< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back Fall Lawn Care Margie Blare, Master Gardener Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Renovation Fall can be a great time to renovate your lawn. Seeding is easier because the seedlings won’t experience as much heat stress. Avoid adding additional nitrogen as it will over-stimulate the existing grass, thereby crowding out the new seedlings. Fine fescues will use less water, and tall fescues have longer roots. Figuring out why your lawn isn’t doing well before renovating it, will save you time and money. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability for more information. If you are laying down sod it, too, benefits from cooler temperatures in the fall and will require less water. Fertilization When temperatures are between 50 and 75 degrees your grass starts storing nutrients in its roots, to be used next spring, so late August through mid October is the optimal time to fertilize. Applying fertilizer in the spring leads to fast growth that suffers in the summer heat. Applying it after the ground is frozen creates run-off pollution and wastes your money. You should start with a soil test (go to: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ or e-mail soiltest@umn.edu ) before applying fertilizer. Weed Control Fall can also be a great time to kill those perennial broad-leaf weeds. They, too, are storing nutrients in their roots, so taking care of them in the fall eliminates them next spring. If using an herbicide (or fertilizer), always read ALL the instructions and follow recommendations for application rates, weather conditions and personal protection. Spot-treating may be the most economical and safest way to apply broad-leaf weed control products. Herbicide/fertilizer combination products can compromise both the fertilizer and the weed control effectiveness due to the ‘water-in’ vs. ‘leave-on-the-leaf” instructions. Crabgrass sprouts earlier in the year, so don’t use a crabgrass pre-emergent product in the fall. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar for more information. Mowing Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, sometime in October. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and remove no more than the top 1/3 of grass length in any one mowing. During warm weather 3-4” long grass keeps the ground moister. But if you leave it long over the winter it becomes a vole paradise! Leaving (small) grass clippings on your lawn returns their nitrogen to the lawn and mulching blades help keep the clippings small. Bee Lawns Bee populations have been declining in part due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Having flowering plants in a lawn will help bees, and you also increase your lawn’s resilience; it will have healthier soil and need less watering, mowing, and fertilizer. White clover, Creeping thyme, Self heal, and Ground plum are low-growing flowers that tolerate mowing down to 3 inches. Turf areas that have little foot traffic or that are primarily aesthetic are great locations. Examples are: steep slopes, right of ways or easements. Do not use broad-leaf weed control on Bee Lawns: it will kill all the flowers that the bees need. Spot treat very carefully. Go to: https://bluethumb.org/turf-alternatives/pollinator-lawn/ for more information. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Chocolates From Sweet Potatoes Do you love sweet potatoes but have trouble growing them? Well, you’re not alone. Read how Master Gardener Anita Oakman managed to find a way to serve her skinny sweet potatoes that fooled and pleased her sweet potato loving mother-in-law. You might love this recipe, too! Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener I’ve never had much luck with growing sweet potatoes but every spring, hope springs eternal! I was so excited to get my hands on some not-so-readily-available Murasaki slips and a new elevated self-watering planter so I wouldn’t have to dig up my big purple potatoes on my hands and knees. I grabbed a new large bag of soil with compost and planted those slips after all danger of frost had passed. I made sure to keep up on my watering and sometimes even added soluble fertilizer. What a conscientious gardener I was! And what beautiful foliage grew from those slips! I thought for certain that some large, luscious tubers lay below the surface. Well, I was wrong. Again. Those of you who have grown sweet potatoes successfully saw this coming, didn’t you? You saw it from the moment I mentioned “new soil with compost”. And the words “beautiful foliage,” were a dead giveaway. You may have found that they produce well in poor soil , not in compost-happy soil and certainly not in over-fertilized soil. Lesson learned. See if you can detect the difference between my two homegrown Murasakis and the two I picked up at Trader Joe’s. Defeat is not such a bitter pill to swallow, especially when dealing with compostable goods, but I was too emotionally attached to let those skinny little potatoes fade away. I cured them properly and stored them in a cool, dry place. And then Thanksgiving rolled around and brought my mother-in-law, Carolyn, along. Carolyn grew up in farm country and loves her sweet potatoes sweet, with butter and marshmallows. I had unfortunately neglected to pick up any canned candied yams before the stores closed and had to call those Murasakis up from the bullpen. Or rather, the basement. I simply washed and scrubbed them well, poked them with a fork, placed them on a cookie sheet and roasted them with the skins on in a 425 degree oven for 30 minutes. The cooking time was reduced from an hour for normal-sized sweet potatoes, but even a half hour was too long. My potatoes came out too soft and small to even think about peeling, so I chopped them crosswise, poured a little melted butter on them, and into a serving dish they went. Our Thanksgiving dinner was lovely and when it came time to send guests home with leftovers, we asked Carolyn what she wanted. “Oh, I’ll have some smoked turkey and mashed potatoes and some of Anita’s homemade buns,” she said. “And I’d like some of those little chocolates for dessert, too.” With their deep purple color and natural sweetness (and a little assist from the melted butter), my mother-in-law had mistaken the Murasaki sweet potatoes for chocolate pieces. We drove her home happy and well-fed.

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Roasted Stuffed Butternut Squash Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a special vegetable dish for the holidays? Or, how about a vegetable-main dish combination perfect for cold winter nights? What vegetable could fit the bill better than butternut squash? This recipe will make your mouth water and your tummy full. Ingredients Topping : 1/4 cup crumbled Feta Fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano as a garnish Honey (optional) Filling: 1lb. (uncooked) of your favorite sausage Squash: 1 large Butternut Squash, halved and seeded 2 TBSP Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste or, Garlic salt and smoked paprika. Directions Preheat oven or grill to 400° Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush olive oil on squash halves. Make several cuts in the neck and cube the neck, putting the cubes in the seed cavity. Season to taste with salt and pepper or garlic salt and smoked paprika. 4. Stuff with the sausage. If using the grill, place on an aluminum baking sheet, or whatever you might ordinarily use. Cook cut side up for 40-45 minutes or until done. Top with feta cheese. Drizzle with honey, if desired. Run under broiler for a bit, if you want more color. Garnish with fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-5)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)

< Back Top 3 Flowering and Edible Weeds Most of us view weeds as mere pests in the garden to be eradicated from our gardens. But some weeds have the redeeming virtue of being edible. In this article, Master Gardener Kristina Valle describes how three common weeds can be consumed and appreciated. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener “A weed is but an unloved flower,” – Ella Wheeler Wilcox. This year we welcomed a spring full of heavy rains that lasted days and quickly melted our towering snow mounds. This rain also gave many perennials and bulbs a much needed jump start to produce new growth on stems that may have been on the rabbits’ menu for most of the winter. While I did lose a few plants this winter, there were many that benefitted from a severe haircut and the early, and extra rain aided in providing the plants with the necessary support to recover and grow back quickly. Unfortunately, rain will help anything that is able to grow, including weeds. While most weeds are unwelcomed and take away some of the gardener’s enjoyment, eradicating them from our yard and gardens is a necessary part of the job, as we all know. But did you know that there are many weeds that can have a positive place in your life or rather, on your plate? This article will discuss the top 3 flowering and edible weeds that may already exist in your garden and that may alter your perception of their presence in your landscape. #1 – The Dandelion It’s early spring and POP! Bright yellow flowers appear and carpet many open spaces along roads and are sprinkled throughout our yard and gardens. As Minnesotan’s we appreciate the first sign of color after a cold and dull winter, but these flowering weeds are met with disdain as we know that our summer work has just begun. Instead of looking at these weeds negatively, we should really be thinking of all of their uses instead. All three parts of a dandelion are edible. The Flower The flower head can be incorporated into cookies, quiche, muffins and many other baked goods, adding a honey like flavor to any recipe. Another alternative is frying the petals as a fritter like you would for squash blossoms. The Leaves The leaves are simply greens and are versatile enough to be used in a sauté with pasta or even eggs. The Roots Looking for a coffee or tea alternative? Consider dandelion roots! Dandelion Root Tea is commonly available in most grocery stores, but you’ll need to put in a little more effort if you want to make some Dandelion Root Coffee. First, you’ll need to dry the roots in a food dehydrator, and then roast them in the oven until they are thoroughly dry. Afterwards, place the roots in water and bring to a boil, strain it, drink and enjoy! #2 – The Common Blue Violet While the dandelion is often one of the easiest weeds to identify, greater care must be taken for other edible weeds. The violet has heart shaped leaves and 5 petals. Unlike the dandelion, only the petals and leaves of the violet are edible so it is important to be sure you have a violet before you harvest. If you’ve been to a restaurant that garnishes dishes, or even cocktails with flowers, you may have eaten a violet. The visual appeal livens up whatever you’re serving and invites a touch of the season into whatever occasion you’re celebrating. If you’re feeling a little extra, consider freezing the petals in individual ice cubes to add a surprise to any cold drink during your next get together. #3 – The Clover Whenever I think of clover, I’m reminded of a scene in the Disney Movie “Bambi” where Thumper is feasting on and stuffing his cheeks full of delicious clover. Sure, bunnies love it, but we can enjoy it too! Similar to a dandelion, you can prepare the flower head as a fritter. The clover can also be added to pasta, salads and teas and can be easily identified by its pink-purple flower. It is best to boil the plant before eating it, which can be accomplished when cooking a pasta or making a tea, as the plant (excluding the flower) can be a little hard on the digestive system. Finally, have you considered creating a Bee Lawn? Need a cover crop? Your clover will be a benefit not only to your pollinators but to you as well! It is my hope that this article has at a minimum, piqued your curiosity about the volunteers that grace our gardens each year. If you are interested in foraging outside of your garden space for these weeds, onto public lands, do not harvest unless you can be sure that no pesticides have been used on the weeds. Always exercise caution when foraging and remember to limit your haul to only 10% so that the local wildlife is not negatively impacted by the removal of some beneficial plants. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Dividing Bearded Iris Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Your spectacular bearded iris have finished blooming. What do you to keep them coming back just as gorgeous next year? Irises need to be divided every 2 to 5 years in order to maintain full, healthy blooms and avoid insects such as the iris borer or diseases such as soft rot. The good news is that it is relatively easy to do! The night before, water the iris to insure moist soil when digging them up. And decide where you are going to put the extra bulbs in your garden after you do divide them. Remember that iris prefer well drained soil and full sun. Use a shovel/pitch fork to dig around the iris being careful to lift clumps while maintaining roots attached to the rhizomes. Gently remove soil from the rhizomes. You can use a garden hose if necessary. Divide the iris rhizomes with a pruning shears or a sharp knife using natural divisions. Make sure that you include part of the rhizome, some roots, and a fan of leaves. Cut the foliage back approximately 6 inches. If the foliage is yellow or you see dark streaks, inspect for iris borer and either discard those rhizomes with the borer or if limited damage, eliminate the borers and save the rhizomes being careful to cut out any damaged parts. Disinfect the cutting tools between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Remove any older spongy growth. To prevent infection, the rhizome can be soaked for about half an hour in a 10% bleach solution, if desired. They can also be treated with sulfur dust or an insecticide/fungicide if pest problems are severe. These steps are usually not needed. Soaked rhizomes, however, would need to dry in a shady place prior to re-planting. It is also recommended that you allow the cut rhizomes to cure for a few hours before replanting in a cool place. When replanting, give the rhizomes space to grow by planting 12 to 18 inches apart. Make sure the rhizome is planted shallowly on a mound and just cover the rhizome. Avoid planting too deeply. Iris are often planted in groups of three arranged in a triangle, with each fan of leaves pointing away from the other irises in the group. Additional information and step by step pictures are provided on the following websites: Dividing Bearded Iris or Divide Peonies and Iris in August. Photo credits: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Are You Contributing to the Illegal Succulent Trade? Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener The demand for rare and unique plants plus the ease of being able to buy and sell plants online has contributed to the illegal succulent trade business. This, in turn, has created a nightmare for plant conservationists, particularly in South Africa. This article is intended to bring awareness to this problem and to suggest how you can avoid being part of the problem. the plant on the left, Lithops Olivaceae, is threatened by trade Succulents have become very popular and online succulent sales boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic. But not all plants are grown equally or harvested legally. Many are illegally harvested from South Africa. According to traffic.org , over 1.6 million plants from 650+ species were illegally harvested between 2019 to May of 2024. TRAFFIC is a non-governmental organization working with the South African government and botanical gardens to ensure that trade in wild species is legal and sustainable. Single confiscations included 60,000 individual plants and researchers believe whole species are extinct in the wild because of one harvesting event. Succulents evolved to survive the harsh arid climate of South Africa and some animals depend on these water storing plants during dry spells. Many of the succulents in South Africa’s ‘Succulent Karoo Biome’ are endemic to the area and found nowhere else in the world. The Succulent Karoo is a nearly 45,000 square mile biodiverse, arid region spanning South Africa's Atlantic coast into Namibia. It hosts the planet's richest succulent flora—nearly 40% of the world’s succulent species—with 40% endemic to the region. Aloe Striata-plant of the Succulent Karoo How would you know if you were contributing to the shady business of succulent poaching? Ask yourself these questions about plants you are about to purchase online: Tips to tell if a succulent was propagated and grown in a nursery or sourced from the wild. More likely to be propagated and grown in a nursery Signs it may have been sourced from the wild Appearance Neat and tidy. Irregular. Like they’ve seen some things (hungry herbivores, fires, being stepped on, a rough harvesting and transport). Form Upright like it was growing towards an artificial light. Warped form potentially from winding around a rock or another plant to access sunlight. For species that only bloom once No seed pods or flowers present Seed pods or flowers present Size (for a species that takes a long time to mature) Smaller Large Roots Uncut and in the shape of the pot it was planted in. Cut from whatever the plant was growing on or around. Info Seller has paperwork from a mother stock with legal permits and/or can tell you when a succulent was planted. No additional information or paperwork upon request. Seller A large, known, certified dealer. Unknown individual Is the species you are buying protected? Always check with local and national laws to determine if it’s legal to possess your plant or move it across borders. Buying locally helps avoid issues with CITES (Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species) permits and reputable sellers should be able to provide you with proof of permitting. You can put the plant name into the IUCN Red List Portal to check to see if it is a succulent being threatened by trade. If it is and you can’t verify it was propagated sustainably, do not purchase it! Criminal networks used to traffic plants are often involved with other illegal activities. It would be best to buy from a seller with a legitimate certification from Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network , Fairtrade Flowers and Plants , or FairWild . If you do think that a plant you found online has been harvested illegally, report it to the ecommerce platform it was listed on. Etsy, Ebay and other sites are partnering with the Coalition to end Wildlife Trafficking online to prevent the sale of illegally obtained plants. It pays to ask questions first. If a plant you bought online ends up being confiscated you could be the one that ends up in big trouble! Succulents are fascinating plants and it is fun to acquire unusual and exotic plants. But, we all have a responsibility ensure that our purchases are legal not interfering with the ecosystem of the planet. Resources https://www.traffic.org/news/are-your-houseplants-fuelling-extinction-south-africas-rare-succulents-face-silent-crisis/ https://www.traffic.org/publications/reports/a-succulent-trade/ https://www.traffic.org/site/assets/files/26240/succulents_report.pdf https://www.sanbi.org/media/sas-succulent-plants-experience-unprecedented-rates-of-decline/ Succulent Karoo , Wikipedia Photo Credit: Kristin van Shie, TRAFFIC (1), Wikipedia, Dwergenenpaartje (2)

< Back Tomato Problems Homegrown tomatoes are the highlight of a summer garden. In this article you will learn some very helpful tips to achieve the best possible harvest. Janice Gestner, Master Gardener Tomatoes (Solanium lycopersicum) are among the most commonly grown vegetables by gardeners. The joy of using vitamin-rich, low-calorie tomatoes in fresh summer salads, in sauces, and many more ways make it one of the most versatile vegetables grown. The easiest way to avoid tomato problems is by giving them the site, space, and conditions they want as a plant that originated in South America. Tomatoes along with its Nightshade family members, including eggplants and peppers, love the sun-filled days with temperatures between 65°F and 95°F. They love well-drained, fertile soil, pH numbers between 5.5-7, mulches to regulate soil temperatures and moisture, and plenty of space. Cages, stakes and careful pruning help keep plants clean and less prone to disease. Consistent watering until tomatoes are ripening is also important to overall plant health. Gardeners who carefully follow all of the growing tips for tomato plants will avoid many of the disease and insect issues that can be problems for tender tomato plants. However, sometimes climate conditions, gardening errors, insects and other problems happen. The University of Minnesota Extension site titled “Tomato Disorders” at https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/tomato-disorders provides information about possible disorders. A summary of the information found on this site includes the following: Disorders may be caused by varietal choices. If gardeners have provided good management, trying different tomatoes varieties might be the best answer for the location. Seed catalogs can give information on disease resistant varieties. Blossom-end rot is an issue where fruit has a tan/black flattened spot on the end of the fruit. This is usually caused by inconsistent watering or possibly too heavy rains. The plant has a calcium deficiency that is not usually caused by soil deficiency but the inability for the plant to take up calcium through the roots. Gardeners should remove all tomatoes with the disorder because they will never develop correctly. New fruit coming on the tomato plant may be okay if watering is carefully controlled. Blossom end rot Sunscald can be seen on tomatoes that have a pale yellow or white side surface. It is caused by too much sun, the result of leaf loss due to over-pruning, insect damage or disease damage. The spots can be an entry point for decay, and tomatoes should be picked immediately since they will not develop properly. Continue to harvest developing tomatoes. Sun scald Early blight is caused by either of two pathogens called Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani . They attack the plant either by being blown in on the wind, splash up from contaminated soil, humidity, wet weather, or even from human contact. They usually start at brown spots on the lower part of the plant. Safe practices to avoid the contamination include watering low to the ground and adding mulch around the plants to avoid soil splash up. Prune away any leaves on the low part of the plant that you see with brown spots. It is okay to remove up to a third of the bottom leaves if necessary. Be sure to wash your hands and clippers to avoid passing the fungus on to other plants. Early blight Growth cracks circling the stems on tomatoes may happen because of fast growth. Heavy rains and high temperatures can also cause these cracks. Regulating watering is the best way to try to avoid the condition. Tomatoes can be used if you cut off the cracking area and use the rest of the tomato. Growth cracks Healthy tomato plants depend upon us to provide the best growing conditions we can provide as described above. Remember to rotate tomato crops to other sunny sections of the garden to avoid leftover pathogen and tomato problems from past years. Last, sometimes gardeners do everything correctly, but weather conditions may still control the harvest outcome. There is always a new year to try again. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)