< Back Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Unless you live in New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, or Hawaii, you are probably familiar with creeping charlie. According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources , it was brought to the United States as far back as 1672 from Europe to be used both as a source of food and for medicinal reasons. Before the widespread use of hops for making beer, creeping charlie was commonly used for that purpose, thus you may hear it referred to as “ale ivy” among other names, including “ground ivy” or “catsfoot.” A quick internet search will provide an abundance of websites claiming creeping charlie provides relief from a number of ailments from ringing in the ears to constipation to colic to bronchitis, and the list goes on and on. The internet, however, is lacking scientific research to support those claims. One thing that is certain is that creeping charlie is in the mint family. Being in the mint family, some fans of creeping charlie enjoy making tea from its leaves, or using them in salads, or cooking them similar to how spinach is prepared. Rather than harvesting creeping charlie for its flavor profile, it is much more likely that you are not fond of the plant and spend an enormous amount of time and energy trying to eradicate it from your lawn or garden. There are a number of reasons creeping charlie is not welcome in a lawn or garden setting. Like the University of Minnesota Extension tells us, creeping charlie spreads or creeps across the top of the ground via surface roots or runners, called stolons, creating a dense carpet. The University of Michigan tells us that, similar to the runners above ground, creeping charlie has a rhizome root system that spreads horizontally below the ground. It can also spread by seed and even by small scraps of plant material dropped on the ground or left in the soil. It is a master at taking over areas where other plants are unsuccessful, like shady, moist areas, or where soil is compacted and only weeds tend to grow. Once established, it is very adaptable and has no problem creeping its way into sunny locations as well. It crowds out grasses and other desirable native plants. In order to get creeping charlie back under control, it is important to recognize the plant in your yard. According to the University of Michigan , this herbaceous perennial can be recognized by its square-shaped stems, scalloped opposite leaves, and bilaterally symmetric purple flowers that bloom from April to June. You may notice the dense carpet of the leaves that the University of Illinois describes as somewhat kidney-shaped with rounded, toothed margins. Before discussing how to get rid of creeping charlie, it is important to look at cultural control methods for how to prevent it from taking over in the first place; or at least how to create an environment that is not as conducive for its growth. One thing a gardener can do to prevent a creeping charlie takeover is to plant a shade tolerant grass in shady areas instead of a sun-loving Kentucky bluegrass, for example. The University of Wisconsin alternatively recommends foregoing grass in difficult shaded areas and instead planting other shade-loving plants like hostas, pachysandra, or vinca. Once alternative plants are established, newly introduced creeping charlie would have a more difficult time competing. Another cultural method to prevent or hinder the spread of creeping Charlie, would be to alter the growing conditions. Improving drainage or watering less makes the area less desirable for creeping charlie. The University of Minnesota also suggests reducing the amount of shade by trimming shrubs or pruning trees. Mechanical methods of getting rid of creeping charlie include hand-pulling the plants. The University of Michigan reminds us that it will take diligence and patience to remove all of the plants. The most important thing to remember about this method is to get rid of every piece of the plant. Since any little piece left behind can sprout a new plant, it may take multiple seasons to clear out an area. With that in mind, mowing an area of creeping charlie can cause it to spread if the plant is mowed and the clippings are left behind. Remember to bag clippings when mowing an area that is infested with the plant. The Minnesota DNR also recommends setting the mower at a taller setting and fertilizing less to help choke out the creeping charlie. Physical barriers, like edging, are not very effective in stopping the spread of creeping charlie. The stolons above ground and rhizomes below ground are very adept at finding their way over, under, or around barriers. However, if there is an area where you have decided to let creeping charlie live in your yard, a physical barrier will at least slow the spread as long as you are diligent about keeping it contained and removing any plants that make it past the barrier. If none of the previous methods are reasonable or successful in your situation, it is time to consider herbicides, though, as the DNR states, herbicide control is challenging because creeping charlie can reestablish quickly after post-emergence treatment. The University of Minnesota makes the point that the timing of herbicide application makes a difference in its effectiveness. They recommend fall as the best time to apply it when the plant is taking up nutrients from the soil in order to survive winter. Purdue University adds that in the fall a very careful spot application is less likely to affect surrounding garden plants than in the spring when they are more actively growing. The next choice is spring when creeping charlie is actively growing if there are no surrounding plants or if they are shielded from the herbicide. The most effective herbicide against creeping charlie will contain the ingredient triclopyr. Also mentioned are 2,4-D and Dicamba. These are all selective broadleaf herbicides. This means that if you are treating creeping charlie in your lawn rather than in a garden, you do not need to worry about killing your lawn grasses as it will only kill the creeping charlie. Two - three applications per year should be sufficient to keep it under control if instructions are carefully followed, though the University of Wisconsin warns against applying Dicamba more than twice per year. In the past, gardeners touted the use of Borax to treat creeping charlie. Research at the University of Wisconsin and Iowa State University have proven that it should not be used as broadleaf weed control against creeping charlie or any other weeds. It was found that even in small amounts, it is bad for the soil, providing an unfavorable growing environment for desirable plants. If you have a large area where creeping charlie has completely taken over, you may want to consider one of these solutions. One method recommended by staff at the University of Michigan is called sheet composting, or lasagna composting. Layers of organic material are placed upon newspaper or cardboard to smother the creeping charlie and give you a fresh start. In a sunny location, the University of Minnesota recommends another natural method called solarization, where a sheet of plastic over the infested area for several months raises the temperature so that the creeping charlie can no longer survive. If you prefer a chemical alternative, the University of Minnesota suggests that if your lawn is at least 50% creeping charlie, you may want to apply a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like Round-Up. It will kill all the vegetation. As with all chemicals, be sure to carefully follow the instructions to safely apply it and to see when it is safe for people and pets to enter the area and when you can re-seed the area. Everyone’s situation is different, so it is important to consider all the different options for ridding your lawn and garden of creeping charlie. Everyone’s tolerance level is different, so one last thing to consider, but definitely not the least, is whether or not you can live with creeping charlie. Keeping our neighbors happy and controlling invasive weeds from spreading across the property line is important, but perhaps you have an area in your yard where you can allow creeping charlie to co-exist with you. It does provide a small benefit to pollinators, and the carpet of delicate purple flowers in the spring is a beautiful sight. Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota (2, 5)

< Back Discover Delicata Squash? Delicata Squash is favored for its delicate, edible skin. No peeling necessary! This squash is booming in popularity. Here are some growing tips. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener So what is delicata squash anyway? It is an oblong shaped squash with green or orange lines running from end to end. It is actually classified as a winter squash but has a thin skin (similar to summer squash) that can be eaten. The delicate skin is the basis for its name. Even though it is technically a winter squash, it does not store as well as other winter squash though because of its skin. It is a cultivar of the species called Cucurbita pepo . Other common names for this squash are peanut squash, Bohemian squash, or sweet potato squash. I have to admit that I had never even heard of Delicata Squash until last year when I learned that 228 Master Gardeners from 49 counties across Minnesota conducted seed trials on this plant. Six different varieties were tested. Master gardeners were looking for the best germination rates, how well the seeds grew, which ones tasted best including texture, and insect and disease susceptibility, as well as a few other factors. Click here to learn more about how this particular squash type performed. This squash appears to be growing in popularity since Cornell University’s Plant Breeding department developed a non-hybrid open pollinated variety around twenty years ago which was more mildew disease resistant. Master Gardeners across the state found it was easy to grow. What some of us didn’t know was what to do with it once harvested. Delicata squash is primarily roasted but can also be steamed, sauteed, and microwaved. Some recipes call for the squash to be stuffed with meat or other vegetables. I knew it was becoming popular when Country Living had an article on “31 Ways to Use Delicata Squash for Dinner Tonight” (October 22, 2021) among other websites/magazines. Delicata squash is a good source of dietary fiber and potassium but not as rich in beta-carotene as other winter squashes. However, if you want to try something different, consider growing this product in your garden this year. Sow seed in the garden in late May to early June, or start seeds indoors in late April. Make sure to pick squash before a hard freeze. Check out our Master Gardener videos on growing Delicata Squash: “How, When’s, Where’s,” “Delicata Squash Borer Protection,” “Delicata Squash Borer,” and “ Delicata Squash Harvest.” Sources: https://extension.umn.edu/news/master-gardeners-are-busy-during-winter https://www.countryliving.com/food-drinks/g4686/delicata-squash/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/pumpkins-and-winter-squash#choosing-pumpkin-and-winter-squash-varieties-235460 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delicata_squash Photo Credit: Gurney's Seed and Nursery,creative Commons Licenses (1) & Centerstagewellness.com , Flickr Pro (2)

< Back Best Time to Prune Trees Faith Appelquist, Master Gardener Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. If it is between opening up a wound to heat or opening to the cold, opening the wound to the cold is best. Optimally, the perfect window would be past February and into March. The chance of frostbite on the sensitive cambium is less, and the sap is not rising. When certain species are trimmed during the growing season, such as American Elms or Oaks, pheromones (scents) are given off at the wound, attracting insects that can carry fungus on their bodies that can infect these trees. These trees are best pruned in the fall or early spring. Deadwood should be pruned anytime because it is a health and safety issue. Deadwood is food for decay organisms and the quicker it is removed from a tree the sooner it can start closing the wound and preventing the spread of decay. If the tree was planted for its spring flowers, such as magnolia, dogwood, crabapple, you will want to wait until after it has flowered to prune. Otherwise you prune flower buds off and reduce the abundance of flowers that spring. For certain species such as maples and birches, I would trim these in the summer to minimize sap oozing or ‘bleeding’. Pruning during full leaf is fine, but dormant season is probably still best for tree health.

< Back Managing Salt Damage on Plants B.J. Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota winters inevitably bring snow and ice on our driveways and sidewalks. Various deicer products are often used to manage these winter hazards. But many Minnesota plants are sensitive the chemicals that are in the deicers. This article will help you to know which plants are susceptible to salt damage and which plants can resist salt damage. Winters in Dakota County can be freezing cold, snowy, and windy. These conditions require sidewalk shoveling, driveway snow-blowing, manual ice scraping and street plowing up to and including applications of deicer products. Your d iligent clearing of snow and ice may minimize the amount of deicer spread across sidewalks, and driveways during the course of winter. Remember also, that as the ice and snow melts, the salts will run-off into the garden and impact garden plants roots. Many Minnesota plants are sensitive to road salt, which can cause dehydration, nutrient deficiencies, and eventual death due to both salt spray on foliage and salt accumulation in the soil. Evergreens are particularly vulnerable. The composition of deicer products varies depending upon requirements of the area. The primary difference is that "road salt" typically refers to raw, inexpensive rock salt for large-scale use, think streets and highways. While "sidewalk salt" (or "ice melt") often includes blends of different chemicals such as calcium chloride or magnesium chloride which are more effective in colder temperatures and can be less damaging to surfaces and plants. You can minimize the negative effects of deicer products on the plants in your garden by understanding which plants are better able to tolerate the chemicals. Choice of plant type and placement augments the plant’s innate ability to tolerate deicers salts. Here is information about plants that are and are not tolerant to deicers. Native Minnesota trees and shrubs that are sensitive to road salt include: Maples (Red maple, Silver maple, Sugar maple); Dogwoods (Grey dogwood, Red-osier dogwood, Red twig dogwood); Basswood (American basswood, Littleleaf linden); Pines (Eastern white pine, Red pine, Scots pine); and Firs (Balsam fir, Concolor fir). salt damaged evergreen Meanwhile, other Minnesota plants, including trees, shrubs, and perennials, are tolerant of road salt and are excellent choices for landscaping near roads, driveways, and sidewalks. Deciduous plants are generally more salt-tolerant than evergreens as they shed their leaves annually. These include trees such as: Oaks (Bur, Northern Red, and Swamp White); Hackberry; Honey Locust; Kentucky Coffee tree; River Birch; Serviceberry and Eastern red cedar. Along with shrubs : Sumacs (Staghorn & Smooth); Chokeberry; Winterberry; Lilacs; Viburnums ( Viburnum spp. ); Junipers ( Juniperus spp. ); Potentilla; and Rose ( Rosa rugosa ). Black Chokeberry Additionally, the following grasses, perennials and wildflowers are effective at handling both salt spray and soil accumulation and are excellent for boulevard gardens. Grasses : Little Bluestem; Big Bluestem; Switchgrass; Prairie Dropseed; Perennials and Wildflowers: Black-Eyed Susan; Purple Coneflower; Goldenrod; Asters; Butterfly Milkweed; Catmint; Sedums; Daylilies; and Yarrow. Common Milkweed For specific recommendations on seed mixes for different applications, the Minnesota Stormwater Manual provides detailed guidance. From quick facts about managing deicing products to in depth area management are available here: https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/effects-deicing-salts-landscapes Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Missouri Botanical Garden (2)

< Back County Hosts Seed Collection for Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers Sam Talbot From backyards to boulevards, native plants are popping up throughout Dakota County. The burgeoning interest from homeowners to include prairie species in their gardens, coupled with incentive programs, such as “Lawns to Legumes” -- has created a novel demand for native seeds and how to grow them. In partnership with Dakota County Parks, Master Gardeners are uniquely poised to help bring pocket prairies to local neighborhoods. As the tallgrasses and wildflowers turned to seed in the fall, volunteers and University of Minnesota Extension staff met in the county parks to operationalize those efforts. Sam Talbot, then a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, joined two groups of Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) in late-September to collect native plant seeds from restored prairies at Lebanon Hills and Whitetail Woods Regional Parks. The first group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park’s Equestrian Trailhead and the other, at Whitetail Woods. In each location, the Master Gardeners—Jo Kapke, Pat Peschman, Roger Grabowski, Robert Hatlevig, Kathy Anderson, Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Pat Ramel, Christina Libaire, Mary Beth Kufrin, Sue Light, Margie Blare, Katie Possis, and Marie Stolte—looked out over tall grasses that swayed hypnotically in a stiff wind. Sam explained that they were looking at some of the county’s earliest restored prairies. They were planted when restoration efforts allowed for seed to be sourced throughout the Midwest. Today, the county collects and uses native seeds from its own remnant prairies (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. Since the seeds from these older restored prairies aren’t used as a source for new restorations, DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the Master Gardeners’ free seed library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow. The rest of the seeds were grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the DCMGV May Plant Sale . Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. Free seed library at Farmington Library In the fall, it’s much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. Sam arrived early and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Cup Plant seeds Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. Wild Bergamot seed heads At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he hosted another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” Photo credit: Dakota County Master Gardeners (1,2), flickr.com (3), Courtney Celley/USFMW (4)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back How to Choose the Best Plants – Master Gardeners Can Help It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, Cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2024, 298 Master Gardeners in 55 counties around the state, tested 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year in January. This will be the 43nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. In 2024, Master Gardeners tested 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2024, the top ranked plants in each category were: Vegetables Asian long beans: Yu Long Noodle Kin – soak seeds overnight before planting outside in mid-May Shallot: Davidor Swiss Chard: Bright Lights Broccoli: Happy Rich – excellent cooked flavor, high yield and minimal stem diameter Pepper: Cupid Cilantro: Calypso – Bred to last longer and produce a bigger harvest; direct sow in late May Flowers Helichrysum (Strawflowers): Scarlet Choice Double Centaurea (Bachelor Buttons): Blue Boy Shallots Note : You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables or flowers for your enjoyment. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota; Susan Hickey (1), Robert Hatlevig (2,3), University of Minnesota Extension; Jenna Kahly (4)

< Back Our State Insect: The Monarch Butterfly Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The days are getting shorter, the leaves are changing, some days there is a noticeable chill in the air. Time to head south before the snow flies. I’m not talking about Minnesotans who’ve experienced one too many frigid winters, but rather the Minnesota state butterfly, the monarch. Click here to read fascinating facts about the monarch butterfly, renowned for its extraordinary migration. Since March 31, 2000, the monarch butterfly has represented Minnesota as the state butterfly after being promoted by a fourth-grade class at Anderson Elementary School in Mahtomedi, Minnesota. It was a popular choice. Elementary schools in six other states convinced their state legislatures to adopt the monarch as their state butterfly as well. Though monarch butterflies can be seen all over North America, from Canada to Mexico, the eastern monarch butterfly numbers have dropped drastically over the last few decades. In fact, on July 21, 2022, the International Union for Conservation of Nature declared the monarch as endangered, threatened by habitat destruction and climate change. However, the monarch is not protected by the Endangered Species Act (ESA) because the US Fish and Wildlife Service has not yet determined the monarch belongs on the protected list. Most creatures on the ESA list have very localized habitats, whereas the monarch is widespread, making it difficult to enforce protection of its habitat. To understand the range of the monarch, it is important to look at the life cycle of the insect. The Latin name for the monarch butterfly is Danaus plexippus, which literally means sleepy transformation. The monarch undergoes a complete metamorphosis from egg, to larva (caterpillar), then pupa (chrysalis), and finally the adult stage. The egg and caterpillar stages occur only on species of milkweed (genus Asclepias), whereas adults survive on the nectar from a variety of flowering plants. In a single year, there will be 4 to 5 generations of monarchs. A butterfly lays one egg at a time, roughly the size of a pinhead or pencil tip. But throughout their lifespan a female lays an average of 300-500 eggs specifically on milkweed plants so that the caterpillars will emerge directly on their only source of food. During the caterpillar stage, they simply eat, rest, and grow until they form into a chrysalis from which they finally emerge as a butterfly to begin the cycle all over again. The monarch life cycle The transformation from egg to adult takes about a month, and then they live only two to six weeks as adults, where their main focus is laying eggs to build their population throughout the summer. That is until the last generation of the season. This super generation is the group of butterflies that make the long journey all the way to Mexico along with tens of millions of other monarchs. This generation may live up to eight or nine months! Tags or modern sensors have been placed on monarchs to gather data about the amazing journey that takes them from as far north as Canada thousands of miles to their winter home in Mexico, or in California in the case of the western Monarchs. Upon reaching their destination west of Mexico City, they flutter around in the warmth of the sun by day, and at night they huddle together covering entire trees. In the spring, they make the journey north laying eggs on milkweed plants along the way. To experience for yourself the magical sight of millions of monarchs wintering in Mexico, consider traveling with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s curator of endangered plants on Kingdom of Monarchs | Minnesota Landscape Arboretum trip to Mexico in February 2024. In the days ahead, be on the lookout for the last stragglers beginning their long journey south to Mexico. The easiest way to tell the difference between a male and female monarch, is to note the presence of black dots on each of the male’s wings or the lack of dots on the female. Ponder the long road ahead for these magnificent creatures and perhaps how you can help them thrive in the future. Consider creating or enhancing a pollinator habitat in your yard or community. Identify a sunny location, prepare the site for sowing native seeds or installing native plants, plant, and continue to conduct maintenance to provide a healthy habitat. Check out Minnesota Zoo for a list of Minnesota native pollinator favorites. For additional resources for monarch fans of all ages, visit monarch joint venture . Resources for this article: https://ece.engin.umich.edu/stories/tracking-monarch-butterfly-migration-with-the-worlds-smallest-computer https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/us-state-butterflies-and-insects.html#:~:text=The%20Monarch%20Butterfly%20is%20an,the%20friendliness%20of%20the%20states . https://www.iucn.org/press-release/202207/migratory-monarch-butterfly-now-endangered-iucn-red-list#:~:text=Gland%2C%20Switzerland%2C%2021%20July%202022,habitat%20destruction%20and%20climate%20change . https://www.fws.gov/press-release/2020-12/endangered-species-act-listing-monarch-butterfly-warranted-precluded https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/monarch-butterfly#:~:text=The%20monarch%20butterfly%20is%20known,ability%20to%20hibernate%20and%20metamorphize . https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/2000/0/306/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/insects/monarchbutterfly.html https://arb.umn.edu/kingdom-monarchs https://mnzoo.org/conservation/act-wildlife/plant-pollinators/ https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/migration/index.shtml https://monarchjointventure.org/about-us/partners Photo credits: Lisa Olson, Master Gardener (1), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (2), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (3), https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/vital-statistics-and-measuring (4)

< Back Now Swaying in the Minnesota Breeze, It’s the UMN Duluth Developed Innovatrees (Poplar Variety) Mary Gadek, Master Gardener University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and give such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of landscape tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast-growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and furnish such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. Characteristics The poplar tree variety is a cross between native Eastern cottonwood and European black poplar. It has been naturally cross bred at University of Minnesota Duluth over 25 years. Landowners can use the tree for privacy screens, wildlife habitat, windbreaks, conservation plantings and firewood. Tree size: Growing 64% faster than similar varieties, the InnovaTree shoots up about 10 feet each year, reaching 35 feet in less than 5 years and a mature height of over 75 feet. Note: Because of its fast growth and aggressive root system, it is best not to plant near power lines, roadways or buildings. Seedless and Cottonless: Unlike standard cottonwood trees, it is cottonless. Leaf retention: Good late-season leaf retention, with yellow fall foliage. Disease Resistance: Resistant to stem canker and leaf disease Non-GMO Will not spread: InnovaTree does not spread by suckering; meaning, you will not have tiny trees growing up from its root system. It is not an invasive species risk. Growing Needs Minnesota hardy for zones 3-6 Light: Full sun Soil: Loves to grow in well-drained loam, sand loam, clay loam and light clay soils Moisture: Will tolerate occasional flooding and drought, but prefers moist, well-drained soil Nursery Locations For current nurseries offering the InnovaTree Poplar Variety, click on this link: https://innovatree.umn.edu/buy For additional information, including commercial applications, see: https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/fast-growing-tree and https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/frequently-asked-questions Photo credit: UMN.edu (1,3)

< Back The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Who should plant bulbs? You! Why plant bulbs? Bulbs can provide color all in all three seasons and many bulbs will return year after year. Most bulbs prefer full sun but some bulbs even thrive in shade! What are bulbs and what kinds to plant? What we loosely call bulbs are actually a group containing: true bulbs (Tulips, lilies), corms (Crocus), rhizomes (Callas, Iris) and tuberous roots (Dahlias, Tuberous begonias). All of these plants have a self-contained food storage system that has adapted to living underground. Bulbs are either hardy (perennial) or tender (need to be dug and stored) and this will determine where you plant them. Most people are familiar with Tulips, Daffodils and Lilies. All of these come in early, mid-and late season, as well as short medium and tall. There are a host of small bulbs that are often overlooked. Many of these will grow well in areas under trees because they flower before the tree leaves out. Where should I plant bulbs? Most bulbs should be planted in full sun. They don't like wet feet. Most bulbs will do well in soils ranging from sandy to clay. Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Trillium, Tuberous begonias and Martagon lilies are bulbs that will grow in the shade. How do I plant bulbs? Dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb's circumference. Amend the soil with organic matter. You may have heard of putting bone meal in the hole, don't do this unless you have a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) that shows your soil needs calcium and phosphorous. According to the University of Colorado, bone meal will only be available to plants in soil that has a pH level of 7 or lower. Dakota County soils tend to be naturally high in phosphorous. Make sure to plant bulbs deeper if your soil is sandy. Putting a wire barrier over the bulbs may deter digging critters. It is recommended to plant odd numbers of bulbs for aesthetics. Smaller bulbs can be planted on top of larger bulbs, rather like a fruit cake. When do I plant bulbs? Bulbs can be planted from late September through late October in Minnesota. If you are dividing bulbs, wait for the foliage to dry, but you can move them immediately. Some bulbs, such as lilies, can be moved “in the green”, as long as they are done blooming, and are taken care of through any dry, hot weather. If you wish to overwinter tender bulbs, plant them where it will be easy to dig them in the fall. For more information go to https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes For information on growing bulbs indoors go to https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors . Happy Planting! Photo credits: Carolyn Plank (1), Deborah Snow (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Choose Outdoor Furniture Wisely Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. Consider your Needs When shopping for outdoor furniture, you may fall in love with a table set or lounging chairs on display. But will they fit your outdoor space and your needs? I t’s crucial to measure your outdoor space. This allows you to make good decisions about the size and arrangement of furniture. Also think about how you plan to use your space. Do you need a large dining set for entertaining, a deep-seated sectional for lounging, a small bistro set for morning coffee on a balcony or will children or pets be using the furniture? Let’s look at the categories of furniture: For seating, Adirondack chairs, benches, outdoor sofas, and chaise lounges are all designed for comfort and relaxation. Tables range from small bistro tables to large dining tables. Dining sets will include a table and chairs. Loungers and hammocks - loungers are ideal for sunbathing, while hammocks offer a more relaxed experience. Structural Material is Key The frame is the backbone of any piece of outdoor furniture. For longevity and low maintenance, some woods and aluminum stand out as the best choice, although steel furniture and furniture with a steel frame - like many rattans - are also good choices. Look for solid welds on metal frames; mortise-and-tenon joints in wood furniture. While style is important, prioritizing structure and comfort is key when selecting your furniture. Opt for cushioned seating, ergonomic designs, and weather-resistant materials to ensure that your outdoor space is attractive and functional. Outdoor furniture comes in a number of different materials. Choosing which materials for your furniture is very important. You probably don’t want to spend money on furniture that will fade, crack or rust after one season. You may pay more at the beginning but it is generally more cost effective in the long run to buy outdoor furniture in materials that will last, hopefully several years, with little to no maintenance. That being said, affordability is also a consideration and some cheaper materials are better than others. Let’s examine some common materials. Wood : Wood offers a classic, natural aesthetic. Teak is a popular, durable, and weather-resistant choice. Teak handles freeze-thaw cycles without cracking. A teak dining set may last 30-50 years because its natural oils repel water and resist rot. On the other hand, teak costs more upfront. Cedar and eucalyptus are also good choices at a medium price point. Cedar contains natural oils that resist insects and decay but needs sealing every 2-3 years to prevent splitting. Eucalyptus also provides good weather resistance. Both of these woods will fade to gray without regular maintenance. Pine, oak and other softwoods should be avoided because they absorb moisture more quickly and will rot quickly. Metal : Aluminum is lightweight and rust-resistant. Powder-coated aluminum is designed to hold up in extreme temperatures, its powder-coated seal protecting the aluminum from moisture exposure from melting snow or frost. It also resists scratches and UV damage while staying cooler in direct sunlight. Steel - marine-grade and stainless steel provide superior strength and are durable enough for cold, snowy climates like ours. Steel needs powder coating or paint to prevent rust spots. Wrought iron is sturdy and has a durable classic look. However, it is prone to rust if the coating is chipped or not maintained. It also gets hot in the sun and is heavier to move. Synthetic materials Rattan : Natural or synthetic is a popular choice because it is lightweight yet strong and durable. Synthetic rattan is often rust-proof and weather-resistant. HDPE-high-density polyethylene (recycled plastics) looks similar to wood but is a leader for durability. It resists moisture, insects and UV damage. Further, it doesn’t need painting, sealing or staining and can last 20-30 years. But HDPE can be heavy and less cushioned than other options. Moreover, the initial cost can be high and it can get hot in direct sunlight. Composite materials blend plastic resin with wood fibers – similar to decking materials. Composites resist moisture and do not splinter but heat up more than wood in the sun. They can also retain moisture that expands when frozen, eventually causing surface cracks. Plastic is an affordable and low-maintenance option that is often very weather-resistant. Composite material Adirondack chair Fabric is Not Just About Looks Cushions and fabrics are also important for comfort and appearance. Fabric : While fabric adds color, picking a lounge set or chair made using durable fabric should be the priority. Look for materials that are specially designed for outdoors: fabrics that are UV-resistant, fade-resistant, solution-dyed with heavy-duty stitching and easy to clean. Cheap outdoor fabrics may fade in one season while quality materials may last for years. Water resistant fabrics are essential for fast drying to avoid mold, mildew and stains. “Solution-dyed” fabrics deliver the best value. These fabrics resist fading for years. Acrylic fabrics resist water, mildew and fading, are soft to the touch and clean easily. Olefin also resists water and mildew but is less expensive. Avoid cotton, linen and cotton blends which absorb moisture and support mold growth. Polyester can fade quickly and retain water. Foam : The champion of outdoor seating is foam. Quick-Dry Foam was created especially for outdoor use. Designed to dry fast (2-4 hours) if wet - stopping mold. This type of foam maintains its comfort and shape. water resistant fabric Choosing outdoor furniture can be a complicated business, but the information above can help you choose the right furniture for you and your outdoor space. References https://bluesky-outdoor.com/the-outdoor-edit/10-types-of-patio-furniture-explained/ https://extension.umn.edu/4-h-projects/4-h-home-environment-project https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=outdoor+furniture+how+to+buyhttps:// modernstyle.co.nz/buy-outdoor-furniture/outdoor-furniture-buying-guide-what-to-look-for-before-you-buy/ https://wrmth.ca/fr/blogs/blog/best-materials-for-outdoor-furniture Photo Credit: Rawpixel.com (1), AAA State of Play; All Creative Commons (2), Negative Space; All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)