< Back Garden Alchemy Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes for good gardening itself? Garden Alchemy by Stephanie Rose (of Garden Therapy) brings us recipes for all kinds of DIY gardening - from soil & fertilizer to propagation and natural pest management. Read on for a review of this great guide, including 80 “recipes and concoctions!” Stephanie Rose Reviewed by Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Garden Alchemy covers a wide range of natural solutions for indoor and outdoor gardening. Free plants by propagating root cuttings? Yes, please - see page 49! Houseplant tea, anyone? How about a great primer on worm food and compost? Minnesota gardeners can certainly appreciate natural pest management to bring in the birds, bees and bugs we want while deterring the pests we could do without (see page 112 for fungus gnat sand or page 119 for trapping stink bugs!) This book is a fun read - learn about the time the author offered to host plants for a charitable organization in her sunny front yard and ended up with 300 unmarked plants arriving all at once. It’s also a great growing guide to keep on hand. The solutions are based on natural science and documented experimentation of learning through plants. Ms. Rose begins with a discussion of soils and mulches - including how to test the chemistry and structure. She offers many recipes, written in cookbook form, for mixing and amending the soil based on the growing needs. The ingredients are mostly simple and found at home or a local garden center. The same is true of the natural fertilizer concoctions she offers later in the book. There are several fun activities for gardeners of all ages - think seed strips, diy pots, and bird feeders. Many can be completed in a short afternoon. The pictures are beautiful and add to the clear instructions throughout. “It’s getting your hands dirty that will give you the definitive answer how best to grow plants in your unique garden.” As Master Gardeners, we do our best to answer garden questions with science-based advice. Sometimes (often?) the answer is “it depends.” Truth be told, there are a lot of variables that go into gardening. This book makes it fun to learn about our gardening space and experiment with growing solutions. Educated trial and error, with a good dose of patience, are unavoidable parts of the process to, as the author says, “work to build on the foundation Mother Nature has created.” The Canadian author, Stephanie Rose, also has a great website full of advice that works for northern gardeners - gardentherapy.ca I encourage you to check out both the book and the website for great information! Your garden will thank you. Photo Credit: Book Jacket (1)

< Back Mindfulness in the Garden with Kids Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Winter is a lovely time to experience and appreciate nature. The muted colors and slower gardening pace allow us the opportunity to take in and observe our natural environment more closely. Observing nature in winter with the children in your life enhances the experience. Watch your children, not only learn, but interact joyfully with the peaceful winter world around them. Read this article for tips about how to experience mindfulness in our natural spaces with children. We have heard about the mental and physical benefits of time spent in nature. Winter is a time when many of the colors of the warmer seasons are muted, and there is a hush as snow covers the garden and landscape. Mindfulness speaks to an intentional approach to experiencing our natural spaces - both outdoors and inside. We can do this in all seasons, but winter is a great time to slow down and focus before the explosion of sensory stimuli we anxiously await in spring. DO Here are five ways to practice mindfulness in the garden with kids. 1. Get up close to different textures and take some time to really look. Ask your child partner what they see once the leaves have fallen and we can find the contrasts between the bark, stems, and other organic materials against the snow on the ground. 2. Continue on a walk to visit dormant perennials and bulbs you may have planted last summer and fall. Ask your child partner what they think is going on with the plants underground. 3. Calmly look around your garden. Do you see or hear signs of the creatures that spend the winter there, such as nests or tracks in the snow? What do you think it feels like for those creatures in their winter homes? 4. Find a quiet place to sit - on the ground or on a garden bench perhaps. Close your eyes and listen to the garden while taking some slow breaths in - counting 1, 2, 3 - and out - 1, 2, 3. Do this a few more times before continuing your mindful garden walk. 5. Color awareness: take some time to observe colors in your winter garden - maybe some red branches of a dogwood, or brown leaves, or even some faded yellow flowers. Can you see why some plants and trees are called evergreens? How do you feel when you look at the plants around you? Winter weather making it difficult to get outside? We can practice mindfulness in our indoor gardens too. Take a slow tour of house plants, and pause to breathe deeply at each one. Ask your child partner for their observations of color, shape, or even what they would call the plant Plant a few seeds in a pot or tray and place in a warm, bright spot. Make a practice of visiting the seeds and any sprouts, and just taking time to observe what you see. Take some cuttings of plants - such as Trandescantia - and place in a clear glass or vase of water. Pay attention to any roots that grow and ask the child how this helps the plant. Most importantly, mindfulness in our gardens and other natural spaces allows our children of all ages to slow down and practice awareness in a busy world. It’s okay if they find treasures or want to make a drawing along the way, but the focus is on the present - a good skill for gardeners of all ages! READ And here are some books to read with your child gardener: Sing a Season Song , written by Jane Yolen and illustrated by Lisel Jane Ashlock At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=sing+a+season+song On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sing-Season-Song-Jane-Yolen/dp/1568462557/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14CIL143WDVQ9&keywords=sing+a+season+song&qid=1640814878&s=books&sprefix=sing+a+season+song%2Cstripbooks%2C152&sr=1-2 If I Were a Tree , written by Andrea Zimmerman and illustrated by Jing Jing Tsong At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=If+I+were+a+tree On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/If-Were-Tree-Andrea-Zimmerman/dp/1620148013/ref=sr_1_1?crid=RITY8K7B18WU&keywords=if+i+were+a+tree&qid=1640814994&s=books&sprefix=if+i+were+a+tree%2Cstripbooks%2C101&sr=1-1 (Making Tracks) Park by Cocoretto (Board Book) At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?qu=park+cocoretto&te=&lm=NONDIGITAL On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Making-Tracks-Cocoretto/dp/1786282933/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ANJRGNFUF6L8&keywords=park+cocoretto&qid=1640815429&s=books&sprefix=park+cocoretto%2Cstripbooks%2C93&sr=1-1 Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke

< Back Don’t Overlook These Early Spring Native Perennials Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener When we think of early spring plants in Minnesota, we generally envision bulb plants, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths or allium. But don’t overlook the many beautiful native wildflowers that also bloom in early spring. This article will feature six of these plants. They may deserve a place in your garden or look for them as you stroll through local parks or public gardens. When we think of early spring plants in Minnesota, we generally envision bulb plants, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths or allium. But don’t overlook the many beautiful native wildflowers that also bloom in early spring. This article will feature six of these plants. They may deserve a place in your garden or look for them as you stroll through local parks or public gardens. Snow Trillium (Trillium nivale) Snow Trillium Snow Trillium, a Minnesota native, is one of the first wildflowers to bloom in the spring, often appearing while snow is still on the ground. It has delicate white three-part petals about an inch across. The plant is only about 4 inches tall. Snow Trillium grows best in well drained soil and light shade. Pasque Flower (Anemone patens) Pasque flower Pasque Flower is commonly found in prairies or along hiking trails. Often one of the first perennials to bloom, it has 1 ½ inch, soft, lavender to white petals and fuzzy stems. The leaves form a mound 10-12 inches tall. Pasque Flower grows in well-drained soil and full sun. The plant remains attractive throughout the summer. All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested but still it has been used medicinally. Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) Bloodroot “Who does not know the bloodroots – babes in the wood – each closely wrapped in the swaddling blanket of a quaintly fashioned grayish-green leaf?” Eloise Butler , 1911. Bloodroot blooms in March and April and dies back in early summer. It has white petals around golden centers and stands 3 - 8 inches tall. There are 6 – 12 petals which reach a total width of 1 – 2 1/3 inches. Its odd name comes from the red sap in its roots and stems. Bloodroot is found in woodlands with moist to dry soil and spreads from rhizomes. Bloodroot needs sunlight before the tree canopy leafs out but then requires shade. All parts of the plant are poisonous in large quantities but it has an extensive history of medicinal use. Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus) Skunk Cabbage emerges early in the season, generating its own heat to melt the snow surrounding it. It isn’t a particularly showy plant and does emit an unpleasant scent when crushed but its reddish-purple flowers are an important supporter of early-season pollinators. The heat that it generates helps to attract pollinators. The plant will grow 2 – 3 feet in height with the curled-cabbage-like-leaves appearing after the flower emerges. It can be found in bogs and stream edges. Hepatica (Hepatica nobilis) Hepatica Hepatica, is a lovely early spring perennial with star-shaped flowers in shades of blue, purple and white. The flowers are ½ - 1 inch wide and the plant grows about 12” high. The leaves are evergreen, turning to a purple color in the fall. It is often found in wooded areas alongside Bloodroot. Hepatica is in the buttercup family and goes by the common name “liverleaf” or “liverwort.” The common name comes from the leaves’ resemblance to the human liver. The leaves can be poisonous if ingested and do not appear to have any medicinal value. Many pollinators are attracted to Hepatica during their month-long blooming period. Dutchman’s Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) Dutchman's Breeches flowers Dutchman’s Breeches is named for its white, pant-shaped flowers that dangle upside down over dainty leaves. They bloom in March and April and are a favorite of early-season pollinators. The plant grows 4 – 12 inches tall. The flowers have pale red to yellowish stalks, white with yellow or pink-tinged centers about ¾ inches long. The yellow-green or grayish-green leaves have a sharp point and die back in mid-summer. Dutchman’s Breeches prefer dappled sunlight in rich soils under a tall tree canopy. The plant may be harmful if ingested and can cause dermatitis in sensitive people. However, parts of the plant have been used to treat skin diseases. If you do not have these lovely early perennials in your yard, you can find many of them in parks and nature areas around the twin cities. Of course, the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden in Hennepin County has been host to nearly all of these wildflowers for decades. So, look forward to taking a walk in nature within the next few weeks and look for these native beauties. Reference: https://mplsparksfoundation.org/early-spring-blooms-7-plants-to-spot-in-minneapolis-parks/ https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/seasonal/mcearlyspring.html www.hort.extension.wisc.edu Photo Credit: G.D. Bebeau; www.friendsofeloisebutler.org (1,2,3,4,6) University of Wisconsin Extension (5)

< Back Ground Cover Plants May Be Just What You Need Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selections of our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Walking through the gates of your local nursery is sure to stir up feelings of excitement and inspiration. After a long, gray winter, it’s hard not to be pulled towards all the colors and textures that were missing over the season and imagine where you could find room in your garden to fit them all. Maybe your garden is well seasoned and as summer progresses, bursts at the seams. Or maybe you’re in the beginning stages and there is a lot of space left for your plants to mature. Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selection for our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Each year, many of us fill in open spaces with annuals, however, you can save yourself time and expense by investing in some ground covers. This season I plan to fill a 50+ foot long by 5-foot-tall rock wall with as much creeping phlox as I can get my hands on. There is nothing better than having early signs of spring cascading over and across your landscape and knowing that it will return year after year, lusher and more vibrant than the year before. Beauty isn’t the only benefit that comes from incorporating ground covers into your garden. It may surprise you to learn that there are several ways ground covers can also help solve some common landscape challenges. Bugleweed USES On Slopes Many homeowners in Minnesota live on a property that has some level of slope, or perhaps a hilly, hard to mow area. Ground covers are a terrific option not only for erosion control, but to add something beautiful to your property where it might be challenging or unsafe to provide upkeep with a mower In Shade In mature landscapes, where spreading canopies cast wide shadows across the lawn, ground cover can be used to fill in spots where other plants won’t grow. They are also very happy growing over tree roots In High Traffic Areas If you’re looking to add some greenery to an area where kids and pets frequently run through, look no further than ground covers. Certain ground covers are durable enough to withstand foot traffic while maintaining form and sometimes even releasing a fragrance when disturbed Weed Control Weeds are opportunists. Adding ground cover to an open area gives weeds little hope in maturing when they must compete with a healthy carpet of ground cover In Gaps Rock walls and gaps between steppingstones are ideal locations to add ground cover which will help soften the rough landscape edges As Companion Plants Looking for a low growing perennial to keep the roots of your clematis cool? Add some ground cover plants! Kamtschaticum Sedum CARE As a low maintenance plant, ground covers don’t ask for much and in many cases, once established, can handle challenging soil and site conditions. Pruning is usually not needed unless you’re cutting out dead stems or spent flowers, or you need to tame a section for aesthetics or function, for instance clearing part of a path. SELECTION Before selecting a ground cover, be sure to consider your hardiness zone, soil and available light for the plant. No matter what your ground cover interest or need, you’re sure to find a ground cover plant that will fit the bill. Here are some ideas to get you started. Evergreen Creeping Phlox Candy Tuft Bugleweed Cotoneaster Bearberry Creeping Juniper Siberian Cypress Sedum Evergreen Periwinkle Bearberry Flowering / Fragrant Creeping Thyme Various varieties of sedum Sweet Woodruff Bugleherb (Bugleweed) Creeping Juniper Snow-in-Summer Soapwort Tolerates Light Foot Traffic Scotch Moss Bugleweed Creeping Jenny Large Fillers Lambs Ears Hosta Groundcover just may be the practical and economic answer to your gardening need. I little plant may go a long way. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3) & Julie Harris (2)

< Back Beware Garlic Mustard in Early Spring Garlic Mustard may be edible and tasty but unless you are planning to cook with it, you will not want it growing in your yard. One of the first weeds to appear in the spring, Garlic Mustard is a noxious weed that is difficult to get rid of. Read this article to learn how to identify Garlic Mustard and how to control it. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener While working in my rain garden one Fall, planting tulips and other spring bulbs, I discovered a new patch of unknown plants growing that I knew I had not planted. And it smelled like garlic when I pulled it out – but it sure didn’t look like the garlic I grow. I recalled someone talking about Garlic Mustard and based on the pictures and description I found on the University of Minnesota Extension garden website ( UMN Extension - Garlic Mustard ), determined that was my newest garden challenge. Despite sounding like something delicious (and it can be used to cook), Garlic Mustard is on the MN Department of Agriculture’s Noxious Weed list . Garlic Mustard is allelopathic, sending out chemicals that cause the reduced growth of nearby plants. It is challenging to eradicate. However, knowing its lifecycle can help you manage it ( Garlic Mustard Lifecycle graphic ). It is a biennial, which means during the first year, green vegetation growth occurs, with heart-shaped leaves that grow in a rosette format. In the second year, Garlic Mustard shoots up a stalk, 1 to 4 feet with serrated leaves and produces flowers and then seeds. The flowers are small, white, and have four petals. Seeds are produced in black oblong capsules with a single row of seeds. There can be over 100 seeds released by one plant and they can survive in the soil for five years. Controlling Garlic Mustard takes perseverance. It is one of the first plants to emerge in the spring and the green leaves make it easy to find. Handpulling the plants is an option however, it is important to pull out the entire root. The Garlic Mustard root is a long, slender tap with an S-shaped end that makes it difficult to pull out fully. Disposing of the plants must be done correctly to avoid spreading it further. If you pull out plants that are flowering, you need to make sure to bag the plants as they can still produce seeds for several days. The pulled plants should remain on site to decay naturally, according to the Noxious Weed List information. And it is illegal to put them in garbage bins (Minnesota Statute 115A.931). Some chemicals, such as those that have triclopyr (Garlon) or glyphosate, have been effective especially when carefully applied in early spring or late fall before Garlic Mustard flowers. Despite being a noxious weed, Garlic Mustard is actually edible and tasty. You can make pesto, soups, quiches, salads, cakes, and more ( Garlic Mustard Recipes ). Make sure you are harvesting it safely and legally, for example, avoid roadside ditches that may have been treated with pesticides. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/garlic-mustard#disposal-2997812 (1,2,3)

< Back Dividing Irises and Peonies Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Intern Now that the Peony and Iris blossoms are gone for the season it's the perfect time to dig and divide the crowded plants. This article will help you prepare these plants for next year's season of beautiful blooms. The dog days of summer are upon us. It’s a great time to enjoy the fruits of your labors by harvesting fruits and veggies you have meticulously tended. Or maybe your garden presents a feast for your eyes, exploding with color or calming the senses with cool and shady textures. Before you get too comfortable sitting back and taking it all in, now is the perfect time to dig in and divide your crowded peonies and irises as their showy blossoms have faded away until next year. Dividing Irises The US Forest Service tells us there are approximately 280 species of irises in the world; this article will focus on the bearded iris. It is undeniably a popular choice among gardeners and it’s no wonder because of the rainbow of colors they provide in the garden. In fact, the origin of their name can be traced back to Greek mythology where Iris was the messenger traveling on a rainbow between the heavens and earth, thus the meaning of the name Iris is rainbow. Author Madison Moulton, a historian and political scientist, writes that cultivation of the iris plant can be traced back 2000 years to ancient Egypt. Throughout the centuries, it became a royal symbol, making its appearance on royal banners and coats of arms as the fleur-de-lis. In more recent times, the bearded iris, or Iris germanica, was named the state flower of Tennessee, and the fleur-de-lis is also the symbol of New Orleans. Now that you know the history of this garden beauty, it’s time to learn about how to divide this noble plant to keep it healthy and blooming in your garden for years to come. The University of Illinois Extension reminds us that the hundreds of species of irises can be separated into two groups – rhizomatous and bulbous. The bulbous irises are planted in the fall along with other fall planted bulbs. The bearded iris, however, falls into the group of rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that store food for the plant. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that during August, irises tend to go dormant, making it the perfect time to divide them. As irises mature, rhizomes keep producing more and more rhizomes and crowd themselves out. Benefits of regular division every three to five years include more profuse flowering, and it helps prevent problems like iris borer and soft rot. The University of Illinois Extension suggests dividing that often, especially if your iris patch is producing noticeably fewer blooms. Using a shovel or pitchfork, carefully lift the plants out of the soil. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension offers the tip to water the ground thoroughly the day before if the soil is particularly dry to make lifting the plants easier. If possible, try to lift an entire clump and divide the rhizomes once you have lifted it and shaken or washed off the soil to inspect the rhizomes. If you notice any soft spots on the rhizomes or dark streaks on the leaves, iris borers are probably to blame. Extract and kill any caterpillars you find and use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cuts away any damaged parts. Any soft, smelly, or rotted material should be destroyed rather than placing it in the compost. As Penn State Extension suggests, you can probably break apart the rhizomes with your hands, but if you need to use a knife, it is a good idea to dip it in a 10% bleach and water solution after each cut. The University of Wisconsin-Madison tells us to make sure each new plant division has a firm rhizome, is light-colored, at least 3 inches long with healthy roots, and has a fan of leaves. Penn State Extension adds that a good rhizome should be about as thick as your thumb. While dividing your iris, it is recommended you cut back the leaves to about a third of their height. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension notes that this makes the plants easier to work with and helps reduce transpiration while the plant becomes reestablished. Using clean shears works fine for this step. Now it is time to plant! Penn State Extension instructs us to dig a shallow hole 10 inches across by 4 inches deep and to build up a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound with the roots cascading down the mound into the hole. Fill the hole with dirt leaving the top of the rhizome just visible. A common mistake is to plant irises too deep. Penn State Extension also recommends that for the most attractive display, plant single rhizomes or groups of three, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the fans of leaves all facing the same direction. Water thoroughly and do not add mulch to avoid rot. Dividing Peonies Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong once sang, “Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off” when they couldn’t agree if it was a tomato or tomahto or potato or potahto. Here is a question for you: Do you call it a pee-uh-nee or pee-o-nee? According to dictionary.com , the correct pronunciation is… pee-uh-nee. With that settled, let’s learn about dividing peonies. Unlike irises that thrive from frequent divisions, it is said that a peony plant left in the garden may well outlive the gardener! Peonies can go 50 to even 100 years without needing to be divided. However, that does not mean a gardener should never divide a peony plant. Reasons for dividing may be to have more peonies for free, to share, or to bring along part of a peony if a gardener is moving yet wants to keep a plant that has been in the family for generations. Iowa State University Extension suggests that September is the best time to divide peonies. They recommend to first cut back the stems nearly to ground level. Next, carefully dig up the plant and then wash or shake the soil off the roots. Penn State Extension reminds us to remove any rotted material. The University of Illinois Extension notes that if dividing a large mature plant, you may dig up just half of the plant at a time. Use a sharp knife to divide the tuberous main root, called the crown, so that each wedge includes three to five pink or white-colored buds, or eyes, and one to two large main roots so that it can gather enough energy to provide for next year’s growth. Dig a generous hole and plant the new clumps so that the three to five “pink eyes’ are pointed side up and one to two inches below ground level, and space the plants two to three feet apart. Fill the hole back up with soil. University of Illinois Extension recommends for best results to add about an inch of organic matter such as compost or peat along with an inch of topsoil to cover the pink or white eyes. Be sure to water regularly throughout the fall if it doesn’t rain. It is also a good idea to apply mulch before winter. By following these steps, you should have happy, healthy plants that will continue to provide you with beautiful flowers for years to come. Photos credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3, 4), Lisa Olson (5), University of Pennsylvania Extension (6)

< Back Tomato Problems Homegrown tomatoes are the highlight of a summer garden. In this article you will learn some very helpful tips to achieve the best possible harvest. Janice Gestner, Master Gardener Tomatoes (Solanium lycopersicum) are among the most commonly grown vegetables by gardeners. The joy of using vitamin-rich, low-calorie tomatoes in fresh summer salads, in sauces, and many more ways make it one of the most versatile vegetables grown. The easiest way to avoid tomato problems is by giving them the site, space, and conditions they want as a plant that originated in South America. Tomatoes along with its Nightshade family members, including eggplants and peppers, love the sun-filled days with temperatures between 65°F and 95°F. They love well-drained, fertile soil, pH numbers between 5.5-7, mulches to regulate soil temperatures and moisture, and plenty of space. Cages, stakes and careful pruning help keep plants clean and less prone to disease. Consistent watering until tomatoes are ripening is also important to overall plant health. Gardeners who carefully follow all of the growing tips for tomato plants will avoid many of the disease and insect issues that can be problems for tender tomato plants. However, sometimes climate conditions, gardening errors, insects and other problems happen. The University of Minnesota Extension site titled “Tomato Disorders” at https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/tomato-disorders provides information about possible disorders. A summary of the information found on this site includes the following: Disorders may be caused by varietal choices. If gardeners have provided good management, trying different tomatoes varieties might be the best answer for the location. Seed catalogs can give information on disease resistant varieties. Blossom-end rot is an issue where fruit has a tan/black flattened spot on the end of the fruit. This is usually caused by inconsistent watering or possibly too heavy rains. The plant has a calcium deficiency that is not usually caused by soil deficiency but the inability for the plant to take up calcium through the roots. Gardeners should remove all tomatoes with the disorder because they will never develop correctly. New fruit coming on the tomato plant may be okay if watering is carefully controlled. Blossom end rot Sunscald can be seen on tomatoes that have a pale yellow or white side surface. It is caused by too much sun, the result of leaf loss due to over-pruning, insect damage or disease damage. The spots can be an entry point for decay, and tomatoes should be picked immediately since they will not develop properly. Continue to harvest developing tomatoes. Sun scald Early blight is caused by either of two pathogens called Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani . They attack the plant either by being blown in on the wind, splash up from contaminated soil, humidity, wet weather, or even from human contact. They usually start at brown spots on the lower part of the plant. Safe practices to avoid the contamination include watering low to the ground and adding mulch around the plants to avoid soil splash up. Prune away any leaves on the low part of the plant that you see with brown spots. It is okay to remove up to a third of the bottom leaves if necessary. Be sure to wash your hands and clippers to avoid passing the fungus on to other plants. Early blight Growth cracks circling the stems on tomatoes may happen because of fast growth. Heavy rains and high temperatures can also cause these cracks. Regulating watering is the best way to try to avoid the condition. Tomatoes can be used if you cut off the cracking area and use the rest of the tomato. Growth cracks Healthy tomato plants depend upon us to provide the best growing conditions we can provide as described above. Remember to rotate tomato crops to other sunny sections of the garden to avoid leftover pathogen and tomato problems from past years. Last, sometimes gardeners do everything correctly, but weather conditions may still control the harvest outcome. There is always a new year to try again. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Growing Terrific Tomatoes Unknown Master Gardener 1) Purchase Healthy Plants Buy from local grower Bushy, disease free plants (no yellow leaves, no spots on leaves, stems) Disease resistant. Check tag: VFH. V=Verticillium, F=Fusarium wilt, N= Nematode resistance. Select local varieties, buy more than one variety 2) Good Soil Have soil tested. Call: 612.625.3101 Add good amount of organic matter - well-rotted manure, compost Watch PH Plant in pots? Change soil every year to prevent diseases Go to www.extension.umn.edu and click on GARDEN for more information 3) Location, location, location Minimum of 6 - 8 hour of sun ideal Near water source Rotate crops every year on a 3 year cycle Keep good records 4) Plant Correctly Don’t rush the season (plant 10 days AFTER the last frost date in your area) Harden off plants Don’t plant when soil is wet – stay out of garden when wet Pinch off lower branches, leaving few at top of plant, all fuzzy hairs of stem will become roots. Plant sideways in trench Dig out a shallow trench Remove lower stems and branches Lay entire plant down in trench on side Cover with soil 5) Don’t Crowd Plants Tomato plants get very large Need air circulation which will help dry leaves and prevent disease Will have more tomatoes when given adequate space to grow 6) Fertilize Plants Feed with balanced fertilizer Beginning after first fruit set 7) Mulch Soil Mulch is fabulous garden tool: Helps prevent weeds Will hold moisture in soil Helps prevent water splashing on leaves which helps prevent disease Mulch soil a few weeks after planting Types of mulch: wood chips, newspaper (not color), straw, grass clippings (no chemicals) 8) Water Plants regularly and deeply: Tomatoes require consistent moisture to produce a crop of smooth and unblemished fruit A tomato is 95% water! Need lots of water to grow and develop fruit Should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. No overhead watering…no sprinkler. Water splashes on leaves and causes soil to splash on leaves. Soaker hose is best Water plants at base Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light watering will encourage weak root system. Watch container plants…anything in pot. plastic heats up quickly may need to be watered twice a day 9) Keep Plants off the Ground Staking plants will help reduce losses due to leaf diseases Keep fruit off the ground Round metal cage (heavier metal the better) Metal stake in ground/ Metal cage Use twisty ties to hold up branches to cage…be gentle Easier to pick tomatoes when ripe…do not let over ripen. 10) Clean Up Garden Area after Harvest Some pathogens over-winter on infected plant debris Important to dispose of: rotted tomatoes infected plants infected leaves infected weeds Leaf fungus can persist in soil Tomato Dictionary Determinate : Tomato plants whose vines make little or no growth once fruit is set. Most of the fruit develops at the same time. Indeterminate: Vines keep producing new shoots, blossoms and fruit throughout the growing season. Heirloom Tomatoes are open pollinated plants. They often do not produce as many tomatoes as hybrids, but typically taste better. Hybrid Tomatoes are plants that have been controlled breeding and have some good qualities such as disease-resistance bred in them. LINKS UMN Extension – Disorders of Tomatoes UMN Extension – Growing Tomatoes, Peppers & Eggplants in Minnesota Home Gardens

< Back September - A Jar of Flowers Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Summertime - a flower extravaganza! The beauty of flowers cannot be beat, but now what do we do as summer comes to a close. Is there a way to preserve or hold onto the flowers throughout fall and winter? Did you say throughout winter? Yes, it is possible to preserve your summertime flowers throughout Winter in a fun and creative way with the Little Sprouts in your life using simple items you may have at home! We are going to learn how to not just press our summer flowers, but turn them into a beautiful decoration to give as a gift or keep for ourselves. Supplies Needed : Flowers from garden (best are smaller or more open petal flowers/blooms, leaves, grasses; ex. Cosmos, Pansy, Hydrangea, Daisy, Larkspur, Forget-Me-Not, etc.) Parchment Paper or Tissue Paper Heavy objects (used to lay on top of flowers while pressing) Glass Container (ex. canning, jam/pickle/olive jars), Vase, Votive Mod Podge (DIY - glue & water mixed to a milky consistency) Brush Patience (waiting for flowers to dry may take a couple weeks) Find your favorite “Little Sprout” and visit your flower garden and begin finding your favorite flowers, leaves and grasses. It is a great time to explore and introduce your “Little Sprout” to the world of gardening and explore all there is to see. Watch for pollinators, talk about the various plant parts, shapes, colors and varieties. Cut the flowers you would like to use (choosing drier flowers is best) and with a paper towel gently press the flowers, leaves and grasses trying to get out as much moisture as possible. Now the drying process begins. Place flowers/leaves/grass between double layers of tissue paper and then place between two heavy objects (books, wood pieces with heavy objects placed on top). Flowers/leaves/grasses will take about 2-4 weeks to dry fully. Check on your flowers after a week to see if new tissue paper is needed. Flowers can mold during this process if they start out too moist and changing the tissue paper allows for better moisture absorption. Place heavy objects again on the flowers/leaves/grass. Repeat this process until all items are completely dry. Once all flowers/leaves/grasses are dry it is time to create a “Jar of Flowers”. Take the jar, vase or votive (glass container) you have chosen and with the brush, spread a coat of Mod Podge or the DIY Glue/Water mixture on the outside of the glass trying to put it on as smooth as possible if you do not want brush marks to show. Next, take the dried flowers/leaves/grasses and place them on your glass container as you wish to create a unique design. Add a second layer of Mod Podge or DIY Glue/Water mixture covering all of the glass container. Let dry! Once dry your glass container can be turned into a vase or votive holder. Give the creation away or keep for yourself. It will remind you and your “Little Sprout” throughout the year of your beautiful flower garden and all the fun that can be had with a few flowers, a glue mixture and a glass container/jar. Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1,2) , www.littlepinelearners.com (3)

< Back Learning to Grow African Leafy Vegetables in Minnesota The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. This article identifies some native African vegetables and discusses an important plant breeding program started by the University of Minnesota and partnering with community members. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. To address this problem, University of Minnesota students, led by Rex Bernardo, director of the Plant Breeding Center at the University, formed a Community Plant Breeding Team and partnered with community members and Hennepin County Master Gardeners to attempt to develop vegetable varieties that are better adapted to our climate. With input from the African and Asian communities, the group focused on four native African species: amaranth, spider wisp, jute mallow and Ethiopian mustard . These species have not received significant breeding attention and seeds of these species are not available commercially in the United States. Jute mallow or Molokhi (Xoexhoeua olitorious) originated in Egypt. It is filled with nutrients and has been used in traditional medicine. Spider wisp , or chinsaga (Cleome gynandra) is also nutrient-rich and is found in dishes in Kenya and parts of Asia. It is drought tolerant and self-seeding. Amaranth , or mchicha, emboga, or quintoniles. Its’ leaves and seeds are eaten throughout the world, generally in dry climates. Ethiopian mustard (Brassica carinata), also known as Gomenzer, Yehabesha Gomen and Hamli Adri, originated mainly in the Ethiopian highlands. It has been eaten as a leafy vegetable and oilseed crop since ancient times. It is a candidate for use as a clean energy source. The project necessitated engagement and input from community members as well as the expertise of specialists in agronomy and horticulture. This article highlights how the group went about engaging with the community to produce adaptations of their target vegetables. The article, titled, “ Lessons from a student-let breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota ” also provides detailed information about the native African vegetables studied. The group hopes to release their first cultivar of a leafy African vegetable in the next few years. It hopes that its work can serve as a model for other groups who might wish to expand to the Asian and Latin American communities. If you are interested in exploring other native African plants that can be grown in Minnesota, this article lists several plants, some of which will be familiar to you, including: Amaranth (see above), Okra, African Eggplant, Yams, Cassava, Taro Leaves, Waterleaf, Ethiopian Kale, Bitter Leaf, African Cabbage, Cowpeas, African Nightshade, Jute Leaves (see above), African Cucumber and Hibiscus Plant. For more information about growing native African vegetables, refer to the sources below and others at the University of Minnesota Extension website . Sources: Crop Science/Volume 65, Issue 3, “Lessons from a student-led breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota, May 14, 2025 University of Minnesota Extension, “Exploring African Plants, October 18, 2023 University of Minnesota Extension, “Growing Staple Vegetables from Around the World in Minnesota,” 2024 Ethiopian Mustard (Brassica carinata A. Braun) as an Alternative Energy Source and Sustainable crop; https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 University of Minnesota Extension; https://mglobal.umn.edu/immigrants-minnesota-often-crave-taste-home-u-m-researchers-breeding-african-crops-minnesota https://www.fifteen.net/vegetables/african/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), HDPI https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back Indulging in the World of Mulching Spring has sprung in Minnesota! Are you thinking about putting mulch in your garden or wondering if you should? Resolve to learn more about mulching in your landscape beds this year. As you wander around your gardens and at the local landscape and garden supply stores, you may wonder which type of mulch to use, where to apply it and what time of year is appropriate for such mulch. Read on to find out the answers to these mulching questions. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener CATEGORIES OF MULCH ORGANIC Organic mulches are natural materials that decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and beneficial microorganisms that inhibit plant diseases. The increased amounts of organic matter will improve soil drainage and moisture retention, reduce soil compaction, and attract earthworms. Because organic mulches decompose, they need to be replaced. Depending on the type of mulch used, replacement intervals vary from one to four years. Bark: Available in bags or bulk, bark mulch comes in various particle sizes, ranging from fine to large chunks with some decorative colored/dyed options. This attractive mulch is weed-free and decomposes slowly, with cedar and cypress being the slowest. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs, and roses, as well as in perennial beds. Photo by Mary Gadek daffodils surrounded by wood mulch Wood Chips: Wood chips from local arborists, municipal facilities, or waste sites are produced by chipping or shredding tree and shrub trimmings. Shredded mulch is less likely to blow or wash away than chips. Wood chips are best used in most landscape plantings, including around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Be aware: Some commercially available wood chips are made by shredding or chipping lumber or pallets. They are an inferior product that breaks down quickly and may contain chemicals. These products are sometimes dyed to mask their origin. Check labels or with your garden center to avoid such products. Wood chips are best used in landscape plantings, such as around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Pine Needles: Pine needle mulch, or pine straw, is light, airy, slow to decompose, and attractive. It lasts several years and can be easily removed, if necessary. Pine needles are slightly acidic, although their effect on soil pH is relatively minor. Use pine needles in the landscape, especially around trees and shrubs, and perennials. Available at local garden centers or under the pine tree in your yard. Photo by Mary Gadek straw mulch in garden Cocoa Beans Shells: Cocoa bean shells or cocoa hulls are a by-product of chocolate production. They are light, easy to handle, and have an attractive brown color with a pleasant aroma. This mulch is more expensive than most, but a depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Best to use for annuals, large containers, perennials, vegetable gardens, roses and sensory gardens. They typically last about one growing season. WARNING: Dog owners should monitor their dogs closely, as dogs may develop signs of chocolate poisoning if they ingest it. Straw: Wheat, oat, or soybean straw, free of seeds , makes effective short-term mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed as well as overwintering insulation for cold-tender plants. Avoid using it around trees and shrubs as it may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Sawdust : Sawdust is easy to apply, weed-free, and decomposes slowly. Apply sawdust in vegetable gardens, perennial plantings, or around trees and shrubs. Use saw dust that either has been composted or aged for a year, or a thin layer (1 inch or less) of fresh saw dust, ensuring it doesn't crust over, reducing water infiltration. Watch for nitrogen deficiency (when your plants appear light green to yellow colors and slow growth) when using sawdust due to the high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Refrain from using sawdust from treated lumber. Leaves: Taken right from your own yard, s hred or compost leaves before using them as mulch to prevent matting, reduce their likelihood of blowing away, and speed up decomposition. Utilize for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, raspberry plantings, and around perennials, trees, and shrubs. However, skip applying for winter mulch for strawberries and herbaceous perennials because they tend to mat down and smother plants. Grass Clippings: Grass clippings decompose quickly, making them ideal for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds or left (without clumps) on your lawn while cutting with an unbagged lawnmower. Let lawn clippings dry before applying to gardens, as fresh clippings may form a dense mat or produce an odor. Avoid using clippings treated with broadleaf herbicide until after two or three mowings. Clippings from weed-infested lawns will contain weed seeds. Newspaper and Cardboard: newspaper and cardboard can be used as mulch (but is often then covered with wood mulch or compost), in vegetable gardens, garden pathways, and around trees and shrubs. Shredded newspapers or whole sheets can be used as mulch. Most newspapers use organic inks, so there is no worry about lead contamination. Avoid waxed cardboard and glossy paper, such as magazine pages. Remove tape and staples from boxes. This link provides additional instructions on how to implement this mulch. Compost: Compost, used alone or with other mulches, like shredded leaves or newspaper, helps improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility, but doesn't suppress weeds as well as other mulches. Compost can be used in nearly all garden settings, including perennial and annual beds, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs. INORGANIC Photo by Mary Gadek Little Bluestem ornamental grass in rock mulch Inorganic mulches, include rock, gravel, rubber or plastic chips, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric . The benefits of inorganic mulches are: warming the soil in the spring or fall, suppressing weeds, limiting soil erosion on steep areas and preventing water infiltration where water is not wanted. However, inorganic mulches do not contribute to building soil fertility or composition, can overheat soil in the summer and often have organic material collected on top of it, leading to weed issues. Inorganic mulches usually are more tedious to install, may require additional irrigation and can be difficult to garden in, making planting, transplanting, and weeding challenging. Rubber or plastic chips eventually decompose, which can release chemical components that are not desirable for healthy soil. Organic mulches placed over landscape fabric can still get weeds and are more likely to wash away. WHEN TO APPLY MULCH In Minnesota, apply mulch i n early spring but wait until the ground warms and perennials emerge. Putting down a layer of mulch too early can further insulate the ground and slow plant emergence. In the fall, mulch can help protect newly planted perennials and other plants from harsh cold temperatures. For late-season applications, apply mulch after plants go dormant, but not too early, as it can delay dormancy and increase the risk of cold damage. BEWARE OF JUMPING WORMS Beware of jumping worms. Once you have chosen the type of mulch, keep reading to learn more about applying mulch to your garden as well as learning about invasive jumping worms which like to reside in mulch. Here is an article about mulch and jumping worms . For more jumping worm prevention, seek out garden centers that use the recommended best practices with their mulch. This is an article about best management practices. Mulching is often a good gardening practice but be mindful of the type of mulch your use and when to use it, in order to obtain the best result. Sources https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/using-mulch-garden https://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/how_to_select_mulch.pdf https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics/ https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/prepcare/garden-mulch-and-jumping-worms https://www.mnla.biz/news/677301/2024-Updated-Nursery--Landscape-Best-Management-Practices-BMPs-to-Reduce-Spread-of-Jumping-Worms.htm#:~:text=Only%20use%2C%20sell%2C%20purchase%2C,eggs%20and%20other%20horticultural%20pests . Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1-3)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)