigela, Spirea and Fothergilla are other spring bloomers which, if they need any pruning which most do not, should be pruned after flowering. Photo Credit: Gurneys (1), Michigan Bulb Co. (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3,5) & Julie Harris (4)

< Back Protecting Bulbs for Winter Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Jessica Nguyen, Master Gardener Tubers, rhizomes, corms, and true bulbs are commonly referred to using the overarching colloquialism “bulbs.” Bulbs are underground storage structures that carry both the genetic material for a plant for propagation and a food supply to kickstart plant growth. Some examples of bulbs you might have in your garden are daylilies and cyclamen; irises; gladiolus flowers, crocuses, and freesias; daffodils and tulips. Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Know your plant: There are generally two routes for winterizing bulbs, depending on whether the bulb is hardy or tender. Hardy bulbs require the cold winter temperatures to kickstart biochemical processes necessary for their next bloom cycle. They generally bloom in early spring to early summer (think crocuses or daffodils. Crocuses are some of the earliest-blooming flowers that have a bulb structure underground (it’s actually a corm!) Tender bulbs can’t survive the cold temperatures and are planted in the spring to bloom during the summer months (e.g. dahlias, elephant ears, begonias, amaryllis.) Amaryllis hippeastrum Candy Floss In-ground hardy bulb overwintering: for that pleasant spring surprise! Hardy bulbs need the winter chill to flower in the spring, and should be planted in the fall in order to get that necessary cold cycle. Plant your bulbs according to the specific recommended planting depth and spacing for the plant, mark where you’ve planted your bulbs so you don’t forget about them, then watch and wait. Many hardy bulbs are perennials that you may have planted in previous seasons! For hardy bulbs that are already in the ground, trim away foliage in the fall after it has had plenty of time to die back naturally, clear away debris from the previous bloom season, cover the bulbs back up, and leave them be! Planting Crocus Bulbs You should water hardy bulbs up until the first frost, even if the foliage has died down. The wet soil helps to ensure the bulbs don’t dry out or wither before they are able to freeze for the winter. Hardy bulbs can survive the winter chill because even though the air temperature in Minnesota winters can reach incredibly low temperatures and can fluctuate wildly, soil temperatures can stay much more consistent at just below freezing. At these temperatures, moisture in hardy bulbs freezes without damaging the cells of the plant. It is important, therefore, to plant your bulbs at the appropriate depth, to make sure that they are under enough soil to appropriately buffer against the winter cold. See this article by Dominic Christensen on soil temperatures during winter and the buffering effects of snow. Sometimes, bulbs will emerge prematurely due to random periods of warmer weather in late winter, damaging tender growth of the bulb when the temperatures eventually dip back below freezing. For areas that are subject to freeze-thaw cycles (think, that weird February-March time when it is 70℉ one week and -30℉ the next) covering the soil with a 6-inch layer of mulch or straw will protect the bulbs from moisture and temperature fluctuations. Container gardens are more susceptible to freeze-thaw complications, so a protective layer is a must. Critter considerations for bulbs left in the ground: No matter how busy we gardeners are as we prepare our gardens for the winter months, critters are even busier foraging for food to bulk up before the snow falls. There are a couple of ways to keep animals from nibbling on bulbs in autumn, such as: ● Using physical barriers such as row covers, wire mesh, or cages around your bulbs to prevent animals from accessing them. For gardens susceptible to animal attacks from underground, lining the interior of your planting area with a barrier of wire mesh before burying bulbs, may offer protection. Just make sure that the material that you use has openings large enough such that root production of the bulbs is not hindered, while still small enough to block underground wildlife. ● Utilizing planting practices such as mixing in crushed stones into the dirt when you plant your bulbs to deter digging and chewing. ● Hiding evidence of bulbs by clearing away debris from dead foliage; or, by covering newly planted bulbs with a groundcover plant or a layer of mulch. ● Planting only bulbs that are unappetizing to critters, or mixing in your desired bulbs with bulbs that are unappetizing. Some examples of bulbs that animals tend to avoid are daffodils[1] , alliums[2] , hyacinths[3] , grape [4] hyacinths (Muscari varieties,) squills[5] , and snowdrops[6] . TLC for tender bulbs: Many varieties of bulb plants cannot survive our severe Minnesota winters. Some examples of tender bulbs include canna lilies, calla lilies, and caladiums. Dig these bulbs up in the late fall before the first frost, but after the greenery has died off naturally (important for allowing the bulb to gather energy for its next blooms!) They should be stored indoors in a cool, dry place. For these bulbs, avoid freezing temperatures, which can damage the cells of the bulb. It is important to also avoid excess moisture, which can cause mold and rot, while allowing the bulbs to stay plump and retain enough water to survive the duration of storage. Dig up your bulbs and spray or brush off soil that clings to the bulbs. This is important: dry or cure your bulbs for three to seven days at room temperature in an area with plenty of airflow to remove excess moisture before storage. When you touch the cut end of the stem coming out of the bulb, it should feel dry. Otherwise, continue to cure the bulbs. Optional: dust with an antifungal. Store only large, healthy bulbs, as damaged bulbs may not survive storage or may invite rot, and smaller bulbs may dry up before spring. Store bulbs in a container that allows plenty of airflow, such as a wicker basket, or a mesh bag. Bulbs should be stored at an average of 40 degrees without freezing, such as in a cold corner of a basement, a warm fridge, or a temperature-controlled garage. Check on your bulbs periodically (at least once a month) to remove any rotting or molded bulbs, as one bad bulb can spoil the whole batch! https://www.pexels.com/photo/yellow-daffodil-flower-on-brown-soil-8259616/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Allium_aflatunense_%27Purple%27_5_2021_ornamental_onion-_%2851187451616%29.jpg https://pxhere.com/en/photo/995895 https://www.pxfuel.com/en/free-photo-xizda https://www.flickr.com/photos/pavdw/17160679352/in/photostream/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Common_Snowdrops_%28Galanthus_nivalis%29_%2825742401103%29.jpg Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), Creative Commons Crocus , Anatomy (2), en.wikipedia.org , all creative commons (3), www.wilsonbrosonline.com , all creative commons (4)

< Back Glorious Amaryllis Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with large, stunning blooms that can be grown as a houseplant year-round. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with blooms averaging 4 to 10 inches and can even be grown as a houseplant year around. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. My summer flowers are faded with the first frosts of fall, and the spring bulbs are planted and resting before their show in a few months. It’s about this time of year that I start to really think about Amaryllis. Amaryllis bulbs and blooms start appearing more frequently in stores with their holiday shades of red, pink, white and more - ready to keep us flower gardeners happy with blooms inside while the cold Minnesota weather settles in. Amaryllis are native to warmer climates. The bulbs we generally see for purchase as houseplants in our part of the world are hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum , and are native to Central and South America. Let’s talk about how to grow these beauties here in Minnesota. Growing Amaryllis Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers - about 1 inch diameter wider than the largest part of the bulb, and twice as tall. Soil should be able to drain freely from container - Amaryllis do not like to sit in water and can rot if left too wet. One third to one half of the bulb should still be visible above the soil, and the bulb should sit up over the edge of the container. Water thoroughly after planting and allow the water to drain. Then water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch. Place the pot on a saucer in a sunny window until flower buds begin to open, then move the plant out of direct sunlight. Keep Your Amaryllis Plant Healthy and Flowering for Years Amaryllis can be grown actively all year, and, with some care, will continue to rebloom. Once the flowers are finished blooming, snip them off so the plant doesn’t put energy into creating seed pods. Let the green foliage continue to have sunlight so the bulb can store energy through photosynthesis. Unlike some bulbs, Amaryllis does not require a dormant period in order to bloom and rebloom. However, you can try to time blooms by allowing the plant to go dormant in a cool, dry, dark location for 8 to12 weeks without water or feeding. Then bring the plant out into a sunny place and resume normal watering and fertilizing with a high phosphorus content (about half the strength the package recommendation) and expect blooms in 4 to 6 weeks. Potted Amaryllis can also be taken outside in Minnesota during warmer months. They will need to gradually spend time outside to acclimate to the outdoors, and then find a location with at least six hours of sun. Just set the pot out in a sunny spot, or stick the whole pot into the ground in the garden. Amaryllis will not survive frost or freezing temperatures, so they will need to be brought back inside before cold temperatures arrive. It is not necessary to repot Amaryllis plants from season to season. In fact, they prefer to be somewhat potbound for the best blooms. The best time to repot Amaryllis plants is after they’ve gone through a dormant period, and then they will likely only need to be repotted with fresh sterile soil about every 3-4 years. For more information on Amaryllis, and many more houseplants, check out the University of Minnesota - Extension website . Happy Growing! Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (5, 6)

< Back 2 Easy Ways to Savor Spring Produce Joy Johnson, Master Gardener If you subscribe to the notion and practice of seasonal eating, as I do, then you already know: nothing in the world tastes as good as freshly picked asparagus. There is no replicating the bold bite of a turnip just plucked from the dirt. Spring is a wonderful time to eat, and its abundant leaves, stalks, bulbs and shoots in peak season and at their most flavorful require very little fussing in the kitchen. It’s early spring and you may have some early spring veggies coming up in your garden; or, like me, you may still be in the “hopeful” stage. If you are blessed to have an asparagus patch or if you froze some turnips or have some in cold storage, it’s time to enjoy them! If you don’t have either of these on hand, they are readily available this time of year in your local grocery store, probably at a reasonable price because they are in season. These recipes, if you can even call them that, are very simple and quick. I hope you enjoy the fresh new flavors as much as I did when prepping for this article. Hakurei Turnips Make a salty-sweet glaze: Trim and cut turnips to bit size, then boil in salted water until just tender, 5 minutes. Drain and return to pot along with a couple tablespoons each honey and butter, and 1 tablespoon each of miso and vinegar. I used one pack of red miso soup mixed with 1 tablespoon water. Cook until the glaze thickens enough to coat the turnips. Season with salt and pepper. Asparagus Blanch trimmed asparagus in salted simmering water until just tender, about 6 minutes. Toss with a grainy mustard vinagrette (i.e. mix 1 tablespoon brown mustard into 1/3 cup of whatever bottled vinagrette dressing you have on hand). Force a peeled hard boiled egg through a sieve or potato ricer to garnish. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Disruption to Delight: Partnering with the City to Start a Bee Lawn Pat Peschman, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you interested in doing more to help our native pollinators? If so, consider turn all or part of your lawn into a bee lawn. A bee lawn can provide a recreational space for you and it can also provide much-needed food resources for bees and other beneficial pollinators. This article describes Master Gardener Pat Peschman’s experience with developing a bee lawn in her yard and includes some excellent advice. In 2024, my husband John and I received a dreaded letter announcing summer-long infrastructure and road maintenance that would impact our property. Initially, we only recognized the losses—our boulevard native garden had to move, our driveway would be torn up, and trees would be removed. However, my husband recognized an opportunity. We had discussed converting part of our lawn to a "bee lawn," to create habitat for pollinators. John developed a relationship with the project manager for the construction, and through this partnership, our new bee lawn became a reality. Benefits of a Bee Lawn A bee lawn is a combination of turf grass and flowering plants. It is low-growing, allowing it to replace a traditional lawn while maintaining a manicured appearance and tolerating some foot traffic. Bee lawns offer several advantages over turf lawns including: Pollinator Support: Flowering plants provide nectar and pollen throughout the growing season. Low Input: Requires less water, fertilizer, and herbicides. Low Maintenance: Requires less mowing. (My husband only mowed our bee lawn twice the first year!) While bee lawns should not be our only approach to feeding pollinators, they can be a piece of the puzzle. 1. Location and Site Prep Select a site with well-drained soil that receives full to part sun (at least 3-6 hours of direct sun per day). Avoid heavily trafficked areas to prevent soil compaction. The site will need to be prepared to receive and support the seed. The "Construction" Method: We had a unique advantage because the city tore up the lower third of our lawn. Instead of resodding, they collaborated with us to create spaces for the bee lawn, bringing in clean black dirt and even watering the area. The DIY Method: If you do not have construction assistance: Ideally, remove the lawn with a sod cutter or rototiller. If weed pressure is high, solarize the area by applying clear plastic for several weeks. At a minimum, cut existing lawn very short and rake heavily to expose the soil. layout of bee lawn 2. The Seed Mix Bee lawn seed is a combination of cool-season turf grass, particularly fine fescues, and flower seeds. Kentucky bluegrass will work as well but requires more input. Recommended flower species include: Dutch White Clover Self-heal Creeping Thyme Note: These mixes are commercially available at many garden centers or through companies that support or install bee lawns. Self-Heal and White Clover 3. Seeding Timeline Late Fall (Ideal): Also known as "dormant seeding" (early Nov to mid-Dec). Spread seed evenly over prepared soil, a seed spreader works well. Winter weather works the seed into the ground, and minimal watering is required. Spring: Wait until mid-May (after frost danger). Lightly rake the seed into the soil. This requires frequent watering (lightly, 2-3 times per day) until germination. In both seasons, apply a light straw cover so birds do not eat your seed. 4. Maintenance and Care Watering: Once established, only water during prolonged drought. Fertilizing: Dutch white clover fixes nitrogen in the soil, so fertilization is rarely needed. Mowing: Wait until the lawn is 5–6 inches high, avoid mowing when the lawn is flowering. Only remove the top one-third of the plants. Leave the clippings on the lawn. Mow in late fall to prep the lawn for winter. Weeding: some hand weeding may be required the first season bee lawn flowers and ruler measuring height A Buzzing Success Since establishing our bee lawn, countless individuals walking past our property have stopped to inquire about the lawn and offer compliments. We have definitely seen our lawn abuzz with pollinators. This year’s goal is to try to count and identify our visitors! References: Planting and Maintaining a Bee Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn#preparing-to-plant-2941611 Consider a Flowering Bee Lawn to Help Pollinators: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/consider-a-flowering-bee-lawn-to-help-pollinators What is a Bee Lawn: https://northerngardener.org/bee-lawn/ Photo Credits: Pat Peschman (1,3) University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back What to Do With a Round Zucchini? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Have you ever been gifted with a vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? Read this entertaining article to find out what Master Gardener Joy Johnson made with the large, round zucchini she received from a family member. Her clever recipe will inspire you! My brother-in-law stopped by for a visit on Monday. He handed me a round zucchini when he walked in the door with a big grin on his face. I didn’t know what it was at first. It was the size of a cantaloupe, dark green with dark orange stripes. I didn’t believe him when he said it was a zucchini. Have you ever been gifted with an interesting vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? I gave my neighbor a kohlrabi last summer and she had the same look on her face that I gave my brother-in-law when I handed it to her. I love to share my garden produce and I also enjoy trying new foods and veggies. I watched the large round zucchini for a couple of days as it sat on my counter staring back at me. It seemed friendly enough. I was scheduled to make dinner at my dad’s apartment on Thursday evening. I needed to come up with something I could make at his place that wouldn’t take too long, use too many dishes and utensils but would be healthy and tasty. I grabbed the zucchini, a half-used package of Cotija cheese (that was left from when I made Chile Rellenos), a handful of dried parsley. I stopped at the grocery store and bought a package of Uncle Ben’s Ready Rice (Red Beans & Rice flavor). That is something I’ve never used before. I usually make rice from scratch, but that takes time, and I knew I’d need something with a lot of flavors because zucchini is so mild. I also had a couple of slices of leftover ham. Now I just needed some side dishes to serve with the zucchini. I quickly made a lettuce salad and grabbed some leftover butternut squash. So, this was going to be a summer and winter squash supper! Here's my improvised recipe for the large round zucchini. Ingredients: 1 large round zucchini 1 pack Uncle Bens Ready Rice, Red Beans & Rice flavor 1 handful of dried parsley 2 thick pieces of ham, diced ½ cup Cotija cheese, crumbled Process: Slice the top off the zucchini as if you are going to carve it like a Jack-o’-lantern. Scoop out the seeds and stringy middle flesh and discard. Scoop out a little more flesh so you have about a 2-cup hollow. Cover the zucchini with its lid. Cook it in the microwave or oven until it just starts to get tender. It took mine 20 minutes in the oven, then 5 minutes in the microwave. If you bake it in the oven, put it in a pie plate and add water to the pie plate before putting it in to bake at 350 degrees. Dice the extra zucchini flesh that you scooped out. Cook the rice according to package directions, add the diced zucchini, the handful of dried parsley and the chopped ham. You may need to add 1/3 cup water or broth. You don’t want it soupy, but you need to cook the ham and the diced zucchini. Remove the large round zucchini from the oven or microwave. Scoop the cooked rice mixture into the zucchini, stir in the crumbled cheese, put the lid on it and heat it through in the microwave for about 3-5 minutes. Eat and enjoy! Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2)