< Back Fall Lawn Care Margie Blare, Master Gardener Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Renovation Fall can be a great time to renovate your lawn. Seeding is easier because the seedlings won’t experience as much heat stress. Avoid adding additional nitrogen as it will over-stimulate the existing grass, thereby crowding out the new seedlings. Fine fescues will use less water, and tall fescues have longer roots. Figuring out why your lawn isn’t doing well before renovating it, will save you time and money. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability for more information. If you are laying down sod it, too, benefits from cooler temperatures in the fall and will require less water. Fertilization When temperatures are between 50 and 75 degrees your grass starts storing nutrients in its roots, to be used next spring, so late August through mid October is the optimal time to fertilize. Applying fertilizer in the spring leads to fast growth that suffers in the summer heat. Applying it after the ground is frozen creates run-off pollution and wastes your money. You should start with a soil test (go to: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ or e-mail soiltest@umn.edu ) before applying fertilizer. Weed Control Fall can also be a great time to kill those perennial broad-leaf weeds. They, too, are storing nutrients in their roots, so taking care of them in the fall eliminates them next spring. If using an herbicide (or fertilizer), always read ALL the instructions and follow recommendations for application rates, weather conditions and personal protection. Spot-treating may be the most economical and safest way to apply broad-leaf weed control products. Herbicide/fertilizer combination products can compromise both the fertilizer and the weed control effectiveness due to the ‘water-in’ vs. ‘leave-on-the-leaf” instructions. Crabgrass sprouts earlier in the year, so don’t use a crabgrass pre-emergent product in the fall. Go to: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar for more information. Mowing Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, sometime in October. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and remove no more than the top 1/3 of grass length in any one mowing. During warm weather 3-4” long grass keeps the ground moister. But if you leave it long over the winter it becomes a vole paradise! Leaving (small) grass clippings on your lawn returns their nitrogen to the lawn and mulching blades help keep the clippings small. Bee Lawns Bee populations have been declining in part due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Having flowering plants in a lawn will help bees, and you also increase your lawn’s resilience; it will have healthier soil and need less watering, mowing, and fertilizer. White clover, Creeping thyme, Self heal, and Ground plum are low-growing flowers that tolerate mowing down to 3 inches. Turf areas that have little foot traffic or that are primarily aesthetic are great locations. Examples are: steep slopes, right of ways or easements. Do not use broad-leaf weed control on Bee Lawns: it will kill all the flowers that the bees need. Spot treat very carefully. Go to: https://bluethumb.org/turf-alternatives/pollinator-lawn/ for more information. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Raspberry Delights Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Yes, it’s December and there probably isn’t anything growing in your garden right now, since you live in Minnesota. But not that long ago you may have had a bumper crop of berries that are now in your freezer. Here’s a fresh idea for strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, and raspberries. I love raspberries. After all what’s not to like? (Don’t answer that. They do have thorns, but I can overlook one minor flaw). They are sweet and sour all at once, have a fresh fruity fragrance and come in a variety of colors and flavors. And most important, they have seeds that stick in your teeth, which gives you a really good excuse to chew on a toothpick – something my mother never let me do. She said I was going to trip and fall, and it would go through the roof of my mouth (which has never happened). I grow a variety of raspberries. Most of my plants bear red berries that all get ripe within a 3 to 4 week period in the middle of July. I also have a few black raspberries, which are so little and sweet, it’s an absolute delight to eat them fresh off the bush. My golden raspberries are deer magnets, so last spring I moved them all into the end of my fenced-in vegetable garden where the deer and rabbits can’t eat them. They ripen all season long. Note - they do not work well for the recipe below because their golden color turns to brown when heated. Last July, my brother and his family were visiting from Oregon. I was watching the kids for the day while mom and dad had a break. The raspberry bushes were loaded with raspberries ready for picking, so I marched the kids down to the patch to pick with the promise that we were going to make raspberry treats, IF we could pick enough berries. With this motivation, they grabbed buckets and followed me down. They were so excited to see all of the berries and eagerly started picking. Suddenly, “Auntie, what’s this?” and “Oh yuck”, then, “Auntie, there are bugs everywhere!” The bushes were covered with Japanese beetles. They were devouring the raspberry leaves and even some of the berries. I said, “This is war, show no mercy!” They looked askance at me. “Don’t let the invaders destroy my berry patch!” I commanded. “Can we just flick them off?” my niece asked. “No, that doesn’t do any good they will just come right back.” Then I told them to do what I usually do, “You have to pinch their heads until you hear a satisfying crack.” I nearly caused a stampede back to the house with those instructions. So, I quickly changed to a softer approach, “here’s a bucket with soapy water in it, brush them into them into it or shake the branch over the bucket.” That was something they could do. We divided our team into 2 bug brushers and 3 berry pickers. In no time at all we had a couple of buckets full of berries, plenty for Raspberry Tarts (see that recipe in the Master Gardener Cookbook, for sale on our website) and Raspberry Stars . We gently washed the berries and then mixed 2 cups of them with 2 Tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons corn starch dissolved in ¼ cup of water . The rest of the berries were divided between some for freezing and some for eating fresh. Then we made the Raspberry Stars. They are best eaten when still warm out of the oven. They don’t keep, so we took one for the team and ate all 18 of them with tea! They also make a beautiful Christmas morning pastry because of their color and shape. A light dusting of powdered sugar gives a snowy touch. I am hoping you have some raspberries in your freezer that you can use for the Raspberry Stars, but if you don’t, store bought Raspberry Jam works too. Raspberry Stars 1 Puff Pastry Sheet (each sheet will yield 9 pastries) 4 Tablespoons Filling (see above for recipe) OR Raspberry Jam 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon water Powdered Sugar for dusting Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay frozen puff pastry on clean work surface and allow to thaw 10 minutes or more. Do not unfold until thawed. Unfold and cut it into 9 equal squares. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the water, set aside. With a sharp knife tip, score L-shaped cuts at the corners of each pastry square. You may need to use a kitchen shears to cut the L-shapes after using the knife. Place 1 teaspoon filling onto the center of each square. Take the outer corner of each puff pastry and fold over into the middle. Dip you finger in the egg water and use it to ‘glue’ each tip into the center. Do this with all four corners, shaping folds into a bow. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges of the pastries with the egg water. Bake for 13-14 minutes or until they puff up and the edges are golden. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Dust with Powdered sugar and serve. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Alternatives to a Christmas Tree: A Greener Christmas By Marjory Blare, Master Gardener How many times have you seen dead, dry Christmas trees next to the road? Sometimes they just stay there, sometimes the city picks them up. But there are greener alternatives. Read on for some creative ideas. Some 95 million Americans decorate their homes for Christmas, of those, almost 80 % opt for artificial trees. Most artificial trees are made in China of chemical-laden plastics. The Natural Resources Defense Council estimates that you would need to use an artificial tree for 20 years to offset its eco-impact. There is a growing trend towards renting a live tree. Right now, it is centered mostly on the west coast, but, if enough people express an interest in it, the idea may catch on here. The idea is that you rent a live tree grown in a pot. At the end of the season, you return the tree, and then it is grown on in a climate-controlled environment and rented out for the next season. A tree can be rented out for 7-10 years, whereupon it will be planted to grow and improve the environment. Although not all of these suggestions are totally “green,” here are some creative ways that Minnesotans can decorate for the holidays: HGTV has a list of 40 alternatives , including a chalkboard tree, a string tree and a flowerpot tree. Look at Homes and Gardens take on decorating ideas, including a keepsake tree and a tree made from books. Or, how about Real Homes ideas including a step ladder tree, a firewood tree and a painted peg board tree. Martha Stewart has a list of alternatives including a dowel tree and a twig tree. how to decorate and care for a Norfolk Island Pine. Please consider some of these alternatives if you are in the market for a new Christmas approach. Photo credits: freeimageslive.co.uk (1), Theodora Sanford, Hennepin County (2), Katherine Bjorndahl, Le Sueur County (3), Renee Miller West St. Paul (4)

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter By Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Jo Kapke, Master Gardener Cover crops are generally something home gardeners think of as being used only in large-scale growing operations—or don’t think of at all! However, the benefits of cover crop usage should entice home gardeners to experiment with them. Oat - Radish Cover crops are beneficial in many ways. They start by serving as a green mulch in your garden - they aid in weed suppression and erosion prevention. In large-scale operations cover crops are often used in walkways or as forage for animals. Some varieties of cover crops attract pollinators to the garden when they flower. Finally, and maybe most importantly, cover crops help with the health of your soil. Legume cover crops such as peas, vetch or clover fix nitrogen in the soil. The living roots of cover crops help maintain soil moisture, hold onto nutrients and support soil microorganisms. When the cover crop is eventually worked into the soil as a green manure, it further supports soil health by adding nutrients as the plant material decomposes. Red clover at the USDA NRCS Plant Material Center. The most daunting part of experimenting with cover crops is choosing the type of crop to use. The type of cover crop you plant depends on when you can plant it and what you are trying to achieve with the crop - nitrogen fixation, weed suppression, etc. Cover crops can be planted in spring (before warm-weather crops are planted), between plantings and after harvest. A winter-kill cover crop planted in the fall is recommended if you are trying cover crops in your home garden for the first time. Examples of cover crops that will die over winter are: buckwheat, oats, peas, berseem clover and tillage radish. General cover crop tips Cover crop seeds can be found at garden centers or online seed retailers. Plant cover crop seed densely; smaller areas can be planted by hand. Follow good crop rotation practices with cover crops. For example, don’t plant tillage radish in an area where other brassicas were harvested or will be planted the following spring. Mow or cut down flowering cover crops to prevent them from self-seeding. Dead plant material can be turned over in the spring or fall. If plant material doesn’t die over winter, wait 2-3 weeks after turning over the green material before planting new seeds or transplants. The Midwest Cover Crops Council has a fabulous tool designed for large-scale growers that can also be used by home gardeners. It includes detailed information on many varieties of cover crops. Cover Crop Decision Tool For more information about cover crops in Minnesota, visit: https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back What to Do with All Those Leaves? Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . .and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Managing Leaves in Your Yard In a forest, tree leaves and other organics form a natural carpet over the soil surface. This conserves moisture, controls temperatures and prevents the soil from eroding. Over time bacteria, fungi and other natural organisms decompose or compost the leaves to supply plants with a natural, slow-release form of nutrients. Consider capturing these same benefits for your own landscapes. Leaves contain up to 80 percent of the nutrients a tree captures from the soil and air during its growing season! Rather than bagging leaves and placing them at the curb to be hauled to landfills or compost sites, you can: Mow Them A light covering of leaves can be mowed; simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, when leaf drop is light—or you have only a few small trees in your yard--this technique is the most efficient way to manage leaf accumulation. Use Them For Mulch Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves. Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival. You can even begin to establish a no-till vegetable garden in late fall by heaping 8 to 10 inches of leaves on a defined bed area in a sunny spot in your yard. A heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the amount of watering you need in the summer. Improve Your Soil Work leaves directly into your garden and flower bed soils now so they decompose by spring. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. Tilling into a light, sandy soil, will improve capacity to hold water and nutrients. But remember, almost all trees and shrubs are susceptible to one or more leaf spot diseases. Fallen leaves that are diseased can harbor plant pathogens over the winter and reinfect the following growing season. These leaves should be raked up and destroyed before the first snowfall. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Should I Mulch or Bag My Leaves? - Should I mulch? Or bag my leaves this fall? (umn.edu) Freeze Dried Leaves on Trees - Freeze-dried leaves on trees caused by early cold temperatures | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Top 3 Flowering and Edible Weeds Most of us view weeds as mere pests in the garden to be eradicated from our gardens. But some weeds have the redeeming virtue of being edible. In this article, Master Gardener Kristina Valle describes how three common weeds can be consumed and appreciated. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener “A weed is but an unloved flower,” – Ella Wheeler Wilcox. This year we welcomed a spring full of heavy rains that lasted days and quickly melted our towering snow mounds. This rain also gave many perennials and bulbs a much needed jump start to produce new growth on stems that may have been on the rabbits’ menu for most of the winter. While I did lose a few plants this winter, there were many that benefitted from a severe haircut and the early, and extra rain aided in providing the plants with the necessary support to recover and grow back quickly. Unfortunately, rain will help anything that is able to grow, including weeds. While most weeds are unwelcomed and take away some of the gardener’s enjoyment, eradicating them from our yard and gardens is a necessary part of the job, as we all know. But did you know that there are many weeds that can have a positive place in your life or rather, on your plate? This article will discuss the top 3 flowering and edible weeds that may already exist in your garden and that may alter your perception of their presence in your landscape. #1 – The Dandelion It’s early spring and POP! Bright yellow flowers appear and carpet many open spaces along roads and are sprinkled throughout our yard and gardens. As Minnesotan’s we appreciate the first sign of color after a cold and dull winter, but these flowering weeds are met with disdain as we know that our summer work has just begun. Instead of looking at these weeds negatively, we should really be thinking of all of their uses instead. All three parts of a dandelion are edible. The Flower The flower head can be incorporated into cookies, quiche, muffins and many other baked goods, adding a honey like flavor to any recipe. Another alternative is frying the petals as a fritter like you would for squash blossoms. The Leaves The leaves are simply greens and are versatile enough to be used in a sauté with pasta or even eggs. The Roots Looking for a coffee or tea alternative? Consider dandelion roots! Dandelion Root Tea is commonly available in most grocery stores, but you’ll need to put in a little more effort if you want to make some Dandelion Root Coffee. First, you’ll need to dry the roots in a food dehydrator, and then roast them in the oven until they are thoroughly dry. Afterwards, place the roots in water and bring to a boil, strain it, drink and enjoy! #2 – The Common Blue Violet While the dandelion is often one of the easiest weeds to identify, greater care must be taken for other edible weeds. The violet has heart shaped leaves and 5 petals. Unlike the dandelion, only the petals and leaves of the violet are edible so it is important to be sure you have a violet before you harvest. If you’ve been to a restaurant that garnishes dishes, or even cocktails with flowers, you may have eaten a violet. The visual appeal livens up whatever you’re serving and invites a touch of the season into whatever occasion you’re celebrating. If you’re feeling a little extra, consider freezing the petals in individual ice cubes to add a surprise to any cold drink during your next get together. #3 – The Clover Whenever I think of clover, I’m reminded of a scene in the Disney Movie “Bambi” where Thumper is feasting on and stuffing his cheeks full of delicious clover. Sure, bunnies love it, but we can enjoy it too! Similar to a dandelion, you can prepare the flower head as a fritter. The clover can also be added to pasta, salads and teas and can be easily identified by its pink-purple flower. It is best to boil the plant before eating it, which can be accomplished when cooking a pasta or making a tea, as the plant (excluding the flower) can be a little hard on the digestive system. Finally, have you considered creating a Bee Lawn? Need a cover crop? Your clover will be a benefit not only to your pollinators but to you as well! It is my hope that this article has at a minimum, piqued your curiosity about the volunteers that grace our gardens each year. If you are interested in foraging outside of your garden space for these weeds, onto public lands, do not harvest unless you can be sure that no pesticides have been used on the weeds. Always exercise caution when foraging and remember to limit your haul to only 10% so that the local wildlife is not negatively impacted by the removal of some beneficial plants. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Find Plants for Tough Sites Have you ever fallen in love with a plant that you know in your brain won’t grow in your garden but your heart made you buy it anyway? You bought that sun-loving plant and planted it – full of hope - in your shady garden. Didn’t work out? Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. Fortunately, this article tells us about a resource that can help you find just the right plant for even tough garden sites. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Over my many years of gardening, one of the most important, yet difficult lessons that I seem to have to re-learn time and time again, is that a plant will thrive best if it is planted in a location where it gets the type of sun, moisture, and soil required for its species. It is so tempting fall in love with a sun-loving plant and convince yourself that you can make it grow in your garden – the one that is all shade. Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. For those of us whose gardens consist of poor soil conditions or natural landscape impediments, it is especially difficult to find plants that will be successful. So, how do you know which plants will thrive in your clay or sandy soil or on your steep backyard slope? Finding the right plants for your area can be challenging, but not impossible. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has produced a free, easy and thorough reference guide that can help you meet the challenge. Click on this link to access “The Best Plants for 30 Tough Sites,” written by Minnesota Master Gardeners and Extension Educators Mary Meyer, Deborah L. Brown, and Mike Zins. The reason why I like this guide so much is that it provides extensive lists of plants and their characteristics for those areas that can be limiting. Rather than waste money buying plants that do not fit your situation, use this guide to find plants that can grow successfully. The reference guide covers: Alkaline Soil Annuals 3 Feet or More Annual Vines That Grow Quickly Boulevard Gardens: Perennials and Small Trees Broadleaf Evergreens Clay Soil Cold Tolerant Annuals Compacted Sites: Trees Crevice Plants Deer Resistant Plants Dry Soil: Annual Foliage Plants, Shade or Under Trees and Trees Fragrant Annuals, Perennials, and Shrubs Indoor Low Light Knot Gardens Lakeshore Native Plants Long-Blooming Perennials Rain Garden Plants River Banks and Canoe Public Access Areas Self-Seeding Perennials Septic Mound Plants Shade: Shrubs, Small Trees, and Tall Perennials Steep Slopes Trees That Produce Minimal Litter Under a Black Walnut Tree While the guide does not show a picture of each plant, it does provide you with a place to start looking. I have used this guide many times and I hope it helps you find that perfect plant for your landscape. Photo Credit: learn.e-limu.org (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Ideengartencrimmitschau.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)

< Back April Bring Us – Asparagus! Julie Harris, Master Gardener If you are lucky enough to have an asparagus bed in your garden, you will probably be able to start harvesting this tasty vegetable in April. And look for fresh asparagus in the stores in April, as well. There are so many fantastic ways to eat asparagus – raw or cooked. But here is our family favorite recipe. Asparagus is one of few perennial vegetables suitable for growing in Minnesota gardens. If you are lucky enough to have an asparagus bed in your garden, you will probably be able to start harvesting this tasty vegetable in April. And look for fresh asparagus in the stores in April, as well. If you would like to start an asparagus bed this year, you should plant between early May and early June. An established bed can provide you with delicious and tender harvests for 15 years or more. There are many ways that you can use asparagus, of course. I ran across this recipe several years ago and it has been a family favorite ever since. Cheesy Asparagus Salad 2 ½ pounds fresh asparagus (white or green, or mix) 1 teaspoon of salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 ounce fresh thyme (or to taste) 1/3 pound Jarlsberg cheese or Swiss cheese, shredded ¼ cup spicy sprouts, optional Trim asparagus and break off thick ends. Place asparagus in boiling water with 1 tsp. salt; reduce heat and cook for 4 – 6 minutes. Cook until crisp-tender. Plunge into cold water to chill. Meanwhile, combine olive oil, vinegar, kosher salt and pepper. Remove leaves from 2/3 of the thyme stems; coarsely chop leaves and add to olive oil mixture. Place chilled asparagus on a platter; pour dressing over asparagus. Garnish with Jarlsberg or Swiss cheese, remaining thyme and spicy sprouts. Photo Credits: Photo 1 - Newsletter Intro - credit: publicdomainpictures.net , Photo 2: Credit – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Protecting Our Trees from Invasive Species Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” This article defines and identifies the invasive species that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” We’re looking at a two part definition. In the first part we see that these species are not native to Minnesota. We often use such terms as exotic, alien, introduced, etc. There is an implication that all invasive species come from outside the United States. This is not always the case. These new pests simply come from outside Minnesota. In the second part of our definition the key word is harm. We are concerned with those pathogens, plants, animals or insects that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) The number one new pest facing our trees in Dakota County is the emerald ash borer (EAB) . The nearest confirmed sighting is in the area of Fort Snelling in Hennepin County and Highland Park in Ramsey County. The general rule that the insect can travel by itself somewhere between 13-15 miles in a given year implies that within a short period of time we will have confirmed sightings within Dakota County. Do you know the symptoms to look for? The first thing to look for is increased woodpecker activity. These birds know a tasty treat when they find one. This increased activity normally happens in the second year after EAB infestation and is followed by vertical splits in the bark and sometimes defoliation in the tree canopy. A closer inspection could then reveal the large s-shaped galleries under the bark and the D-shaped exit holes. These symptoms generally confirm that the tree has been infected. Gypsy Moth The second pest that we all need to be aware of is the gypsy moth . It attacks several varieties of trees but here in Minnesota aspens and oak seem to be the favorite. The gypsy moth caterpillars are capable of defoliating acres of trees. It has arrived in Minnesota! Not necessarily here in Dakota County, but it has invaded out state. Lake and Cook counties in the Arrowhead region have reached the point where they will be experiencing the first steps in a quarantine . How will it affect us? Most of us will not be directly affected. But if we have property in these counties or intend to vacation there we will feel the impact. Thousand Canker Disease Thousand Canker Disease is a third new pest that affects black walnuts. It is a fungus carried by the walnut twig beetle. When it enters the bark it leaves behind a fungus that causes a canker. If you have any black walnut trees you need to be concerned and be able to recognize it. For the rest of us you do need to know that it is now the law that black walnut wood of any size or shape cannot be imported into Minnesota. A quarantine is in effect that makes this illegal. Asian Longhorn Beetle The fourth pest emerging in Minnesota is the Asian Longhorn Beetle . While poplars, maples and box elders seem to be the preferred trees in Minnesota it also feeds on several other varieties which makes it especially dangerous. Signs and symptoms include crown die-back, shallow depressions in the bark where the eggs are laid, sap seeping from these egg niches, pencil-size round exit holes and a sawdust on the top of branches or on the ground surrounding the tree. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Two new and emerging pests do not actually kill the tree but both will damage the fruit the tree produces. The first is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug . It has been found in several Minnesota counties and is considered a pest because it feed on fruit and vegetables. The insect is also considered a nuisance as it invades houses and other buildings in the fall seeking warmth. When disturbed, it emits a foul odor. Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) is also a new and emerging pest and has been found in 20 counties in Minnesota. It is similar to a fruit fly. But unlike the typical fruit fly that feeds on damaged fruit, SWD feeds on intact, healthy, ripening fruit, especially thin-skinned berries. The female can pierce the soft skin and lay its eggs. In doing so there is also a possibility of an introduction of rot and fungus. So far in Minnesota the favorite has been raspberries. It has been known to attack apples and other tree bearing fruits. Oriental Bittersweet In our training one invasive plant was discussed. Oriental Bittersweet has been found in Dakota County in Burnsville and Eagan. It is a vine that can grow over 60 feet long and will girdle and smother trees and shrubs. It is spread by rhizomes and seeds, mainly through birds ingesting and then eliminating the seeds. Through this natural action, entire plant communities have been known to be overwhelmed. iI becomes our job to eradicate it. What Can I Do? We still need to answer one important question. What should be done if you suspect you have found one of these tree pests? There is an “Arrest the Pest” hotline you can email at arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or by phone at 888-545-6684. Doing so could help us protect our native trees.