< Back Fall Perennials Leah Randt, Master Gardener Creating season-long interest in your flowerbed is a rewarding part of our hobby. Watching as plants come alive and change throughout the season creates renewed interest and excitement. When the temperatures start to cool off with the approach of fall, you may find a lack of flowering plants in your bed. There are several choices of striking ornamental grasses to choose from, but what about flowers? Creating season-long interest in your flowerbed is a rewarding part of our hobby. Watching as plants come alive and change throughout the season creates renewed interest and excitement. When the temperatures start to cool off with the approach of fall, you may find a lack of flowering plants in your bed. There are several choices of striking ornamental grasses to choose from, but what about flowers? I have picked my top four fall flowering perennials that you can plant for keeping color in your flowerbed until frost hits. Anemone x hybrida , commonly called Windflower or Japanese Anemone , is in the buttercup family and can bring color to your flowerbed just as summer is fading. The dainty blooms can come in snow white, pink, or even dark purple, and they are a favorite of bees. This perennial is a vigorous, low-maintenance plant that forms neat, dense, compact mounds of foliage. Japanese Anemone can grow to be 3-4 feet tall when blooming and will bloom for 5-8 weeks from late summer into early fall. The plant grows best in full sun to part shade, in evenly moist but well-drained soil. However, it has been known to do well even in clay soil. Deer and rabbits will leave Japanese Anemone plants alone, and they do not have any serious insect or disease problems. This perennial makes an excellent choice all around, especially for cottage-styled flower beds. Helenium autumnale , commonly called Helenium or Sneezeweed . Allergy sufferers need not fear the name - Helenium blooms around the same time as wild ragweed. Ragweed is a major source of hay-fever-inducing pollen, and Helenium is falsely blamed for this because it blooms at the same time. A member of the Asteraceae family, these daisy-like flowers resemble coneflowers and come in many different varieties from yellow to coppery brown and red. Preferring full sun and moist conditions, Helenium will quickly mature to three to five feet tall and have a spread of 24 inches wide. This fall blooming perennial is a great choice for pollinator beds or cut flower gardens. Balloon Flowers, Platycodon grandifloras , are a clump-forming perennial flower. They are well named for their puffy, balloon-like buds that swell up to produce 2-3-inch star-shaped flowers. Just before the blooms burst, kids love to pop them open. It can be a great way to get children enthusiastic about gardening. These flowers are an excellent choice for any gardener because they are resilient and demand no special treatment. You will get the most flowers if you plant in full sun (but part shade is also acceptable) and if you deadhead spent blooms. Providing cheerful lavender/blue flowers P. grandifloras will grow to a height of 24 to 36 inches. They make a great middle to back of the border plant because they rarely flop over and their soft color compliments many other plants. Balloon Flowers also make lovely additions to containers. Asters make a wonderful addition to any flower bed looking to continue color into fall. Asters flower in response to the shortening days of fall. They bloom from August through October, sometimes into November. There are dozens of cultivars of Asters, and their daisy-like flowers range in color from purple, blue, or pink. Pollinators will flock to this plant as it provides a rare source of late-season nectar. Asters prefer to be planted in an area with full sun and well-draining soils. They need plenty of room to grow in your flowerbed, reaching mature heights of 1-6 feet tall and 1-4 feet wide, this size can vary by type. I prefer to prune mine back mid-season to keep them bushier. Asters also make a lovely choice if you wish to feed wild birds. If left standing through winter, finches and chickadees are fond of Aster seeds. Creating color interest in your flowerbed through fall can be made possible with the additions of Japanese Anemone, Helenium, Balloon Flowers, and Asters. All these flowering perennials are unique and easy to care for. They come in a variety of colors, so you will be sure to find one that compliments your garden design. With added benefits, such as attracting pollinators or feeding wild birds, this group of perennials are excellent for anyone looking to support wildlife going into our cold Minnesota winters. If you are looking for more information on what to plant in your flower bed, be sure to check out the U of M extension website or contact your local Master Gardeners. Japanese Anemone Sources: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/anemone-honorine-jobert/ Helenium Sources: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/helenium-helenium-autumnale/ Photo credits: University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2), gardenia.net (3,4)

< Back December - Enjoying the Winter Garden Dawn Struble As Minnesotans, we learn to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Read this article for thoughts about how to enjoy your garden in winter. Over the years I’ve often exclaimed, “I wish I lived in zone 7 or 8!” Then I wouldn’t have to say good-bye to my gardens as winter arrives. But over the same years, I’ve come to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Before the snow flies, make time to move any garden art or sculptures closer to your home’s windows. This will allow you to appreciate the light, shadows and snow accumulations on your art, as well as on standing vegetation, shrubs and tree branches during the snowy months. Now is also the time to make note of plants that may need to be moved, split or removed next spring. You will thank yourself in the spring for writing it down! Watching the snow for animal tracks will help you learn more about the variety and habits of wildlife in your area ( 12 weeks of winter: The scoop on scat | UMN Extension ). You can use the cold weather downtime to read some great gardening books ( Gift Idea: Good Books for Minnesota Gardeners (umn.edu) or Books that created conversation in 2021 | UMN Extension ). And nothing tastes better in the middle of winter than a warm muffin baked from the garden rhubarb you froze last June! ( Using your harvest | UMN Extension ). If you are really missing the dirt under your fingernails, try an indoor herb garden, or make a winter window box or front entry pot. Taking care of your garden tool maintenance is also a valuable task during frigid weather. ( Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension ). Get the family involved and combat the dark days by making beautiful winter luminaries. It’s a fun and rewarding project for everyone, and will brighten your yard and garden areas. As you take that winter vacation to warmer destinations, don’t forget about the reciprocal garden admission program for Minnesota Landscape Arboretum members. Reciprocal Admissions Program – American Horticultural Society (ahsgardening.org) . You’ll find the visit sparking your excitement for another season of northern gardening after the well deserved winter break. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Torange.biz (2)

< Back What is Compost? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer Have you seen signs around that say “Compost?” Maybe you’ve put bags of compost on your gardens already. Maybe you even have your own compost at home! What is compost? Read on with your curious child to find out what goes into this helpful mix and how we can help plants grow (and keep organic matter out of our landfills!) I think of compost as a really nutritious casserole or lasagna for plants. Did you know that plants need good nutrition, just like people? First, let’s talk about organic matter . Things that once grew as plants - grass clippings, fallen leaves, banana peels, even paper towels - can break down and become food for new plants when we add them back into the soil. Microbes are tiny living organisms that help break down this future compost. The best way for us to set this up is to layer “green” organic waste and “brown” organic waste (like we layer yummy ingredients between noodles in a lasagna!) So let’s start there: Examples of “green” organic matter: raw fruit and vegetable peels, egg shells, grass clippings, plant trimmings, tea bags, and coffee grounds Examples of “brown” organic matter: straw, twigs, shredded newspaper, paper towels, brown leaves, sawdust When the helpful bacteria, tiny microbes, worms and bugs start eating and mixing our green and brown layers, the layers start to break down and even make energy. The goal is for the pile to get warm enough to “cook” out the kinds of germs that get stinky or make us sick. It’s just like we cook some of our foods to make them safe and tasty for us to eat. People can help things along by turning over the mix - this helps it break down evenly and adds oxygen and moisture to encourage the process. If the weather gets really dry, spray down the pile with water now and again between rain showers. It can take some patience, but eventually you will have fresh compost ready to mix into your planting soil! Where does this happen? Sometimes community compost sites make BIG batches of compost after they collect organic waste from many places. This could be from compost bins near the trash and recycling cans like these - see the one that says “COMPOST?” Or, Dakota County (as well as other counties) has a program where residents can bring their food waste in special biodegradable bags to a public site like this one at the Holland Lake parking lot of Lebanon Hills Regional Park. See this website for more information on Dakota County’s Organics Drop Off program https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/Residential/Organics/Pages/organics-drop-off.aspx Some people make compost right at home! You can buy a compost bin made just for this purpose through many vendors online or through Dakota County https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ . Or you can make your own! Here are some helpful websites with instructions for making a home compost bin (with an adult!): https://thecompostadores.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/photographic-steps-to-build-a-bin.pdf https://www.treehugger.com/diy-compost-bins-you-can-build-one-day-video-4858394 You can even take a class with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum for a compost bin building demonstration here: https://www.arboretum.umn.edu/getdirtyactivities.aspx Here’s a 3-part system of compost at the Arboretum’s Children’s Garden: The older organic materials get moved “next door” to make room for new green and brown layers in the first section. If you haven’t checked out the Green Play Yard and learning garden next to the Marion Andrus Learning Center there yet, I truly recommend it - it’s fantastic! So kids, let’s review - what’s compost? Organic matter made from plants that helps plants grow! It adds nutrients and texture to the soil so the plants can get oxygen and water through their roots. Compost that’s ready for this job should not have a stinky or rotten smell. How can kids help to make compost? Help collect food waste like peels, coffee grounds, tea bags, greens and egg shells that won’t get eaten into a container until it is full and ready to take to your home or community compost site. Toddlers and older can carry a closed pail or small bag of organics and participate in the cycle of their food. Gather black and white newspapers, brown cardboard and paper towels (shredded to help them break down faster), sticks, and leaves for the brown layer at home. Use a large garden fork or shovel to stir up your compost pile now and again, or use the handle on some bins to turn the pile around. It’s not an exact science, so put those growing muscles to work mixing things up! Keep an eye out for helpful signs at parks and businesses that show you where to put compostable items and keep them out of the landfill. For a great factsheet about home composting, see this link from the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency https://www.pca.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/w-hhw1-21.pdf Book Time! Read on at Dakota County Libraries for more kid-friendly information about COMPOSTING: Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff, recommended for Ages 2-6 Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser, recommended for Ages 6 & up Photo Credit: Minnesota Pollution Control Agency Website (2), Sarah Heidtke (1,3,4,5,6) , Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff (7) & Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser (8)

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)

< Back Where Do Monarch Butterflies Go in the Winter? Julie Harris, Master Gardener Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Read about where Monarch butterflies live in the winter and why they choose that spot. Enjoy fun activities with the child in your life and butterflies. Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Well, many butterflies migrate or move from Minnesota to warmer places. In those warmer places, butterflies can also find their food sources – flowers. Since flowers in Minnesota don’t bloom in the winter, butterflies need to fly to areas of the world where they do. Some butterflies who already live in warm climates, will move to a different location because if they stay in one place, butterfly caterpillars will eat all of the available food. Butterflies usually start to migrate in September or October, depending on the weather. Monarch butterflies spend their winter in Mexico and Southern California. (Can you find these places on a map?) Monarch butterflies are the only butterflies to migrate so far away (2,500 miles) each year. In Mexico, the butterflies live in oyamel fir trees and return to the same trees every year. What is really strange, is that these butterflies are not the same butterflies who migrated to these Mexican trees in the prior year. These butterflies were born around mid-August and are the great-great-grandchildren of the butterflies who migrated in the earlier year. So, how do the younger monarchs know which trees to fly to? Scientists think that Monarch butterflies rely on instinct, the sun and magnetic compasses to know where to go. In the spring, the Monarch butterflies fly back to Minnesota because the type of food that they eat is not available to them in Mexico. One sad fact is that the winter homes of the Monarch butterfly are endangered because people are cutting down their favorite trees to build things like roads and houses. In Minnesota, we can help Monarch butterflies to survive by planting milkweed plants and not using poisonous sprays on our plants. References: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/do-butterflies-migrate/ https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/monarch-migration Activity Help your little one appreciate beautiful butterflies by choosing one or more of these activities: Plant a milkweed plant in your garden Go out into the garden and look for butterflies; take a picture and try to identify the type Draw a picture of the life cycle of a butterfly Cut out and decorate paper butterflies Make a butterfly mask Read Gotta Go! Gotta Go! by Sam Swope. This book tells the story of a caterpillar who knew she had to get to Mexico but didn’t know how she would get there. She crawled on her way until she began to grow tired, and hung from a branch, tucked into her chrysalis. When she woke up, she continued her journey until she finally came across a valley with millions of butterflies just like her. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gotta-Go-Picture-Book-Sunburst/dp/0374427860?&linkCode=ll1&tag=wear03e-20&linkId=c6d48ce27484e684775797fa673e9ca4&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Monarch Butterfly by Gail Gibbons. This is a non-fiction book that is clearly written, beautiful illustrated, and packed with scientific facts for kids. This book touches on the life cycle, habitat, migration, body parts, and behavior of monarch butterflies. Dakota County Library Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=monarch+butterfly+gail+gibbons&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 https://kidworldcitizen.org/books-videos-migration-monarch-butterflies/ Photo credits: pixabay.com (1), Sageandzoo.com Creative Commons (2)

< Back Buckthorn Removal Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn control is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, how can the home gardener attack this problem? The best time to find and remove buckthorn is in the fall and early spring. If you are lucky enough to have just a few small plants, you can pull the seedlings and check for new plants every year that may have taken root. For more established infestations, first remove all the berry producing buckthorn on your property as this limits the buckthorn’s ability to multiply. For larger infestations, you may want to remove the buckthorn in sections at a time. Buckthorn plants that are less than 2 inches in size can be removed by hand or by using an Uprooter or Root Talon. Plants greater than 2 inches in size should be cut at the soil surface using hand tools, chain saws, or brush cutters. Buckthorn that has been cut at the soil surface must be chemically treated or it will return with a vengeance. Chemical options include treating the stump immediately after cutting with Garlon 3A/Vastlan, Garlon 4, or other brush killers with triclopy or glyphosate (Roundup/Rodeo) to prevent re-sprouting. You can also try non-chemical treatment which includes covering the stump and flare with a tin can or black plastic. Use nails to affix the can or tie to affix the black plastic. If you’re treating buckthorn near water, use an herbicide labeled for aquatic use. For how and when to dispose of buckthorn, refer to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s “Guide to Removal and Disposal of Noxious Weeds in Minnesota.” Many compost sites will also accept buckthorn, but be sure to check with your county for suggestions on disposal. Controlled burning may be an option but will need to be done every 2-3 years. Some cities may haul away your cut buckthorn. Check with your city for their policies. Finally, buckthorn is a persistent uninvited plant. Even after removal, keep checking your garden for new sprouts and remove them immediately to avoid a larger infestation. There are many hardy and attractive native plants available to fill the areas where you have removed your buckthorn. For more information on buckthorn removal, click on the following links: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/buckthorn/control.html or Common buckthorn (umn.edu) Photo credits: Friends of the Park (1), Minnesota DNR (2), Deviant Art (3)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)

< Back Plants for Winter Interest Marjory Blare, Master Gardener In Minnesota, the winter color palette tends toward white, brown and gray. But we need not think of this landscape as drab or uninteresting. Fill your yard with interesting shrubs and sturdy perennials to enjoy a peacefully pleasing home landscape. Read this article for several plants that liven up a winter landscape. When beautiful white snow blankets everything, it's nice to have plants that provide a contrast to that blanket. Here are several plants that liven up a winter landscape: Red or Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) These extremely hardy native shrubs add bright red or yellow stems to your yard. They can grow 6-8 feet tall and the same in width. They can take full sun to part-shade. They tolerate wet conditions and are deer-resistant. The yellow twig dogwood is a natural variant of the red. To keep the stems bright, prune out the older stems to stimulate new growth. Other common names for this shrub include: Shoemack, Waxberry Cornel, Red-Dosier Cornel, Red Willow, Red Brush, Red Rood, Harts Rouges, Gutter Tree and Dogberry Tree. As a bonus the bright twigs can be cut to add a bright vertical element to winter pots! Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) This densely-needled conifer provides a medium green note to your yard. Various cultivars range from 2-10 feet tall and 2-15' wide. It is tolerant of many soil types, but doesn't like wet feet. It is salt and pollution tolerant, deer-resistant and requires full sun. You may want to prune some of the taller varieties, which involves cutting the new growth back by half. False Cypress 'Golden Mops” (Chamaecyparis) Golden Mops forms a slightly conical mound of scaly, yellow, thread-like leaves. They grow slowly to 3-5 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide. They need full-sun to part-shade, but look greener in shade. They are drought and salt tolerant and can take some browsing by deer and rabbits. They are not too picky about soil, but don't like wet feet. Dark Green Spreader Yew (Taxus x media) This shrub that is a darker green than the Mugo pine. This shrub will easily take light, full-shade. It thrives in all soils as long as they are well-drained. It is deer-resistant. Take note that all parts of it are poisonous. Its red berries are attractive to small children. It can grow up to 10 feet tall and will generally be wider than tall. It doesn't require pruning, but does respond well to it. American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) Here is a conifer with an upright columnar habit. The native plant can reach heights of 30', but there are many cultivars such as 'Hetz Midget', that are only 3-4 feet wide by 4-5 feet tall. In hard winters, deer will forage on arborvitae. Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar. There are many other plants that can provide interest: Joe Pye Weed seed heads, tall sedum, seed heads from flowers. Ornamental grasses that provide a creamy, tan color. Look for plants that have interesting shapes, such as Henry Lauder's Walking Stick, with its twisty branches. Then there are interesting barks such as the native small tree, Serviceberry with glossy bark or (taller) river birch with exfoliating bark. Winterberry, hollies, White Baneberry (another native) and some crab-apples all hang onto their fruit into the winter. Winter is a great time to plan for next year's winter interest. Research your plants and be sure to get a soil test before planting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Marjory Blare (2, 4, 5), WWW.flickr.com Mark Bolin (3)

< Back Tomatoes the Ubiquitous Summer Vegetable BeeJ Hansell It’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Minnesota this summer. But, how do you choose from the many, many brands of tomatoes that are out there. Read this article for very useful information about choosing the right variety of tomato to grow in your garden. It’s June, so likely you have already chosen and planted garden tomatoes. If you’re still debating, you’re at the right place. Let’s review of one of the most popular vegetables raised in home gardens. The tomato, s olanum lycopersicum, Lycopersicon lycopersicum is a member of the nightshade family of plants; most of the family are poisonous. Thank goodness for this tasty, safe to consume relative. World-wide there are 10,000 varieties of these delicious orbs. A small percentage perform very well in Minnesota. Our growing season is challenging given the potential for late frosts, and the wide range of temperatures (hot to hotter) over a short period. Tomatoes are almost any color of the rainbow. Sizes range from cherry, about the size of a thumb tip; to beefsteak, regularly at seven inches in diameter with some weighing nearly a pound or more. So many tomatoes, so little time! To help with choosing the optimal for your garden take a look at the results of 2022 tomato seeds trial of six varieties: Brandywine Marriage Tomatoes Below are some general considerations when choosing varietals. To Heirloom or not to Heirloom An Heirloom tomato carries the best characteristics of tomatoes and have been grown for decades. They have been grown without crossbreeding for at least 40-50 years or more. When you choose heirloom varieties you consistently get what you expect. Heirlooms are reportedly easy for the beginner gardener to grow. They are also often considered to be more flavorful. Hybrid, “normal” tomatoes are carefully bred (human intervention) to have particular characteristics. For example, hybrids have larger yields. They also may be bred to be more resistant to pests and disease. Determinate versus Indeterminate Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain point, then stop. They are bushy, compact, of shorter stature, and generally 2-4 feet tall. They still require some support, like tomato cages. They produce all of their tomatoes at once. The fruits develop on the ends of the branches. Determinate tomatoes are usually labeled as “bush,” “patio,” or “container” - perfect for smaller spaces. There are also dwarf types. Since all the tomatoes on the plant mature simultaneously, they tend to have a shorter growing season. In order to have tomatoes throughout the summer, one must either stagger start dates, or consider planting additional indeterminate tomatoes. Indeterminate plants grow and grow. They are the vine tomatoes most recognized and envisioned when people talk about growing tomatoes. They can grow to lengths of 10-12 feet, therefore, require vertical supports, and lots of them. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit throughout the season. The fruit grows all along the stems, ripening at different times. This results in a longer growing season and and greater yield than determinate varieties. Regardless of your choices, enjoy the sun-happy tomatoes until the Minnesota frost sweeps them away. Here are two recipes that are often overlooked. First, more than a movie, welcome: Fried Green Tomatoes! Second, the “Southern Tomato Sandwich.” NOTE, Duke’s Mayo is what makes it perfect. Ingredients 2 (½-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato ¼ tsp. kosher salt or ⅛ tsp. table salt ¼ tsp. freshly, coarsely ground black pepper 2 slices soft, white sandwich bread 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, or more!! Directions Arrange tomato slices on a paper towel, sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Let stand until tops of slices are beaded up with juices, 3 to 5 minutes. Spread one side of each bread slice with 1½ tablespoons mayonnaise. Arrange tomato slices on mayo side of one bread slice: top with other bread slice, mayo slice down. Enjoy the messy, juicy goodness immediately!! I leave you with this final thought in the form of Haiku: Beautiful and firm Sweet summer fruit soaks up sun Delicious to eat Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2)

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back How Trees Talk to One Another Karna Berg, Master Gardener Have you ever walked in the woods and thought there was someone there, someone talking? Well, if you have, you were right. It was the trees talking to one another. Oak trees are the perfect example. My back yard has a small, wooded area of mostly oak trees. I now feel them talking to each other. Or are they talking to me? Are they saying they need more water? Would like a sunny day? Just what are they saying? As we all know, our trees are under attack from pollution, drought, pests, and disease. And while trees cannot just move to a more hospitable spot, they can help one another deal with all the stresses on them. Scientists have discovered that trees, and specifically oaks, have developed a root system, or network, through which they communicate. That root system is populated by fungus that aids them in this process. Let’s say a pest is moving into the neighborhood. As we know, they move in slowly, often tracked by tree specialists providing warnings to the public on what to be on the lookout for. Well, the trees are tracking the pests as well. And as the pests land on their branches, they signal ahead through the network that their neighbor trees should be prepared. Oaks and other trees will then produce chemicals and enzymes that help to ward off the pests. It sounds impossible, right? But it is true. Some scientists now even believe that trees also communicate through their leaves. If this is as fascinating to you as it is to me, you can read more about it in some of the books I relied on here. They include: “The Life & Love of Trees,” Lewis Blackwell; “The Hidden Life of Trees: What they Feel, How they Communicate,” Peter Wohllenben; and “Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest,” Suzanne Simard. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1), seeing-nature.de (2)

< Back There Is Science Behind Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Believe it or not, the snow will melt soon and your thoughts will turn from shoveling to lawn care. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes, to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. The University of Minnesota turf specialists have for years studied various methods of lawn care in order to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of human, water, and fertilizer resources needed. As it turns out, the best time to plant new grass or reseed your lawn is actually in early Fall not Spring. Dethatching and aerating your lawn are also best left for Fall. Spring is the second best time to plant new grass or re-seed your lawn. The U of MN Extension has developed an extremely handy lawn care calendar to make it easier to follow the science behind lawn care. Following this calendar will produce better results with less effort and hopefully, fewer chemical applications. The trick with Spring is practicing patience as you see your lawn emerge from the snow. For example, many people add fertilizer too early in the Spring. This will just encourage the grass to grow when it’s dormant or when growing should be slow. One of the most common Spring problems is grey snow mold. This has the appearance of whitish dead patches. The blades of grass are usually matted down with a fungal fuzz. This disease thrives on extra fertilizer almost as much as the snow so adding fertilizer will make it worse. Instead, to treat snow mold, rake the matted grass in order to allow for additional air flow. It will take time for the fungus to die and the grass to grow back, but generally, a fungicide is not needed. Also note that once the weather has turned warm, don’t spray for weed control. It’s too late and will increase the chance of damaging your lawn. Climate change is having an impact on our environment and one way to help your lawn is to consider adding some fescue grasses to your lawn mix during Fall re-seeding. Kentucky bluegrass is gorgeous but also needs a lot of water compared to fine fescue, for example. Another option is to consider adding a raingarden in order to retain the water runoff in your yard versus the storm sewers. Improved technologies have been developed such as “smart” irrigation controllers, soil moisture sensors and more efficient sprinklers to more effectively manage water use. If you do have a sprinkler system, please check it every Spring by running through a short cycle to make sure the sprinkler heads are in good working condition and not wasting water. The bottom-line is there is science behind lawn care and following a lawn care calendar and best practices can achieve a better result with fewer resources needed. Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar https://extension.umn.edu/news/practice-patience-spring-lawn-care https://turf.umn.edu/help-lawn-water-conservation Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)