< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener For Dakota County gardeners, let’s get better acquainted with two websites: the U of MN Extension site and our Dakota County Master Gardener site. You can bookmark these on your phone, computer, or tablet—and I encourage anyone to do so. You can find hundreds of helpful articles, guides, books, pamphlets, and more, all available for free! Everything is backed by scientific research and all specific to our growing zone and climate. U of MN EXTENSION SITE: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden From this start page, you see several specific guides to get started in the garden and solve common problems. How-To Guides Growing Guides (starting a garden, composting, fertilizing, hydroponics, houseplants, and more) Pollinator Guides Growing Safe Food Soil and Nutrient Health (including information on how to get your soil tested to learn which fertilizers are best for it ) Watering Guides Landscape design Lawn Care (with calendars for when to seed, mow, and more) Find Plants Flowers (annuals, perennials, native flowers) Fruit Houseplants Native Plants Trees and Shrubs Vegetables Weeds (identify weeds and learn control strategies) What’s wrong with my plant? This helps you diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases, or other issues. If, for example, your eggplants look strange in the vegetable garden this summer, look up eggplants in this guide to learn what the issue is and solve the problem going forward. Weeds Identify the weed in your lawn and find the best way to eradicate or manage it. Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers : https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/ On our local Dakota County Master Gardener website, you’ll find a calendar of local events as well as updates on our local projects and other gardening resources. You will also find dozens of articles on a variety of gardening topics (most articles previously found in the Garden Buzz monthly newsletter). You will find articles on what you might be doing in your garden monthly, good gardening tips, features on native and perennial plants and vegetables; recipes using vegetables or fruits from your garden, and tips to deal with problems in or related to your garden. There is a search box to help you find articles by topic. There is also a link to subscribe to our Garden Buzz newsletter. This is a great supplement to the statewide website. Information on Let’s Get Growing (our spring gardening expo) and the Annual Plant Sale in May is there, as well as a list of the farmers’ markets where our Master Gardener Volunteers will be, answering questions and ready to discuss home gardens with all who stop by. Other resources of note: Gardening Projects with Children This section has dozens of project ideas to do with the kid gardeners in your life! Projects are available for all seasons and incorporate science learning and art. Gardening Book Club Recommendations Looking for a book to read with your gardening club? We’ve got you covered with dozens of book reviews on horticultural topics. Finally, a last way to get information on gardening and the Dakota County Master Gardener projects going on all around you is to follow us on Facebook and Instagram . When the U of MN offers free webinars on pollinators or when a garden tour in our area pops up, we’ll be sure to let you know! Photo credits: Photo 1 for newsletter: Credit Paul Wood Photo 2, credit: U of M Extension

< Back Where Do Monarch Butterflies Go in the Winter? Julie Harris, Master Gardener Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Read about where Monarch butterflies live in the winter and why they choose that spot. Enjoy fun activities with the child in your life and butterflies. Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Well, many butterflies migrate or move from Minnesota to warmer places. In those warmer places, butterflies can also find their food sources – flowers. Since flowers in Minnesota don’t bloom in the winter, butterflies need to fly to areas of the world where they do. Some butterflies who already live in warm climates, will move to a different location because if they stay in one place, butterfly caterpillars will eat all of the available food. Butterflies usually start to migrate in September or October, depending on the weather. Monarch butterflies spend their winter in Mexico and Southern California. (Can you find these places on a map?) Monarch butterflies are the only butterflies to migrate so far away (2,500 miles) each year. In Mexico, the butterflies live in oyamel fir trees and return to the same trees every year. What is really strange, is that these butterflies are not the same butterflies who migrated to these Mexican trees in the prior year. These butterflies were born around mid-August and are the great-great-grandchildren of the butterflies who migrated in the earlier year. So, how do the younger monarchs know which trees to fly to? Scientists think that Monarch butterflies rely on instinct, the sun and magnetic compasses to know where to go. In the spring, the Monarch butterflies fly back to Minnesota because the type of food that they eat is not available to them in Mexico. One sad fact is that the winter homes of the Monarch butterfly are endangered because people are cutting down their favorite trees to build things like roads and houses. In Minnesota, we can help Monarch butterflies to survive by planting milkweed plants and not using poisonous sprays on our plants. References: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/do-butterflies-migrate/ https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/monarch-migration Activity Help your little one appreciate beautiful butterflies by choosing one or more of these activities: Plant a milkweed plant in your garden Go out into the garden and look for butterflies; take a picture and try to identify the type Draw a picture of the life cycle of a butterfly Cut out and decorate paper butterflies Make a butterfly mask Read Gotta Go! Gotta Go! by Sam Swope. This book tells the story of a caterpillar who knew she had to get to Mexico but didn’t know how she would get there. She crawled on her way until she began to grow tired, and hung from a branch, tucked into her chrysalis. When she woke up, she continued her journey until she finally came across a valley with millions of butterflies just like her. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gotta-Go-Picture-Book-Sunburst/dp/0374427860?&linkCode=ll1&tag=wear03e-20&linkId=c6d48ce27484e684775797fa673e9ca4&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Monarch Butterfly by Gail Gibbons. This is a non-fiction book that is clearly written, beautiful illustrated, and packed with scientific facts for kids. This book touches on the life cycle, habitat, migration, body parts, and behavior of monarch butterflies. Dakota County Library Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=monarch+butterfly+gail+gibbons&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 https://kidworldcitizen.org/books-videos-migration-monarch-butterflies/ Photo credits: pixabay.com (1), Sageandzoo.com Creative Commons (2)

< Back Helping Houseplants Stay Healthy this Winter Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Chances are, you’ll be spending more time indoors over the next few months. So will your green and growing friends – your houseplants. It makes sense then to get to know how to keep them healthy. Healthy plants look better. They have less insect problems. Their chances of making it through the winter and out onto the patio next spring increase. So, what can we do to help them out? First grow plants in the best possible conditions. Here you will have to do a little research on the preferences of each plant. Match the plant to its light, moisture and temperature requirements. If a plant is struggling with too little light, too much moisture or too warm or cold a temperature, it will not do well. Second, fulfill your plant’s nutritional requirements. Is your fellow a big feeder or not? Generally speaking, fertilize at half the “recommended dose” for a given plant at the intervals suggested. Fertilizers will be most effective when applied while the plant is actively growing. Third, water your plants properly. This is a biggie! More plants ascend to heaven (or descend to the compost) from overwatering than any other cause. Over-watering combined with poor drainage can encourage root rot and pest problems. If you water on a schedule, say every Tuesday whether they need it or not, you’ll set yourself up for this problem. Water when the soil is dry, say,halfway up your index finger. Also don’t let your plants stand in water. Water at the base of the plant, not on the leaves. Fourth, keep your plants clean. Remove dead leaves, stems and flowers. Don’t let them pile up on the soil surface where they can harbor insect pests. Fifth, use new, sterile potting soil when potting plants. Avoid outdoor garden soil. It probably is chock full of weed seeds and insect eggs. Plant in clean pots and wash off the roots before planting bare-rooted purchases. Finally, inspect your houseplants frequently for insect pests. They most often tend to congregate on the underside of leaves. Early detection is key. If you do suspect that bugs are beginning to set up shop, check out “Managing Insects on Indoor Plants” on the University of Minnesota website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants It’s a great aid for diagnosing and treating pest problems. Observe these few simple procedures and you’ll go a long way to having happy house plants and home bodies! Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back There Is Science Behind Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Believe it or not, the snow will melt soon and your thoughts will turn from shoveling to lawn care. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes, to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. The University of Minnesota turf specialists have for years studied various methods of lawn care in order to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of human, water, and fertilizer resources needed. As it turns out, the best time to plant new grass or reseed your lawn is actually in early Fall not Spring. Dethatching and aerating your lawn are also best left for Fall. Spring is the second best time to plant new grass or re-seed your lawn. The U of MN Extension has developed an extremely handy lawn care calendar to make it easier to follow the science behind lawn care. Following this calendar will produce better results with less effort and hopefully, fewer chemical applications. The trick with Spring is practicing patience as you see your lawn emerge from the snow. For example, many people add fertilizer too early in the Spring. This will just encourage the grass to grow when it’s dormant or when growing should be slow. One of the most common Spring problems is grey snow mold. This has the appearance of whitish dead patches. The blades of grass are usually matted down with a fungal fuzz. This disease thrives on extra fertilizer almost as much as the snow so adding fertilizer will make it worse. Instead, to treat snow mold, rake the matted grass in order to allow for additional air flow. It will take time for the fungus to die and the grass to grow back, but generally, a fungicide is not needed. Also note that once the weather has turned warm, don’t spray for weed control. It’s too late and will increase the chance of damaging your lawn. Climate change is having an impact on our environment and one way to help your lawn is to consider adding some fescue grasses to your lawn mix during Fall re-seeding. Kentucky bluegrass is gorgeous but also needs a lot of water compared to fine fescue, for example. Another option is to consider adding a raingarden in order to retain the water runoff in your yard versus the storm sewers. Improved technologies have been developed such as “smart” irrigation controllers, soil moisture sensors and more efficient sprinklers to more effectively manage water use. If you do have a sprinkler system, please check it every Spring by running through a short cycle to make sure the sprinkler heads are in good working condition and not wasting water. The bottom-line is there is science behind lawn care and following a lawn care calendar and best practices can achieve a better result with fewer resources needed. Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar https://extension.umn.edu/news/practice-patience-spring-lawn-care https://turf.umn.edu/help-lawn-water-conservation Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back The Power of Edamame Edamame is a recently popular vegetable that deserves a place in your garden and kitchen. Rich in protein, antioxidants and fiber, it has many health benefits. Edamame can be eaten in many different ways. Read more about this powerful vegetable in this article. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Edamame is a name for immature green soy beans. It has been enjoyed in Asia for a long time and now it is catching on in western cuisine. In the U.S., you will find it in the frozen vegetable section. It will be in the pod and is meant to be steamed or boiled. The pod isn't edible, but the beans slip out easily after cooking, to be eaten immediately or used in other dishes. They are good cold too. In addition to tasting good, there are some promising health benefits. A life-long diet rich in soy has been linked to a reduced risk of breast cancer. Edamame can reduce the LDL (bad cholesterol) if soy protein replaces animal protein. Isoflavones found in edamame can have an effect similar to estrogen, and may reduce menopause symptoms. Edamame is low on the glycemic index making it attractive to people with type II diabetes. It is a good source of vitamin C, calcium and iron. https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-edamame Edamame can be eaten raw or cooked, tossed in a salad, mashed with garlic on toast or put into pasta or hot dishes. You can find dry-roasted, salted edamame snacks that are vegan, gluten free, Kosher, and non-GMO. If you grow you own, you can make your own snacks! With all these benefits it is great to learn that edamame is also easy to grow! Many seed catalogs will carry Tohya seed (an early variety, 78 days to maturity), but there are also Karikachi (85 days) and Chiba (83 days) varieties. The last and first frost dates for Dakota County are May 8th and October 10th. Knowing these dates and the days to maturity will help inform your choice of variety. Plant the seeds about 6” apart and 1” deep, after the last frost date. They do not respond well to being started indoors and transplanted. They need well-drained soil and don't like wet feet. They have very few pests and most vegetable varieties have been bred for resistance to aphids and Phytophthora root rot. The plants can be up to 2.5 feet tall, the pods are about 2.5” and contain 2-3 beans. Most pods ripen at nearly the same time, but if you leave the smaller pods they will get bigger later. They are open-pollinated, so it is possible to save seed. Try this is recipe from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension: Crispy Edamame Ingredients: 1 (12 ounce) package frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans) 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste Directions: ● Preheat the oven to 400° F (200°C). ● Place the edamame into a colander and rinse under cold water to thaw. Drain. Spread the edamame beans into the bottom of a 9 × 13 inch baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle cheese over the top and season with salt and pepper. ● Bake in the preheated oven until the cheese is crispy and golden, about 15 minutes. Read more at: https://lenoir.ces.ncsu.edu/2018/02/dont-be-afraid-of-the-little-green-bean-2/ Growing edamame is easy and rewarding. Eating it is delicious! Give it a try! Photo credits: www.ourfood.nl (1), www.flickr.com (2), Pumpsandiron.com (2)

< Back The Vacation is Over Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Your orchids have been enjoying an invigorating respite outside, but like all good things, it must come to an end. Orchids, like any indoor plant that has summered outdoors, have the potential of picking up nefarious bugs and potential diseases that you don’t want to bring into your indoor growing area. It is better to go on the offensive while they are outside because there are more treatment options available to combat the offenders when the orchids are outside. Read this article to learn how to return your orchids (or other house plants) indoors after their summer vacation. When is the vacation over ? Orchids are tropical plants, but that doesn’t mean always hot and humid. There are warm growing orchids (Dendrobiums), Warm-Intermediate Orchids (Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis), Intermediate (Cattleya), and cool growing orchids (Cymbidiums). Most home hobbyists have orchids in the middle two varieties and this temperature range is 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. So, when the night time temps begin to fall below 60 it is time to think about ending the vacation. Temperature variations of 10 to 15 degrees between day and night cue orchids to think about blooming. I challenge my orchids by letting the temperatures dip below 60 and have found this does stimulate the growth of flower spikes. My Cymbidiums are an exception; they need to be vernalized to re-bloom and can withstand temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (!). I leave my Cymbidiums outside until the nighttime temperatures dip to the upper 30s and they bloom reliably once indoors. Prepping to come home. When you bring any plant indoors from outside you want to be sure they are not bringing anything home they didn’t leave with. You want to be sure nothing has taken up residence the in the spaces between the bark chips or on the leaves or that an infection hasn’t invaded the plant. Pests I find the easiest way to get rid of the pot of pests is to soak the pot in a container clear up to the pot’s top. Anything inhabiting the mix will float to the top or drown. The culprits I usually see are sow bugs, earwigs, millipedes, and an occasional slug or two. Be sure to inspect the leaves, both top and bottom for pests. Be on the lookout for scale, mealy bugs, and spider mites as these are the most common. You can handle these by wiping down the leaves with water and a drop of dish washing soap. After wiping the leaves, I apply insecticidal soap. To kill two birds with one stone, I mix in a systemic pesticide, like Safari ®, into the water used to get rid of the resident pests. The systemic will continue to help your orchids fend off any sucking pests once they get into the house. Also, I use this occasion to clean off the exterior of the pot because some pests, mealy bugs in particular, will lay their egg masses outside the pot. I then let the pots drain for a day before bringing them in. Diseases Frankly, I haven’t found infections on my orchids; pests seem to be the biggest problem. Having said that, however, it doesn’t hurt to look. If your orchids are outside in the open where it is difficult to control moisture, you might want to look for crown rot. This is treatable with hydrogen peroxide (see reference below). This is also a good time for prophylactic treatments because there are many pesticide options available than can be applied outside, but not inside. These would be the topical sprays that are absorbed into the leaves of the orchid. Any spray that is OK for tropical plants will be OK for your orchids. Summary When you bring in plants from the outdoors to winter in an indoor growing area, it is important to make sure you do not introduce any pests. While this article deals specifically with orchids, the approaches can be used with any tropical plants. Your mantra must be “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!” References: Cymbidium Orchids - 10 Essentials for Growing Stunning Cymbidiums | Orchid Care Zone Time to bring houseplants back inside | UMN Extension Bringing Houseplants Indoors ( psu.edu ) What's wrong with my orchid? - American Orchid Society ( aos.org ) Orchid Crown Rot - Treatment and Prevention - Orchid Bliss Photo Credits: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener One benefit of climate change is that it allows us to grow plants that have previously been out of our growing zone. One of those plants is Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava). A Zone 5 plant, Yellow Honeysuckle is likely to grow well in the southern part of Minnesota. As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains in this article, Yellow Honeysuckle is a beautiful, vining plant that you should consider for your garden. Although Lonicera flava is not usually native to Minnesota, it does grow wild in Illinois and Iowa. With climate change, it would be well worth your while to give this beauty a go. Yellow honeysuckle should do well in the southern part of the state which is rapidly becoming USDA region 5. In the Twin Cities, planting in a fairly sheltered area would be prudent. You folks up in Duluth probably are doomed to disappointment. Once established, Lonicera flava is a hardy fellow through Zone 5 and should give years of spectacular yellow flowers in the mid to late spring. Yellow honeysuckle is a long-lived native perennial. It does best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Beware, however. This sunlight reduction will reduce the number and intensity of blooms. As the vine grows some 10 to 20 feet upwards, you will want to plant it adjacent to a trellis, fence or other sturdy support. A three to six foot spacing between plants is recommended. For the first season after planting, you will want to keep the plant moist although subsequently Lonicera flava is moderately drought resistant. A good covering of mulch helps a lot. Speaking of mulch, it is a good idea to mulch yellow honeysuckle heavily in winter especially in more northerly regions. Don’t heap the mulch around the stem, however, to avoid encouraging rot. The vine also tends to be disease resistant, although occasionally aphids will camp out on the leaves. It also is not the first choice of deer or rabbits on the buffet line. In short, it is a low maintenance plant. Although yellow honeysuckle will fit into most any landscaping scheme, it looks great in an informal or naturalized setting, especially as a border plant in woodlands. It forms tubular, fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers in whorls which attract hummingbirds and many butterfly species with their nectar. The plant will form small round orange to red berries in the late summer into the fall, providing food for birds and many small mammals. Thus, yellow honeysuckle is a big plus to the ecology of your garden. Photo Credits: elmostreport.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons)), Missouri Dept. Conservation (2)

< Back Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. On the positive side, black walnut trees have been prized by furniture makers, carpenters, and wood carvers for their beautiful dark grained wood. Their tree nuts make it an excellent variety to plant for wildlife. Squirrels like to bury the tree nuts for later eating. Humans also like to pick the nutmeat out of the green covering and walnuts are a popular not for use in baking muffins, cookies, and bars. The tree is found across the northern United States among other forest trees. Single stands of black walnut trees are usually not found, instead a single tree will tower above other deciduous trees in the forest. The black walnut can grow to 100 feet tall with deep furrowed dark bark and thick branches, which makes it a great shade tree. Leaves have 11-13 leaflets along a toothed spear. The tree likes moist well drained soils along creeks and rivers. But black walnut trees carry a major negative characteristic. The entire tree is toxic. Roots, buds, leaves and nut hulls contain a chemical called juglone toxin . The soil under the tree will have the highest level of juglone due to the accumulation of roots, fallen leaves, hulls and nuts lying on the ground. Collecting this debris is a good sanitation habit but, nonetheless, the highest amount of juglone is in the roots, which run underground. So, what does that mean for the homeowner who has black walnut trees on their property or may want to grow this tree? You must be aware that most grass, shrubs, herbaceous flowers, some trees, and vegetables will not grow near black walnut trees. Vegetables such as asparagus, cabbage, peppers potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes are sensitive to black walnut tree juglone. Apple trees, blueberry and pear trees are also affected. Azalea, chokeberry, hackberry, hydrangea, lilac, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, and yew, do not tolerate juglone. However, there are some landscape plants that do tolerate juglone. They include, arborvitae, clematis, crabapple, honeysuckle, most maples, oak, and most viburnum. Flowers that will tolerate the toxic soil are zinnia, Siberian squill, lungwort, bee balm, coral bells and others. Some sources recommend planting 50-80 feet from the tree. The University of Minnesota Extension has a complete list of plants that can be planted near a black walnut tree. The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Credits https://extension.umn.edu/managing-woodlands/managing-black-walnut-forests Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Autarmota.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2), www.Marylandbiodiversity.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)