< Back Tomatoes: What to do Now for Luscious Tomatoes This Summer Tomatoes are one of the most home-grown crop; probably because there is nothing like that big bite or slice of that juicy, delicious red ball. But many enthusiastic home gardeners find themselves frustrated or disappointed in their tomato crop. This article explains gardening practices that you can adopt to increase the chances of producing happy, healthy tomato plants in your yard. Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Many people eagerly await that first bite of homegrown tomatoes every summer. And that first succulent bite is achieved by the work you do now, early in the summer. First, it is not too late to plant tomatoes, but at this point, you will need to purchase plants if you did not start your own. Whether you choose an heirloom or a modern variety (often bred to decrease susceptibility to disease and other unfavorable traits) is a personal preference. One approach to choosing might be to get a variety you have grown before and a variety new to you. Some other characteristics you may want to consider relate to the disease resistance of the tomato plant. Plants marked with “F, FF, FFF” are resistant to fusarium diseases, while a “V” indicates resistance to Verticillium Wilt. A plant marked with “VF” is resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilts. A plant labeled with “EB” is resistant to Early Blight. If you choose a tomato that does not indicate that it has been developed with resistance to different tomato diseases, you’ll want to implement some good, basic gardening practices to decrease the risk of losing your tomato crop. Choose a tomato with a sturdy stem that is at least a pencil width. Make sure there are no spotted leaves as that may be an indicator of disease. Leaves should be spaced closely together. There are two main types of tomatoes; determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bushy and generally do not need pruning, staking, or trellising. The top, also called terminal point, ends with flowers and fruit. They grow to about 24 – 30 inches tall and produce fruits within a 4 to 6-week period. They may be best for container grown tomatoes. Most tomato plants are Indeterminate and they are vining. They do need support to keep their leaves and tomatoes off the ground, allow for air flow, and reduce the risk of diseases. The terminal point keeps growing as the plant grows. Tomatoes grow along the branches, and they will produce fruit until it gets too cold. Stake or trellis plants immediately when you plant them. Good tomato gardening practices start with ensuring good soil. You want rich loamy soil that drains well. If you don’t know what kind of soil, you can do a soil test from the University of Minnesota and add amendments such as fertilizer or other missing nutrients. The next critical step is to not plant your tomatoes in the same place every year. You need to rotate them to different areas in your garden, if at all possible. This helps decrease the threat of diseases that remain in the soil. It is recommended to wait three to four years before planting tomatoes again in that spot. Make sure you space your tomatoes a sufficient distance apart. You can find that information on the seed package or the plant tag. Dig a hole deep enough to place the whole container part of the plant and remove lower leaves and branches so they aren’t touching the soil. If you have a slightly crooked plant, you can actually dig the hole even deeper so the above ground part is the straight part. The tomato will actually grow roots from the stem that is underground. Consistent watering is critical to prevent “blossom end rot” (where the tomato has a black bottom), as is an adequate amount of calcium. You can find products in the store that you may want to periodically add throughout the season. When you water your tomatoes, make sure to water at the base of the plant and not overhead. This reduces disease risk on the leaves and prevents water splashing from the soil onto the plant, which is another source of tomato diseases. You will want to water deeply to help promote deep rooted plants. Generally, one inch a week is recommended but you may need to water more frequently if it is very hot and dry, or your tomato is in a container. Sandy soils will require more frequent watering, too. Despite your best efforts, you may still find diseases impacting your tomato plants and your tomatoes. Early blight, tomato viruses, bacterial spot, and late blight are some of the diseases that plague many Minnesota tomato growers due to Minnesota’s climate. To learn more about each of these diseases and how you can recognize them on your tomato plants, you can learn more here: Tomato Diseases . In addition to tomato diseases, you will need to watch for insects that may impact your tomato harvest. Insects to be aware of include: cutworms, flea beetles, Colorado potato beetle, aphids, sap beetles, and tomato hornworms (for more information, start here: Insects and Tomato Plants ) Finally, some common problems you may experience and may have little ability to prevent are: blossom end rot, growth cracks (fruit grows too quickly), catfacing (many causes), leaf roll, sunscald (tomato fruit gets too much sun), and yellow shoulders (top never ripens). You can find more information on these disorders here: Tomato disorders Tomatoes are not hard to grow but do require some specific gardening practices to ensure you can get a lot of fruit that are healthy and tasty. And most gardeners will agree that they are worth all the effort! Reference: University of Minnesota Extension Gardening Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens Photo credits: UMN Extension (1-5), University of Wisconsin Madison Extension (6)

< Back Junior Fall Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The blustery days of fall yield a kaleidoscope of leaves across our Minnesota yards and parks. Have your children ever wondered why these leaves transform to new colors in the fall? Help your child become a Junior Fall Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of why leaves change colors in the fall. Calling all Junior Fall Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are for why leaves convert from the summer color of green to red, orange, yellow, or brown shades as they fall to the ground. Once the clues are known, pull on your coziest sweatshirt and head outside to observe the evidence of fall leaves’ transformation, revealed in trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your observation skills, you can solve the mystery of why leaves are now changed to a new hue. CLUES Have you ever noticed how the leaves on the trees and bushes seem to suddenly turn from green to deep reds, yellows and oranges seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? Most of the year, the special chemical inside of leaves, called chlorophyll, gives leaves their green tint. The chlorophyll helps leaves absorb energy from sunlight during a process called photosynthesis , which converts the energy into sugar to feed the trees or plants. As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues for when leaves will begin to change color: Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. Daylight . From the start of school in early September until now in October, you probably have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. As the trees and plants get less sunlight, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. With less chlorophyll, yellow and orange color pigments replace the green color of summer. Sometimes darker red leaves appear as the sugar produced in the leaves stays in the leaves (instead of feeding the tree), because the tree has stopped its growth for the year. EVIDENCE Venture outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of fall to predict when the leaves will be changing colors: the cooler air at your soccer game requiring a need for your favorite sweater and the sun setting earlier over the horizon of the local lake. What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged the leaves to start transforming? Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south, or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Want to prove that the fall leaves have been changed due to the cooler air and shorter days? Bundle in a warm jacket and take a hike around your yard and neighborhood with your family or friends. Make sure to get outside during daylight as the sun sets earlier so you can accumulate the evidence of the leaves changing colors. Collect as many leaves as possible or help rake your yard. Notice all the beautiful colors! Have a contest : 1. Who gathered the most leaves? 2. Who picked up the most red/yellow/orange/brown leaves? Celebrate the results by making a leaf pile and jumping in it together! Activity : Find your favorite leaf from your collection. With the help of an adult, cut two equally measured squares of wax paper (about 1” larger than your chosen leaf). Insert the leaf between the two wax papers. With an iron on the lowest setting and a cloth over and underneath the wax papers, briefly hold the iron on the top cloth until the wax papers melt together. What a brilliant fall keepsake you have created! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects Read: Goodbye Summer, Hello Autumn by Kenard Pak ISBN: 9781627794152 (Dakota County Library) or buy at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goodbye-Summer-Hello-Autumn-Kenard/dp/1627794158 . A children’s book describing the clues and evidence discussed above for fall leaves. References https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/science-behind-fall-colors#:~:text=Our%20research%20showed%20that%20the,develop%20the%20pigments%20each%20fall. https://www.si.edu/stories/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/historical/annual.html https://journeynorth.org/projects Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1,2,3), Book Jacket (4)

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World Mushrooms – not just for eating anymore. Ren Henry reviews Paul Stamets’ fascinating book about the value that mushrooms bring to the environment. It turns out that mushrooms can help the landscape in ways you probably have never thought about. Paul Stamets Reviewed by Ren Henry What do we use mushrooms for? Mostly we eat them, and that’s about it. Have you ever stopped to think about the other uses for mushrooms? In Paul Stamets’ 2005 book, Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World , the celebrated mycologist explores the various ways mushrooms can be used in the landscape to help remediate various ecological settings. This is what he terms “mycorestoration”. The book is divided into three parts: first explaining how mushrooms grow, then how mycorestoration works, and finally how to grow specific types of mushrooms. Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of the mycelial mat, which intertwines within the soil. Stamets’ view is that the mycelial mat can be used to provide additional nutrients to plants and to more quickly remediate soil after a forest fire. He also provides evidence that some mushroom species are hyper-accumulators of heavy metals and could theoretically be used to clean up waste sites by inoculating the soil with mycelium and harvesting the mushrooms for incineration. He also demonstrates that the use of mycelium when returning old roads to nature speeds up the process significantly. In sum, Stamets’ main point is that the mycelial mat and the mushrooms it produces could be a tool for improving our landscape and remediating ecological disasters in a quick and cost-efficient manner. The book, deals with some technical topics but is easy to read and understand. While somewhat out of date, the website that the text often refers to is still accessible today, with current information. Even sixteen years after publication, the book still has lots to teach about the value that mushrooms can bring to the landscape, even when they aren’t an edible variety. Photo Credit: Ren Henry (1)

< Back Give Your Orchid a Vacation Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Orchids are like school children. They have been cooped up in your house all winter. They have treated you well, stayed healthy, and maybe even treated you to blooms; for that they deserve something special: a vacation! It is easy; you don’t need a travel agent, an airline reservation or even a hotel room: just set them outside. Read this article by avid orchid grower, Paul Wood, to learn how to safely grow your orchids outside in the summer. The orchids in your house are not native to Minnesota so being outside is like a foreign country to them; they need some orientation and acclimation to feel comfortable and really enjoy their vacation. Prime Vacation Time Orchids like to take their vacations most any time after our night-time temperatures stay above 50 degrees. They can stay on vacation until the temperatures start dipping below 50 at night. Accommodations For the most part, when you put your orchids outside, they should be in dappled light. Putting an orchid that has been inside all winter into direct sunlight will burn its leaves. This is particularly true if you have Phalaenopsis (Phal) because they grow in the lower story of the forests so they don’t get a lot of light even in nature. The dappled light comes in many forms. My orchids spend the summer on the back deck in the shade of a birch tree and do quite well. There are pot clips you can buy for ceramic pots that allow you to hang the orchids right in the tree. If you don’t have a shady spot, you can use shade cloth to protect your orchids. The level of shade depends on the orchid, but for Phals it is 70-80%. You can build a supporting structure for the cloth, but if you have a pergola you are ready to go. Some orchids like Cattleyas, Dendrobiums or Oncidiums prefer more light than a Phal, but that doesn’t mean direct sun light. Bright diffused light is called for. Be sure to harden them off before leaving them in the brighter light. Spa Treatments Orchids, like any other plant, are subject to pests and disease. While your orchids are outside, it is a great time to give them “spa treatments” to keep them healthy. You won’t find orchid specific pesticides, but any pesticide that can be used on tropical plants will be OK for your orchids. Systemic pesticides are best for sucking pests. Safari ®, Malathion ® or Imidacloprid work extremely well. Mix them with water and soak the roots. Both Safari and the chemical Imidacloprid are neonicotinoids, but there are no pollinators visiting your orchids so from that perspective they are safe to use. Horticultural oil can be used for scale as well. Fungicides are best applied when the orchids enter the spa. The copper-based fungicides or a fungicide with chlorothalonil as the active ingredient work well. Remember that fungicides are preventative, not curative, so prevention is key. There are more natural solutions to pest control than what I noted above. These are best used when the orchids return from vacation. Libation Station What is a vacation without some libation! When your orchids are outside you need to continue to water and fertilize them, but you also need to consider the weather conditions. If it has been hot and dry, they might need to be watered more than once a week, particularly if they are in a small pot. Conversely, if it has been hot and humid or very rainy, you might want to hold back on the watering. Under hot conditions, they enjoy a misting to cool their leaves. Orchids prefer their libations straight up, they don’t like mixes such as chlorine or pH increasers (e.g. city water). Watering from your rain barrel or using RO water will go a long way towards keep your orchids healthy. In summary, don’t be afraid to move your orchids outside in the summer; just be sure to keep them shaded and out of direct sun. While on vacation they still need to be watered and fertilized, just be cognizant of the local weather conditions. While they are outside, use this time to treat them with pesticides to keep them healthy and pest free. Treating them also lessens the chance of bringing pests indoors when the vacation time must come to an end and they return to their job of being a flowering indoor plant for your enjoyment. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! References: How To Care For Orchids Outdoors - Everyday Orchids Heat Stress ( aos.org ) Outdoor Orchid Care - American Orchid Society ( aos.org ) Photo credits: www.justaddiceorchids.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Try the Many Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener In the featured vegetable section of this newsletter, you read about how to grow Swiss Chard. In this article, you will learn about the many delicious ways that you can include Chard in your dinner menus. There are so many ways to enjoy this beautiful garden vegetable. Swiss Chard (Chard) is a green leafy vegetable that has multiple health benefits, in addition to being very tasty. It is best eaten fresh, but can be frozen. Chard can be stored up to 2 or 3 weeks in the refrigerator but is best eaten within 2 to 3 days. Chard can be eaten raw or cooked. When eaten raw, it is usually best to select the younger, smaller leaves. These can be included in salads, much like you would add spinach. Other common ways of eating raw Chard are in sandwiches, wraps, and smoothies. The University of Nebraska Extension provides this nice list of different ways you could use Chard. Top 10 Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard One‐Pot Dish: Dinner couldn’t be easier with one pot stir fry featuring Swiss Chard. Ravioli filled with Swiss Chard, part ricotta, and a touch of parmesan cheese. Finish your your favorite sauce. Scrambled eggs or omelets: replace spinach with Swiss Chard. Add fresh tomato for a burst of flavor. Soup. Whether it’s minestrone, beef barley, or vegetable, Swiss Chard makes a scrumptious addition to any soup. Pasta: Layer Swiss Chard in your lasagna or toss if with pasta in a light olive oil and lemon sauce. Finish with freshly cracked pepper. Quiche. Substitute Swiss Chard for spinach in your favorite quiche recipe. It pairs beautifully with egg whites and a little pancetta. Stir Fry. For extra nutrition and flavor, add fresh Swiss Chard to stir fried brown rice just before serving. Stew. Try adding Swiss Chard to stews. It boasts an elegant balance of sweet and savory. Pizza. Swiss Chard makes a delicious … and unexpected … pizza topping. Try adding it to your pizza marinara sauce. Steamed. Steam the stalks of Swiss chard and eat them as you would asparagus. Very Simple Swiss Chard Cooking Preparation (basically steaming) Place Swiss Chard in a pan Add a small amount of water Cook on medium heat until wilted and stalks are soft Eat with butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Variations: Instead of water, use olive oil. Add garlic to taste (most recipes suggest 2-3 cloves, minced) Salt and pepper Red pepper flakes Juice of a ½ a lemon The University of Purdue Extension has a delicious recipe that uses another favorite vegetable I wrote about earlier this year, the Sweet Potato. It also features black beans. Sweet Potato and Black Bean Stew with Swiss Chard This hearty main dish combines the sweetness of orange sweet potatoes and the robustness of black beans, with the surprise addition of Swiss chard and a light touch of cumin. Serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous for a warm delight! Recipe adapted from the What’s Cooking? USDA Mixing Bowl Website ( https://www.whatscooking.fns.usda.gov/ ) . Prep 20 min Cook 40 min Total Time 60 min Servings: 6 Ingredients 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 small whole, dried New Mexican chili pepper 1 1/4 cups fresh onion (diced) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 1/2 cups fresh sweet potatoes (peeled and cut into half-inch cubes) 6 cups (about 3 cans) low-sodium black beans (drained and rinsed) 3/4 cup orange juice 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 4 cups fresh Swiss chard (stems removed and chopped) Directions 1. Dice onion. 2. In a large pot, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add onion and whole chili pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes. 3. Add cumin and cook for 2 minutes. 4. Add sweet potatoes, black beans, orange juice, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then cover, and reduce heat to low. 5. Simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 20 minutes). 6. Remove chili pepper and discard. 7. Add vinegar, salt, and pepper. 8. Add Swiss chard, cover, and continue cooking until chard is tender. Serve hot. 9. May serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous. Nutrition Information Serving Size: 1 cup Nutrients Amount Total Calories: 222 Protein: 10g Carbohydrates: 43g Dietary Fiber: 12g Total Fat: 4g Photo Credit: Chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (1)

< Back Overwinter Geraniums the Correct Way As the end of the growing season appears it may be sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end. Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s never too early to start thinking about final garden projects as we near the end of our growing season. Sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end? Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Overwintered geraniums are an early memory of mine. I distinctly remember running down the basement stairs of my grandparent’s home and being struck with the scent of the potted geraniums, lined up across the west facing window; the vibrant colors, a welcome contrast to the bright white winter landscape outside. There are two main ways to overwinter your geraniums, both of which need to be done before the first frost: Potted While my grandparents chose to keep tending to their geraniums through the winter months in their original pots, you might keep your geraniums in planters or heavy pots that would be impossible to move indoors. If you want to keep the plants potted, you can transplant them into smaller indoor pots by carefully digging up the root ball, and replanting into the pot of your choice. Before bringing the plant indoors, check for any pests trying to hitch a ride and remove any dead leaves. Now is also a good time to trim back any dead stems. Place your potted plant in front of a bright window or under florescent lights, and water every 1-2 weeks once the top of the soil dries out. Bare Root The enemy of the bare rooted geranium is moisture. That said, you have two options when you are ready to pull your geraniums in for the winter: 1) you can wait for the soil to dry out before digging up the root ball, or 2) you can dig the root ball out of the soil, tapping off any remaining dirt and then let your plant sit out for a day or so to ensure that all excess moisture has evaporated. As with your potted geranium option, be sure to inspect your plant for any pests and cut away any dead leaves, buds or flowers. The objective for this overwintering method is to encourage the plant into dormancy and not spend any energy into supporting existing or new growth. You also have a few housing options for your plant: 1) paper bag (think landscape or grocery), 2) cardboard box or 3) tied up at the root to hang upside down. Each of these options ensures good ventilation which is critical to help ward off excess moisture and darkness, which will lull the plant into dormancy. Place your bag or box in a cool dry location such as a basement, root cellar or shed – anywhere where temperatures will remain around 55-65 degrees. Check on your plant about once a month to inspect for mold or other disease and manage as needed. Getting Ready for Spring – Breaking Dormancy About 6-8 weeks before the last frost day, inspect your plants and trim them back by one-half to two-thirds. Don’t be alarmed if your plant has lost many or all of its leaves. Plant the geranium in a pot, give it a good watering and set it in front of a bright window. Patience and care should generate the first signs of growth in the coming days and weeks and by time the risk of frost has passed, you’ll be weeks ahead of any store-bought geraniums available to gardeners. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back How to Avoid Problems When Gardening on your Deck Gardening on your deck or patio provides a number of benefits. It enables those in a multi-unit building an opportunity to grow plants outdoors. It provides an opportunity for those with physical limitations to garden. Growing plants on your deck or patio is a strategy for adding beauty and it might provide an opportunity to grow edibles near your kitchen. But gardening on a deck or patio does present its own potential problems. Read this article to learn how to avoid problems and how to deal with them if they occur. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Just as there are potential issues to consider when planting in the ground, there are ones that might reduce your potential to have a successful container garden outdoors. Limited Space Not all plants are appropriate for growing in a container. Since most decks or patios have limited space, you want to avoid plants that require a lot of ground space. Consider plants that can grow along trellises or can hang over the edges of your container. Select plants that are recommended for pots and therefore will fit better into small spaces. When buying plants, think about the size when they have been with you for a period of time . . . not the size at the time of purchase. Getting Adequate Sun The direction your deck faces is only one factor to consider when determining how much sun light the plants will receive. In addition, watch for trees or other structures that might obstruct the sun. Remember that the sun’s path changes as we move from spring to summer to autumn. So, trees and overhangs will have a different impact at different times in the growing season. Prevent Other Environmental Factors from Negatively Impacting Plants Heat might be a bigger factor when growing in pots. Darker pots absorb the sun’s rays causing the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly. Consider using lighter colored pots if you are noting that your plants are requiring frequent watering. Also watering your plants mid-day can cool your plants. Consider the impact of wind on your plants and on the pots in which you are growing. If your deck is higher in your building or in a location that is exposed to significant wind there are several things you might consider. · Use clay pots instead of plastic pots since they are heavier. · Select plants that are less susceptible to the wind. The following are characteristics of plants that will more readily survive in windy conditions: o Shorter plants; o Plants with smaller and narrower leaves that would be less likely to be damaged by wind; o Plants with larger root systems that more effectively anchor the plant; and o Plants that like drier conditions since the wind will dry out the soil more quickly. Beware of Pests Pests can find plants even if they are not in the ground. Different pests can be found in the soil of your container, on the exterior of the container or on the plants themselves. Many of these pests may be a nuisance but will not cause permanent damage to your plant. The University of Minnesota Extension’s Yard and Garden website is an excellent source to help identify the specific pests that are impacting your plant and to determine how to address them. Photo credits: Scaniazblogspot.com (all creative commons) (1), www.Kittlingbooks.com (all creative commons) (2)