< Back Garden Myths Exposed Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In the Garden Buzz, we support research-based information from reliable sources like the Minnesota and other state Extension Services, all of which are supported by the research universities in their state. Departments of Natural Resources, which also exist in every state, are another reliable source of science-based information. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. MOTHBALLS KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE GARDEN False - Through a process called sublimation, mothballs slowly convert from a solid into a gas that repels moths, not rabbits or other undesirable wildlife. Using mothballs in a way not specified by the label is also illegal and can harm people, pets, and the environment. PLACING GRAVEL OR POT SHARDS IN THE BOTTOM OF A PLANT CONTAINER WILL INCREASE DRAINAGE False - Rocks or shards in the bottom of pots can block or restrict water drainage because they reduce the size of the drainage hole. Water has difficulty moving from fine-grained soil (such as potting mix) to coarser material (such as gravel or pot shards). The water must saturate the fine-grained material before moving on. The best course is to fill the entire pot with high-quality planting mix. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) LAWNS ARE LOW MAINTENCE False - Lawns are maintenance hogs. To keep your lawn looking good, you must water, mow, fertilize, edge, aerate, and weed. And that's just the beginning. You will also need to trap underground varmints, repair sprinkler heads, (assuming you have a sprinkler system - worse if you don’t - hauling out the hose and repositioning your sprinkler is time consuming and guaranteed to drench you) and seed or patch bare spots. That sound you hear? It's your shrubs laughing at all the time you spend babying that water-guzzling grass. Moral: plant more shrubs or replace your grass with ground cover. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) CRACKING AN EGG UNDER YOUR TOMATO PLANT SUPPLIES NEEDED NUTRIENTS Maybe but not the best practice - Some people bury whole eggs or crushed eggshells in the soil when planting tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. The theory is that the eggs provide extra calcium to the plants. While some gardeners swear by this method, scientific evidence does not support its effectiveness. While the calcium from eggshells will eventually leach into the soil, it may take some time to break down completely. Whole eggs buried in the soil could also attract pests like rodents or raccoons who may dig up your plants to access the eggs . Instead, focus on overall soil health. Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and beneficial microbes, will provide a much more consistent and reliable source of nutrients for your tomato plants. (University of Minnesota Extension; University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) SOAP WILL KILL GARDEN PESTS True and false - Dish soap can kill small, soft-bodied insects like aphids and white flies but does nothing for insects with hard shells, like Japanese beetles. To be effective, the soapy water needs to not only to touch the insect but also coat the insect's body. This means turning over leaves to reach insects on the underside of leaves. (MN Extension Service; Colorado State University Extension) aphids on underside of leaves Mole crickets and caterpillars hide deep in turf and are difficult to detect. Drenching a small area of turf with soapy water can irritate the pests and cause them to temporarily surface where they can be identified, counted and treated. (Source: FL Extension Service) ADDING COFFEE GROUNDS TO YOUR SOIL HELPS ACIDIFY IT False - Fresh coffee grounds are acidic, but used coffee grounds are not. They're neutral. Therefore, adding your used coffee grounds won't change your soil pH. A better idea is to add used grounds to the compost pile. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) WILTING LEAVES ALWAYS INDICATE THAT A PLANT NEEDS WATER False – There are other reasons that plant leaves wilt, so it’s worth exploring other causes before soaking your plant in water. In fact, wilting leaves could be due to waterlogged soil (which deprives roots of oxygen). Overly moist soil can also promote fungal disease. Certain bacteria may also cause leaf wilt. Another reason leaves wilt is animal damage to the roots. Gophers and nematodes feed on roots. Other animals may create tunnels under your plants that reduce root contract with the soil. Additional reasons for wilting leaves are over fertilizing or excess salt in the soil. (University of Minnesota Extension, University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) GRASS CLIPPINGS LEFT ON THE LAWN CAUSE THATCH False - Thatch is a layer of grass stems and roots, living and dead organic matter that settles on the grass or ground. Excessive thatch, over a half-inch thick, creates an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots. They cause the lawn to grow very rapidly, inhibiting the decomposition of organic matter at ground level. Lawn clippings are often erroneously blamed for thatch buildup. Lawn clippings are very high in water content and rapidly break down. Overwatering and over-fertilizing have more to do with the buildup of thatch. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) MEXICAN PETUNIA IS INVASIVE: DON’T PLANT IT! Maybe - It is true that native Mexican petunia is invasive and nearly impossible to get rid of once it invades. However, three non-invasive cultivars have been developed by the University of Florida and are sold as cultivars 'Mayan Purple’, 'Mayan White' and 'Mayan Pink’. And the sterile cultivar ‘Purple Showers’, taller and larger than its invasive relative, is available at big box stores. (Source: FL Extension Service) Note : All these cultivars are treated as annuals in Minnesota. In conclusion, when you come across advice that is not footnoted, or comes from a dubious source, it is always worth checking with your local extension service or a reliable research source. That will save you time, effort and money if the advice you have received turns out to be a myth. Click here for the University of Minnesota Extension website. References “Coming Clean on Soap in the Garden, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/coming-clean-soap-garden . “Living with Nature and Nuisance Animal,” https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/livingwith_wildlife/index.html “Managing Mexican Petunia (Ruellia Simplex C. Wright) in the Home Landscape,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP498 “Managing Plant Pests with Soaps,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1248 “Mothballs: Regulation, Proper Uses, and Alternatives;” National Pesticide Information Center, http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/regulation.html University of Minnesota Extension; https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Becky Peterson, “Cracking an egg under a tomato plant.” Ms. Peterson is a Dakota County Master Gardener. UC Marin Master Gardeners; https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/GARDEN_MYTHS_BUSTED/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,4), www.invasive.org (3)

< Back Delectable Strawberry Shortcake (and a Bonus Rosemary Recipe) Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. One of the most popular fruits that are ripening now is strawberries. Joy Johnson offers a mouthwatering recipe for strawberry shortcake. And – a repeat of a former favorite rosemary recipe. What a great time of year for eating fresh food in Minnesota! It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. I had doubled the size of my vegetable garden this spring and am enjoying even more abundance of fresh fruits and veggies. Unfortunately, last year’s torrential rains wiped out my raspberry and strawberry patch, so I don’t have any of my own berries this year. I am thankful so many people share their bounty at local farmers markets because one of my all-time favorites is strawberry shortcake. Here is a recipe for whole wheat shortcakes, they are heartier than the lightweight store-bought chiffon cakes. I prefer them and enjoy serving them in a bowl and adding a little almond milk to the bottom for the short cake to soak up. Since I planted blueberry bushes last spring, I enjoy a sprinkling of those on top of the whipped cream. You can never have too many berries! Strawberry Shortcakes Ingredients: 1-quart strawberries, cored and sliced 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup shortening 2 cups white whole wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup almond milk Sweetened Whipped Cream Process: Mix strawberries with 1 cup sugar; let stand 1 hour. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut shortening into flour, 2 T. sugar, the baking powder and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in milk just until blended Gently smooth dough into a ball on lightly floured board. Knead a bit, until it’s well combined, but not sticky Roll out gently to about ½ inch thick Fold the dough over on itself and gently roll out again just to loosely stick the folded dough together. Cut with a knife or biscuit cutter into rounds or squares. Place about 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Split apart while still warm, stack in a bowl with strawberries and whipped cream I met one of our new Master Gardener interns while working on a project team a couple weeks ago. We, of course, got to chatting about food and using herbs we grow. She requested a reprinting of my recipe for Rosemary Shortbread, since she wasn’t a Master Gardener when this recipe was first published in the Garden Buzz years ago. The Rosemary shortbread is a mouth-watering treat and definitely worth repeating. I hope you all enjoy it. Rosemary Shortbread Ingredients: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon plus 1 pinch kosher salt 1 cup unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks 1-2 teaspoons rosemary, chestnut or other dark, full-flavored honey Process: Heat oven to 325 degrees In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar, rosemary and salt. Add butter and honey and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don’t overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 9-inch baking dish. Prick all over with a fork. Bake until gold brown, 35-40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares, bars or wedges while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1), pixabay.com (2)

< Back Greek Artichoke Salad Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Get your early lettuce on the table with other yummy vegetables in this recipe for Greek artichoke salad. Add some baking powder biscuits and you have dinner. Lettuce is easy to grow and so fun to pick fresh right before mealtime. Cucumbers might not be quite ready yet, that depends on how early you got them in the ground. If you have early tomatoes and possibly a young pepper, try this fresh take on a Greek inspired salad. Greek Artichoke Salad Ingredients: 1 (14.75-ounce) jar artichoke hearts, drained and quartered 1 large cucumber, halved and sliced 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges 1 orange or yellow bell pepper, seeded and cubed 1 small red onion, halved and sliced 1 (2.25-ounce) can sliced black olives, drained ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 Teaspoons Italian seasoning Lettuce – use a variety of whatever is growing in my garden. Romaine is good along with lighter textured lettuces 1 (4-ounce) container crumbled feta cheese Preparation: In large bowl, combine artichoke hearts, cucumber, tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, and olives. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, and Italian seasoning. Drizzle dressing evenly over vegetables in the larger bowl. Cover and gently toss. Allow the veggies to marinate in the refrigerator for 30-60 minutes. Wash the lettuce, pat, or spin dry. On each plate, top a heap of lettuce with lots of the marinated veggies, use some of the marinade as dressing if you’d like more. Top with crumbled feta. If you’re eating light these days, the salad may be enough, but if it’s cool and rainy or you just need a little something more with your salad, here is a basic biscuit that I’ve been making for many years. They always turn out light and flaky due to three tricks: 1) make sure you cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until it’s a really fine texture; 2) make sure to knead the dough gently 10 times and; 3) roll the dough out until it’s ¼ inch thick and then fold it in half. Lightly roll it 2-3 passes before cutting out your biscuits. Baking Powder Biscuits Ingredients: 1/3 cup shortening 1 ¾ cups all -purpose flour (you can substitute up to ½ of the total quantity of flour with whole wheat flour) ¾ teaspoon salt Process: Heat oven to 450. Cut shortening into flour, baking powder and salt with pastry blender until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in just enough milk so dough leaves side of bowl and rounds up into a ball. (Too much milk makes dough sticky, not enough makes biscuits dry.) Turn dough onto lightly floured surface. Knead lightly 10 times. Roll ¼ inch thick, fold in half and gently roll again. Cut with floured 2-inch biscuit cutter. Place on ungreased cookie sheet about 1 inch apart for crusty sides, touching for soft sides. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Immediately remove from cookie sheet to a cooling rack. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses from your garden fruits and vegetables. With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses with your garden fruits and vegetables. Why Safety Tips are Needed Foodborne illness caused by the naturally occurring bacteria, viruses, molds and/or pathogens found on raw produce not carefully washed or prepared can make you sick. (Note: These microorganisms are present in your garden whether you choose to use organic or conventional gardening methods). Additionally, it is also possible to get sick from contamination of produce from chemicals, such as cleaning solutions, fertilizers, pesticides, and heavy metals (lead) and other chemicals that may be found in garden soil or well water. Safely Growing and Harvesting Produce in Your Garden Site Preparation Locate your produce gardens away from manure piles, well caps, garbage cans, septic systems and areas where wildlife or the family pets roam. Use compost safely. Compost is the natural breakdown of organic materials, and also a source of pathogens. To be safe for gardening, your compost must reach a temperature of at least 130°F. Check the temperature with a compost thermometer. Do not use any animal waste, including pet waste, meat scraps or dairy product waste, in your compost bin. Garden Maintenance Use a safe water source, such as from municipal or public water systems. Avoid lakes, streams, ponds and streams as a water source, where they can be polluted by human sewage or animal waste, fertilizers and pesticides from lawns and farm fields, or chemicals from industry. Ground water, the source for well water, is less likely to have microbial contaminants, but test your well water yearly to ensure it is safe. Curtail animals and birds near your vegetation during the gardening season, by keeping pets away, minimizing vegetation at the edges to decrease nesting and hiding places for rats and mice, and stopping feeding of wild animals and birds near your produce garden. Discourage your backyard critters with the use of fencing and noise deterrents. Harvesting Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to set your harvest in. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade. Use clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) when picking produce. Do not harvest when you are sick or have symptoms of an illness. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing produce into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce, and discard the produce that is close to these signs, or that has visible animal feces on it. Storage If you choose to wash fruits and vegetables before storing, be sure to dry them thoroughly with a clean paper towel. (Never wash berries until you are ready to eat them.) If you choose to store without washing, shake, rub or brush off any garden dirt with a paper towel or soft brush while still outside. Store unwashed produce in plastic bags or containers. Keep fruit and vegetable bins clean. When washing produce fresh from the warm outdoors, the rinse water should not be more than 10 degrees colder than the produce. If you are washing refrigerated produce, use cold water. Fruits and vegetables needing refrigeration can be stored at 40° F or less. Fruits and vegetables stored at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes) should be in a cool, dry, pest-free, well-ventilated area separate from household chemicals. Canning and Preserving: Follow the USDA guidelines and jar instructions for safe canning: https://nchfp.uga.edu Serving Always wash your hands before serving. Always wash your produce before eating. Rinse fresh fruits and vegetables under cool, running, clean water, even if you do not plan to eat the skin or rind. Never use soap, detergent, or bleach solution to wash fresh fruits or vegetables. These solutions can affect flavor and may not be safe to ingest. Most root vegetables will need to be washed (before going into the kitchen) to remove sand and soil. Use a clean bucket or spray table outside to spray or dunk the produce to remove soil. Avoid bringing the produce into your home kitchen before using, as there is more potential for cross-contamination. Avoid cross-contamination when preparing fruits and vegetables, which occurs when a clean work surface, such as a cutting board or utensil (paring knife) or uncontaminated food is contaminated by dirty work surfaces, utensils, hands or food. If you have leftover produce that has been cut, sliced, or cooked, store it in clean, air-tight containers in the refrigerator at 40°F or less. Fresh, home-grown vegetables and fruit can be a delicious pleasure. Follow these simple rules to make sure they are also safe for you and your family to enjoy. Sources: https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/manual/five-steps-food-safe-fruit-vegetable-gardening/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/harvest-your-garden-produce-safely Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Seed Bombs - An Explosion of Color Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The calendar has turned to March and the excitement builds in anticipation for Spring, but wait, I can’t plant seeds outside yet. Don’t worry, DIY seed bombs are a great way to get your hands dirty and also introduce your children and grandchildren to a way of transforming a barren or hard to grow area of your yard into a beautiful flower spot. Seed bombs date back to the 1930’s when Masanobu Fukuoka, a Japanese microbiologist had many areas of his farm that were overgrown with weeds. He created seeds bombs and spread them throughout his farming land and found this to be an effective way of farming and eco-friendly as well. Urban settings also utilized seed bombs in the 1960’s and 1970’s when they were used to clean up urban neighborhoods and create “green spaces”. Seed bombs are great gift for family and friends as well. What is a Seed Bomb and How Do We Make Our Own? Seed bombs are a combination of seeds, clay and compost placed together to be placed or thrown in areas that need beautifying. The clay mixture protects the seeds from creatures that would eat it (ex. insects and birds) and the compost provides the nutrients for the seeds to germinate and grow. What You Need : Powdered Clay (can be found at craft stores or on-line or air-dry clay) Potting Soil or Compost Native/Local Wildflower Seeds (not all seeds will germinate so use a variety of native, non-invasive wildflower seeds) Water Container for Mixing Let’s Make Seed Bombs : Mix All Ingredients – 1 Cup Seeds 5 Cups of Soil or Compost 2-3 Cups of Clay Powder (Air Clay can also be used, but adjustments as to the amount of clay may be needed. Slowly mix in water with your hands until everything sticks together, then roll mixture into firm balls. Balls can also be formed into fun shapes like hearts or stars too. Place seed bombs in an area to dry. Once seed balls are dry and the weather is warm enough then it is time to plant the seed bombs. Plant your seed bombs by throwing them at bare spots of your garden and wait to see what pops up! Photo Credit: en.permawiki.org (1), www.pexels.com (2,5), flickr.com (3), University of MN Extension (4)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Growing Ginger Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Read this article to learn the steps to grow ginger successfully. Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Here are the steps to grow ginger: Choose the right ginger: You can buy ginger roots from the grocery store or garden center. Look for pieces that are plump, with firm skin, and have several eye buds, which are small yellowish tips on the surface of the ginger. Prepare the soil: Ginger prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the ginger: Cut the ginger into small pieces, making sure each piece has at least one eye bud. Plant each piece about 2 inches deep, with the eye facing up, and space them about 6 inches apart. Water regularly: Ginger needs to be watered regularly, but make sure not to overwater it as it can cause the root to rot. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide warm temperatures: Ginger grows best in warm temperatures. Ideally, the temperature should be between 70 - 80 °F during the day and 60 -70°F at night. Provide shaded light: Ginger prefers partial shade and indirect sunlight. If growing indoors, place the ginger in a bright room with indirect sunlight. Harvest ginger: Ginger takes about 8 – 10 months to mature. Once the stems begin to turn yellow and die, it is time to harvest. Carefully dig up the ginger roots without damaging them. By following these steps, you can grow delicious ginger at home! Photo Credit: www.flavorexplosions.com (all creative commons)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back Cooking with Frozen Vegetables (And a St. Patrick’s Day Nod) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s not too early to order seeds for your vegetable garden this summer but first, you need to use up all those vegetables left over from last summer that are sitting in your freezer. Joy Johnson’s Minestrone soup will help you do just that. Add some Irish soda bread for a great St. Patrick’s Day meal. The ground is still frozen in Dakota County and I don’t have anything growing in my garden. However, I have received some seed catalogs already and I’ve even seen a rack of seed packets for sale at the store. You may be thinking about starting some vegetable plants early indoors. It’s always so fun to see the little seedlings sprout. I just realized that if I’m going to grow more vegetables this year, I need to clean out my freezer and use all the ones I froze last year. I have been using my frozen produce all winter long, see my past recipes! But I do still have a variety of veggies in my freezer. I like to cook in large batches so I have food to share with other family members, or just so I don’t have to cook for a few days, and we can live on leftovers. I have a recipe that I’ve been making for years that uses my frozen veggie stash and makes plenty to share. A bonus – everyone who has eaten it has loved it. The recipe is flexible, so if you don’t have one of the veggies, or you want to add in something that is not listed, feel free to experiment. This recipe is from The Saint Paul Farmers Market Produce Cookbook. Minestrone Soup 6 cups beef broth 1 (15 oz.) can great northern, cannellini or lima beans 1 large potato, peeled and dices 2 carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 white or yellow onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 ½ cups green cabbage, chopped 1 cup zucchini, cubed 1 cup green beans, cut in 1-inch lengths ½ lb. spinach or Swiss chard, chopped 3 cups Italian plum tomatoes, chopped ½ cup small shell macaroni or other pasta, uncooked ½ tsp each dried oregano and rosemary (or 1 tsp. each, fresh or frozen, chopped) 1 tsp dried basil (or 2 tsp fresh or frozen chopped) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Grated Parmesan cheese In a large stockpot, bring beef broth to a boil. Add cannellini beans, potato, carrots and celery. Simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes. (If using frozen peppers, no need to sauté). Add to broth mixture and simmer another 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini, green beans, and spinach or Swiss chard. Simmer 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, pasta, oregano, rosemary, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer another 15 minutes or until pasta is cooked. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Makes 15 servings. A bread that goes well with Minestrone, and gives a nod to Saint Patrick’s Day, is Irish Soda Bread. The recipe that I’m sharing with you here is an authentic Irish recipe. My elderly neighbor who is 100% Irish has verified that it is a true Irish soda bread because it has raisins and caraway seeds. Irish Soda Bread 3 ½ cups flour 2/3 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 ½ cup raisins Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl mix together these wet ingredients: 1 1/3 cups buttermilk 2 eggs beaten 4 Tbsp melted butter ½ tsp vanilla 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 Tbsp carraway seeds Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. I use an actual Irish soda bread pan, it’s like a 9” round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons (1) & Flickr (2)

< Back Companion Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener It’s April and we are starting or continuing to plan our gardens for the new season. Most of us consider the amount of sunlight we need, flower size and color and, probably, our favorite plants. But many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other - “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Read this article to learn more about why and how to use companion planting in your garden. As plans are being prepared for our gardens, most of us think about the layout, considering each plant type separately. The planning generally looks at the amount of space needed and the amount of sunlight required by the plant as decisions are made about where to position plants. However, many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other, a concept referred to as “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Companion planting is not a new concept. It is a tool used in organic gardening and has been used historically by indigenous people. Research has identified varying results regarding the benefits of specific companion plantings. There is only anecdotal evidence of the benefits of overall companion planting. But there are numerous reputable articles on how to incorporate the concept into our gardens. In this article I will identify six potential benefits of companion gardening, using a relatively broad definition of companion gardening. 1. Repelling Pests Consider planting plants that repel pests next to plants that the pests target. According to an article in the University of Arizona Agriculture and Life Sciences Cooperative Extension site: One of the most accepted wisdoms of companion planting is the use of repellant plants to keep bothersome insects away from their favorite vegetable plants. Insects locate their favorite plants through smell and many repellant plants work by masking the scent of their neighbor plants. That is why strong-smelling plants such as basil, onions, garlic, and marigolds are good reliant plants. [1] 2. Attracting Beneficial Insects Conversely, companion planting might be used to attract beneficial insects. The best example of this is the suggestion that a gardener plant flowers that will attract pollinators next to vegetable that will benefit from these insects. Companion planting can also be used to attract insects that will feed on destructive insects. For example one might grow plants, such as carrots, to attract lady bugs that will feed on aphids that might attack your plants. 3. Growing Sacrificial Plants A sacrificial crop is a plant that you add to your garden to attract pests away from the main crop you are growing. The reasoning is that garden pests have preferences for what they like to live on or eat. By planting rows of sacrificial plants near your preferred vegetables, the pests will be attracted to these plants and leave your “preferred plants” alone. 4. Enhancing the Taste of Edible Plants Many people believe that planting herbs such as basil, dill, oregano or marjoram next to tomatoes and peppers may enhance the sweetness of these vegetables . . . and they also add beauty to your garden. 5. Supporting the Growing Needs of Surrounding Plants The growing characteristics of one plant can be used to benefit surrounding plants. For example, plants that grow tall or are supported by trellises can provide shade to plants that prefer limited sunlight. Vining plants and plants with large leaves that cover the ground can reduce weed growth and help retain soil moisture. 6. Promoting Maximum Use of Garden Space In this example of companion planting, you’re considering how to enhance the production of your garden as a whole. By intercropping plants in spaces left when one crop is done producing you can increase the production from a limited space. Radishes mature quickly and do well in cooler weather so they can be planted in the spring. When they are harvested, plants that prefer warmer weather can be planted. And when those plants are done producing, another crop of radishes can be planted in late summer. This is a link to a chart developed by Todd Weinmann of North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension that provides an extensive list of plants that you might consider growing near each other and plants that have the potential to negatively impact the growth of certain plants and therefore should not be planted in close proximity. [1] The Best of Enemies: A Brief Guide to Companion Planting - Part 2, https://cals.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/best-enemies-brief-guide-companion-planting-part-2 Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Linda Stein (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Cooking with Native Plants Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. This time of year, Master Gardener Joy Johnson thought you might enjoy trying some recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures – Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding, Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds. Yum! It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. I thought you would enjoy trying a couple of recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures. Several Native American cultures consider wild rice to be a sacred component in their culture. The rice is harvested with a canoe: one person “knocks” rice into the canoe with two small poles (called “knockers” or “flails”) while the other paddles slowly or uses a push pole. For these groups, this harvest is an important cultural (and often economic) event. Commercial cultivation began in the late 1900’s in California and Minnesota. Wild rice has a delicious nutty, hearty flavor and a chewy texture. Today it is mainly cultivated in paddy fields, although I’ve seen traditional harvesting areas in northern Minnesota. Wild rice is primarily a source of carbohydrates and contains a moderately high amount of fiber. It also contains a variety of vitamins (Folate, B2 and B6 are the top 3) and minerals (Copper, Zinc and Magnesium are the top 3). Compared to white rice, wild rice is lower in calories, higher in fiber, sugars, fat and protein as well as Omega-3 and Omega-6. [insert photo 1] Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding Ingredients : Wild Rice part: 4 cups water 1 cup Chippewa wild rice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla extract Blueberry Mixture: 1 cup blueberries, dried 2 qts Milk 2 Tbsp vanilla extract 16 eggs warmed to room temperature 2 cups sugar Dash freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Instructions for the Wild Rice part : Wash the Chippewa wild rice Put the water, wild rice, vanilla, and salt in a two-quart saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for 45-60 minutes. Simmer with the cover on and stop when you notice the rice is puffy and the liquid has been completely absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue cooking with the lid off until any excess liquid evaporates. Set aside. Instructions for the Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding : Oil a large baking pan (13” x 9”) Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare blueberries by pouring enough boiling water over them to cover them and let them soak for five minutes. Place the cooked wild rice and blueberries in the oiled baking pan. Heat the milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat, until the milk is scalded. Mix the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl at high speed until the mixture is foamy. Whisk the scalded milk into the eggs until thoroughly blended. Pour the mixture on top of the rice and blueberries and stir it very carefully just until blended. Top with nutmeg as desired. Place it in the oven and bake it for 1 ¼ hours, or until edges are golden brown. Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin Pumpkins are actually considered a fruit, not a vegetable, and belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers, melons, squash, and gourds. They did not always appear as they appear today. They resembled something like the Crooked-neck squash of today. Native Americans called pumpkins “isqoutm squash” and used them as a staple in their diets centuries before the Pilgrims landed. A non-food use was drying strips of pumpkin, pounding it flat, then weaving it into mats. They would roast long strips of pumpkin and seeds on the open fire, or it could be boiled, baked and eaten. It could be easily stored and dried for extended use through the long winters. Pumpkins were used to feed livestock and still are. When my family lived on the farm, every November we would haul our trailer to the pumpkin farm down the road and load up all their unsold, old, damaged pumpkins and feed them to our pigs. That pork was tender, delicious and low fat with a slight hint of pumpkin flavor. Ingredients: 1 small pumpkin (use a pie pumpkin, like Baby Bear, Cinderella or Dickenson; this is the pumpkin that Libby uses for its canned pumpkin) ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup apple cider ¼ cup butter, melted Instructions for the Pumpkin : Preheat oven to 350 degrees Place whole pumpkin in oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours Remove pumpkin from oven Keep the oven on and maintain 350-degree temperature. Cut a hole in the top and remove it Scoop out the seeds Set seeds aside for later eating Scoop out the pulp into a large bowl Add the maple syrup and apple cider to the pulp, mix well Pour back into pumpkin shell Bake for 35-40 minutes Cut into wedges and serve Instructions for the pumpkin seeds : Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Wash the seeds well Spread evenly, without layering them, onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt Back, checking often until seeds are dried Remove from oven and serve Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Chow Mein – A Vegetable “Left-Overs” Recipe Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is a prolific vegetable grower. She has found this recipe for Chow Mein not only delicious but helpful in making use of the abundant vegetables in her cupboards. Whether using your own vegetable stash or those purchased at the grocery store, you will enjoy this recipe! Are you buried in vegetables from your garden? Like me, can you not bear to weed out plants or seedlings? I am always sure that everything will fit in the garden and that not everything will grow and produce. I am usually wrong on both counts! I have a very full garden with the raspberries hanging over the broccoli and the beets, the cucumbers growing on the fence because there is no room for them on the ground and the tomatoes growing up and over the fence, with no room to walk in between the plants. And then I’m always sure I’m never going to get very many vegetables as they start out few and far between, suddenly I’m buried in bowls full of veggies on my kitchen table! Here is a recipe that I’ve been making for years to use some of my mountain of vegetables. Since the words “Chow Mein” actually mean “left-overs”, I have proven over the years that it turns out no matter what vegetables I put in it (don’t put in tomatoes though) and no matter what quantity of vegetables are used. You don’t have to put in the chicken, and if you want it spicier, you can add Italian sausage. If you need to add more sauce because of the quantity of vegetables, you can easily double that part of the recipe. I often serve it topped with the crunchy Chinese noodles and/or cashews. Chow Mein Prepare and have ready: 1 lb pork, beef, chicken or shrimp. (I usually use chicken) cut in thin slices. 3 c. celery, sliced diagonally 2 c. onions, sliced lengthwise ¾ c. mushrooms, fresh or canned (drain) 3 c. fresh bean sprouts Combine in a small bowl and set aside: 1 T. fresh ginger, chopped OR ¼ tsp powdered ginger 1 tsp sugar 3 T. cornstarch 5 T. soy sauce ¾ c. soup stock or reconstituted bouillon Heat in a large skillet: 1 T. oil. Add meat and stir-fry just until done. Remove from heat. In another skillet, stir-fry in 1 T. oil each vegetable just until slightly cooked. Add each vegetable to meat skillet after stir-frying. Just before serving, reheat meat mixture and add sauce. Cook just until sauce thickens and clears. Serve hot with rice and enjoy! Photo credits: www.angsarap.net/All Creative Commons (1), Joy Johnson (2)