< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)

< Back I Forgot to Plant My Garlic in October! Planting Garlic in March Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Are you a garlic lover? Yes, you can buy it at the grocery store but garlic grown in your own garden is so good. Garlic is normally grown in late fall BUT not to worry, if you act quickly, you can plant garlic in March and harvest it in July. Read this article to learn more about planting garlic in the spring or the fall. Didn’t get around to planting garlic this past fall? You can still get a garlic harvest this summer but you have to be quick and get that garlic in the ground as early as possible in March. As soon as the ground is thawed, you can plant those garlic cloves. Usually, garlic is planted in the fall in mid-to-late October, after the first killing frost. It is covered with straw or leaves and in the spring, emerges as one of the first green plants. Luckily, Minnesota springs are cool, so planting garlic in March still allows the garlic to go through the cold period it needs, although it is much shorter. Your garlic bulbs may be a little smaller, but you will still be able to harvest your own garlic. And there is nothing like eating fresh garlic from your own garden! You should not plant the garlic bulbs from the grocery store as those are usually from California and do not grow well in Minnesota. You can look at seed catalogs or nurseries for garlic to plant and some may still have some seed garlic. There are two types of garlic; hardneck and softneck. Types of hardneck that grow well in Minnesota include Rocamble, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain. Softneck varieties that do well in Minnesota are Artichoke and Silverskin. They produce bulbs with more cloves and are the type of garlic you can braid. Garlic is very easy to plant. To plant, take a bulb of seed garlic and break it into the individual cloves. Dig a small hole and place the clove pointed side up and cover with soil. You do not have to remove the papery skin that covers it. You can plant garlic close together, which allows you to plant a large crop in a small space. Plant in double rows that are six inches apart and plant the double rows 30 inches apart. You will want to plant in well-drained soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. You will want to cover with three to four inches of straw or leaf mulch to add an insulation layer. You do not have to worry about uncovering them as the garlic will push through organic cover. Controlling weeds is important as weeds can easily overwhelm the young garlic plants. Leaving the insulating straw or leaves that you used to cover them when you planted can help suppress weeds and keep in moisture. Water weekly to a depth of one inch. Insects that can affect garlic include onion maggots, bulb mites, and aster leafhoppers. The aster leafhoppers can cause the disease aster yellow. Make sure to practice a four-year rotation to help reduce insect and disease problems and only plant firm, healthy cloves purchased from reliable sources. Scapes are a bonus that grow at the end of the garlic stalk in early June. The hardneck garlics generally produce the scapes; rarely will the softnecks produce them. The scapes are the curved part of the stem at the top of the garlic stock. You can cut them when the green stalk starts curling. Cook them by sauteing them in oil, making pesto, or adding to dishes such as quiche. You can find recipes for scapes on the internet. There are mixed opinions on cutting the garlic scapes, however, as some people believe it affects the size of the garlic bulb. If you choose to leave the scape, a small garlic bulb grows on the end that will have small white and purple flowers. These can be harvested to use as garlic seeds for a future growing season. Garlic is harvested in late June to late July when the lower leaves begin to brown and about half the upper leaves are still green. You can also harvest a bulb and cut it in half to see if the cloves fill out the skins. If you are planting your garlic in March, you will likely be harvesting more toward end of July. Once you have dug up your garlic bulbs, leave about six inches to a foot of stem and knock off any soil. You then will need to allow the bulbs to cure for three to four weeks in a warm, dry, and airy place. You can place them over a screen or hang them so air flows around them. Once cured, cut the stems off and any remaining roots. You will want to store the bulbs in a cool, dry location. Garlic will keep for several months. You can eat the garlic as soon as it has cured. You can also save some to plant in the Fall after the first killing frost. For more information: Growing Garlic, UMN Extension Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Therapeutic Landscapes for Stress Relief Feeling stressed? Has the Covid culture left you feeling socially isolated? Learn about the healing power of gardens and gardening in this article. Cathy Johnson, Master Gardener The notion that gardens are healing places is not new. It is well supported in research that outside settings improve mental and physical health . . . improved focus, improved creativity, reduced depression and stress, shortened hospital stays and increased test scores in classrooms where plants are growing. One only has to look at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Nature Heals Toolkit to see the profound connection between nature and healing. After all, folks are Covid weary beyond belief and wondering - is there some end in sight for the recurring surges and resulting restrictive lifestyle which seems to be the new norm? Peter Petrow of the Washington Post wrote an article, ‘Embracing Healing Places,’ which led me to thinking about how therapeutic landscapes might just be even more healing now than ever. After all, humans are “biophilic” - innately drawn to life - because we are genetically connected to plants and nature. Being in nature makes our brains secure, more connected to what our bodies are experiencing. But the Covid pandemic resulted in more of us working indoors, some seldom having to leave our places of residence. We have become used to using our computers to shop and having items delivered, reducing the need to go outside. Social isolation can only increase feelings of disconnect, and a longing for things to “get back to normal.” Geraldine Perriam, a professor at the University of Glasgow, states that humans, while on a quest for healing, seek not just a cure, but alleviation and improvement in life style. The question for individuals then becomes, ‘Where do you need to go to for healing? What places make you feel better. The answer will be different for everyone, but a few common threads emerge from research, which are helpful to us all. Water is the most common element listed in descriptions of healing places. The colors of blue and green are associated with calm, positive energy and better health outcomes. The obvious connection between the life-giving properties plants and water, comes to mind. On a quest for a feeling of well-being, columnist Pagan Kennedy suggests just going someplace where you can work the soil with your hands. Why? M. Vaccae , a soil bacterium, acts like an anti-depressant once it enters the human body. David Conradson, professor at the University of Canterbury New Zealand, suggests that folks go wherever they feel connected to nature. Are your senses being stimulated . . . all five of them? Sensory stimulation is essential to achieving balance and a sense of ease. In these Covid weary times, humans want to feel “put together again.” Gardening is an authentic experience which provides all of the elements which humans seek in that quest for alleviation, a path toward healing. In imagining your “therapeutic landscape,” remember to think about where you need to go to feel better and be intentional about recognizing those feelings. Look at a map and find green or blue spaces, walk in your yard, or a neighborhood park. Go out of your way to seek your healing place. As for me, I think I’m headed for a garden with some green and blue, some trickling water, some fragrances, warmth, humidity, and just a place to unwind. Maybe I’ll see you there. Hygge on! References: Nature Heals Community Engagement Toolkit, University of Minnesota Extension Larson, Jeanne and Mike Maddox. Center for Spirituality and healing University of Minnesota. Presentation in June of 2019 at State Master Gardener’s Meeting. “Healing Aspects of Gardening” Petrow, Steven. Washington Post, ‘Embracing ‘healing places,’ January 4, 2022. Many references cited. Photo Credit: Free from Pixababy (1,2) & University of Minnesota Extension (3)

Request a Speaker Master Gardeners are available to speak to garden clubs, at workplace seminars or other groups about a wide variety of garden-related topics. We have access to the latest university based research, attend educational seminars throughout the year and have personal interest in many aspects of gardening. Here is a list of just some of the topics we are able to present to your group. Don’t see what you are looking for? Contact our Speakers Bureau and we can help. ​ Please remember that our Speaker Bureau program is run by volunteers and we therefore ask for your patience. Please allow 3-5 business days for a reply. Ideally, we ask that you request speakers a minimum of 4-6 weeks before your event although more urgent requests will be considered and fulfilled whenever possible. We appreciate your understanding. Popular Topics Annuals Bee friendly plants Beekeeping Blueberries Container gardening Composting Herbs Houseplants Invasive plants and pests Orchids Putting your gardens to bed Shade gardening Spring bulbs Square foot gardening Seeding starting Vegetables And more!! ​ Request a Speaker First Name Last Name Email Write a message. Please include the location for the presentation. Submit Your request has been sent.

< Back Companion Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener It’s April and we are starting or continuing to plan our gardens for the new season. Most of us consider the amount of sunlight we need, flower size and color and, probably, our favorite plants. But many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other - “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Read this article to learn more about why and how to use companion planting in your garden. As plans are being prepared for our gardens, most of us think about the layout, considering each plant type separately. The planning generally looks at the amount of space needed and the amount of sunlight required by the plant as decisions are made about where to position plants. However, many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other, a concept referred to as “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Companion planting is not a new concept. It is a tool used in organic gardening and has been used historically by indigenous people. Research has identified varying results regarding the benefits of specific companion plantings. There is only anecdotal evidence of the benefits of overall companion planting. But there are numerous reputable articles on how to incorporate the concept into our gardens. In this article I will identify six potential benefits of companion gardening, using a relatively broad definition of companion gardening. 1. Repelling Pests Consider planting plants that repel pests next to plants that the pests target. According to an article in the University of Arizona Agriculture and Life Sciences Cooperative Extension site: One of the most accepted wisdoms of companion planting is the use of repellant plants to keep bothersome insects away from their favorite vegetable plants. Insects locate their favorite plants through smell and many repellant plants work by masking the scent of their neighbor plants. That is why strong-smelling plants such as basil, onions, garlic, and marigolds are good reliant plants. [1] 2. Attracting Beneficial Insects Conversely, companion planting might be used to attract beneficial insects. The best example of this is the suggestion that a gardener plant flowers that will attract pollinators next to vegetable that will benefit from these insects. Companion planting can also be used to attract insects that will feed on destructive insects. For example one might grow plants, such as carrots, to attract lady bugs that will feed on aphids that might attack your plants. 3. Growing Sacrificial Plants A sacrificial crop is a plant that you add to your garden to attract pests away from the main crop you are growing. The reasoning is that garden pests have preferences for what they like to live on or eat. By planting rows of sacrificial plants near your preferred vegetables, the pests will be attracted to these plants and leave your “preferred plants” alone. 4. Enhancing the Taste of Edible Plants Many people believe that planting herbs such as basil, dill, oregano or marjoram next to tomatoes and peppers may enhance the sweetness of these vegetables . . . and they also add beauty to your garden. 5. Supporting the Growing Needs of Surrounding Plants The growing characteristics of one plant can be used to benefit surrounding plants. For example, plants that grow tall or are supported by trellises can provide shade to plants that prefer limited sunlight. Vining plants and plants with large leaves that cover the ground can reduce weed growth and help retain soil moisture. 6. Promoting Maximum Use of Garden Space In this example of companion planting, you’re considering how to enhance the production of your garden as a whole. By intercropping plants in spaces left when one crop is done producing you can increase the production from a limited space. Radishes mature quickly and do well in cooler weather so they can be planted in the spring. When they are harvested, plants that prefer warmer weather can be planted. And when those plants are done producing, another crop of radishes can be planted in late summer. This is a link to a chart developed by Todd Weinmann of North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension that provides an extensive list of plants that you might consider growing near each other and plants that have the potential to negatively impact the growth of certain plants and therefore should not be planted in close proximity. [1] The Best of Enemies: A Brief Guide to Companion Planting - Part 2, https://cals.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/best-enemies-brief-guide-companion-planting-part-2 Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Linda Stein (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Growing Daffodils Sometimes referred to as narcissus, daffodils nodding yellow, white, or variegated heads, are true harbingers of spring. Daffodils are a colorful addition to your garden with few basic steps. Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener How do daffodils grow? Daffodils are a spring-flowering plant that grows from a bulb planted in the fall. In spring the bulbs send up leaves that form buds, each of which develops into a flower or two depending on the variety. The outside of the flower is known as the perianth. This can be a different color than the inside trumpet or corona. Beneath the ground the bulb absorbs nutrients manufactured by the leaves after flowering, which can go on for 7 weeks or longer. The leaves fade, drop to the ground, and the plant goes dormant. Cut the leaves off only after they have fallen to the ground and are brown. Where can daffodils be planted for success? Daffodils do best in full sun, although they can tolerate some shade. If planting under a tree, consider removing lower branches to allow for light. Daffodils require well-drained soil. Rocks or clay soil should be removed and replaced with a mix of quality soil, which should be 1 part peat moss and 2 parts soil. Dig up an area to the depth of 12 inches. Using a shovel loosen soil at the bottom of the trench or hole. Mix new soil into the bottom to create a bed of loose soil for the bulb roots to form. Fill the opening to 8 inches and arrange the bulbs 3-4 inches apart with the wide end of the bulb down and gently press into the soil. Gently cover with soil and water. A 10-10-10 commercial fertilizer or organic fertilizer such as bone meal, blood meal or cow manure can be added. Where can I buy daffodil bulbs? Garden centers, online retailers, and mail order garden catalogs are the usual sources. Bulbs that have a soft base, dark brown or black coloring should not be purchased. Look at the mail order bulbs carefully and return any that are bad. Plant the bulbs as soon as you purchase them or receive them in the mail. Bulbs are alive so heat and humidity can cause damage. Reputable dealers will have the bulbs in a cool well- ventilated area. Mail order catalogs will ship during your areas best planting period, which is mid August thru September. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks to from roots so early October is the latest time to plant. How do I care for daffodils? Water newly planted bulbs frequently during the fall. Gardeners frequently forget to water, which is needed for root development. If spring rains are not adequate, begin watering. Cut back on watering as the foliage fades. Buds begin developing on the bulbs; so begin watering in late summer and continue through the fall. Mulch prevents weeds from growing around the bulbs but if the bulbs are naturalized, mulch is not practical. Fertilize in the spring before new growth appears. Avoid touching new growth with fertilizer and water immediately after the application to wash the fertilizer down to the roots. Daffodils do not need staking but deadheading will result in a more attractive bed. Daffodils are generally insect and disease free. Daffodils make a colorful early spring bouquet. Some are sweet scented. Harvest the flowers just as the bud begins to open and place immediately in water. Do not mix daffodils with other flowers since daffodils release a slime that is toxic. For long lasting bouquets add 5 drops of bleach to the water. With a minimum of garden preparation and plant maintenance, daffodils will reward the gardener with colorful spring joy.

< Back Investigating Insects in the Garden Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Calling all Family Insect Investigators! Along with plants and people enjoying the summer, many insects are traveling around in our yards and parks, too. Gather your family and friends in July to investigate insects in the Minnesota outdoors. Learn how to identify insects from other types of bugs, view some common Minnesota insects and how to do your own investigations of these creatures. Insects are bugs but not all bugs are insects There are many types of bugs in the world, like insects or spiders. Scientists that study bugs, called entomologists , group bugs into different categories. One category is insects . When you are looking around to find insects, use this insect checklist to determine if it is an insect or not: Three basic regions of the insect body- A. Head - (front of body) includes an antenna, eyes and mouth parts; B. Thorax - (middle of body) has three pairs of walking legs; C. Abdomen - (back of body) contains a heart, reproductive organs and digestive system. 2. Legs - depending on the insect, the legs are shaped to help carry out their day to day activities, including swimming or holding prey. 3. A pair of compound eyes - their eyes can see multiple images that appear like many dots and can judge distance and movement with ease. The special eyes allow the insects to catch their prey to eat. 4. Antennae - The body segment located on the head helps the insects smell and taste, and, sometimes, determine air currents. Some insects have wings, while some do not. For more details, see: https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html Insects found in Minnesota Our Minnesota yards and parks contain many different insects. Many are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so more plants can grow. Pollinators are important because we rely on the earth’s plants to give humans and earth’s creatures food to live. Here are some insects you can find in Minnesota: Bumble bees These very hairy creatures are usually 3/8 - 3/4 inch long with black and yellow or orange striped bodies. Bumble bees pollinate our plants. Nests can be found in the ground or little spaces of a garden, like in a retaining wall. 2. Honey bees are about ½” long, with a golden brown color, a fuzzy body and wings. They are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so they can grow. 3. Ladybugs More than 50 species of native lady bugs reside in Minnesota. They have many names, but are all the same insect: ladybugs, lady beetles or ladybird beetles. When full grown, most ladybugs have domed, hard, round to oval bodies, usually with a red color with black spots, but some with black, yellow, pink, and orange shells. Gardens benefit from ladybugs because they are pollinators as well as eaters of some insects that harm plants. 4. Butterflies Minnesota hosts many types of butterflies for their short life of about 4-6 weeks during mid-Summer (See list of Minnesota butterflies at: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ ). The orange and black monarchs hold the title of “Minnesota State Butterfly”. As these beautiful insects fly from plant to plant, they pollinate our plants, too. 5. Ants A common ant in Minnesota’s outdoors is a field ant . In July through September, look for the black, brown or red creature measuring 1/8 to 1/4 inch long in exposed dirt areas, making dirt mounds up to 10 inches across. They can also nest under objects, such as wood, stones, and patio blocks. The ants benefit our gardens because they eat live and dead insects. Investigate Want to be an Insect Investigator this summer?! Using the information in this article, head outside to your yard or local park to do one or all of these fun, family activities : Scavenger Hunt: Look high and low in your yard or local park to see if you can find the following common insects described in this article: bumble bees, honey bees, ladybugs, butterflies and ants. Extra Challenge Scavenger Hunt- Gather family and friends along with some paper, pencils and a timer. Set the timer for 10 minutes (or whatever time limit you wish). See who can find and write down the most of the listed insects (can find repeats) before your timer goes off. The winner can be declared the “Insect Champion of the Day.” Try again later in the season to see if everyone finds more, less or about the same amount of insects compared to the first challenge. Insect Hotel- You can make a “hotel” for insects to live in and for you to watch them live in your garden. Using a clear, clean container, with at least one opening, such as a recycled plastic bottle, carefully remove the top with the help of a grown up. Gather outside leaves, flowers, sticks and other natural items and put them inside the container. Now you have an “insect hotel”! Place the filled container in a location in your yard where you can observe any insects that come to live in your “insect hotel”. Use your investigative skills to determine if you found an insect or if it is a little creature from another bug category. Keep a journal or take pictures of all the insects you see. To continue more investigation, find out more through these programs in Minnesota: READ I Love Bugs! Philemon Sturges A book for younger learners with simple, yet useful descriptions of common bugs. Available at: Dakota County Library, ISBN: 9780060561680, 978006056169, or on Amazon Bugs!Bugs!Bugs! Bob Barber Colorful book for younger children describing common bugs in our yards and containing a useful chart to assist with identification. Available at: Dakota County Library, Digital Format or Amazon References : https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html https://extension.umn.edu/wildlife/wild-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/beneficial-insects/lady-beetles https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-butterfly-monarch/ https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/insects-infest-homes/ants#odorous-house-ant-42365 https://extension.umn.edu/projects-and-more/4-h-entomology-project Photo Credit: Mark Gadek (1,2,4,5) & University of Minnesota Extension (3,6) & Philemon Sturges (7,8)

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< Back Poinsettias – A Home in Mexico and Dr. Poinsett Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener The Poinsettia is a weed in its native Mexico. It is called lobster plant or Mexican Flame Leaf and has become an essential part of North America’s Christmas décor. The poinsettia that adorns mantles, coffee tables, and bookcases across North America is a descendant of a 6-foot shrub from which growers in Scandinavia and California developed the scaled-down varieties that bloom indoors. All poinsettias are winter-flowering shrubs that are noted for the bright red bracts or leaves. Modern plants have bracts that measure 12-15 inches with green leaves. The real flowers are the insignificant, greenish-yellow center clusters. Today plants can be purchased in many colors from white, peppermint (red & white,) pink and others. Keep a Poinsettia at normal room temperature (60-80 degrees) in a bright filtered location such as opposite light filtering blinds. Water only when the foliage droops slightly: the potting soil should then be totally saturated. No fertilization is necessary. Most individuals discard the plant soon after the holidays but with care you can have bright red bracts until April. Some enthusiasts will attempt to follow the strict schedule of taking cuttings or allow the cut back stump to develop new growth. Commercial producers follow a strict routine that is difficult for the home grower to mimic. Poinsettias are short-day plants; the flower and bract formation is prompted by an eight-week period of 14 hours total uninterrupted darkness and 10 hours of light daily. Plants are treated with a dwarfing chemical that reduces stem length, which results in the Poinsettia plant we know today. Poinsettias are readily available so this procedure is not needed to enjoy this beautiful plant. The Legend of the Poinsettia by Tomie dePaola tells the story of a young Mexican girl who had nothing for the manger scene on Christmas Eve. She picked tall green weeds to place around the stable and as the congregation prayed bright red star flowers burst open on the weed tips, casting a warm glow around the manger scene. The people named the plant la Flor de Nochebuena or Flower of the Holy Night. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to Mexico from 1825-1830, brought the shrub to the United States in 1830 because the bright red leaves, which he thought to be the flower, fascinated him. He took cuttings from shrubs growing near his Mexican residence to his home in South Carolina. The plant was named for Dr. Poinsett as the Poinsettia. Nothing says Merry Christmas like a bright red Poinsettia. Remember to thank Dr. Poinsett for this cheerful holiday plant! For more details on caring for poinsettia, visit this UMN Extension link. Additional sources: Tomie dePaola. The Legend of the Poinsettia. G.P. Putmans & Sons, 1994. Huxley Anthony, Editor. Success with House Plants, Readers Digest,1979.

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! By Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)

< Back Cool Season Vegetables for Spring Planting Marjory Blare, Master Gardener There are a number of “cool season” vegetables that can be planted outdoors in early spring. Get a head-start on your planting by starting your seeds indoors and planting them out when the temperature is right. Cool season vegetables can be planted out much earlier than, for example, tomatoes or peppers. You can seed indoors as much as six to eight weeks before the last frost date! Read this article for valuable information about seeding and planting “cool season” vegetables. Cool Season Vegetable Wisdom Here are some tips for growing “cool season vegetables:” The best way to get an early harvest is to prepare your garden in the fall. But if you didn’t, you can make up for it by first cleaning up any debris and then warming the soil with black plastic. If you want to get out in the garden ASAP, row covers and low tunnels can help to create a warmer growing environment for your plants. The last frost for Dakota county is around May 2nd. The northern half of Dakota county is zone 5a and the southern is 4b, make sure your seeds are rated for these zones. Specific crops vary, but the ideal temperatures for cool-season vegetables are in the 50°- 60° range for the first month of growth. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature. Use the right set-up to start seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#types-of-grow-lights-2651610 and visit the Dakota County Master Gardeners YouTube channel for videos on seed starting. Starting spring crops under lights can provide a few weeks of optimal growing temperatures. The transplants will be able to photosynthesize better because of a greater leaf area. Your plants will usually mature more before temperatures get too hot. Older plants are better able to withstand feeding damage from early spring insect pests like flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Cool season vegetables such as Arugula, Chinese cabbage, Bok choy, Peas, and Parsnips can be direct-seeded as soon as the soil is workable. “Omero” cabbage Chinese Cabbage, Bok Choy, Spinach and Swiss chard can be started under lights or direct-seeded. Gurney’s ‘Goliath’ Spinach Cauliflower is best planted mid-summer for a fall crop. Harden-off your seedlings before planting them out: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860 There are many edible, cold-tolerant flowers, and herbs, that can be started under lights. Take a look at the chart below for some great ideas. Vegetable Days to Harvest Start seeds Transplant Varieties Broccoli 85-100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Green Magic, ‘Super Dome’, ‘Jade Cross’ Brussels Sprouts < 100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Gustus’, ‘Hestia’, Cabbage 78 22-Feb - 4-April 4-April - 2-May ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Tendersweet’, ‘Omero’ Collards 60-80 8-Feb - 7-Mar 4- April ‘Tiger’, ‘Ole Timey Blue’, ‘Cascade Glaze’ Green Onions 8-10 weeks 25-Jan - 8-Feb 4-April ‘Feast’, ‘Deep Purple’, ‘White Spear’ Kale 25-65 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Rainbow Lacinato’, ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Black Magic’ ‘Toscano’ Kohlrabi 45-60 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Kolibri’, ‘Kossak’, ‘Purple Vienna’ Leeks 80-145 8-Feb - 22 Feb 18-April ‘Tivi’, ‘Electra’, ‘Titian’ ‘Varna’ Lettuce 30-70 29-Feb - 14-Mar 4-April - 11-April ‘Esmerelda’, ‘Little Gem’ ‘Red Salad Bowl’, *Find more information on dates at: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html For Master Gardener-recommended varieties of many vegetables and flowers, here is the link to 42 years of University of Minnesota Extension seeds trials: Tivi Leeks Now is the right time to plan for starting seeds indoors! Happy gardening! Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Marjory Blare, Photo 2 – Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension, Photos 3 – 5 – Marjory Blare

< Back The Magic of Snow Connie Kotke Nothing beats the beauty of a snow-covered garden. Falling or drifting snow creates interesting sculptures on our benches, arbors, and paths. Evergreens look brighter, and trees with ornamental bark are showing off against a white background. Crowns of sparkling white form on sedum, ornamental grasses, and other perennials we left standing in the garden. Snow is useful to gardeners in other ways, too. Learn more! Making the Most of a Snowy Winter When everything is covered in snow, the landscape is peaceful and still. The snow sparkles, and everything seems clean and pure. Yes, it’s cold! But aside from moving to a warmer climate, we can take advantage of the many benefits snow delivers to Minnesota gardeners. Most importantly, snow cover insulates your valuable plants from wind and sub-zero temperatures. Most winter damage to plants occurs when we don’t have sufficient snow cover. This is especially important for roots, which do not become dormant in the winter as quickly as stems, branches and buds. A good snow cover moderates the temperature of the soil. That’s good, because the roots of most trees and shrubs in Minnesota die at temperatures below 10 degrees. If you planted some new trees, shrubs and perennials this fall, you’ll want to wish for a deeper snow cover to protect those newly-formed roots. Snow also protects plants from the freeze/thaw cycles that heave them out of the ground. This happens because of the way snowflakes are shaped. There are small spaces in each one that are filled with air. As they pile up, the result is low heat conductivity so the daily temperature permeation into the snow is reduced and the plants are protected from really cold temperatures. Snow helps preserve moisture in the soil during winter and provides water to the soil as it melts in the spring. This slowly waters the emerging perennials. Here are some other ways to use the snow: Insulate your garden planters. If you overwinter any potted plants outdoors, shovel or blow snow onto the planters to protect the roots. Snow acts as a natural barrier to shield the ground beneath it from the really cold wind gusts. When it warms up, the snow will melt and act like a slow-release drip irrigation system. Snow insulates your garden planters and moistens the soil as it warms up. Collect snow in rain barrels. As it melts, use it to water spring ephemerals, moisten compost, and incorporate leaf mulch into the soil. It’s free, it’s clean (no chlorine or other chemicals added to our city water), and delivered free to your door. Some people call snow “the poor man’s fertilizer.” As it falls through the atmosphere, nitrogen and sulfur attach to the flakes. When the snow melts, these elements are released into the soil and absorbed by plants. Nitrogen is essential to plant growth. With everything covered in snow, your birdfeeders will lure more birds and other critters closer to your home. It’s easier to see them, too, with a heavy blanket of white in the background. For more information, check out this University of Minnesota resource: Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter - Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1), Mike Darcy, Black Gold (2)