< Back Entangled Life “Fungi provide the key to understanding the planet on which we live and the ways we think, feel and behave. Yet they live their lives largely hidden from view and over ninety percent of their species remain undocumented.” So explains Merlin Sheldrake in his fascinating book “Entangled Life.” Read this book review to discover more about the role of fungi in our lives. Reviewed by Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Merlin Sheldrake's book Entangled Life will fascinate you with the many hundreds of ways, (good and bad) in which fungi affect our planet; from billion-dollar world-wide crop damage, to helping fight Colony Collapse Disorder in bees and even helping it rain! Without fungi, we wouldn't have antibiotics, beer, wine or some kinds of bread or that black gold called compost. Plants have formed a symbiotic relation with fungi, which helps the plants take in phosphorous and nitrogen. Fungi can be found not just around the roots but also between the cells of some plants. Did you know that slime molds can “run” mazes”? There are even fungi that “hunt” and digest nematodes. Sheldrake takes us on his journey of discovery while researching fungi. You'll read about exotic locals, exhausting field work, and his experience of participating in an LSD study on whether or not a scientist's mind can solve problems that formerly stumped them while on LSD. Sheldrake doesn't hesitate to speculate on the possibly world-view changing implications of his field of research. You will take away a humbling understanding of our world and its interconnections. Photo Credit: Merlin Sheldrake "Entangled Life" book jacket

< Back Planning Your Garden for Next Year Begins Now! The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? Read this article for a reminder of some gardening fundamentals that may help you attain gardening success next year. Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? The Master Gardeners in Dakota County grow gardens that trial vegetable and flower varieties for the UMN Extension. Much of the produce from these gardens is delivered to local food shelves so success is important. These gardeners also review garden wins and disappointments as they consider future practices. In early fall I chatted with Master Gardeners at one of the seed trial and community gardens about their gardening practices. Of course, every year is different. While drought was an issue last year, this year the impacts of a very wet year were top of mind. Even so, the team kept returning to fundamental practices. This article will encourage you to look at your garden through the lens of these practices. And I’ll share some reflections from the seed trial garden. Fundamental Practices 1. Start with quality seeds and plants Locate reputable sources through research. Look at their growing practices and ask other gardeners for their favorite sources. Are your plants suitable for our northern climate? ( Hardiness zones 5a (in some places) and above ) Look for disease resistance or tolerance, especially if disease has been a problem. If purchasing plants locally, look for signs of insects and disease. “Reject any plant with dark, discolored or soft sunken spots on leaves, stems or roots.” UMN Extension 2. Maintain a healthy, living soil - Add organic materials to your soil in combination with soil testing. Know your soil. UMN extension recommends testing every 3-5 years. I am 100% convinced I need a soil test for my garden because the same plant that struggled in my garden produced beautiful red peppers in a new garden bed! You can obtain a soil test through the UMN soil testing lab for a small fee. The test will give you the estimated soil texture, pH (acidity), percent of soil organic matter and levels of phosphorus(P) and potassium(K). There are optimal levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus, and Potassium for plant growth. For example, too much nitrogen can stunt growth and, in some plants, may encourage leaf growth but delay fruiting. Finally, the soil test will recommend soil amendments and fertilizers that address any deficiencies that are found. Add organic matter as needed. A common practice is to add a couple inches of compost each year. Consider cover crops . Do frequent health checks - disease and pests can establish very quickly. Remove diseased material immediately and clean your tools. Only fully composted disease-free compost should be returned to the garden. Rotate Crops. Diseases are usually shared within a plant family. Did you know peppers and tomatoes and eggplant are in the same Solanaceae (nightshade) family? UMN extension references: Soil testing for lawns and gardens Compost and soil organic matter: “The more, the merrier?” Living soil, healthy garden 3. Maintain moist but not water-logged soil Moisture is tightly coupled with soil health. Saturated soil can lead to nitrogen loss and flooding can prevent the roots from taking up oxygen and other nutrients. Assess watering practices in the garden - Watering from above can cause disease to splash up from the soil and over saturate plant material. Soaker hoses are one option to minimize spread of diseases. Improve drainage as needed – One strategy to control water is raised beds. Forming raised beds ensures good drainage, which is more crucial for some plant families. An example of this is the Gourd family (Cucurbitaceae): cucumber, melon, summer and winter squash, pumpkin and gourd. Use mulch wisely. Mulch keeps soil moist longer and helps maintain healthy soil by limiting loss of nutrients from runoff. Use mulch that is both disease and chemical free (e.g. wet mulch may be diseased and avoid grass clippings from a treated lawn). UMN extension references: Watering the Vegetable Garden Raised Bed Gardens Fertilizing and Watering Container Plants 4. Maintain airflow between plants - Be generous with spacing. Provide appropriate structure to maximize airflow and keep produce off the ground. Take into consideration the weight of produce and the spacing increments; for example, a pole bean loves twining around a string, peas love some chicken wire and tomatoes need a good strong cage. Get these in place early and keep an eye out, as plants often need ‘training’. Prune as needed. An indeterminate tomato plant, for example, will keep growing. Prune plants if crowding impacts airflow and sunlight. UMN extension references: Trellises and Cages to support garden vegetables Preventing Plant Diseases in the Garden 5. Invite pollinators in Combining vegetables and flowers in one area is becoming more common. Mixing not only helps with plant pollination but provides more color and variety, keeping the garden beautiful and supporting beneficial insects. See article “ Companion Gardens are the Best ” And finally, what reflections on the year did the seed trial and community garden gardeners come up with? In general, it was a very wet year and overall production was lower than previous years. Beans struggled early but rebounded in late summer as the sun returned and the soil was no longer saturated. Despite valiant efforts to manage squash beetles and limit impact of mildew and other disease, squash and cucumber plants eventually succumbed. Tomato and pepper plants started slow but were very productive in the long run despite some tomato blight. A mulch of loose, not too dense straw was a good choice and plants were spaced for sufficient airflow. Cocoa mulch smelled delicious but became wet, compressed and slick from the rain. Flowers and pollinators were abundant and admired. At the end of September, the team is still delivering quality produce to the food shelf: And that is success! I hope in this recap of gardening fundamentals you will find a couple of helpful strategies to try next gardening season. Each year is a bit of an adventure - expect the unexpected, learn and be willing to adapt. Happy gardening! If you need assistance beyond the articles provided, try these resources: Contacts for yard and garden: Ask a Master Gardener Diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases and nonliving factors: What’s wrong with my plant? Photo Credits: Alyce Neperud (1,3-8), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme Stacy Reeves reviews Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme, a book that describes the many ways to enjoy a variety of herbs. The book talks about seventy herbs both common and uncommon. It includes history, growing tips and recipes to help you enjoy herbs that you can grow in your own garden. Stacy Reeves, Master Gardener Theresa Mieseler’s book, Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme, is aptly named. After many gardeners’ first plants of the season, their next thoughts often move to next season, next harvest, and how to go beyond. My personal beyond has always been something edible in my garden, but Mieseler highlights the many uses of herbs, such as for flavor, garnishes, spiritual and cultural rituals, medicines, and aromas. Though the author is Minnesotan she details herbs from all over the world and includes an outline of growth habits, favorite uses, and even offers some recipes. The pictures included in the book are beautiful and aid the author’s explanations of the varieties. Walking through a seed catalog can be delightful. However, Mieseler's inclusion of her farm, grandfather, and even the weather as characters made the book more interesting to read. She recounts the herbaceous varieties she’s loved over the years and why she would recommend them. Readers are sure to learn new things about both familiar and unfamiliar herbs. Photo Credit: Theresa Mieseler (1)

< Back Why Weigela? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Weigelas are beautiful, deer-resistant, flowering shrubs. There are many lovely varieties to choose. Learn why you should consider this shrub for your garden. Wine and Roses Weigelas (wy-GEE-la) are a hardy shrub that can vary in size from 1.5 feet to 12 feet high, depending on the cultivar. Funnel-form or bell-shaped blossoms can be white, yellow, pale pink, deep-red or maroon. Some varieties bloom only in the spring, some follow-up with a steady supply the rest of the year, some will re-bloom later. Leaves can be dark or light green, variegated or 'purple/bronze'. Weigela is hardy in zones 4 – 8 and does best in full sun to dappled shade. They are tolerant of most soil conditions, even clay, but they don't do well in soggy conditions. For planting instructions see: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/planting-shrubs-correctly/ This link has a very good explanation of how to plant container-grown shrubs, but also has a great explanation of why they recommend these procedures. They also tell you how to “root-wash” (my favorite method) container plants, and why this method is recommended. In this age of invasive species, this can be one way to avoid jumping worms. Make sure to dispose of the discarded soil. Be aware that this link is from South Carolina, so, the advice to get a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) is valid, but Dakota County soils are not generally acidic, we do not rarely need to amend the soil with lime. Red Prince Rubidor Fertilize Weigela in the spring just before new growth appears. It may not be necessary to prune at all, (except for winter die-back and any crossed, rubbing, branches), if you've chosen the right cultivar for the available space. Pay special attention to mature plant size and USDA zones when you buy. Some growers “push” the limits of the zones and sizes for the cultivar. Check several different catalogs to see what zones and sizes they list. Weigelas bloom on “old” wood. That means that next year's flowers will be produced on wood that grew this year. Prune immediately after flowering, if you wait longer, you will remove next year's flowers. Some varieties send up a “horn” that you may want to prune, also. In a dry spring, direct sun can burn the leaves of yellow-leafed varieties. Prune burned growth after new growth has come in. There are two more intensive kinds of pruning that you may want to consider at some point. The first is re-rejuvenation. This would be your choice if the shrub is looking worn-out, overgrown or raggedy. Simply put, you cut all the stems back to about 6”. It will take time to recover and fill in the space, but will have good results. The other is renewal pruning. Each year prune out about 1/3rd of the oldest stems. Both of these techniques will result in renewed vigor and blooming in the future. These methods will work on many other shrubs as well. Polka Weigelas are a pollinator-friendly, deer-resistant, drought-resistant, reliable addition to your home landscape! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Missouri Gourd (Cucurbita foetidissima): Beautiful but Tough Missouri gourd – a gourd of many names is an interesting and unusual vine. As this article explains, Missouri gourd has many advantages as a ground cover or climbing vine. As an added bonus, the vine produces a beautiful flower and edible fruit. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As best one can tell, Missouri gourd probably started out as native to the Flint Hills and Osage Plains of Kansas, naturalizing both southwestward, eastward and northward into Iowa, Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio and southern Minnesota. It’s also known as calabazilla, chilicote, coyote gourd, fetid gourd, wild gourd, wild pumpkin and buffalo gourd. Indeed, it has the toughness of bison. Although most widespread in the Southwest of the US and northern Mexico it will grow in most any climate boasting seven to nine months of warm weather. A member of the cucumber family, this guy is remarkably tolerant of dry, poor soil. Thus, it becomes an ideal ground cover for those areas of the property where not much of anything will grow. It will sprawl or climb a fence or trellis with vigor. It also is quite handy on banks susceptible to erosion. Once established, the vine will produce large showy orange to yellow flowers in summer, reminiscent of squash blossoms. As you might guess from its relatives, Missouri gourd will produce small gourd like fruit, looking like mini watermelons. They can be quite decorative in the fall. Photo Credit: Wikipedia Missouri gourd flower in summer The plant is edible, although you have to boil the fruit when it is very young. As it matures, it becomes quite bitter. The flowers are also bitter. You might give the seeds a try, although be sure to boil or roast them before you dig in. In addition to being a food source for Native Americans, the gourd is traditionally used to make musical instruments, particularly rattles. You might try drying out a gourd to make an interesting winter project! Photo Credit: Charles Clark, Wikipedia small melon-like fruit So, if you are looking for a reliable ground cover for difficult soil which will reward you with stunningly golden flowers and decorative fall melons, consider Missouri gourd. Photo Credits: Charles Clark, Wikipedia (1), Wikipedia (2)

< Back Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata): A Beautiful Bark and no Bite Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Shagbark Hickory is a striking tree, native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It can be a bit “goofy-looking” with is rough peeling bark. Yet it is a huge, long-lived, strong specimen that you might consider for your yard – or just appreciate it when you see it. This article tells you more about this special Minnesota native. We have a mature shagbark hickory just to the right of our garage. He greets me every time I come home. He’s a bit goofy looking, clothed in pealing bark, yet oddly beautiful as the light and shadows play on the trunk. Shagbark hickory is native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It is found in southeastern Minnesota, although it will do well throughout zone 4. Carya ovata is also called scaly bark hickory , Carolina hickory , upland hickory and shellbark hickory . These guys can get really big, up to 100 feet, and can live for 350 years. So, plan your planting placement carefully. As it has a long central taproot, it does not transplant easily - another problem for nursery growers. Bark of a mature Carya ovata As the name implies, mature shagbarks have shaggy bark. Young trees however, have a smooth bark. Be patient. It is a deciduous tree, starting to form nuts at about 10 years of age although large amounts aren’t seen until the tree hits age 40. Once it gets in gear, it will continue to produce for as long as 100 years. Unfortunately, it is an erratic producer with generous crops every 3 to 5 years. Thus, although the nuts are tasty, you’ll not see them in commercial production owing to the tree’s erratic crop yields. Shagbark hickory leaves Although you might not find hickory nuts at the store, when they do show up, they are a favorite of a number of species. Shagbark hickory feeds squirrels, mice, chipmunks and raccoons. Bears, foxes and a number of bird species including mallards, wood ducks, bobwhites and wild turkeys feed off shagbark nuts. It is the larval food for the Luna moth, walnut sphinx and also the royal walnut moth whose larval stage is called hickory horned devil. The wood is heavy and very strong and durable, great for woodworking if you’re the patient sort. Shagbark hickory nut Carya ovata prefers a humid climate with full sun. It is however shade tolerant although growth is slowed in such conditions. In general, it is a hardy tree with few pests and is tolerant of a wide range of temperature, although it does best in Zone 4 to 8. It is a slow grower so plan on any plantings as future shade trees. It’s worth the wait! Photo Credit: John B. Wikimedia Commons (1,2), www.forestryimages.org (3)

< Back Holiday Trees Tori Clark, Master Gardener Tis the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, here are some things to consider before selecting your tree and some tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, there are some things to consider before selecting your tree and tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. Most of the trees you will find at cut-your-own or pre-cut lots will be one of these four types: Fraser fir trees have bright green, flattened needles; ½ to 1 inch long. They have some of the best needle retention and a pleasant scent. Fraser firs have strong branches which angle upward making them a great choice for heavier ornaments. Fraser fir Balsam fir needles tend to be a little longer, about ¾" to 1 ½" . The long-lasting needles are flat and rounded at the tip. These firs have a dark green color and are very fragrant. Balsam fir Scotch pine has very stiff, dark green needles about one inch long. The needles will stay on the tree even when dry. Scotch pine White pines have soft, blue-green needles, 2 to 4 inches long, that will stay on throughout the holiday season. The trees have a full appearance and are best suited to smaller ornaments. White pines have little or no fragrance, but can have less allergic reactions compared to more fragrant trees. White pine Whether you are shopping at a pre-cut tree lot in town or cutting your own, make sure you have a good idea of the height and width the desired spot in your home can accommodate. Also check your tree for freshness. Trees are often cut weeks earlier, so make sure the needles are green and flexible and do not fall off when you run your hand over a branch. If you are not putting your tree up when you bring it home, keep it in a shaded unheated location. A fresh cut to the trunk of your holiday tree will help it last through all of your holiday celebrations so remove 1-2” of the trunk then place the tree in a stand with water. A good quality tree stand will hold one to two gallons of water. Keep it filled with water for a long-lasting tree that is fragrant and doesn’t drop too many needles. Be sure to keep your tree away from heat sources like vents and fireplaces to reduce drying. Look for resources in your community for recycling your tree after the holidays. Photo credits: www.forestryimages.org (1, 2), www.flickr.com (3, 4)

< Back The Label is the Law! Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or, at least, their looks. Your first inclination may be to turn to pesticides. But many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides and other potentially harmful chemical products. This article provides resources, tips and other valuable information that can be helpful in deciding how to handle your garden problems. This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or at least, their looks. Many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources, including this from the University of Minnesota Extension (UMN), that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides. The UMN recommends using the integrated pest management (IPM) methods for deciding the proper strategy for your yard. This diagram from the University of Massachusetts explains the IPM method. Pesticides Let’s talk a bit more about pesticides. Pesticide is an umbrella term, it covers insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, bactericides and rodenticides (Rodenticides can also kill animals that feed on the rodents). Pesticides can either kill on contact or after being absorbed into tissues (systemic). Many of the same precautions that are on pesticides are also on fertilizers. Check out the sites from the UMN and University of Massachusetts to learn more about chemical and non-chemical ways to control pests and diseases. Know what you are buying There are many different chemical products on the market, so it is vital to know what you are buying and how to use it. If you decide to use a chemical product, here are some tips and legalities. The label will list the species of plants, fungus, bacteria, rodents or insects it will control. Don’t expect it to kill creeping Charlie if that plant is not listed. Contact products such as insecticidal soaps, and horticultural oil (mineral oil) will only kill the insect if it directly contacts the insect. Systemic insecticides are applied to the plant, and any insect that feeds on the plant will die. There are fungicides and bactericides which protect the plant from diseases. For example, there are injections of a fungicide to protect elms from Dutch Elm Disease, and soil drenches or injections of insecticides to control Emerald Ash Borers. Each pesticide and fertilizer that you use is required to have a label to inform you: What P ersonal P rotective E quipment (PPE) you need to keep yourself safe. This can include but is not limited to; safety goggles, breathing masks, long sleeves and pants, footwear, chemical resistant gloves or even full-body coveralls with hood. The label will explain how to clean up yourself and your equipment after using it. Wash hands before and after going to the toilet. Wash any exposed clothing on the hottest wash cycle. It doesn’t hurt to run the washer through the ‘clean’ cycle afterwards. Proper storage and disposal practices Pay attention to precautionary statements Don’t spray during certain wind conditions and temperature ranges. If the temperature is above say, 80F, a sprayed pesticide can volatilize and drift onto non-targeted plants. If the wind is more than about 2-4 miles/hour, the pesticide can blow onto desirable plants. Don’t spray if rain is expected before the estimated drying time. If it runs off it will not affect the plant or insect, and can contaminate the water supply. Where NOT to apply it, (usually not near bodies of water, because it can be toxic to fish and invertebrates). And directions for use The rate of application. You must measure the area and do the math. How long before re-entry, or replanting. How to apply it, e.g. to the point of run-off, or otherwise. How often to apply it. Organic Pesticides and others Products that are labeled for use on organic produce aren’t always ‘safe’. If not used in accordance with the label they can kill your plants and may harm you and/or the environment. Please read the labels on organic pesticides carefully. The above photos are all from an organic pesticide. Homemade products don’t have labels to tell you how to use them safely. Happy and Safe Gardening this year! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,4,5), https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/integrated-pest-management/about (3)

< Back Common Milkweed (Asclepius syriaca): An Uncommon Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener If a plant has adapted to its environment such that it is easily grown, it often suffers the fate of being called “common”. That is a disservice to Asclepius syriaca or “common milkweed”, which is anything but “common”. Indeed, its value to pollinators is uncommonly great. It attracts hordes of butterflies and other pollinators. Read this article to learn more about this important staple in pollinator gardens. Along with closely related members of the family Asclepiadaceae, it is the sole host plant for the imperiled Monarch Butterfly. Asclepius syriaca is a source of food and a host for Monarch larvae and caterpillars. Its late spring to summer flowering presents popcorn balls of fragrant pink-purple blooms which grace any garden. If you’re looking for Asclepius syriaca, you should know that it is also known as silkweed, Virginia silkweed, common silkweed, showy milkweed, cotton weed, wild cotton and swallow-wort. Obviously, it gets around! common milkweed; Photo credit: USDA Common milkweed is native to most of the Eastern and Central North America and is found throughout Minnesota. Its origins in prairies and savannas dictate that it be grown in full sun to, at most, partial shade. Reflecting its prairie origins, it has a long taproot and thus is difficult to transplant. However, it grows easily from seed but can be aggressive in beds. If that is the case, it is easily pulled up and will not regrow from any root left behind. (Would that weeds were that obliging!) As you might imagine, Asclepius syriaca looks best in natural landscapes. In beds it will usually grow to about 3 feet. Without competition in good soil, it can reach 5 or 6 feet. In late spring, common milkweed produces 4-inch-wide balls of flowers, initially pink-purple. As the bloom ages the color gradually transmutes to an orange-pink. The fragrance is pleasant but distinctive. In late summer to fall, the plant will form chubby horn-like seed pods containing copious, fluffy seeds. They will open from early fall to November. If you wish to propagate plants, collect the seeds and give a go at germination. Remember to stratify them by putting them in the fridge in a moist environment for about a month to stimulate germination. I usually put the seeds in with a moist coffee filter in a Ziploc sandwich bag. Then, after a spell in the cold, start them indoors in January. You’ll have some great plants ready to go for spring planting, around May in central Minnesota. So, by all means add a bit of milkweed to your property. Perhaps a Monarch will stop by to say thanks! Seed pods at maturity; Photo credit: Cornell College of Agriculture

< Back From Our House to Yours: Winter Sowing Native Plants for You! Master Gardeners strive to be stewards of the environment. To that end, the Dakota County Master Gardener program seeks ways to support the efforts of community members to practice good gardening in their own yards. Planting native plants in your garden is one of those good gardening practices. To support that practice, the Master Gardeners’ Propagation Team grows native plants from local seeds that you can buy at our annual plant sale in May. In this article, learn how Master Gardeners collect, prepare and grow the native seeds. Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Master Gardeners using cleaning boards to clean native seeds Did you know that Dakota County Master Gardeners grow many of the native plants that we offer at our annual Plant Sale? At next year’s sale (on May 16, 2026, at the Western Service Center in Apple Valley from 8 until noon), you will find the 48 types of natives that our Propagation Team is growing this winter. There will also be shrubs, native grasses, and other plants that we obtain from local vendors. Our growing for the Plant Sale actually started in September and October, when we collected ripe native plant seeds from our own gardens. In November, we brought bags of dried seeds to the new Dakota County Parks’ greenhouse in Lebanon Hills Regional Park for cleaning. The Parks graciously allowed our approximately 15 volunteers to use their cleaning boards to crush seed capsules, scrub away the fuzz and chaff, and sieve the seeds. Master Gardeners sorting and cleaning seed It’s a time-consuming process, but important--removing the chaff means the seeds can get better soil contact at planting time. instrument to remove chaff from the seed; seeds in bottom cup are blown to the top of the tube where the lighter chaff is collected in side tubes. Seed sinks to bottom with less chaff Cleaned seeds that need no stratification were placed in envelopes, and are being kept in a cool, dark place until planting time in April. The rest of the seeds that required cold stratification (see Jessie Thompson’s article describing cold stratification in this January issue) for 10, 30, or 60 days went on to a second group of volunteers for winter sowing. Winter sowing is an easy process you can do yourself at home. All it takes is a plastic container that is at least two inches deep, damp potting soil to fill the container, seeds, water, a magic marker, and Mother Nature. Right after we cleaned the seeds in November, our volunteers punched holes in the tops and bottoms of containers that once held lettuce, strawberries, and grapes. Each container was filled with dampened potting soil. We planted the seeds at the proper planting depth. Finally, we labeled each container with the plant’s name and the date those seeds would complete the necessary cold stratification. Three Master Gardeners took all the containers home, watered them deeply, and set them alongside our homes. Mother Nature has taken it from there. The containers behind my garage were exposed to rain in the fall and are now covered with snow. Starting January 15, the first group of native plant seeds will complete cold stratification. More volunteers will take those containers, bring them inside their warm homes, and put them under grow lights. They will keep the seeds watered until they germinate. The little seedlings will keep growing in our homes until they go to the greenhouse for transplanting on April 1. From there, more Master Gardeners will tend to the seedlings and help them grow into healthy, mature plants suitable for our May Plant Sale. Look for more information about our Plant Sale this spring and consider bringing some of these native, home-grown plants for your yard. native Common Ironweed Photo Credits : MB Kufrin (1-3), www.flickr.com (4)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel